Comfortable for living is the temperature in the range of 20-25 ° C and humidity from 50 to 60%. In order for the house to have such a microclimate, it is necessary to insulate the walls. The optimal insulation for the walls of the house is selected taking into account the material itself and must meet a number of requirements. The main criterion for any thermal insulation material is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity.
Each of the types of modern insulation for the walls of the house has its own characteristics and characteristics, as well as a price range. You need to choose the material taking into account the characteristics.
The main differences between heaters:
It is also important to consider the way in which the consumer prefers to install insulation for the walls of the house outside. The video shows the possibility of independent work.
Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the entire room from moisture, are selected taking into account the climate and depending on the installation method. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation material.
The most commonly used types of materials for wall insulation outside:
- expanded polystyrene;
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- polyurethane foam;
- mineral wool;
- basalt heaters;
- liquid thermal insulation, etc.
External wall insulation gives a much better effect than the insulation of the house from the inside. In addition to their basic functions, insulation protects walls from atmospheric precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering, and this prolongs the life of the entire structure. Installing insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners can easily manage this task on their own. But in order to make everything as good as possible, you need to know what materials are available for the walls outside and how to fix them correctly.
Advantages of installing heaters to save heat:
- When installing wall panels, protection against sudden changes in temperature during different periods of the year is guaranteed. Therefore, the scheme will protect residents from severe frosts, but also protect from heat in summer. When work is done well, cold bridge formation and heat loss are prevented.
- Such a device does not affect the size of the building and its total area.
- The insulation, installed outside, protects the interior from mold and dampness.
- Performing isolation does not require a lot of time and money. Thermal insulation with special materials has a sufficient level of protection of the building.
- The appearance of the wall improves, the level of sound insulation increases.
All benefits are the same for each material, but some require thicker layers or money to purchase and installation of large layers of thermal insulation.
The main task of wall insulation- create comfortable conditions while minimizing the cost of space heating.
First, you should consider the existing technology for thermal insulation of external walls.
Most often, they resort to external insulation of the already arched wall of the building. This approach is able to solve as much as possible all the main problems of thermal insulation and preservation of walls from freezing and related negative phenomena of damage, weakening, corrosion of building materials.
So, plaster with an insulated surface (it is often called "Thermal Coat") is quite difficult to independently perform if the owner of the house does not have stable plastering skills. The process is quite "dirty" and labor intensive, but the total cost of materials is usually less than other types.
There is also an "integrated approach" to such external wall insulation - this is the use of facade cladding panels, the design of which already provides a layer of thermal insulation. plaster work in this case is not expected - after installation, only the seams between the tiles need to be sealed.
These materials, in fact, is a small air bubble in a polystyrene shell. Air does not move through them, and they perform the function of insulation well. Polystyrene has a low cost, which increases its popularity. Although he has almost no flaws. The main ones are only fragility and popularity in rats and mice.
But, as a thermal insulation of the walls outside, the foam is very good. It is quite suitable for further plastering or exterior decoration with artificial stone or wall panels.
E that material is expensive, but at the same time, its technical characteristics are much better. The most famous of these wall heaters can be safely called penoplex. This is a fairly durable material, although it has a porous structure. It is very convenient to plaster. Installation is carried out on special mastics, adhesive bases without the use of acetone, but special plastic fasteners can be called the best option for exterior decoration.
For rodents and various pests, such a heater is of no interest. In addition, in its production, substances are used that are not amenable to fungal formations. There are no actual disadvantages, except for the high cost, for such a heater. Its weight is small, which allows one person to work on the insulation of the house from the outside without help.
Such material has been known for a long time and has found application not only as a thermal insulator. It is used as a filler in armchairs and sofas, car seats. Simply put, this is a foaming agent that is known to every person.
As a heater, it can only be used under panels. Its soft structure does not allow plastering. Although some homeowners, using it as a heater, can plaster the walls after closing it with plywood or chipboard.
Its huge disadvantage is instability to high temperatures. In addition, due to its chemical composition, this thermal dielectric, when ignited, releases very toxic substances that are easy to poison, unlike extruded polystyrene, which does not burn.
Many are now talking about the harm that phenol supposedly releases from this material. However, the opinions of scientists here are divided. Some say that this is an absolutely neutral material, while others say that it is very harmful to the body. It is worth limiting ourselves to finding out the facts - this material is used in our time in almost all furniture, in cars and even as pillow filler.
Mineral wool as a heat insulator
This insulation can be used inside building blocks or in external wall insulation, followed by siding or wall paneling. It is most widely used in the construction of ventilated facades and insulation. soft roof. Most often, for this purpose, its various slabs of a certain size with basalt insulation are used, the price of which is relatively low.
