How to properly assemble a panel house. Build or order ready-made panel houses? Preparation for construction

Most summer residents live outside the city only in summer time and don't need expensive capital houses. They want to have a roof over their heads and enough living space to accommodate family members. For these purposes, country panel houses of an economy class are optimally suited.

Advantages of country frame-panel houses

Panel houses are popular due to the following advantages:

• High construction rates - 2 - 6 weeks
• Low cost - 3 - 8 thousand rubles / sq. m against 18 thousand rubles / sq. m. m for houses with brick walls
• Low weight, which allows the use of cheap shallow foundations
• Frost heave resistance
• Ability to manufacture parts in the factory, which improves the quality of construction and simplifies assembly
• No shrinkage
• Large selection of architectural solutions
• The possibility of warming and adapting the house for year-round use

Shield house construction

The house consists of a wooden or metal frame, sheathed with shields. Metal carcass made of pipes of rectangular section, wooden - from a bar. For exterior cladding, use:

• Lining
• Decking
• Moisture resistant plywood
• Asbestos cement sheets
• Siding

The inner lining can be made of less moisture resistant materials. If the house is supposed to live all year round, insulation is laid in the walls.

Siding is one of the most popular home cladding materials. The right one will help protect the walls of the house from external influences. When mounting, be sure to take into account possible changes in dimensions due to thermal expansion and contraction.

Before installing the siding, you need to insulate the walls. We have considered insulation for siding. The article contains information about the types of insulation, as well as the installation process.

Construction of panel houses

Construction companies offer services for the construction of turnkey panel houses or a set of parts for self construction. The first option frees the developer from most of the problems, the second one allows you to build a panel house for a summer residence with your own hands and save money.

Project selection

A quality project is the basis for success in building a house. Serious companies engaged in the production of panel house kits and turnkey construction offer several dozens of standard projects and offer custom design services.

Individual projects are quite expensive, so they are rarely used for economy class houses. Construction by standard project allows you to save on design, and a wide range of ready-made architectural solutions - to choose the design and layout of the house to your liking.

Foundations

Under light panel houses, shallow-depth columnar and strip foundations and screw piles are used.

• Shallow-depth columnar foundations reduce costs and reduce construction time. The columns are installed in increments of 1.5 - 3 meters under the outer walls and piers, at the corners of the building and at the junction points internal walls with outside. They are made from logs, concrete, red brick, betonite and foundation blocks. The laying depth is up to 40 cm, the cross section must exceed the thickness of the walls. To increase stability, the poles are connected with wooden or reinforced concrete beams.

• Pillar foundations do not allow to equip a warm basement. If its construction is provided for by the project, a shallow-depth strip foundation, and under the internal - columnar. The depth and width of the tape is the same as that of the columnar foundation. The strip foundation is made of concrete, rubble stone or foundation blocks

• On weak soils, foundations on screw piles are used. Their use allows you to rest the house on solid ground, located deep from the surface. The foundation on screw piles can be built in 1 - 2 days without the involvement of heavy equipment

frame

Shield frame country house can be built from a prefabricated kit or from purchased materials, in-house or by a contractor. Turnkey construction of a house removes most of the problems from the developer, except for monitoring the work of the contractor - it becomes impossible to check the quality of the assembly of the frame after it has been sheathed.

At self-assembly frame from factory-made parts, you must follow the instructions and assembly diagram attached to the kit. The work resembles the assembly of a designer and is quite within the power of a developer with experience in construction.

The cheapest, but most troublesome option is to build from lumber on your own. Depending on the size and number of storeys of the house, the frame is constructed from a bar 100x100 - 150x150 mm or a cut board 50 mm thick.

The frame is mounted in the following sequence:

1. Roofing material waterproofing is laid on top of the foundation
2. To the foundation with the help of embedded parts or anchor bolts, the base of the frame (lower trim) is attached - a beam laid around the perimeter of the house and under the walls
3. Lay the logs and lay the subfloor. Logs rest on the edges of the foundation or strapping beams
4. The vertical racks of the frame are installed - first at the corners, then along the walls after 0.6 m. The racks are installed in the grooves sawn in the bottom trim, fastened with building brackets and nails and fixed first with temporary, then permanent jibs. At the same time, their verticality and location in the same plane are constantly monitored. Corner posts are made of timber, for intermediate posts you can use edged board same width 50 mm thick
5. On top of the racks perform the upper strapping. Framing door and window openings

All wooden structures must be impregnated with antiseptic compounds.

Usually they live in country houses in the summer. But what if you want to live in such a house in winter? must be properly insulated inside and out.

