How to make a solid wooden door for the house with your own hands? How to make a wooden door with your own hands - a step-by-step guide Do-it-yourself wooden door to the cottage.

  • 27.06.2020

Entrance wooden door private house, Photo

The entrance wooden door can be made by anyone with the right hands. Doors are one of the main elements for the interiors of most buildings.

They have certain functions: protection from unwanted visitors, heat preservation, protection from unnecessary noise, etc. Such structures are now increasingly made of metal, but the internal ones are almost always wooden.

Let's take a closer look at the manufacturing process itself.


Briefly what will be discussed:
  • Dowels
  • Paneled
  • Blocks
  • Block mount
  • platbands
  • Pins
  • Hinge installation
  • Types of loops
  • gaps
  • Regulation
  • Locks

Dowels

how to do

Main structural elements for doors are boards that form a panel, dowels in the amount of two pieces and a strut. It is located diagonally and serves as protection against distortions.

Usually the slope and dowels are knocked out on the panel. For this, bars are used. In more difficult cases dowels cut directly into the boards. For these purposes, the keys are made according to the dimensions as in the figure.

Cuts are made circular electric saws, exposing them at the desired slope (about 60 degrees).

Paneled

The outer side can be either simple or embossed. The corners of the platbands form a "mustache" at 45 degrees. At the beginning, vertical platbands are sawn and leveled.

Then a casing (horizontal) is substituted under their upper part. The angle is marked with a pencil on one side, sawn off. Then, too, is done with a different angle.

Wooden entrance doors Do-it-yourself fasteners of platbands are installed with finishing nails or self-tapping screws.

Pins

The most common defects are buckling due to dry material. If there are pins, then in case of warping, it will not crumble. The absence of pins is unacceptable.

loops

Making entrance wooden doors with your own hands, you can not do without hinges. There are more than 20 types of loops (see). The height of the hinges can vary from 30 to 40 cm. For home doors, 75-150 cm is enough.

The most common are semi-hinged removable ones, consisting of two cards (one with a rod, the other without). Sometimes hinged hinges are used. Loops can be left and right, as well as universal.

gaps

Before installing the hinges, the panel is laid so that there is no gap between the opening and it along the hinge line. To do this, use scraps of hardboard or identical slats, placing them so as to have a uniform gap.

The hinges cut at a distance equal to their height, measured from inner corner framework. If there are spikes in that place, you need to step back 1 cm from them.

After installing the gaskets, measuring the distance at which the loops will be, the cards are outlined with a pencil along the contour. Nests for loops are selected with a chisel based on the depth of thickness. The surface of the hinges should be flush with the door panel, as well as the bar of the rack.

Useful advice! Door hinges attached with screws. If colored self-tapping screws are used, then you need to know that they are fragile. Black wood screws are better hardened, more durable.

Door adjustment

If they eventually begin to close loosely or creak with a creak, they need to be adjusted. Adjustment (see) consists of lubricating the loop, tightening the screws, replacing them with longer ones, installing the wedges in the holes (if they are loose).

Lubricants are thick and solid consistency: pieces of graphite rod, grease, lubricants. After removal or as a result of lifting it, it is necessary to push grease into the loop hole in a certain amount. If after a while the grease begins to stand out from the loops, then it was put too much.

Sometimes they sag a lot, clinging to the floorboards. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to place washers of a certain thickness of the inner and outer diameter between the loop cards.

You can also rearrange the hinges higher, or plan the lower end of the door leaf. Planing should be done moderately in order to maintain a minimum gap with the allowable humidity of the room.

When making entrance wooden doors with your own hands, you need to keep in mind that if gaps have formed between the panels of the panel, they need to be glued and puttied, or sorted out, or covered with planks.

Useful advice! To avoid hitting the door with a door leaf or handle against the wall when opening, a buffer (stop) must be fixed to the floor. The farther it is from the hinges, the better.

About door locks

It is better if there is no lock, but there is. If properly fitted, the handle will be enough to close the door with a good tightness. If the door opens a little, a leather heel is stuffed on it.

The heel is stuffed with the required thickness on the panel closer to the handle, or on the upper end. The handle must be attached to the harness, but not to the panel board, as this will be stronger. When installing the handle, it is taken away from the opening so as not to injure the hand.

Locks are installed on the outer doors. The most commonly used are padlocks with eyelets, as well as overhead and mortise locks. The easiest option is hanging, but they are less reliable.

Also, chains, closers, hecks, bolts, eyes and other elements can be installed on external doors.

Assembling a wooden door with your own hands

Choice of door material

Before you do wooden door with your own hands, you need to choose the material. For these purposes, it is best to use wood species that are durable, but at the same time easily processed. These include:

type of wood Peculiarities
Pine Among the advantages, one can single out such points as:
  • Low price;
  • Ease of processing;
  • Light weight;
  • Moisture resistant.

