modern houses are built higher and higher, and concrete blocks do not become lighter. And therefore, if you think carefully, you can build a small crane with your own hands. Such a carrying capacity is not large, about two hundred kilograms, although, most likely, it can lift more weight, but it is not advisable to overload it greatly. This design turns out to be completely collapsible, its components are obtained by weighing approximately 20-30 kilograms, so assembling such a crane alone will not be any particular problem. In addition, a similar design is also easily transported; the body of a Chinese pickup truck was quite suitable for me.
Recall that earlier we already published an article about a home-made baby crane, who are interested in watching.
crane device
The cargo winch of my design is a worm gear on electric drive at 600 W, but the boom winch is a manual drive, organized on the same gearbox. Outriggers with screw stops are borrowed from building supports. Drums for winches were machined from rotors from electric motors, suitable in size were selected.
On the basis of the mobile platform, there are four wheels taken from the conveyor, thanks to which the crane can be moved from one place to another without any problems, only if the outriggers of the crane are removed. Such an operation to remove and install outriggers takes about five minutes. Therefore, the crane is quite mobile. But there is not a big drawback, to move the crane it is necessary to lower the boom to zero, otherwise it becomes impossible to move the crane, as its balance is disturbed.
The boom itself has a length of 5 meters, the pipe was picked up by O75 mm, and at the base of the boom itself there is a square-shaped profile made of two corners. There is also a portal for raising the boom, as well as a turning unit made from a hub from a truck. As a counterweight, a bed was taken from a non-functioning machine along with four tracks from a caterpillar mechanism. The brake in the winch is not provided in this case, because it is not necessary. There is also no brake in the turn itself, due to the fact that the speeds are very low, and, therefore, there is practically no inertia.
The minimum thickness of the metal used in my crane is about 3 mm, as an outrigger and base as a whole, a rectangular pipe is used, having dimensions of 85 * 50 and 85 * 55 - this is a kind of remains from agricultural equipment. The base of the tower is made of channel 200. A powerful bearing is inserted into the hook cage, therefore, the hook is able to rotate regardless of the chain hoist, to prevent overlap or twisting of the cable itself.
Stop screws 400 mm long, as a result of which the crane can be installed on very uneven surfaces.
There is one small flaw associated with the wheels. The thing is that the wheels used in this case, when moving on loose soil, simply burrow into it, on a hard, compacted surface - everything is fine. This crane is considered disposable, that is, after performing necessary work it is dismantled for scrap metal or for shelter before next application. That is why this design has an insignificant load capacity, not very outstanding strength.
The manufacturing time for such a crane will take about three days, taking into account the preparation of all the necessary components. In this case, the gearboxes were obtained from what came to hand, the gearboxes have such gear ratios of 1/30 and 1/35. , output parameters on the shaft 600 W, capacitor capacitance 80 microfarads. All installations, excluding counterweights, weigh up to 250 kg, the cost of such a design is 4000 rubles. Mostly used components are borrowed from other equipment, only cables and bearings are new here.
Such a crane without problems lifts one and a half hundred kilograms of cargo, more, so far it has not been possible to move it at home.
The main components of the crane photo
This device can be useful in two- or three-story private houses for lifting oversized cargo. Also, the process of making a mini crane for the home is a great workshop for those who like to make different interesting crafts with your own hands.
For this homemade product, you will need a gear unit with a worm gear. As an electric drive, you can use a corded electric drill or a conventional cordless screwdriver. If desired, you can install a separate engine from some household appliance.
Lifting mini-crane: the main stages of work
As a base for a homemade homemade mini-faucet, you can use a thick steel plate welded with the letter "G". A gear unit will be mounted on one side, and a steel coil for winding the cable on the other (its diameter directly depends on the length of the cable).
To connect the shafts of the coil and the gearbox, you will need to make a couple of adapters of different diameters. You can also use a piece steel pipe with two holes for screws. But adapters are still more reliable.
When the main structural elements are assembled and fixed, it remains to make only the rotary mechanism and the boom of the mini-crane, at the end of which you need to fix the pulley for the steel cable. Then we clean the welding seams, process the surface with a grinding disc and paint.
Many people are interested in how to make a do-it-yourself crane design. Such a device can help in the construction of a house, utility rooms needed on the farm, a granary and a feed warehouse.
Drafting a project
A crane is needed to build a house. Let's consider how to independently make the design of a miniature crane for lifting construction loads to a height. It is necessary to make a mobile collapsible device.
