A simple kitchen drain in a private house. Arrangement of a cesspool: how to make a drain or septic tank in a private house

Before you start installing sewerage in the country, you need to decide what kind of drainage and filtration scheme will be. There are several technical points that must be present in every system:

1. The distance from the receiving well to water wells must be in accordance with SNiP.
2. The diameter of the pipeline through which sewage will be drained must correspond to the number of plumbing fixtures and the approximate efficiency.
3. The depth of the outer trench cannot be higher than the soil freezing layer.
4. Be sure to have a sealed well or septic tank for drainage.

• Filtration septic tank with a compartment for settling a thick fraction. This is an advanced technology, the main principle of which is to separate the sewage that enters the collector and divide them into fractions. As a result of passing through several filtration chambers, the liquid is purified to a state that is safe from the point of view of sanitary standards.
• Local treatment facility. In fact, these are mini-cleaning plants, which are based on the use of water for purification.
• Using a container as a cesspool.

Country drain is separate and common

The first case is when drains from different plumbing fixtures come to different tanks for sludge and filtration. In addition, a separate form is considered to be a separate delivery of water from street storm collectors and the internal network.

The general system for collecting sewage and wastewater consists in laying a single line for both indoor appliances and for collecting water on the street.

Year-round residence and summer

If no one lives in the country house in winter, then it is enough to assemble a summer sewer system. In this case, it is not necessary to dig a deep trench and lay a pipeline of a larger diameter.

The release from the house also does not need to be mounted along the very bottom of the foundation. The exit is made directly from the top point of the plumbing fixture. simple circuit collection of summer sewage in the photo:

As for the collector into which water will be drained, it must still be sealed and securely installed. No need to install a septic tank, a regular drain pit is perfect. At the end of the summer season, it will simply have to be pumped out and mothballed for the winter.

With year-round living in a private house, you will have to complicate the task a little. In order to use water and a toilet in cold weather, it is necessary to provide good external sewerage. In addition, there are still some difficulties during installation. This is the depth to which the outer sections of the water supply are buried, and its insulation, and many other factors.

Norms of the distance of treatment facilities on the site

According to SNiP, treatment facilities and pits should be located on a significant aquifer and other engineering facilities.

• From a residential building - at least 5 m to a septic tank, VOC, cesspool to avoid unpleasant odors entering the room. And also to prevent in advance the possible deplorable consequences of the influence of a humid environment on the foundation of the house.
• To a well with water - 30-50 m. Of course, it is very difficult to follow this rule, since the size of the plots is very limited. It is still necessary to remove the septic tank from the water supply as much as possible, as far as the technical possibility allows.
• To the borders of the neighboring plot - at least 2 m.
• From the collector to plants and trees - the location is 2-4 m, if the roots of the tree are large.

Materials and tools

• To dig a trench, you need a small excavator. If there is no possibility of arrival of heavy equipment, you will have to take up shovels.
• Pipes need to be cut with something, some use a grinder with speed control, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth.
• Jackhammer, perforator - to make holes in the well and the foundation of the house.
• Sand or fine sand to fix the pipeline in the trench.
• Insulation, thermal insulation in places where laying sewerage through an external network to a depth below the soil freezing layer is impossible.

The main segment of the drainage system is a pipe, here are its main options:

1. Red PVC is available in various sizes.
2. Black polyethylene also comes in diameters from 50 to 159 mm.
3. Ribbed - pragma. The length is 4 and 6 m, the diameter is from 100 mm to 500 mm.
4. Gray polypropylene (plastic).

Do-it-yourself system installation in a private house

After the cesspool is placed on the site, you can start digging a trench to the desired depth. In the central part of Russia it is 2-2.5 meters, in the northern regions - a meter more, and in the southern regions 1-1.5 meters. They begin to dig a trench from the place of reception of sewage to the top, to the house.

Now, a fine sand and gravel mixture, a “pillow”, is poured at the bottom of the pit along the entire length. It is better to immediately “shoot through” the slope at least a little and level the sand.

The next step will be the laying of the pipeline itself. At the beginning, the end is inserted into the well so that the socket looks towards the house. It is advisable to immediately fix the pipe in the hole with mortar or foam. Then they are connected in series with an idle end into a socket. To simplify the process, the rubber bands are lubricated with engine oil or a special lubricant.

Each pipe is measured to match the desired slope. This can be done with a building level, but it is better to take a level.

According to SNiP, sewerage is laid along a slope corresponding to the diameter of the pipe. For a diameter of 40-50 mm, the roll is 3 cm per meter, 85-100 mm - 2 cm per 1 m, and for 150 mm it will be 0.8 cm per 1 m.

After assembling the outer line, the line is aligned along the entire length so that the entire straight section is visible through the hole.

Now the thread is sprinkled with sand and the edges are carefully knocked down. Then the so-called protective layer of the same sand is poured.

Depending on the length of the outer section of the system, a fan riser is pulled to the surface every 8-10 meters. To do this, a connecting tee is inserted with the socket up, and a pipe of the same diameter is inserted into it. It is necessary to mount the fan riser at the level of backfilling the soil so that it sticks out of the ground a little.

As soon as the route is laid, it's time to bring the system into the house. Often they dig a hole right under the foundation of the cottage and make a hole in the floor of the room where there will be a bathroom or kitchen. This is the most practical way to wind a pipe.

No sleeves should be inserted between the ceiling, foundation or floor. After installation, the hole must be well and tightly closed to avoid opening the joints during operation.

Important: the protective layer of sand must be at least 30 centimeters along the entire length of the trench.

If it is not possible to dig a ditch of the required depth, the drain must be thermally insulated. Insulation of external sewerage is carried out using the following materials:

1. Mineral wool.
2. Fiberglass fabric.
3. Styrofoam shell.
4. Large sawdust and roofing material.

The method of thermal insulation for all materials is almost the same. You do not need to wrap the line completely, just put the insulation on top, and you can pour a protective layer. However, this does not apply to the polystyrene shell, since it consists of two half-cylinders, which are put on the entire pipe and only then joined together into trenches.

How to properly sewer with a high level of groundwater

If water has already appeared in the upper parts when digging a trench, you still have to dig the desired depth.

If the sewer is assembled correctly, on further work ground water won't affect. So that when laying pipes, water does not interfere, you need to dig a trench a little wider and dig a recess of 20-30 centimeters along its very bottom from the edge along the entire length. Liquid will accumulate in this groove, and the moat will remain dry.

