Do-it-yourself bath: projects, photos, stages of construction. Building a bath with your own hands: choosing the type, features, equipment How to make a home bath

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How to build a bath in the country

Building a bathhouse and its further arrangement on your own is not an easy task. But still, doable. Initially, you should think about choosing the right materials and components. It is worth noting that today there are many building materials that are perfect for building a summer house. Therefore, it is easy to get confused in the choice of these materials. However, there is no need to worry. After all, a special portal Beton-Area.com today will tell you how to build a bathhouse in the country with your own hands inexpensively. Here we will give helpful tips and show a special video with which you can carry out this process correctly.

How to determine the right place to build a bath

In order for the bath to serve for a long time, first of all, you need to make a competent choice of a place for a future bath. In this case, our advice will simply be useful to you.

• The location of the bath should be chosen away from any body of water. Why is it necessary to do so? It turns out that it can simply be flooded with water.
• You can make a bath additionally by attaching it to an existing house, or build it as a separate building. These options differ from each other in their unique advantages and disadvantages. In any case, only you can choose the appropriate option for building a future bath.
• The most suitable place for building a future bath is the most extreme part of your land plot or yard.
• For a bath, it is necessary to properly provide for a good system of future ventilation and proper disposal of wastewater.
• The place chosen for construction, located near the road, will be considered incorrect.
• The southern part of the plot or yard is considered the right choice for this construction site. It turns out that in the southern part of the land, the finished bath will receive maximum sunlight. In addition, in this part of the courtyard, the bathhouse will be protected from the wind. Indeed, if you build a bathhouse in the southern part of your yard, you can make the stay of people resting there as comfortable and very pleasant as possible.
• If you decide to attach a bath to an existing house, then in this case it is necessary to comply with fire safety requirements.
• It is advisable to choose a future place for the construction of this building far from the nearest neighboring houses, since your bathhouse may be an inconvenience for a good rest for people living next to you.
• If possible, the windows in the bathhouse should be located in the western part of the finished building.
• The bath must be built close to the existing well, at a distance of about 15-20m.

This publication will fully answer the question of how to build a bath in the country. Let's continue talking about this process.

So, before you build a bath, you need to correctly draw and design the future structure. Properly choose the future area of ​​your bath. Remember that it must be at least 6 sq.m. for 1 person in this building. Suppose, if 5 people visit the bath, then, accordingly, its area should be 30 sq.m. As a rule, in the bath there should be a room allocated for a steam room. Also in the bath it is necessary to place a rest room and a dressing room. In organizing the premises that should be in the bath, you need to decide for yourself what area to determine for the listed future rooms.

First you need to design and draw drawings of the future bath. The drawings should include:

1. General design of the bath.
2. The project of all rooms that will be located in this room.
3. Roof drawing.
4. Description of the fastening of the beam.
5. Schemes of the future ceiling and floor.
6. Options for installing a stove in a future bath.

All of the above schemes and projects can be prepared by yourself. Also, such drawings can be found on readable sites on the Internet or any other sources. In general, having considered a large number of these drawings and projects of the future bath, we can conclude that they are all practically similar to each other, and have only slight differences.

Necessary choice of accessories and materials for the bath

To build a bath using a bar, you need to purchase the necessary components and various materials for this.

• For the construction of a bath, you should buy a building material - a beam, which will have a section of 150 by 150 mm.
• To lay the future floor in the bath, you need to buy a wooden board. The right choice is a cut board, which has a four-meter length with a section of 15 by 5 centimeters.
• The material for the ceiling is, as a rule, boards from lining.
• You also need to take care of the purchase of all kinds of materials for finishing work indoors. In most cases, the use of wooden distillation for finishing in the bath is very popular.
• It is also important to purchase a certain amount of vapor barrier materials - tapes or films of various properties. For a bath, the most commonly used material is penofol or polyethylene film.
• For finished bath it is recommended to purchase materials for insulating an already finished ceiling. Most builders opt for ecowool or mineral wool. These materials are environmentally friendly and have good heat and sound insulation. Therefore, they are perfect for warming the ceiling in the bath.
• Bath construction involves the use of asbestos-cement materials to provide good and much-needed thermal insulation in the bath. The most practical and effective material is sheet asbestos. As a rule, these sheets are placed and fixed on the walls near the stove and chimney.
• The construction of a bath is impossible to imagine without a foundation. Therefore, for the manufacture of the foundation of a modern bath, materials with bulk properties are used - sand, cement and gravel.
• During the construction of the bath, it is imperative to use materials for the final finishing of the roof. In this case, you can resort to various options you like. The main thing in this task is the appearance future roof. It should not stand out too much from the surrounding neighboring houses or buildings.
• It is desirable to build a future bath in the spring. This is necessary so that after the completion of all work there is time left for shrinkage of this room. Also, all materials used in the construction of the bath must dry. Cement should be purchased before construction work. In this case, it will not deteriorate.

General instructions for building a bath

The construction of the bath must be carried out in several stages. First, work is carried out to prepare the site for construction, and then the arrangement of rooms with all kinds of accessories and components.

We are preparing a site for construction. The necessary place must first be cleared, remove debris, existing roots of plants or trees. this work necessary to obtain a more even place for the future foundation.

Foundation manufacturing. The most popular type of existing work on the manufacture of the foundation is the foundation, which has a support in the form of pillars. The first step is to dig the required number of holes to place the future support of our foundation in them. Their installation is carried out at the right angle along the general perimeter of the building and where there are sections that intersect with the walls. These pillars are installed, as a rule, depending on the characteristics of the existing soil at the site of the building and on the load that will act on the support. The depth of the required holes for the foundation should be approximately 110-160cm. It is necessary to backfill all pits with a mixture consisting of sand and pebbles. The depth of the layer should be 13-20cm. Cement pipes must be installed in ready-made pits, observing a clear vertical level. In each of them by placing reinforcement, consisting of metal rods. Pipes should be poured with concrete containing reinforcement. This design should be given time for 5-6 days to strengthen and harden. After that, we will begin work on laying out the walls between the pillars in half a brick.

Making the roof and walls of the future bath. For the manufacture of walls of the future premises, a beam measuring 150 by 150 mm is used. On ready and insulated special material the foundation is laid with beams, resorting to the so-called “in the paw” method. Laying timber for walls is carried out at the required height, always making gaps for future doors and windows in this building. A special insulation is laid between the layers of the laid bars.

Components and accessories for the operation of the bath. The upper part of the lined wall is brought under the roof and strengthened in accordance with the given form of the roof of the room. We fasten the rafters to the final layer of the timber with construction brackets. If you have opted for pitched roof, then the rafters need to be fixed with two supports - either internal or external. Having a gable roof, it follows that the existing lower parts at the rafters should be supported on the walls. And the upper parts of the rafters are interconnected and take the form of a ridge.

Arrangement indoors. Initially, it is necessary to start the arrangement with carrying out desired system communications. Communication such as sewerage should be taken care of before pouring the foundation. First of all, make a drainage hole or well outside the future bath. The connection to the pit is made using a pipe laid under a certain slope.

After completing these works, you should proceed to the manufacture of the floor in the room. There are several types of it - concrete or wood. The concrete floors were finished using tiles. This item is very practical. A floor made of wood is made with water drained through it. It is very easy to do this. Boards with certain gaps are nailed to the installed lags. Most builders use a drain hatch, closing it with a special grate. When using this technology, it is necessary to lay the floor with the required slope. In this case, all the accumulated water will exit through the hatch into the pipe, and from there fall into the drainage pit.

To increase the life of wood, our advice to you is to ventilate the bath every time after visiting it.

In the bath, you also need to make a good heat-moisture-vapor barrier, using the materials necessary for this. Install windows and doors. Conduct electricity.

Manufacturing and installation of shelves and stoves in the bath

The appearance and design feature of your chosen shelves in the bath can be any. The shelves are installed in the following order - the first step was the installation of the frame, using wooden beams, and then the necessary boards are nailed to it.

When purchasing a stove for a bath, people, in most cases, stop at choosing a product that they liked the most in appearance. Also, many people are engaged in laying out a stone stove on their own, and some people buy special equipment for baths or an apparatus with heating elements.

Components and accessories for the operation of the bath

There are a huge number of various components and accessories for taking a bath on sale. You can buy for your finished bath: various wooden buckets and cisterns, oak brooms, mugs, bowls and other necessary attributes. The interior inside the bath can be different, depending on your preferences and taste.

Now you know how to build a bath in the country with your own hands in stages.

How to build a bath in the country with your own hands inexpensively useful advice and video

So, before you build a bath, you need to correctly draw and design the future structure. Properly choose the future area of ​​your bath. Remember that it must be at least 6 sq.m.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country: step by step instructions

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can do a garden or landscaping, and then relax, having a steam bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to make a bath in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. You'll have to work hard, but it's worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly what will happen, but a little later. First you need:

• choose the right project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building materials;
• build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
• finish the interior and only then bathe.

If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bath in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all stages of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath

The place for the bath must be chosen correctly

Often summer cottages do not differ in large sizes, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also norms that must be followed. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of draining the water.
2. It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun penetrating the steam room through the window will relieve stress, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window of the country house. So you can watch the bathhouse being heated and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.

In order to avoid conflict situations with authorities or neighbors, the instructions of SNiP 30-02-97 must be observed. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only those numbers that you need in order to choose optimal location for a bath.

Taking into account the fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, the distances indicated in the table must be adhered to:

The distance, which directly depends on the material used in the construction of the building

The same buildings using wooden elements

Wooden and similar buildings

As for the requirements regarding distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

The minimum allowable distance between buildings located on a neighboring plot

A variety of outbuildings (they include a bathhouse)

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - a shower, bath and sauna should be at least 8 m from the garden house.

By the way, non-compliance with these norms can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bath to another place.

Bath project

When choosing a bath project, it is important to consider the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of structure:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bath (from timber or rounded logs).
3. Bath made of brick, stone or blocks.
4. Arbolite building.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all the criteria.

The layout of a small bath 6 × 3 m

Option for planning a bath from a log house

Planning a bath for a summer residence

Bath plan 6×6 m

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to build frame buildings, as they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a design, the foundation also does not have to be spent much.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, in contrast to the frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built in the country does not need to be insulated.
• Stone and brick are rarely used to build a bath in the country. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure needs a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be warmed up for a long time. The exceptions are buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls turn out to be warm, but it is important to consider that this building material is very hygroscopic, so it must be protected from moisture.
• Arbolit is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or built from blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since our article deals with several possible options for using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

frame structure

The material for the frame bath should be of good quality, and the bars should be dry and even.

The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:

• Timber of various sections, the dimensions and quantity of which are indicated in the project.
• Insulating material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulating material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
• Material for sheathing the frame outside and inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or block house are used for the exterior cladding of a building, while lining is used from the inside.

wooden bath

Using a rounded log, you can very quickly build a bath, as everything is prepared in advance at the factory

For the construction of walls can be used:

• Natural debarked tree.
• Cut beam.
• Profiled bar.
• Glued beam.
• Round log.

Bath made of brick, stone or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (quarrystone, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Arbolite building

Wood concrete is durable and lightweight, so it is also often used in construction work.

If it is possible to purchase sawdust inexpensively (or maybe you have your own), then at home it is quite possible to make arbolite blocks of fairly high quality. Also, this building material in the form of finished blocks is on sale. Walls are built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the possibility of manufacturing monolithic walls by pouring cement-shaving mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bath

The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, so it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For sheathing the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use wooden lining, as it is able to withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products should not be used in this room, when heated, resin begins to stand out from this wood. It is also impossible to hem the ceiling with sheets of fiberboard and chipboard, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of fumes that can harm human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to perform external insulation only if the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will do such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bath.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is laid inside the structure. In a wooden bath, you need to make a crate into which a heater is inserted. Other types of baths need insulation made using more complex technology.

To perform the work, mineral wool is required, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. Insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

As for vapor barrier, it is important to know that this is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will do its job, while waterproofing, used for other purposes, can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to get a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bath in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for the exterior, it can be any material that is used for sheathing houses. If the bath is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to close the already beautiful facade with something else.

Bath construction

Now we will consider how the construction of a bathhouse in the country with our own hands can be done. It is clear that the work will be easier to do with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of the work, some instructions can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as we would like, but if they feel that they are needed, then they will then be more careful about the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since some work cannot be done alone. As you read this article, you'll see when and how many helpers may be needed - this will help you plan everything.

So, the plan has been chosen, the location has been decided, now let's start marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale specified in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be located, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - the fourth peg is hammered.

Now, when there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners turned out. To do this, it is necessary to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted, "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct them again.

If the foundation is tape, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the marking must be very accurately done.

So we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further marking is performed depending on what the foundation will be. More details about this can be found in the table.

Where is it applied and how is markup performed

slab foundation

This type of foundation, due to its high cost, is done only in cases where it cannot be dispensed with. Marking is carried out according to the size of the building or a little more when it is necessary that the foundation be wider and longer than the bath.

Shallow strip foundation

A very common type of foundation. Relatively inexpensive and durable. The marking is carried out in such a way that the tape filled with concrete passes along the perimeter of the building and under the walls.

Column Foundation

This type of foundation is also often found. It is mainly used for mounting wooden structures on it. Depending on the dimensions of the bath, the marking is carried out according to the number of manufactured supports.

screw foundation

It is believed that this type of foundation is new, but this is an erroneous conclusion based on the fact that it has recently been used in civil engineering. The screw foundation has stood the test of time, as the military has long begun to use it. The advantage of the foundation on screw piles is the speed and simplicity of its installation. The second advantage is that there is no need to carry out earthworks, so the site will remain clean. In addition, it can be used to build a bath even on a site with a significant slope.

