How to cut laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips? How to repair chips after cutting?

(10+)

Tell me, please, how to cut laminated chipboard, chipboard without chips?

Question:

When making furniture, you have to saw chipboard. Chipboard does not like this very much - it crumbles. Chips form along the edge. How to cut chipboard without chips or repair chips?

Answer:

.

But if you plan to use laminated chipboard whitewashed, then this method is not suitable. It is necessary to cut so that there are no chips. Sawing so that there are no chips without special equipment is quite difficult. A circular saw not only crumbles the edge, but can split the laminating coating half a meter along the board. And any other tool gives an edge even worse.

Rumor has it that chipboard can be sawn without chipping with a hacksaw with a very fine tooth, or even with a jigsaw with a metal file with a very fine tooth. But I don't get out.

I saw chipboard, if you need to get a good edge, like this: I mark out - I draw lines along which the cut will go. I put a metal ruler along the line. I secure it with clamps. I cut the laminating coating with a cutter along the lines of the intended cut. The cut is made deep enough and wide (slightly wider than a hacksaw or circular disc). I run the cutter along the iron ruler several times until I cut through the coating completely. I do this on both sides. It is very important to mark correctly so that the markup above and the markup below match. After that, I already drink, usually hand saw on wood. But he already got used to getting into the slot with a circular.

Unfortunately, errors occur periodically in articles, they are corrected, articles are supplemented, developed, new ones are being prepared. Subscribe to the news to stay informed.

If something is not clear, be sure to ask!
Ask a Question. Article discussion.

More articles

Why does the wood floor creak...
My practical experience fight against floor squeak. And also the advice of the elderly. How do we...

Why crumbles, cracks, collapses concrete in the foundation, walkway, ...
Filled in the summer track and foundation. After the winter, serious damage is visible, observing ...

Chest of drawers, cabinet with their own hands. We do, we make ourselves. Self...
Let's make a chest of drawers right size from wood- particle board. Chest of drawers will be...

Do-it-yourself lining installation ....
How to sheathe clapboard to look beautiful and professional. Practical experience...

Do-it-yourself concrete, concrete, cement mortar. Self-guided...
How to make durable concrete yourself. Secrets of a good solution....

How to fill the foundation? We will make the foundation ourselves, with our own hands ...
Tips for pouring the foundation in short. Planning. Markup. Fill. Warming...

Heating with coal, experience...
Coal heating experience. Warm, comfortable, but troublesome. The comfort and safety of coal...

Fastening with self-tapping screws of wood, metal, chipboard, fiberboard, plastic, brick, ...
How to fix with screws. Screwing a screw into various materials, tree, m...

The furniture in the store is beautiful, attractive. Road. And it does not always turn out to be exactly the most desirable addition to the interior, as it was drawn in the imagination that was played out in earnest.

Another thing is custom-made furniture. The master came (at least that's what they call themselves), measured everything, asked everything, assessed everything, left to fulfill the order. Sometimes for a long time. Less often - not quite what was required. But the price of custom-made furniture often turns out to be even higher than its analogue, which is languishing in the store.

Guided by such considerations, the heads of middle-income Russian families often think that it would be nice to acquire the skills of the legendary Pope Carlo themselves and sculpt masterpieces of furniture architecture right at the place of their future residence. That is, at home.

Starting, as a rule, with "light infantry" - stools, bedside tables, coasters - simple hacksaw and ax workers inevitably face one problem. Her name is Smooth cut chipboard. Making reciprocating movements with the same hacksaw, or (worse) leading a vibrating jigsaw along the drawn marking line, they get anything but an uneven cut of the material. Well, maybe even. But this is a rarity.

But for cabinet furniture, geometrically flawless ends wooden boards are of critical importance. This is the quality of fitting elements together, and appearance decor and so on.

In what ways did our ancestors, who were more skilled in this matter, achieve this level of processing?

When working with a hacksaw, the tool itself is primarily important: its choice depends on the material being processed, its qualities and properties. For chipboard, which is now common, it is highly desirable to use a hacksaw with fine teeth, diluted by half the thickness of the canvas. A larger divorce will give a wide propyl and unwanted chips; narrow - to jam the tool in a chipboard sheet, which leads to mild psychosis. In addition, if the hacksaw is armed with hardened teeth, this only goes to her "plus" - and the wiring is preserved better, and the sharpening is lost more slowly. It is important.

