Why do chamfering on a beam. Why is a chamfer removed on a beam? How to chamfer a finished log house

You can chamfer the board different ways. Two of them are most common: with the help of a manual and with an automatic tool. The negative side of the application hand tool(various planers) is considered a high degree of injury risk, as well as a catastrophically low pace of work. Of course, automatic and semi-automatic milling machines are ideal for solving the indicated goals.

On the site http://www.zaoportal.ru/product/view/111 you can purchase professional machine for chamfering. main reason, according to which home craftsmen avoid buying such equipment, the apparent difficulty in operation is considered. In fact, setting up and using it for its intended purpose does not cause any difficulties even for a novice user.

Initially, it is important to choose the right type of cutter. There are several types of bevels. Choose the one that suits your specific task. Not always a suitable cutter is included with the cutter.

But it won't be hard to get one. Cutters of this kind are freely available in tool stores and cost a penny.

Preparing the router for work is as follows:

• a hose from a vacuum cleaner is placed in the waste disposal socket;
• the position of the cutter is adjusted;
• the milling cutter is fixed in a given position;
• horizontal guides are installed.

With the addition of a vacuum cleaner, work is much easier. When processing wood, there is practically no waste left.

Initially, the cutter height adjustment knob must be turned until a characteristic click is heard. The depth adjuster pulls out 3 mm downwards. Then he goes down on his head. Thus, we get the "zero" position of the cutter.

Now, by turning the height adjustment knob, you can quickly and without much difficulty change the position of the cutter by 5, 10 mm.

Router guides for correct chamfering should also be adjusted. This is achieved quite simply - it is only important to tighten the nuts on the guides to the point where the router will slide along the surface to be treated, as if on rails.

The technology of assembling a log house from a bar for a house or a bath

Organization of the workplace for the assembly of walls

In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or better - on its two sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is laid on pads of boards.

Next to the stack equip workplace for marking and cutting beams. A variant of the arrangement of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the beam using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low linings in the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber with a chain saw.

The cut beam is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on the upper crown of the log house. The beam is moved along the slopes with a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the timber safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log house from a bar by a team of four people. You can work together, just work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper rims of the log house and the roof, scaffolding is constructed.

Three-tier scaffolding on the pediment of the house. 1 — Rack extreme; 2 - l-shaped rack of the scaffolding of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — Rack central; 5 - cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on g - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the figure. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls with the help of bosses, pos.6.

At the stage of erection of the roof (attic), on the facades, where the device of gables is necessary, it is necessary to make scaffolding in three tiers. For the construction of scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

It is more convenient, faster and safer to work from scaffolding than from ladders - do not forget about it.

Marking bars for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, they draw a scheme for assembling the walls of the house, on which they indicate: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly scheme is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions 6x9 meters. A and WITH- longitudinal walls; D and B- transverse walls; E- an inner wall made of timber - a partition; 1 - joints of beams.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of bars from 3 to 6 in length. m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main timber of a standard length of 6 meters and an extension, 3 meters long. On one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one bar of a standard length of 6 meters.

To exclude cold bridges in the outer walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are performed by making vertical cuts “to the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root spike (for more details, see below).

How to correctly and quickly mark spikes, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of timber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is with templates. The template is applied to the beam and the contour of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It is more convenient, faster to mark and there will be fewer errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, has the same length as the part to be marked. I put a template on the beam and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored parts of the walls.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for marking the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (see the wall assembly diagram above).

Two patterns (highlighted brightly yellow) for marking the beam of the longitudinal walls. 4 - a groove for a root spike; 5 - a groove for a thorn inner wall; 6 - sample; 7 - dobor bar.

The picture above shows the template. for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall layout diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with an extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

At first glance, the templates are the same, but they differ in that the grooves, pos.5, for connection with the partition, are located in different places of the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the details of the extensions. To do this, on patterns at points b and With drilled through holes, and at the points a and d incisions have been made.

To mark the extension, the template is applied to the timber and points are pricked through the holes and cuts on the surface of the workpiece.

Remember this technique with the device holes in the template. This will help you create generic templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed "inch" boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

And now let's consider how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a selection for the connection “to the floor of the tree”. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (they are better when marking out
hatch) cut out with a chainsaw.

How to mark details with spikes? Obviously, the tongue and groove are elements of the same node, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In a detail with a spike, a spike is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with interventional insulation.

The profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.