Mineral wool has a higher thermal conductivity and vapor permeability than previous versions. That is why it is the cheapest insulator. With its use of heat in the house is enough. A rather unpleasant moment can be noted that when working with mineral wool, the skin begins to itch. In addition, this is a rather fragile thermal insulation of the walls from the outside. But for insulation such as a ventilated facade, such an insulator is almost indispensable.
Outdoor application of ecological cotton wool
To isolate ecowool, it is also necessary to arrange a frame for wall cladding. First, the frame is made. Then a heater is applied to the wall, which consists of cellulose mixed in certain proportions with water. Ecowool is glued to the wall, forming a continuous seamless heat-insulating layer. After drying, the excess is removed, which is outside the outer plane of the frame. Then a crate is made, siding or similar material is laid.
Applying hot plaster
The positive qualities of the insulation process is the use of the desired layer of warm plaster. In some situations, you can do without the use of reinforcing mesh. Preliminary leveling of the surface is not required for these insulating materials. This can be done by the plastic layer itself.
Before applying the plaster, it is desirable to treat the outer surface with an abrasive material. It is convenient to do this with the help of electromechanical devices, but manual processing is also allowed.
You need to know that the use of expanded polystyrene films is prohibited in rooms with increased fire safety requirements, for example, in hospitals, kindergartens, etc. In this case, it is necessary to use warm plasters.
This technique, among other things, has several disadvantages:
- such a surface cannot be finished quickly;
- before the layer of the wall should be treated with a primer;
- work is performed only on a dry wall;
- the material has poor soundproofing properties;
- for warm plaster you need a solid base.
The term "liquid insulation" for walls and other structures is just slang among consumers. This material is somewhat different from others.
The material is putty or paint, which includes:
- hollow microgranules in the form of spheres (0.02–0.1 mm in diameter) made of ceramics, glass, polymers;
- microporous particles of titanium dioxide;
- more often a binder, acrylic or latex, is used.
Since the consistency of the material is liquid, it is applied on treated surfaces in the usual way: using a brush, roller or spray. At the same time, a thin film is formed on the surface - at least 1 mm. And this is enough for thermal protection.
But why does such a thin coating create an effect for warming? Here it is necessary to understand how heat flows through the walls of the house:
Today, liquid insulation manufacturers offer various compositions that are used for various building structures. Since the materials for wall insulation are dismantled from the outside, it is necessary to choose a mastic intended for application to the facades of the building. The name "Facade" is necessarily present in its name. For example, Korund-Facade. Although many of the universal Thermocol, for example, can be used for thermal insulation of the outer walls of buildings.
Criteria for the selection of insulation for the exterior walls of the house
The main indicator by which to make a choice is the thermal conductivity of the material. The smaller it is, the better it will be.
The second criterion is the hygroscopicity of the material. This property is referred to as - "absorbs moisture." The fact is that moist air vapors penetrating inside the insulation begin to turn into ice at low temperatures, which will lead to the loss of all the characteristics of the heat-insulating material. They learned to deal with this by covering the heating layer on both sides with vapor and waterproofing films. But these are the following material costs. Although in some cases this cannot be done.
The third criterion is the fortress. The outer side of the wall is the part where various loads, more often mechanical ones, pass.
The fourth selection rule is the price of the product. There is a fairly wide line here, in which there are very cheap materials and very expensive ones. Of course, quality comes at a price. But there are offers on the market in which the ratio of price and quality is in the optimal range. Therefore, you should understand all the proposed insulation and choose not the most expensive, but with good technical and operational characteristics.
Now all of the above types of insulation for walls outside the house are sold, which are widely used in cottages, country cottages and high-rise buildings. All of them differ from each other in price and characteristics. There are a huge number of insulating materials on the market, and the choice is up to the consumer.
External thermal insulation gives a much better effect than warming the house from the inside. In addition to the main functions, the insulation protects the walls from precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering and thus prolongs the life of the entire building. Installation of insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners can easily cope with this task on their own. But in order to do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to know what materials there are for insulating walls from the outside, and how to fix them correctly.
Despite the fact that the operating conditions outside and inside the house are strikingly different, in both cases the same materials can be used. However, when choosing a heater, preference should be given to those options that best meet the following requirements:
- increased resistance to shrinkage;
- resistance to mechanical damage;
- resistance to ultraviolet;
- durability;
- ease of installation;
- resistance to insects and microorganisms.
For wooden houses the vapor permeability of the insulation is also important, because wooden walls should "breathe". As a rule, finishing coatings for facades are designed for long-term operation, and it is too troublesome and not always advisable to remove them every few years to replace worn-out thermal insulation. At the same time, if the insulation under the finish is compressed, cracked, starts to rot or mice gnaw it, it will no longer be able to retain heat, which means that it will not be possible to do without repair. That is why it is so important that the selected material fully meets the specified criteria.
Types of thermal insulation materials
At the moment, the construction market offers the following materials for home insulation:
All of them differ in technical characteristics, installation technology, have different service life. Moreover, each of them is suitable for outdoor use and has its own advantages. Let's consider these materials in more detail.