The marking is done according to the number of piles and no deviation to the side is allowed.

Weigh all the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.

Foundation pouring

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil in the area is dry and loose.
2. Level ground water low enough.
3. In winter, frosts are not very strong.
4. The buildings are not heavy.

Do not try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after performing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with a simpler and most commonly used shallow foundation for a bath.

• We have external markings, now we need to make internal ones, taking into account the fact that the width of the foundation must be at least 50 cm, and must protrude 5–10 cm from each side of the building. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation location of the furnace and at the same time make the foundation for it.
• For convenience, in the corners you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord should be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

For a strip foundation, marking is carried out both along the outer and inner contours.

• It is necessary to remove the fertile topsoil and put it aside, then dig a trench, the clay from which can then be used as a backfill.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. It is necessary to dig to a solid clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50–60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its horizontal level.
• Now it's time for the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand into the trench, at least 15 cm thick, moisten with water and compact well. To do this, it would be more convenient to use a vibrotamper, but it can also be done manually, using a heavy bar with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is poured with crushed stone of the middle fraction and also carefully rammed.
• Now it's the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from improvised materials or wood harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be dismantled shortly after pouring the foundation. Finished shields must be installed along the trench and well fixed, otherwise the poured concrete may move them.

The formwork must be securely fastened. You can also immediately insert the sleeve, then to carry out communications

• In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside plastic wrap to be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame of metal or plastic fittings, fastened with knitting wire.

You can perform all calculations in our online calculator.

• The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
• If any communications pass through the foundation, then you need to leave holes for them, which will help the sleeves, as done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time in such a way as to pour the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver the concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that M400 cement will need 1 bucket, sand - 3, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
• The foundation poured with concrete should be compacted with a vibrator or bayoneted. After shrinkage, you need to add a little concrete and level the site. If a basis is made for wooden house, then in non-cured concrete it is necessary to fix the foundation bolts.
• Not earlier than a week later, you can remove the formwork.

It should be remembered that concrete has not yet gained full strength, so it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.

Wall masonry

When building a bath from blocks, stone or brick, you need to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar, and lay a roofing material folded in half on it. Masonry starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane, and only after that a twine is pulled along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a number of building materials.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: a wall of brick and shell rock is erected on a cement-sand mortar, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed the jumpers above the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to proceed with the manufacture of the roof.

The construction of the frame of the bath

The basis of such a bath is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed with various types of finishing materials. It is necessary to choose high-quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. The manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a frame of the lower trim is made from a beam of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. If bars 50 × 100 mm are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bath.

Making the base for the frame bath

• At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are attached to it right next to it. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
• The logs must be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close between them, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
• The wall frame is assembled from a 50 × 100 mm beam, and then installed in its place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, you need to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as a heat-insulating material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disturbing the natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Concrete floor installation with wooden flooring

If in the frame bath it remains only to insulate the floor and lay the floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a subfloor, fix the vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay the floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the dacha will not be thoroughly dried due to the lack of time for this, because after the weekend you will need to quickly leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it. Wooden shields are laid on it, which can be taken out to dry in a barn and calmly go home.

Wooden floor with insulation

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. This process is described in more detail in the next two videos.

roof construction

Above any bath there should be a reliable roof, but the options for creating it can be different. In any case, you need to lay waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will freely enter the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensate formed on the roofing material will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since the technical parameters of the structure must be taken into account.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the cottage is located in the steppe zone, blown by all the winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
• With small sizes of baths and minor snow loads, the roof can be made single-pitched. The same roof is most often made in a bathhouse attached to the house.

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most often used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created with high humidity. It should be said right away that pine lumber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to finish this room. Therefore, you need to purchase lining made of larch or linden.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, therefore there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a rest room and dressing room. Pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Finishing wood and brick bath clapboard is performed almost the same way. First, a crate is attached to the wall, and a lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there should be heat-reflecting foil under the crate.

Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bath beautiful, but also to protect it.

You just have to choose the right material and finish the facade.

Ventilation in the bath

Sometimes there is still such an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is completely absent. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room at the top it is very hot, and the legs are cold.

In fact, while taking bath procedures, the air in the room should be updated 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens, and warm air begins to rapidly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation, as in the diagram.

Scheme of air circulation in the steam room

Such a device allows you to keep warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the top vent (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat in vain, it can be done so that it is possible to close the ventilation openings during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

The canopy and all the furniture for the country bath can be made independently. If there is no desire to make something else, then the network has many offers for the sale of everything you need to give.

With a strong desire to save on furniture, you can review old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but does not get around to it? After a little restoration, such furniture can last a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Bath plan 6 × 7.2 m

6×6 m

5×4 m

4×4 m

3×5 m

3×3 m

Photo: original baths

Sauna in the country with their own hands - photos, diagrams, drawings, video

Learn how to build a bathhouse in the country with your own hands. The article describes several types of baths that can be built in the country.

We build a bath in the country with our own hands

Bath in the country - one of the best places to relax Bath in the country - a real outlet after a hard day's work. It can also be an alternative to an ordinary holiday in the country with barbecue and soft drinks. But, besides, this is the best option to put yourself in order and have a good rest.

Many of us use the bath for different occasions. For some, this is a Sabbath day tradition, for others it is an occasion to gather a group of friends and brightly end a difficult week. But, despite the position, a bathhouse in the country is a real miracle, and that is why almost every summer resident simply dreams of such a structure.

You can build a bath in the country in several ways - by contacting specialists who offer a wide variety of projects, or on your own, trying to save money and get your hand on a new business. By and large, for experienced summer residents who build verandas and terraces with their own hands, construct gazebos and awnings, this is not so difficult, but if you take up construction for the first time, serious problems may arise. It is worth solving them in advance, having studied not only the options for baths, projects and construction methods, but also having studied the main stages of the construction process.

Choosing the type of building for the bath

Depending on the region, the cost of materials, as well as personal requirements, it is necessary to choose the main material of construction. It can be brick or wood as the most popular building materials.

The characteristics of baths made of wood or brick are also important, because the materials differ in quality and properties, reliability and durability, and ease of use.

It often happens that a bath is built on the basis of an already finished building, in which a room is simply allocated for a steam room and a washing room. Then things are much easier. But it also happens that the construction takes place from scratch, and then we are faced with the task of studying absolutely all stages of construction - site selection, construction plan, general project and estimate, foundation and forcing walls, exterior and interior decoration, other works on arrangement and decor .

We are well aware that after reading our article it will be quite difficult to immediately pick up a hammer and in three days drive the bathhouse out to suburban area. But we will try to bring you as close as possible to the process and explain all its subtleties so that such work becomes much easier for you!

Choosing the best place for a bath

Thanks to communication with people who have built more than one bath in their lives, and also continue to do this business and now, we have learned many interesting facts that we share with you. So, initially we will talk about where it is best to build a bathhouse in a summer cottage:

• You should not build a bath next to a reservoir, in close proximity to the water, as the building can be flooded with floods;
• An excellent option is an extension to a residential building or any other building - saving materials and energy saving;
• It is most correct to build a bathhouse in the backyard, where there are no drafts, in the silence of trees;
• Be sure to think about waterproofing, vapor barrier and ventilation even at the initial stages of construction, because the bath tends to create unpleasant odors if built incorrectly or not provided with proper care;
• Do not start construction near a road or field - dust in indoor wet areas is useless;
• The south side is the most suitable for construction;
• Think about fire safety, as the risk of unpleasant situations here is quite high;
• If possible, start construction at a distance from the neighboring territory. So you will not observe envious or judgmental looks on yourself, and provoke scandals due to noisy rest or aromas of the bath;
• Conduct construction in a place remote from the well or well, at least 15-20 m.

How to avoid building mistakes

No matter how colorful you plan the construction, or paint the future result, at the end you will not like something. This is a 100% guarantee, because there is no ideal in our world. But there is always an opportunity to minimize all the construction and decoration mistakes that lead to disappointment. Therefore, we recommend that you carefully consider the following:

• Do not forget about the correct planning of internal areas. It is believed that a bath for 2-3 people should be about 10 m2;
• The optimal height of the interior is 2-2.2 m. long time warming up;
• Try to place the doors in the bath on the south side, and the windows on the west or southwest;
• It is desirable to make windows small, as, in principle, doors. If options are possible with windows, then it is advisable to make doors no more than 70 cm wide and no more than 180 cm high. You will also need a high threshold. Of course, this creates some inconvenience, but it seriously reduces heat loss;
• Choose materials for construction not only according to aesthetic data, give preference to lightweight materials with a high energy-saving ability;
• Regardless of the materials of construction, pay maximum attention to safety and quality equipment;
• Seriously approach the choice of wood for interior design, do not use resinous woods.

What to build a bath from

At the moment, there are many options among which it is worth choosing. But if you pay attention to the latest technology quick construction, then saving here will not work. Of course, a frame bath is being built in just a few days, but it will also cost a pretty penny. Therefore, it is worth looking for a more acceptable option, for many of us and in general, from used materials, for example, brick or cinder block. And why not, because such a building will easily serve for several decades ...

In fact, now you can build from anything, as long as the requirements and budget are met, as well as the characteristics of the future building are combined with your opinion about the new bath.

Bath in the country with their own hands

Unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to build a bath, and therefore many of our readers who decide on this process will start it from intermediate stages, for example, from finishing an already finished building and interior. Therefore, today we will not talk about how to build a bath from a bar or build a frame bath, but simply consider the most acceptable option for everyone from a brick or cinder block.

We have already discussed the stages of construction in short list, now it is necessary to consider each of them in detail!

Having correctly chosen a place for the site, having cleared it of debris and any overgrowth, a swarm of trenches for pouring the strip foundation. Of course, a columnar foundation can also be used under a beam or log, but it is better to fill it under a brick.

As in any standard summer cottage, when we talked about gazebos, sheds and other structures, you need to correctly calculate the parameters of the foundation. In addition, you need to create all the necessary layers of the pillow, from gravel and sand, choose the material for reinforcement, perhaps even fiberglass reinforcement.

When the trench for the foundation is ready, and reinforcement is installed inside, pour the concrete and let it settle for several days. Naturally, it is better to fill it higher, arranging the formwork 20-30 cm above the ground, so that you do not have to start laying in direct contact with the ground.

It is also worth taking care of waterproofing, which can be coated or made of roofing material, in the old fashioned way. Sometimes a film is also used, but it all depends strictly on the type of building.

Do not forget about the engineering communications for the bath, which can be brought inside before the foundation is poured or already in the process of laying the walls.

Walling

Depending on the material and type of masonry, you should choose a solution, as well as the speed of work. The thing is that the masonry cannot be done too quickly, as the brick can float and the work will stop. Therefore, we immediately determine whether we are building in brick or half-brick, or maybe in general, we choose cinder block or aerated concrete.

We start laying carefully, in accordance with the work plan and the project, we move up, constantly using the level and plumb lines. We do not forget about the placement of windows and doors, we cover the openings with posts, we make the jointing.

At the initial stage of masonry, you can also lay logs under the floor, work with communications.

Roof device

Once the exterior and interior walls have been kicked out, the quality of the work checked and you are ready to proceed, it is time to move on to the roof arrangement.

The first thing you need is to knock down the base of the roof into a single structure and install rafters on it, by the way, you can also do it in finished form. When this stage is completed, you can proceed to the device of the crate.

Depending on what kind of ceiling you installed in the bath, you should immediately think about the chimney for the stove. Perhaps the output will be through the wall, but do not forget about the possibility of output through the ceiling and the roof, which means that holes for the chimney will be needed.

After that, we move on to the roofing device, which we once talked about in some detail. Roofing materials can be very different, starting with the same slate, and ending with expensive tiles. But here we focus on weight, reliability, fire safety and many other fashionable and necessary factors today.

Upon completion of the roofing work, we go down, because now we need to finish everything with the floor.

There are no problems with the floor, but there is a lot of controversy about its insulation. As we found out, it is also necessary to insulate the basement from the inside in order to get best performance energy saving and really warm and dry floor.

To do this, on the basement part, on a brick or a raised foundation, we produce mineral wool insulation and waterproofing. Next, we fill the floor under the washing room, not forgetting about the water supply and sewerage pipes, and we make a dry backfill under the floor in the rest of the rooms. Expanded clay can be used for this.

Now it remains to lay a layer of insulation and vapor barrier, make a small gap, literally 1-2 cm, and lay the board.

Interior and exterior decoration

We will start with thermal insulation, since this stage is very important for a bath. Many are insulated from the outside, but why do we need to heat a cold brick if the same layer of insulation can be laid from the inside. Therefore, on the outside there is a decorative finish or additional insulation with foam plastic, and inside it is mandatory insulation with mineral wool.

It is produced as follows - the walls are covered with waterproofing, a wooden crate is applied, then a layer of mineral wool and a vapor barrier are fixed on the surface. Most often, this is aluminum foil, on top of which the finishing takes place.

Now the ceilings. There should also not be any difficulties, since the process is identical to the insulation of bath walls. But the ceiling is also insulated in the attic, where fiberglass is laid between the beams. Expanded clay is poured on top or mineral wool, a vapor barrier layer and a rough finish are laid. A cement screed is also possible, depending on the floor production technology.

The interior decoration of the bath rooms is made with clapboard, the exterior - with any material, the design of which is most interesting to you. It can be siding, plastering and painting, composite materials, facing bricks and so on.