Since the cesspool, VOC, septic tank and drain system are sealed, should not affect the cleaning process. However, if a VOC or a septic tank is installed in the country, a discharge pipe or a dry well is required, through which water can penetrate back into. To avoid this, they install on the discharge pipe.

Another solution to this problem is to bring the waste pipe from the septic tank on top into the nearest ravine, since the water comes out almost clean and this will not harm the environment.

Connecting the pipeline is a laborious process, you will need:

• fittings, tees and couplings;
• grinder to cut off some sections;
• building level;
• perforator and screwdriver;
• special brackets - to fix pipes.

To independently bring the drainage system to the sink, bath or shower, you need a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, for a toilet bowl the size will be 100 mm. If there is a bathroom on both the first and second floors, then a hundred square meters are pulled upstairs, regardless of what devices will be there.

Wiring of the interior

Details about the main stages:

1. First you need to decide where and what devices will be installed. Depending on their number and purpose, choose a diameter.
2. Marking of the internal highway. On the wall or on the floor, the direction of the thread is marked from lowest point to the highest. Make measurements of pieces for assembly.
3. Before starting to assemble, install the brackets into which the pipes will then be inserted.
4. Directly assembling the pipeline by attaching them to each other with an idle end into a socket. Before inserting them, the rubber bands are liberally lubricated with engine oil. During assembly, it is advisable to use a 45 degree bend, and not 90, since the angle of rotation of the first is much softer. For connecting devices, straight and oblique tees are used. It should be remembered that the sewer pipe is not static: it either narrows or expands. Therefore, a compensator must be installed on the vertical section. Also, every 5 meters in problem areas and turns, you need to lay cleaning revisions. These are special fittings with a screw-on cap through which congestion is cleaned.
5. A prerequisite reliable operation drain is its check after installation. You can check the joints with the help of the strait of the entire system. Having collected all the elbows and tees, a hose is inserted into the latter and water is supplied under slight pressure. If everything is done correctly, then the joints will remain dry, and all the water will go to the outer part of the line (drain).

Important: slope internal sewerage a little more than the outside. For a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, it is 3 cm per meter, and for 100 mm - 1.5-2 cm.

In order for it to work in a private house for the period set for it, you must first of all mount it correctly. This is 80 percent of success. But even after launch, you must properly monitor the system.

1. Initially, it is correct to organize and calculate the volume of effluents.
2. Pump out the cesspool in time. And not only the liquid fraction, but also the sediment at the bottom of the wells.
3. Make sure that foreign objects do not get into the pipe, which can lead to blockage. For example, small parts of children's toys, rags, etc.
4. Timely conduct an external inspection of septic tanks and pits in order to check their tightness.

Useful video

Practical work:

General principle:

In the first case, all the work will be done quickly and efficiently, but their services must be paid. It is because of this that many owners of private houses and summer cottages decide to make it on their own.

After all, it does not require numerous skills and any complex tools. So, let's look at how to properly make a drain pit on your own.

In order to build it, you will need to decide in advance how much it should be, choose the most suitable place, dig a hole and properly strengthen the walls.

For all this, there is no need for great knowledge in construction. It is only necessary to do everything slowly, correctly, following the recommendations.

Volume and type of drain pit

The first step is to decide what volume of the drain pit will be the most relevant.

Of course, if your family consists of only two people, then 2-3 cubic meters will be enough.

This volume is also enough for a summer residence, if they do not live on it permanently, but simply visit from time to time.

In addition, such a hole will need to be cleaned quite often, and this is a rather expensive and complicated procedure.

It is best to make high-quality, which will rarely need to be cleaned.

As mentioned, its volume must be calculated based on how many people permanently live in the house.

If the family is large and there are a lot of drains, then the structure should be made of high quality and of a decent size.

Indeed, with permanent residence, water will be used quite often and in large quantities, since we all wash our hands, regularly take a shower and bath, and wash dishes. That is, if the hole is small size, it will fill up quickly.

In addition, with regular use for various needs a large number water, it is recommended to build septic tanks. They are ideal option, because they do not harm the environment and meet all sanitary standards.

But in this case, it is required to build several wells at once, and not just one pit. By doing this, it is possible to achieve high-quality purification of the water used, and then divert it into the ground.

You also need to carefully consider where the drain pit will be located. After all, sooner or later it will be necessary to pump out sewage from it, which means that there must be a convenient entrance for a sewage truck, or at least a pumping hose should be enough for it.

In addition, this service is paid, which means that the more flights are made, the more expensive it will cost you, since the distance has a significant impact on the price. That is, if the pit is shallow and of small volume, you will often have to resort to the help of vacuum trucks and you will need to fork out significantly.

When choosing a location, consider the following factors:

• The groundwater level, if available on the site, should be deep
• If there is any source of water, for example, a well, it is recommended to place it at a distance of at least 30 meters from it
• It should be possible to access special equipment
• The pit should be located at a distance of at least 5 meters from the residential area.

After it has been decided how much this structure will require, and having chosen the place where it will be located, you should decide which design is best suited. Let's look at the most versatile drain pit, the efficiency of which has been proven over the years.

The most popular and common is a drain pit in the form of an earthen tank without a bottom. Despite its apparent simplicity, it is very effective.

First of all, this is due to the fact that since its bottom is earthen, and not filled, for example, with concrete, the water in it is collected slowly. After all, it is gradually absorbed into the ground.

It should be cleaned once every 3-4 months. Although there are some drawbacks. In particular, drains will gradually pollute groundwater and such a pit should not be placed closer than 5 meters from a residential building.

Due to the fact that silt accumulates at the bottom, the filtering properties begin to get worse. To avoid this, you should from time to time call the sewers and pump it out.

Usually the walls of this type of pit are laid out from. But you need to remember that there should be small gaps in it so that water can seep through.

But in last years for this purpose, ready-made concrete rings are increasingly being used, which can be installed quickly and without any problems. Although you can still find drain pits with earthen walls.

But as the practice of their operation shows, they are short-lived.

To make the process of waste decomposition faster, special strains of special bacteria should be poured into the water. They will gradually multiply and recycle waste. The drain pit, thanks to this, will become dirty much more slowly.

In recent years, more and more often began to install ready-made tanks. They can be made of concrete, plastic or metal. But the latter is not recommended.

This is due to the fact that iron will quickly become unusable under regular exposure. aggressive environment. The most acceptable material is concrete. It is distinguished by reliability and durability.