Mineral wool is made from fine fibers obtained by melting and pulverizing glass, blast-furnace slag or rocks. Depending on the location of the fibers, the structure of the insulation can be corrugated, vertically layered and horizontally layered, have different density and thickness. Each type of mineral wool has its own characteristics:
Mineral wool is produced in slabs and mats with various options coatings - kraft paper, aluminum foil, fiberglass. In terms of cost, basalt insulation is the most expensive, and the higher its density, the more expensive it is.
Benefits of mineral wool:
- the fine-fiber structure promotes the free passage of air and water vapor, so the risk of condensation on the insulated surface is minimal;
- due to the mineral base, the material is not subject to combustion, which means that it is an additional protection for the walls from fire;
- the insulation has a relatively high moisture resistance, and therefore effectively prevents the penetration of dampness into the house;
- mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and vibrations, and street noise almost does not penetrate into the insulated room;
- the insulation is lightweight, easy to process, thanks to its elasticity, it quickly restores its shape after crushing during installation;
- in mineral wool microorganisms, insects do not develop, rodents do not like it.
Disadvantages:
- mineral wool has a tendency to shrink, and the lower the density of the material, the faster the deformation occurs. Rigid basalt slabs are the least susceptible to shrinkage, but due to the high cost, not everyone can afford such thermal insulation;
- when wet for a long time, the insulation is saturated with moisture and loses its thermal insulation qualities;
- microscopic fibers are easily destroyed when squeezing and cutting the material, and then settle on the skin, causing irritation, and can enter the eyes and lungs. Glass wool is considered the most dangerous in this regard, but with other types of mineral wool, at least gloves and a respirator should be used.
Popular brands of mineral wool.
| Name | Brief characteristics |
|---|---|
| Basalt insulation with increased rigidity, produced in the form of plates with a thickness of 25 to 180 mm. Suitable for all types of facades, can serve as a basis for applying plaster. Differs in resistance to deformations and shrinkage, water tightness, low heat conductivity, is absolutely not combustible. Fastening is carried out with dowels and glue |
| A type of glass wool with various additives that improve the performance of the insulation. It is produced in plates and rolls, there are options with a foil coating. Widely used for insulation of facades of any type, frame structures, internal partitions, roofing systems |
| Fiberglass insulation that does not contain formaldehyde additives. It is produced in plates and rolls, it is distinguished by biological and chemical resistance, elasticity, good vapor permeability. Material thickness - from 5 to 10 cm |
| Glass wool insulation with a high content of water repellents. It is produced in the form of rolls, mats, rigid and semi-rigid plates, 50-100 mm thick. Suitable for all types of surfaces, ventilated facades, frame structures |
Prices for mineral wool
Styrofoam and XPS
Expanded polystyrene insulations are excellent thermal insulators due to their closed cell structure. Almost 98% of the material is air or an inert gas enclosed in sealed cells, so the insulation weighs very little. Both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam practically do not absorb moisture, which means they are excellent for insulating foundations, plinths, basements. When thermally insulating facades, these materials serve as the basis for applying plaster.
Advantages:
- polystyrene foam insulation weighs little and is easy to process during installation, so even a beginner can handle it. In addition, such thermal insulation does not exert a large load on the base, which means that there is no need for additional reinforcement of the supporting structures;
- microorganisms cannot develop in expanded polystyrene, therefore fungi and mold are not afraid of the insulation;
- with proper installation, these materials serve for a long time, especially XPS - up to 50 years;
- polystyrene and EPPS are resistant to soap and saline solutions, alkalis, bleach and other chemically aggressive substances;
- installation does not require protective equipment in the form of a respirator or gloves, since the insulation does not emit toxic fumes or small particles, and does not cause irritation.
Disadvantages:
- expanded polystyrene refers to vapor-tight materials, and therefore cannot be used for insulating wooden walls;
- the insulation is destroyed upon contact with solvents, drying oil, some types of varnishes, as well as under the influence of sunlight;
- soundproofing properties are much lower than those of mineral wool insulation;
- already at + 30 degrees, polystyrene foam begins to release harmful substances- toluene, styrene, formaldehyde and others. When burning, the amount of toxic emissions increases significantly.
On the domestic market, EPPS of domestic production - Penoplex and Tepleks, as well as polystyrene foam insulation of the Ursa, GREENPLEX, PRIMAPLEX brands are in great demand.
Styrofoam prices
Styrofoam
Cellulose insulation
Cellulose insulation, which is also called ecowool, is made from paper waste and waste paper. Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose fibers, the remaining 20% are antiseptics and flame retardants. The material is densely stuffed into all irregularities and voids and forms a dense seamless coating with high vapor permeability. Installation of insulation is carried out in two ways - dry and wet-glue, and both options can be performed both manually and using a special installation.
