Which heads of garlic to leave for planting. Planting garlic - growing, care, cleaning, storage Which garlic to choose for planting

22.05.2019

If you haven't planted garlic this fall yet, now is the time to do so. Moreover, garlic can be planted before winter, both winter and spring - it will grow larger and ripen earlier than planted in spring. Galina Kizima shares the secrets of planting garlic.

Garlic is winter, which is planted before winter, and it is spring, which is planted in spring. The difference between winter garlic and spring garlic lies in the fact that winter garlic has a future flower arrow in the tooth, which is clearly visible on the cross section of the tooth in the form of a darker circle. Spring garlic does not shoot. It reproduces only by teeth.

Outwardly, they are easy to distinguish: spring has two rows of small teeth, and winter - one row, usually of 4-6 large teeth. Winter garlic, respectively, gives a flower arrow in the middle of summer, but the seeds ripen only in the southern regions. But at the end of the arrow at the end of July, small onion bulbs are formed, which are used to propagate garlic along with cloves.

Spring garlic is propagated only with cloves, since it does not produce seeds or bulbs. Spring garlic has one advantage over winter garlic: it is well stored in the apartment in winter.

Both spring and winter garlic do well only in fertile soil, moisture and breathable, with an alkaline pH above 7. In addition, they need a sunny location, although they can tolerate a little shading.

Do not try to grow garlic on clay soils, soils poor in organic matter, as well as on acidic soils, in the shade, on too wet lands.

Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, it is not afraid of frost, it sprouts early in the spring, because after planting the root system of garlic has time to grow well in the fall.

Winter garlic is propagated vegetatively, planted in open ground with cloves in the fall. As a rule, gardeners use their planting material, but sometimes they buy garlic for planting in stores or from individuals and, seduced by the beautiful appearance of the heads of garlic, they buy southern garlic. After planting, it sprouts almost immediately, winters poorly and often rots in the soil during winter thaws or during prolonged autumn rainy weather. In my experience, southern and imported varieties of garlic are unsuitable for growing in the Northwest region.

If the cloves are without traces of disease, they can be planted immediately. If there is any doubt about diseases, then soak the cloves before planting for half an hour in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" to prevent rot diseases.

Garlic in the North-West region is planted simultaneously with tulips, in late September - early October to a depth of about 8 cm. If planted too late (late October in the North-West region), the root system does not have time to grow, and garlic, with early frosts, from the ground sticks out. But even in this case, if in the spring you again deepen it into the soil by about 5 cm, it will yield a crop, but somewhat later than usual.

I have been planting garlic a little differently for many years. I prepare the bed around the middle of August, two weeks before planting. I bring in compost (bucket) or peat mixed with sand and ash (a bucket of peat, a third of a bucket of sand, a liter can of ash) for each meter of plantings. I lightly dig a Fokin flat cutter to a depth of no more than 7-8 cm. On the eve of planting, I water it well with Fitosporin solution to disinfect the soil. I don't use potassium permanganate.

Before planting, which I spend on August 25-27, I make holes 12-15 cm deep with a special peg. If you want to get larger teeth, mark up 15x15 cm and even 20x20 cm. But I find that large teeth are inconvenient when used and I prefer to grow garlic, in which the teeth are medium in size, so I mark up according to the 10x pattern 10 cm

I pour a tablespoon of coarse river sand into each hole, lower one large granule of AVA fertilizer, then lower a large clove of garlic and again pour a tablespoon of sand into the hole. After that, I close up the plantings with soil. The sand introduced into the wells creates a microdrainage around the tooth, and then around the growing head of garlic, therefore, it saves it from waterlogging.

From such a great depth, garlic does not sprout in autumn (with the exception of imported or southern varieties). But even if it rises, do not worry, it will winter well. Garlic, planted in August, has time to build up a good root system during the long autumn and emerges early in the spring. Plants stand as a powerful wall, strong, green and easily cope with any weather conditions. They do not need any feeding all season. Such garlic ripens a month earlier than the one that was planted in September-October.

Growing winter garlic

When a flower arrow appears on garlic planted in any way, it should immediately be broken out. No twisting and tying of the tops does not get rid of the arrow, but it harms the plant, because the leaves stop working normally. In addition, an infection enters the resulting tissue damage and ruptures, which can lead to garlic disease.

One or two of the strongest plants should be left with an arrow in order for the bulbs to grow. As soon as the case on the flower arrow bursts, the plant must be removed from the ground along with the head, shake off the soil from the roots and hang it upside down to dry. Then the bulbs can be removed. They will be required to improve their planting material.

Growing garlic from bulbs

Over time, garlic degenerates and needs to be renewed. To do this, in the summer you can leave a few large arrows of garlic, sow seeds from ripe bulbs in the fall into the ground. On the next year heads will grow into one clove. We plant them before winter, and in the summer we get a full harvest.

After lower leaves the garlic turned yellow, it can be dug up, better with a pitchfork, not a shovel. The heads should be shaken off the soil and, having tied it in loose bundles, hung in the attic or in the attic to dry. When the nutrients from the leaves are completely transferred to the head, the leaves will dry out.

