Do-it-yourself decoration of the bath inside with a clapboard: step-by-step decoration of the bath with photo instructions. Interior decoration of the bath: how to create a zone of comfort and coziness Steam room wall decoration

Baths in our time, in addition to wood, are built from different materials- it can be, for example, a brick or gas silicate blocks. Nevertheless, the traditional material for the construction and decoration of baths was and remains natural wood. Only she, thanks to her natural properties, is able to create a favorable microclimate in these specific rooms. Therefore, we can safely say that there is simply no reasonable alternative to this material for lining bath rooms.

Finishing a bath inside with a clapboard with your own hands is a completely doable operation, accessible even for a novice builder, if you know the sequence of work and follow the technological recommendations. There are, of course, their own peculiarities, nuances and subtleties associated both with the specifics of bath rooms, which must be borne in mind when choosing high-quality material and during installation work.

The choice of wooden lining for lining the bath inside

Wood intended for finishing bath rooms must endure conditions of high humidity, frequent and sudden changes in temperature. Therefore, when choosing a material for such purposes, it is necessary to rely on certain criteria, such as the type of wood, the type of board and the type of lining according to the shape of the profile.

For wall cladding, lining made of both coniferous and hardwood wood can be used, and the choice of material largely depends on which particular bath room it will be used in. For example, for a steam sauna or a Russian bath, hardwood is most often used, since when heated, it does not produce resinous secretions, which can easily be burned.

So, the most popular species for finishing bath rooms are cedar, alder, oak, ash, linden, as well as exotic wood of African abashi.

Illustration	Brief description of material properties
	Linden. Experts consider this material to be the most suitable for sheathing the walls of the steam room, so it is he who is most often used for this purpose. Linden has a porous structure, which means it has a low density, so the wood does not overheat at high temperatures in the steam room. Possessing therapeutic essential oils in its composition, when heated, wood releases them into the air, which is good for the prevention of respiratory diseases. Linden wood has practically no knots, has pleasant soft shades without sharp transitions. When the material is used in conditions of high humidity, this wood does not change color and aroma for a very long time. However, the porosity of linden is not only its advantage, but also its disadvantage, as it absorbs moisture well. Therefore, the room, lined with linden clapboard, must be equipped with good ventilation and left for airing after completion of water procedures.
	Aspen has a hard wood, but it is well processed. Due to the density of the structure, it is resistant to steam penetration, that is, a well-sanded surface does not absorb moisture. If the raw materials for the lining were properly prepared, then such a finish will be durable, since pests will not be afraid of it, and under the influence of moisture, the wood will become stronger. Aspen has healing properties and good energy, it raises the tone, relieves fatigue and headaches, and also helps to boost immunity. In addition, this wood has antiseptic properties, so earlier wells were built from aspen logs, the water in them did not become cloudy and did not bloom, remaining crystal clear for many decades. Many craftsmen choose aspen lining for lining the steam room because of its resistance to high temperatures and moisture.
	Alder has a pleasant golden-orange, and sometimes pink color, which seems to radiate warmth. According to its characteristics, this wood is excellent for facing the surfaces of both dry and wet bath rooms. Alder does not require antiseptic treatment, as its wood contains antibacterial substances. Due to the same property, bacteria, mold, insects do not start in it. Alder has general strengthening properties and has a beneficial effect on human health. From the technical characteristics, low thermal conductivity and high water resistance of wood can be distinguished, so it does not deform and practically does not change its geometry at any temperature. Properly harvested alder is not subject to decay, therefore, like aspen, it was used for the construction of log cabins for wells.
	Cedar- this is probably the ideal wood for cladding bath rooms, but it is rather infrequently chosen for this purpose only for the reason that products from it have a rather high price. Cedar has bactericidal properties, that is, it is able to purify indoor air, as well as antiseptic qualities, which makes its service life quite long, even in a steam room. Cedar lining has a reddish-pink hue, which gives the interior a rich, respectable appearance. The cedar has a pleasant aroma and such positive qualities as high strength and moisture resistance.
	Larch it has high hardness and brittleness, therefore, certain skills are required to install a lining made from it, since the board can split. When heated, larch emits a pleasant aroma and, despite the fact that it belongs to coniferous species, emits a minimum amount of resinous substances and does not overheat. Wood is not afraid of moisture and only becomes stronger over time, but without additional processing it quickly loses its natural color. Due to its inherent characteristics, larch is suitable not only for wall and ceiling cladding, but also for arranging the floor in the bath. In addition, this material is used not only for internal, but also for external wall cladding.
	Hemlock or Hemlock is a Canadian coniferous evergreen tree. Lining made from it is in constant demand, since hemlock wood is resistant to aggressive factors, such as moisture and temperature changes - it does not deform and does not rot. Thanks to these qualities, this material is widely used even in shipbuilding, as well as for facade decoration and the construction of gazebos. The structure of the hemlock has a moderate hardness and rigidity, therefore it is resistant to mechanical stress. Wood does not overheat, so hemlock lining is well suited for wall cladding in a steam bath. Hemlock is also suitable for this room because its wood contains essential oils used in medicine and the perfume industry, and when heated in a steam room, these substances enter the air, aromatizing and disinfecting it. The texture of the wood has a uniform pattern and color, but its shades can vary from light gray to light brown.
	Abashi- This is an African oak, which can have a height of 40 and a thickness of up to 3 meters. Its wood can be yellow, straw or light cream in color. The advantages of this material for lining bath rooms include its qualities such as low thermal conductivity and density, ease of processing, high strength, resistance to deformation processes, absence of knots and other defects, aesthetic and noble appearance. The biggest drawback of this finishing material can be called a very high price and a small assortment of lining on the Russian market.
	Pine- this is the most popular type of wood used for finishing bath rooms, due to its maximum availability. This lining is very widely used for cladding rooms in the bath. However, it should be noted that when heated, pine begins to actively release not only essential oils, but also resinous substances that can cause burns. Therefore, it is recommended to use pine lining for a washing room, dressing room or rest room, that is, where the air temperature is relatively moderate. Pine is able to create a healthy microclimate in the room, emitting the aroma of the forest, and also maintain a normal level of humidity. The lining has an aesthetic appearance and a long service life in rooms with normal humidity, which is estimated at up to 50 years. Affordable price and positive characteristics of pine wood make it the most demanded in comparison with other materials of this series. The disadvantages of lining can be called its relative hygroscopicity and low resistance to temperature extremes, which leads to deformation processes in the boards. In addition, fungus in the form of bluish spots may appear in the wood structure. That is why it is not recommended to use pine lining for finishing a steam room.
	Oak has always been famous for its strength and density of wood, characterized by a high content of tannins. The lining made of this material will not only create an aesthetic and rich interior in the bath room, but will also fill its air with ethereal substances that suppress pathogenic microflora. Oak wood is resistant to mold and decay processes, has high moisture resistance and is practically inert to very high and low temperatures. Therefore, an oak board is perfect for finishing both a steam room and any other bath rooms. The color palette of this lining is very diverse and depends on many factors, in particular on the place where the tree grows. The overall color can vary from light milky to dark brown.

Clapboard classification

All wooden lining divided into classes, depending on its quality. There are certain criteria by which they are determined.

• "Prima", "Extra" or "Premium" is the highest class facing material, so it differs most best quality from the entire line of similar finishes. The wood selected for the manufacture of extra-class lining should not have knots, black and blue spots and stripes, as well as other flaws. The board should be distinguished by a monochromatic shade and an even textured pattern.
• Class "A" (first grade) - such a lining is also considered a high-quality finishing material. However, minor flaws are allowed on it - these are knots with a frequency of no more than one piece per one and a half running meters boards.
• Class "B" (second grade) - this version of the lining is already of lower quality, since the presence of a resin pocket on the boards is allowed, no more than 2 cracks, slight mechanical damage, and the number of knots increases to four per one and a half running meters.
• Class "C" (third grade) - is the most affordable finishing material of this type, which may have various damages. It is unacceptable to use such natural lining for finishing any bath rooms, since the service life of such boards, in conditions of high humidity and temperature changes, will be very short. In this case, the owners will soon have to dismantle the old cladding, and then acquire high-quality material and refinish.