During the finishing, it is necessary to install the stove, make a safe exit of the chimney, seal all openings on the outlets as much as possible. We will talk more about sauna stoves in the future!

Installation of windows and doors

This stage will not be a difficult test for you, since we have already told you how to install windows in the country, and we have mentioned doors more than once. Try only to choose high-quality materials and install correctly, because the energy saving of the interior depends on this.

You can choose wooden or metal-plastic doors and windows, order glass doors in the sauna, but you yourself understand that it is in the tree that everything will be most natural and warm!

Arrangement of a country bath

We do not undertake to decide for you, since harmony and compliance with your taste in this matter is above all, and you can create such an effect only on your own. Therefore, try to approach the design correctly, furnish the rest room, supply the bath with everything you need - decor and accessories. We recommend that you learn about the budget option for a summer cottage.

Do not forget that the bath needs light. Here we recommend that you contact a qualified electrician who will wire and install in accordance with all requirements of wet rooms. You can also call a plumber to check your own work, because the supply of water to the bath and sewerage are no less important!

Each stage of the construction of a bath in the country is complicated in its own way. Naturally, you can re-read a lot of interesting articles, watch tutorials, or contact specialists directly for minimal help. But here you must understand that only a personal desire will allow you to start and complete the project. If this is just an idea that seems simple and feasible to you in a couple of days, it is better not to take on the process. Save your energy, time and money, draw up an accurate and correct project, and only then get to work. Well, when you have any questions on this topic, DachaDecor.ru specialists will be happy to answer them. We recommend learning how to choose a stove for a bath.

We build a bath in the country with our own hands

Bath in the country - a real outlet after a hard day's work. It can also be an alternative to an ordinary holiday in the country with barbecue and soft drinks. But, besides, this is the best option to put yourself in order and have a good rest.

Building a bath from a log house is not an easy task, but the construction technology, the choice of materials, and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen. This material explains all the key points that will help in the construction of a log bath: from laying the foundation to interior decoration.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camping stoves. And in the 21st century, the Russian bath did not become a kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries of competition with baths and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances accumulated in urban everyday life, give the body a good rest - all this is achieved when visiting a bath for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it works in general - you will find answers to many "bath" questions in this article.

Location and layout of the bath

One of the important additions to the bath itself at all times was a reservoir with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. A special charm in the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrast bath - after taking a steam bath in a Russian bathhouse, run out of it and plunge into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, a natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with the fire of the bath, which arose quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Today, there is no particular need to link a country bath to a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the cottage.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bath: distance from the road, the presence of a natural or artificial fence from strangers (dense bushes, tree crowns, a fence, outbuildings), a fire-prevention distance from the main residential building of at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bath are the dressing room, the washing room and the steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 for each bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 for one person. In addition, in the dressing room there should be a place for furniture (locker for clothes, benches for sitting) and for storing fuel (box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need a place for containers with hot and cold water, stoves and a place for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people), a bath of the following sizes is suitable: outer dimension- 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bath of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bath is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the site is significant, then the bath can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, relaxation rooms, etc. to it.

In temperate and cold climatic zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and the window openings are on its western (southwestern) side. Such an arrangement of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow longer to illuminate its premises with sunlight.

Bath construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selection and laying of the foundation.
3. Creation of a foundation for a stove-heater (if necessary).
4. Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bath.
5. Assembling the log cabin.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installation of a furnace, installation of a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply of the bath.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful structural material for the Russian bath was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, removing excess moisture to the outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bath? As a rule, baths are built from pine or spruce round timber with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bath - oak, larch and linden. For example, the lower crowns and logs for flooring, made of oak, will allow you to get a truly durable bath. Nuance - the oak must be cut down "in the juice itself" (that is, not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4), following the first oak, are best made from larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to store wood for building a bath? Round timber, wood for interior decoration must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bath - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, that is, the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion in the selection of wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the round timber of coniferous species, dryness, a sanded surface, the absence of rotten areas and places of damage by woodworms.

Bath foundation

The main types of foundation for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the chosen type of foundation, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - it is better if to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying the foundation of any type: cleaning the site from debris, complete removal of the topsoil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid clay or fluid plastic.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (dusty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bath

They are arranged on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bath, as well as at the junctions of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation are easy to make directly at the construction site of the bath; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, connected with concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made in two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth, coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer - 100-150 mm), filled with water and rammed.

Foundation pillars when building a bath with your own hands can also be done independently. This will require a collapsible formwork made of boards, smeared from the inside with a non-hardening lubricant of the Emulsol type. Inside the assembled formwork, you need to place iron reinforcement, then pour the concrete mixture.

For casting foundation pillars inside the pits dug for them, a sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing paper or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for the sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm or more is created, placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is covered with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then the concrete mixture is poured, which must be carefully compacted. For wire handles, previously fixed on the sliding formwork, it is lifted by 400 mm by rocking, sand is poured from the outside and a new batch of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation, they are durable, not subject to decay, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete, their underground part must be covered with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

Between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bath and internal walls the steam room is laid out with brick walls, their sufficient thickness is a brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried in the ground by 250 mm.

Foundation pillars and brick walls between them are brought to a height of 300-400 mm from the ground level, they must be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing material for waterproofing. At the ends of the pillars, during casting, mortgages of the required shape made of metal are installed - they are designed to fasten the log cabin of the bath to the foundation.

When building a bath on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a tape monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking the construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Adding a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70-100 mm).
4. Formwork installation.
5. Reinforcement tab.
6. fill concrete mix.

The reinforcement laid on the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross section of at least 12 mm, it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifting it to its middle with the help of brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in a ratio of 5:3:1 (crushed stone:sand:cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). It is quite simple to calculate the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 \u003d 2.64 m 3

One of the difficulties in the preparation of a dry mix of concrete is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will come in handy: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of gravel, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel or wire probe, tap the outside of the formwork with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait for the foundation to completely harden, about 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, the formwork after pouring concrete must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the period allotted for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to its waterproofing and lifting with brick rows (if the bath is not required, then, after waterproofing, we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. The grid is masonry.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing material (roofing) is cut into strips sufficient for flooring on a concrete foundation, then laid out on top of the foundation on bituminous mastic(for roofing - tar mastic). The brick is laid in a single-row dressing method: a masonry mortar is laid out on a roofing material layer, the first brick row “in a poke” (across the foundation axis) is laid on it, then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar and the next brick row are laid, but already “in a spoon” (along the axis foundation). Each new row of brickwork is accompanied by a laying of masonry mesh, laying "in a spoon" and "in a poke" alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired height of the foundation.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (the composition of the solution is sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and sauna floor

We create the foundation for the stove-heater and assemble the bath house. If a major laying of a heater is expected, it needs an independent foundation, that is, not connected with the main foundation.

The floor in the bath can be clay, earth, wood or concrete. By by and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bath visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring rises above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of the wooden floor of the bath is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rotting and an unpleasant odor. wood flooring the floor wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, after 6-8 years it may require replacement. Tile will be more practical for bath flooring - it is easier to care for it, it is not exposed to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bath rooms must be placed at different levels: the floor of the steam room is 150 mm higher than the floor of the washing room (we keep warm), the floor of the washing room is 30 mm lower than the floor level in the dressing room (we protect against water ingress).

Since the installation of a concrete floor with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to arrange a concrete floor in a bath. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction, laid in series. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay a roofing material on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Next steps:

1. First option- flooring of a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope to the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it must be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can proceed to tile work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement screed containing perlite (expanded sand). Composition of the mixture: perlite:cement:water as 5:1:3. After a full week from the moment of laying the perlite concrete, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope under the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Correctly observe the proportion of water!

With a significant rise in the basement of the bath above the ground (from 300 mm), wooden logs of square section (side 150 mm) will be required for flooring. If the dimensions of the bathhouse do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the logs will be supported by the logs. For larger sizes, additional supports for floor logs will be required, they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700-800 mm. Support pillars for logs must be placed on a multilayer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm.

Important! Before forming the base for the support of the log, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove-heater and build a sewerage system.

Wood for logs can be oak, larch or conifers, logs should be treated with tar or antiseptic before installation.

The solution for flooring in this case is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing material with walls overlapping to the height of the floor, covered with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm foam can be laid between the layer of roofing material and bulk insulation), a draft floor of 29 mm is attached to the underside of the logs edged board. Then a PVC film is laid, foil mineral insulation, again a layer of film - for vapor barrier. On top we pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with a fine fraction filler, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Do not forget to bring the foundation for the furnace to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm grooved boards made of softwood.

An important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - the condition is especially important for a steam room!

Bath sewerage system

To drain wastewater from the bath, you will need: a pit with a water seal, a sewage well and pipes that drain dirty water into the pit and further into the sewer well.

The pit is torn off outside the foundation of the bath, gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are brought into it from the steam room and washing room (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, a 110 mm drain pipe (pipes) from the bath is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drains, containing at least 2 m 3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the farther the better. A pipe is brought to it from the pit, laid under a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering the drain pipe, the main sewage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully tamp each layer.

Before the outlet of the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bath. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drain hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be closed with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be laid between them, and the top cover covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Shed, roof and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bath to order from professional performers; its manufacture is quite difficult. Finished log house in disassembled form, it is necessary to bring it to the construction site and assemble it according to the numbering of logs. Crowns are fastened with 25 mm steel spikes with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The design of the roof of the bath includes rafters, a crate is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on the roof covering with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the log house (better to the penultimate one) with the help of staples-thorns. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of a single or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10 ° to 60 °) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Keep in mind - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Shed rafters, located at an angle, are fixed with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are interconnected, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bath can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing material, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap on the walls of at least 500 mm.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We carry out a blind area along the foundation perimeter: we completely remove the top layer of soil, deepen by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the basement of the bath, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) with its subsequent leveling. We lay the expansion joints (19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, with a step of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), pour a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - dry cement is covered with a layer of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bath must be covered with bitumen for its waterproofing.

Caulker of a bath house

It is carried out for warming the log house - sealing the cracks between its logs, the material for caulking is traditionally linen tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made materials made from jute and flax fibers: linen and felt - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory materials for caulking over natural ones is resistance to moth and fungus damage, and it is easier to work with factory material, because it is produced in the form of a continuous tape of a given thickness and width.

The caulking of the log house is carried out during its assembly - the caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the construction of the roof, a full caulk is performed - from the outer and inner sides of the log house, a year later - repeated caulking (the log house is upset - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet, you can make them yourself or buy ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking spatula looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, handle thickness 30 mm, blade width at the base 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a rounded shape: the handle diameter is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the impact part diameter is 70 mm, and the length is 100 mm.

Caulking is performed in two ways - “in a set” or “in a stretch”. In the second way, we caulk like this: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it in with a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap the roller around them and drive it into the groove with the help of a spatula and a roller - with force, until we are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log cabins is designed to cover grooves (slots) of large width. We twist the material for caulking with 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the slot. Loops are recruited in an amount sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Caulking rules:

• first, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log, and only after that - along the bottom;
• we start work on caulking from the slots of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move on to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the slots of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the next one in the nearest wall (right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

In no case do not caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the log house to skew, you will have to disassemble / assemble it again. Recall once again: caulking is performed in the direction "from bottom to top" along the perimeter of the log house.

We put the oven

There are many design options for sauna stoves, they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and be heated by electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. brick ovens in baths, they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry joints must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness in order to achieve the greatest efficiency of the furnace. Only red brick is used for laying stoves. The firebox of the stove is taken out into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are in the washing room (steam room), while the distance from them to the walls of the washing room should be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast-iron or metal furnace, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

The heaters installed for those who like to take a steam bath are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). But, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the chamber of the heater. The design of these stoves is extremely simple - similar to stoves, heaters differ from them in a wider pipe or in the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, iron ingots must be added to the stones at a percentage of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of a steam room, at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron ingots will be required.

If a distance of 40-50 mm is observed in the furnace between its walls and the water-heating boiler, the effect of a comprehensive blowing of the boiler with hot gases and the fastest heating of water is achieved.

For better draft, you need to bring the chimney as close as possible to the roof ridge. When passing the chimney through the attic space, be sure to fluff the chimney 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near the roof sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire regulations).

Electricity and water supply of the bath

At least 8 liters of hot water is required for washing one bath user. There are several ways to provide such an amount: heat a container of water on the stove, use a gas water heater, install an electric heater - a boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bath is led from the main house - the water from such a pipeline system must be drained in winter, otherwise it will freeze and break the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing a submersible pump for pumping it and supplying such a water supply system with cleaning filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bath, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

To the bath you need to stretch an independent line for supplying electricity and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For air, you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum cable right away, stopping at two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a carrier cable. But it is extremely difficult to carry out installation work with it, because it is too thick (the minimum cross section is 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of the bath along fire regulations, you need to mount it on special anchor clamps - in terms of the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is an air duct with a VVGng copper cable fixed on a supporting steel cable. The cable is suspended from a cable on a wire insulated with plastic, its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core cable VVGng (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), stretched through the air to the bath, the optimal section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what kind of electrical equipment the owner of the dacha wants to power from it in the future.

All junction boxes, sockets and switches, electrical panel must be outdoor installation only. According to fire safety rules, it is forbidden to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing / steam room - only in the dressing room. Do not joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring of the bath should be made only in a non-combustible corrugated hose, fixed to special clips, the cable passing through partitions - only through a steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in the junction box, socket or lamp so that they go there from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple fixtures - a metal case, only a glass cover. All connections of the internal wiring of the cable are only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

For work in the electrical panel and installation of RCDs, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you yourself are not one!