How to assemble smooth walls from a bar of different widths

Specifications (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviation of the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard sizes timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and a length of 6 meters, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each bar, in a batch of timber brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

Dimensional variation must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble even walls if the timber is different in width and length?

b- the minimum width of the beam; delta b- the difference between narrow and wide beams.

Obviously, from a beam of different widths, only one surface of the wall can be made even - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all the bars in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then inside the house, wide bars will protrude from the wall by the amount of "delta b"(difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment on the outer edge leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the bars (see figure).

If the bars in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the "steps" of the protruding bars will already be on outer surface walls. The wall outside is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the beam, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without sheathing. Corner connections bars are more dense, "warm".

How and with what to connect the crowns of the log house

Each log crown is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. Nagels are located at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is fixed with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times more height timber.

cm., pos. one.

Dowels made of round steel with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), they simply hammer into the bars of the crowns with a hammer, an option a on the image.

The upper ends of the dowels of any material must be deepened into the beam by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the beam dries and the log shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the beam and raise the upper crown. A large gap is formed between the crowns.

For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged dowels from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the beams of the crowns from moving during the shrinkage of the log house, even if the dowel is deepened into the beam. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter driven steel dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel pins with a diameter of 10 or more millimeters, as well as wooden dowels inserted into pre-drilled holes in the beam. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

With a tight fit of the dowel in the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the log house increases.

Wooden pins with a diameter of 25-30 mm it is convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made from hardwoods. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

Can be cut from a regular "inch" board dowels of square section 25x25 mm. Chamfers are removed from one end of the workpiece. Such pins are hammered into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood are crushed during nailing, the wood is compacted, providing a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to drill holes in a beam for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free from chips.

For drilling holes in timber, deep enough and large diameter, usually use a low-speed electric drill (drill). The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Given the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in the timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with an emphasis, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

The emphasis, in the form of a wooden block, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole of chips, grinds and then easily gets out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a bar that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the interventional insulation. But usually here a problem arises - the interventional gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the gasket material are simply wrapped around the drill and clamped.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the beam is mounted without a gasket and temporarily fixed from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and interventional insulation is laid.

In places of drilling cut the lining with a sharp knife. Then, the removed beam is reinstalled in place, already on the gasket, and fixed with dowels.

Drilling holes in a beam laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. To stand on narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can "bite", a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a flat wall from a curved beam

In the beam brought to the construction site, part of the beams may turn out to be curved. The beam may have curvature in one plane, or twist with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross section.

If possible, then it is better not to use curved bars for the walls of a house or a bath. Bars with curvature are recommended to be cut into smaller pieces and used in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has a curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam in the wall with a bulge up or down, in the hope that it will straighten out under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten out, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid into the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The curved beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

A curved beam is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a straight beam. After laying the interventional insulation, the curved beam is fixed with a dowel at one end and, unbending, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

It does not take much effort to unbend the beam. To facilitate the work will help the lever and bracket

Mezhventsovy gasket - insulation, sealant

For and cold, a gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, moss or linen tow was used for this. Currently, special gasket materials based on flax or flax jute are commercially available. The material is sold as a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and fixed with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should stand 1-2 from the outer edge of the beam. cm. otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and offer to caulk the joints after shrinking the log house, adding an additional amount of material to the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a lower consumption of gasket material.

The work of caulking joints is quite laborious and tedious. It is better to immediately lay the seal thicker, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need for caulking horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of the log house

In the process of building a house or a bath, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of a log house from a bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• Verticality of corners.
• Height of corners and walls.
• The horizontality of the crowns and the upper faces of the timber.
• The straightness of the walls.
• The quality of laying interventional insulation.

For control of the verticality of the corners apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 - bottom trim; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - plinth.

On each side of the crown, at the same distance from the corner edge, draw a vertical line.

With the correct laying of the crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked by a plumb line.

If deviations are found, then the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontal rims and top faces the timber is checked for level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the corners. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the beam in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the settled corners. Sometimes it helps if you knock with a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the laying of interventional insulation is checked visually by examining the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown, doorways begin to form. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen within 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.

a - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. v - scheme for cutting timber, where c - the remainder of the cutting. G - a variant of the opening device in the log house with the installation of temporary fastening beams, pos.7. d - an option with the installation of decks in the opening, pos.6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for the formation of openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in a draft version, only preparation is made to create an opening. The opening is prepared for the installation of doors and windows not immediately during the assembly of the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after shrinkage of the log house.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly of the log house. Bars must be installed in the opening, fastening the wall with a log house, pos.7 in the figure. At least two such bars are installed in the doorway.