Standard lining parameters

You should never neglect the norms prescribed by the current GOSTs, which are designed to ensure human safety, as well as the longest possible operation of the material used. The norms are based on the study of the characteristics of wood and on certain calculations of the impact of aggressive external factors on it.

According to the established standards, for facing the walls of the bath rooms, the thickness of the lining boards should be from 12 to 25 mm. The use of thinner boards of material, given the operating conditions, would be unwise. The main parameters of lining are established in several regulatory documents, which include:

• GOST 8486-86 "Sawn softwood".
• GOST 8242-88 "Profile parts made of wood for construction". This standard establishes the dimensions of the lining, which varies in width from 45 to 120 mm, and in thickness from 13 to 16 mm. Deviation tolerances are also established: in thickness and width no more than 1 mm, and in straightness - a deviation of no more than 3 mm per 1000 mm of length.
• DIN 68126/86 is a European industrial standard.

These documents do not regulate the length of the board. But in practice, it usually ranges from 2000 to 6000 mm, which is explained by the convenience of packaging, transportation and installation.

Varieties of lining according to the profile

There are a lot of different lining profiles, but the most used are those shown in the illustration below. It would be more accurate to say that the relief that such boards form when sheathing a wall is in fashion today.

For example, today it is rare to find facades or walls of rooms decorated with clapboard, shown in the following illustration. But, one way or another, these options were also in vogue (and some will like it now), and they were milled individually.

It is clear that such profiles are more complex in execution, which predetermines the high price of such "piece" products. Therefore, today, consumers most often choose standards produced on an industrial scale.

According to statistics, the most popular model of facing material for interior work, in particular, for cladding the walls of a bath, is the so-called "evrovonka". From other types of lining, this version of the boards is distinguished by its higher quality, deep connecting grooves, the presence of a special anti-deformation ventilation gap, and “solid” dimensions in height and width.

Although lining the walls with clapboard is a fairly simple and understandable process, but, as with the installation of any other material, there are some nuances in such work, which are best known in advance.

Prices for lining

• When the lining is calculated for lining the internal surfaces of the bath, it is also necessary to take into account the mandatory stock. The sum of the areas of all surfaces to be finished must be divided by the area of ​​​​one panel (this parameter is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer). The resulting number of panels must be increased by another 15÷20% - this will become a reserve for inevitable waste when cutting and fitting the material.
• When sheathing steam rooms and washing rooms, that is, those where the surfaces will be in direct contact with water, the boards are fixed on the walls vertically or diagonally, in order to prevent moisture from entering the connecting grooves. In the dressing room or rest room, the lining can be fixed in any orientation, as the owner of this bath prefers.
• The frame of the crate for lining, fixed in the bathhouse, must be made of wooden beams. Completely unsuitable for this purpose. metallic profile or other material.

• Fixing the lining on the crate is done with nails, 15 ÷ 20 mm long, which must be skillfully driven into the groove of the lock. A simple, but careless movement can easily damage the surface of the board or the integrity of the lock connection. Another mounting option involves the use of clamps, which are put on the bottom shelf of the connecting groove of the board, and through it a nail or self-tapping screw is driven (screwed) into the frame guide.

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Processing lining with protective equipment

No matter how resistant wood is to moisture, it is still recommended to protect it from aggressive environmental influences. Today there are many various means, which will create a protective coating and will not adversely affect the health of people taking water and steam procedures. Here it is immediately necessary to clarify that for this purpose it will be necessary to purchase specially designed solutions designed for operation under certain conditions.

In the steam room, you cannot use any materials of your choice for surface treatment. Many of the protective coatings clog the pores of the wood, preventing it from “breathing”, and are also unable to withstand high temperatures and moisture. In addition, when heated, some formulations are capable of releasing toxic fumes and unpleasant odors which may be hazardous to human health.

Specialized ones will not only prevent damage to wood by putrefactive processes and the appearance of harmful insects, but will also facilitate sanitary and hygienic operations for mandatory regular cleaning of premises. In addition, protective agents will help preserve the original color and quality of wood.

Previously, natural wax, hemp or linseed oil were used to process lining boards. Today, experts consider the most effective special materials manufactured by Finnish and Russian manufacturers.

Acrylic varnish prices

acrylic lacquer

• For example, foreign and Russian companies offer acrylic-based varnish to protect wood used in steam rooms. This solution creates a protective film on the surface that repels water falling on it, capable of withstanding the influence of temperatures of 100 ÷ 120 degrees, and also perfectly resisting the appearance of mold and fungus. This composition is applied at a positive temperature, not lower than five degrees, on a well-polished lining cleaned from dust and dirt.

When carrying out work, the wood must be dry, and the acrylic composition is applied to it in two layers. If a colored varnish is chosen, then 20% of water from the total volume of the solution is usually added to it. Colorless varnish, as a rule, is not diluted.

• Domestic manufacturers produce compositions in the form of a colorless water-based varnish and wax. This composition creates a water-repellent film, extending the life of the bath lining. Among the components of such protective agent also includes antiseptic substances that resist mold and mildew. Solutions are an environmentally friendly material that does not emit toxic fumes at elevated temperatures. Experts recommend treating the wooden walls of the rest room and the dressing room with matte or semi-matt water-based varnish.

• The craftsmen did not refuse to protect the lining for the bath with the help of linseed or other oil of vegetable origin, as it impregnates the wood structure well, creating a water-repellent layer. This type of treatment is especially well suited for wood species with high porosity. Before applying the oil, the lining is cleaned of dust, then the composition is heated to 50 ÷ 60 degrees. From 4 to 6 layers are applied to the surface of the wood, and when each layer dries, the wood is cleaned with sandpaper. Linseed oil can be used neat or tar or wax is added to it, which increase the effectiveness of the coating and prolong the original condition of the product. Such impregnation of wood, taking into account the operating conditions in an aggressive environment, is recommended to be done once every 3-4 years.

Heaters for a bath under lining

As a rule, internal in order to preserve the heat received during the heating of the bath. However, not all insulation materials are suitable for baths and saunas, as they are not suitable for use in a sufficiently aggressive humid environment.

So, before purchasing a heater, it is necessary to clarify which thermal insulation materials can be used for. When choosing a heater, you should pay attention to the following criteria, which it must meet:

• Ecological cleanliness, that is, the absence of toxic substances in the composition of the insulation.
• Heat resistance, ensuring the fire safety of the room.
• Low hygroscopicity, that is, the material should not absorb moisture.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• Resistance of the material structure to elevated operating temperatures.

