Simple cesspool. Cesspool with their own hands

This topic is completely uninteresting to a city dweller sitting in his apartment in high-rise building. She is also not interesting to the inhabitant of a luxurious mansion.

It is for lovers of country life or for people living in their own homes without amenities. They themselves need to think about the arrangement of acceptable conditions for their lives. Let's try to consider the construction of drain pits. The simplest drain pits that provide acceptable sanitary norms life.

Arrangement of a drain pit

Before starting construction, it is necessary to determine the height of the level of occurrence ground water. This is very important point. If it is high, that is, the waters lie quite close to the surface of the earth, it will not work to make a deep hole. Generally high level minus for the construction of such a pit.

An area with such an occurrence of water may be subject to flooding in the spring when the snow melts, or even during heavy rains, the pit will overflow, and its contents will spill over the area, which is very unpleasant and fetid.

Helpful information ! You can make a hole 2.5 meters deep if the groundwater is below 8 meters.

The stages of building a drain pit are as follows:

• First, a place is chosen where it will be located. Everything is considered - the distance from the house, from the water intake, neighbors, the height of the terrain.
• Next, consider its volume. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the tank of the sewage truck, if there is an intention to call it in the future.
• Materials for construction, their varieties are selected.
• The construction itself, the direct erection of the structure.
• Giving a civilized appearance to the territory near the pit, its arrangement.

If there are financial and other opportunities, you need to hire an excavator, he will dig a hole in a couple of hours. And if you have the strength, free time and want to save money, you can do this work yourself. How long this will take is unknown.

Helpful information! The distance from the pit to the house should not be small, the smallest is 5 meters, but more is better if possible.

When choosing the size of the pit before its construction, the following factors must be considered:

• How often do they live in the house - year-round or only in the summer season.
• The number of people living in the house matters.
• The required amount of water per day per person. 200 liters per day is the norm, but it is very approximate.

After calculating the volume, you can lay the pipeline. Pipes should go with a noticeable slope, 7 centimeters per meter of pipe, that is, the dependence here is such that the longer the pipe, the greater the slope.

There are two types of pits - airtight and without a bottom. Of course, each of them has its own characteristics that should be considered.

Drain hole without a bottom

This is the simplest type of drain pit. The liquid from such a pit gradually goes into the ground, solid waste is pressed. When the pit is full, it is buried and built elsewhere. Or call services to clean the pit.

With such a pit, the daily discharge into it should not exceed cubic meter. Such a pit cannot be placed above the water intake or on the same line with it, its waters can get into drinking water.

It should be no closer than 50 meters from all water intakes. Of course, this is a very problematic hole. All restrictions must be met, since it is necessary to protect the environment, and pollution of groundwater and soil is a crime that is punishable by a large fine.

In no case should there be a well near such a pit, as it will certainly be polluted. These pits are simple, do not require special expenses, but, for obvious reasons, are rarely used, they leave our lives.

Sealed drain pit

Such a pit can be made of concrete, brick, wood, concrete rings, all of which are perfect. After construction, it is carefully waterproofed.

Despite the fact that this is also a very simple and affordable device, it is already much better, as it eliminates infection. environment. There is no need to worry about the water in the water intake, and besides, it does not matter at what height the groundwater occurs. Provided good waterproofing, and this is easily achievable, the pit can be built to any depth.

Varieties of pits with a sealed bottom:

• Brick pits. Naturally, a pit is being dug. Its bottom is well compacted, and then filled with a mixture of cement, sand, gravel and water. After the bottom hardens well, the walls of the pit are lined with bricks. An old, used brick is also quite suitable. You can also use ceramic bricks, it is more reliable, you can and successfully - natural stone. Then a roofing material is placed between the ground and the masonry. It serves as additional waterproofing. And the remaining space between the ground and the roofing material is filled with a solution of concrete.
• drain hole from reinforced concrete rings. Here you can not do without a crane. You can dig a hole in advance and use a crane that will unload the rings brought after the purchase, that is, lay them immediately at the future place of service. The joints between the rings must be sealed with cement. The number of rings is calculated based on the depth of the pit and the height of the ring. The usual height is 1 meter. Such pits are very reliable and serve for a long time. This is their main advantage.
• Pit from a plastic tank. This is a very convenient, but the most expensive option. Tanks are completely ready, sealed. They are very durable and have a long service life. Great option!