If at cleaning garlic, if you find mold or rot on it, or something else suspicious, then clean the heads of excess scales. Immediately cut off the tops and roots, dip the heads for half an hour in the Fitosporin solution and only then dry them, laying them out in a single layer in the attic.

You can not dry onions, garlic or royal hazel grouse along with tulips, because due to the pungent smell of the bulbs, the tulips will not form a flower bud, and they will not bloom next year.

How to store garlic at home

Plants need to cut the roots, remove excess husks, weave a braid and hang it in the kitchen for winter storage. You can cut off the dried tops, leave stumps 2-3 cm high, hold the bottom of each head over a candle flame to lightly set it on fire. This will protect the head from premature moisture loss. Then spread the dried garlic in three-liter jars, tie a hole with a cloth and put it on the windowsills to be stored. Do not store garlic in the refrigerator - it usually spoils faster.

Sometimes it is recommended to store garlic disassembled into individual cloves in jars, sprinkling it with salt. This method does not give anything but an extra waste of salt, because the salt takes all the moisture from the teeth, and they quickly dry out and wrinkle.

Growing spring garlic

Planting spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ripe for planting. Should not be planted in waterlogged soil - cloves can rot in wet and cold soil. So there is no need to hurry, although garlic is cold-resistant, and it can be planted in the North-West as early as the end of April.

Care for spring garlic is the same as for winter garlic. Pests and diseases they have in common with onions.

Dig up spring garlic later than winter, closer to autumn. But don't leave it in the soil for too long. As soon as the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, immediately dig up, because the head can crumble into individual teeth in the soil.

You can store spring garlic right on top of a kitchen shelf or cabinet.

I, unlike the generally accepted planting of spring garlic in the spring, just plant it in the fall at the same time as tulips. Then his teeth will be almost the same size as that of the winter, and, as expected, in two rows.

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It's not that hard to grow large garlic in your own garden. To do this, it is enough to know some secrets of growing large heads of garlic in the garden, which will help you get big harvest.

winter, planted on the beds in the fall;
spring - for spring planting.

There are also 2 large groups: shooters and non-shooters. In the first, instead of seeds, small single-toothed bulbs are formed - bulbs, often used for planting. Most arrows produce winter crops, but sometimes this feature is also found in spring plants.

Large garlic can be grown from winter varieties. However, such a crop is not stored for long - by the end of winter, the vegetable begins to deteriorate.

In summer garlic, the bulbs of which are rarely obtained big size, the shelf life can be up to two years.

Which variety to give preference to, everyone decides depending on the needs: winter varieties are planted for sale, but spring varieties are planted for long-term use.

Landing dates

Planting dates depend on the variety:

winter garlic planted in late September-mid-October, so that before the onset of frost it has time to take root, but at the same time it does not germinate to the surface. Only in this case will he be able to calmly endure the cold and give a big harvest;
summer variety they begin to grow after the snow melts in early to mid-April. It tolerates cold and will be able to germinate even at a soil temperature of 6 °C. good garlic available for early boarding. At the same time, it should be taken into account that the head must be formed before the onset of hot weather, otherwise the bulbs of spring varieties will not be large.

Garlic must be properly planted and grown to produce large heads.

Growing large garlic in the garden

Garlic is a photophilous culture that does not tolerate wetlands. Without knowing how to properly grow it, it is difficult to achieve good results.

Several factors affecting the size of the future crop:

Choosing a place: it should be open so that nothing blocks the sun necessary for the sprouts.
Bed sizes: they should be wide enough (75 cm) for easier processing and high (8 cm) to prevent water accumulation.
Planting scheme: they make fairly wide row-spacings (20 cm) and a slightly smaller distance between the planted cloves in a row (10 cm), so that in the future it will be convenient to care for the crop. Planting material - garlic - should not be densely distributed, since the forced struggle for space and resources will not allow it to gain the desired weight.

Garden preparation

One of the secrets to getting a good harvest is preparing the beds for future plants. For winter crops, the site is carefully dug up 2-3 weeks before planting, so that the earth has time to settle. If this is not done, then gradually, with the movement of the soil, the garlic cloves will deepen. This will negatively affect the size of the crop and its shelf life.

For spring planting, the garden bed is also prepared in the fall, so that the introduced elements have time to transform into a form digestible for sprouts. The earth is dug up to the depth of a shovel, fertilized if necessary. It is important to loosen the soil well so that it has enough oxygen. After digging, the area is leveled and disinfected with a manganese solution. Then cover with a film and leave until planting.

Fertilizers need to be applied if the soil quality is not optimal for the crop. The soil must be:

neutral;
sandy;
loose.

Reduce the acidity of the soil by liming (a glass of lime per 1 m 2). Loosen the structure with peat, sawdust and sand. They increase fertility by applying fertilizers: 5–6 kg of humus per 1 m 2, for the same area - 1 liter of litter and ash. Organics are replaced with complex mineral fertilizers in the amount of 30–40 g per 1 m 2.

It is important that the soil on the garlic bed is fertile, breathable and moisture permeable.