The dry method allows you to perform thermal insulation for a short time and immediately start finishing. But at the same time, the coating density will not be high enough, which will lead to shrinkage and the appearance of cold bridges. In addition, with dry blowing, a large amount of fine dust is formed and you have to work in a respirator.
The wet-glue method provides better adhesion of the insulation to the base, the layer is much denser and more resistant to shrinkage, which guarantees the durability of the thermal insulation. True, it takes time for the material to dry - from 2 to 3 days, and even more in cold or wet weather. And until the layer is completely dry, you can not start finishing.
Advantages:
- environmental Safety;
- excellent heat and sound insulation properties;
- resistance to bacteria, fungi, insects;
- fire resistance;
- long service life;
- affordable price.
- tendency to shrink;
- high hygroscopicity;
- the complexity of doing the work manually.
polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam, or PPU, belongs to a new generation of insulation and has improved characteristics compared to traditional materials. It is a liquid polymer mixture, which, after application to the surface, hardens and forms a durable coating with a cellular structure. The components are mixed immediately before starting work, and the finished solution is applied by spraying using a special installation.
Advantages:
- the liquid mixture easily fills all the bumps, cracks, recesses, is conveniently applied in hard-to-reach places;
- the material perfectly retains heat and muffles sounds;
- PPU is resistant to chemically aggressive substances, practically does not absorb water, withstands sudden changes in temperature;
- can be applied to any type of surface - wood, concrete, brick, metal;
- the insulation is very light, therefore it does not require strengthening of the supporting bases;
- the average service life is 25-30 years.
- polyurethane foam is destroyed under the influence of sunlight;
- spraying requires equipment and skills to work with it;
- PPU can not be used in areas that are very hot;
- high cost of material and services of specialists.
wall insulation technology
Thermal insulation of the facade can be performed in different ways, depending on the type of insulation. But for all options, a prerequisite is high-quality preparation of the base, because not a single insulation can stop the processes of destruction of wall materials. Consider the methods of insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards, as the most popular in frequent construction.
Warming with mineral wool
Exterior walls are cleaned of dirt, peeling plaster or paint. They repair cracks and problem areas, be sure to treat the places affected by the fungus. Small irregularities do not need to be eliminated - the mineral wool insulation is mounted using a frame, so all defects will hide inside. Finally, the walls are covered with a waterproof primer with antiseptic properties so that mold does not develop under the thermal insulation layer.
Step 1. The bars for the frame are cut to the desired length, treated on all sides with antiseptic impregnation and dried in air.
Advice. The cross section of the bars should be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. That is, if plates with a thickness of 50 mm are laid in one row, the thickness of the frame should be 5-6 cm, with two-layer laying - at least 11 cm. on the rib.
Step 2 On the walls, markings are made for the frame guides strictly according to the level, holes are drilled for fasteners and bars are installed. The distance between the posts should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation board. During installation, control the location of the elements building level, if necessary, use wooden linings under the beam so that all the racks are in the same plane.
Step 3. Insulation is inserted into the cells of the frame. To do this, the plates are slightly squeezed along the edges, pressed between the racks and released. The material spreads out on its own and densely fills the space. The insulation must be inserted so that there are no gaps between the plates.
Step 4 After filling all the cells from above, the insulation must be closed with a windproof moisture-proof membrane. The membrane is laid with the marked side outward, the sheets are arranged horizontally, starting from the bottom. A construction stapler is used to fix the membrane. The top sheet is overlapped by 8-10 cm, and it is recommended to glue the joints with adhesive tape.
Step 5. Filled over the membrane wooden slats counter-lattices 30-40 mm thick to provide an air gap. If this is not done, condensation will accumulate on the insulation, moisture will nourish the wooden frame and the structure will quickly become unusable.
After that, it remains only to mount the finish coating, for example, siding or corrugated board. The finish must completely cover the heat-insulating layer so that precipitation does not fall on the plates. Only under such conditions the material will last long and efficiently.
The last step - decorative facade decoration
Insulation with expanded polystyrene
This method of insulation is noticeably different from the previous one. First, the base must be leveled so that the material fits snugly against the surface. Secondly, the installation is carried out without a crate, the plates are attached to the glue and dowels-fungi.
Step 1. Prepared walls are primed with quartz sand, for example, Betokontakt. If the base is porous, the primer is applied in 2 layers.
Step 2 The lower boundary of the thermal insulation is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the house. Holes for dowels are drilled according to the marking in increments of 20-30 cm and the starting bar is fixed.
Starter bar fixed
Step 3 To fix the insulation, you need a special glue. You can use canned mounting adhesive, such as TYTAN STYRO 753, or dry adhesive mixture(Ceresit CT 83). The mixture is diluted in clean water according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix until smooth with a mixer at low speed.
They take the first sheet, apply glue on the back side with a continuous strip along the perimeter and in the center. Next, they apply a heater to the wall, resting the bottom edge on the starting profile, check the location with a level, firmly press it to the base.