Regardless of the season of residence, hardly any country house will do without the grill. Read about building a gazebo with a barbecue with your own hands. Conversation is not only a great place for family pastime, but also a great element landscape design. Another element of landscape design can be a polycarbonate canopy. In reviewed step by step installation do-it-yourself polycarbonate

Covering and roofing

Wooden floor beams are laid on the upper trim of the frame and fastened with building brackets. With a span width of 3 - 4 meters, a board of 50x150 mm is used, with larger span - timber 100x150 - 150x150 mm. The step of laying the beams is 0.6 m. In this case, shields (modules) 1.8 m wide are used to cover the ceiling.

Rafter trusses are made on the ground according to a template from a board 50x120 - 50x150 m. First, the extreme rafters are installed, then the intermediate ones, controlling the location of the rafter boards in the same plane. Next, they make the crate and lay the roof. Roofing materials for a panel house should be light, such as:

• bituminous tiles
• metal tile
• Decking
• bituminous slate

wall cladding

The width of the shields should be equal to the installation step of the frame racks, and the length should be equal to the height of the walls. Shields are made according to the template on the workbench in the following order:

1. From the boards collect the frame
2. A vapor barrier film is laid over the frame.
3. Carry out the inner lining of the frame
4. The frame is turned over, a heater is inserted inside
5. Close the insulation with a windproof membrane
6. Carry out exterior cladding

The sheathing should extend beyond the frame by half the width of the frame bars to hide them. The frame of the shield around the perimeter is upholstered with insulation and tightly inserted between the racks of the frame. Fastening is carried out with nails. Using sheet materials can do without a frame. Panels cut to size are attached directly to the frame, and the insulation is inserted between the uprights.

As can be seen from the description, the construction of a dacha panel house is within the power of a team of two or three people of average qualification. Using factory modules greatly speeds up assembly. Just a few weeks after the start of the assembly of the frame, you can move into a country house and enjoy outdoor recreation.

Video about country panel houses

Simple country house

How to insulate a panel house with your own hands before sheathing with siding

A frame-panel house is chosen due to its relative cheapness, speed of construction and the possibility of settling immediately after construction. After all, wall decoration is not required, it is enough to connect communications and you can start living. At the same time, to build a house from SIP panels, special equipment is not needed. You can manage on your own.

The frame house is also assembled on site from prefabricated elements. All the necessary building materials are delivered to the construction site, it is enough to assemble them like a designer.

But, in order to further reduce the cost of building such a house, frame-panel elements can be made independently. Of course, this will require excellent building skills, because the slightest error in measurements can lead to the distortion of the entire building.

The correct arrangement of the foundation is the key to the reliability of the entire building

Where does the construction of a house begin? Of course, from the foundation device! But how to choose the best foundation for your home, so that the reliability of the building does not suffer, and not overpay?

Types of foundations - their advantages and disadvantages

So, there are only three options for foundations, all the rest are their variations:

• tape;
• columnar;
• pile or pile-screw.

For heavy buildings, this is the best option, besides, your basement will never be superfluous. But this is also the most expensive option, because you have to take care of proper waterproofing, and the amount of poured concrete is directly proportional to the depth of the foundation.

The columnar foundation is the most economical and easiest to do with your own hands. Even a novice builder will cope with it without the use of complex and expensive equipment. Shallow foundations are suitable for non-rocky and weakly rocky soils and light buildings.

Otherwise, the depth of the foundation must also be below the level of soil freezing.

The foundation on piles is a universal option. A flat area is not needed - the piles themselves are set according to the level. The house can even be placed on a slope, which significantly reduces construction costs. But for driving or screwing piles, you will have to use special equipment.

The device of the columnar foundation - how not to make unforgivable mistakes

So, the choice fell on the simplest and most economical version of the foundation - columnar. But here it is important not to sell too cheap, otherwise it will be very difficult to correct mistakes in the future. For example, in no case should poles be placed simply on a concrete platform!

In just a season, such a “foundation” will unevenly go into the ground, warping the entire house.

Foundation steps:

Even larch timber in such conditions will begin to rot. Without fail, roofing material is laid under the tree in several layers.

According to SNiPs, the foundation board of the grillage must be fixed to the foundation with anchors with a diameter of 12 mm or more. To do this, the anchors are first embedded in the poles, and holes are drilled in the boards. desired diameter. So that the wooden grillage does not rot, the anchor bolts are treated with bitumen along with the foundation pillars.

Laying and warming the floor - what you need to know

The lower harness is mounted on the grillage. The floor logs are laid on the support bars and can be cut into the strapping beam or attached to it metal corners With inside.

Without a basement, special attention should be paid to floor insulation, otherwise blown out from the underground cold air will significantly worsen living conditions. And in order for the insulation to serve for a long time, it must be well isolated from moisture.