However, sawing long cuts with such a hacksaw is fraught with significant fatigue, since small and frequent “teeth” are quickly clogged with wood dust and are no longer able to effectively perform their functions in this state. But still, at home, using a tool with just such parameters is most preferable. The very same sawing should be done at the most acute angle of the cutting edge of the hacksaw to the sawn plate. This is less tiring, and besides, it gives the desired even cut.

Of the electrified devices in this area, such figures are known as electric jigsaw and a miter saw.

The first is characterized by a rather riotous nature with uncontrolled conduct of his harvesting. Techniques for his restriction of freedom here are quite simple and unpretentious. This is, first of all:

• guide - flat and straight, preferably a metal ruler, fixed with clamps along the marking line. Resting against it with the sole, the tool passes its distance almost perfectly, without “blockages” and chips.
• the file itself - its parameters, this is rigidity and purpose - for a simple chipboard - with small teeth directed upwards and without wiring, for a tree - divorced large teeth, predatory sticking out in different directions from the plane of the canvas. But about the first ones, it should be remembered that, after about a meter of cut, their canvas will inevitably heat up, lose its qualities and “tear” to the side. Almost always this happens with inevitability of 100%;
• adhesive tape pasted from the side where the teeth exit to the surface. Better yet, both. You never know ... Chips appear in these places. However, it is not out of place to monitor the strength of the bonding of the adhesive tape itself with the surface to be treated: if it is subsequently removed, it itself is capable of heaping up characteristic flaws, even worse than a file;
• two parallel cuts with a carpenter's knife on both sides of the marking line for the entire length of the intended cut. It also saves from chips, and is especially true for laminated chipboard sheets.

After sawing, you can refine the cut with a milling cutter or grinder, however, firstly, this is according to the circumstances, and secondly, too many tools are already required for a cabinet that will appear in life once and for many years.

Pro miter saw only one thing can be said: it is necessary.

In the process of self-manufacturing furniture, the contractor may need to cut or trim laminated chipboard for later use. Of course, it is best to perform this operation on sawing, however, if necessary, and to reduce labor intensity, it is quite possible to cut chipboard at home (using a jigsaw). Moreover, it is very important to implement this procedure in such a way as to minimize the number of chips and thereby form an even cut.

Why do chips appear

Before cutting chipboard or laminate with a jigsaw, it is advisable to understand why chips form when cutting sheet material. And the answer here is simple: everything lies in the design of the jigsaw, or rather in the design of the nail file.

So, in the process of cutting, the nail file receives return movements (up and down). And if, when the saw blade moves along the teeth (usually down), chips practically do not form, then when the tool moves in the opposite direction, the teeth seem to pull out upper layer material, thereby forming an impartial chip. That is why you can observe an almost perfect cut from the bottom side of the chipboard and a cut with chips along its upper edge.

Ways to Minimize Chips

An additional reason for the formation of chips may be the divorce of the teeth of the nail file. Therefore, the first step is to take care of purchasing a tool with a straight cut (often these are Bosh files). However, it should be taken into account that when long work, such files overheat and may even bend during the cut. In view of what it is necessary to take breaks in work to cool the cutting tool.

However, one replacement of the file is not enough, and in order to cut chipboard (laminate) with an electric jigsaw without chips, a small modification of the power tool is required. Namely, to make sure that when the file moves against the inclination of the tooth, the material does not break out. For what it is enough to make a stubborn platform. This conclusion can be reached by trying to cut through two sheets of chipboard at the same time. So there will be practically no chips on the lower element.

In order to make a thrust pad for a jigsaw, it is enough to cut a rectangle out of any dense material (for example, laminate) in size identical to the dimensions of the sole of the power tool.

Then, along the larger axial line, a file should be made and the resulting equipment should be fixed to the sole of the jigsaw with electrical tape or double-sided tape. All refinement is ready and you can perform finishing work in compliance with certain recommendations.

First, as mentioned above, you should use a jigsaw file with a straight cut.

Secondly, in order to better control the cutting process, it is justified to apply a marking line on both sides of the chipboard and check the processing accuracy from above and below.

And thirdly, take constant breaks in work to cool the cutting equipment.

Sometimes the solution in this matter can be a simple cutting of the laminated layer of material with a mounting knife, and subsequent work with a jigsaw will no longer cause large defects in the form of chips. but this work requires a certain amount of experience and accuracy from the performer.

We bought recently coffee table, the price is inexpensive, but there is a “but”. The height of the table for our interior is too big. It would be nice to reduce the height of centimeters by 10. As they say, we are not looking for easy ways, I decided that

I manage with my own hands.