Planting material preparation

The secrets of growing large garlic include preparing the heads for planting. It is possible to mix up the teeth winter variety with spring ones. It's easy to tell them apart:

the first are characterized by the presence of a central rod, around which an even number of lobules are distributed: 4, 6, 8;
in the second, the number of teeth can be different, they often differ in shape, and there is no rod in the center.

To increase the immunity of future plants in preparation seed the following points must be observed:

Discard all damaged, rotten and moldy heads.
Intergrown, small teeth and their small number (2–3) indicate the degeneration of the variety and low yield. Therefore, for planting it is better to take bulbs with large slices.
Before planting, disinfect the heads by dipping them in a solution blue vitriol(1%) or potassium permanganate (1%) for 20-30 minutes. For the same purpose, the following solution is used: 0.3 kg of wood ash is mixed with water (2 l), boiled, cooled, the light part is separated, into which the planting material is immersed for an hour.

Special requirements for the preparation of the spring variety:

a month before planting, the heads are sent to a cool place (-3 - +2 ° С);
per day, the seed is removed and disinfected;
soak for 12 hours in a growth stimulant (potassium humate or Epin).

To accelerate growth, spring varieties are germinated. To do this, the teeth are laid out in a moistened fabric bag, which is wrapped in polyethylene for two days.

How to plant garlic

In order for garlic to grow large, certain rules are followed when planting it.

Features of the spring planting:

only dry soil is watered, garlic cloves are planted in wet soil without watering;
planting depth - 3 cm;
mulch until sprouts appear with peat.

Planting rules in autumn:

planting is done on time: the cloves should take root, but do not germinate;
so that the bulb does not rot, sand or ash is poured into the grooves, the beds are not shed;
you need to plant garlic to a depth of 5 cm (the larger the clove, the deeper) to reduce the risk of freezing;
after carrying out all the necessary measures, the soil is leveled and mulched with peat or rotted sawdust with a layer of at least 3 cm;
in winter, they are covered with foliage or spruce branches from above (until snow falls), and during the melting period, the shelter is dismantled.

Big Garlic Secrets

Compliance with certain rules for growing crops will help increase productivity. Garlic grown in open ground, will be large if:

drop him off on time;
choose the right variety;
be sure to update the planting material every 3 years, growing from bulbs;
in arrowing species, pinch off the arrows in time;
in spring varieties, tie leaves to stimulate the outflow of nutrients from the foliage to the head;
produce proper care for garlic (watering, fertilizing, mulching).

Crop rotation

the best predecessors for garlic in the country are green manure (alfalfa, clover, oats, mustard), strawberries, pumpkins, cucumbers, peas, zucchini, cabbage;
it will not be possible to get a high yield after nightshade crops (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants) and root crops (beets, radishes, onions, garlic): in this case, the likelihood of plant disease increases, as well as a decrease in the size of the heads.

If you plant a crop next to tomatoes or peppers, then the crop will be larger.

It is not necessary to sow a bed for several years in a row with the same crop, so as not to reduce the yield. Large garlic will turn out only with an annual change in the landing site.

Caring for garlic beds

Caring for growing garlic after planting involves mulching the soil. It allows:

keep moisture;
reduce the amount of watering;
exclude weeding, loosening.

After the arrows grow up to 20 cm long, they are shortened to 5 cm: they can be cut with a sharp tool or broken off, leaving a stump of the desired length. The main thing is to remove the upper part - the germ of the future inflorescence. This will increase the supply of nutrients to the bulb.

20–30 days before harvesting (winter varieties - until mid-July, spring varieties - in the first week of August) they rake the earth from the heads. This is done to redirect some of the nutrition to the bulb and thereby increase its size. The soil is being removed special device so that the teeth are half peeking out of the soil.

Watering

Since garlic is a moisture-loving plant, it grows well in moist soil. That's why important point in the care of the culture is the correctness of watering.

The basic rules are as follows:

most of all, the vegetable needs moisture in the spring, when the root system is actively formed (the first 3 weeks after planting): during this period, it must be watered abundantly (15 liters per 1 m 2) every 5–7 days;
the volume and frequency of irrigation depend on the weather: at a moderate temperature, 10–12 liters are consumed per 1 m 2 with a break of 1–1.5 weeks, in the heat, 15 liters are poured onto the same area with an interval of 5–6 days, and on rainy days, moisturizing soils cease;
after the procedure, it is necessary to sprinkle the bare heads with earth;
It is advisable to use warm water that has stood for some time in the sun.

In no case should waterlogging be allowed, since in such an environment fungal diseases and bulbs spoil.

top dressing

If you feed the plants in time, you can grow garlic with large heads. The winter variety in the spring after the snow melts is shed with urea, and then fertilized as needed. Poor soils are enriched with nutrients 1-2 times a month until the end of the growing season.

When growing spring garlic, top dressing is applied twice:

The first top dressing is done in early spring with a solution of bird droppings (1 kg per bucket of water) or mullein (in the same amount per 8 liters of water).
In the middle of summer, they are watered with a solution of ash (a glass on a bucket of water).

The gardener must follow one important principle: the amount of fertilizer applied should be in moderation. An excess of organic matter contributes to the yellowing of the foliage and the cessation of the growth of the bulbs. A large amount of minerals will adversely affect their taste and quality.