If you are going to use sealed structures as a drain pit, from which liquid will not come out and be absorbed into the ground, then you will need to take into account that they need to be cleaned and pumped out frequently. For the latter, a regular hose is quite suitable.

Well, the silt is removed with the help of special equipment, which only specialists who provide such services have. So take this into account, because it will cost you regular and significant expenses.

As we can see, before starting work, you should think through everything well and choose the volume and type of structure that are best suited to your existing needs.

Installation order

In order for the structure to serve for a long time and effectively, you need to know how to properly make a drain hole in a private house.

The first step is to prepare a pit of the required size.

Those who do not want to spoil the landscaping of the site prefer to do it manually, but this is quite a difficult task and takes a lot of time and effort.

It is better to dig it out with an excavator, it will be much easier, although existing garden plants may suffer.

As a matter of fact, which option will be more acceptable needs to be decided by the owners.

It must be at least five meters deep. A special drainage cushion should be installed at the bottom.

If the drain hole will be dug by hand, the following will be required:

• Stairs
• Shovel and bayonet shovel
• Master OK
• Bucket
• Pegs to mark the edges of the pit

When digging a hole, it should be remembered that layers of sand and gravel must be poured onto the bottom, after which, it should be compacted with high quality. If you do not plan to make it airtight, then it is recommended to fill in more gravel.

Thanks to this, the drains will be well and efficiently filtered. Well, in the event that you intend to make it airtight, then a ready-made concrete slab should be laid on a layer of compacted sand and gravel. You can also immediately pour a concrete screed directly into the pit.

Not so long ago, red bricks or thick boards were usually used for the walls of the pit. But now they are used less and less, although their popularity is still great.

This is mainly due to their low cost and availability. In addition, if brick is used, then it has a checkerboard pattern, which means that water will flow into the ground.

Thus, it will need to be pumped out much less often than if it were completely sealed.

Remember that if this particular technology is used, then it is not necessary to pour soil around it, but finely broken brick or crushed stone. Due to this, the liquid will be absorbed much faster.

In addition, some craftsmen reinforce the wall using old tractor tires.

Of course, you can try this method. But keep in mind, finding tractor tires in sufficient quantities is not so easy.

Despite the considerable advantages of the method described above, in recent years, more and more often, ready-made reinforced concrete rings manufactured at the factory are used to construct the walls of drain pits. They are delivered to the right place by trucks.

But since their mass is quite significant, a crane-manipulator is required for unloading. And that means additional costs.

In addition, it is necessary to have a convenient entrance to the place where it will be located.

In the same case, if this is not possible, then after unloading the concrete rings are rolled. To install them, it is advisable to build a homemade, block lift.

It is quite easy to make it. This does not require a complex tool and special skills. Rings should be installed in stages, one after the other.

Since you are dealing with a rather heavy load, you should pay attention to safety precautions. During the work, everything must be qualitatively fixed.

Do not treat it negligently, otherwise, it is likely that you can get seriously injured.

Work must be done in the following order:

• A hole is dug to a depth of 1 meter
• The block lifter sets the first ring
• The soil is again taken out, and supports are placed under the already installed ring, which should prevent it from sinking deep into the pit
• After that, the second is mounted on the first product, and they are fastened together with metal brackets necessary to prevent jamming of concrete blocks
• Next, we deepen the pit again, install supports and perform the procedure described above and do so, after each new ring
• The last to be mounted is a partition with an opening for the hatch
• We install the hatch, which is most often made of cast iron or plastic
• The bottom of the well should be covered with rubble and compacted with high quality

In order for the structure to be airtight, all joints should be carefully sealed with bitumen mastic. Do not forget about the hole intended for sewer pipe.

The gaps also need to be well lubricated. By the way, the pipe should not go in a straight line, but with a small one. Thanks to this, the liquid will drain better.

It is necessary to remember about the formwork, which is made of concrete. Holes are made in it for ventilation and an inspection hatch. It is recommended to make it double, and fill the gap between the two parts with foam.

By the way, it is desirable, after the drain pit is ready, to improve the area around it. Of course, this is not at all necessary, but still, this way you will achieve an attractive appearance of this place.

Often, various ornamental crops are planted in the ground for this. They not only delight the eye, but also mask the drain hole, making it invisible to others.

The whole procedure is quite simple and does not require special skills. The main thing is to follow the recommendations, take your time and follow the safety precautions and you will definitely succeed.

Chemistry for pits and arrangement of the entrance to it

After the structure is ready, you need to think about how it is needed as little as possible.

After all, as mentioned above, this procedure requires considerable costs.

Special chemistry, which is found in abundance on the shelves of specialized stores, can be of great help in this.

Thanks to its use, it is possible to significantly speed up the process of decomposition of various wastes, which means that the drain pit will become contaminated much more slowly.

Such chemistry is available in the form of tablets, powders, liquids. Which of these is best to choose is up to the owners to decide.

Since the microorganisms that appear in the water after the use of chemistry use all kinds of organic waste as food, they quickly decompose.

In addition, they can help you get rid of bad odors. Pretty quickly, the water in the drain pit becomes clear, and all solid particles sink to the bottom, turning into silt.

These microorganisms are not able to damage the material from which the structure is made. They will not harm the human body.

But from time to time it will be necessary to add chemicals to the liquid again, as they tend to gradually die. Thanks to them, you can use water for irrigation personal plot, as the water is absolutely clean and safe for plants.

Before a drain pit is built, you should also think about how it will best be reached by equipment.

This is not only a sewer truck, but also the vehicle that will deliver everything necessary for it. If you think about everything in advance, then in the future, the procedure for removing waste from it will be much easier and faster.

To do this, try to place this design closer to the gate. It is desirable that it has a hard coating. Please note, if you do not know how to properly make a drain hole for a bathhouse or at home, you need to find the necessary information, for example, on the Internet.

In addition, you should not plant flower beds and other plantings on the path of the possible following vehicles, as they will only interfere and most likely will be under the wheels of the vehicle.

The use of special chemicals will not only significantly save on cleaning waste from the pit, but also make the water clean and safe for, and by preparing the site for the entrance of equipment in advance, they will make the waste pumping procedure simple and quick.

As we can see, it is not difficult to build this structure on your own. All you need is a simple tool, the material, strength and desire necessary for this. If everything is done correctly, then a positive result will be ensured.