The table below shows several heaters that are well suited for their qualities for thermal insulation of bath walls:

Illustration	Characteristic features of heaters
	Mineral wool - this insulation can be called traditional for installation in the insulating "pie" of the walls of the bath. However, it should be recalled that phenol-formaldehyde resins are used in the production of this material, which are a binder for cotton wool fibers. Resins, with increasing temperatures in the premises, can begin to release toxic substances that can cause irreparable harm to health. Therefore, instead of healing, a bath can bring a decrease in immunity, as well as a general weakening of the body. Manufacturer's certificates must state that the presence of these substances does not exceed sanitary norms given in the GOST standards. Do not purchase goods of unknown brands - no one knows how the body of each person will react to this. The choice should be made in favor of basalt insulation from leading companies, and, in the operating recommendations, the possibility of using the material specifically for bath conditions should be stipulated. Such mineral wool insulation is inherently hydrophobic, and some products are produced with a foil reflective layer already applied. A striking example of a special basalt-based insulation is ROCKWOOL Sauna Butts, shown in the illustration.
	The very concept of "glass wool" does not fit well with the conditions of the bath. However, this is not at all the case when it comes to high-quality URSA PUREONE insulation. No complaints about environmental cleanliness have been noted for this thermal insulation yet. The material belongs to a new generation product, and chemically neutral acrylic is used as a binder for the fibers, which does not enter into chemical reactions with any other substances, and therefore does not emit substances harmful to humans even under the most adverse operating conditions. In confirmation of this fact, we can cite the EUCEB certificate, which indicates the absolute environmental friendliness of the insulation. This material is M1 Eurofins certified by EcoStandard group.
	Foil polyurethane foam is a modern material that is used to insulate any buildings, as it has excellent operational and thermal characteristics. "SPU Sauna-Satu" is a thermal insulation material from a Finnish manufacturer, which is excellent for insulating walls built of wood, brick, silicate or concrete blocks, as well as other materials. Polyurethane foam panels have a double-sided foil coating and have numerous positive qualities. These include environmental safety, the absolute absence of hygroscopicity (that is, the material does not absorb moisture at all), low thermal conductivity, almost half that of mineral wool. In addition, the material does not need a vapor barrier, as it has an external coating of aluminum foil. This completely eliminates the possibility of mold or other microflora appearing on its surface. Due to the small thickness of the insulation, it is easy to fix a wooden crate on top of it for mounting the lining. Rigidity and low mass of mats allow them to be glued to a wall built of any material without the use of a crate. If necessary, the foil on one side of the mat can be removed and ceramic tiles can be glued directly onto the polyurethane foam. Due to the ease of installation of SPU Sauna-Satu, the warming of the bath can be carried out extremely quickly.
	Peat blocks are an environmentally friendly material made from crushed sawdust, small chips, straw and other natural components, which are mixed into a homogeneous composition with crushed and moistened peat. From the resulting mass, insulation blocks are molded and pressed, which have low thermal conductivity and a high degree of sound absorption. The advantage of this insulation can be called its ability to "breathe". Peat blocks absorb moisture well and also give it away without any damage to themselves, that is, they maintain an optimal balance of air humidity in the room. The material belongs to the medium combustibility group (G2), has bacteriostatic qualities (do not allow any microorganisms to develop).
	Foam glass is a modern durable and environmentally friendly material that does not lose its properties throughout the entire period of operation. The blocks have a stable shape and absolute incombustibility, they are distinguished by lightness, chemical inertness, water and heat resistance, high strength, as well as excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. This heat insulator has few drawbacks, but they can be significant, since they include a high price and low impact strength, that is, fragility, so the plates must be handled carefully. In connection with the last "minus" of the material, some manufacturers cover the plates on both sides with a special reinforcing layer.

So, the conclusion is as follows - the insulation should make the bath rooms comfortable for taking water procedures, but if the wrong choice is made, it can not only spoil the walls of the building, but also bring significant harm to people's health. Therefore, it is very important to acquire not only high-quality wall paneling for finishing the bath, but also material for insulation suitable for these specific conditions.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

Warming and finishing with clapboard of the internal walls of the bath

Further, for example, the insulation of the walls of the bath will be presented, which are then sheathed with natural clapboard. In order to be able to choose the appropriate option, it is worth considering the two most optimal ones available for independent implementation.

Finishing the bath with preliminary insulation with polyurethane foam thermal insulation "SPU Sauna-Satu"

Illustration
	In the first case, the insulation is made by the Finnish insulation "SPU Sauna-Satu". It is installed to the processed antiseptic composition and dried wall, after holding it ventilation ducts.
	The slabs are installed in rows from floor to ceiling according to the principle of brickwork, that is, the vertical seams between the slabs of each of the rows should not coincide with each other, go “in a run”. Before installing the first row on the floor, along the wall, as well as vertically, along the corner of the room, a mounting foam is applied with a construction gun, which has a small volumetric expansion. In addition, the foam is applied to the vertical joints of the plates, and will serve as both an adhesive and a sealant for the insulation.
	Further, on each installed row, before laying the next one, mounting foam is also applied, that is, the rows must be glued together with a polyurethane foam composition.
	Additionally, the plates are fixed to the wall with dowels or self-tapping screws. The head of the fasteners must be recessed into the insulation.
	Windows are cut out for ventilation pipes. After installing the insulation to the wall, the gap between it and the ventilation duct is filled with mounting foam.
	A heater is also installed along the ventilation pipes, and the gaps formed between them are again filled with mounting foam.
	The insulation installed on the wall should form an almost integral, monolithic coating, since all the mating of the plates will be made using mounting foam.
	In the next step, the insulation is fixed to the ceiling, on which a crate of timber with a section of 50 × 50 or 70 × 70 mm is pre-arranged. The beam must be positioned so that the junction of the two plates to be joined lies on it. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the location of the ventilation ducts, if they are equipped on the ceiling. Before mounting each insulation block, mounting foam is applied to it, with which it takes root to the crate beam. We must not forget that the plates are also "planted" on the foam between themselves.
	Then, the edges of the insulation plate are additionally fixed to the beam with two self-tapping screws.
	Having fixed one row of foil insulation, mounting foam is again applied on its end side, and then the second row of material is mounted and fixed.
	After installing each of the plates, it is additionally fixed on the rails of the battens with self-tapping screws.
	In the event that a chimney pipe from the furnace passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a thermally insulated penetration around it - usually a metal box that is filled with heat-resistant material. Expanded clay can be used as such an insulator. It is poured into a box mounted in the ceiling. The gaps inside this penetration, that is, between the pipe and the circumference of the opening through which it passes, can be sealed with a heat-resistant sealant.
	When the room is completely sheathed with heat-insulating material, all unsealed joints of the plates (usually they remain along the line where the walls intersect with the ceiling) are foamed.
	In addition, the gaps around all the elements passed through the insulation are filled with foam, since the coating must become absolutely tight.
	When the foam expands and completely hardens, its protruding excess must be cut off. This process should be carried out without fail, even in those places where the foam appeared, it would seem, slightly, otherwise these remaining influxes may violate the overall waterproofing.
	The next step, without exception, all the joints between the plates, the foamed gaps around the pipes, as well as the hats of the screwed screws on the walls and on the ceiling, are sealed with moisture-resistant foil tape. It should fit snugly against the aluminum surface of the insulation.
	If it is planned to cover the lower part of the wall with ceramic tiles, then it is necessary to remove the aluminum coating from the insulation. To do this, a line is marked according to the level at the level of the upper edge of the planned tiled "belt", then, without much pressure, a sharp knife is drawn along it.
	Then, the cut metal film is carefully picked up with the tip of a knife and, slowly, peeled off and separated from the insulation board.
	Further, the insulation material, the floor, and especially the joint between them, is covered with a waterproofing composition, for example, liquid rubber. While the waterproofing has not yet hardened, a reinforcing material is glued onto it with a strip, the width of which should be such that it covers the lower part of the wall and the floor by 150 ÷ ​​170 mm and is well pressed to the joint between them. If necessary, that is, if the reinforcing mesh is not immediately recessed into the waterproofing, another layer is applied on top of it.
	After the waterproofing material has dried, on top of it, a waterproof adhesive is mounted ceramic tile.
	The marking of the insulated surface is carried out using a building level with a ruler and a black marker, since it will not damage the aluminum coating, and its trace will be clearly visible on the surface. The guide battens for lining are installed at a distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
	Then, along the marked lines, with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels, which are screwed in in increments of 200 ÷ 300 mm, the laths of the crate are fixed, with a section of 15 × 50 or 20 × 50 mm. In this case, it is planned to install the lining horizontally, so the elements of the crate are fixed vertically to the wall. To the ceiling, the slats are fixed perpendicular to the frame beam, on which the insulation is fixed.
	The next step is the lining of the ceiling. The boards are assembled with the help of tongue-and-groove joints. If necessary, since the spike can enter the groove with resistance, the lining can be slightly knocked out with a hammer by attaching an auxiliary rail to it.
	In this example, an electric nail gun is used to fix the lining. It is very convenient to work with them, and the process of fixing the lining boards is quite fast.
	After the ceiling sheathing is completed, they move on to lining the walls with clapboard. In this case, the horizontal arrangement of the lining boards a was chosen, which is typical for Finnish saunas. However, as mentioned above, the best option, especially for Russian baths, is the vertical orientation of the boards, in order to avoid the penetration of moisture under the cladding.