Step 4 Fix the entire row, tightly joining the sheets together. The next row starts with half a sheet to offset the vertical seams. Excess glue that has come out at the joints is carefully removed with a spatula.
Step 5 When the glue has hardened, each sheet must be fixed with dish-shaped dowels. To do this, carefully drill holes in the wall through the insulation, insert dowels and carefully hammer them with a hammer. 5 fasteners are required per sheet - in each corner and in the center.
Step 6 Next knead adhesive solution, applied in a continuous layer on the insulation, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid on top and recessed in the solution. Openings and corners are additionally reinforced with corner profiles.
When the solution dries, the surface is sanded, dusted and plastered with a thin layer. Now it remains only to paint the facade or apply decorative plaster.
Prices for Ceresit glue
Glue Ceresit
Video - Materials for wall insulation outside
Video - Insulation of the facade with foam plastic
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Home insulation is one of the most important factors affecting the savings of the family budget. After all, if the house is blown from all sides, heating costs increase many times over. Experienced craftsmen do not advise insulating the premises from the inside - this leads not only to a decrease in usable area, but also to the destruction of the walls due to the formation of condensate between the walls and thermal insulation, which means that such work should be done outside the buildings. Types of insulation for walls outside, the price and materials for the manufacture of thermal insulation - this is the topic of our conversation today.
Wall insulation is very important for saving the family budget.
The reason for the external insulation is that the thermal insulation for the walls, made inside the room, does not allow the internal air to warm up the building. As a result, in the cold season, on a cooled wall, with inside, condensation forms. Thermal insulation does not allow it to evaporate, which entails not only the formation of mold and fungus between the insulation and the wall. This leads to a rather rapid destruction of the wall. In addition, literally after a year or two, a persistent smell of dampness begins to appear in the home, which is quite difficult to get rid of.
Extruded polystyrene - what is it
This material has a higher cost, but at the same time its technical characteristics are much better. The most famous of these heaters for walls outside can be safely called penoplex. It is strong enough, although it has a porous structure. It is also very convenient in plastering. Installation is carried out on special mastics, adhesive bases without the use of acetone, but the best option at exterior finish can be called special plastic anchors.
For rodents and various pests, such a heater is of no interest. In addition, in its manufacture, substances are used that are not susceptible to the formation of fungus. In fact, there is only one minus - high flammability. The weight of the plates is small, which, coupled with its strength, makes it possible to carry out work on the insulation of the house from the outside with foam plastic to one person without any help.
Polyurethane foam - what are its disadvantages and advantages
Such material has been known for a long time and has found application not only as a thermal insulator. It is used as a filler in armchairs and sofas, car and bus seats. To put it simply, this is foam rubber, which is probably known to every person.
As a heater, it can only be used under panels. Its soft structure does not allow plastering. Although some home craftsmen, using foam rubber as a heat insulator, then close it or, which allows subsequent plastering of the wall.
It is important to know! Its biggest disadvantage is its high temperature instability. In addition, “due to” its chemical composition, this thermal insulator, when ignited, releases very toxic substances that are quite easy to poison, unlike extruded polystyrene foam, which is not subject to combustion.
Many are now talking about the harm that the phenol allegedly emitted by this material causes. However, scholars are divided on this. Some say that it is absolutely neutral, while others, on the contrary, argue that it causes colossal harm to the body. We will not take sides, limiting ourselves to stating facts - this material is now used in almost all furniture, in cars, and even as a filler for pillows. And if its harm had been proven, then a self-respecting manufacturer would hardly have dared to poison people.
Mineral wool, its varieties and the possibility of using it for thermal insulation
This heat insulator can be used inside or outside thermal insulation of walls followed by siding or wall paneling. It is most widely used in the construction of ventilated facades and insulation. Most often, for these purposes, its variety is used - plates of a certain size of basalt insulation, the price of which is relatively low.
Mineral wool has a higher thermal conductivity and vapor permeability than previous options. It is due to this that it is the cheapest insulation. However, when using it, the heat in the house becomes quite enough. A rather unpleasant moment can be called the fact that when working with it, the body begins to itch. Of course, not as strong as it was with its predecessor - glassy, but still sensitive. In addition, it is quite brittle and fragile material. But still, for such a type of insulation as a ventilated facade, such a thermal insulator is practically indispensable.
Liquid wall insulation - how to use it and how it performs its functions
In appearance, such a heat insulator resembles thick paint. There is no doubt about the quality of his performance of his functions. However, its popularity is reduced by its high cost - not everyone can afford it. It is for this reason that professionals advise applying it only in the corners of the house and at the joints of the foundation and walls. It is better to cover the rest of the area with a more affordable heater. It will be very wasteful to choose it to insulate all wall surfaces.