How not to confuse waterproofing with vapor barrier and what it will lead to

The waterproofing film is water- and vapour-tight on both sides. That is why it is believed that it should be on the outside and protect the insulation from the effects of the external environment. But in this case, excess moisture will condense in the insulation, worsening its properties. The optimal way out is a vapor-permeable wind insulation that does not let moisture through from the outside, but evaporates it from the inside.

The vapor barrier also protects the insulation from the ingress of vapors generated inside the building. It should be laid on the inside close to the insulation. But in the case of the floor, everything is not so simple, because the water will not evaporate down, settling just on the vapor barrier laid on the insulation.

That is why the vapor barrier is laid on the floor over the insulation with a mandatory ventilation gap between the insulation and the floor boards, which allows moisture to evaporate.

The choice of insulation and laying technology

But how to choose a heater? Of course, the main criterion will always be the price and availability in a particular region. If the choice is quite diverse, you can compare the advantages and disadvantages of the most popular of them:

• sawdust - a natural and often cheap insulation, but requiring antiseptic treatment and caking over time;
• expanded clay is a natural and in some areas cheap insulation, but heavy and hygroscopic;
• vermiculite is a natural heat-intensive material that does not retain moisture, but is still quite heavy;
• ecowool - consists of recycled materials, does not contain harmful additives, but also cakes over time;
• mineral heaters are hygroscopic, which requires heightened attention to waterproofing, but easy to install;
• Styrofoam is non-hygroscopic and very light material, but practically airtight, which does not allow you to create a "breathing" atmosphere in the house.

Mounting the walls of a frame-panel house without special equipment

The main thing is to guess with the weather and not start building during the rainy season.

DIY shield assembly

A frame house can be built in two ways - to sheathe and insulate an already finished frame, or to first assemble individual elements and only then install them. The first method is suitable for small buildings - verandas, enclosed gazebos and outbuildings. If large-scale construction is envisaged, it is much easier to assemble a house from pre-prepared walls.

For this you need:

Installing walls on the bottom trim

Finished frames are lifted and screwed to the beams of the bottom trim. First, two opposite walls are installed, then the remaining ones. You can manage on your own, the main thing is to attract more helpers.

After that, you can begin to assemble the internal partitions.

For clarity, the video shows the assembly of the walls of a frame house and their installation in turn:

Panel house roof

It is important not to forget that the beams of the upper trim must overlap the junctions and junction corners - otherwise, the entire structure may loosen in the future. And already on the upper harness, you can install a truss system and lay a roofing.

The choice of roofing material

For a frame house, you should choose lightweight materials - this will allow you not to strengthen the frame of the walls and the foundation, which will significantly reduce the cost of construction. So, frame-panel houses look great with:

• metal tile;
• seam roof;
• corrugated board;
• bituminous tiles;
• euroslate.

Metal tiles and corrugated board are quite easy to install, but quite noisy in the rain. And if in the house, thanks to a good layer of insulation, this is almost imperceptible, then being, for example, in an adjoining gazebo during a summer shower is not very comfortable. Seam roofing is one of the most reliable, but rather difficult to install.

And since it is also assembled from metal elements, its disadvantages are the same as those of the previous options.

Bituminous tiles, also called soft, look very attractive, but require a continuous crate. Even a non-specialist can handle the installation, but this work is quite painstaking.

But euroslate can be an excellent option for the roof of a frame house. It is lightweight and durable, stacked in sheets, does not require special skills during installation and can be mounted on a sparse crate.

Installation of a gable roof truss system

There are two options for collecting truss supports - directly on the wall, if the interfloor ceiling is ready, or on the ground and then lifting them up. Last option useful if there is no interfloor overlap yet.

What you need to know when installing truss system:

It is necessary to insulate the roof only in the case of a residential building there. Otherwise, it will be good enough to insulate the attic floor. But if the attic is planned to be residential, the floor is not insulated.

It is possible to lay insulation in the under-roof space from the outside, if the roofing has not yet been laid, or from the inside. The first option is somewhat simpler - the insulation does not need to be raised above you. But balancing on the roof is quite difficult, so the choice here is exclusively individual.

With insufficient ventilation under the roofing, the condensate will not evaporate, but will begin to settle and, as a result, the roof elements will collapse. Therefore, it is mandatory to leave a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roof. The waterproofing itself also does not always fit close to the insulation - here you need to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. From the inside, the insulation protects the vapor barrier layer.

It is necessary not to forget to glue the joints and puncture points of the insulating film with a special butyl rubber tape. It provides the necessary tightness, which significantly extends the life of the insulation.