The second version of the cladding - using fiberglass insulation type "URSA PUREONE"

To insulate the walls of the bath, thermal insulation environmentally friendly material based on fiberglass - "URSA PUREONE" can be used. However, in this case, it will be necessary to cover the insulation layer with a vapor-tight material. For these purposes, foamed foil polyethylene is usually used, which covers the entire insulated surface.

How such a finish is carried out - step by step in the table below:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	This version of the insulation and cladding of the bath room takes place in a different order from the first considered cladding method, since other materials are used for it. The first stage of work consists in fixing the frame on the wall, previously cleaned, treated with a primer, well dried and marked for timber. The guides are installed in increments of 600 mm, so that the clear distance is, taking into account the width of the beam, approximately 560-580 mm. The beam is fastened with dowels, and the hats of these elements must be recessed flush with the wood. Then, between the vertically installed guides, a heater is laid. Here it is necessary to clarify that the cross section of the beam must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. The selected installation step of the guides allows you to tightly, without gaps, by surprise due to elasticity, securely install insulation mats with a width of 600 mm.
	Then, the laid insulation over its entire area is tightened with a vapor barrier material, which is often used as foam foil polyethylene with a thickness of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. The canvases of this material are nailed to wooden bars with staples, and then all their joints are sealed with waterproof foil tape.
	On top of the foil insulation, rails with a section of 20 × 40 mm and with a step of 400 ÷ 500 mm are fixed horizontally. Fastening is carried out with the help of self-tapping screws to vertically installed bars of the crate.
	When installing rails, their evenness is controlled using the building level, both horizontally and relative to the wall. Therefore, if necessary, fragments of plywood or thinner slats are placed under the slats in certain places in order to achieve a flat plane of the wall.
	When using wooden linings, the slats are fixed through them to the frame beam with longer self-tapping screws - 50 ÷ 60 mm.
	The lower rails should be fixed at a height of 30 ÷ 50 mm from the floor, so that it would be convenient to fix the lining to them later.
	Additional rails are fixed around window and door openings, as well as in corners, and they can be mounted vertically and horizontally, depending on the installation location.
	Next, the lining is installed. Facing start from the corner. The first board must be verified according to the building level, and its correct position can be marked on the horizontal rails with a simple pencil.
	This board is screwed to each of the laths of the crate with self-tapping screws in the corner area. To prevent the lining from cracking, it is recommended to pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw with a thinner drill.
	On the other hand, the board is attached to each rail through the clamp. It slides into the groove of the lining until it stops, and through the hole it is nailed to the rail with a small nail or staples hammered with a stapler. When hammering a nail into the hole of the kleimer, in order not to damage the edge of the board, pliers are used to grab the nail by the head and only after that they hit it with a hammer.
	In this photo, the kleimer and the driven nail are shown in a different projection in order to clearly see how the fixing process is carried out.
	The next lining is driven with a groove into the spike of the previous, already fixed board over the kleimers. Then, it is also fixed to the rails through the clamps installed in its groove.
	If the spike of the lining enters the groove with difficulty, then the board is carefully knocked out with a hammer, applying an additional piece of the rail so as not to damage the lock part.
	The result should be a flat (or with vertical "grooves", depending on the type of lining chosen) wooden wall.
	The next step is that all small slit-like gaps formed at the junctions of the planes are closed with fittings - these can be wooden corners or skirting boards. The accessories are fixed on top of the lining with small carnations or those from which the hats are removed.
	If, after mounting the cladding on the wall, it is decided to additionally tint it, then it is recommended to use a combined tinting protective composition for this purpose, which includes antiseptic components and a fire retardant.
	Such a composition will not only give the intended color and aesthetics to the mounted skin, but will also become a good protection against external influences and rapid ignition. The questions of the final decoration of the lining in the bath with appropriate impregnations or varnishes were described in detail above in the article.

Of course, in addition to these two demonstrated methods of thermal insulation of walls in a bathhouse, followed by clapboard cladding, there are others - it all depends on the specifics of the building and the heaters used. The main thing is that the optimal scheme of the insulating and finishing “pie” is observed, high-quality materials are selected taking into account their operational characteristics.

At the end of the publication - a training video from the company "TechnoNIKOL" on the insulation of the walls of the bath, followed by lining them with natural clapboard.

Video: proper insulation of the walls of the bath for lining - materials of the company "TechnoNIKOL"

After the construction of the bath body is completed, you should think about the interior decoration. This is perhaps the most important work, since it includes heat, hydro and vapor barriers that will ensure the proper functioning of the building. It depends on the interior decoration how comfortable your bath will be, and how pleasantly you will spend time in it.

It is very important to consider step by step each element of the work on the internal arrangement of the bath in general and the steam room in particular. Any mistake at this stage in the future can turn into an inconvenience that will be very difficult to correct.

Requirements for the insulation of the bath room

The most important quality of a steam room is the preservation of hot steam and heat inside the room for a long time. That is why thermal insulation is in the first place in the decoration. There are many methods for such work, but we will consider the simplest and most common, which are easy to do with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists.

When choosing materials for insulation, one should be guided by their safety at the usual high temperatures for a steam room, that is, fire resistance and resistance to sudden temperature changes. The most common materials are mineral wool as a heater and aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. They are highly reliable and easy to use.

Before you begin work on the insulation of the walls of the bath, you should carefully prepare the surface. Carefully inspect the walls and ceiling, remove gaps, knots, roughness. All wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, which will provide protection against fungus and mold.

By insulating and equipping the bath, you will get walls in the form of a so-called “sandwich”, consisting of layers alternating in a certain sequence: a waterproofing layer, a warming one, a vapor barrier, and, finally, an inner lining.

Preliminary preparation

As you know, the main thing in the Russian bath is a properly installed stove. It must be built before you start interior decoration. And in this case, it is better to turn to the help of a professional stove-setter, who will determine where the hearth should be, set the right direction of the taps and build the building.

Installing a traditional brick or stone stove will require special attention to features such as the soil on which the sauna is built, the materials used in the construction of the walls, the type of roof, and even climatic conditions terrain. To make your task much easier, you can turn to modern technologies. A huge selection of boilers and furnaces is presented on the construction markets and in specialized stores, which in their functionality are in no way inferior to the classic stone sauna stove, but in comparison, it is completely safe, and also economical and easy to use.

Such a heating device will not require special skills from you, you can install it yourself, or with the help of a specialist, and quite quickly and without subsequent cleaning of the accumulated construction debris. Manufacturers provide customers with a complete set of necessary equipment and additional devices.

After the stove is installed, install the electrical wiring, provide its insulation and the necessary conclusions, and then proceed directly to the interior decoration.

More about skin layers

Insulation of the walls of the bath, and especially the steam room, should begin with a layer that provides waterproofing. It will help to avoid condensation on the outer walls when in contact with hot air and constant temperature changes. Pay special attention to any possibility of dampness affecting the walls: the occurrence of mold and fungus not only adversely affects wooden surfaces, even rotting, but can also have a harmful effect on your health.