Diseases and pests

A number of pests and diseases can ruin the enjoyment of growing a crop. Garlic is attacked by nematodes, mole crickets, centipedes, onion moths and other insects.

Help save plants from pests folk methods:

spraying twice a month with an infusion of tobacco (0.25 kg) and ground pepper (2 tsp): pour 3 l hot water, stand for three days, then strain, dilute with water up to 10 liters, stir in liquid soap (2 tablespoons);
pollination with a mixture of pepper, tobacco and wood ash 2 times a month.

The plant is susceptible to such diseases:

Donets rot (the bulb rots, the roots die off, the foliage turns yellow);
downy mildew (the process of maturation of the head stops);
white rot (the aerial part of the plant dies and the bulbs rot);
bacterial rot (teeth decay).

To prevent the development of diseases, before planting, the seed is treated with a solution of ash, copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

Harvest and storage

Winter varieties ripen in early August. When the lower leaves turn yellow, start harvesting. This should not be tightened, otherwise the heads will begin to dry out and crumble. This product may have a shorter shelf life.

Spring varieties are harvested in late summer - early autumn, when the feathers turn yellow and begin to lay down, and the bulbs are already formed.

After harvesting, the plants are dried for 1.5 weeks, shaking off the ground. Next, the roots and part of the stem are cut, leaving a stem 5 cm long for winter crops, 2 cm for spring crops. The largest specimens are selected for seed material.

Storage conditions are as follows:

temperature: 16–20 °С for spring varieties, 2–4 °С for winter varieties;
humidity: medium.

Features of growing garlic from bulbs

Garlic is considered a perennial (three-year) crop, but is often used as an annual, which is why it gradually degenerates. To avoid this, you need to regularly update the seed.

When planting winter bulbs, a few arrows are left on sprouts grown from large cloves. Seeds are formed on them - single teeth. When it's time to harvest, the plant is tied up in a bundle and hung to dry. During this period, plastic substances flow to the bulbs from the green mass of the plant, promoting growth. After the stem has completely dried, they are carefully separated.

Bulbs are planted both in spring and autumn in pre-prepared soil. Deepen by 3 cm, as they are very small. Dig up when the leaves begin to turn yellow. Then they are dried: first a couple of days in the sun, then under a canopy. Single teeth planted in the fall, with proper care, will give a good harvest.

Garlic is divided into winter and spring. Each has pros and cons. Winter yields a large harvest, but is poorly stored. Spring yields a smaller crop, but lasts until next year.

plant species

How to distinguish spring from winter appearance? A rigid rod sticks out of the middle of the bulb of a winter crop - the rest of the arrow. The spring one does not have such a rod, so it does not shoot. The teeth of the winter bulb are large and form one layer. The cloves of a spring bulb are small and can be arranged in two or more layers. And the main difference is different dates landing. Spring is planted in spring, and winter - in autumn. And now about the main thing - about the rules of landing.

Video about growing garlic

The technology of growing garlic is constantly being improved. So there were several landing methods, which we will now tell you about.

Method number 1 - traditional

Under the culture, a place is taken from under the early harvested plants: cucumbers, early cabbage, radishes, legumes. The site should not be located in a lowland and flooded melt waters in the spring - the teeth will rot and die. The soil is fertilized: humus or rotted manure is introduced, a shovel is dug onto a bayonet and furrows are made every 25 cm. Uncleaned teeth are planted every 10-12 cm. Plantings are closed, watered and mulched.

Photo of planting winter garlic

Method number 2 - double landing

Double planting garlic is relevant for small areas. The main secret is that garlic is planted in 2 levels (tiers). This is done in the fall or at the end of August. The first row is located below, the second - above. We dig a groove deeper and lay out the first level of teeth at a depth of 11-12 cm. Someone will say - deep. Do not worry. They will feel great there.

We fall asleep with earth and lay out the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. Between the teeth we make a distance of 10-15 cm, between the grooves - 25 cm. Sprinkle with earth. It turns out one tooth over the other. No one interferes with anyone, everything is enough for everyone.

Method number 3 - sowing

You can also not stick teeth into the ground, but sow, that is, lay them on a barrel or just throw them in rows. The only thing that may confuse you is the garlic head lying on its side and the crooked neck. But this does not affect the quality of products, the taste and size of the bulb.

Pictured is planting garlic

The teeth were planted and mulched. In the spring they immediately begin to grow. The tooth that turned out to be lower is in more favorable conditions. He is deeper and he is warmer there. He developed the root system better. And the one that is higher warms up faster in the spring.

When to harvest garlic? The bulbs are harvested when the arrow bursts. Why then break out the arrows? If they are left, then the garlic heads will grow less. The arrow takes on food, as bulbils form on it, but it’s worth leaving a few. Garlic arrows will show you when it's ready to be harvested. The arrows are broken out not when they just appeared from the stem, but when they made a circle.

When to plant garlic?