Installation of partitions, ceiling, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

The internal partitions in the bath can be brick or wooden, with subsequent heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be brick, or brick inserts are made in it with masonry in one brick - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior decoration is usually carried out in cases where the bath itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the decoration scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing exterior and interior decoration, you will have to rebuild the ventilation system of the bath, because the log logs will be covered with sheathing and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - draft and finishing. The draft ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From the inside of the washing / steam room, insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached to the draft ceiling, after which the ceiling is covered with a fine finish - lime, pine tongue-and-groove board (20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bath you need to arrange windows not big size(on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that you can look out through them to the person sitting on the bench. The windows in the bath are always double-glazed, depending on the size - with a window or fully hinged - for quick ventilation.

The doors in the bath rooms must be installed so that they open outward - for reasons of fire safety. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter, the boards are fastened to the dowels. The size of the flaps must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than necessary for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when the humidity rises, the flap will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. The optimal size of the door in the washing section of the bath is 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it is uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep warm). Hinges for hanging door leaves - brass, going into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles - wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, the width is 500-800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of two-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to the ceiling is 1100 mm.

The surface for lying is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - with the help of nails, the caps of which are recessed into the tree; bottom with screws. For fastening choose nails and screws made of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the design of the shelves are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing a material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas have a higher density and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to pick up boards and timber without knotty areas at all or with a minimum number of them.

Fire fighting measures

Protect the bathhouse from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace furnace, make sure that the furnace doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishers nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure that you can freely open the doors of the steam room and washing room when kindling the bath. Do not block passages, the space in front of doors and windows.

Every person at least once in his life visited a sauna or a steam room. The feeling of being in a hot bath is impossible to forget. Bath procedures contribute to the rejuvenation and healing of the body. Many owners of their own plots are not averse to building a special room equipped for warm washing. The easiest way is to order a finished project from professionals, but you can try to build a bath with your own hands. This will significantly save the family budget, gain invaluable experience.

Advantages and disadvantages of self-build

Building a bath with your own hands in the garden is a complex, but creative and creative process. Self-construction is quite popular. Among the main advantages of doing work on your own are:

• the possibility of using a project developed in accordance with personal needs, taking into account the preferences of all family members;
• savings, the owner himself manages the allocated budget, and does not pay the amount announced by the contractor;
• it is possible to build in stages, investing small amounts;
• confidence in the quality of purchased building materials;
• obtaining and accumulating experience, it will be useful in the construction of other buildings;
• pride in a structure built by oneself, which one can brag to friends and relatives.

The disadvantages of self-construction of the bath include:

• the need to study existing projects, draw up your own scheme;
• acquisition, transportation of building materials and equipment, the cost of purchasing the tools required to perform the work;
• low construction speed of the structure, experienced builders will build a steam room much faster;
• full responsibility for all stages of work, from the poured foundation to the erection of walls and roofs, the installation of windows and doors;
• difficulty in locating heating equipment, wiring utilities;
• you should be completely confident in your abilities, if there is not enough time, patience, funds, then as a result an unfinished object may appear on the plot.

Design and layout features

When building a bath, it is initially necessary to determine the location. It can be equipped in the house, attached to it, or made a separate structure. But as practice shows, many developers who have chosen the option combined with the main building regret it. Another important aspect is the orientation to the cardinal points. For example, for practical reasons, it is better to place windows from the south or from the west. It is also worth observing the standards for distances between buildings, taking into account the remoteness of the building from the boundaries of the site, a private house, the distance to the reservoir.

The construction of a sauna, like any other structure, begins with the preparation of a project. When designing it, the estimated number of family members who will visit it at the same time, the layout of the site, the allocated area, and the amount of money are taken into account. The scheme may include several rooms, including a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room, a swimming pool, a billiard room, and other rooms. When drawing up a drawing, you should take care of all the important points in advance, include everything you need in it, which will allow you to do without additional extensions, redevelopment of the building in the future.

According to the current legislation, no permits are required to build a bathhouse on your own site, since it is an auxiliary facility. But when drafting a steam room, special attention should be paid to architecture and fire safety, it is recommended to study the following regulations: SNiP 21-01-97* “Fire safety of buildings and structures”, SNiP 3.04.01-87 “Insulating and finishing coatings”, SP 1.13130.2009 “Fire protection systems. Evacuation routes and exits”, SNiP II-L.13-62 “Baths. Design standards".

Optimal area

The main room, without which it is impossible to imagine a bath, is a steam room. Shelves are located here, an oven is installed. Also, the main rooms include a washing or shower room, a dressing room, which also acts as a place to relax, a dressing room. If the building is planned to be used year-round, then it is supplemented with a vestibule, which helps to retain heat. When designing a bath, determining its dimensions, a number of important points are taken into account:

• its location on the site, whether it is a separate structure or acts as an extension to the house;
• heater power level;
• the number of visitors;
• the size of the plot, the amount of free space on it;
• wall thickness, the presence of insulation, the finish used.

• the height of the ceiling in the "Russian" or "Finnish" bath should be more than 2.1 m;
• the minimum size of the steam room per visitor must be at least 850 x 1150 mm or 0.98 sq. m;
• dressing room - 1000 x 2150 mm or 2.15 sq. m;
• washing - 1150 x 1300 mm or 1.49 sq. m.

The given values ​​are conditional. They are calculated based on the average height of a person. When planning, the parameters of all family members should be taken into account. For a separate building, the ratio of the steam room, washing room, dressing room is recommended to be 1: 1.5: 2 parts, respectively. In reality, it all depends on the wishes of the owner.

Zoning of the premises

For large buildings, zoning is not necessary. Here you can freely provide for a separate room for a steam room and a washing room, a billiard room and a pool, a dining room and a dressing room, place a furnace and a bathroom. However, sometimes the owners of the bath need to properly equip it, dividing the rest room into useful functional areas.

If you approach the issue correctly, then even the only room for relaxation can be made multifunctional. Here you can eat, have a tea party, relax on the sofa, watching your favorite TV shows, play billiards, spend time comfortably with friends, discussing the latest news. Also in the rest room, you can provide for a locker room, organize a place to store bath accessories.

For zoning, you can use different techniques. Partitions, windows, artificial lighting, existing pieces of furniture will help to highlight the functional areas, you can also use different finishing materials. When planning, experts recommend dividing the dining area from the living room, for example, placing a billiard table between them. To create additional comfort, a fireplace placed in one of the corners, complemented by a pair of armchairs, will help.

Outdoor extensions - terraces, verandas, gazebos and a barbecue area

An external extension to the bath can be provided at the design stage, or, if necessary, expand the existing structure. It often happens that a structure is built first, and then, due to various circumstances, it becomes necessary to increase it. An extension can have a different purpose, and its variety depends on the available premises.

When expanding the bath or including additional functional areas in it, very often a vestibule, a veranda, a terrace, a balcony, a gazebo, a summer kitchen, a barbecue area are added to the project. The simplest extension is a vestibule, canopy or porch. Also, the construction of a terrace does not cause any particular difficulties, it is more laborious to build an open or glazed veranda, and in the construction of two-story buildings, a balcony is often provided.

If funds allow, then one of the best solutions is a built gazebo or a summer kitchen with a stove or barbecue. The oven improves general form baths, enjoy a delicious fragrant dinner, support comfortable temperature air. However, it should be remembered that the stove has enough big weight, therefore, during its construction, special attention should be paid to the construction of a reinforced foundation.

Internal additional rooms

Undoubtedly, the central room of any bath is the steam room. In fact, this is not the only room that plays an important role. In the building, you can provide many other useful rooms that make it very comfortable and cozy. One of them is a leisure room in which you can place various interior items. The main thing when equipping this area is the choice of high-quality furniture and finishing materials that can last for a long time in conditions of high humidity.

In large buildings, it is possible to provide for the presence of a separate pool. After going to the steam room, many people like not to douse themselves from buckets, take a summer shower, but immediately dive completely into cool water. However, the construction of the pool requires engineering communications. It will require a large amount of water to fill it, so it will not work here. simple drain a good drainage system is required. An alternative to a full-fledged pool can be a small font that looks like a small wooden barrel or a large trough capable of accommodating several people at the same time.

Considering finished projects, you can find baths with a billiard room, a bathroom, a kitchen. Separately, it is worth noting the buildings, which include residential premises. They can be called full-fledged houses that are in demand in the country. Such projects have their fans and opponents. When choosing such a design, you must first think about the high humidity in the house, pay attention to fire safety, for example, use gas and electric stoves.

Communication design

It is impossible to use a bath or sauna normally, which is characterized by high humidity and temperature, without properly designed and built communications. Here, engineering networks are subject to increased requirements related to their safe operation. Particular attention should be paid to water supply, drainage, electricity and ventilation.

Even at the design stage, it is necessary to calculate the volume of water consumption, the number of water intake points. It is also required to determine in advance the mode of operation (seasonal, year-round). If the structure is not heated in winter, it should be possible to drain water from the entire system so that it does not freeze at low temperatures.

Arrangement of ventilation is quite possible to do it yourself. It is enough to install two windows in the bath. One of them will provide an influx of cold air, the other will serve to exit heated and waterlogged oxygen. There is natural and forced ventilation. In the second case, either expensive automatic systems, maintaining the set temperature and humidity in the room, or a budget option, which implies the presence of fans located on the ventilation windows.

When organizing electricity in a bath, one should adhere to existing norms and standards, for example, comply with GOST R 50571.12–96. When choosing a cable, it is recommended to pay attention to the fact that it can withstand temperatures up to 180 degrees. Among heat-resistant products, RKGM, PVKV, PRKS, PMTK, and others can be distinguished. Sockets must be heat-resistant, waterproof, have a hidden installation. The degree of safety of fittings must comply with IP-44/IP-65 standards. It is worth remembering about protective automation (RCD), which must be included in the wiring project.

What bath to build - types of steam rooms

Many peoples of the world in the process of their development have their own unique traditions in the arrangement and use of baths. Among the most common types are Russian, Finnish, Roman, Turkish, Irish, Japanese, Chinese bath complexes. Each of them is characterized by its size, shape, design, air temperature, its humidity. Let us dwell in more detail on the most common types of these structures in the world.

Russian

The main feature of the Russian bath is that the body is steamed in warm air saturated with water vapor. Its temperature is 50-70 degrees and humidity 40-65%. Traditionally, the classical building consists of a dressing room, a washing department, a steam room. The steam room is the main place in the building. The main attribute is the oven. Only firewood is used for its firebox.

To maintain the temperature, a red-hot oven is poured with water and infusions of medicinal herbs, due to which a “light steam” is formed, after which it becomes easier to breathe in a humidified room. Larch boards are used to finish the walls and shelves. The shelves themselves are in the form of steps, located near the furnace. The temperature on the lower steps is 50 degrees, while on the highest steps it can reach 100 degrees and more.

In the washing room, buckets of water are usually placed, showers, if the area allows, they equip fonts and even build pools. Previously, the dressing room was used as a dressing room. Now it is equipped with a rest room, divided into different functional areas, used as a place for a comfortable and cozy pastime with family or friends.

Finnish

Home hallmark Finnish baths can be called that it warms up with dry steam. This type of sauna is the hottest. In the steam room, the air temperature reaches 70-100 degrees, while its humidity rarely exceeds 8-20%. It is low humidity that allows a person to withstand high temperatures, while its increase by 5-10% can lead to skin burns, in the worst case, to death.

Another characteristic feature of the sauna is the oven. Nowadays, an ordinary wood-burning stove is rarely installed here; instead, compact electric stoves made of stainless steel and galvanized alloys are used. Unlike the Russian bath, the stones here are not laid inside the stove, but on its surface. This arrangement provides faster heating, respectively, and cooling is much faster.

The duration of the first entry into the steam room should not exceed 3-5 minutes, so as not to overheat. After that, it is recommended to take a shower, plunge into the pool and relax in the relaxation room. Starting from the next visits, their duration can be gradually increased, but the maximum period of time should not exceed 15 minutes, even for experienced people, and their total number is 3-6 times.

Chinese

In China, there is a whole bath culture. The main component of the bath are wooden sandals and massage combined with manual therapy. The bath begins with a bathroom, in which there are several jacuzzis. In each individual bath, the water has a different temperature: cold, warm, hot. Aromatic oils and rose petals must be added to the water.

In the same room there are also special steam cabins. Unlike the Russian steam room, special steam generators are produced here, which are not able to give out the hot heat coming from traditional heaters. Some bathhouse projects include special snow rooms, where the air temperature is maintained at minus 10 degrees, and artificial snow is produced.

After visiting the steam room, a person should follow for a massage. Procedures begin with douche warm water, after which the attendant with a towel or sponge wrapped around his hand begins to rub the whole body. This procedure takes at least half an hour. After the body is covered with a cool towel, the back massage begins. Upon completion of the procedures, you can again go to the steam room, having previously poured milk and honey.

The main distinguishing feature of the Turkish bath is the high humidity in the steam room, it reaches 100% at relatively low temperatures of 45-50 degrees. As a result, a person is completely immersed in steam, all his muscles relax, blood circulation normalizes. In addition to the traditional warming up of the body, a visit to the hammam includes a number of additional procedures: peeling, wrapping, massage.

Wood is not used in the construction of the steam room. To finish the steam room, ceramic tiles are used, in more expensive options - natural marble. It is very comfortable to lie on the heated marble. Bath heating can be carried out in two ways, using water or electric heating. The first option is the most profitable, heating of all surfaces is carried out using pipes laid under the lining.