Thus, building a frame-panel house with your own hands is a difficult job, but it is quite within the power of a confident builder. If the necessary skills are not yet available, it is better to try your hand at building a smaller scale. For example, a gazebo or garage would be a great start!

Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:

It is worth noting that each stage of the construction of a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe everything possible options foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically. frame house.

Step number 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house

Preparatory work for the construction of any house are the same and include:

1. Site preparation
2. House layout

Site preparation

First you need to clear the site of vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the markup and make it more accurate.

If the construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled on the horizon using special equipment.

Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will greatly facilitate your work, and measurements in the grass can be with a large error.

House layout

Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depend on it. With inaccurate markup, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next steps.

Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes a preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking all internal walls.

If you want to know how to properly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all walls and corners are even and in line with the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, I had to take it out separately.

Step number 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house

The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities.

It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and which one to choose is up to you.

Here I will briefly talk about suitable foundations for a frame house, and about the cases in which each of them is used, as well as give links to their detailed description.

The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw. It is practically the simplest and cheap option for such a house, especially since it is not difficult to install a pile-screw foundation with your own hands.

Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except for rocky ones. Particularly well suited for swampy soils, where compact soils are deep and other types are very expensive.

In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.

Shallow strip foundation

Shallow strip foundation, also used for construction quite often. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.

Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires precise adherence to the laying technology.

As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is categorically contraindicated on soil with a very high level ground water and swampy soils.

Slab foundation for a frame house

Recently, a slab foundation is gaining more and more popularity for the construction of a frame house with their own hands. Despite its low cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not be spent on it separately.

Often, instead of a classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Step number 3: Do-it-yourself frame house flooring

The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires.

In this step by step instructions we will consider in detail only a wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything in one article.

Concrete floor installation

It is worth noting that the concrete floor in the frame house is arranged, in cases slab foundation, or tape. Everything is clear with the slab - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.

But if the foundation is strip - the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.

Wooden floor installation

Let's look at the device of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For a tape, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, it can be from a thinner beam. But first things first.

Tying the foundation of a frame house

The device of a wooden floor begins with the binding of the foundation. As a rule, the strapping is made of timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the beam must be to avoid sagging.

The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, and secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.

In order to easily carry out the strapping process with your own hands, we divide it into several stages:

1. The beam is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and diagonals are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, do not forget about the waterproofing, which we put under the harness in the form of roofing material.
   
2. The next step is to outline the points of joining the timber, they should be located on the pile, as these will be the weakest points that should not “hang”. This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the length of the purchased beams.
   
3. The beam is joined with an overlap of 20-30 cm, as shown in the photo. To do this, the so-called "locks" are cut out from the end.
   
4. The corners are joined in almost exactly the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
   
5. The beam is attached to the foundation with bolts or studs. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For ease of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs - must be deepened. The joints are additionally punched with nails of 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the beam.
   
6. Once the perimeter is ready, we move on to the final step - tying the foundation under the inner walls of the frame house. This bar, to the already installed outer one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally apply mounting metal corners.
   

When the binding of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next step in our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.

Floor frame in the house

It is worth noting that already at this stage it is desirable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if everything is foreseen in advance, it will be much less problems after.

The next step is to install the lag, on top of the harness. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use a beam measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a board 50x200mm or 50x150mm, stitching them in two.

If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board with a size of 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.

Installing a log is a simple step in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that need to be provided for in this manual:

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house

It is worth noting that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, should be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while eliminating the ingress of moisture into the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself fits tightly, without cracks.

So we reviewed the instructions for arranging the floor of a frame house, now it's time to start on the walls.

Step number 4: Arranging the walls of a frame house

The next step of our instructions will install the walls with your own hands. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners, some fastenings can be made with studs.

It should be noted that almost the entire frame is assembled from a board measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required thickness of the insulation.

Some people think that it would be better to install a beam at the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and why - a little later, during the installation process, I will tell you about everything.

So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.

For a better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for arranging the walls of a frame house into several stages:

1. Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
2. Installation and fastening of walls vertically in place

Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors

We will assemble the walls on the finished floor of the frame house, this is the most convenient option. But it must be taken into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions are accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already arranged floor.

To understand what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house and then I'll talk about everything in order.

Now we will analyze step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with our own hands:

1. First of all, we need to decide on the height of the ceiling in the house. Let's say that the height of the draft ceiling will be 280cm. So the vertical bars frame walls should be 280-15=265cm. The diagram shows where 15 cm came from.
   
2. The distance between the uprights, as a rule, is chosen based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is 2 cm less for closer contact.
   
3. The top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical posts will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with nails 120-150mm. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
   
4. It is worth noting that each wall will be less than the thickness of the wall than the length of the floor. This is clearly visible on the diagram.
   