The most commonly used materials as a waterproofing material are foil or plastic film. Stretch evenly measured parts of the material from the roll, leaving allowances of about 10-15 cm, carefully stretch the film or sheet of foil to avoid tears and damage, and fix them with a construction stapler. At the joints of individual sheets there should be an overlap of 10-15 cm, which will not allow moisture from the outside to enter the gap and settle on the insulation layer.

After the waterproofing of the walls, floor and ceiling is completed and all possible gaps are closed, proceed with the installation of the heat-insulating layer. To begin with, sheets of clean, thoroughly dried paper are attached to the surface. In order to minimize the loss of hot air, the sheets should be fastened with a sufficiently large overlap.

After that, a prefabricated frame is installed on the insulated surface. For it, you will need wooden blocks with a section of 50 X 50 mm, properly impregnated with an antiseptic. The spacing between the bars must exactly match the width of the roll of material being used.

A few words about choice thermal insulation material. In the modern construction and repair market, you can find a lot of options for different properties, quality and price range. But until now, mineral wool is the most common and in demand. Synthetic soft plates are also gaining great popularity. These inorganic materials are durable, fireproof, do not absorb moisture and subsequently rot, and are also not of interest to small rodents and insects.

We install a heat and vapor barrier layer

The thickness of the layer of heat-insulating material directly depends on the design of the insulated surface. It should be noted that the floor of the bath, both wooden and concrete, is insulated according to a certain technology, and this work is laborious enough to dedicate a separate article to it. Now we are considering the insulation of the walls and ceiling of a traditional wooden bath.

The ceiling is subject to much more thorough insulation than the walls, so the layer of mineral wool on it should be twice as thick. This is due to the fact that the hot air in the steam room rises, and it is through the ceiling that the maximum heat loss occurs.

So, the frame previously made of beams is installed on the surface and carefully fastened with self-tapping screws or bushings. An even cut of insulating material is placed in the step between the bars. It should lie tightly, without free spaces and overlaps. The edges of the material are fixed with a construction stapler.

At the end of the laying of mineral wool, the time comes for the next stage - vapor barrier. Aluminum foil is most commonly used in this capacity, as it not only protects the insulation from steam and moisture, but also has reflective properties. Thanks to this quality, the foil creates the so-called “thermos effect” in the steam room, which keeps the heat inside the room for a long time.

So, for the installation of a vapor barrier layer, you will need:

• Aluminum foil in the required quantity;
• Thin slats for crates;
• Small wallpaper nails or a construction stapler;
• Tape or adhesive tape.

For vapor barrier, it is preferable to take foil with a thickness of 65 microns. It is an optimal material in terms of density and strength, which is easy to work with.

First of all, you should prepare the crate. Since the room of the bath and steam room is small, it will be easy to make the crate by stuffing the slats to the frame of the heat-insulating layer.

After that, sheets of foil are fixed to the crate using wallpaper nails or a stapler. At the same time, they should be well, but not too tight and carefully aligned. The overlap of the sheets on each other should not be more than 5 cm. Since the vapor barrier layer must be continuous, the sheets are connected at all joints with adhesive tape.

The main condition for the materials used is that they must be environmentally friendly, and when exposed to heat and moisture, they must not emit foreign chemical odors. That is why such common building materials as roofing felt, roofing material or glassine are not used in the interior decoration of the bath.

The inner lining of the steam room

After the “sandwich” of hydro, heat and vapor barrier is ready, we will proceed to the final stage - facing the walls and ceiling in the room using lining. Traditionally for sheathing is selected natural wood, predominantly hardwoods, such as linden, maple, aspen and alder. These materials are optimally suited in terms of quality, properties, and besides, their price is low. Softwood boards can release resin when exposed to heat, which is unpleasant for the skin. If, nevertheless, the coniferous aroma in the bath is very important for you, then choose cedar. It has high density and low resin content.

• The high density of wood will provide resistance to high humidity and protection from decay;
• The lowest content or complete absence of resins;
• The surface of the board must be absolutely smooth, without gaps and knots;
• The wood should have low thermal conductivity, that is, it should not heat up too much so as not to cause burns on the skin.

On the mounted layer of vapor barrier, install a frame of bars, which will hold the lining on itself. After that, fill the boards one by one, carefully adjusting them with a wooden mallet. For fixing, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, the main condition is that the hats must be deepened into the surface, so that later lovers of bathing procedures do not get hurt in the process.

Typically, the arrangement of the lining during sheathing is horizontal or vertical. The vertical method is simpler, it can be applied in any direction. When using the horizontal method, the lining should be stuffed from the bottom up to prevent water from entering the joints and grooves.

Most often, the lining is fastened flush. To do this, grooves are cut on each board, which overlap each other. This will provide a tighter fit, which means protection from moisture and temperature changes for the insulation layers and the inner surface of the lining.

Video about the interior decoration of the bath

After all the stages of arranging your bath are completed, the final touch remains - the creation of a comfortable and cozy interior. This is a great opportunity to show your imagination so that later your vacation will give you exceptional pleasure, and bath procedures will be not only aesthetic, but also health-improving. We wish you a light steam!

Finishing- the final stage of construction. It is wrong to include work on insulation in it. That's when it comes to facing floors, walls, ceilings, installing doors and windows, painting surfaces, then this can be called finishing. We need to somehow define terms if we want mutual understanding.

This article will focus mainly on interior decoration. steam rooms, but the finish will also be partially affected washing. If the site has thematic articles that reveal a particular issue on the subject, read it, there will surely be useful information, and for your convenience we have made links.

Steam room design

If it's about finishing options for finishing the steam room in the bath, then it would be worthwhile to classify them somehow and talk about them from different points of view. That is, you can talk separately about floors, walls, ceilings, doors and windows, or you can talk about materials. This is what we will try to cover below.

Floor

In the steam room, the floor comes in three versions:

• wood;
• tile;
• concrete.

The latter option is generally not intended to be walked on with bare feet, but in rubber slippers or on ladders, people walk on such a floor. We mention it here only for the sake of completeness. Although, if you paint it with something waterproof... In general, be that as it may, there are three working options for installing floors in the steam room. The wooden floor can be torrential or dry, you can read about the features of both options.

We will not touch on how to make this or that floor, we are only interested in what it is and what it looks like in the end.

poured wood floor- these are boards fixed on logs without docking. The gap between adjacent boards is up to 1 cm.

dry floor, on the contrary, is a very tightly joined boards, most often tongue-and-groove.

Either floor can be painted after installation is completed. acrylic varnish, or sauna floor impregnation. This will make the floorboards water repellent and the floor itself more durable.

Tile is also rightfully present in the steam room, because no one wants to change the floors every 5-7 years, as it should be with the pouring option, and the dry floor can also deteriorate - it’s still a tree, but it’s not particularly friendly with water (except species such as larch).

IMPORTANT! The main argument against a tiled floor is that you can slip on it. But there are enough tiles on sale that have a rough surface that prevents slipping.

Concrete… If the screed is made of high-quality concrete, then water will not harm it for a very long time. But it will also look like the decoration of the steam room in the bath was left halfway. To give some kind of completeness, we would advise painting it with paint for concrete pools - everything will somehow be prettier.

How to finish the walls and ceiling

We've united for a reason walls and ceiling into one category - they are usually made from the same material.

If regarding the floors there was still some variability in the choice of material for finishing them in the steam room, then for the walls and ceiling in a standard bath there is only one material - wood. And it is right. Firstly, it is a tradition, secondly, it is useful, and thirdly, it is pleasant and beautiful.

But in general, the design of the steam room in the bath, if we talk about the walls and ceiling, comes down to the choice lining. True, some leave walls made of timber or a log house uncovered, but this is if the timber or logs are thick enough or the winters are moderately frosty, which is why it is not cold in the steam room.