Such material can be divided into 2 groups - this is thermal paint and liquid foam. Both of them do an excellent job not only with warming, but also with. Fits well on them, which means their compatibility with any material. High adhesion allows the use of this heat insulator on any surface, be it stone, concrete, brick or wood.
The main manufacturers of thermal insulation materials - a brief overview
There are a lot of manufacturers of thermal insulation in Russia. And each of them is good in its own way, and therefore it makes no sense to make any kind of rating, it makes no sense. So today we will just say a few words about each of them.
- "Ecover" is a manufacturer of very good quality basalt slabs. In addition to wall products, it produces roofing heat-insulating materials and sandwich panels.
- "Knauf"- the same mineral wool, however, the peculiarity of the manufacturer is that he produces it not in slabs, but in rolls. The layer thickness can be different.
- "Isover"- glass wool and its varieties. Such a thermal insulator has a very big drawback - the organization of moisture removal is required
- "Penofol"- basalt slabs are quite high quality, but the heat-insulating material made of extruded polystyrene foam brought great popularity to this brand.
- "TechnoNIKOL"- a brand known throughout Russia and having factories in many regions. In addition to roofing material and others roofing materials manufactures XPS boards and basalt insulation.
- "URSA"– mainly basalt and fiberglass boards of excellent quality
- "Penoplex"- the name has become a household name. "Penoplex" is now called all the plates of their XPS, regardless of the manufacturer
- Ecoteplin- unique and absolutely natural tile materials, which include flax fibers, borax and starch.
- "Astratek"- liquid heaters, which have no analogues in Russia. High-quality thermal insulation is achieved already when applying a layer of only 3 mm.
Related article:
By choosing plates of suitable thickness, you can ensure a sufficient level of thermal insulation of walls, floors, ceilings. Let's talk about this heater in more detail in our review.
The list of manufacturers is endless, we have named only a few of the most famous.
Features of wall insulation outside the house - ventilated facade
Mineral wool is used for the ventilated facade. In simple terms, without the use of building terms, a frame made of a metal profile with cells according to the size of mineral, fiberglass or basalt slabs is assembled on the wall, or the same profiles are attached in a line from the bottom to the top of the building, between which insulation is laid. After it closes with a special hydro and. Facing is made with ceramic-granite tiles (usually 50 × 50 cm), which are fixed to the same guides using special metal clips called "crabs".
Thus, the developer achieves a solution to several problems at once - insulation, vapor barrier and finishing.
Three-layer wall construction - installation features
Thus, the walls of low-rise buildings from or are often insulated. The technology is pretty simple. A building made of rough bricks is insulated from the outside with the help of any polymer thermal insulator, and then lined with facing bricks. But although the quality of such thermal insulation is not bad, this method has its drawbacks. The main of them can be called the low durability of the insulation in comparison with the building and facing material. Despite this, the popularity of such insulation is quite high.
Calculation of insulation for the walls of the house: convenient online calculators
Calculate required dimensions plates along the length and width of the wall is easy. A much bigger problem here is the calculation of the required thickness, which depends on many different parameters, including the region in which the residential building is located. That is why we suggest you use our online calculators, which will perform all the calculations themselves.
Online calculator for calculating the thickness of the insulation of the walls of a wooden house
For a comfortable stay in your home in winter, many perform its external insulation. In addition, it improves the thermal insulation of the room in the summer, prevents overheating of the walls. What is better to use insulation for the walls of the house outside, their features will tell the article.
Before making the insulation of external walls, it is worth getting acquainted with its characteristics and main advantages.
Insulation of the walls of a private house from the outside allows:
- Save usable indoor space.
- Protect your home from freezing.
- To increase the overall operational resource of the building, without additional load on its structure and on the foundation.
- Improve frost protection. This is due to the fact that the insulation of the outer wall of the house allows you to shift the point of condensation towards the heat-insulating layer. There is no risk of mold and mildew formation.
- Do not cool the walls insulated from the outside, and for a long time keep the heat inside the building, without losing it.
- Insulators for the exterior walls of the house from the outside quickly lose moisture, without changing their basic characteristics.
- Provide high sound insulation of the room.
Before you insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you need to pay attention to such characteristics of the material as:
- Steam and moisture permeability.
- The degree of absorption of air and moisture.
- Thermal conductivity.
- Resistant to temperature changes.
- biological stability.
- Resistance to chemicals.
- Temperature retention coefficient.
- No shrinkage and aesthetics.
- Light weight.
- Ease of installation with your own hands, so that there are no butt seams.
Some characteristics of the most popular materials for thermal insulation of walls from the outside are presented in the table:
Tip: In any case, the external thermal insulation of the walls of the house should create a rational warm structure. In this case, all external factors should be taken into account: rain, snow, a strong temperature drop, which the insulation must withstand.
Types of materials
When choosing insulation for the wall of the house, first of all, the material of the building should be taken into account.