The stages of construction of a cesspool are presented in the video:

It is not enough to bring water into the house, after use it needs to be put somewhere. It’s hard to take out buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: water comes into the house by itself, and then it is taken out on foot. At least elementary sewerage is needed for a house or a summer residence. The option to simply remove the pipe from the house and drain the water to the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or pit is almost guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably PVC 110mm), a tee, a branch, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium fraction crushed stone, a shovel and a few hours of our precious time.
We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from a well or well and downstream of them downstream of groundwater. We dig a hole with a diameter greater than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (preferably deeper). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if metal, then with a grinder, if plastic, then with a hacksaw for wood with a small tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, not far from the bottom of the barrel. We fill at least 20 cm of gravel at the bottom of the pit and put the barrel upside down, orienting the hole under the pipe towards the house.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, leading it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation, or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe, the water flowing through it will warm it perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we put a tee with a small piece of pipe coming out above the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and let air out of the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We lead the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with gravel to the entire height of the barrel. At the bottom of the barrel, it is advisable to put some non-rotting material (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the pit with soil, carefully tamping it down. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally leading the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground near a buried barrel, you can put on a plastic fungus, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is an exclusively drainage sewer for the house, it will not cope with fecal effluents, it cannot be cleaned or serviced in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or from the bath. The same device has drainage wells from a septic tank.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: the depth of soil freezing + the height of the barrel + the height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2m + 0.9m + 0.2m = 2.3m). But digging so deep is hard and not necessary. Drains also heat the barrel.

If the soil at the installation site of the sewer is clayey, and the water from the barrel leaves slowly, then the sewer for the house can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer, and preferably a drainage pipe. This pipe may lead water to a drainage ditch at the boundary of the site, or it may not lead anywhere, ending in a dead end. The task of this pipe is to remove excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of ​​water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone pillow and is also covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be spoiled with a certain number of holes in the lower part to improve the flow of water, making it look like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is led into a drainage ditch.

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1. To be honest, I'm a little surprised that someone's sewer can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there ...

Reviews (38) on "The simplest drainage sewage system for a summer residence."

thanks for the useful article and adequate answers. tomorrow I’ll start doing it. I hope the pipe will not freeze in our Transbaikalia. Of course, I agree with you that you need to make a significant slope.

1. Depends on the distance and features of the problem being solved. It is better to make the 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances up to 5 (five) meters, you can make the 50th (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as more durable and frost-resistant. This is still an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. And what can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up.-get fat-zamylitsya? Or will it crash hard?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or gray (for internal wiring), since it will be used only in summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) -PVD -high pressure polyethylene. What do you say?
3. I have a plot with a slope. Along the fence just down the slope. I realized that it is better to dig in.
4. Soil - loam. And where does rainwater usually go from the roof? To another hole?

1. Answers Vladimir.
   1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loam, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general ... If it doesn’t break.
   This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, subject to the elementary laying rules.
   2. For "internal wiring" it will definitely not work. We need PVC for outdoor sewage. For internal sewage, PP is usually used. You won't dig it up for the winter...
   A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a PVD pipe (I haven’t heard anything about PVD pipes until now, maybe I don’t have much experience). In principle, you can do it, if you find it, only there may be problems with joining pipes with bends (turns) and leaving the house. If you are not a "specialist", then it is better not to experiment.
   4. Rain runoff is usually directed to the drainage system around the house, and it brings them to the drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - "drainage", corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and protection with geotextile.
   In loamy soil for house drains, it is imperative to make at least a small irrigation field (small drainage system just for that). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on arrivals”, then the usual crushed stone dressing around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

   Of course, you can bring rainwater into this sewer system, but ... Then there will be a high probability of damage to the pipes by autumn and spring waters during “zero crossings”, because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe already with ice) of these waters. Therefore they do drainage pipes perforated, i.e. "leaky" so that the water can go away by itself. And if we lay drainage pipes instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt up and get fat”), and will not work. This is not to mention possible unpleasant odors along all 20 meters of the pipe. So it is better to sewer separately, and rainwater drainage separately.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60 cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I will just make holes in the side of the log house and then go on with external wiring. Accordingly, I do not want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go along the ground.
And how to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 according to outer wall Houses? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

1. I didn't quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house, you put in fifty kopecks for the inside, i.e. PP pipe. You let her out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “foam” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then the transition to the 110th PVC, and you are already driving it. From the exit from the log house to the 110th PVC, you can start up the same fifty kopecks, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say without imagining a possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And I went 110th.
   In principle, it is permissible to put fifty kopecks on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is desirable that this is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and you need to fasten it well and carefully, making gaps for thermal expansion. Fifty PVC PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you have to look.
   And general advice, just in case, avoid right angles. Make them, if necessary, prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, and inserts between them. Right angles clog well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you got it right. It's just that not a single seller in stores (he went around about five) did not meet PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of the 110 pipe, I need to walk five fifty meters along the wall (check in the garage from below). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were laid earlier in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing on drain tanks suspended overhead.

1. No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely low-pressure polyethylene, it’s just that the dye was different. Look in specialized stores, at construction sites, where professional 4- and 6-meter sewer pipes are sold, without sockets. I'll show you how to connect them, it's not difficult. The Internet has tips for everything. Look in the store at: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, All Instruments store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. In extreme cases, you can also put 50 mm internal PP pipes, you just need to look after them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I will definitely check out their website.
Only in passing the question: I will finally find fifty dollars pvc pipes. But all sorts of turns and stuff also need PVC? This is probably unrealistic. I'll look online and on their website.
Thanks again for your attention.

1. Hello again, Vladimir.
   I ask your forgiveness. Having “surfed” the Internet in search of a fifty-kopeck piece of PVC, I really discovered that these pipes are only in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, put fifty dollars on PP, just look not for standard-cheap PP 1.8 mm, but 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, in non-responsible sections of the sewerage system, a fifty-kopeck piece of PP is installed without thinking about the consequences. You just have to keep an eye on this site, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the summer season.
   The PVC I found in Ufa is hardly suitable, they are for protecting electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer (!), Is a mystery to me. So do from home to the fence fifty dollars of PP. This is not possible, but if it is very necessary, then ...

Thank you for this article for the tips. I just had a situation that I bought myself a multistage pump. The plumber came and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork, no where not dug. When I got tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. And if I had a water outlet, then this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.

For residents of the private sector who are not connected to the sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic wastewater is always relevant.

Depending on the amount of drained water, you can choose suitable option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath;
• sealed cesspool - for a large number of drains;
• septic tank - for partial treatment and draining of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drain cesspool?