5. If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the whole assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
   
6. As a rule, jumpers are mounted between the racks to stiffen the entire structure. There are no strict rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they break through one or two for one gap between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo, in the case when they break through one at a time - they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, jumpers are made with the expectation that they will serve as a joint for plywood or osb-boards, depending on further work.
   
7. Window and door openings in the wall of the frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
   
8. This is what it looks like in real life.
   

The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board in the calculations, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.

Putting the walls in place

It is worth noting that when assembling the walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise, the corners will be even, but the walls will not.

Upper harness and structural reinforcement

So, the wall frame is assembled, now it is necessary to make the upper trim from the same board as the walls.

The upper trim is necessary, first of all, for a stronger adhesion of the corners, and also gives unity to all parts of the frame walls and distributes the load between them.

To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150 mm nails over the walls, around the entire perimeter, including internal bearings, so that all joints are blocked with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for corners where the overlap will be equal to the wall thickness.

The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement with plywood or OSB-plate.

As a rule, having broken one side around the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB-plate, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.

Internal partitions of a frame house

The device of internal partitions is almost no different from the device external walls, except that they have softer requirements in terms of thickness and insulation.

1. Internal partitions, unlike external walls, can be made thinner. Everything will depend on preferences and comfort for soundproofing.
2. The insulation, inside the partitions, will serve, first of all, as a sound-absorbing material, rather than as thermal insulation.
3. It is allowed to insulate internal partitions without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

These are all the main differences between the internal walls and the external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way.

Step #5: Frame House Roof

The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof for other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I will even say more, the installation of a roof for a frame house will be less laborious than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much easier.

It is worth noting that the construction of the roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complicated layout of the house, then you can easily do it yourself.

Building the roof of any house, including a frame house, is a very big topic, where there are many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. And secondly, in order not to confuse you, I, perhaps, will transfer this topic to a separate article.

Step number 6: Warming the frame house

So we got to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - the floor, walls and ceiling.

You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction, here we will discuss only general points.

When choosing a heater for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the heater itself, but also the features of the tree, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.

Here is a small instruction for warming a frame house with your own hands:

1. Outside, over the OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side - should be in the instructions for it.
2. Inside the house, between the racks, insulation is laid, in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid with an overlap on the joint of the previous one in order to avoid cold bridges.
3. Floor insulation works in the same way.
4. It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic, after filling the vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with a board or plywood.
5. After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film on top of it, it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
6. Depending on the needs and further finishing work, sheathing material is stuffed on top of the film on the walls - a board or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, a fine finish is carried out.

As you can see, there is a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction have been described in detail here. do-it-yourself frame house, despite the fact that some points have been moved to separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.

I hope that by following this step-by-step instruction, you will be able to easily and with minimal cost to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home.

Panel houses, distinguished by their lightness, are especially popular today. at a small price and ease of assembly. These inexpensive buildings are best solution for the construction of a country house, a bathhouse and even a residential building. You can build them in one season.

Pros and cons of prefabricated buildings

If you decide to order a frame-panel house, you are probably interested in what are the pros and cons of such construction. Among the advantages are:

• construction speed.
• relatively low cost
• durability
• environmental friendliness
• design variety
• do not need heavy foundations
• built all year round
• can be built on any soil

About how cons frame houses turn into pluses, read.

Frame-panel houses can be built with your own hands, which is very cheap. Having ordered ready-made shields according to your plan, you will only have to assemble the house like a designer. However, panel houses also have disadvantages:

1. No matter how well the wood is processed, it will have a shorter service life when compared with stone, brick or concrete.
2. The slightest non-compliance with technology leads to distortions.
3. Even treated with a fire retardant, wood is more flammable than other materials.

Construction technology

Despite the apparent ease of erecting frame-panel houses, this process requires certain knowledge and skills. Let us consider in detail how to assemble this house on our own, for this we will consider what such construction is like.

Panel construction refers to an improved frame construction. The main elements of these buildings are the frame, shields, roof, floor, exterior and interior decoration.

As for the Canadian technology, the design of the shields (or SIP panels) includes a frame, insulation, vapor barriers, and wind protection. The assembly of such a house resembles a panel connection of walls. The shield walls are OSB boards, between which is the entire filling of the wall.

For better thermal protection, the insulation is attached (under pressure) to the plates so that they protrude slightly around the perimeter beyond the polystyrene foam layer. What are the standard sizes of sandwich panels? Based on the plan of your house, you can choose from 12, 14, 15, 16, 20 cm in thickness, 125 in width. The length of the panels can also be 250, 280 or 300 cm.

Where to begin?