Every autumn this question arises in all gardeners. And here, as they say, how many people, so many opinions. Someone prefers to plant a bulb 2-3 weeks before the ground freezes. The tooth manages to take root and in the spring willingly starts growing. But the early August and September planting is considered not correct, since the tips of the feather begin to turn yellow early in the plant. We won't convince you of right or wrong specific method. We will tell you about our interesting experience.

We planted garlic in three terms: August 20, September 20 and October 20. Most best harvest gave the August landing. He overwintered the best. If you think about it, it immediately becomes clear why this is so. We planted him early, he managed to take root well, gained strength and immediately drove him into growth in the spring. And the worst harvest was from the October planting. It did not really take root, overwintered poorly and grew little.

If the plant managed to sprout from the August and September planting, then nothing terrible happened. That's the way it should be. To check if the August planting is so effective, plant some of the teeth early, and some when it seems right to you, and then compare the results.

You ask why sprouted garlic does not freeze? When he gave roots, the composition of the cell sap changed, there was more sugar in it. Try freezing the syrup. The syrup won't freeze, but the water will. That is, after germination, it passes into another state, it simply “falls asleep” for the winter.

top dressing

Feeding garlic in the summer closer to harvest is already useless. If you are going to feed him, then this should be done in May - June. Then he gains the weight of the bulb itself from the pen. When he wakes up, he needs it. As a top dressing, take an infusion of biohumus or horse manure. It is desirable to mulch plantings with humus or straw cut into pieces.

The aisles are sprinkled with ash from pests. Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil and protects the bulbs from overheating. You can not mulch the garlic. Cultivation and care then consist of top dressing, regular loosening, weed removal and watering.

Another rule: for planting, choose the largest teeth. Let's plant small - small bulbs and get. If the tops turn yellow, then this indicates damage to the root system. Causes: gnawed roots by pests or the action of soil rot.

If the plantings are mulched, then there is no need to water them. Under normal weather conditions, rain moisture is sufficient. After all, the clove has already grown roots, it will draw moisture out of the soil, and form a good bulb.

Also prefers fertile land. If necessary, humus or rotted manure is added to the soil in the amount of 3-5 kg/m2. The teeth are planted in rows at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. A distance of 25-28 cm is maintained between rows. The approximate depth of embedding garlic cloves is 3 cm. We will describe two methods.

Method number 1 - traditional

Planted spring in early spring April 15-25. Before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and sorted by size. Slices of each size are preferably planted in separate grooves. Care consists in regular loosening of row-spacings, watering and removal of weeds. If the plantings are mulched, as mentioned above, there is no need for watering.

Method number 2 - sprouted teeth

Garlic heads are stored all winter at a temperature of 20 0 C. At the end of March, the onions are disassembled into slices, soaked for 3 hours in water at room temperature, taken out to the cellar, where they are laid out in one layer and covered with rags or film. When the roots grow 2-5 cm long, the teeth are planted in moist soil.

Photo of planting garlic

Spring plants are fed, as well as winter plants, with infusion of mullein, biohumus or horse manure. From inorganic fertilizers, urea is used at the rate of 1 matchbox per bucket of water when shoots appear, then after 10 days and a third time at the end of June. From pests in the aisles, ash is scattered.

Spring bulbs are harvested during the mass drying of the feather of the lower tier of the plant in the third decade of August - the first decade of September. The bulbs selected from the soil are laid out in one row for drying under a canopy. The tops must be completely dry. Do not rush to cut the green shoots of garlic, as the bulb receives nutrition from them and continues to grow during drying. Dry tops are cut off, leaving 5 cm.

Garlic tends to degenerate, like potatoes. When propagated by teeth, diseases gradually accumulate in the culture, the yield decreases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time garlic is renewed from bulbs (air). In the first year, single teeth are obtained from the air. In the second year, full-fledged bulbs grow from them. Garlic turns out to be healthy and there is no need to run around looking for planting material, especially since it is quite expensive.

Photograph of garlic

Bulbs are taken from plants in which the arrow was left. When the inflorescence bursts and the bulbs turn into the color characteristic of this variety, the inflorescences are broken out, put in a dry place for ripening. Bulbs with a diameter of 4-5 mm are taken for landing.

Method number 1 - traditional

Bulbs are sown in the first days of October. Humus 3-4 kg per 1 m 2 is introduced into the soil, dug up. Make rows up to 4 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The rows are watered, every 3 cm air is laid out and sprinkled with earth. In spring and summer, care for crops is the same as for ordinary garlic. By the beginning of August, single-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, which are dug out when the tops turn yellow. They are dried and used for autumn planting for a complete bow.

Method number 2 - direct

In the first year of air traditional method single-toothed are grown. In August, single teeth are not dug up, but left for the winter in the soil. The following spring, the plants are carefully thinned out, thus increasing the distance between the remaining bulbs. By the end of May, the distance between rows should be 25 cm, and between single teeth in a row - 10-12 cm.

Video about growing garlic and caring for it

Method number 3 - growing through winter

Bulbs are sown in the first half of June. Until then, they are stored unthreshed in the refrigerator. By the second decade of September, the plants already have 4-5 leaves, a good root system and a thick, pencil-thick stem. In October, winter plants harden and overwinter well. The following year, full-fledged bulbs develop from them.