In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the walls can “take away” inward or outward. To prevent this the timber in the piers is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another variant - d» in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (pigtails) are installed in the openings - vertical beam with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The spike of the wall beam enters the groove. In this way, the beam of the pier is fixed from displacement. In this version, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (pigtails) traditionally serve not only to connect the timber in the opening, but also play the role window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed, curly chamfers are removed.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a board of a vertical pigtail with a rail - a spike, enters the groove of the wall beam; 3 - plastic window frame; 4 - sealing tape PSUL

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and the device of plastic slopes and window sills, decks (pigtail) can be omitted. The bars in the opening are fastened like this. A vertical groove is cut out at the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening and a rail is inserted there, which fixes the bars of the wall from displacement.

The length of the deck (pigtail) or rail should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for houses, baths in your city

Bar. natural humidity. Edged. Log cabin.

How to install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in the draft version (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting the opening under right size. To do this, a rail is stuffed along the border of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the bars are sawn off with a chain saw along the edge of the rail.

Correct installation windows in a timber wall. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — mezhventsovy heater; 8 - shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall beam (wall); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then circular saw spikes are cut out at the ends of the bars of the wall (wall). On the spikes, pos.10, a deck is placed with a groove, pos.11. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails hammered at an angle, pos. 12. So the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

A window box is inserted into the opening thus prepared, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos.8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

The compensation gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Similarly, openings are prepared and inserted into the walls from the timber of the door.

After the assembly of the first floor of the house is completed, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) ceiling.

May be constructive element. And they can perform an independent function.

The next page describes the construction of a sloping roof of a house made of timber, where floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the mansard roof's load-bearing frame.

Watch the video clip, which describes in some detail and shows the technology for installing a log house from a construction beam.

This is a reality show Stroyka - where they don’t pretend to be TV stars, but build houses. Here, in the village of "Udachny", an amazing experiment has been going on for more than a year - using the example ordinary people, we show that you can build your own house quickly and not expensively. Our heroes share their experience with viewers and participate in a competition where 500,000 rubles are at stake.

Our heroes build their own homes on their plots and for their own money, along the way talking about all the vicissitudes of construction .. The main prize - 500,000 rubles will go to the one who the largest number votes. The filming of the project takes place in "Udachny", an amazing village, which, thanks to the activity of residents, has turned from an empty field into the most dynamically developing low-rise project in a short time.

This season we have 9 participants, it so happened that they all did not start at the same time, one of those who were a little late with the start of construction is Ekaterina Pyanova. Ekaterina's husband is a military man and is constantly on business trips, so our participant had to start the construction herself.

The house will not be large. The Pianovs chose timber as materials for construction.

This is the house under construction of Vladimir and Ekaterina Pyanov, and today we will see how the crowns are laid out in stages, how the logs are impregnated with a special antiseptic, how they are polished and how, in fact, they are laid out in the walls.

The construction of a wall from a bar consists of only a few operations.

First, before laying out a log, it must be well prepared.

Oleg Klimov: Grinding logs consists of two stages: first it is all polished with a planer, and then with a grinder.

Foreman:Yes. First, each beam is planed to perfect size because they come to us in different sizes.

Oleg Klimov: Do you mean to say that you align the dimensions with a planer?

Foreman: Yes, with a planer under a degree, as expected. Then they are polished, and then the chamfers are opened again with a planer and polished again, and the beam will be ready for us.

Logs become absolutely smooth already after processing by a planer. But polishing is still necessary. The fact is that the abrasive layer of the grinder opens the pores of the wood and an antiseptic, varnish or other protective composition penetrates there more easily.

But the matter is not limited to one grinding, sharp edges of the corners are cut off from each log. For builders, this is called chamfering.

This is how beauty turns out, but the chamfer is not only a decorative function; it also has a useful application, Yuri, what? What is the chamfer for, besides the fact that it is beautiful?

Foreman: In addition to the fact that it looks beautiful, then the chamfer on the outside is also revealed. There will be no bottom - it is at a right angle, but from above, so that the water drains.

Oleg Klimov: That is, so that the water flows down this crack, and does not flow into the interventional insulation - this is why a chamfer is needed so that the water flowing down the wall does not enter here and soak the tow with moisture.

The beam is ready and now it can be mounted on the wall. In this operation, at first glance, there is nothing complicated.