The most popular types of heaters and their characteristics are presented in the table:
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Calculation of the thickness of the insulation layer
Of great importance for the quality insulation of the building is the correct heat calculation of the outer wall of a residential building.
This should take into account:
- Insulation thickness. Too small can cause freezing of the walls, transfer the “dew point” inside the room. This will lead to an excess of moisture in the house, the formation of condensation on the walls. If the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is increased more than necessary, it will not bring significant improvements, but will only add additional financial costs.
Tip: Only a correctly calculated thickness of thermal insulation for the house will save money and keep the house in a normal thermal regime.
- Thermal resistance of the material for insulation - R. This is a coefficient representing: the temperature difference along the edges of the insulation / by the amount of heat flow going through it. This value reflects the properties of the insulation and is determined by: material density / thermal conductivity.
With an increase in R, the thermal insulation properties of the material improve. Calculation formula: R = wall thickness in meters / coefficient inherent in the thermal insulation of a particular material.
- Meaning R can be selected for different climatic zones according to the relevant tables.
For example, the calculation of the insulation of the house with polystyrene foam 100 millimeters thick, with walls made of silicate bricks, the thickness of which is 51 centimeters, was chosen.
For this:
- The coefficients of heat resistance R for the wall and foam are calculated.
- The two obtained values are added.
- Wall thickness 0.51 meters / for the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the wall material 0.87 W / (m ° C) \u003d 0.58 (m 2 ° C) / W.
- It turned out the heat transfer resistance of the brickwork wall R = 0.58 (m 2 ° C) / W.
- The R value is calculated for foam plastic 0.1 meters thick.
- It is divided by the coefficient of thermal conductivity corresponding to the foam, equal to 0.043 W / (m ° C).
- The result was R = 0.1 / 0.043 = 2.32 (m 2 ° C) / W.
- The obtained coefficients R for silicate brick and foam plastic are added up: R \u003d 0.58 + 2.32 \u003d 2.9 (m 2 ° C) / W.
- The value is compared with the required values of the coefficient for external walls in different climatic zones.
Analyzing the result, we can conclude that it is necessary to insulate the building with a heater with a thickness of at least 10 centimeters.
External wall insulation
After choosing the material, before insulating outer wall at home, you need to prepare the surface for further work.
For this:
- If necessary, the remaining layer of plaster is removed to the very base. The result is a flat surface.
- If there are significant level differences on the wall, recesses or protrusions of more than one centimeter, they are sealed with mortar or combed.
- The surface is cleaned from dirt and dust.
- The wall is primed. The primer is best used with deep penetration.
- To obtain an even layer of insulation, a system of beacons and plumb lines is pre-mounted. These elements determine the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, facilitating installation.
- On the anchors or screws installed along the upper edge of the wall, threads of great strength are tied and lowered with a plumb line to the bottom.
- Tied with horizontal threads.
- According to the obtained control grid, you can navigate when installing a heat insulator or frame.
- Further technology for insulating the outer walls of the house for each material is somewhat different.
In order for all processes to be performed correctly, it is better to first get acquainted with the video in this article.
Foam insulation
The work instructions are as follows:
- After surface preparation, window sills are installed outside and slopes are insulated.
- The ebbs are attached to the window itself or to an additional profile.
- The window sill is taken out taking into account the insulation of the wall - one centimeter is added to the thickness of the insulation. In this case, the window sill will protrude 4 centimeters beyond the finished wall.
- The starting profile is mounted from below, which will give reliability of fixing the insulation from below.
- The mixture is applied to the wall.
Tip: Do not apply the solution to the foam. Otherwise, when gluing parts to the wall, voids may form between the even plane of the foam and the uneven wall.
- The solution is distributed along the perimeter of the sheet in a discontinuous strip. This strip, when the foam sheets and the wall come into contact, will diverge under the edges of adjacent sheets, which will increase the strength of the joints.
- A sheet is glued to the mixture, carefully exposed and pressed with force.
Tip: Laying foam on the wall should be done in a checkerboard pattern.
- Three days after gluing the sheets, they are nailed to the wall with special fungi or caps with a plastic sleeve.
- After attaching the fungus, a plastic or metal nail is hammered into its sleeve.
- About 5 fungi should be placed on the sheet, stepping back from the corner of the wall about 10 centimeters.
- The joints between the foam sheets are carefully examined for gaps. If they are more than 5 millimeters, they should be filled with foam.
- Strips of insulation are additionally inserted into gaps over 1.5 centimeters and blown with foam.
- After 5 hours, the protruding parts are cut off with a knife.
- The joints are corrected with a foam grater.
- All butt joints and fungal caps are puttied with an adhesive mixture.
- Mesh is glued to the corners and walls.
- The mixture is rubbed with sandpaper.
- The facade is primed.
- The facade walls are being finished.
Warming with mineral wool
Before you insulate the wall of the house outside with mineral wool, you need to properly prepare the walls.