What can be built with prefabricated panels? Yes, almost any building, both simpler and atypical. Typical garden houses are a one-story building with a gable roof and, possibly, an attic. Country houses can be for permanent residence or only seasonal (garden). You can make them yourself or order turnkey.

Any construction, including frame-panel construction, begins with a plan. You can draw the plan yourself, but it is advisable to do this for simple buildings. If you want to have a full-fledged residential building, it is better to order a plan in special organizations. The price of a plan can range from a few hundred rubles to several thousand.

The second stage of preparation is the construction of the foundation. Panel houses need a foundation, but what they are good for is that the foundation can be lightweight. Read more about foundations.

Buying prefabricated panels

After installing the foundation, you can place an order for sip panels. Calculating the right dimensions panels, having agreed on the price, you form your order. Firms involved in the construction of such turnkey houses can help you with the calculations.

A house made of sip panels does not involve the construction of a frame, as in a traditional frame construction. The panels themselves are already both a frame and insulated walls. The role of the frame is performed by rigid frames made of timber. Later it will be possible to make a veranda, porch or any other extension, based on the frame. Sip panels are placed on prepared bases. The base for the house is made of timber. The roof may be various options- single-sided, double-sided, from a variety of materials.

If you want to save money, you can assemble the house yourself after purchasing the panels. Check out the video about assembling such a house, and you will see that everything can be done by hand.

Contacting builders

If you do not want to waste your time and are not too constrained in financial terms, can buy finished house turnkey company. A huge number of companies offer fast and high-quality construction, both private residential buildings, and industrial buildings, garages, retail and storage facilities based on SIP panels using modern frame technologies.

Turning to experts who use modern technologies construction and finishing, using high-quality heat, hydro and sound insulation and fire protection, you will receive a finished building within two to three months. Greater competition has greatly improved the quality standards of such houses. A big plus is that firms have specialists whose practice can be envied.

If you have a dacha, and you want to put a small house on it, for example, 6x8 or 6x6, frame-panel construction suits you perfectly. Country houses can be of any size and shape.

money question

Residential buildings

Before ordering construction, you need to figure out how much this or that house will cost approximately. Naturally, the price of a bathhouse, a garden and country house, and a residential building will vary. The price depends on the size of the house, the complexity of the design and functionality. The most popular buildings are 6x6 and 6x8 in size.

Approximate prices for the most popular buildings:

1. Dimensions of the house: 4 by 6 m

• built-up area: 24 sq.m
• premises area: 37 sq.m
• cost of a panel house: 240,000 rubles

The price of the same frame house: 320,000 rubles.

The foundation is ordered separately, the cost of a monolithic tape is 120,000 rubles. Pile screw foundation will cost 66,000 rubles.

2. Dimensions of the house: 5 by 6 m

• building area: 30 sq.m
• premises area: 48 sq.m

The price of a panel house is: 270,000 rubles

Frame house: cost 350,000 rubles.

3. Dimensions of the house: 6x6 m

• built-up area: 36 sq.m
• premises area: 56 sq.m

Price for a panel house: 290,000 rubles.

Frame house: 385,000 rubles.

4. Dimensions of the house: 6x8 m

• building area: 48 sq.m
• premises area: 65 sq.m

Price for frame house: 420 000 rub

Panel house: cost 340 000 rubles

If the size of the house is more than 100 m2, then the price immediately rises several times. For example, a 2-storey residential building with an area of ​​184 m2 with dimensions of 9.6 × 11.6 m has a cost of 2,278,000 rubles. On average, the price per 1 square meter is 12,378 rubles.

Steam room lovers

What are the prices today for frame-panel baths? Let's look at a few projects. Let's start with the simplest options.

1. Bath for 195,000 rubles.

The most compact model with a length of 4 meters can fit in any area. Area 10 sq. m. Its price is 195,000 rubles. Rooms: steam room, dressing room. Designed for 3 people. Lighting is available in each department - bath glass lamps. There is a socket in the dressing room. All electrics are carried out through a cable channel and connected through automatic machines 16 A - to the light, 16 A - to the outlet. The cable channel and all components are made in the same design and have the color of wood.

2. Bath for 240,000 rubles

A compact sauna model with a terrace and 2 compartments: a dressing room and a steam room. The package includes two-tier aspen shelves, a sauna metal stove "Osa" with a built-in tank for hot water, a chimney from a stove with a spark arrester and fire protection, folding table, 2 chairs. Lighting and electrical standard.

3. Sauna for 370 rubles

Premises: rest room, washing room, steam room. There is also a table and two benches for those who like to take a steam bath. Features a spacious layout. It has an area of ​​17.5 sq. m. Put on a turnkey basis.