We shared with you all the secrets that we used ourselves. Now you know how to grow garlic. It's up to you. Choose the method you like, and preferably several, then to compare the results, and grow huge harvest, to your own delight and to the envy of your neighbors.

The nutritional and healing value of garlic is difficult to overestimate. By adding this vegetable to dishes, you can once and for all get rid of problems with the digestion and assimilation of food. In addition, it is a prophylactic against many diseases. Knowing the basic rules, you can get it at any time of the year. Vegetable feels great on household plots, in gardens, vegetable gardens and even on the windowsill. It can be planted outdoors in both autumn and spring. And garlic is also very good as a fight against numerous pests that affect currants, tomatoes, strawberries. Therefore, it is recommended to plant it next to fruit and berry and vegetable crops.

Features of growing winter garlic

At the end of October or the beginning of November, when the gardens have already been more or less cleaned, summer residents begin to new job- Preparation of sites for new guests. Not knowing how to properly grow winter garlic, novice gardeners are afraid to plant crops for the winter. Although seedlings planted in autumn are stronger and more resilient. The most important thing is to guess with the weather. Teeth should be planted about a month before a long frost. If this is done ahead of time, then the garlic may germinate and lose its cold resistance. With late planting, the vegetable does not have time to create a reliable root system.

Popular varieties

To get a good harvest, it is important not only to know how to grow garlic, but also to choose the right seed. The bottom of the cloves should be free of corky crust, because it retards the growth of the culture. There are some of the most sought-after varieties of garlic that tolerate low temperatures very well. "Komsomolets" and "Otradnensky" are suitable for planting in cold regions. They are spicy in taste, they throw out arrows. Bulb "Komsomolets" weighs up to 30 g, forms about 8 cloves. "Otradnensky" refers to large varieties, its scales are lilac.

It is also worth noting the excellent taste and cold resistance of "Gribovsky Jubilee". This garlic forms an onion with a large number of cloves, its mass reaches 40 g. Also, Poretsky and Danilovsky local varieties are very popular among summer residents. They form a large number of teeth, sharp, cold-resistant.

Planting winter garlic

To get a good harvest, you should choose a suitable site with fertile soil. About a month before planting, it is necessary to dig up the earth, apply organic matter and complex fertilizers, and do not use fresh manure, because it is a source of fungi. The width of the beds should be about 75 cm, and the height - 8 cm. It is recommended to change the places for planting garlic annually. Large bulbs will grow in areas where zucchini, cucumbers or cabbage grew.

Novice gardeners don't know how to grow good winter garlic. There is a little trick here - you need to calibrate the teeth. Too small, rotten, soft should not be taken at all. It is also not recommended to plant specimens with double fruiting bodies or several peaks. Planting material should be disinfected in a 1% solution of copper sulfate. The teeth should be planted to a depth of 5 cm, with an interval of 10 cm, the distance between rows is recommended to be 20 cm. Garlic does not like density, because otherwise it will have to fight for space and fail to gain the desired weight.

Garlic care and cleaning

In autumn, it is recommended to cover the area with the culture with agrofiber, leaves or spruce branches. As soon as the snow melts, the shelter should be removed. In early spring, it is important to make two top dressings with urea, they are necessary for active vegetation. If the soil itself is poor, then for the growth of the bulb, fertilizers should be applied 2 times a month throughout the growing season. As soon as the height of the arrows reaches 20 cm, they must be pinched at a level of 5 cm. To make the garlic ripen faster, you need to rake the earth a little from the bulbs.

It is not worth delaying the harvesting of the culture, it must be carried out as soon as the lower leaves turn yellow. It is very important to know how to properly grow winter garlic, because if you don’t have time to dig it up in time, the scales will move away and expose your teeth, and this will affect the quality of vegetable storage. The bulbs should be placed under a canopy for natural drying for a week, and when the root lobe begins to crumble into dust under the fingers, you can transfer them to a permanent storage place.

Features of growing spring garlic

Fertile loamy and sandy soils are best suited for planting bulbous crops. Knowing how to grow onions and garlic, you can achieve a good harvest. These vegetables are not demanding, but still have some growing characteristics. Garlic is a photophilous plant, so you should not plant it in the shade of trees. It can be allocated a separate bed or placed next to fruit and berry crops or vegetables. Garlic feels good near strawberries, potatoes, raspberries, tomatoes, cucumbers, black currants, onions, gooseberries, roses, gladioli, tulips. It can be planted in areas where cabbage and legumes used to grow, but it is not recommended to combine them on the same bed.

Beginning gardeners don't know how to grow summer garlic healthy and big. To do this, you need to choose a good planting material, remove diseased and small teeth. It is worth updating varieties from time to time, because they can degenerate. In order for spring garlic to grow faster, it is germinated. The teeth are placed in a wet cloth bag and placed in a plastic bag for a couple of days. But you don't have to do all of this.