If the daily amount of discharged water does not exceed one cubic meter, a drain pit can be used. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bath. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a pillow of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

Through such a filtration cushion, water will slowly seep into the ground, being cleansed along the way.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold, which can be immediately buried.

Or you can make it yourself by concrete pit or by installing concrete rings on a concrete base.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

A septic tank is the best cesspool

If the amount of drain exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is unprofitable to order a monthly pumping out of the pit, the best way out is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than the usual latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold, which are enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely on your own.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has whole line advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;

A large area is not required to organize a filtration field;

You can organize one septic tank for two houses;

Depending on the type of effluent, pumping is required every few years;

A full cleaning can be carried out once every ten years.

But the disadvantages of such a septic tank are also present:

- significant labor costs - it is problematic to cope with the device of a septic tank alone;

- time - pouring cement into the formwork and its hardening takes about a month;

- additional equipment - to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or a drill with a mixer.

Site selection

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about the neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But to the house it can be placed almost close - 3 m from the foundation with a one-story building, and 5 m - with a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is solved - the greater the distance to the pit, the deeper you will have to dig a trench and insulate the pipe.

Be sure to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood water - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to arrange a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, it can not be buried completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step by step instructions on how to make a septic tank

After choosing a place for a septic tank, work begins on its organization. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people, the main chamber will be at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six - 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and it is used daily, the size of the chambers must be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small margin, since the filling of the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drains in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately overflow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a foundation pit is dug. The upper fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and arrange the beds.

An improved do-it-yourself cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber becomes silted, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and the final cleaning of the drain water takes place in the second chamber.

Cesspool with their own hands

Cesspool with their own hands. Communications. For residents of the private sector who are not connected to the sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic wastewater is always relevant. Depending on the amount of water drained, you can choose the appropriate option: a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option to make a drain in the bath; sealed cesspool - for a large one.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Inhabitants apartment buildings can not worry about the removal and disposal of biowaste, everything is done by housing and communal services for them. Those who live in a private house need to resolve such problems themselves. One solution is to build a cesspool. It does not require large installation costs, it perfectly performs the function of sanitary cleaning. You just need to know how to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

Choosing the location of the cesspool

There is a system of rules and regulations that controls the construction of a cesspool for a private house. Sanitary standards determine the location of the cesspool on the site, the distance from it to various outbuildings. When planning pits for biowaste, the following rules must be taken into account:

• The cesspool should be located from the living quarters at a distance not less than a dozen meters;
• From the cesspool to the fence should be more than a meter;
• When installing a bottomless pit, it is necessary to take into account the location of the wells. The nearest well should be at a distance of at least 30 meters.

The simplest cheap options

The predecessor of the cesspool was an ordinary pit dug in the soil, in which the walls were smeared with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, cisterns, and other old containers in the ground. Today, such tanks for collecting and partial waste treatment are installed only when the daily volume is not more than one cubic meter.

If the owner of a private house does not want to spend money on arranging a cesspool, he can use old car tires. It is only necessary to put them in a dug hollow, connecting them with bolts. Then the hollow is sprinkled with earth, a concrete slab is placed on top with a hole for the ventilation pipe, as well as a hatch for pumping out.

Popular types of structures

According to the characteristic differences in the design of the pit for biowaste, they are divided into absorbing and sealed. Septic tanks are used to collect, store and treat waste. These are structures with a more complex design.

Absorption tanks (bottomless)

A distinctive feature is that there is no bottom, because of this, the liquid, after being cleaned with a sand, gravel and brick filter, is sent to the soil. Absorbing capacity is the most inexpensive and easy to arrange. Due to the partial infiltration of treated effluents into the soil, there is much less need to call a sewage service.

The absorbing type is selected if there is no need to divert a lot of wastewater. Large volumes of soil will not be able to accept and process. Also, such a pit cannot be called an environmentally friendly option, because the waste, getting into the soil, will pollute it.

sealed containers

They are closed waterproof concrete / brick / gas silicate tanks. They must be emptied regularly after filling. If you know how to properly make an airtight type cesspool, you will be provided with an absolute absence of odors characteristic of the toilet, but sometimes you will have to call the vacuum cleaners. Remember that the use of cinder blocks for the construction of a cesspool is unacceptable (they quickly collapse when in contact with water).

The simplest solution for arranging a cesspool is the installation of a plastic tank purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, but it will be necessary to fill the bottom of the basin with a special cement screed and reinforce the walls with reinforcement.

Simple homemade cleaning structures

These are designs that not only perform deep cleansing, but also turn wastewater into fertilizer useful for the garden. Often they are a two- or three-chamber system. In the 1st chamber, collection and partial cleaning are carried out, in the 2nd and 3rd, complete waste processing takes place.

You can use old car tires. To install such a cesspool, you do not need a solid concrete foundation, a dense sand cushion with gravel thirty-five centimeters thick, as well as one decimeter screed is enough.

• To increase the capacity of the reservoir, the sides of the tires must be cut;
• A vertical concrete pipe with a diameter of about a couple of times smaller than that of tires is placed in a well made of tires. The upper cut of the pipe is a decimeter lower than the well constructed from tires;
• The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete to form a solid cylinder.

From above it will be necessary to make holes for infiltration and installation of pipes that will provide overflow. The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete tank. The areas where sewer pipes enter vertical concrete must be sealed.

How to build an absorption pit from concrete rings

• It is necessary to dig a mine-type hollow, its diameter should be approximately eighty centimeters larger than the diameter of the rings. You will need three rings;
• A concrete screed is made around the perimeter. This is the future basis for the rings;
• In the lower ring, make holes every decimeter so that the purified liquid can leave the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is five centimeters;
• The depth of the structure underground should not be more than three meters, otherwise it will become difficult to pull the sediment out of the cesspool;
• About a meter, the finished pit is filled with sand, brick, gravel and gravel mixed with soil;
• The outer basin is filled with the same mixture. Before backfilling, the cesspool is waterproofed, which will protect the structure from groundwater;
• At the end, a plate with a pair of holes is placed. One is for the hatch, the second for ventilation;
• To increase the quality of purification, it is recommended to place the well-filterer a little higher than the purification tank.

Installation of a sealed structure

The method of construction is similar, but it is not necessary to make infiltration holes, it is necessary to completely concrete the bottom. Reinforcement of the lower platform made of concrete is recommended. So that the reinforcement does not get stuck in concrete, it must be slightly raised and fixed on pegs.

Walls should be sealed. Bitumen is considered an inexpensive internal insulator, clay is considered an external one. If the walls of the cesspool consist of brickwork, they can be covered with plaster.