The only thing to note is that pine can dry out over time, so it is not always appropriate.

Alder It is also easy to handle and light in weight. The only thing is that alder must be carefully processed antiseptic formulations because it is highly prone to decay.
Birch Sufficiently hard and dense wood with a beautiful texture.
Oak It is a very strong and durable wood, however, difficult to work with. In addition, oak is quite expensive.
Beech Strong and durable rock, resistant to mechanical stress. The only thing when making doors from beech, it should be borne in mind that this wood is susceptible to moisture. Therefore, it requires special processing.
Larch Is durable and durable material resistant to moisture. The only drawback of larch is the rather high cost.
Maple It has good strength and is easy to process. Among other advantages of maple, moisture resistance can be distinguished.

Note!
If you want to make wooden doors to the bathhouse with your own hands, then it is better to use linden, since this wood does not emit resin when heated.

I must say that special impregnations allow changing certain qualities of wood.

Therefore, the main selection criteria are usually:

  • First of all, you need to cut a sheet of fiberboard, which should fit the door frame in size.
  • Along the perimeter, the sheet is sheathed with boards. If a milling cutter is available, profiles should be made to connect the boards to each other according to the tenon / groove principle. You can attach the boards to the chipboard with self-tapping screws and wood glue.
  • Then stiffening ribs are mounted in the center in the same way.
  • Further, on both sides, the product is sheathed with plywood and veneer as a finishing coating..

There is another technology for the manufacture of a panel structure that uses insulation. For its manufacture, you will need boards 25 mm thick and at least 50 mm wide, as well as plywood sheets.

Production of insulated doors

So, a warm wooden door with your own hands is made in the following sequence:

  • First, from the boards you need to make a frame, which is a frame and crossbars in the middle. Braces can also be used to give more rigidity.
  • Further, plywood is attached to the frame on one side.
  • Then a heat insulator is placed in the frame, and the product, on the other hand, is sheathed with sheet material.

The panel structure is much more difficult to implement, as it consists of many parts. Therefore, it is better to take up its manufacture after gaining experience in the manufacture of simpler products. True, after the manufacture of all the elements, the paneled door is assembled as a designer, without any difficulties.

Panel door design diagram

According to the device, it resembles a window frame, as it consists of a frame (strapping) and panels that fill the space of the frame.

Advice!
Since the door is a collapsible structure, when any part of it becomes unusable, you can repair wooden doors with your own hands, replacing the damaged element with a new one.

So, the process of its manufacture is as follows:

Installation

  1. measurements. Before buying products, measure the width and height of the opening (see). If the finish flooring missing, add its planned height to the calculations.
  2. . After laying out the details of the box on the floor, view the presence of everything you need. Take measurements again. Don't forget, one mistake and the job will go down the drain. Glue the parts at the corners, securing them with self-tapping screws.
  3. Foaming. Place the box in the opening. Fix the frame with wedges at the corners and in the center. Check the level of the installed frame. Install rigid spacers opposite the wedges. Then fill the gaps between the wall and the box with foam.
  4. Installation. Wait for the foam to dry, after 12 hours you need to remove its protruding pieces. Then remove the wedges, remove the spacers. Now it's the turn of the platbands. Saw down the pre-required length at an angle of forty-five degrees, drill holes for the nails. Attach the platband to the opening, fix it with finishing nails. The door can be hinged.
  5. Pens. After completing all the work, it remains to fasten the handles. better in advance.

Construction of residential or country house always associated with great material costs. To save money, many types construction works trying to do it by hand. How realistic is the independent production of street entrance doors? In today's article - a master class on making a wooden outer door with your own hands. To help the master, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with photos and videos on this topic.

Exterior doors made of wood - do-it-yourself production

To begin with, it is worth recalling that a wooden door consists of two main elements: the door leaf and. In addition to the main structures made of wood, for the normal functioning of the door, the following are required: handles, hinges, metal fasteners.

For the manufacture of a wooden front door, lumber will be required: timber for tying the box; boards; bars; wide board for the threshold (if provided); platbands. To insulate the door leaf, a heater may be required. It is necessary to carry out work on the manufacture of doors using various tools:

  • roulette;
  • construction level;
  • hacksaw, a set of chisels;
  • sandpaper for grinding;
  • fixture.

Carpentry glue, fittings, chipboard - these materials should be prepared in advance before starting work on the door.

Advice! When choosing lumber for the manufacture of a door block, you should pay close attention to the quality of the wood, the presence of knots, the degree of humidity, and geometric dimensions. The wood must be dried, otherwise deformation changes are possible after the door is made.