Some craftsmen build pits from barrels, cutting off the bottom, using cases washing machines, who have served their time, stack the old wheels of cars on top of each other, full scope for fantasy.

There are pits with a double drain. For example, for draining from a bath or bathroom - without a bottom, and from the kitchen and toilet - a sealed pit. It is convenient and more economical.

The pit needs to be cleaned from time to time. To do this, it is possible different ways.

• Call for sewage equipment. The pleasure is quite expensive. It is often unlikely that you will be able to use this service. And so, please, call, they will come to convenient time. It is imperative to provide a good entrance so that the driver is comfortable and the flower beds are not damaged. If the pit is very deep, it will not be possible to clean it completely, the length of the machine hose will not be enough.
• The use of biological products. Under the influence of these drugs, waste and waste products decompose into odorless water and a solid. The liquid can be pumped out with a special fecal pump and even use it as a fertilizer. Cleansing bacteria come in the form of powder, tablets, liquid. Instructions are attached to them without fail, according to which it is necessary to act. They do not fall asleep in an empty pit, they will simply die there without food. The preparations are septics and antiseptics, it is impossible to say that they are cheap. They will not completely clean the pit, anyway, occasionally, however, you will have to call the sewers and ask for their help.

Everyone can choose for himself the most suitable way to clean the drain pit in his area.

The business of the owner is whether to build a drain pit on the site. One has only to say that there is no simpler way to construct an autonomous sewage system on the site. Opponents of this method talk about the smell, the risk of flooding, very fast filling and the cost of cleaning. In general, we repeat, everyone decides for himself.

In country houses, in most cases, it is not possible to connect to a centralized sewerage system, so the owners have to look for options on how to properly equip it so that it performs its functions efficiently.

One of the easiest and most convenient ways is cesspool. It is economical compared to autonomous sewers, allows residents country houses enjoy all the achievements of civilization.

Two cesspools

But the cesspool requires proper care, in the absence of which residents face very unpleasant problems. This is a fetid smell on the site and in the house, sewage overflow with sewage, flooding of the territory with sewage. In some cases, they decide to bury the old hole, and dig a new one next to it. You can go the other way and install two cesspools on your site that would complement each other's work.

During operation, the cesspool is constantly clogged with solid waste that accumulates at the bottom. If the water goes into the ground, then the fecal matter remains at the bottom, fat accumulates on the walls. Periodically, the cesspool must be cleaned independently or with the help of professional equipment. The call for vacuum trucks is becoming more frequent every time, the functioning of the cesspool is deteriorating, it no longer absorbs liquids as efficiently, even if it has only recently been cleaned. The fact is that the drainage system and the soil become clogged, losing its capacity over time.

In this case, it is worth considering that. You can bury the old one, or you can use both to increase the performance of the sewer system.

New cesspool

Note! The construction of a second cesspool will be needed in areas where clay soil or loams. In this way, the carrying capacity of the soil can be improved, as a result of which the cesspool will cope with the processing and absorption of waste faster and more efficiently.

How two cesspools work

The principle of operation of two cesspools is quite simple. The advantage of this method is that now pumping and cleaning can be carried out much less frequently, the possibility of overflowing the cesspool and all the unpleasant consequences of this phenomenon is excluded. How do two cesspools work on the site?

1. Solid and liquid sewage through the sewer pipe enters the old pit.
2. Solid waste settles at the bottom of the tank, liquids overflow through the connecting pipe into the second pit.
3. In the second cesspool, liquid waste passes through the drainage layer, is cleaned and goes deep into the ground.

During operation, only the first cesspool needs to be cleaned, since all solid waste, fecal masses are retained there. The second tank is used for the disposal of only liquid sewage, it becomes clogged very rarely, cleaning may be needed every two to three years.

Construction

To build a sewer system that involves the use of two cesspools for waste processing, you need to know some of the design features of such structures. First of all, you should determine the distance between the two cesspools. It depends on the nature of the soil. On sandy soils, this distance should be greater than on clay soils. You should also take into account the location of other economic structures and a residential building.

Material selection

It is best if both tanks are made of the same material. Most often used for this. They are strong, reliable, durable, resistant to microorganisms, resistant to deformation, resistant to chemicals. In addition, concrete rings perfectly strengthen the ground.

Sometimes brickwork is used to build a sewer system with two cesspools, but this option is more costly and not as reliable.