Foreman: We are already laying the fourth crown, before laying the beam, we are laying interventional insulation, putting the beam, leveling it.

Oleg Klimov: The level, of course, is all checked, both horizontal and vertical plane. But during installation, when you carefully measured everything and carefully set it up, when will all this be drilled, when will it be clogged, will these settings go wrong?

Foreman: When we drill, we again check the level, and then, if necessary, we will level it together, and we will hold it, and the third will hammer the dowels.

Oleg Klimov: Some temporarily grab with nails, and then pull them out.

Foreman: It's different for everyone, we don't accept nails, so it goes well. We do not use any nails and screws, we put them on crowns.

Oleg Klimov: Now, as I understand it, we are measuring the place where we will drill for dowels. How far apart should the holes be?

Foreman: If the beam is long, then the step will be from 60 to 80 centimeters. We now have a short beam - there is a distance of 80. Dowels are nailed. We mark in a checkerboard pattern so that next time we don’t get on the dowel.

Oleg Klimov: That is, there will be a mark outside, and when we put the next row of logs, we will determine from this mark where the dowel is clogged. And in this place we will no longer drill.

Foreman: Dowels still make their way in a checkerboard pattern so that there is gain.

Holes for wooden pins must be absolutely perpendicular to the beam, for this you need a steady hand and a very powerful, professional drill. An ordinary household drill will burn out in 5 minutes.

An even hole is obtained, a dowel sits here and the log is already absolutely rigidly sitting in its row. All other rows are made according to the same principle.

Oleg Klimov:Yuri, here we can see that the house is built without any cuts, neither cut into half a log, nor cut into a warm corner, here bars are simply laid out in a checkerboard pattern. Why is this so, is it good or bad?

Foreman: I think it's good. Wherever there are joints, interventional insulation is laid.

Actually, the builders are a little cunning, the horizontal layer of insulation is pressed against top rows logs, but the vertical seam, which is in the corner, is not pressed by anything, therefore cold air passes freely through it. Here, this problem is not solved in any way, although, indeed, dozens of ways have been invented how to connect logs into a warm corner and interrupt this through vertical slot. In addition, various cuts, for example, the same dovetail, tie the logs well in the crown. Our team is also going to do something in this matter.

Foreman:We also have such a technology where door and window openings will have a small cut, under the block and a block is inserted here, it is not nailed, but simply inserted so that the crowns do not lead.

Oleg Klimov:And then how is the joint made with this bar?

Foreman:A block 40 by 40 is cut off, a block is inserted. Before doors and windows are inserted, lintels are immediately cut off, then bars are inserted, then doors and windows are immediately inserted.

Oleg Klimov: Is it thick enough not to freeze in winter?

Foreman: I think that's enough - it's not really a winter house.

Oleg Klimov: This is such an off-season - in summer, autumn, spring it is possible, but in severe frosts in such a house, of course, it will be a bit cold.

Having dealt with the walls, let's see how the floor of the first floor will be arranged in this house - also an important detail for warmth, even for a house that is intended for seasonal living.

Oleg Klimov: Yuri, tell us what is being done now, at what stage is the construction?

Foreman:First, the logs are impregnated with a special solution - an antiseptic without protection, then the logs are laid and then the crowns are laid.

Oleg Klimov: Let's see how the logs will lie and why they are impregnated.

As we can see, this is the foundation of the house, it is made of foundation blocks, of 4, placed one on top of the other, connected with a mortar, under each such column there is a concrete pad, under the concrete pad there is crushed stone, and a foundation beam is installed on this entire structure. Sexual sticks are laid on it, and before they are laid, they are impregnated with an antiseptic.

Oleg Klimov: How will this beam be attached here?

Foreman: They will lie across, and they will be fastened with a special corner, the corner is called reinforcement.

Oleg Klimov: Is it powerful enough to support this beam?

Foreman: Yes, between them the distance is 60-64 centimeters and then the insulation is laid.

Oleg Klimov: How will you arrange then? Let's put one beam and show how it will all look.

Oleg Klimov: The beam is about like this, sits on the corner. Where is the heater going to be?

Foreman: To insulate the floor, first the bars are nailed, then 25 boards are laid on them - the subfloor. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the draft board so that there are no gaps, and a mineral wool insulation is placed on it and covered with a film on top again and then the floor is already laid.

Oleg Klimov: It turns out at once a fine floor?

Foreman: Yes.

Oleg Klimov: Will there be no subfloor stage? Will there be a clean floor?