Panel door panels

This is enough simple designs, assembled from separate boards, equal in parameters: length, thickness, width. After carrying out the mandatory measurements to determine the dimensions of the door leaf, you should proceed to the preparation of boards for the door. The material is cut to the right sizes, processed with skin. If the shield door from individual boards is finished with chipboard, then a blank of the required size is cut out of the sheet.

To assemble the door leaf, strapping bars should be prepared - dowels and a strut. The dowels are used to secure the shield assembled from the boards, they are installed at the bottom and top of the door leaf. In total, 2 dowels are required. The brace is installed diagonally across the door, the part prevents premature distortions and deformations of the door structure.

Then the plank blank is sheathed with chipboard, if additional finishing of the door leaf is provided.
To hang the door, it is necessary to choose reliable, durable hinges that can withstand the weight of the leaf and multiple openings of the door leaf.

Advice! When choosing hinges, it is necessary to take into account the direction of opening the door (to the left or to the right).

Assembling a panel wooden door from pre-prepared boards is as follows:

  • Cut and sanded parts are laid out on the floor.
  • With the help of a hammer and nails (self-tapping screws and a screwdriver), the boards are assembled into a shield, at the same time they strengthen the canvas with dowels and a strut.

Advice! When assembling a shield door, it is necessary to carry out control measurements with a level and a tape measure.

Panel doors include structures assembled from whole sheets of plywood or chipboard, with a gasket inside the insulation layer.

Chipboard sheets prepared to size, timber, dowels and struts are connected in the following sequence:

  1. A frame is assembled from beams.
  2. Dowels are installed along the perimeter of the box, diagonally a brace beam.
  3. The outer sheet of plywood or ICE is fixed on the frame, a heater is inserted inside, the second side of the door is closed with a prepared chipboard sheet.
  4. After completing the assembly of the door leaf, hinges are hung on the door structure and door fittings are mounted.

Paneled doors

Paneled doors are more reliable designs of entrance doors, while they have a high degree of decorativeness. The base of the door consists of a high-quality timber, which is called a strapping. The central part of the door is an insert made of wood, plywood, chipboard (actually a panel). The paneled insert is strengthened in the strapping grooves, which are provided for when cutting the timber.

Panels can be solid or composite, while they can have decorative elements or glass inserts. Carpenter's glue is used to securely fasten the panel in the grooves.

Advice! In the manufacture of a paneled door, preference should be given to coniferous wood (pine, cedar, larch). Oak board is great for making panel doors, only the cost of oak wood is very high.

For the manufacture of a paneled door, you should prepare:

  • timber for strapping racks;
  • panel;
  • accessories;
  • fixture.

The tools needed are the same as in the case of the manufacture of a panel door.

The bars pre-cut to size are connected into a single frame: grooves are provided in the strapping bars to strengthen the panel. Loop reinforcement points door handles, locking devices, can be strengthened by setting additional bars.

The assembled paneled part is strengthened in the grooves, fixed with glue. It is allowed to strengthen the panel by installing glazing beads, although this method does not guarantee a strong and durable connection. The finished door leaf is hung in the door frame in the same way as a panel door.

Exterior doors with glass inserts - it is allowed to insert glass inserts into the entrance doors. To do this, you should carefully measure the dimensions of the insert, and cut the sheet of glass in accordance with these dimensions. For the installation of glass inserts, it is required to perform additional framing of the frame for the installation of glass, and also use glazing beads to strengthen it.

With minimal woodworking skills, you can save a lot of money by making your own front door.

Making wooden entrance doors: video

Do-it-yourself wooden door for a house: photo












Self-execution of construction work in many ways contributes to savings Money. This is the main motivator for those who do not have extra money or are too limited in it at the time when the moment comes to make a decision, install interior or exterior doors, inviting a construction team or decide to personally participate in the case.

At the same time, the zone where people live additionally influences the resolution of such a problem. If in city apartments the installation of doors almost always involves the use of factory-made options, then in the suburban area this issue is treated more selectively.

Proof of this are photos of homemade doors, so often presented on the Internet by private craftsmen.

Forms for obtaining training information

Many people like to share their experience and skill in carpentry work on personal pages through the worldwide network. Especially if the result exceeds all expectations.


Compliance with technology and at the same time a non-standard approach to design development leads to the fact that sometimes, as a result of exciting work, original exclusive types of home-made doors are obtained.

For those who want to learn carpentry and subsequently independently carry out all the relevant processes, including the manufacture of doors, there is a calculation on the Internet teaching materials, conducting video master classes by specialists, as well as detailed description all technological stages, both for manufacturing door structures, and other works.

It is important to carefully study the material provided. In the future, based on the information received, it will be possible to try to independently carry out the installation work. door frame, installation of the canvas and fittings.

Why is it important to know the basics

However, it is impossible to start immediately with complex species. As in any business, you first need to master the basics. And for starters, it’s worth understanding what the design of the door is. This is the only way to better understand, it is easier to master all the technology and really figure out how to make a door yourself.