A mandatory attribute for a hammam is a steam generator that provides high humidity. The device is equipped with a special sensor, it automatically turns off the system if the room temperature exceeds 55 degrees. Thanks to this steam room device, the hair and skin are moisturized, the existing tan is not washed off the body, but, on the contrary, is fixed on it.

How to choose a building site

It is customary to begin the construction of a bath with choosing the most suitable place and drawing up a construction plan. When preparing calculations, it is important to comply with the rules and regulations that govern the conditions for the location of the steam room in the residential sector. A specific building must be located at a distance of at least 1 meter from the boundary of the neighboring site. If there are wooden buildings in the neighbors' yard, they should be more than 15 meters from the bathhouse.

A separate bathhouse or made as an extension to the house can only be built taking into account the rules, regulations regarding natural, vegetative, protected areas. The permissible distance to a reservoir is 5 meters, an artificial well with drinking water is 12 meters, tall trees are 4 meters, and a forest area is 15 meters.

In the House

Plan the construction of a steam room in the house should be at the design stage of the building. The bath will require special waterproofing, finishing, processing of materials. More often they make mini-rooms, but spacious enough for a comfortable stay. The advantages of planning a residential building along with a bathhouse include the following factors:

• Saving space in the garden;
• The ability to move freely around the rooms, without the need to go outside;
• Simplified furnace. All necessary materials are in the living quarters;
• Close proximity to the bathroom.

The disadvantages of organizing a bath right in the house include a high fire hazard. Even high-quality and systematic treatment of the premises with flame retardants does not provide 100% protection against fire and smoke. Additional insulation will also be required. Due to the high humidity, you will have to do complex ventilation. Good air exchange can be ensured by installing expensive internal equipment.

Extension to the house

It is possible to attach a bathhouse to a residential building only if the house is made of brick, foam blocks. In other cases, being too close can be unsafe. You can use a ready-made terrace or fill a separate section with a foundation for a sauna. Before laying the floor covering, it is necessary to consider good protection against moisture, high-quality sewer drain.

You can make a bath extension 2 years after the shrinkage of the main residential building. It is easy to bring communications into the room and make it heated. Among the shortcomings, a high risk of fire due to open flames can be noted. The danger increases if the frame part of the dacha extension is made of budget timber, poorly processed wood materials. Dirt and debris from the furnace easily enter the house, and high humidity destroys the wall covering, leading to inevitable frequent repairs.

Freestanding

The best option for building a bath on the site. The easiest way to make it from a log house. You will need a lightweight foundation, a beam for making a truss truss, the main material for the walls. Construction will take a minimum of time. You can safely implement your favorite design and furnace equipment with any characteristics.

Of the minuses, one can note the use of an impressive area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe area for construction and a large number of building materials, improvised means. Due to the remoteness from a residential building, heating costs will increase, and attempts to save money will lead to a deterioration in technical parameters.

What material is best to build

Many owners of suburban areas dream of their own bath. But to build it according to all the rules is not at all easy. Due to the presence of the furnace, very stringent requirements are imposed on such buildings. When choosing the main material, it is necessary to rely not only on the price and ease of building a home sauna, but also take into account compliance with the conditions inside the steam room.

Baths are built more often from wood or brick. These materials are able to provide high thermal insulation performance. They do not emit toxic compounds when heated, have high resistance to a humid environment. Each type has its own characteristics and is used for the construction of a steam room, taking into account its size, number of storeys, and climatic indicators.

From a wooden beam

The structure of wood perfectly retains heat, quickly removes toxins and gases. The light weight of the bath allows you to install building materials without additional reinforcement of the foundation. Special characteristics are given to the structure by the type of rock. Among the popular varieties are the following:

• Pine. Budget material has an attractive appearance, light shade and sufficient moisture resistance. Due to the release of resin during heating, the formation of mold is slowed down. It is not recommended to finish the steam room with pine, because when heated, thick juice is released, which can easily burn the skin.
• Linden. Due to the low moisture resistance, only varieties that have undergone special processing are suitable for the manufacture of baths. A material with excellent heat resistance begins to darken after a couple of years.
• Aspen. The density of the golden rock only increases with time, making it difficult to process and repair. Waterproof material perfectly retains heat, but is not included in the category of budget breeds.
• Alder. Boards with a beautiful reddish tint practically do not shrink, but quickly darken when in contact with moisture.

from brick

The main advantage of brickwork is durability. A bath made of such material will quietly last up to 20 years. There is no need for additional cladding, since the brick itself looks attractive. Also, an indisputable advantage in favor of this type of bath will be its incombustibility, the absence of fungus and mold on the walls.

The considerable weight of the brick involves the installation of a strip base under the steam room. This increases the construction time. First you need to pour the concrete foundation, wait for it to harden completely, then install the brick walls and roof in stages.

You can build a bath from red or gas silicate bricks. For any of the types, it will take at least 1 hour to warm up. Also, the building will need to be insulated from the inside. For laying out the hearth and other places in contact with open fire, fireclay bricks are used.

The brick does not allow air to pass through, so when building a bath, you need to take care of good ventilation.

From foam blocks

Affordable material will allow you to quickly build a strong building. Cellular blocks of the correct rectangular shape are processed in autoclaves, which gives them all the necessary characteristics. The light weight of the elements allows you to build a bath structure without additional strengthening of the foundation. Blocks are cut into pieces with a simple hacksaw. Installation takes place using a special cement adhesive.

The disadvantages include the hygroscopicity of the material. But special processing allows you to reduce the output of heat to the outside. For the construction of a bath, foam blocks of the lowest density and thermal conductivity are suitable.

Bath foundation

The base for the bath must be selected before erection, since it will no longer be possible to change it after pouring the concrete. The main task of the foundation is to evenly distribute the load on the ground. The service life of the entire building will depend on the type of construction. There are several options for concrete pouring, differing in the method of installation. When building steam rooms, the following options are most often used:

• Pile. Apply on soils slightly saturated with moisture. According to the principle of installation, it is divided into pile-screw, pile-driven, columnar. The selection of the appropriate installation technology depends on the extent and direction of the earth movement.
• Tape. A wide concrete strip is installed around the perimeter of the entire building. This approach simplifies the construction of the walls of the bath, it is not necessary to further strengthen the structure. You can make a purely tape or block base.
• Monolithic. Cement mortar is poured around the entire perimeter of the future building. The thickness of the solid slab must be at least 30 cm.

What to heat - the choice of furnace

When choosing a stove for a bath, first of all, you need to pay attention to power. This indicator should correspond to the volume of the steam room. Also, the presence of non-insulated areas, the material for making the door are taken into account. By type of fuel, stoves for a bath are as follows:

• Wood. The classic version of the firebox allows you to create a special atmosphere. For the ubiquitous tree, no additional communications are required. You can independently harvest all kinds of varieties to create a different effect.
• Gas. Units of impressive size can only be connected by a qualified gasman. In such stoves, there is no need to constantly throw firewood and control the flame. They don't have a firebox or an ash pan. Gas furnaces significantly increase the fire hazard of the entire structure.
• Electric furnaces. Miniature fixtures evenly and quickly warm up the room. Installations are absolutely safe, with great functionality. Due to the high consumption of electricity, the cost of operation will be high.

Step-by-step instructions for building a free-standing bath

Having decided to make a cozy bath in your summer cottage, it is not necessary to seek help from specialists. Even with little experience in construction, such a building can be organized independently. First, they draw up a project and select materials. At this stage, it is important to take into account the geographical location of the building and the conditions of its operation. The following erection procedures are performed step by step.

Site preparation for construction

When a suitable site is selected and the material is delivered, you can begin to prepare the site for construction. Depending on the specifics of the soil, the type of foundation is determined. The construction site must be level with a slight slope for water to drain.

First, they draw the outline of the future foundation and remove all vegetation from the soil. Then pegs are driven in around the perimeter, based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building. From the columns with nailed boards, a cast-off is made and the axial dimensions of the foundation contour are applied.

At the next stage, they begin to dig a pit, pits for pillars or trenches. When the required depth is reached, special shields are installed to prevent soil shedding. After excavation is completed, they are removed.

For a free-standing bath from a bar, a columnar foundation is suitable. The budget base will calmly withstand a relatively light wooden structure. Then they dig the required number of holes with a certain step. Be sure to have supports in the corners, at the intersection of the walls.

Crushed stone and sand fall asleep at the bottom of the pit. Then the asbestos-cement pipe is installed strictly vertically and fixed. Fittings are placed inside and a concrete solution is poured. A few days later, after waiting for complete solidification, a small half-brick wall is laid out between the pipes around the perimeter.

Building walls and roofing

More often, for the construction of a free-standing bath, a beam of 15 x 15 cm is used. They begin to install the first crown after laying the waterproofing and carefully processing the materials in contact with the base. There are several ways to join the bars: on rectangular dowels, in a root tenon, using the dovetail method. When building walls, the crowns are connected using special wooden, metal pins - dowels.

The next step is to install the roof. First, a suitable roof shape is selected, the rafters are installed according to the plan. Then the supports are erected and securely fixed. Lathing boards are attached to them, covered with waterproofing material, insulation, and the selected roofing material is mounted.

Heat and vapor barrier

Regardless of the type of stove chosen, any steam room will always have high temperature and humidity. The insulating layer helps to retain heat for a long time. The following types of materials are suitable for use in the construction of a bath:

• Film. Dense webs can be smooth, rough with reinforcement. This insulation option is cheap.
• Membrane. Non-woven material is laid on top of the insulation. It perfectly protects from condensate and moisture.
• Foil sheets. A special coating of foil, metal lavsan effectively retains heat in a steam room of any size.

Interior finishing work - what materials are better to use

Internal finishing work must begin with the communications device. A sewerage point, a place for the passage of water pipes, electricity should be laid at the design stage.

After installation work after laying communications, they proceed to the manufacture of a finishing floor. It can be concrete or wood. Cement pouring will be durable, after hardening it is additionally tiled. Wooden flooring is made leaky, a small gap is left between the lags and floor boards.

After the windows and doorway are installed, you can proceed to the interior decoration of the walls of the bath. The use of synthetic materials is excluded, since when heated they emit harmful substances. The best type of finish is natural wood. It can be a polished edged board, blockhouse, lining. When choosing suitable option it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of each breed and the characteristics of the varieties.

Installing the stove and shelves

Shelves for relaxing in the bath should fit the size of the room and be made of wood materials. First, a stable frame is made of timber, then polished boards are attached to it.

Each owner chooses the oven himself, depending on personal preferences. If it is a heavy unit, it is installed on a special foundation. Installation is carried out according to all fire safety requirements. All wooden structures near open flames must be well insulated.

Bath design and decoration

A huge selection of finishing materials allows you to create a stylish interior indoors, realizing the most daring idea. When choosing the right style, one should not forget about functionality and convenience. Excessive piling up of unnecessary items will create a feeling of heaviness and isolation.

For decoration in the Russian style, wood items are suitable. Buckets, wooden ladles can be placed on stands and shelves in the steam room. Wicker rugs will serve as a decor for the floor in the rest room, and wooden grates in the washing room. The walls will be decorated with oak brooms and hats for a steam room with cheerful inscriptions.

Chalet style suggests the presence of only female or male items. These can be tea utensils, bouquets of fragrant herbs, beautiful tablecloths or hunter's accessories. Modern style will not do without elements of luxury. The ceilings in the steam room and the rest room are made high, multi-tiered. Successful accents are created by lighting.

What furniture to choose for a bath

The amount of furniture in the bath depends on its size. To organize a dressing room, it is enough to install a wooden hanger. The number of hooks can be calculated based on the total number of visitors, 3-4 per person. To store towels, detergents, sheets, you can provide a small wall cabinet. It is desirable to install a bench under the hanger, which will serve as a place for folding clothes while changing clothes.

In the rest room in the dining area must be present wooden table surrounded by chairs or benches. When organizing a place to relax, you can provide a sofa, easy chairs. Shelves should be placed on the walls for storing dishes and bath accessories, while it is better not to use a bulky closed cabinet.

A sauna created without the involvement of masters will make any owner of a private house proud of himself. Knowing the theory of building a steam room with dry heat, you can build a sauna with your own hands.

Sauna features

A simple sauna looks like a room where you can steam, and therefore its owners cannot boast of special comfort. However, it is this version of the bath that is used most often, since many people dream of a Finnish bath in a small house outside the city, but not everyone has the opportunity to make a sauna in a separate building.

The steam room is small

A sauna with a steam room can be slightly complicated. In this case, it is necessary to add a shower room and a dressing room to it, if only there is enough space for this. If there are no restrictions on the area, then nothing prevents you from building a sauna with a full set, so that your stay in it will turn into a good rest with health benefits.

The steam room is adjacent to the room where the pool is located.

Equipped in a separate building, the sauna consists of the following sectors:

• veranda;
• dressing room;
• steam room;
• dressing room;
• artificial reservoir;
• lounge with a billiard room (possibly).

Photo gallery: Finnish sauna in the house

This room is no bigger than a regular shower room. To create such a Finnish bath, you need a lot of space. This sauna layout allows you to relax with pleasure If there is a rest room nearby, then the sauna can be visited without problems in several visits. Varinat is suitable for a lover to splash in the bath and take a steam bath Perhaps in such a steam room it will be a little crowded Wide sauna benches are made in the shape of a Christmas tree The bathroom leading to the steam room has a place to change and relax

Construction preparation

It is more expedient to make a Finnish sauna in a wooden structure. Wood guarantees steam exchange between the sauna and outside air. If, however, it turns out to take only a concrete or brick structure under the sauna, then you should not worry. Creating the necessary microclimate in such rooms is not a problem, you just need to guess to sheathe the space inside the building with boards.