First, they draw up and calculate a project for the manufacture of the apparatus:
- The main part of the structure is the support frame. It is installed on wheels or permanently.
- The rotation unit of the unit is fixed on the running frame.
- The boom can be rotated thanks to the creation of electric or manual control.
- The unit can be disassembled into parts for easy transportation.
- The crane will be stable thanks to the creation of a block of counterweights and steel cable braces.
- The load will be lifted using a block and a winch.
- You need to assemble a crane with your own hands.
Blueprints
To make a crane, first of all, they draw up a project diagram and drawings of the main components. Consider the manufacture of a manual crane design. It would be possible to make an apparatus on electricity, which makes it possible to move the load using a device on a long cable, as happens in factory designs. But then the complexity of manufacturing nodes increases, this will lead to an increase in the cost of the finished product and an increase in the time for its creation. Therefore, we will focus on the manufacture of a manual model.
Welding
All connections of components and parts are performed by welding. This requires a welding machine. It can be rented while working on the execution of the crane or bought in a specialized salon.
Construction assembly
Prepare:
- rope;
- washers;
- corners and channels;
- pipe;
- grinder;
- welding machine.
The frame should be made of a steel corner 63x63x5 mm. An arrow 5 m long is made from a pipe having a diameter of 55 mm. To strengthen the unit, use corners measuring 30x30x3 mm.
The load capacity of such a homemade crane will be about 150 kg. If it is necessary to lift panels with a larger mass, then it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of chain hoists, which are a device for lifting loads. The chain hoist is made of blocks, connected to each other by a cable. This cable should wind the blocks in a circle. The chain hoist allows you to lift the panels, while applying less force than the weight of the load.
Polyspast wins in strength 3-4 times. In this case, friction losses are taken into account, which are 10%. The greater the gain in strength, the smaller the distance that the tool can move the panels.
You can prepare and make all the details in 7-10 days.
Another 2 days are needed to assemble the mechanism. The lifting scheme is made in the form of a 2-fold chain hoist. The boom turning unit is a 6-fold chain hoist. The turntable is made by attaching 2 washers. The axle replaces the 30mm bolt.
To reduce the size of the counterweights, the supporting legs are made 2 m long. With a washer turning radius of 200 mm and a distance of 2 m to the counterweight of 100 kg, a load of 1 t will act on the bolt. This is taken into account when calculating the tool design. Perform stability calculations.
Accept the design single system on one support. It is the smallest distance from the axis of rotation. The system is affected by: the weight of the load, counterweight and crane. The lifting drum is created from a pipe with a cross section of 100 mm. It should not be installed close to the blocks. It is fixed closer to the washers.
Blocks are made of 3 washers. They must be wrapped around with a cord, the diameter of the blocks must be large so that the ropes do not fly out of the washers. Blocks are fixed without bearings.
A flexible cable with a cross section of 5 mm is needed. Its working load is 150 kg, and its breaking load is 850 kg. The chain hoist operates on the principle of a lever. For a chain hoist, the main indicator is its multiplicity (the ratio of all branches of the cable to those extending from the drum).
If the cord has 6 parts, then the pulling force on the drum will be 6 times less than the weight of the load. If a rope is made to lift 100 kg of load, then folded 6 times, it will lift a load of 600 kg. When all systems are ready, you need to assemble them, according to the drawn up design scheme, taking into account all the dimensions and rules for attaching components and parts. After assembly, it is necessary to lubricate all structural systems and its individual parts with Lysol.
Following all the above instructions, you can independently make a crane for building a house and any utility rooms used on the farm. Before starting operation, it is necessary to check the operability of all components of the created crane design. Then carry out a verification test of the equipment for the possibility of lifting and moving loads.
Any of the users of the site will agree with the statement that one of the most necessary during construction is a crane. The steel hero becomes indispensable assistant when there is a need to lift a large load.
The lifting mechanism is usually associated with a huge structure tens of meters high. However, in private housing construction, when compact mechanisms for construction come to the fore, one needs an option with an arrow length not exceeding 5-7 meters.
But renting it is not a cheap pleasure, especially if the construction stretches for more than one month.
In this case, there is only one way out - roll up your sleeves and build a homemade mini-crane with your own hands. And our members of the forum will help you with this!