First, it is necessary to distinguish between such concepts as "block", "box" and "canvas". Secondly, to be able to determine the parameters of the door, so that it is freely installed in the prepared opening and can easily function (open and close).

Thirdly, you should carefully consider the selection of basic materials in order to avoid distortions later. It is clear that a light plasterboard partition is unlikely to withstand a heavy massive structure, and on the contrary, a powerful door block is required to enter, protecting from cold and noise.

Door material and future use

Many, when deciding which door can be made with their own hands, come to the conclusion that boards can serve as the main material for such work.

Given the power of the structure, the plank door is a shield assembled from edged or unedged boards a certain thickness, firmly fastened. It is customary to mount the fence on utility blocks, use it at the entrances to houses or baths.

Selection of working tools

Door assembly work begins with preparatory phase, which first of all includes a selection of tools. Thus, not only the question of what you can make a door with your own hands is being worked out, but also what contributes to its more convenient installation.


To create better working conditions, it is advisable to acquire a table-workbench on the farm. It is on it that it is easiest to carry out staged assembly equally fitted boards into one solid canvas.

The following must be included in the list of tools:

  • the purchase of a manual milling cutter, which will make it easier to make grooves, surface grinding, leveling corners and other actions;
  • purchase of a hacksaw, chisels, as well as a planer for end grinding and leveling the blade;
  • purchase of a screwdriver, grinder (can be replaced with sandpaper);
  • purchase of conventional and rubber hammers.

To fix the dimensions you will need building level, working pencil, tape measure and meter.

Suitable as base materials sheet pile boards with the type of fastening "thorn-groove". The thickness of the boards is selected depending on the type of future operation of the door and the external design. Various self-tapping screws and carpentry glue are selected for fastening.

For an economy option, ordinary boards are used. Their initial length on sale can be about 6 meters. The height of the canvas, meanwhile, is less than 2 meters. It turns out that from one purchased wooden product there will be three elements for assembling the canvas.

Before buying wood materials, it is worth making a calculation and finding out how many boards will be needed in total. Since in the future they always have to be cut, you need to immediately determine the quantity, based on the total number of installed blocks.


The importance of careful preparation of wood for door installation

The assembly of the door block is a complex and time-consuming work. And, of course, with such work, instructions on how to properly make a door are required. The initial steps should be the processes associated with the preliminary preparation of wood.

It is desirable to subject purchased boards to additional drying. Each board is laid on a gasket (bar). The location of the boards should be such that they do not touch each other. Moisture at the time of drying will freely exit from the wood fibers.

Drying is best done in a warm closed place. For example, in a shed. If you can place the boards only on the street, they should be covered with a dense material that does not allow water to pass through. Often roofing material is chosen for this.

Carrying out the main stages and choosing decoration options

After the door frame is already installed in the opening, they begin to manufacture the canvas. Step by step manufacturing a simple door involves assembly and fastening, already fitted to desired parameters, ordinary boards with a thickness of 10-25 mm., Using the tools and materials indicated above in the case.

When the base is ready, proceed to finishing. There are a lot of decorating methods, but their selection should be done depending on the required severity of the structure.

MDF panels, lining can act as decor materials.

DIY door photo

The market offers a wide range of different doors. But sometimes it is difficult to choose a model that fully meets the needs of the owner. There are enough reasons - a significant difference in dimensions (block / opening), poor product quality, unsuccessful external design, high cost, and so on. For a person who is on “you” with a household tool, making interior doors with your own hands is not a problem. In many cases, this solution is the most rational.

Preparation stage

Do-it-yourself design, assembly of something requires a thorough analysis of many factors and the choice of the most appropriate option.

Material

Given the organization of production at home, the best option is wooden doors. On sale there are interior models from different materials- plastics, glass, aluminum - but working with them requires not only experience, but also a special tool. In addition, wood has an undeniable advantage - it is able to "breathe", which has a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house.

Engineering solution

Interior doors are divided into several types - hinged, folding, sliding (compartment). The models differ in design- single-leaf, "two", "one and a half". Some of them have an upper extension - a transom. What would you like to focus on? Without professional skills, special tools, machine equipment, it is worth choosing a hinged interior door with one leaf.

These are the most popular varieties installed inside apartments and private houses. If you study step by step instructions for the design of doors of all types, it is the hinged "odnushki" that are easier to manufacture. In addition, the preparation of the opening for their installation does not require complex technological operations.

Canvas type

  • Paneled. The advantage of interior doors of this category is in relatively light weight. The fabrics are made up of wooden frame and inserts that differ in size, material, shape. The difficulty is that the panels will have to be fixed on it, and for this you need to select quarters in the tree. Even with a professional tool (equipment) at hand, the independent production of interior doors of this variety (if we mean quality) is a big question. To achieve the proper result, you will have to spend a lot of time and material, the consumption of which will turn out to be significant, as the rejection volume will increase.