But there are a lot of types of lining so that those who do not want the standard option have plenty to choose from.

ATTENTION! To begin with, let's clarify that imitation of a bar and a blockhouse (imitation of a log house) are also varieties of lining. After all, this word means, in essence, just a profiled board, and it can have many different profiles.

euro and non-euro

First of all, it varies tenon-groove connection design. Such types of lining are built on the differences between them, such as standard (according to Soviet GOST), eurolining, "American".

Secondly, they may differ profile front side slats. The presence and absence of chamfers, the degree of rounding, various protrusions and depressions create all the variety of surfaces finished with these boards.

It is also worth taking into account the presence or absence of ventilation grooves on the back of the lamella. They were not in the Soviet standard, but they are needed, and eurolining has them.

ADVICE! For those who want to get creative with the interior decoration of the steam room in the bath, we can recommend combining several different profiles, for example, smooth with a chamfer or without a chamfer and one of the carved profiles.

You can read more about the types of lining and plating methods in this one.

Of course, there is also the decoration around the stove in the steam room of the bath, and it is made, in particular, from tiles - ceramic or natural stone. But we will talk about this in a separate chapter below.

Doors and windows

For doors and windows, the most important thing is not so much design as right choice wood.

After all plastic door you can’t put it in a steam room, unless glass, which are made for the sauna, of course (that is, with a healthy gap under the door, necessary for the ventilation of the sauna). But if the box is filed, then you can put a glass door in the Russian bath. And you won't have problems closing the doors.

But if the door is still made of wood, then high humidity will primarily affect change in the volume of wood, that is, it will change the dimensions of the doors. And they will periodically not fit into the opening.

Here, in order to avoid such problems, you need to choose a tree that is least deformed by moisture. And it's very affordable - it's a common Linden. By the way, it is worth making not only doors, but also shelves from it, and someone will prefer a fake lining. The properties of wood will be discussed below.

We separate inside the steam room

Since the buildings are made of different materials, the owners are interested in whether there is any difference in how to finish the steam room in the bath, say, from brick or foam concrete. Basically, there are no differences even at the level of the device of the insulation cake, let alone finishing especially does not depend on what the walls of your bath are built from.

However, options do exist.

Interior decoration in a bath from a bar or a log house

bar or log- a material that in itself has excellent decorative qualities, so there is no point in hiding it under the skin, unless it is arctic cold in your area, that is, if the thickness of the log or timber is enough to keep warm.

In this case, the main concern of the owner will be joint insulation between logs or beams, their sealing(which will be discussed separately). In addition, finishing works include protecting log walls from various misfortunes (fire, water, insects, fungi and bacteria) and identifying the decorative properties of wood - both are done using impregnation.

BUT! in the steam room protective measures limited to an antiseptic on the lower crowns and impregnation for the walls as a whole, which will protect them from water.

A well-sanded log has a beautiful "moire" pattern that can be made more visible with varnish or impregnation. There is a site on our website that talks about paints and varnishes acceptable for processing steam.

Finishing with clapboard in a bath of aerated concrete, foam concrete, brick, frame

Finishing the sauna steam room, built from the materials listed in the title, in the vast majority of cases will be reduced to sheathing clapboard. This is the easiest way to make the interior "wooden". In addition, the lining is convenient and available material, and the difference in profiles gives the owner the freedom to choose according to their tastes.

Baths not built of wood are accepted insulate. In this article, we will not describe the heat-insulating cake - you can read about it in this one on our website. However, spoilers: methods of heat-insulating finishing of a steam room in a bath made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. are the same. And lining is the final stage of this finishing.

The lining is attached to the counter-lattice. There are several ways to secure it inconspicuously. Previously, this was most often done with finishing nails through the groove, but this is hard work, especially when compared with the modern method of attaching to staples or nails using an air gun through clamps. As an option - you can mount on self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! Kleimers do not replace fastening with nails or staples, they only simplify it. Nice and handy addition.

Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining with the help of clamps:

Regarding the finishing of the steam room with a clapboard, it is worth saying one more thing: there are two mounting options - vertical and horizontal. Accordingly, the counter-lattice must run in a perpendicular direction.

Since we are talking about a humid and hot room, it is worth noting that vertical fastening of the lining is not optimal. Each individual lamella in this arrangement is moistened unevenly, which leads to stresses inside the wood. In the future, it may crack.

In the same time horizontal fastening makes the dampening of the lamellas more uniform. The main thing is not to forget when attaching that the groove should be on top, and the spike should enter it from below. Then the water will not flow into the castle.

In addition to what has been said, the described types of lining installation have another feature: vertical fastening visually makes the room appear taller and the horizontal lower.

Options for washing and steam rooms: materials

Let's briefly go through the materials suitable for finishing in the washing bath and steam room.

Wood

In the photo: finishing the steam room of the bath with a tree (lining)

For the floor, you can use more resistant rocks, for example, larch. Conifers should not be used because of the resin they contain, which flows out when the temperature rises. But on the floor, the temperature is usually low, so there are no restrictions.

However, it should be said that lindens and aspens low rates of resistance to decay and bioinfection (for example, by fungi). Therefore, we recommend that you still additionally protect the surfaces of this wood with impregnations and varnishes.

AT car wash there is no point in using a tree, unless it is a design decision. In this case, it is worth recommending just coniferous- They are more resistant to water.

A rock

An option for how to finish a steam room in a bath is stone tiles. Of course, we are talking only about partial finishing, for example, near the stove (more on that below).

What types of stone are best suited for wall decoration in a steam room? You will be surprised, but there are practically no limits th - the main thing is that it should not be rock salt, for example. But pink Himalayan salt is often used as an interior decoration. Of course, it will not dissolve as quickly as a soup pot, but it has the same composition as salt in a salt shaker.

The wall behind the stove, of course, heats up, but the stones are quite capable of enduring such temperatures without harming themselves. But the situation will change if you decide to overlay the stove with the same stone. The temperatures are different there. And you should focus on at least those stones, in the lining of which ready-made stoves are sold, for example, talcomagnesite .

Alternatively, you can trim part of the steam room not with smooth tiles, but with chopped ones. pebbles or cobblestones, which are mounted on the solution with the convex side up. It turns out pretty nice decor. As you can see, even street boulders can come in handy.

In the photo: the interior decoration of the steam room of the bath with stones around the stove

AT car wash stone can be used, but this is rarely done, because it is easier and cheaper to cover the walls and floor with finished ceramic tiles.

Tile

The tile in the steam room is used either on the floor or on the wall behind the stove. As for the floor, rough tiles behave best here, for example, metlakh. It can generally be recommended for wet rooms. But all varieties of smooth glazed tiles should not be considered as a floor covering for a steam room.

AT washing it is also better to use rough tiles on the floor, and for walls ... here, in general, you know better how sober visitors will wash in your washing room. If not really, then give up smooth tiles there, eliminating unnecessary opportunities to get injured.

In the photo: finishing the shower room of the bath inside with tiles

sealant

Special mention is made of such finishing material as sealant for a steam room in the bath.

Sealants in a steam room can only be used in two cases: if it is log bath and needs to seal the joints between the logs, as well as to seal the cracks in the logs themselves, and the second option is to seal the joints, for example, foam glass, if used as heat insulator.

In the first case, we can recommend special sealants for wood, which have a certain elasticity, because the tree tends to constantly change volume under the influence of moisture. In addition, it is worth asking the sellers which of the wood sealants withstand the temperature of the steam room well (name the numbers at which you are used to steaming).

We came across a report from one sauna owner who praised wood sealant. Perma Chink, which he used for seams and Check Mate to seal cracks. However, we cannot say with certainty that this was not promotional material.

As for the sealant for the heat insulator, then you need to take silicone without impurities, for example Ottoseal S 73.