The most reasonable solution is to equip the basement of a wooden house for a sauna. The main thing is that on the basement floor it is possible to achieve natural circulation air. In addition, only a basement is suitable for building a sauna, in which sewer pipes can be laid. Having made a Finnish bath on the basement floor, you do not have to take up space from the rooms of the building.

The basement area allows you to make both a dressing room and a relaxation room in the sauna

When the basement cannot be turned into a sauna, it is worth considering placing the steam room in the bathroom.

A room intended for water procedures, like a pool, is created outside the walls of the steam room. Therefore, it is not advisable to carry water into the room where they are steamed. But the sewer drain in the steam room may be needed if it is planned that the floor will not be washed in the usual way but with a jet of water from a hose.

The Finnish bath takes up less space than the Russian one. In the sauna, unlike a regular bath, 4 people can easily accommodate 3.3 m². A large company will be comfortable in a steam room with an area of ​​at least 4.5 m².

Despite the size of 3 * 4 meters, the sauna has a washing room and a corridor

The standard width of the sauna is 2 meters and the length is 2.4 meters. From floor to ceiling in the steam room there should be a distance of no more than 210 cm. Otherwise, the balance of humidity and temperature in the sauna will be disturbed, which will lead to the appearance of a hot draft that can burn the skin. In a steam room with a height of 2.1 m, doors should be installed that will be installed literally 20 cm below the ceiling.

If it is planned to build a steam room for one person, then it is worth considering the option of a small sauna 0.8x0.8 meters with a height of 210 cm.

This sauna looks like a cabin

The choice of building materials

The first thing to take care of when preparing for the construction of a sauna is the purchase of a suitable insulation. As a material that retains heat, when arranging a Finnish bath, it is customary to use stone wool rolled up or pressed into slabs.

This material is less susceptible to moisture

The insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film that prevents the material from absorbing moisture. The best way to cope with this task is a special foil cloth, which does not allow either steam or water to pass through itself, as a result of which it serves as a barrier to the formation of condensate.

Sauna walls are usually sheathed with clapboard made of dried aspen, African wood, alder, linden or cedar. It is preferable to choose material for the creation of which aspen was cut down, because this tree has a beneficial effect on the body. To finish the walls in the sauna with cedar clapboard is recommended for those who love the smell of the forest.

Groove and notch material is easy to mount on the wall

It is more reasonable to create a sauna ceiling from pine or spruce beams, protect it from heat loss with a heater with a vapor barrier film and cover it with sheathing building materials. A layer of matter that does not allow heat to escape from the room through the ceiling should be 1.5 times thicker than the layer of insulation that is embedded in the walls of the Finnish bath.

The floor of the sauna has long ceased to be covered with wood materials, which quickly rot under the influence of moisture. As a floor covering for a Finnish sauna, it is more reasonable to use ceramic tiles that do not deteriorate in a humid environment. The surface of this material will not seem cold to the feet if rugs are laid on top of it.

List of materials

To build a sauna in the house you will need:

• ceramic tile;
• floor beams with a thickness of about 80 cm;
• wooden slats 5 × 5 cm (for the frame of the steam room);
• bars with a section of 3 × 4 cm and 3 × 6 cm;
• concrete mortar;
• tile adhesive;
• insulation;
• aluminium foil;
• vapor barrier film;
• lining 2–3 cm thick;
• tempered glass door;
• nails 8–12 cm long;
• self-tapping screws;
• push pins (for attaching foil);
• bench boards.

Usually, someone who wants to make a sauna on their own has difficulty calculating the number of tiles. To determine how much flooring is required, you need to refer to the formula N \u003d Sp / Spl, whereN denotes the number of tiles, Sp is the floor area in m², and Spl is the area of ​​one tile in m².

Let's assume that the length and width of the sauna are 2 and 2.4 meters, respectively, and the size of the tile is 40 × 40 cm. First, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone cell of the material is determined: Spl = 0.4 * 0.4 = 0.16 m². After that, the floor area of ​​the sauna is found: Sp \u003d 2 * 2, 4 \u003d 4.8 m². And now they will find out the required number of tiles: N \u003d 4, 8/0, 16 \u003d 30 pcs. Of course, ceramic tiles need to be purchased with a margin, in case some elements are damaged.

Thanks to the original coloring of the floor tiles, the sauna can be made unusual

How much lining is required is also difficult to determine by eye. The total area for sheathing is found by the formula: S \u003d (2AH + 2BH) - (ahn + bh1n1). A is the length of the room; H is the height of the room; B - the width of the room; a - window width; b - door width; h, h1 - window and door height; n, n1 - the number of windows and doors. After that, it is calculated what is the area of ​​one wooden panel, that is, the length of one element of the lining is multiplied by its width, and then the area of ​​​​the groove, which is not included in the surface of the skin, is subtracted from the resulting figure. Now, in order to find out how many pieces of lining are needed, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsheathing is divided by the area of ​​​​one panel.

Required Tools

You need to build a sauna with the help of certain tools:

• building level;
• plumb;
• circular saw;
• conventional hammer and rubber-coated hammer;
• circular saw;
• drills;
• screwdriver;
• electric jigsaw.

Building a sauna with your own hands - step by step instructions

To make the sauna cozy and functional, its construction is carried out in stages:

1. They remove the old floor covering (if any) or level the site, create a concrete screed, on which, after waiting for the site to dry, they lay tiles;

   In order for the tile to lay flat, it is tapped with a hammer

2. From the slats they construct the frame of the cabin - the future steam room. To do this, beams are attached to the wall and floor. First, the supports are mounted in the corners, and the following elements are placed at a distance almost equal to the width of the insulation used. Horizontal beams are attached to the top of the vertical racks, making the structure reliable;

   The joint will support the walls of the steam room

3. Holes are drilled in the frame for wires and ventilation pipes. A fire damper is located inside the ventilation duct, which will not allow the heat from the steam room to go to other rooms;
4. Heat-insulating material is placed in the cells of the frame made of laths, and aluminum foil is placed on top of it. Matter is necessarily attached so that the mirror surface is outside;

   Foil keeps the heat in the room perfectly

5. The installation of a horizontal crate is carried out, for which the bars are fixed on the vertical racks of the skeleton in a horizontal position. Each subsequent bar is mounted at a distance of 40 cm from the previous one. From a 3 × 6 cm beam, transverse frames are created, which are necessary to transfer the weight of the benches not to the sheathing, but to the main frame;

   The design is needed to fix materials

6. A supply ventilation valve is fixed on the ceiling, around which foil is attached. Then the installation of ceilings is carried out, and the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sauna is covered with clapboard;
7. At a distance of a meter from the floor, the first bench is mounted, a step is attached just below it, which will lead to the lower bench, fixed at a height of 65 cm;

   When installing benches use the level

8. Doors are installed in the sauna, a stove is placed, creating a fence made of wooden blocks around it. The fence should be at a distance of 5 cm from the heater;

   Glass is the best option as wood swells

9. For the stove, a socket is mounted in the wall of the sauna. After that, the sauna is equipped with a switch and a lamp;
10. The benches of a Finnish can are treated with sandpaper and cleaned with a sponge moistened with soda solution;
11. Clean stones are laid on the stove heater - porphyrite or jadeite.

    Guardrail protects against burns

Taking a steam bath and warming up in a sauna are completely different procedures. The fact is that the Russian bath gives hot hot steam, and the Finnish - dry. Therefore, time is spent differently in the sauna.

Optimum temperature

According to the rules, the air temperature in the sauna should be between 85 and 90 degrees. In order for such an atmosphere of a Finnish bath to be beneficial, and not harmful, when entering the room, you do not need to immediately sit on the upper bench. It is necessary to give the body time to get used to the hot environment, sitting on a bench that is close to the floor. In order for the high temperature to have a positive effect on health, it is recommended to rest in the sauna for 15 minutes.

To control the temperature in the sauna, a thermometer is mounted

Visiting Rules

In order for the heat of the sauna to have a beneficial effect on the body, you need to do the following:

• before entering the steam room, rinse in the shower and dry the body well with a towel;
• sit in the sauna in a special hat made of felt or felt, because the head must be protected from high temperatures;
• bask in the steam room in several visits, that is, several times to give the body the opportunity to take a break from the heat for about 10 minutes;
• before the next entry into the steam room, it is recommended to drink cool water;
• take a steam bath, taking a lying position, which allows you to completely relax your muscles and makes your heart rate calmer;
• after leaving the steam room, you should take a shower.

Video: Finishing a Finnish bath

To make a Finnish bath in the house, if you purchase the necessary materials and study the manufacturing instructions, any person who likes to do housework can. When creating a sauna in a building, one should not forget about the organization of power supply, ventilation system and sewerage.

Hello, dear site visitors! We continue the series of articles from our readers In this article, the author shares his personal experience in building a log bath with his own hands. Construction is not finished yet, so we wish him success! If you have recommendations and questions for the author, you are welcome in the comments.

Part 1. Foundation

For the construction of the bath, I chose a relatively flat area with a slope of 20 cm on a six-meter segment. First of all, after preliminary marking, he made a cut of the fertile layer over the entire area of ​​​​the future foundation. This is required to exclude the processes of decay of plant residues and other organic matter in the basement.

The site is dominated by sandy soil, so the best option would be a height of 50 cm from the base and a width of 40 cm. The outline of the foundation is marked with ropes that are attached to improvised corners of the inner and outer perimeter. To mark the perimeter, I took cuttings of boards about 70 cm long and drove them into the ground, screwed horizontal shelves with protruding screws for attaching the rope from above with self-tapping screws. It is better to choose a rope that is not prone to stretching, it will be easier to work with this.

In addition to the lengths of the sides of the future foundation, the diagonals between the corners must be verified, which must be equal to each other with a tolerance of plus / minus 3-4 cm. You can read more about how to mark the foundation in this article. We continue to remove the fertile layer and dig a trench to create a sand cushion.

As a result, we get a fully prepared "pit", where the bottom of the trenches is almost horizontal (we check with the building level). The depth of the trenches is 20 cm, from the soil level at the highest point of the site 40 cm, at the lowest - 30 cm.

The dimensions of the foundation are determined by the center of the intersection of the logs of the log house. This will be the center line. If the diameter of the logs is about 20-22 cm, then we retreat on both sides of the center line, respectively, by 15-20 cm. This will be required to obtain "shelves" for attaching floor logs and rain tides. In addition, the error is practically eliminated when the logs, due to miscalculations of the foundation, fall outward or inward “hanging” in the air.

The bath is connected to the strip foundation in order to exclude multidirectional shifts of the bath and the furnace. The size of the furnace platform was chosen as 120 * 120 cm, as the average for installing metal furnaces under brick lining.

We start laying sand in the trenches. At the same time, we moisten and compact the sand. We pour water until puddles appear, after the moisture is absorbed, we begin to tamp. The process is repeated 3-4 times until your shoes leave no marks on the compacted surface of the sand.

A day later, after the completion of work, we once again pass the entire base under the foundation with a rammer. Of course, you can use a simpler option and connect a tamping machine to work, this will not speed up the process much. I have the simplest option: a beam of 100 mm, a sole of 20x20 mm and a handle. The appearance of the finished base and manual tamper is shown below.

On top of the prepared site under the foundation, we pour a sand cushion to level the horizon and raise the site above the level of the site in order to prevent water from entering under the foundation.

If you hire a concrete truck, then take care of additional strengthening of the formwork with diagonal stops outside and inside the proposed foundation. The pressure that is created when the mixture is supplied can demolish an insufficiently strong structure. The same applies to pouring the mixture from a concrete mixer. Only in this case, you need to strengthen the place where you will drain or simply move the concrete mixer around the perimeter.

It is better to pour the entire volume of concrete at one time, so as not to get the effect of a layered cake. We cover the top of the foundation with a film that keeps our foundation moist in order to avoid cracks in the concrete. The foundation is periodically watered with water, not allowing it to dry out.

After 7-10 days, we remove the formwork, unscrewing the self-tapping screws, which will also go into work at subsequent stages. The finished foundation looks like this. Layout: 2x6 meters - veranda; 4x4 meters - rest room; 2x2 meters - washing room; 2x2 meters - steam room. The location of the ventilation holes is approximately 20 cm from the ground level, if necessary, you can buy plugs to close the holes in the winter.

The approximate quantity and price of materials used in the construction of the foundation are shown in the table below.

Part 2. Installation of a log house and a roof

For dressing a log house 6x4 meters and a chopped veranda, you will need 25 bags of moss. When buying, make sure that the weight of a bag of compacted moss is approximately 20 kg. Moss must be elastic, that is, have optimal moisture content.

We use “cuckoo flax”, which we collect in late autumn, when all living creatures go to “wintering” in the soil and there is no risk of grabbing a snake with a bunch of moss. A small amount of sphagnum moss is allowed, which is shorter and crumbles when dry. If only sphagnum is fully used, then after a while it will simply fall out of the grooves.

The length of the strands of moss should be at least 30 cm, so that when caulking it is possible to twist the ends and ensure the sealing of the grooves. When drying, we sort the material, choosing twigs, foreign plants and cones from it. By the way, if the bump falls into the groove, then at a certain humidity it opens with such an effort that is enough to lift the log and arrange a “cold bridge”. This is how log house installers did in the old days, and even now this situation is not uncommon if the owner “offends” with money.