  • Shield. This solution is optimal. The only downside is the weight. But this problem is also solved if you choose boards of small thickness. Since we are talking about interior doors, and not about entrance doors, the strength of the canvas is not a paramount factor. But there are much more pluses: ease of assembly, the possibility of any finish (lacquering, tinting, brushing, cladding with plastic, decorative film, natural veneer - practice different styles design), high maintainability.

In addition, the door dampens noise well and is characterized by low thermal conductivity. There is another factor that is overlooked by many. Wood is prone to deformation (under the influence of changes in humidity, temperature in the house, it “plays”). A solid door is less susceptible to it than a paneled model, especially if the inserts are made of a different material. For example, glass, plastic.

lumber

  • The type of wood, if subsequent finishing of the canvas and the box is planned, big role does not play. You can partially save on this by choosing inexpensive products. But if it is decided to make a door from boards while maintaining their texture, then the answer to the question of what to buy is obvious.
  • The degree of drying of the tree. According to SNiP, lumber with a moisture content exceeding 22% cannot be used in construction. With regard to doors, experts advise focusing on 10 - 12. Wet wood will shrink, and the structure will "lead". If the samples are thoroughly dried, then, firstly, they will cost more, and secondly, there will be difficulties with their cutting. In addition, excessively dry wood easily splits, and this will cause problems with fastening fittings, inserting locking devices.

Varieties and dimensions

  • Frame. A beam with a side of 40 - 50 mm is enough for the frame of the canvas. It is necessary to take into account the installation location of the door, that is, how intensively it will be used. Plus - the specifics of the room at the entrance to which it is mounted; Is it supposed to equip the door with a lock, if so, what type. The latter fully applies to canopies.
  • Canvas. For weight loss interior door and to facilitate the manufacturing process, it is advisable to use MDF for sheathing the frame. Another argument in favor of this decision is board material(if it is of high quality, carefully processed) is inert to humidity, temperature. If you want to make a solid wood door, boards of 10 with a width of 150 are suitable.
  • Box The old joint is rarely left in place. If going new door, then completely, in a set. When choosing a beam, you need to take into account the thickness of the wall (partition) at the installation site. There is no other recommendation, except for the sufficient strength of the jamb, on this point.

The choice of material is largely determined by the drawing of the door. The canvas of the interior door is made in different ways; it can be solid, hollow or "cellular". Last option called shallow.

door scheme

  • Dimensions. The initial data for calculations is the size of the opening. For the accuracy of calculations, its width is measured at 3 levels; similarly with height - at three points (on the sides and center). It should be borne in mind that a technological gap of 4 ± 1 mm is left between it and the box around the perimeter. This is the outer contour of the jamb. Provided that the width of the canvas is of decisive importance, then everything else is calculated based on its required dimensions. In this case, the gap between it and the jamb (within 1 mm) is also taken into account.

In practice, it is difficult to make wooden doors with your own hands, without work experience, in strict accordance with the indicated values, but it is advisable to adhere to just such values. And most importantly - the correct shape (rectangle) of the door box. The slightest distortions, distortions - and problems with a snug fit of the canvas are provided.

  • The direction of plowing the canvas. When determining it, the location of the opening in the room is taken into account; The pictures illustrate this well.

Manufacturing procedure

The assembly of the interior door is carried out according to different methods. But if the meaning of all operations is clear, then develop own technology not difficult.

box

It is quite simple with him - to assemble a rectangular structure, and only then place it in the opening. But installation is recommended only after the manufacture of the canvas. This makes it easier to mark the attachment points of the canopies and the latch (lock). Doing this on a jamb already mounted in the opening is much more difficult. In addition, it is necessary to make a selection of grooves under the door. And therefore, after the box is shot down, it has yet to be returned to.

canvas

It all depends on its chosen scheme, and therefore where to start - from strapping or cutting MDF boards, is decided based on the drawing of the door.

Frame manufacturing

The technology is simple - going rectangular shape by sash size. But with its filling there are options.

  • Stiffening ribs are installed in the form of vertical racks. Such a decision is advisable if the frame is planned to be sheathed with MDF, plywood - the strength of the coating will be ensured.

  • One horizontal jumper in the center. Good decision when insulating an interior door. For example, installed in the passage leading to a cold room (utility room). The canvas is filled with expanded polystyrene, and its plates around the perimeter are foamed.

  • Leave one frame without additional elements (shallow-hollow design). How to fill it and whether to do it is decided depending on the specifics of the room. But this version of the frame is only suitable for interior doors that are sheathed with a board. Otherwise, strength is out of the question.