The most cheap bath, which I managed to find, cost 99,000 rubles and was on sale. Consider now the most expensive frame-panel baths.

1. The total area of ​​the bath is 127.62 m²

The area of ​​the 1st floor is 79.82 m²

Veranda – 14 m²

Tambour - 1.54 m²

Wardrobe - 1.54 m²

Lounge - 26.1 m²

Steam room – 8.33 m²

Shower room – 7.51 m²

Kitchen - 10.8 m²

Attic area - 47.8 m²

Billiard room - 36.2 m²

Room – 14.9 m²

Balcony - 6.7 m²

Cost: 1,168,400 rubles. Full construction.

2. Spacious and functional sauna with a swimming pool.

On the ground floor: hall, living room, steam room, swimming pool, shower and WC.

On the second floor: lounge (billiard room).

1st floor - 76 m²

2nd floor - 47 m².

Price 1,131,600 rubles. Full construction.

Thus, you can order a large and luxurious frame-panel bath, or you can limit yourself to inexpensive budget option. Read about how to build a bath yourself.

Summer cottages

Summer houses are a great option for those who like to spend the summer months in nature and move to the city in the winter. The cost of country houses can also vary. Consider the cheapest and most expensive options.

Garden houses Chestnut 4x5.5 m have a price of 168,000 rubles. Garden house Sokol 3X5.8 m costs 180,000 rubles. Two-story houses start at a price of 260,000 rubles. Houses with an area of ​​​​48 m2 or more have a price of 350,000 rubles.

What will you get by placing an order for the construction of a turnkey country house?

• foundation (columnar or pile)
• strapping crown
• house frame
• walls
• warming
• finishing floor
• ceiling
• interfloor ceilings
• attic floor
• partitions
• doors
• roof
• stairs

Featured Projects

The most popular summer 2015 projects:

1. Frame-panel house "Gardener 1". Dimensions: 6x6 m2. Area: 61m2. Cost: 350 750 rubles.
2. "Gardener 2". Dimensions: 6x6. Area: 61m2. Price: 350 750 rubles.
3. "Gardener 3". Dimensions: 6x6. Area: 61m2. Cost: 350 750 rubles.
4. "Gardener 6". Dimensions: 6x7.5. Area: 74.15m2. September price: 419,750 rubles.
5. "Cosiness". Dimensions: 4x5. Area: 31.29m2. September price: 276,000 rubles.
6. "Forester". Dimensions: 6x8. Area: 73m2. September price: 447,350 rubles.
7. "Farm". Dimensions: 6*8. Area: 73m2. September price: 447,350 rubles.
8. "Darnitsa". Dimensions: 6x8. Area: 78m2. September price: 431,250 rubles.
9. "Hearth". Dimensions: 6x6. Area: 66m2. September price: 362,250 rubles. August price: 315,000 rubles.

Quite often, among the desires of modern youth, and not only, one of the first points is the construction of their own home. Often the choice falls on. One of the main advantages is that you yourself can choose the place where the building will stand. If you build a frame-panel house with your own hands, then you yourself will be responsible for the quality and know its structure.

Construction of frame-panel houses

Recently, in Europe, and in our country, the most popular type of construction is the construction of frame-panel houses, and with your own hands. How to build with your own hands, the advantages of such construction:

• The shortest construction time - even without experience in construction, it can be built in 1-2 months;
• Purchase building materials significantly saves the budget on its own;
• Quite simple, the frame of a panel house can be built by studying photos and articles on the site;
• You can get by with minimal costs compared to other building materials or the purchase of finished housing;
• Possibility to freeze at almost any stage without prejudice to future construction.

The only negative, if you want to do it yourself, is that if you buy all the building materials yourself, some elements will not fit perfectly. You can buy a ready-made kit for construction from the factory or order a turnkey frame-panel house. But if you have at least a little experience in construction or you hold a hammer with confidence, then this will not be a problem.

Installation of a frame-panel building with a crane.

Consider the construction of a frame-panel house in stages. We already have a project for a frame-panel house and a plot of land for construction. What to do next?

The foundation of a frame-panel building

The choice of what should be the foundation of a frame-panel house depends on many factors:

1. The nature of the soil on which your frame-panel house will stand.
2. Floors of construction.
3. Location - Opportunity strong winds if the area is open, flooding.

Most often, a pile-grillage or tape foundation is chosen. Consider the first option, as more reliable and common in the construction of frame-panel houses.

Pile-grillage foundation

Pile wells are drilled using a manual or motorized drill, asbestos-cement or PVC pipes are selected as formwork required size. You can also choose manually rolled roofing felt pipes. Reinforcement bars are installed inside - from 3 to 4 pieces, fastened together in the form of a square or triangle. The iron bars of the reinforcement must stick out of the piles so that they can be connected to the grillage.