Foreman:It will be clean immediately.

We will tell you about what is happening at the facilities of other participants in the following programs, every day, except Saturday, on the Domashny TV channel at 18.30, watch new episodes of the Stroyka reality show, where they do not build illusions, but build houses.

Before erection wooden house builders prepare lumber, performing a fence. In the process of sharpening, the craftsmen, using an electric planer, carefully remove the top layer of wood from one or from different sides of the timber. According to the technology of erecting log cabins, chamfering is performed - the corners of the timber. Many developers are wondering why this should be done?

Reasons for removing corners

The chamfer is removed from the logs for the following reasons:

1. Ensuring the protection of crevices formed during the installation of building elements from water penetration.
2. The cleaned material allows convenient and thorough caulking of cracks.
3. The appearance of the building becomes more attractive.

Features of the procedure

The cut is made from the top corner of the facade. If you cut from the lower edge, this will cause moisture to enter the insulation between the lumber, subsequently it will begin to rot.

WITH inside construction, the cut is carried out both from the upper corner and the lower one. The specifics of the procedure depends on the type of material chosen for insulation. The sizes of slices do not have standards, but depend on the tool used - caulking.

If the beam is planned to be covered with insulation and trim, then the cuts can be omitted.

To build a durable and beautiful country house, it is recommended to contact professionals. Our company is building wooden houses, chamfer cut on a bar and others construction work. Masters help to save personal time and effort of our clients. Contact us by leaving a request on the website or by calling the specified phone number.

An easy-to-make device for chamfering wooden blocks and narrow boards, as well as for planing and other types of processing of round or faceted wooden blanks.

When planing wooden blocks and narrow boards, it is almost always necessary to remove small bevels from the ribs in order to dull them to one degree or another. However, for this you have to hold the planer obliquely, approximately at an angle of 45 degrees, which is not always convenient, especially when working with electric planers.

You can get out of this situation if you do special device in the form of a long longitudinal corner, in which the processed bar would be laid and thus the edge from which the chamfer needs to be chamfered would be on top.

In addition, such a device could also be used for planing faceted and round wooden blanks (for example, handles for garden tools: shovels, pitchforks, rakes, etc.), which are very inconvenient to plan on a flat surface.

I thought about making such a device, just when I was planing blanks for the handles of shovels (see my article ""), since with such a device my work would go much easier and faster.

As a result, I decided to make this device, for which I needed the following accessories:

Materials and fasteners:
Two wooden planks 2 cm thick, 4 cm wide and 6 cm wide, and 2 m long.
Wooden plank 2 cm thick, 5 cm wide, and 50 cm long.
Wood screws 4x50 mm.

Tools:
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square).
Awl.
Electric jigsaw with saw for curly cut.
Electric drill-driver.
Drill for metal with a diameter of 4 mm.
Spherical cutter for wood.
Screwdriver bit PH2, for driving screws.
Sandpaper.

Operating procedure

First, we mark a bar 6 cm wide, and drill along its entire length, on one side 5 or 6 holes for screws.

On the opposite side of the plank, countersink these holes for the screw heads using a spherical wood cutter.

Then we insert screws into these holes and screw our bar to the end of another bar 4 cm wide.

As a result, we get such a wooden corner 2 m long.

After that, using an electric jigsaw, we cut out such a blank from a short bar.

It will serve as a stopper for planed blanks, and at the same time, a support for our device.
We also mark this workpiece and drill three holes for the screws in it.

And then with screws, we fasten this workpiece to the end of our corner fixture.

From the remaining piece of the plank, we cut out two more such blanks with an electric jigsaw.

We will screw them to the back of our device, where they will serve as additional supports.

In the very back of the fixture, we drill two holes for the screws on each side.

We also countersink the upper parts of these holes with a spherical wood cutter in order to drown the screw heads.

Now we screw our blanks with screws.

All elements of the fixture, and especially the ends, are processed with sandpaper.

And now our device is ready!
This is what its back looks like.

And so is the front.

Now on this device it will be possible to process the bars.
Here, for example, I put a blank bar for the shovel handle into this device - rear view.

And this is the front view.

But the bar is not square, but rectangular in cross section. Now it will be quite easy to chamfer with such bars.

But I put in a fixture, a purchased handle for a shovel, round in section.

Such round blanks will now also be very convenient to process in this fixture. Moreover, they can not only be planed, but also carry out other types of processing, for example, drilling holes in them or sawing them.

Well, that's about all! All for now and convenient devices in the work!