Fabric making

  • Its dimensions are known; it remains only to cut the MDF into 2 - 3 fragments, according to the drawn up drawing.
  • The second stage is the assembly of the harness. That is, the frame is assembled on an already finished canvas.

Advice. To facilitate the work, it is recommended to mark all blanks. On individual samples (according to the scheme), cuts, cuts, and drillings are preliminarily made to install door hardware elements. This is much easier than doing such work on an assembled overall structure. The difficulty is that the markup must be extremely accurate.

Door processing

  • Recommended to use again antiseptic. Since samples of material, drilling were made, individual sections can be “bare”. The secondary use of the composition from rot eliminates this disadvantage.
  • Surface finish. The options are marked: stain, varnish, veneer, film - depending on the design intent.

Preparing for installation

At this stage, latches, eyes, handles and hinges are installed on the canvas. A box is placed in the opening, leveled and securely fixed.

All that remains is to hang the door, align the second half of the canopy with the mounting holes and secure with self-tapping screws (included).

"Finishing chord" - checking the correct operation of the canvas, tightness, absence of distortions; if deficiencies are identified, eliminate them. All further activities - insulation of the opening, installation of platbands, decoration- a slightly different topic.

Making an interior door at home is quite realistic. Success largely depends on proper work planning, the choice of the optimal design scheme and your own diligence. And the quality is guaranteed good tool, the acquisition of which is not worth the money to spare.

The quality of the offered interior doors, which can be purchased at most hardware stores, may not always satisfy customers. They can be beautiful, attractive, but the strength and durability of these products leaves much to be desired. Therefore, many home craftsmen have no choice but to make interior doors with their own hands. Moreover, there are no great difficulties in this if you select the material and follow a certain plan.

Materials for making canvas

Before starting work on self-manufacturing the interior door needs to prepare the material. In most cases, a tree is used for this purpose. The canvas frame is made from it, as well as the door frame. In addition to the tree, can be used:

  • Styrofoam;
  • Cardboard honeycombs;
  • Glass;

Styrofoam and cardboard honeycombs are used as a door leaf filler, it is not made from solid wood. These materials are lightweight, which is important for subsequent operation. In addition, the foam allows you to reduce the noise level, making the canvas more sound-absorbing.

The use of glass for the manufacture of interior doors is primarily due to the aesthetic side.. Such inserts visually expand the room, and also allow you to diversify the design of the room. Glass has one more property. It perfectly transmits daylight. Therefore, with glazed interior canvases in the corridors of the apartment it will be much lighter, even if the door is closed.

Fiberboard or its more advanced version MDF is used as a sheathing material. In the construction of the canvas, these materials are responsible for decorative trim future product. At the same time, MDF is the finishing element, but fiberboard will have to be further processed to give it an attractive finish. appearance.

In addition to the listed materials, sheets of laminated chipboard can be used as sheathing. A wide selection of colors imitating natural wood, makes this type of finish very popular. It should be noted that the use of laminated chipboard will give the doors more rigidity in the diagonals.

As a fastening material, you can use PVA glue or confirmations. To cover the finished canvas you will need varnish. If you need to add colors, then the problem is solved thanks to stains and tinted varnishes.

Required Tool

The next stage of preparation will be the preparation of the tool that will be needed to make the interior door. You must have on hand:

  • Manual or electric planer;
  • Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
  • A set of chisels and chisels;
  • Manual electric milling cutter;
  • grinding machine;
  • Miter box;
  • Square and ruler;
  • Hammer and mallet;
  • Pencil and tape measure.

With such a set, you can safely begin the manufacture of any joinery product. You should also prepare a vacuum cleaner to quickly remove not only sawdust, but also dust, which should not be on the surface of the product during paintwork.

Manufacturing and assembly

When the preparation is over, it is the turn of the main work. You will need to follow these steps step by step:

  • Take measurements;
  • Process the material;
  • Perform markup;
  • Saw and assemble the canvas frame;
  • Install accessories.

In order for the work to proceed quickly, and the product to turn out to be of high quality, it is worth preparing a drawing. Thanks to him, it is easy to mark up and not make a mistake with the configuration of the future door.


Panel door assembly principle

Canvas measurement

Work should start with measuring doorway. This operation will allow you to calculate the dimensions of the box and canvas, as well as determine the configuration of the future product. If the opening does not exceed 80 cm, then a single-leaf door block should be made. With more big size you need to make two canvases to reduce the load on the loops and give a more attractive appearance to the entire product.

The resulting size must be reduced in height and width by 2 cm. This is required to create an assembly seam obtained between the box bar and the slope of the opening. After installation, it is filled with polyurethane foam. With the help of the obtained dimensions, a drawing is drawn up, according to which it is necessary to make an interior door.


door leaf dimensions

Such a guide should also contain the dimensions of the door leaf. To calculate them, you should subtract from the width and height of the opening the thickness of the box beam in the place where the quarter will be selected. From the resulting size, it is necessary to subtract another 4 mm in width and from 4 to 12 mm in height. These values ​​fall on the gap that must remain for the free rebate of the door leaf. This defines all the data for the drawing.