Brick laying takes much longer than concrete rings.. At the bottom, a concrete screed is made, bricks are laid in a circle / square. Before proceeding with laying, you need to wait a week after creating a concrete platform.

The sewerage pipeline must be slightly tilted in order to ensure the spontaneous departure of wastewater.

Toilet bin

Those who want to build a toilet also need to know how to properly make a cesspool. Most often, a small hole is dug, to which you can freely drive up for devastation. The cesspool is laid out with bricks or poured with concrete.

The depth can be arbitrary, it all depends on the soil of the litter. It is recommended to dig a cesspool to a layer of sand that will absorb waste. The bottom of the pit is covered with a sand-gravel mixture, gravel.

Other dimensions are set locally. Ventilation is recommended. A pipe that rises about six decimeters above the roof of the latrine will do.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Details on how in a private house you can make a cesspool with your own hands. How to choose a place. Best Options. Arrangement technology.

Cesspool in a private house - scheme, materials, device

A cesspool in a private house, the scheme of which is chosen in accordance with existing requirements and rules, is able to collect domestic sewage without the risk of soil contamination. Despite the fact that the construction of a pit is simpler than, for example, building a septic tank, there are certain nuances that directly affect the efficiency of such a sewer system and, accordingly, the comfort of living.

Pros and cons of using

The advantages of cesspools are determined the simplicity of their design. You can build such a structure quite quickly. In addition, its cost will be low - they often use the most affordable materials, including used ones.

The minus of the cesspool is, first of all, the need to pump out sewage. Depending on the circumstances (the volume of the pit, the number of people, the presence of a water-consuming household appliances) the frequency may vary, but the services of a sewer truck will always be one of your expenses.

Cesspool pumping with sewage equipment

Important: The maximum depth of the cesspool should not be more than 3 meters, otherwise there may be problems with its pumping.

Another significant drawback that you need to be aware of before you make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands is sanitary "unreliability", if we are talking about its leaky version. It is necessary to carefully consider the location of the cesspool and its design, calculate the required volume so that the structure does not poison the existence of the inhabitants of the house unpleasant odors and, even worse, did not cause harmful substances to enter the soil of the garden or the occurrence of infectious diseases.

Types of cesspools

The arrangement of cesspools in a private house largely depends on how the suburban building is used. For a small amount of drains and periodic residence, you can choose a pit without a bottom, but if a family of several people constantly lives in the house, it is better to prefer a sealed drive. Each of the options deserves more detailed consideration.

Cesspool without a bottom

A cesspool without a bottom is a kind of "well", the walls of which prevent runoff from entering the upper layers of the soil, and instead of the bottom, a kind of filter made of crushed stone or gravel is arranged. Passing through it, the effluents are partially filtered, after which they enter the soil and, passing through it, are cleaned better. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to constantly call for vacuum trucks. It will not be possible to do without cleaning at all, but its frequency can be significantly reduced.

In the photo, a diagram of a cesspool in a private house without a bottom

expedient waste separation and arrangement of separate pit latrines. In this case, the toilet pit will fill up more slowly (and, accordingly, less likely to require the call of special equipment), and drains from the shower, bathroom, kitchen sink with a minimum amount of insoluble inclusions will almost completely go through the filter into the soil.

One of the options for separating wastewater into different tanks

Use of bioactivators contributes to the decomposition of impurities in wastewater, improving the quality of cleaning and slower filling. Only sludge remains in the tank, and purified water is removed through a filter. Bacteria found in the soil act in a similar way, however, if the total volume of effluents exceeds 1 cubic meter, they will not be enough to process such an amount of liquid.

It is important to know that such a do-it-yourself cesspool for a private house has "contraindications".

• The close location of groundwater excludes the possibility of installing a model without a bottom, since when their level rises during a flood or during heavy rain the pit may fill up spontaneously. In addition, under such conditions, the quality of filtration is noticeably reduced - runoff does not pass through the soil, being cleaned, but immediately enters the groundwater.
• Clay soil has too low water permeability to ensure timely removal of the contents of the cesspool.
• The volume of such a cesspool should not be more than 1 cubic meter.

Sealed cesspool

Sealed structures with a bottom are only accumulators. Effluent is to be pumped out using a sewage machine. Despite the need to pay for the services of special equipment, this option has its advantages:

• sanitary safety and exclusion of the possibility of soil contamination and the spread of pathogenic bacteria,
• Can be used on all types of soil.

For sealed structures of small volume, ready-made waterproof containers are often used. A large cesspool in a private house, the scheme of which involves the collection of effluents from a large number of points, is most often built from one or another material that is suitable for its characteristics.

Cesspool Materials

Having considered the features of the materials often used for the construction of such structures and comparing them with the conditions of a particular object, it is possible to decide which cesspool in a private house will be the most efficient and economical.

Finished goods

The use of finished products can significantly reduce the lead time construction works and, in some cases, their complexity.

• Tires cars are used as blocks - they are installed one on top of the other, fixing with clamps, waterproof glue and sealing the joints. In most cases, tire cesspools do not have a bottom. The advantages of the option are low cost, easy and fast installation.

A cesspool made of tires is one of the cheapest options for organizing sewage

• concrete rings- Another option for block construction of cesspools. They weigh a lot, so lifting equipment will be required to install them in the pit. At the same time, construction will not take much time, and the resulting structure will be strong and durable. Concrete rings can be used for the construction of both hermetic storage tanks and filter structures without a bottom. In the first case, the rings are installed on a concrete foundation. Sealing joints and treating internal and external surfaces concrete products waterproofing compounds (one of the most affordable options is ordinary bitumen, although special mastics can be purchased if desired) is recommended regardless of the type of product.

Concrete rings for sewers

• iron or plastic barrels require a minimum of effort during installation, but their significant drawback is their small volume. As a drive, they are only suitable for summer cottages, and to equip a cesspool with a filter, the bottom will need to be removed. Iron products require the application of a waterproofing coating from the outside and inside for corrosion protection.

Plastic barrel as a sewer tank

• Plastic storage models fixing to the foundation is required to prevent them from floating up during a flood. In addition, at the stage of backfilling the mounted structure, it is recommended to fill the container with water to prevent its deformation due to squeezing with soil.

Plastic storage tank

Installation of plastic eurocubes

Construction Materials

The use of building materials slightly increases the construction time. At the same time, a significant advantage is that a do-it-yourself cesspool in a private house in this case can be arranged in any configuration, taking into account sanitary requirements and the layout of the site. It can be round or rectangular, including narrow and long, if it is more convenient to place such an option on the territory.