How to make a homemade faucet
Saving on your own health and trying manually to lift an unbearable load, especially if the construction of the house is carried out independently and without the involvement of hired labor, they are not brought to good. We have already told our readers. Now we are making a crane with our own hands to build a house called " mini pioneer.
"Pioneer" is a mobile collapsible structure, with the help of which the load is lifted to a predetermined height. So homemade the crane can be used when digging foundations and construction and installation work on the construction of houses.
The basis of the mechanism is a supporting running frame installed permanently or on a mobile chassis. The rotating part of the crane is mounted on the frame. The boom can be rotated manually or electrically. The design of the crane itself is made according to the modular principle and can be disassembled into several parts for the convenience of moving the mechanism from one construction site to another.
The stability of the structure is ensured by the counterweight and steel cable braces (turnbuckles), and the load is lifted using a winch and a block.
The experience of our forum member, who decided to independently build a mini Pioneer, is interesting. He needed this construction mechanism for the construction of a private house from a bar.
Voldemort:
- I am almost alone building a house from a six-meter beam. It is impossible to lift and carry it alone. That is why I decided to assemble a mechanism in order to take the timber from the stack, put it in the sawing place and lift it to the plinth.
As the height of the building increases, our forum member plans to put a crane on the floor beams of the house.
The forum member assembled the frame from a corner of 63x63x5 mm. An arrow 5 meters long was made from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. To strengthen the structure, two corners 30x30x3 mm were used. Also in the plans voldemora includes a further lengthening of the boom by another 2 meters.
Voldemort:
- The load capacity of the mechanism is approximately 150 kg, but the design can lift more weight, and in order to achieve this, it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of chain hoists.
Translated from Greek, Polyspaston means "stretched with several ropes." A chain hoist is a construction device for lifting a load. It consists of several blocks interconnected by a rope or cable, which goes around the blocks in a circle. The chain hoist allows you to lift the load with less effort than the weight of the load.
The simplest chain hoist allows you to get a three-four-fold gain in strength, you should not forget that friction losses are inevitable in this system. Even in best models blocks they reach 10%. And the more you win in strength, the more the distance that the technique can move the load decreases.
Voldemort:
- It took me a week to make all the components and mechanisms. I spent two more days on assembling and fine-tuning the mechanism. The slewing drive and the boom lifting drive are a six-fold manual chain hoist. The lifting drive is also a manual double chain hoist.
Voldemort notes that it would be much more convenient to control the mechanism with electric drives - to lift the load from the remote control on a long cord, as is done in industrial models. But in this case, the complexity of manufacturing all the mechanisms increases significantly, which will lead to an increase in the cost of the structure and an increase in the time to manufacture the crane.
The manufacturing details of the device are interesting.
Voldemort:
- As a turntable, I took two faceplates that I found at work. In principle, I assembled the mechanism from what was at hand. Instead of an axle, I welded a 30 mm bolt. I did not take a bolt made of high-strength steel, because such welds are worse, they do not stretch and do not bend, but immediately burst if their tensile strength is exceeded.
All components of the device are lubricated with lithol.
To reduce the weight of the counterweight, the legs are 2 meters long. At self-manufacturing and the calculation of the nodes of such a device, one point should be taken into account. The fact is that with a radius of the rotary faceplate of 200 mm and a distance of 2 meters to a counterweight of 100 kg, a tensile load of 1 ton acts on the central bolt. And this is without taking into account the weight of the boom and the load being lifted!
It is also important to check the device for stability.
Voldemort:
- To begin with, let's imagine that our crane is a single beam that rests on one support, and this support should be the smallest distance from the axis of rotation. Three forces act on the beam: the weight of the load, the weight of the counterweight, and the mass of the mechanism. In order not to take into account the mass of the boom, I underestimated the weight of the crane by 50 kg. The calculation is approximate and simple, but better with it than without it at all.
Boom lift drum Voldemort made from a tube with a diameter of 100 mm.
Voldemort:
– There is a nuance here - the drum cannot be placed close to the blocks. It needs to be slightly shifted along the axis towards the first block so that the second layer of the cable is wound evenly.
The forum member made blocks from three washers: two large and one small. All blocks are without bearings. It is important to ensure that the blocks are well wrapped around the rope. That is, either the rope must be flexible, or the pulleys must be large diameter. Otherwise, when the boom is raised without load, the cables may fly out of the blocks.