Planting summer garlic

It is necessary to plant a crop in the spring, as soon as the soil warms up to +7 ° C (somewhere in the beginning or middle of April). Dry soil requires abundant watering, if it is wet, then watering the beds is not necessary. Garlic sits at a depth of about 6 cm, it should exceed the height of the clove twice. Germinated seed must be planted carefully without damaging the root system. The beds need to be mulched. The rows should be made about 20 cm wide, the cloves are planted with an interval of 10 cm. Spring garlic is not afraid of frost, its seedlings appear at +3 ° C. The initial growing season for the crop takes place at +10 °C, the bulb is formed at +15 °C, and it ripens at +25 °C.

Crop care

Many are wondering how to grow large garlic, especially if the summer is hot, and it is not possible to constantly water the beds. In this case, it is necessary to mulch the soil, while it is better to choose light mulch. During the growing season, you should try to provide garlic with abundant watering, because at this time it is actively growing. When the bulbs ripen, moisture is needed in smaller quantities. In rainy weather, the site should not be flooded with water at all. Waterlogging should not be allowed in any case, because it provokes the development of fungi and damage to the bulbs.

For spring garlic, it is recommended to carry out two top dressings: in early spring, pour the ground with a solution of bird droppings or rotted cow dung, and in the middle of summer - with a solution of ash. Mineral fertilizers are not used for the crop, they do not benefit either vegetables or human health. Recommendations on how to grow garlic also include weed control and periodic loosening of the soil. Thanks to mulching, you can greatly facilitate the care of the crop, do not weed the ground and reduce the amount of watering.

What is the difference between spring and winter garlic?

Varieties of culture are divided into two large groups: shooters and non-shooters. Before growing garlic, you should decide on the variety and its type. Gardeners claim that arrowheads form only winter varieties, but in some cases they may also appear on spring crops. It all depends on the climatic features of the region. Winter garlic has large cloves, they are located around the stem. Spring is smaller, its bulbs are dense. Winter crops are frost-resistant and their productivity is extremely high, but in terms of storage time they significantly lose to summer crops, which remain intact throughout the year.

What does garlic need to grow?

This is an incredibly cold-resistant plant that can withstand temperatures down to -45 ° C, so the inhabitants of temperate latitudes have nothing to worry about. Under the snow cover, the bulbs are perfectly preserved, and in the spring at +3 ° C they grow. The culture develops normally at +18-25 °C. In the question of how to grow large garlic, the quality of the soil plays an important role. The plant feels best on loamy and sandy soils, but it does not tolerate acidic and saline soils.

Garlic responds well to top dressing, but mineral fertilizers and fresh manure should be excluded. Loves moisture, but waterlogging can adversely affect the bulbs. For spring garlic, the site must be prepared in the fall, and for winter - a month before planting. The bed should be dug up and about 5 kg of humus per 1 m 2 should be added.

Planting large garlic

It is necessary to immediately decide which crop to plant - winter or spring. In the question of how to grow large garlic, there are several secrets. Large bulbs are easier to get from the winter variety. Depending on the climatic features of the region, it is planted at the end of September or in October. The teeth should take root before the onset of frost, but not grow. Spring garlic is planted in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. He is not afraid of frosts, the main thing here is to gain time, because before the onset of heat, an onion should form. Otherwise, the garlic will turn out small.

In order for the vegetable to grow large, you need to make wide rows (25 cm) and plant the teeth at a distance of 12 cm from each other. It is important to guess with the planting depth, it should be equal to twice the height of the planting material. This rule does not apply to spring garlic, its teeth are deepened by 3 cm. The earth should not be made too loose, but it is not recommended to press the planting material into the ground. After planting, you need to cover the beds with mulch.

Garlic on the windowsill

Many hostesses worry in advance about the presence of greenery in the cold season. If everything is more or less clear with onions, because it sprouts incredibly quickly, then few people know how to grow garlic on a windowsill. And garlic greens are required in many dishes. If you just plant the teeth in a pot of earth, then they will germinate closer to spring. It's very easy to speed up the process. To do this, it is necessary to put containers with garlic outside late in the fall so that it undergoes cold treatment. Then you should bring the boxes home and water the soil warm water. At a temperature of +17 ° C, greenery will appear in a week. Even those who did not know how to grow garlic at home can easily get it in the cold season. Fragrant greens on the windowsill during the period when a blizzard is raging outside the window, what could be more comfortable?

Diseases of garlic

Despite the undemanding culture, it can still be affected by various diseases during the growing season. The most common is the rot of the bottom, because of the fungus, the bulb rots, the roots die, the leaves turn yellow. If a gray coating appears on the leaves, it means that downy mildew has attacked the garlic. This disease threatens with underripe bulbs. White rot provokes the death of leaves and the formation of mycelium on the roots. The disease leads to decay of the teeth. Bacterial rot also leads to very unpleasant consequences. Because of it, brown sores with the smell of rot appear on the teeth. To protect the crop from pests, it is necessary to treat the garlic with an ash solution before planting. You can also plant a plant next to calendula and chicory, they save from the nematode.

Purslane is a well-known, widespread weed throughout the world, which has a number of qualities for which all gardeners unanimously hate it. One of them is indestructibility. Purslane is so viable that even one seed can be the beginning of the capture of the site by this weed. To remove purslane from the garden and orchard, patience, knowledge and clarity in the implementation of measures to destroy it are required. In this article, we will consider methods for dealing with purslane on the site.