• Concrete poured structures are made using formwork by gradually increasing the height of the wall.
• Brickwork can be done in a circle, but more often, for reasons of convenience, brick pits are made rectangular.

Both options can be used for the construction of storage or filter structures and in most cases require the application of a double-sided waterproofing layer.

In certain situations, additional holes are made in the walls of the pit for better drainage.

Rules for choosing a place and volume

The volume of the cesspool should, according to sanitary standards, be no less than a three-day water consumption rate. The estimated number is considered to be the value of 200 liters per day per person, however, it is important to know that this figure is relevant for permanent residence. With a periodic visit to the dacha, it is less, and water is not consumed daily.

In a house with permanent residence for a family of 3, a pit of at least 1 cube is needed. Sometimes it is more convenient to use two small holes than one large hole. The scheme of a cesspool in a private house should take into account the necessary distances from significant objects - at least 30 m from the place of the fence drinking water, not less than 3 m from the garden and garden plants and 5 m from the road. At the same time, storage models should be positioned so that the sewage truck can easily drive up to it.

The layout of the cesspool

Cesspool cleaning

You should be aware that the operation of vacuum trucks does not guarantee complete cleaning reservoir. It is possible to pump out only liquid, while sediment will remain and accumulate at the bottom. Speaking about how to clean a cesspool in a private house, it should be noted that cleaning can be optimized by using special preparations.

• Bioactive complexes, which are colonies of bacteria, work effectively, eliminate odor and are environmentally friendly. However, at temperatures below +4 ° C, microorganisms die, so it is impossible to use such products in winter.
• Among chemicals, nitrate oxidizing agents are preferred, which are non-toxic and do not pose a danger to humans, domestic animals and plants. They are usually used in the cold season.

Important: To eliminate odors from the pit, which will be if special preparations are not used, ventilation of the cesspool in a private house is required. For its device, plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 60 cm, which are installed in the upper part of the pit, are suitable.

Proper arrangement of a cesspool in a private house will allow you to safely dispose of wastewater with minimal effort and without significant costs. In this case, the container will not be a source of unpleasant odor.

Cesspool in a private house: scheme, do-it-yourself device, video

Cesspool in a private house, scheme, device with filtering and storage tanks. Materials, features various designs. Choice of location and volume, cleaning.

Do-it-yourself cesspool - an overview and comparison of design options

For the townspeople, the problems of removal and disposal of domestic wastewater are solved by public utilities, but the adherents of a spacious country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order an installation on the site of a volumetric septic tank or a local treatment station, then the summer resident may well build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. She will perfectly cope with the important sanitary function, and will not require the allocation of too much funds for the arrangement.

The most simple and budget options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was dug into the ground simple pit, the walls of which were coated with clay, strengthened with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers in the ground. Now, such "reservoirs" for collecting and partial filtration of wastewater are satisfied only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

An elementary cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site for a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes it is completely forbidden by the sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanying the bans with the imposition of administrative penalties.

An elementary cesspool: from the simplest boarded container for a closet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner suburban area I really don’t want to spend money on a construction device, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be usefully used. It will be necessary just to lay the tires in the excavated pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is arranged outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire laid on top to connect the sewer pipeline. After the pit around the makeshift treatment plant, it is covered with soil, a concrete slab with a hole for ventilation pipe and hatch for pumping out.

The owner of the Nth amount of worn tires can build an excellent reservoir for collecting wastewater from them.

Common types of structures

According to the characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorbing structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of effluents inside and with biological and chemical cleaning methods.

It is unacceptable to violate the sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of the cesspool

Containers without a bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the "folk" cesspool. Them characteristic- the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the effluents, after being cleaned by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken bricks and other "ingredients", passes into the ground. The absorbing option is considered the most economical, in addition, the construction of a pit of this type may well be carried out by a performer who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. More savings: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, it is much less necessary to call vacuum trucks.

Design scheme of a cesspool without a bottom - drains are filtered through crushed stone

An absorbing variety of pits is chosen if there is no need to divert a large amount of wastewater, if in country house no jacuzzis, dishwashers and washing machines. A large volume of land will not be able to process and receive. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as one hundred percent effective procedures, which means that runoff from an absorbing pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste tanks

In their name there is a direct clue that speaks of the main design feature. In fact, these are closed containers made of impermeable concrete, brickwork, plastic, gas silicate blocks that need constant emptying after filling. Hermetic structures will ensure the complete absence of odors inherent in drains, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not applicable for the construction of a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container for collecting wastewater, bring a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call vacuum trucks to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank is to install a plastic container purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very strong argument in favor: the plastic construction can be installed independently of close level groundwater deposits. No harm will be done to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with waste masses, there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level, if the level has exceeded the limit, the tank should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are already more complex structures that perform not only deep cleaning, but also process the waste mass into fertilizer valuable for gardeners and gardeners. Most often they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical cleaning takes place, and in the subsequent chambers, specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for household and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the site. But in order to make a septic tank with overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The principle of operation of a three-chamber septic tank is a multi-stage purification of waste masses: in the first tank, the collected effluent is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers, finer purification is performed

If you don’t feel sorry for the efforts, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of "bald", but not worn to holes tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. For the installation of a septic tank from tires, a powerful concrete foundation is not needed, a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a capacity of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed is sufficient.

• To increase the volume of the reservoir created, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
• A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made up of tires, its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same tire size. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of rubber.
• The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete so that a monolithic concrete cylinder is obtained.

At the top, you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Pit design with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

• The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Consider the stages of installation of several design options.

absorbent

Owners of small country estates, who decide to make an elementary sewer with their own hands, most often choose this option. Attracts simplest design and the ability not to use the services of vacuum cleaners too often. The walls can be laid out of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by installing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but a crane is required to install them

1. It is necessary to dig a mine-type pit, the diameter of which will be approximately 80 cm larger than the diameter of the reinforced concrete ring. Rings will need 3 pieces.
2. Along the perimeter, leaving the central part free, it is necessary to make a concrete screed, it will serve as a support base for the rings.
3. In the lower ring, holes must be drilled every 10 cm so that the purified water can penetrate beyond the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is 5 cm.

Important. The depth of the underground structure should not exceed the limit of 3 m, otherwise it will be difficult to remove the dense silt sediment that has settled at the bottom of the pit.