Voldemort:
- I have a rope with a diameter of 12 mm, but it is very thick - there was simply no other. If I lengthen the boom, I will put a more flexible cable with a diameter of 5 mm, because. its working load is 150 kg, and tearing - 850 kg.
When designing block systems, it is important to understand how the chain hoist works and is calculated. Let's take a mini-pioneer as an example.
Voldemort:
- The principle of operation of a chain hoist is similar to the operation of a gearbox - you gain in strength, but lose in the length of the rope and, consequently, the speed of lifting the load.
In the gearbox main characteristic- this is the gear ratio, and in the chain hoist - the multiplicity, i.e. the ratio of all branches of the cable to those escaping from the drum. If we have 6 pieces of rope, then the chain hoist is six-fold.
This means that the pulling load on the drum will be 6 times less than the weight of the load, and the rope itself, if it is designed for 100 kg, then folded 6 times, will lift 600 kg.
Do-it-yourself mini-cranes
The design turned out to be so successful that many of our users decided to repeat it and even give the crane mobility by putting it on the Gazelle.
Forum member with a nickname plumage offers with the help of a similar mechanism of greater carrying capacity and equipped with electric drives, to put concrete pillars. And in order to be able to transport such an individual crane on the roads common use, make the structure collapsible and partially and completely mount it in the body already at the place of the intended work. This will make it possible to recoup all costs associated with the manufacture of the device in a short time.
On FORUMHOUSE you can learn everything about independent, as well as get acquainted with the mini-pioneer. The portal discusses everything you need to know to make a faucet From a concrete mixer to a pipe bender. Members of the forum topics about making useful household items that will help you build.
Our video will tell you what tools you need to equip a carpentry workshop. See how to make your own A in this tool, which will simplify the work on your site near the country house.
To make some parts of the toy, you will need templates that you will find at the end of this article. Make copies of these templates and use spray adhesive to attach them to the blanks, saw and sand along the contour lines, and then drill holes in the indicated places. Remove the paper templates by moistening them with mineral spirits and finish sanding the details. sandpaper № 220.
Start with a massive truck crane chassis
1. Saw out a 25x160x575 mm blank from a walnut board for the lower landing gear (A). Saw off a 19 mm wide strip from each edge of the workpiece, mark for proper orientation later, and set aside. Cut out the chassis top B, deck C, outriggers and K uprights (Figures 1 and 3, BOM). Temporarily leave these details aside.
2. Install a 6 mm thick slotted blade in the saw and set its overhang to 16 mm. In several passes, cut out grooves 38 mm wide across the lower landing gear A (Fig. 2). Then raise the disk to a height of 19 mm and make a couple more grooves 6 mm wide inside each wide groove (photo A).
3. Prepare a 3x6x305 mm strip for the stops F. File the stops specified length(photo B) and glue them into the narrow grooves of the bottom part of the chassis A (photo C).
4. Make a counterbore 25x13 mm with an 8 mm hole on the bottom landing gear A from below, and then five axial holes with a diameter of 9 mm on each edge (Fig. 2). Please note: the centers of the axial holes are not located in the middle of the thickness of the lower part.
5. Take the previously sawn off strips. From the front end of each of them, saw off a block LONG 64 mm. Glue these blocks back to bottom part A, lining up with the front torn. When the glue dries, make cuts on the front end imitating a lattice (Fig. 2). Then cut out the cutouts on the front corners, as shown in photo D.
6. Mark and sand down the 3 mm bevel on the bottom of chassis A (fig. 2). Then, with a 10 mm drill, make holes in front and behind that imitate headlights and marker lights (Fig. 1 and 2), equally located at each end.
7. Take the retractable supports D cut earlier. Drill holes in the indicated places and make a cut in the center with a band saw (Fig. 3). Glue pieces of a 6 mm dowel 10 mm long into the blind holes, which should protrude no more than 3 mm above the surface.
8. Insert the outriggers into the slots in the bottom of the chassis A so that the dowels fit into the narrow slots. Lay on top, without gluing, the upper part of the chassis B and fix the assembly with clamps. Make sure the outriggers move easily and smoothly. If necessary, sand them further.
Note. The supports should not be inserted tightly so as not to get stuck when the humidity changes. Once you've finished fitting, glue both landing gears together (photo E). Once the glue is dry, finish sanding the chassis with #220 sandpaper.
9. Take the sawn-out E-pillars and cut 3mm chamfers around the top ends (fig. 3). Drill a 10mm hole in the center and glue in a 57mm piece of maple dowel. Set the racks aside to dry.