It should be noted that the box beam does not have to be made for the entire thickness of the wall. The remaining space can easily close the extension installed after installation work.

Making a door frame

As soon as the drawing with dimensions is completely ready, you can proceed to the next stage of work. At this stage, the material should be processed and the frame of the door leaf should be prepared. To do this, use a planer.


For the frame of the door leaf you need to use planed boards

For the frame, you can take edged board 40 x 100 mm. The ideal option there will be a purchase of planed material, which will facilitate the work and significantly speed it up. But you can also use just sawn boards. They will have to be processed with a planer to give smoothness. During planing, you should carefully monitor the corners of the bars. They must have a strict 90 degree angle. You can check the work with a square.


Scheme of connection of frame elements

Next, the parts are marked according to the dimensions indicated in the drawing. On them it will be necessary to saw off blanks. If the parts must be fastened with spikes, then all horizontal parts of the frame will be longer by the size of two spikes. For example, for bars 100 mm wide, a tenon 70 mm long is required for connection. In this case, 140 mm should be added to the workpiece size, which means two spikes on both sides of the part.

During processing, it is necessary to select a groove or a quarter in the sides of the workpieces. This is necessary to install glass or insert panels if solid wood was chosen as the door manufacturing option. This work can be done using a manual electric milling cutter. A cutter of the corresponding profile is inserted into the tool and a selection is made on the side indicated in the diagram.


The groove in the blanks is cut with a milling cutter

Details for the door frame should contain a quarter, thanks to which the canvas can close the opening. It is also made by a milling cutter, setting the depth and width of the sample. The size of the quarter should be based on the thickness of the door leaf. You need to add 1 mm to it for a better rebate. The depth of the quarter must be at least 10 mm.

Fabric pre-assembly

When the frame parts are processed and the places for fasteners are sawn down, a preliminary assembly of the interior door leaf can be carried out with your own hands. This operation will allow you to check the correctness of the markup and sawing of all elements. Assemble the structure dry, which means without the use of glue. If the type of connection was chosen for confirmations, then they will simply need to be baited without performing a tight twist.

When all the parts are assembled and fastened, check the width and length of the door leaf. If deviations from the drawing are found, then it is necessary to adjust the parts. After finishing, the product is reassembled and inspected. If all parameters are met, you can proceed to the next step.

Marking and making cuts

Separately, mention should be made of the marking of parts and the execution of cuts. This is a step-by-step process, where an error can result in a rework of the entire product and damaged material. Therefore, all lines drawn with a pencil should be made only after checking the size. Yes, and the markup itself before starting sawing should be checked with the drawing.


When marking, you must strictly adhere to the dimensions

When marking, you can add 1 mm to fit. In this case, even with uneven sawing off of the workpiece, it will be possible to fix it painlessly. If everything works out the first time, then the extra millimeter can simply be removed with a planer. To transfer the drawn line to the other side of the bar, you should take a square and attach it right at this point. Since the part has an even angle of 90 degrees, the lines on all sides will exactly repeat the markup made at the very beginning.

If spikes and lugs are chosen as the connection, then you will have to make a complete markup of these elements. The place under the nest should be located strictly in the center. To calculate this data, you just need to divide the thickness of the bar by 2, and then mark the resulting number from any plane of the part. The size of the spike itself should be equal to 1/3 of the thickness of the workpiece. The width of the nest can be half a millimeter less than the width of the spike.

The eye should be carefully drilled strictly according to the markup, and then cleaned with a chisel. It is impossible to protrude beyond the edges of the lines, otherwise the connection will turn out to be weakened, and the structure will turn out to be fragile. According to the instructions, it is necessary to precisely fit the spiked connection, so a half-millimeter margin must be left.

Assembling the fabric and fitting fittings

When all connections are checked, and the dimensions exactly match those indicated in the drawing, the assembly of the door leaf begins. When studded, it is required to smear the plane of the studs with glue and inner surface nests. After that, the parts are inserted into each other, followed by padding with a mallet. If this procedure is performed with a hammer, then a small wooden block should be placed on the surface to be knocked out. In this way, damage to the assembled product can be avoided.

After assembling all the parts, there should be no gaps at the joints. If they are, then you should once again knock out this place. The ideal option would be to pull the canvas with wyms. In their absence, you can install on the board metal corner, measure the width of the canvas from it, add 3-4 cm to this size and fix the other corner. You need three boards on which the door fits. A wedge is inserted into the gap between the bar of the canvas and the corner and is knocked out until the cracks completely disappear.