We install rolling logs. I have a small gap between the foundation and the log house, so I used half a log on one side and a 100 mm beam on the other.

We punch the place of contact of the log with the roofing material with moss.

Errors were revealed that caused the unwillingness of the cutters to do their work efficiently. The grooves were cut with a chainsaw, which made the gaps in the logs very large. Look, the edges of the grooves fit snugly against the body of the log, but in fact there is a void inside. Because of this, the amount of moss that will go to the caulk increases greatly. And this is if you do the caulking yourself, and the "shabashniks" only do the external processing, no one will break through the insides.

Material	Volume/quantity	Price
Edged fence board "inch" on the crate, 300 mm	1 m 3	4500 rubles
Wood screws 50 mm	2 kg	300 rubles
Moss	25 bags	6250 rubles
log cabin	1 piece	72000 rubles
Board 50 * 150 six meters	14 pieces	3600 rubles
Metal tile, thickness 0.5 mm, length 4.2 meters (additional ridge and wind protection)	12 sheets	31000 rubles
Steam-Wind-insulation	1 roll	800 rubles
Grooved board 20 mm	1 m 3	8500 rubles
"Belinka" base	2.5 liters	400 rubles
"Belinka" glazing composition	2.5 liters	600 rubles
Total:		127950 rubles

Part 3

The most simple, but tedious work on caulking a log house. We use a mallet, iron and wooden caulks. An iron one with a blade thickness of 3 mm and a width of 50 mm, a wooden one is made of hardwood (I have dry birch) and is a consumable.

The original view of the groove.

We fill the moss into the groove with a construction trowel. Previously used a spatula, but it quickly failed and was not as elastic. Feel free to hammer the groove completely. There is an opinion among the inhabitants that there is no need to make the seams dense and uniform, they say, the temperature in the bath is enough to compensate for the losses. But judge for yourself, drafts in the steam room and washing room will not add comfort and firewood consumption will be 2-3 times higher.

We hammer the resulting roller with a wooden caulk.

If necessary, if the groove is not tight enough, we make another roller of moss and punch it until we feel the hardness of the wood when struck with an iron caulk.

The final view of the caulked groove.

To prevent birds from dragging moss and for aesthetics, we close the groove with a 100 mm wide jute tape, which will subsequently be treated with impregnation and glazing composition to match the color of the log. Special "craftsmen" put logs on only one jute or linen, but this is unacceptable for a bath. If we have constant humidity in the house, then vaporization is welcome in the bath. Flax and jute absorb moisture, but do not dry out for a long time, the grooves rot and become moldy.

We get logs prepared for grinding.

We especially carefully caulk the corners to prevent cold air from entering the bathhouse. Work, if you do not hire specialists, will cost nothing. When attracting "shabashniki" - from 70 to 150 rubles per linear meter.

Part 4. Sanding logs

So, the caulking is completed, the moss is filled and compacted in the grooves, we proceed to prepare the log house for painting. At present, the logs look very unpresentable - traces of a planer, chips and pulled out wood chips. In addition, the logs are strongly "tanned" in the sun and under the influence of slanting rains, and some of the knots require sampling and sealing with mastic.

The ends of logs that were damaged during storage and transportation also require processing. Here the most loose wood, respectively, a high probability of decay and further destruction of the log.

Logging tools:

• Bulgarian;
• petal emery wheel;
• soft brush from a mop;
• putty knife.

Bulgarian used the cheapest - 1200 rubles, made in China. It is worth noting that it withstood all the tests with honor and remained operational even after passing 70 square meters of walls (we add to this the semicircular profile of the log). The only inconvenience is cleaning the stator, rotor and the inside of the grinder from wood dust. Of course, you can put a stocking on the instrument, but the incoming air is not enough for cooling. By the way, the work is very dusty and immediately stock up on glasses, closed on all sides, and respiratory protection equipment - a respirator is enough. Working with a grinder requires utmost attention. High speeds and a removed protection cover can play a trick on you. One has only to lose vigilance, intercept too quickly to the grinding wheel, and you are guaranteed an injury. I twice went through the same place on my arm - the glove to shreds and the skin torn to the meat.

The grinding wheel was used with grain 80. Through testing and selection, I settled on this value - grain 60 leaves too noticeable marks, and grain 100 clogs very quickly. The approximate consumption of petal circles is 1 piece per 3 square meters. You can use the circle further, but the pace of work slows down, and you just get tired.

Attention bonus! I accidentally found that if you walk around the concrete of the foundation with a circle clogged with dust and tar, then sandpaper cleared and the circle is ready for work again.

With no skill and when working with all caution, you can sand 6-10 squares of a wall in a day. The prices of "shabashnikov" fluctuate between 400-500 rubles per square, and plus they do not stand on ceremony with consumables. Pay attention to resin pockets. If you expose such an area, then treat it with a solvent, otherwise this resin will then come out even through a layer of paint.

I started working from the smallest wall, the logs are changing before our eyes. Faced with the problem that when processing grooves, the edge of the grinding wheel leaves cuts on the lower log. But with further processing, the cuts grind well, and no traces remain.

Especially a lot of fuss with the corners, the high speed of the grinder and tightness slow down the process. Where the circle does not reach, you will have to switch to a slower processing method - a chisel.

When the grinding wheel is almost "sat down", we pass the ends of the logs. It is irrational to use a new circle for the ends - you will have to throw it out after a dozen logs.

We seal the ends with mastic on wood. At first I used the color “pine”, but then I realized that it was more economical to use white, since there would be painting under it.

After grinding, an interesting structure of the tree appears, intricate patterns run throughout the log. The knots and irregularities of the log add a certain fundamentality to the log bath, and I was even glad when there were especially knotty specimens.

To get an idea of ​​how the wall would look after painting, I stopped and prepared the logs. According to all the aggregate features (quality and price), I chose the composition under the Belinka brand. Pre-treated with Base, the drying time of which is 24 hours, and passed over the polished surface with the first layer of glazing composition No. 24 (rosewood). Agree, enchanting beauty! If you want to get a surface that is smooth to the touch, then after the first layer of the composition and its drying, go over the log manually with a “zero” sandpaper. This is true on the railings and on the front of the bath, where guests love to run their hands along the wall and appreciate the work of the master.

The drying time of the first layer is 12 hours, to be sure, I survived the day and covered with the second layer. A dark noble matte sheen appeared. Another trick - after using the glazing composition, a little pigment remains at the bottom of the jar. We dilute it with a solvent to a very pale appearance and pass through the second layer of the dried coating. You can do the procedure at any time after the coating. As a result, we get a surface that resembles a log additionally impregnated with wax. Very pretty.

Along the way, the ends were processed with a glazing composition No. 11 (white), which favorably sets off the work already done.

The result completely satisfied me, we continue the polishing that we started. Since you will do all the work yourself, the quality will be at the highest level. If the hired workers can ignore flaws, then the master himself will torment himself for even the smallest oversight. For example, knowing that somewhere below the log I missed a cut, like a criminal returning to the scene of a crime, I examined my “jamb” again and again. Until it was corrected.

The log cabin is getting more and more beautiful. Do not forget to clean the logs from dust with a brush after work.

In the next photo, the logs processed by the Base, and the ends sealed with white mastic.

Having appreciated the color and texture of the painted logs, I realized that inside the veranda it would look a little dark, and I experimented with coloring the log with composition No. 11 (white).

White paint retains the texture of the sanded log, and I decided to completely paint the veranda. Through the first layer, a slight yellowness of pine appears, and there is no shine. Very similar to just bleached wood. But the second layer works wonders. There is brilliance and a certain completeness. By the way, buy "Belinka Azure", as the white "Belinka Top Azure" is designed for window frames and costs much more.

Now the bath, with the exception of one wall, is covered in one layer and looks like a house with a negative Khokhloma painting. Pleased with the upper cross beam - a knotty Christmas tree, which gives the structure a look of conformity with the natural style.

We continue the construction of the bath and proceed to the stage of flooring on the veranda. There is a roof over the room, but the absence of a pediment (for the airiness of the building) does not prevent drops of slanting rains from entering. In winter, snow blowing and its subsequent melting during a thaw is not ruled out. Therefore, we will pay special attention to the preservation of boards and logs, as well as to making the surface of the floors water-repellent along with a good appearance.

Part 5. Floor of the veranda

Boards 50 * 150 set on edge will serve as lags. According to the universal formula, the thickness of the board is multiplied by a factor of 20, and we get the step between the lags in my case 1000 mm. But I decided to somewhat strengthen the structure and placed the logs in 600 mm increments. It turned out like this.

On the veranda (conditionally 2 meters by 6 meters) I bought 16 six-meter boards, taking into account the lag and a margin of one board. It cost me 4300 rubles and 500 rubles for shipping. Some boards showed blue and mold, which is easily removed by sanding and bleaching. Worst of all, several boards are affected by the woodworm. Its larvae made several through holes, which I then sealed with mastic. On examination, I didn’t find more living creatures and calmed down on that - after drying, the wood attracts them little, and treatment with an antiseptic and biocide will discourage the beetle from any desire to approach my veranda. I laid a vapor-permeable film on the ground inside the foundation so that no plant would get a chance to germinate inside the veranda. The boards were marked and sawn in accordance with their location.

After that, I removed the boards, numbering them according to their location, and started processing the logs. I used a vigorous antiseptic of Yaroslavl production. I am a little familiar with the preparation of antiseptics and the composition of the purchased products inspired confidence in me. Preservation of wood is declared at 45 years old, subject to the impregnation technology. It is required to use 500 grams of solution per square meter, i.e. We apply the first layer, and after 1-2 hours the second. The antiseptic is yellow, so the coating is clearly visible. When dry it becomes dark brown.

Next came the turn of the boards. Previously, on the surface located below and on the sides of the boards, I passed with a petal emery wheel, fixed on a grinder to remove the pile. So we provide better absorption of the antiseptic. Then we grind the front surface with a circle with a grain of 100. I also used my long-suffering grinder of the lowest price category. If you are afraid to make potholes and holes, then try grinding part of the board with a clogged circle to gain a little experience. Don't forget to chamfer the edges of the board.

Attention bonus! To make the floor surface perfect to the touch and pleasant for the feet, walk along the sanded board with a mild soapy solution. Apply with a brush or roller. When dried, the risen residual pile will become hard and it is easy to knock it down with a sandpaper even in manual mode.

The boards are laid on logs with a gap of 4 mm. As a "standard" we take an ordinary nail, which we put vertically between the boards.

Since my boards are of natural humidity, they can be somewhat drier, that is, they are likely to warp during the drying process. That is why I decided to use not self-tapping screws for fastening, but screw nails. A self-tapping screw is a weaker fastener for transverse loads and can simply burst. The head of the nail, so that there is no rust and its spread to the boards, is covered with mastic on wood.

See the nail? And he is here!

In the process of laying the boards, I begin processing them. I had the choice of using Alpina outdoor terrace oil or Belinka glazing as a coating. I liked the second option better. Firstly, that the oil that the Belinka Base penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from moisture. Secondly, the oil tinting and Belinka No. 24 are almost similar. Thirdly, oil and glazing composition, which does not have high resistance to abrasion, should be renewed every two years. And fourthly, Belinka is cheaper. A large flow of visitors is not planned on the veranda and the maximum load is walking in slippers or barefoot.

After the first layer of the Base has dried (24 hours), apply the second layer and let it dry for another day. And the culminating moment comes - coating with Belinka No. 24 glazing compound. If you want more effect and shine of the floor, then get Top Azure.

–––––– Half a year has passed ––––––

Since my last story of the past, quite a lot of time, and the construction of the bathhouse was gradually moving forward. Little by little, because you have to do everything yourself. I don't trust scammers. I contacted them twice (assembling the log house and installing the roof) and was very dissatisfied with the result.

I looked at the bathhouse from the side and decided that another pediment was needed to protect the veranda space from rain. He laid the lining in different directions, leaving something like a window. There will be a stained glass window - polycarbonate with a pattern applied with special stained glass paints.

The fit of the boards to the pediment turned out to be quite tight, so I will do without an additional plinth, I will leave it as it is.

The pediment is painted in the same color as the bath, a side board with a claim to carving is installed. The cost of the work was: lining - 2500 rubles; self-tapping screws - 200 rubles; paint - 200 rubles; wind carved board - 800 rubles. I think that it is quite inexpensive for such a result.

Last year, I didn’t have time to paint the roof lining, I just covered it with a base coat, the temperatures started to drop below zero. Just the other day, having chosen a period without rain, I walked with two layers of white Belinka. I liked the result, but I think to fix it with a third layer.

And so, the new bath construction season has opened. In autumn, I managed to capture a few fine days with a positive temperature, which finally made it possible to make a window and a door. The technology for preparing openings is standard. We mark and cut out with the formation of a spike on the log. For the window opening, I used a bar 100 * 200, and for the door frame, a bar 100 * 250. At the sawmill, they met me halfway and made two six-meter blanks on special order. They took quite ridiculous money - about 2500 rubles with delivery.

On the spot, the beam was sawn into the required segments. The window opening turned out to be clean 50 * 50 centimeters, the door clean 70 * 160. So we really implement the old commandment - bow to the bathhouse when you enter. The upper level of the threshold will be 15 centimeters from the floor to keep warm in winter. I sawed a groove on the beam according to the size of the spike on the log, plus a centimeter in width in each direction. I fixed a rolled insulation 20 centimeters wide on the spike, it seems linen, I don’t remember what I bought. The vertical beam went to the stretch, and horizontal segments were used as struts. The gap from the top pigtail to the log is about 3 cm, filled with moss. There is also moss under the threshold and window sill, which, after installing all the components, was compacted to the state of almost a log.