Moving on to the cockpit and engine compartment
1. Glue the G-cabin block and saw to the dimensions shown in the Materials List. Glue a paper copy of the cabin template to one edge and cut out the part along the contour. Drill holes on both sides where indicated. Note. No need to do through hole.
Make chamfers on all the edges of the cab, except for the bottom ones.
2. Glue the cabin G to the bottom of the chassis A, aligning it in the middle of the width (fig. 4). Then take deck C and glue it to the top of chassis B (photo F). When the glue is dry, turn the A-D/F/G assembly over and through the hole in the bottom of the chassis, drill an 8mm through hole in the top fly and deck (fig. 1).
3 Cut out the workpiece for the engine compartment H. File and grind the bevel (Fig. 4a), cut the chamfers and make cuts imitating the lattice. Finish sanding the part and glue it to deck C close to cab G.
4. For steps I, take a maple blank measuring 16x54x305 mm. Saw out tongues in it with a section of 6 × 5 mm with 6 mm gaps (Fig. 4b). Saw off two parts with a length of 25 mm from the workpiece. Temporarily attach the wheels to the chassis with wooden axles. Glue the steps to both parts of the chassis A, B close to the flooring C, aligning in the middle between the two rear pairs of wheels.
5. For the manufacture of the boom support J, take a workpiece measuring 13x102x65 mm (Fig. 4c). Cut a groove 52 mm wide with a 6 mm indent from one of the ends. Now make a rip cut to separate the arrow support of the specified dimensions from the workpiece. Glue the part to the engine compartment H (fig. 4).
Make a turntable
1. After sawing platform K (Fig. 4d), file and grind the rounding along the radius at the rear end; drill holes in the indicated places, insert M8 * 75 bolts with a washer into them and fix with epoxy glue.
2. Having attached copies of the corresponding templates to the blanks, saw out the counterweight L, the top plate M and the crane cab N in shape.
3. Glue cabin N to the front corner of platform K (fig. 4). Then glue the counterweight L to the platform (photo G). Once the adhesive has set, glue the top plate M to the counterweight, centering on the edges and flush with the counterweight cutout.
Make an arrow cylinder
1. From a 10x19x305 mm maple blank, saw off eight O-rings and shape them according to the template. Drill a 5mm hole in each lug and set these parts aside.
2. To make the P cylinder, take a 16x19x203mm maple blank. Brief advice! Have several blanks of the same size on hand to check the settings of the router table and saw machine. Install in milling table 6 mm semi-circular cutter so that it protrudes 3 mm above the table surface. Adjust the rip fence to align the cutter in the middle of the narrow edge of the workpiece, and cut the flute on opposite edges (photo H). Saw the workpiece lengthwise into two halves and glue again so that the grooves facing each other form a cylindrical channel (photo I).
3 When the glue is dry, mill rounds on all four edges of the cylinder blank (photo J). Saw off the ends of the workpiece to give the I* cylinder a final length of 152mm.
4 In the same way as you did the eyelets O, make two parts of the hinge Q for the ends of the cylinder in accordance with the template. Drill a 5mm hole in the indicated location, and also drill a 6mm hole in the center of the end face of each piece. Prepare pieces of a 6 mm dowel 13 and 152 mm long and glue them into the holes at the ends of the parts (Fig. 5).
5. Saw out the base of the R boom to the specified dimensions and finish sanding. Prepare two lengths of MS threaded stud, 41 mm LONG, place each cylinder hinge Q between two lugs O and fasten with a threaded stud by adding a pair of cap nuts (fig. 5). Glue the short dowel O/Q assembly to the base of the arrow.
6. In accordance with the template, cut out the sidewalls S in shape and drill holes in the indicated places. Glue the sides to the edges of the base R and check for squareness (fig. 7).
7. When the glue is dry, glue the assembled base O/Q/R/S to the turntable K, positioning the counterweight L in the cutout.
Crane needs an arrow
1. Cut out the side T, V, X and upper/lower U, W, Y planks of the boom sections. Drill 25 and 19 mm holes in the side rails of the lower and middle sections and chamfer their edges (Fig. 6), and drill 10 mm holes in the side rails of the upper section. Make a counterbore 10x3 mm on inside only one side bar for the bottom section and one for the middle section (fig. 6). Then drill a hole with a diameter of 5 mm in the center of the counterbores. Glue an M5 nut into each counterbore with epoxy glue. Brief advice! Using the tip of a toothpick or thin nail, carefully apply the epoxy around the perimeter of the zebok and make sure it doesn't get into the threads of the nut and the center hole.