Subsequence

There is nothing complicated about how to make a second cesspool. If one cesspool already exists, you need to dig a second container. The distance between them should be small so that it is convenient to connect two cesspools. To do this, you can use plastic or metal pipes. The bottom of the second pit should be covered with a filtration layer. This is crushed stone with sand, construction debris.

Two cesspools on site

Two cesspools are a convenient, economical solution. This design will prevent unpleasant problems, for example, the spread bad smell on the territory of the site, overflow of the cesspool. The only thing to remember is the observance of sanitary and hygienic standards, in particular, how far the sewerage can be from a well, wells and a residential building.

For seasonal living in the country or with a small amount of water consumed, it is not necessary to install an expensive treatment plant. Optimal location disposal of wastewater will become a cesspool with their own hands without pumping. Its design is very simple, but the construction process is laborious.

The layout of the cesspool

Types of cesspools

The simplest and most proven option for autonomous sewage is a drain pit. By design, they are of three types:

• Sealed containers in which wastewater accumulates. They are environmentally friendly, easy to install, but require constant pumping costs.
• A pit without a bottom is arranged to collect all domestic wastewater discharged into the soil.
• Septic tank - the design of the structure provides for the sedimentation and purification of polluted water.

Frequent pumping of the drain pit is an expensive service that accompanies the spread of an unpleasant odor. It is possible to completely abandon it only when installing a biological station, but it is quite realistic to reduce the call for vacuum trucks to once every 3-4 years.

Cesspool device without pumping

Absorbing tank without bottom - affordable way autonomous sewage devices, which the owners implement on their own. Its design is made in the form of a well, on the bottom of which a layer of filtration materials is poured. Household drains by drain pipe enter the pits, the liquid seeps through the filter at the bottom, and large fractions are retained. Microorganisms in the soil recycle organic matter from drains and disinfect them.

The size of the pit is selected according to water standards per person, which are 150-200 liters per day. The liquid leaves the reservoir after 3 days, so the daily volume is tripled. For a family of 3, a 1.5 cubic meter pit is needed. m.

Attention. Bacteria will not be able to cope with a large volume of water, and there will be a threat of contamination of the soil. With daily consumption of more than 1 cu. m of water, it is necessary to install a septic tank.

Advantages of a drain pit:

• simple design;
• affordable cost of materials;
• quick installation.

Disadvantages:

• bad smell;
• environmental threat;
• laborious installation by hand.

Choosing a place for a hole

The location of the facility for collecting wastewater is determined special rules and norms. These recommendations allow you to protect water sources, the foundation of the house and green spaces from pollution in the event of an increase in the water level in the drain pit. Sanitary rules define the following distances:

• to the reservoir - 30 m:
• to the well with sandy soil - 50 m, with clay soil - 20 m;
• to trees - 3 m;
• at least 5 m to the foundation of the house;
• to the border of the neighboring plot - 2 m.

It is important to take into account the relief of the territory, a low-lying area is not suitable for a drain tank. During heavy rains and snowmelt, water will fill the hole. The depth of groundwater is also taken into account, it should be 1 meter lower from the bottom of the reservoir.

Design features of a cesspool on various soils

The waste disposal time depends on the throughput of the soil. Sandy or peat soils are characterized by a high rate of liquid absorption, but their filtration qualities are insufficient. Polluted runoff can reach the aquifer and poison it. In this case, part of the bottom and wall of the reservoir is concreted in order to reduce the area through which drains pass.

On the clay soil the opposite situation arises - the liquid slowly seeps into the soil and there is a constantly high water level in the pit. The problem is solved by creating an additional drainage system. Several plastic sewer pipes filled with gravel are buried in the bottom of the pit to a depth of 1 meter. Their upper edge protrudes 1 meter from the bottom of the tank, and the walls are perforated. The design serves at the same time for filtration and removal of drains.

Another method will require additional costs; it involves the construction of a second well nearby, connected to the pit by an overflow. When the water level rises, it will flow into a neighboring structure, and the drainage area will double.

Preparatory work

Having decided on a place for the drive, earthworks begin. This is the first stage in the construction of any type of autonomous sewage system. The pit is dug according to the calculations made for the optimal volume of the cesspool. The depth of the sump should not exceed 3 meters, this will allow, in case of silting, to pump out from the very bottom. The walls of the pit are leveled for the subsequent installation of the selected material.

Advice. You can save on calling an excavator to dig a pit if you do it simultaneously with the construction of the foundation of the house.