A quarter is selected on the window for ease of installation of plastic. Spacers are placed in the door, since during the natural drying of the timber, deformation is possible.

What is planned. The window is plastic with imitation of division into smaller windows. The photo shows my hooliganism, so to speak - instead of a window, I inserted foam plastic and made markings for the future product with insulating tape.

The door is metal with a heater on a cloth and jambs. In the company where the doors are made, the director is my good friend, we discussed all the details and, I hope, a good product will turn out. On the door leaf there will be a wooden lining 1.5 centimeters thick. According to the overlay, I will perform aging of wood, I will make an imitation of forged hinges and wooden cross bars. But this is in the future, and now he is engaged in the improvement of the veranda.

We have one craftsman who makes tables and benches of fairly good quality and quite inexpensively. This headset cost me only 7.5 thousand rubles. By tradition, I covered it with the Belinka base, Rosewood glazing compound and deck varnish from the same company.

Somewhere on the hundredth or two hundredth jump from the level of the veranda, I realized that I needed a porch. The plans were to make some kind of forged product with wooden steps, but for now I decided to limit myself to a temporary hut. Although the makeshift turned out to be quite nice and will still serve me until I get bored. On the sidewalls I used logs that remained from cutting out openings, on the steps a board 50 * 150. On the base he laid stones from a nearby quarry.

And now about the pressing. Firstly, I spend the caulk inside the log house. The logs have already settled down in place. What is possible - dried up, what is needed - led what it wanted - settled in its permanent place. Accordingly, gaps appeared inside that require careful sealing.

External examination confirmed the good quality of the caulk. Nothing has fallen out, the birds haven't messed up, and the moss is lying as planned. When sawing openings, the moss was packed into one dense and hard strip, it was even difficult to make out, but it is good to fill cracks with such strips. I made another birch caulk. The shoulder blade turned out to be wider and larger, a two-kilogram sledgehammer perfectly suited it. Moss flies into the cracks with a whistle, and where the log lay too tightly I use birch wedges. The process is lengthy, but mandatory if you do not want to bathe in felt boots in winter. Secondly, I conducted an audit of the foundation. There are light chips on the outside, but these are sagging during pouring and do not affect the quality. However, if I have free time, I will plaster and cover with facade paint. Manufacturer and color not yet chosen. Last year I installed low tides, which performed well even with a serious snow load. And, thirdly, I will count the snow holders. When last year a crust formed on the roof after a freezing rain, and 50-60 centimeters of snow fell on it, it was a good surprise in the form of a huge dense snowdrift near the bathhouse after the first thaw.

Well, I’ll tell you what I do to keep my bath warm and dry. A month ago I bought a metal stove from Izistim for 58,000 rubles. I chose for a long time, tediously, I read all the reviews and realized that this is what I need. Its parameters can be found on the official website of the company, where given detailed description. While the stove is standing on the street in front of the bathhouse, 130 kg of metal still needs to be thought out how to carefully drag it, especially since I still have no floors and 600 pieces of bricks are stacked on the ground. It turned out that these stoves are made literally right next to me, so I had the honor to communicate directly with the manufacturers, who really helped with advice and recommendations. The pipe is planned to be adjacent to the stainless sleeve. The structure will be about 5 meters. I ordered a stainless pipe with a wall thickness of 1 mm in the same place, in the Izistim company. Just a week later I received the order. Laser welding, high quality and reasonable price. In terms of money, the pleasure amounted to 11,500 full-weight rubles for a set of pipes of 5 meters. CRAFT company.

V full set includes a tee, a plug for cleaning the pipe from soot and removing condensate and a type of adapter with a platform that will allow you to firmly fix the chimney in a brick pipe. The design on the right in the photo is a horizontal pipe section from the stove to the chimney. Heat-resistant stainless steel 4 mm thick, made in EasySteam for 4300 rubles.

I bought Kostroma clay brick of grade 150, which is enough for lining the furnace. The geometry of the brick is normal, if necessary, the edges can be rounded to give the products a more interesting shape. If you want a more beautiful brick, then buy Vitebsk brand 200. Each brick cost me 25 rubles apiece.

I didn’t bother with clay, which needs to be mined and prepared somewhere else, since I don’t have any special skills. I bought a ready-made mix "Makarov's Furnace House" produced by Kostroma, Gzhel color. They also have a white clay mix for aesthetes. Pechnikov could not be found - everyone is busy. The cost for the masters starts from 40 rubles for a brick for lining and 60 rubles for a brick on a pipe. You can calculate the cost yourself. I will do it myself, although the work will be delayed.

Part 6. Furnace

“And the battle begins again” - we continue the construction of the bathhouse and the improvement of the internal space. The heart of the bath is the oven. My wishes for the climate of the future steam room and other rooms are extremely simple and unpretentious. Firstly, the legs and ears should be warm even in winter, and not bathe with a hard plus in the head area and at the same time in felt boots so that the legs do not freeze. Secondly, the inertia of the sauna stove must be present in order to be able to stop heating and take a steam bath without running around for firewood with constant support. desired temperature. It is desirable that the heat in the bath was two or three days to dry the premises. And, thirdly, hot water should not boil in the steam room, but is located in the washing compartment in the remote tank.

As I already wrote, the Sochi stove from the Izistim company was chosen with a hinged heat exchanger for heating water.

The heat exchanger is equipped with inlet and outlet pipes with a diameter of one inch. The design is intended for lining with brick, which will simultaneously become a screen from hard infrared radiation emanating from metal and a heat accumulator. Before installation, it is required to heat the oven on the street in a gentle mode to burn the factory paint and eliminate the smell of burning when operating directly in the bath. A heat-resistant cord is laid on the door and blower, which is necessary for sealing. Previously, this was not the case, but the company's managers listen to the recommendations of consumers through communication on the forum and make the necessary changes.

A cast-iron grate is installed inside the combustion chamber. Additional sheets of metal are welded on the sides and at the end of the chamber to reduce the effect of the flame on the walls of the furnace in order to avoid deformation.

For relative thrust, he installed a meter-long pipe and conducted the first tests of a metal sauna stove. The draft, even with such a pipe stub, is quite good, only there is a slight flow of smoke from the door when it is opened and, accordingly, a small amount of soot on the glass.

The foundation for the furnace is connected with the foundation of the bathhouse, reinforcement was carried out during pouring. To start laying, I leveled the surface with cement mortar so as not to damage the waterproofing. I laid a roofing material on the pedestal in two layers, on which I will begin to lay out the brick.

To rise above the floor level, and from the foundation it will be about 18-19 centimeters, we lay out the base under the oven three bricks high. There is a little trick. To save mortar and bricks, we lay out a “well”, and inside we simply place the worst brick and fill the remaining space with sand.

The sand will need to be slightly moistened and compacted so that it does not settle, but this is not necessary, the filling will not go anywhere.

Brick made by Kostroma, worth 24 rubles apiece. The geometry is normal, there are chips at the corners and edges, so you have to choose front side ovens. It pricks badly, it is better to cut with a grinder. For the solution, the furnace mixture "Makarov's Furnace House" is used. The solution sets quickly, holds the brick perfectly, and is easy to use. Bags of 25 kg, the cost is about 400 rubles per piece. One bag is designed for laying 60 bricks. The solution must be mixed with a powerful drill with a nozzle, it is unlikely that it will be possible to make a homogeneous mass with your hands. The mixture is well dried and water has to be added quite a lot.

I “sealed” the upper row of bricks at the base of the furnace with mortar, I wanted to install the structure on metal nickels - the legs of the furnace, it seemed to me, would push through the brick. But it turned out that in this case the neck with the door rises and a gap appears. Therefore, then he cleaned the solution, refused the lining.

I immediately tried on convection doors that will draw air from the rest room to the steam room for exchange. But, as it turned out later, they cannot be installed in this place, the decorative screen around the firebox will interfere.

The most difficult thing was to drag the stove into the bathhouse and not demolish anything along the way. The design of 130 kg commanded respect, and I had to order two stronger loaders. If for the first time a loader from the category of “legs and a cap” helped me to drag the stove to the bathhouse, then the masters really arrived. They pushed me away and in 10 minutes they hoisted the “piece of iron” to the place of operation.

I put a T-shaped outlet on the furnace to determine the root pipe. The picture shows a rear view, where the “lambs” are located for removing the roof and then cleaning the pipe from soot, although the manufacturers assured me of its absence.

The root pipe will run to the left of the furnace and also stand on a foundation connected to a common belt. We continue laying with the formation of a pipe.

The pipe will be functional only after the entrance of the T-shaped segment, so we make its sides one and a half bricks, and we also fill the internal space with sand.

Inside the steam room in the furnace screen, we install two more convection doors, but of a large size. This is necessary to quickly warm up the room. We do not lay the top of the furnace with bricks, we leave space for stones. With the convection doors open, air is taken from the floor, passes near the furnace body and exits through the stones already heated. The air flow can be adjusted with a damper. Doors are hung from the side convenient for you.

I bought the doors from the Izistim company, they modernized the design by adding a stainless steel box along the width of the brick. Now it has become convenient to install the doors, without additional wire fastening. Small gaps are left along the perimeter (except for the bottom) of the doors, which compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

The root pipe, so that it passes between the rafters and does not take up much space, is located in line with the “face” of the stove screen. The T-shaped adapter goes a little to the side. In "Izistim" it was made for me with a margin. But, as it turned out, the size was the most suitable, as they say, do not subtract, do not add. A 4 mm stainless steel product cost 4,500 rubles.

It's time to hang the heat exchanger. I bought galvanized corners, spurs and couplings per inch, attached to the general structure, wrapping the threads with flax treated with a heat-resistant sealant (red in the picture).

Brickwork reached the top of the firebox. We install a support corner of 50 * 50 mm with an approach to a brick of 8-10 cm. Around the firebox there is a thermal gap of about 2 cm.

The front side is almost finished, the convection doors are set higher than planned, but for air exchange it is even more convenient, the air coming from the rest room to the steam room will not overheat. Contact with the heated oven is minimal.

We slowly close the heat exchanger with masonry and make outlets for the pipes for connection to the remote tank. The holes are not very neat and then I will close them with stainless steel discs or other decor that is not afraid of moisture. This is a wall in the washing room, it is planned to lay bricks up to the ceiling.

The facade of the stove is finished, the “fireplace” will go next, so that the hot air from the firebox when it is opened does not go directly to the ceiling, but has some obstacle. Yes, and you can put interior decoration items on a shelf.

The wall in the washing room is finished, the pipe outlets are made. It remains to buy stainless pipes and make connections with a mounted tank.

It's time to blow the pipe. Tying masonry from the steam room. The T-piece is connected to the sleeve through a tee. At the bottom of the tee, a cover is installed that allows you to drain condensate and clean the pipe from soot.

From the side of the steam room, the stove looks like this: the T-shaped adapter is covered with a brick screen from above. A corner 40 * 40 is taken as supports.

I will close the cavity above the stove and the adapter with stones for decoration and evaporation of various incense, there is no other function for these stones. And perhaps I will close the pipe with a sheet of stainless steel iron to avoid hard thermal radiation from a very hot metal.

We continue to build a pipe. In the place where the ceiling passes, we form a fluff in order to maintain fire-prevention distances from the "smoke" to the wooden structures. As expected, the front and side walls of the furnace reached almost to the future ceiling.

According to the calculations, the root pipe should pass in the middle between the ceiling beams. And so it happened. The pipe has "grown" to the roof and it's time to make an opening.

And the "face" of the stove looks like this. Convection doors are located in one row with a pipe cleaning. It is still covered with clay, but it is already possible to understand what I want.

Next, we prepare the roof for the passage of the pipe. From the inside, the roof was drilled at the corners of the future passage with a margin of one centimeter. Bulgarian sawed out a metal tile on the roof. I got a passage almost strictly in the center of the ridge, which is convenient for the subsequent closing of the hole from the rain. And the snow will not put pressure on the brickwork.

First of all, we bring a sleeve from a stainless pipe into the opening, then we begin laying.

You should not be content with only the level, you will have to run down so that the pipe is visually even. "Otter", protection from the rain is made almost half a brick. And now the pipe, not yet cleared of clay, takes its prescribed forms.

The pipe was cleaned of clay and varnished for outdoor work on stone and brick in three layers. Each layer hardens about four parts at a temperature of +200°C. It turns out the effect of a wet stone and sealing the pores. The temperature at the top of the stove will roughly match the outside air, if only a little warmer, so the varnish is frost-resistant, withstanding sudden changes in temperature. We got the effect of a wet stone and sealing the pores on the brick and seams, which will protect the material from washing out.

Around the pipe he covered with material that remained from the manufacture of ebbs. Entry on the brick is about 1 centimeter under the "otter". The first rains showed the effectiveness of the design.

Firstly, clean the furnace from clay. Don't use water. So you will only rub the mortar inside the brick and you will not be able to get rid of the stains. If you do not want to spoil the outer part of the brick, then be patient, rags and brushes. You can use fine sandpaper.

Secondly, cover the oven with heat-resistant varnish, it is enough to use the composition up to 1500 ° C, you will no longer heat up the screen with all your desire.

And thirdly, put an umbrella on the pipe in order to avoid rain getting inside.

A little trick: to prepare the solution, take rainwater, thereby you can avoid salt stains on the bricks when the clay dries.

And, I will be happy to answer all your questions, since the report from the scene is far from complete and you may be interested in some of the nuances. We'll help you take pictures and show you.

To be continued! ( 1 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)