Finishing around the stove

The space around the stove needs a special finish, for the reason that the proximity of the hot stove to the combustible material of the walls (the same lining) can lead to fire.

Refractory board for wall decoration when installing a sauna stove

Therefore, a heat-insulating material is usually placed on the wall, for example, minerite or superisol(mounting on ceramic bushings is desirable). To reflect heat, you can attach a sheet of stainless steel.

Tiles at the stove

If the walls are not made of wood, you can protect them with heat resistant tiles. Since tiles are used for lining stoves and fireplaces, you can find many varieties on sale, of which the seller will choose the right one for you.

Of course, stove tiles are more than suitable for wall decoration, but they can be more expensive, so it is worth measuring the heating temperature of an object located at the same distance that will separate your stove from the wall.

And one more thing - you need to take into account what is in the baths on personal plot in winter, with a long non-use, the temperature can be minus.

Some types of tiles are not designed for a sharp change in temperature when melting a bath - this issue should also be clarified with the seller. If you choose the wrong tile, it will crumble.

A photo

Finishing the steam room of the bath

Interior decoration steam room and washing room together

Finishing the steam room like a sauna inside

Finishing baths and steam rooms semi-antique

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We have many other interesting and informative materials on a variety of issues related to the bath. We recommend using it to search for the material of interest.

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The arrangement of the bath complex requires proper attention to the most insignificant nuances. The bath will turn into an ideal place to relax only after a thorough study of the theoretical part and the sequence of actions. And the work done with your own hands will only enhance the positive effect of receiving bath procedures.

Peculiarities

main feature Russian bath - wet steam. To create it, a certain humidity is maintained in the steam room. Humidity and steam balance is achieved by the complete absence of ventilation.

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms. The choice depends on personal preferences and is limited by financial capabilities. Features of interior decoration should traditionally be conducive to relaxation and spiritual pleasure. Therefore, the main thing in interior decoration is naturalness, convenience, minimalism.

For example, an excellent natural decor for a steam room is a natural frame. However Newest technologies construction involves the use of more modern methods of building a bath, so buildings often require finishing materials.

Additional materials should not adversely affect the basic requirements for a bath:

• steam room, shower room, rest room should have a beautiful and practical design;
• in the steam room, the presence of hot, but not burning steam is important;
• in the shower, both convenience and safety are important.

Properly selected materials will have a positive impact on the functional features of the bath. They will also affect the service life of the walls, floor, ceiling of the premises. It is important to choose materials in the right quality in accordance with the characteristics of the bath rooms.

For example, a steam room is distinguished by the constant presence of hot steam, which comes in a concentrated form and is quite dense. In addition, temperature fluctuations are noted in this room, as well as high humidity.

Many materials may not withstand such an extreme situation. However, the modern market offers a lot interesting options finishes, which the best way corresponds to the conditions of the steam room.

Features of finishing for the steam room should be as follows:

• have the ability to warm up and not accumulate heat;
• be moisture resistant;
• have good aesthetic characteristics;
• be resistant to fungus and mold;
• have the ability to purify the air.

The washing room involves not only washing, but also rest. Classic choice: wood, ceramic tiles. For washing, for example, coniferous wood is suitable. It has high water repellency. In addition, conifers have a beautiful appearance. The floor in this room should have anti-slip properties, as well as a comfortable temperature. Ceramic tiles can help in achieving the result.

As a reliable material for the vestibule and rest room, you can choose:

• porcelain stoneware;
• plaster;
• natural stone;
• wallpaper.

Greater aesthetics and practicality can be achieved by combining these finishes. In a bathhouse created with your own hands, it is possible to realize the most non-standard ideas. Choose the best types of finishes and their variations.

materials

Traditional interior decoration made of wood. The most suitable wooden base for finishing is lining.

These special finishing panels have the main advantages:

• good air circulation;
• zero condensate;
• beautiful appearance;
• simple installation;
• acceptable price.

The best starting material for lining are: larch, linden, alder, ash. Hardwood walls warm up faster, while the outside temperature of the walls remains comfortable for human skin.

Unlike softwoods, hardwoods do not emit resins, so they are considered harmless for steam room walls.

Pine lining, for example, is not at all suitable for a steam room. This base, when heated, will release toxic substances, and is also covered with resin, which can drip from walls, ceilings and cause burns.

Walls

Options for the type of finish "lining" differ in class. For example, class C has a low cost, suitable for finishing the walls of the vestibule. Class B is equipped with contrasting inclusions, cracks, and minor damage. Every 1.5 meters of the length of such a lining suggests the presence of a certain number of knots. The lining is suitable for the design of a rest room in a natural style, as well as for the vestibule.

Clapboard A class allows a few small cracks. However, it does not allow visible cores on the cut. At least one knot may be present per 1.5 meters of length. Class A lining is suitable for finishing the walls of some sections of the steam room.

Premium class lining has an excellent appearance but the appropriate price. The material can be used to veneer the walls of the steam room, rest room, washing room. Linden croaker will serve as an excellent wall decoration. The material does not allow overheating, does not emit resins. Linden panels will serve as high-quality sound insulation; they can be supplemented with an unedged board.

Basalt mineral wool, foil in the form of a film are used to vapor barrier the steam room. Both the walls and the ceiling are sheathed with foil for waterproofing. In order to isolate the stove in the steam room, it is permissible to use brick and salt for finishing.

Himalayan salt can be used in the bath. The salt bath combines the positive properties of a dry steam room and a treatment chamber, having a beneficial effect on a person.

Ceiling

Work related to finishing the ceiling begins with the installation of insulation in the attic. To prevent dust from entering the room, all the cracks between the boards must be covered. Brick chips and other loose options are used as insulation material.

The ceiling of the bath must withstand temperature loads. Finishing materials must withstand steam flows. You should not choose materials for finishing the ceiling that emit toxic substances when heated.

Therefore, it is not recommended to use materials such as plywood or chipboard from the inside - they contain sawdust, which are fire hazardous. Do not choose foam or polystyrene foam as insulation, polyethylene films they are afraid of high temperatures.

The building bases that are relevant for the ceiling of the bath are spruce or pine beams for beams and ceilings, not edged board or sheet piling for the first ceiling slab, class A or B linden lining - ceiling cladding inside. Aluminum foil, membrane films can be used for vapor barrier, membrane films for waterproofing. You can sheathe the steam room with linden with bast.

Linden croaker with bast - perfect option bath ceiling decoration in a natural style.

Floor

The best choice for the floor of all bath rooms, except for the steam room, is ceramic tiles. A block of tiles in the steam room may be present near the stove. A variety of modern collections without much difficulty will allow you to choose suitable design for a rest room or washing room. At the same time, tiling will be not only comfortable and aesthetic, but also practical and durable.

The floor of the steam room can be made of concrete or wood. Concrete or stone floors are cold. Therefore, wood is more often preferred. Wooden floors involve the preparation of a foundation on which beams are laid, logs are laid on top of them. The voids between the beams and lags are filled with insulation, which is chosen as expanded clay. A vapor barrier, waterproofing are laid on top of the insulation, then the finishing floor is equipped.

The concrete floor involves the arrangement of the base of crushed stone and clay. Roofing material serves as waterproofing and bituminous mastic. Insulation can be mineral wool or expanded clay. Finishing layer the floor is laid on a heat-insulating surface.

Design

For example, a steam room is considered the real heart of the bath, and therefore its interior should be alive, breathing. Synthetic materials are not allowed for use, especially near the stove. All items in the steam room must carry high-quality safety and natural purity.

Combinations of such finishing materials as wall paneling and stone, brick and granite slabs, block house will look especially designer in the steam room. In addition to beauty, the interior of the steam room should carry absolute safety. Therefore, the design in the steam room is often a compromise of choice. AT sauna steam room strict bends of the shelves, hidden light, a noble stone behind the stove are effective.