2. Cut out the end cap Z, leaving both ends square for now, and the same spacer. Assemble the lower section of the boom (photos K, L). Cut spacers to assemble the middle and top sections, but do not glue them. Drill a 6mm hole in the lower T/U/Z section (fig. 6).
3. Once thoroughly dry, test the boom assembly by inserting the X/Y section into the V/W and the V/W into the T/U/Z. Each of them should slide out easily without getting stuck. If required, further sand or file the surfaces and then finish sanding the boom sections.
4. Take the hinge of the cylinder with the mine dowel and glue it to the lower section of the arrow T / U / Z (photo M). band saw file the rounding at the bottom end of the bottom section and the top end of the top X/Y section (fig. 6). Using a saw, make a 6 mm deep cut in the middle of the upper end of the upper section for the cord (Fig. 7). Glue the four remaining eyelets O in place, aligning them to the middle of the width of each boom section.
5. Insert the closed lower end of the lower section O/T/U/Z between the sides of the base S and slide the long dowel into the channel of the cylinder P. Fix the lower section with an M6 * 75 bolt and a self-locking nut (Fig. 7).
6. From a 16 mm wooden dowel, saw off three pieces 10 mm long. Drill a 6 mm hole 5 mm deep in one of them, glue the dowel 86 mm long and set aside for the subsequent assembly of the gate lifting mechanism. From the two remaining segments, make handwheels by drilling a 5 mm hole 6 mm deep in the center of each and gluing a 16 mm long section of the M5 threaded stud with epoxy glue (Fig. 7a). Once the adhesive has hardened, thread these studs into the nuts attached to the lower and middle sections of the boom. 11After final assembly, these handwheels can be used to lock the middle and upper boom sections O/V/W, O/X/Y in position.
Assemble the lifting mechanism
1. Cut out the AA crank according to the template and sand it. Drill blind holes on opposite sides of the part. Glue a dowel 35 mm long into one of the holes (Fig. 7).
2. To assemble the lifting mechanism, take the gate handwheel made in step 6 of the previous section and insert it into the hole in the side frame S (Fig. 7). Place the 10mm spring, the 30x22mm wood spool and the second spring before threading the dowel through the hole on the opposite side. Glue the AA crank to the end of the dowel.
Brief advice! If the coil turns around the dowel, secure it with a small screw or stud.
3. Use spray adhesive to attach a copy of the block template to a 13 mm thick walnut blank, cut along the contour and drill holes in the center of each end, as indicated on the template. Screw a screw with a ring into the upper hole (Fig. 7). Taking a finishing nail, grind off a sharp tip with an emery stone, bend the nail in the form of a hook. Glue it with epoxy glue to the bottom hole of the BB block.
4. Remove all fasteners except those glued with epoxy, separate the boom sections, sand any areas that need it, and apply a finish coat to all wooden details including wheels. (We applied semi-gloss nitro varnish from an aerosol can three times.)
Note. Tape the ends of the wooden axles with masking tape to keep the surfaces clean for gluing.
After each application, extend and retract the dowel, which acts as a piston in the cylinder, and the sliding supports D several times, so that the parts do not stick.
5. Reassemble the faucet, adding a drop of blue sealant to each cap nut to secure threaded connections. Fix the dowels of the racks E in the holes of the retractable supports D with threaded stud pieces with cap nuts (Fig. 3). After adding a plastic washer between turntable K and deck C, secure the turntable assembly with a self-locking nut and washer (fig. 4). Tighten the nut so that the platform does not rock but can rotate freely.
6. Tie the end of the 10' cord to the spool and thread the loose end through all of the lugs O and cut through the top end of the 0/X/Y upper section of the boom.
Tie the cord to the upper ring of the BB block and wind it around the spool. Drive a screw with a ring into the lower cut of the grate on the lower part of the chassis A and catch the hook on it when the crane is not lifting loads. Place a wheel and washer on each axle, then apply a dab of glue and insert the axles into the holes on the bottom of the chassis.
7. When the glue is dry, put on a hard hat, secure the outrigger legs and extend the boom. Ahead of a difficult job with heavy loads.
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