The door is assembled until the cracks disappear.

When the door is assembled, the cladding is attached to its surface. First, the sheets are cut to the size of the frame and then laid on it. Fastening is done with glue. Additionally, nails can be used. This operation must be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to damage the surface of the cladding, especially if it has a top coat.

Before laying the second sheet with reverse side the interior door is installed filler. To do this, foam or cardboard honeycombs are cut to the size of the free internal space between the details of the web. A tight fit will ensure the integrity of the future door. Next, the second sheet of cladding is laid and the canvas gets its finished look.


In order for the door to open, hinges must be installed. They are located at a distance of 20 cm from the edges of the door. Marking is done with a finely sharpened pencil. The nest must be chosen with a chisel strictly along the inside of the line, without protruding beyond it. The hinges in the seats must sit without gaps.. When the nest is ready and checked, the part is fastened with self-tapping screws or screws included in the kit. Read more about this in the article “Installing hinges on the door”.


Door hinges are fixed with self-tapping screws or screws

Another element of the interior door is the handle. A lock is often inserted into it, which makes it possible to lock the room if necessary.


The hole for the lock is made with a drill

The center of the handle should be 1 meter from the floor. through hole for the lock is drilled with a drill. seat also cleaned with a chisel. After the tie-in of the lock is completed, there should be no gaps left. Read more about installing a handle on an interior door.

Installation of glass in the opening

If the interior door involves the presence of glazing, then it is necessary to prepare a glass cutter and select the desired type of glass. This element is inserted into a quarter, which is selected along the entire inner perimeter of the door. The glass is cut 2 mm smaller than the size of its installation space.


Glass cutting is done with a glass cutter

If, after working with a glass cutter, the sheet has irregularities, they must be removed. For this you can use pliers. With a large residue (from 2 mm), another cut line should be drawn. This will make it easier and better to remove the excess. When the procedure is completed, you need to process the edges of the glass with sandpaper.

Next, the glass is installed in a quarter of the door. Fastening is done with a decorative layout, which is nailed with small nails. This ensures the possibility of quick repair in case of damage to the installed glass.

Finishing the interior door

Assembled door if not sheathed laminated chipboard, needs to be carried out finishing works. They can be of the following types:

  • Coloring;
  • Toning;
  • Lamination.

Depending on the selected type of finish, appropriate operations are required.

Coloring

Before you paint the surface of the door leaf, you need to prepare it. And the first thing to do is to completely sand it. An electric grinder is ideal for this purpose. The tape for it should be taken not too abrasive so that there are no small scratches on the surface. Work is required in the direction of fiber growth. Perpendicular grinding is allowed only if it is necessary to level the surface and as a rough cut.


Before painting the door, its surface must be sanded.

If there are chips or dents on the door, they should be puttied. The color of the putty must be selected according to the shade of the wood from which the canvas is made.. So, with subsequent painting, this place will not stand out against the general background. After applying the putty, you need to let it dry and sand it again.


Defects wooden surface removed with putty

Next, you need to clean the surface of dust and only then proceed to painting. To apply the material, brushes, rollers or paint sprayers are used. The latter option allows you to complete the job quickly and with the least paint consumption. During staining, there should be no streaks on the surface. They need to be removed. To get a quality painted door, you need to apply two or three coats of paint..


It is necessary to paint the door in 3 layers

Toning

Unlike painting, door tinting involves the subsequent application of varnish. On the prepared surface, you need to apply a tinting material, which can serve as:

  • stain;
  • Mordant;
  • Acrylic paint.

Any of the material types will give the wood a new color, leaving the texture open. The stain is applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. If necessary, the procedure is repeated after the material has completely dried.


As a tinting material, stains, mordants or paints are used.

When the desired shade is reached, the canvas is varnished. More than three coats must be applied to achieve a glossy finish. In addition, each stage involves grinding with a fine emery tape. This will remove the raised pile and make the surface smooth.

lamination

alternative paintwork materials is the use of films and veneer. The bonding of these materials is called lamination. For home production the best option will cold way gluing.

The surface of the interior door must be prepared in the same way as in the case of painting or tinting. The film or veneer is cut to the size of the door leaf, making an allowance of up to 3 cm. Then, starting from one edge, the material is glued. If a self-adhesive film is used, then the protective paper is gradually removed from it as it is glued to the surface of the door.


Self-adhesive film is used for door lamination

The veneer is applied to the glue, which is pre-lubricated with the canvas. Smooth the material from the middle to the edges. So it will be easier to remove the air that has fallen under it. If the bubble cannot be expelled, then it can be carefully pierced with a needle. This place needs to be pressed strongly so that the adhesive layer can connect the surface of the door and the veneer. Excess material at the edges is carefully trimmed with a knife.


Excess film is removed with a knife.