The first half of spring is stingy with flowering plants. Yes, primroses are already pleasing, but there is a very special plant that is impossible not to be touched. This is a perennial evergreen groundcover of obriet. I think those who saw low pillows, or, as they say, curtains of this plant during flowering, probably wanted to have it in their garden. And I hasten to please you, obrieta is a very unpretentious and easy-to-care plant. Although, there are some features.

Delicious cabbage soup with lamb, sweet peppers, tomatoes, potatoes and, of course, with cabbage! It takes quite a lot of time to prepare this dish, but this does not mean that you have to stomp in the kitchen all day. Prepare vegetables and meat - wash, chop, arrange in bowls. Then sauté vegetables, add lamb. When the soup boils, you can go about your business for about 1.5 hours, then add potatoes and cabbage and bring to readiness for another half hour.

If you have an apple tree growing in your garden, naturally you want to get as many tasty fruits from it as possible. Often, novice gardeners believe that the more magnificent the tree, the greater the harvest will please. But it's not. In order for an apple tree to give a rich, high-quality harvest, so that the fruits turn out to be large and juicy, each of its branches must receive enough light and air. With a decrease in the amount of light on the branches up to 30 percent, fruit buds do not form on the trees.

Ferns are one of the categories that are actively gaining popularity. indoor plants. Their luxurious leaves with unique ornaments and soothing mysterious shades of green look so elegant that it is difficult to resist the beauty of ferns, even if there is no suitable place for them. Along with unpretentious ferns, rare and original species are becoming more common. And among them is a bizarre epiphyte polypodium with unusual leaves and colors.

Bigos in Belarusian - a hot dish from sauerkraut and meat, which is prepared in many countries: Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Ukraine and Belarus. Each country has its own characteristics of cooking, but the basis is about the same everywhere - a mixture of sour and fresh white cabbage, pork belly and smoked meats. Bigos is cooked for a long time, but the result is worth it. You can easily get rid of the not very pleasant aroma of stewed sauerkraut by following my recommendations.

Gardeners, waking up from their "winter hibernation", miss gardening, and their hands are reaching for the tools. But it is important to approach the issue of pruning ornamental plants with skill. After all, it’s not for nothing that they say “measure seven times, but cut once.” Our article will help you figure out how to make the right spring “hairstyles” for plants, which of the green pets will gladly respond to a new haircut, and for which garden residents it is better to wait a little with pruning.

Cucumbers are the favorite crop of most gardeners, so they grow in our vegetable beds everywhere. But quite often, inexperienced summer residents have many questions about their cultivation, and, first of all, in the open field. The fact is that cucumbers are very heat-loving plants, and the agricultural technology of this crop in the zones temperate climate has its own characteristics. Everything you need to know about growing cucumbers in the open field, we will tell in this article.

May Days please with warmth and the opportunity to spend more time on the sites. But the long-awaited month of the arrival of stable heat cannot boast of balance. lunar calendar. In May, periods favorable for work only in ornamental garden or only in the garden, are quite long, and there are quite a few days suitable for any plants. The lunar calendar for May 2019 requires planning and skillful timing of planting and sowing.

Snack cake - simple and delicious! Such a chicken liver cake with vegetables and delicious sauce will decorate a modest family holiday or Sunday dinner. Liver pancakes, they are also the layers of our cake, are prepared very easily, the easiest way to make liver dough is in a blender. Pancakes are fried for several minutes on each side. Cream (sauce) for a snack cake is made from sour cream with mayonnaise and herbs. If you rub the dill with salt, the cream will turn into a light green color.

Despite the popularity of the popular nickname "bottle palm", it is very difficult to confuse the authentic bottle palm giophorba with its relatives. A real indoor giant and a rather rare plant, giophorba - it is one of the most elite palms. She became famous not only for her special, bottle-like barrel, but also for her very difficult character. Caring for giophorba is no more difficult than caring for ordinary indoor palm trees. But the conditions will have to be chosen.

Warm salad with funchose, beef and mushrooms - delicious dish for the lazy. Funchoza - rice or glass noodles - is one of the easiest to prepare among its pasta relatives. It is enough to pour glass noodles with boiling water and leave for a few minutes, then drain the water. Funchoza does not stick together, it does not need to be watered with oil. I advise you to cut long noodles with scissors into smaller fragments so as not to inadvertently catch the entire portion of noodles in one sitting.

Surely, many of you have met this plant, at least as a component of some cosmetic or food products. It is “disguised” under different names: “jujube”, “unabi”, “jujuba”, “Chinese date”, but all this is one and the same plant. This is the name of a culture that has long been grown in China, moreover, it was grown as a medicinal one. From China, it was brought to the countries of the Mediterranean, and from there, jujube began to slowly spread throughout the world.

May chores in the ornamental garden are always associated with the need to use every free minute as productively as possible. This month, seedlings of flowers are planted and begin seasonal decoration. But neither shrubs, nor lianas, nor trees should be forgotten. Due to the imbalance of the lunar calendar this month with ornamental plants it is better to work in the beginning and middle of May. But the weather does not always allow you to follow the recommendations.