Approximately one meter constructed "well" should be filled with sand, gravel, broken bricks, crushed stone mixed with soil.

Approximately a meter of the lower part of the absorbing sewer structure must be covered with a "folk" filter composition: sand, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick, as in the figure

Advice. In order to improve the quality of cleaning, it is recommended to supplement the filtering well with a sealed cleaning storage tank with overflow located just above.

Schematic design of a home-made septic tank: from a sealed cleaning tank, effluents are poured into an absorbing cesspool, from there purified water enters the filtration field

Sealed

The principle of construction is similar, only it is not necessary to form holes for the infiltration of treated effluents and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. So that the reinforcement does not “drown” in concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and fixed on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; on the outside, a home-made sewer object can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, laid out with bricks or gas silicate blocks, make a monolithic container, pour concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than the installation of concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid both in a circle and by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “ripen” before laying, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the laying period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of a sewer pipe. The connection point is located below the level of freezing recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of waste masses

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything easier and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the expectation of an average consumer. That is, it is not difficult to find the necessary kit.

1. The first thing is digging a pit according to the standard scheme for all pits.
2. With his own hands, the owner will first need to make a pillow at the bottom of the mine from a mixture of concrete and gravel. It should get stronger for a week, during which a kind of foundation needs to be slightly “irrigated” with water.
3. Then they order the delivery of the kit by car with a manipulator for the production of a consistent installation of the bottom, rings, cover.

A ready-made set of rings and floors made of concrete for the rapid construction of a cesspool

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of construction that meets the needs. Which costs are more important, what is the best way to save money, choose the owner and contractor himself, and knowing the design differences will help you make the right decision.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands - design options and installation steps

Types and arrangement of cesspools. Do-it-yourself installation and arrangement.

A do-it-yourself cesspool without pumping out is one of the possible inexpensive, and under certain conditions, quite rational options for an autonomous sewer system. To cope with the work on its arrangement and carry it out correctly, you need to know some of the nuances of this process.

To begin with, it is worth saying a few words about the legal aspects associated with the arrangement of a cesspool, a septic tank, and other local treatment facilities on the site. The fact is that it is impossible to create such objects recklessly on anything.

In order not to make problems for yourself, and autonomous sewage was legalized, before proceeding to work, it is necessary to issue a SES building permit. This is due to the fact that any waste that enters the sewer containers is almost always a favorable environment for the development of a large number of harmful microorganisms. Therefore, sanitary and epidemiological supervision keeps the construction and operation of such structures under control - in order to protect groundwater from biological or chemical contamination that can lead to the spread of various diseases.

In order to obtain a permit for the construction of a local sewer, you will have to collect a package of documents. The required list includes the following:

1. Documents confirming the ownership of the site and the main building located on it.
2. Technical passport with a plan of the territory of the site, on which all buildings without exception are indicated.
3. A copy of the plan, on which it is necessary to determine the proposed location of the drain pit or septic tank.
4. The project of the device of a septic tank or pit. It will be helped to develop in the design organization.
5. The project (plan) of a residential building with the location of the bathroom in it.

An example of a topographic survey of a site

• Topographic survey of the site, which is carried out by specialists of geodetic organizations. The survey plan displays not only all the buildings and boundaries of the site, its relief, hydrological resources, the presence of vegetation, soil type, and other necessary data.
• Agreement with organizations involved in the removal of various household waste.

The collected documents and the application are submitted to the regional SES or to an organization engaged in protection activities environment. A building permit will have to wait about a month. The organization issuing the permit has the right to control the correct operation of the local sewage system, the timeliness of cleaning, and compliance with environmental standards.

The location of the cesspool on the site

It is clear that before submitting documents, the first thing to do is to determine the location of the cesspool on your own. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to certain requirements established by the current rules.

Scheme of the permissible location of the cesspool on the site

These rules include the following items:

• The domestic wastewater storage tank should be located on the territory adjacent to the house at a distance of at least 4 ÷ 5 m from it, as well as from residential buildings located in neighboring areas. This is explained by the fact that water penetrating into the soil should not have a negative, eroding effect on the foundations of structures.

By the way, it is impossible not to mention that if the cesspool is combined with a yard toilet, then according to the requirements of SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 (sanitary rules for maintaining the territories of settlements), p.p. 2.3.2., the distance between residential buildings and it should be at least 8÷10 m.

• From the drain pit to the fence separating the plots, the distance must be at least one meter. Nobody needs conflicts with neighbors. If possible, it is better to increase this distance even up to 3÷4 meters.
• If a well or well is equipped on the site, then the cesspool must be organized at the greatest possible distance from them. To determine the minimum allowable distance between the water intake and drain pit the composition of the soil on the site is also taken into account:

- clay soil - at least 20 m;

- loam - not less than 30 m;

- sandy or sandy loam soil - at least 50 m.

If the house is connected to the water supply, then the sewer facilities should not be closer than 10 m from the laid pipe.

• When the site is adjacent to natural reservoirs, a cesspool or septic tank cannot be closer than 30 m from standing water (lake, pond) and 10 m from flowing water (river, stream).
• From the road, from the gas pipeline laid underground, the distance cannot be less than 5 meters.
• Within a radius of 3 meters there should be no trees, 1 meter - bushes.
• The depth of the pit should be no more than 3 meters, otherwise the drains can directly penetrate the groundwater. In addition, a deeper tank will be difficult to maintain.
• It is unacceptable to discharge effluents outside the boundaries of the site without an appropriate permit. This, by the way, also applies to connecting to the central sewer - self-will in this matter is prohibited.

Options for arranging a container for collecting sewage

There are several options for arranging containers for the collection, accumulation and partial processing of liquid household waste:

A cesspool without a bottom, with proper arrangement, will last quite a long time without pumping

• Cesspools, with reinforced various materials walls, but with an open bottom. Due to this, liquid waste waste, dissolving, goes into the ground. With such a simple approach, the pit may not require pumping out for a long time, for several years, especially if anaerobic bacteria are regularly introduced into the tank, capable of processing part of the solid waste into water and carbon dioxide.

The problem is that SES is very likely to categorically oppose such sewerage. So the possibility of building such a simplified version should be clarified in advance.

• Hermetically equipped containers of large volume, with walls made of concrete rings or concreted. This variant of the pit requires periodic cleaning with the help of specialized equipment - calling a sewage truck.
• Installation of a sealed plastic container buried in the ground, which is also pumped out by vacuum trucks as it is filled.