The piles are connected with reinforcement and poured with concrete.

Next, the piles are poured with concrete. After installing the piles, a formwork is made for the grillage, in which the same reinforcement bars are placed, interconnected. At this stage, the main thing is not to forget about the future installation of communications and leave the opportunity to make them in the future. Lay the pieces of plastic pipes across so that the foundation for the frame-panel house is made in accordance with all the rules.

For the subsequent installation of the lower trim, we fix the studs in the foundation tape. At the corners of the foundation - with steps of 300 mm, in all other areas - with a step of up to 2 meters. The studs will connect the frame of the panel building and the foundation in the future.

On a note

The drying time of the foundation can also be different, from 5-10 days in summer, and up to several weeks in winter. Most often, the foundations of frame-panel houses are made in the fall and left to “stand” until spring, covering the upper part of the foundation with polyethylene.

Waterproofing and bedding

The foundation of the frame-panel house is ready, but in order for it not to be damaged over time, it is necessary upper layer waterproofing, usually choose bitumen, waterproofing or roofing material. You can combine bitumen with roofing material, here it's up to you.

Waterproofing with bitumen in a pile-grillage foundation.

Next, install the bed. A dry beam or board is selected, which is installed around the entire perimeter of the foundation, the edges are aligned along the outer edge of the foundation. Where the studs are installed, holes are made with a drill.

Installation of strapping and lag

According to the video instructions for frame-panel houses, we install a strapping of boards 150 * 50 mm, on the edge, nail it to the installed bed, in increments of 400-500 mm. To this strapping, we begin to fasten the logs for the floor - the same boards 150 * 50 mm, installed on the edge and fixed at the end with three nails on both sides. The lag installation step is from 300-500 mm, depending on the future load.

The lower piping of the pile-grillage foundation.

Floor installation and insulation

After installing the foundation for the future floor, it must be insulated. The thickness of the insulation should not be less than 150-200 mm. And here, although experts do not advise choosing economical foam or expanded polystyrene boards, they admit that they are not afraid of moisture and can be installed without installing a subfloor.

Scheme of pile-grillage foundation.

Therefore, you can choose absolutely any insulation - whether it will be polystyrene or mineral wool. Next, lay the first floor of the boards and cover it with a sheet of plywood.

Installation of a frame-panel wall

It can happen in two ways - parts of the frame-panel wall of the house are assembled on the ground, and then they rise and are attached to the lower trim, fastened together top harness. This is an easy way to assemble frame-panel houses, the photo demonstrates the ease of mounting the house without much effort.

Installation of frame-panel walls.

The second way - a set of ready-made frame-panel walls is bought at a factory where ready-made prefabricated panel houses are made. It is important correctly that not to disturb the geometry of the frame-panel house.

The choice is yours - the first method is fast enough, because the assembled elements are immediately mounted. However, if the finished fragment of the frame-panel wall is heavy enough, it will be difficult to lift it yourself.

On a note

The dimensions of the corner and side racks will depend on the size of the insulation and the number of storeys. If we build one-story houses frame-panel boards, enough boards 100x50 mm. The installation step is selected according to the width of the insulation.

Ceilings of a frame-panel building

We install floor beams. Of the two preferred methods - setting on the edge, or on support brackets. You can choose the method of fastening floor beams that is convenient for you, if you are building, frame-panel buildings have a high margin of safety.

Ceiling beams in a frame-panel structure.

If you are planning a 2-story building, then it is better to take thicker beams and make the step between them not so big. It is advisable to calculate the load so that the floor beams can withstand the weight with a margin. On the installed beams, you can immediately lay a draft floor or a future ceiling.

Installation of rafters and roofing

The device of the roof - gable or mansard will not differ much from each other. The only point of contention you will have during installation roofing- it should not be made of massive material in order to wooden beams and the ceilings of the frame-panel house withstood it without problems.

It is better to assemble the rafters on the ground, they must be pulled together by a bolted connection and a wind bolt. For better bonding with the Mauerlat, the joints can be reinforced with additional plates.

Building insulation

In addition to polystyrene and expanded polystyrene, the insulation of a frame-panel house can be made with basalt wool. Mineral wool has sufficiently high heat and sound insulation characteristics, but it can easily get wet from rain and moisture. Therefore, it is important to close it on both sides with moisture-proof layers of protection.

Scheme of the device of the wall of the frame-panel structure.

mineral wool it is worth protecting on both sides from additional moisture and vapors using a protective membrane.

After the insulation of the frame-panel house, wall cladding and installation of the roof, only Finishing work and installation of communications, and here there is a lot of room for your imagination and design ideas.