Materials for making a pit: pros and cons

To make a cesspool cheap, site owners are ready to use improvised materials: bricks, cinder blocks, tires and boards. If the first two materials are strong enough, then the rest are suitable for temporary construction, since under the action of moisture and chemical reactions quickly fall into disrepair. A high-quality and durable storage tank is built from monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete rings and bricks.

Drainage pit made of reinforced concrete rings

If you can dig a pit yourself, then you will have to order to install heavy rings crane. The dimensions of the pit must exceed standard diameter 50 cm rings so that waterproofing can be performed. When installing several products, one must be factory-perforated, specially made for the filtration well. If whole rings are purchased, then you can fill the holes with your own hands. Their diameter is 5-8 cm, and the distance from each other is 30 cm, the holes are staggered.

The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand to a depth of 20 cm and a layer of gravel or crushed stone to a height of 20-30. These rocks will become a filter that traps fecal waste in the pit.

The joints of the rings are smeared with cement mortar, their outer part is covered bituminous mastic for waterproofing. An entry hole is cut into the top ring sewer pipe. The pipeline itself is laid in a trench below the soil freezing line. The structure is covered with a concrete floor slab made with a hatch.

Pit made of concrete rings

Storage Pros:

• durability;
• quick assembly from prefabricated parts;
• high performance.

• the complexity of installation;
• the need for pumping is not completely excluded.

Cesspool made of bricks

The shape of the sump is chosen arbitrarily; square, round and rectangular drives are built. The material used is solid red brick laid on cement mortar. At the bottom of the excavated pit, a sand cushion 20 cm high is arranged. A formwork of boards is laid on top of it and a concrete screed is poured.

Advice. For better water drainage, before pouring concrete, wells up to 1 meter deep are drilled to wall up perforated pipes.

Brick laying is carried out in two ways - with an interval of half or a quarter of a brick. Thanks to this design, water is discharged evenly. From above, the drive is closed with a concrete slab, which you can make yourself.

Drainage pit made of bricks

Floor manufacturing

The plate should protrude beyond the perimeter of the pit by 30 cm on each side. The work area is marked with pegs with a stretched rope. A sheet of tin is laid on the pit and covered plastic wrap. Reinforcing strapping is performed on top of the waterproofing in increments of 20 × 20 cm. When preparing the reinforcement, a frame is inserted that bounds the hatch. A ventilation pipe is installed to remove gases. Planed boards are taken for formwork and placed along a stretched rope. The finished structure is poured with concrete, rammed and leveled. The manhole cover is made simultaneously with the stove or they buy metal. After the concrete has set, the tinplate is removed in the place left for the cover.

Concrete cover

Advice. During the 4 weeks while the concrete is curing, it is not recommended to carry out floor loads.

The plate must be airtight and rise above ground level. This will avoid catastrophic filling during rain. AT winter period the manhole cover is insulated so that the pit does not freeze.

• affordable price;
• simple installation;
• good outflow of liquid into the ground.

• siltation of the walls;
• destruction of bricks under the influence of effluents.

How to extend the life of a cesspool

The technology of an eternal cesspool should include several prerequisites:

• use of durable and durable material, which is not susceptible to corrosion;
• the use of anaerobic bacteria that contribute to the decomposition of organic waste;
• a two-part pit device, after filling the first storage tank, the liquid flows down the pipe into the second one, the volume of the pit doubles.

A structure that meets all requirements will be a two-chamber cesspool made of monolithic concrete. The walls of the structure are poured over the formwork, an overflow pipe is installed in the partition at an angle. The outer part of the walls is treated with bituminous mastic to protect against moisture. A mixture of crushed stone and gravel is used as a filter layer in a bottomless storage tank. The pit is covered with a concrete slab with a hatch and a ventilation pipe.

The addition of biological preparations reduces the formation of odor and accelerates the process of decomposition of organic matter. Anaerobic bacteria do not tolerate low temperatures so that they do not die in winter, the pit needs to be insulated. Microorganisms are sensitive to the composition of effluents, so chemicals should not be poured into the sewer.

A cesspool is necessary for suburban areas; making it yourself will allow you to arrange a structure with the lowest financial costs.

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For the townspeople, the problems of removal and disposal of domestic wastewater are solved by public utilities, but the adherents of a spacious country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order an installation on the site of a volumetric septic tank or a local treatment station, then the summer resident with his own hands may well build a cesspool from inexpensive or waste materials. She will perfectly cope with the important sanitary function, and will not require the allocation of too much funds for the arrangement.