I remembered that on our site there is an asoleg specialist who did it, of course, I’m far from him, but some recommendations can help. Contacted him, explained the problem and he kindly shared his secret. With his permission, I am publishing his technology for cutting furniture chipboard without chips.

Everything turned out to be simple. Mark the cutting line. After that, with a clerical knife, along the ruler, we cut through the top layer of chipboard. Just draw the knife several times with a little effort along the cut line. (I recommend practicing on an unnecessary part of the chipboard) If you press very hard, the decorative layer will begin to swell and turn out not very beautiful.

Further, retreating 1-2 millimeters from the intended line towards the rough part, we cut with a jigsaw or a suitable file with teeth directed towards the saw handle. We make a wash down on the opposite side of the cut so that there is no chipping at the end of the cut. And we cut to the end. You need to cut carefully, slowly. Then, with a sandpaper of medium grain, fixed on a bar, we clean the end of the part. If necessary, we remove the millimeter that we retreated. My cut turned out to be almost perfect, after sanding there were no scuffs at all. The photo shows the difference between the left and right side cut. Well, and, accordingly, if both parts of the chipboard are needed, we cut it with a knife on both sides of the cut. We measure the thickness of the cut of a jigsaw or file, add 2 millimeters. It turned out the distance that should be between the slots made with a clerical knife. We cut exactly between these lines. Then there will be no scoring on the other side. Naturally, you need to use a sharp tool, I use a tool.

Everything turned out great. On the finished table, my wife did not find the place where I cut.

Thank you for your cooperation and help asoleg.

Tags: How to cut chipboard without chips, how to cut chipboard without chipping.

This article is found by:

• how to cut chipboard without chipping
• how to cut chipboard without chips
• how to cut chipboard without
• how to cut chipboard without chips with a jigsaw
• how to cut chipboard without chips at home
• how to cut chipboard without chips at home
• how to cut chipboard without chipping
• how to cut chipboard without chipping
• how to cut chipboard
• how to cut chipboard without chips

If you like to do something with your own hands, read the article.

How to cut chipboard without chips

So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to dash off another analytical note. This time the theme is sawing chipboard without chips .

There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw chipboard only on professional equipment(that is, a panel saw).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

Of course, if you decide to make a wardrobe with your own hands. it is better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then quietly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU FUCKED UP IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE. I don’t want to drag myself back to the shop, but I need to cut.

This article aims to answer this question. The overview of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (I apologize in advance), I will try to compensate for this lack of text????

Method 1 - Scratch

The grandfather's way. It used to be used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard covered with a thick layer of varnish. Now rarely used. With it, along the ruler, we scratch with an awl or a simple nail a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.

After that, we cut along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not a step past. You can cut with both a jigsaw and a hand saw.

In principle, in the photo on the right you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, but they did not go beyond the scratched line.

Detailed tutorial on this method

The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly in line. So slow.

Small cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple electric jigsaw. For this, several conditions must be met.

Firstly, the file must be with a minimum tooth size (that is, for metal) and new. At the same time, on one side (where the teeth enter the material), the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.

Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. Turnovers set not maximum (slightly above average.

The disadvantage of the method is that it is quite difficult to maintain a strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

Method 3 - Circular Saw

To work with the circular, we need a “finishing” saw blade(again, with a small tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than long straight cuts with a jigsaw. But at the same time, chips are formed much more (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top) is usually clean. It breaks off pieces from the opposite side (bottom)).

You can cut like a free saw (it is quite difficult to drive exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - a lot of trouble with markings.

So is the saw fixed in the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the accuracy of the cut and allow you to stamp the same parts.

Even when using a finishing disc, there will be many chips on one side.

Method 4 - Undercut Sawing

This is a modification of working with circular saw. Ideally, it will require a plunge-cut saw. but, in principle, you can do with the usual circular. For work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured is a simple circular with a homemade tire).

The whole point is, by analogy with a panel saw, to make two cuts strictly along the same line.

This will help us cut on the tire (long ruler). The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm. At the same time, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without pulling out pieces of it.

If you enlarge the photo, it will look something like this

The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the place where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut off and there is nothing to prick.

Not a bad way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the whole cabinet in this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (it also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece; the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, departing from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then we align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, right size). The cutter must be copy, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of carrying out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many radius parts. including several that are exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary sawing of blanks, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, not very suitable for mass use.

http://ruki-zolotye.ru