If a separate room for vacationers is made out in the bath, then all the attention in the design is on comfort. In the first place here is the same naturalness. Curtains with flounces and strict blinds on the windows are appropriate in the design. This bath room is usually compact, but bright.

However, there are no special design requirements. It is desirable that everything be decorated in fairly calm colors, conducive to a comfortable pastime.

A modern bath involves the arrangement of a washing room. It is allowed to install a full plumbing. Often this place is a pool of unimaginable shapes. For lack of space for arranging the pool, showers are arranged in the washing room. Stylish modern shower cabins and places will not take up much, and they will fit well into the interior of the bath. For showers, it is not even necessary to allocate a separate room.

The internal washing room in the Russian bath was also equipped around the stove, in the steam room. Washing items were simple basins and ladles. Taking into account the possibilities of modern materials, all this can be embodied in the current bath buildings.

The design of the bath can be interconnected with the personal perception of colors and their combinations. This feature depends on the physiological structure of the eyes, the state of the nerves, life experience. Psychologists say that for women, color has greater value than the form, and for men the content is more important. At the same time, a person has the ability to associate something with something all the time.

Bath design - the choice is purely individual, should be based only on a personal idea of ​​\u200b\u200brest.

How to do it yourself?

The basis of the Russian bath is a stove. The best materials for the heater - natural stones, bricks.

An edged board is allowed for floor installation, and the work itself includes several stages.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Getting rid of all debris, leveling the base.
2. Preparation of a concrete screed. This step can be skipped if the rough base is already sufficiently leveled. The base can be covered with sand.
3. Laying brick bases, which will be the support for the log. The height of the brick bases is equal to the height of the flooring.
4. Attaching the lag to the posts. Logs - boards with a section of 25x25 in increments of 100 cm.
5. Laying floor boards. Work should begin from the corner away from the room relative to the doorway. Self-tapping screws are suitable for fasteners. It is important to completely drown the cap in the wood when screwing in the cap.
6. The floor structure must include a drain.

After laying the floor, the walls are covered. For sheathing, a frame base is mounted. Frame material - timber or simple slats. Here it is important to take into account the level of load. For example, shelves are often attached to the walls, the slats will not withstand them. The direction of the frame base should be perpendicular to the lining.

Work steps guide:

1. Install the initial and last rail on the wall with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the guides is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the insulating materials.
2. Reinforce the waterproofing material over the frame.
3. Start working with insulation (for example, mineral wool).
4. Lay a layer of vapor barrier. Separate sheets of material are better fastened with a construction stapler.
5. Proceed with the arrangement of the lining, starting from the far side of the room.

After sheathing the verticals, proceed to the ceiling work. Lining is also allowed for the ceiling. As a frame, an edged board or timber is suitable. The pitch of the frame corresponds to the size of the insulation boards. The frame is installed similarly to the walls.

Step by step instructions:

1. Attach a layer of moisture-repellent base over the frame.
2. Next, fill the gaps with insulation (for example, basalt wool).
3. Align the tiles carefully.
4. On top of the insulation, mount a layer of vapor barrier using a construction stapler. Provide an overlap of 20-30 cm. Glue the joints with aluminum tape.
5. Proceed to the installation of lining.

Russian bath is an excellent way to get rid of all everyday problems and relax your body and soul. But how complete the bathing process will be, first of all, depends on the interior decoration of the bath, that is, how comfortable it is and meets all the wishes of the owner. Further, in the material with photos and videos, we will talk about how to make a bath inside, and what materials can be used for this.

First of all, it is worth saying that the process of interior decoration includes its complete arrangement, starting with the installation of vapor barrier and ending with the assembly and installation of furniture and decorative elements. If you have construction skills, you can do all the finishing work of the bath yourself, otherwise, it is better to use the services of professionals.

Decoration Materials

Any interior work in the bath begins with the selection of suitable materials. Finishing the bath with wood is one of the most common options, especially for the steam room. However, there are a number of restrictions for this room, so not every material can be used in it.

This is due to the operating conditions of the steam room - increased level humidity and high temperatures. In such a microclimate, a number of materials begin to release toxic substances that are harmful to health.

For finishing the steam room, you can not use the following types of materials:

1. Pine board, which, with increasing temperature, begins to release resins that can be dangerous to humans.
2. Chipboard or chipboard. In addition to the fact that at high humidity such materials begin to swell, they also begin to release toxins that are part of adhesive mixtures for their production.
3. Linoleum is also prone to release toxins, and is also prone to decay and deterioration.

But the decoration of the bath inside in the dressing room and the rest room may well be made of such materials. Especially comfortable will be the dressing room, trimmed pine boards. They will give the air in the room a light coniferous aroma and a real Russian flavor.

Optimally for wall decoration in the bath, it is in the steam room that larch and linden are suitable. Preferably, of course, larch, which is resistant to high temperatures and humidity, and is very durable. However, in the absence of such, linden wood can also be used.

It is better to use a tree for lining a bath with your own hands in the form of a lining. These lightweight panels can be attached conveniently, are breathable and can be easily replaced if damaged. And since a heater will be located under the lining layer, it can be considered an almost ideal material for finishing the steam room.

Bath decoration technology

Whatever materials the construction of the bath is made of, the finishing is carried out using approximately the same technology. Although it is still worth familiarizing yourself with the nuances of the process before starting work.

You need to move in the process of work from the bottom up, that is, from the floor to the ceiling.

The need for vapor barrier is directly related to what types of bath finishes were used. So, if inside the bath is sheathed with wood, then a vapor barrier is not needed, since the wood "breathes".

But if the bath is brick, then vapor barrier will be required if special ventilation holes are not provided. In any case, it is better to consult with experts on this issue.

Bathroom with ceramic tiles

The main advantage of the tile is its functionality and low cost. It is optimally suited for flooring in a dressing room or rest room. It is very durable, not affected by moisture and temperatures, does not collapse, and is easy to maintain. In addition, tiles allow you to create an original interior.

Tiles can be divided into two categories:

• with glaze, that is, enamelled;
• without glaze.

Ceramic bath tiles should be glazed, as they are better able to withstand fluctuations in temperature and humidity, unlike unglazed ones.

It is worth remembering that it is better to tile the floor in the bath with tiles with a rough textured surface, which will prevent slipping and avoid injury.

This rule also applies to wall cladding, as condensation accumulates on them. Be careful not to slip or fall.

Another point regarding the choice of tiles for the bath concerns its base. It is advisable to purchase a material with a smooth base that will fit snugly to the floor and will not cause mold to spread.

The shape of ceramic tiles for a bath can be square, rectangular, and complex geometric shapes. However, in the absence of much experience, it is better to stop at a rectangular tile, which is the easiest to lay.

Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to determine the exact amount needed for cladding. And you need to purchase 5-10% more material in case of scrap, trimming or damage.

The sequence of laying ceramic tiles is as follows:

1. The tile is soaked in water for several minutes, so that the glue sets better with its base. This minimizes the consumption of adhesive during installation.
2. Having determined the most noticeable corner in the room from the entrance, the tiles begin to be laid from there.
3. Glue is applied to each tile using a notched trowel. Having applied it to the floor, the edges of the tile are tapped with a mallet so that the glue is evenly distributed and excess air comes out.
4. Crosses will help to ensure uniform seams between the tiles.
5. As the glue dries, the crosses are removed. And when everything is completely dry and the tiles have set, the joints can be filled with the grout of your choice.

It is noteworthy that ceramic tiles look equally good on the floor and on the walls. The mosaic looks especially advantageous and original. If the tiles need to be cut when laying, then special tools will help to cope with this task.

The final stage of finishing the bath inside will be the selection of furniture suitable for the interior.