The most simple and budget options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was dug into the ground simple pit, the walls of which were coated with clay, strengthened with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers in the ground. Now, such "reservoirs" for collecting and partial filtration of wastewater are satisfied only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

An elementary cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site for a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes it is completely forbidden by the sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanying the bans with the imposition of administrative penalties.

An elementary cesspool: from the simplest boarded container for a closet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner suburban area I really don’t want to spend money on a construction device, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be usefully used. It will be necessary just to lay the tires in the excavated pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is arranged outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire laid on top to connect the sewer pipeline. After the pit around the makeshift treatment plant covered with soil, laid on top concrete slab with hole for ventilation pipe and hatch for pumping out.

The owner of the Nth amount of worn tires can build an excellent reservoir for collecting wastewater from them.

Common types of structures

According to the characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorbing structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of effluents inside and with biological and chemical cleaning methods.

It is unacceptable to violate the sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of the cesspool

Containers without a bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the "folk" cesspool. Them characteristic- the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the effluents, after being cleaned by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken bricks and other "ingredients", passes into the ground. The absorbing option is considered the most economical, in addition, the construction of a pit of this type may well be carried out by a performer who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. More savings: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, it is much less necessary to call vacuum trucks.

Design scheme of a cesspool without a bottom - drains are filtered through crushed stone

An absorbing variety of pits is chosen if there is no need for a drain a large number drains, if country house no jacuzzis, dishwashers and washing machines. A large volume of land will not be able to process and receive. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as one hundred percent effective procedures, which means that runoff from an absorbing pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste tanks

In their name there is a direct clue that speaks of the main design feature. In fact, these are closed containers made of water-resistant concrete, brickwork, plastic, gas silicate blocks that need constant emptying after filling. Hermetic structures will ensure the complete absence of odors characteristic of drains, but will force owners to regularly call sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not applicable for the construction of a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory plastic container to collect wastewater, bring a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call a sewer for emptying

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank is to install a plastic container purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is desirable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and reinforce the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very strong argument in favor: the plastic construction can be installed independently of close level groundwater deposits. No harm will be done to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with waste masses, there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level, if the level has exceeded the limit, the tank should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are already more complex structures that perform not only deep cleaning, but also process the waste mass into fertilizer valuable for gardeners and gardeners. Most often they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical cleaning takes place, and in the subsequent chambers, specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for household and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the site. But in order to make a septic tank with overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The principle of operation of a three-chamber septic tank is a multi-stage purification of waste masses: in the first tank, the collected effluent is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers, finer purification is performed

If you don’t feel sorry for the efforts, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of "bald", but not worn to holes tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. For the installation of a septic tank from tires, a powerful concrete foundation is not needed, a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a capacity of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed is sufficient.

• To increase the volume of the reservoir created, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
• A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made up of tires, its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same tire size. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of rubber.
• The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete so that a monolithic concrete cylinder is obtained.

At the top, you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Pit design with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

• The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

Consider the stages of installation of several design options.

absorbent

Owners of small country estates, who decide to make an elementary sewer with their own hands, most often choose this option. Attracts simplest design and the ability not to use the services of vacuum cleaners too often. The walls can be laid out of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by installing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of bricks, it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but a crane is required to install them

Sealed

The principle of construction is similar, only it is not necessary to form holes for the infiltration of treated effluents and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. So that the reinforcement does not “drown” in concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and fixed on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. Cheap option for internal insulation - bitumen, outside a home-made sewer object can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, laid out with brick or gas silicate blocks, make a monolithic container, pour concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than the installation of concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, suit concrete screed, and you can lay bricks, both in a circle and by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “ripen” before laying, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the laying period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of a sewer pipe. The connection point is located below the level of freezing recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of waste masses

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything easier and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the expectation of an average consumer. That is, it is not difficult to find the necessary kit.

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of construction that meets the needs. Which costs are more important, what is the best way to save money, choose the owner and contractor himself, and knowing the design differences will help you make the right decision.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

• aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity aluminum braid is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of a flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and Maximum temperature transported medium - +95 °C.
• Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red - with hot.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and fixtures for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

• clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high occurrence of groundwater;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
• violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
• there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

• top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• at a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m can grow on high beds vegetables and flowers of the same year;
• the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
• optimal groundwater depth for Agriculture- from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth it drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, production building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and a system test report internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the test report of internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.