For this:
- Wooden structures are impregnated with an antiseptic to prevent damage to the log house by microorganisms.
- Damaged sections of the walls with rot, fungus or mold are carefully cleaned and impregnated with appropriate solutions.
- Walls made of brick and foam concrete are freed from peeling paint and plaster.
- Wet walls are thoroughly dried.
- Slopes and platbands of windows are dismantled.
- All decorative and fasteners that can harm the vapor barrier and insulation are removed from the walls.
- A layer of a vapor-permeable membrane is laid under the insulation. In this case, the film is located with a vapor-permeable side to the wall of the house, and smooth - to the insulation. The role of the membrane is to ensure the removal of water vapor from the surfaces of the walls of the building through the insulation.
- Fastened with self-tapping screws or dowels guide wooden slats, or a metal profile for fixing drywall. The step between the rails is taken 2 centimeters less than the width of the insulation elements used, and the thickness of the rails is equal to the thickness of the insulation.
- Reiki are fixed from the corner of the house.
Tip: When using insulation in the form of mats, you should additionally fix a horizontal rail at the bottom of the wall to install the lower insulation mat.
- Mats or rolls of mineral wool are laid between the guide rails: the mats are laid from below, and the rolls are laid from above, fixing the materials on the wall between the rails by surprise, or using dowels with a wide head.
- To brick or block surfaces, the plate material is attached without a gap to a special glue, for a snug fit of the insulation.
- First, whole pieces of insulation are laid, then the remaining areas around the door and window openings are filled.
- Another layer of film is laid for wind protection and waterproofing.
- The material must be vapor-permeable, for unhindered removal of moisture from the insulation to the outside.
- The film is attached to the rails with staples without tension.
- The entire layer of insulation and vapor barrier is additionally fixed to the wall with dowels with a wide cap.
- For better waterproofing the attachment points are glued with metallized tape.
- An important stage of wall insulation is the installation of a ventilated facade. In this case, the ventilation gap should be more than 5 centimeters. To do this, additional counter rails are stuffed onto the guides, and a ventilated facade is mounted on them. It can be: siding, block house or other materials.
- With external wall insulation, their thickness increases, which will require the installation of new window slopes, window sills, platbands and trim elements.
External insulation of building walls with mineral wool is one of the most popular methods used for thermal insulation of buildings.
These are just some of the recommendations on how to properly insulate the walls outside the house, from the most used types of material. When performing work, you need to be guided by your desires and capabilities, and most importantly, strictly follow the rules for installing a particular insulation.
No matter how comfortable and modern a house is, without high-quality thermal insulation it will not become comfortable for living. Properly organized insulation can significantly reduce heating costs, protect the facade of the house and its premises from dampness, freezing, mold and fungi, which will significantly extend the life of the building. The most popular is the external, or facade insulation of the house.
Advantages and disadvantages of external insulation
All load-bearing elements of the structure should be thermally insulated, but this is especially important for the outer walls of the house, since they are the leaders in terms of heat loss.
By insulating the outer walls, it is possible to protect them from the negative effects of high and low temperatures, as well as their abrupt change. As a rule, the insulation is closed with a facade, which also performs a protective function, taking on the atmospheric effect on itself. All this contributes to maintaining the strength of the walls, increasing the period of their maintenance-free operation.
Insulation from the outside can be quite voluminous, but this does not affect the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe premises in the house. This cannot be achieved when warming rooms from the inside, because even the thinnest layer of thermal insulation leads to a slight, but a decrease in usable area.
In addition, at external insulation it is possible to avoid the formation of "cold bridges", which inevitably arise between the floor and walls, walls and partitions when internal insulation premises. User reviews suggest that "cold bridges" are practically not formed when the facade is insulated. Otherwise, they can be easily eliminated by using special gaskets at the joints of insulation sheets.
The task of thermal insulation of external walls is to bring the total indicator of their resistance to heat transfer to the design indicator that is optimal for a particular area. More details about such calculations will be discussed below.
Usually, insulation is resorted to already on erected walls. Thanks to the variety of modern materials and methods of insulation, it is possible to solve the problems of heat transfer and, accordingly, protect walls from freezing, erosion on concrete surfaces, and decay of wooden structures.
In rare cases, you can do without additional wall insulation in frame houses primarily. Others, for example, foam block houses, definitely need thermal insulation.
Ways
Depending on the type of facade, structural features and the selected option exterior finish one or another method of installing insulation is selected. Today's thermal insulation materials have a small thickness with high thermal efficiency. They are suitable for laying on a "wet" and "dry" facade, and can also be poured into wall voids. The first involves the use of building mixtures for finishing, fixing the insulation is carried out on glue.
Hinged facades involve the use of fasteners. As a rule, panels and tiles are used for decoration, which delight in the variety of designs. The user can choose calm, muted shades of the panels or, on the contrary, bright ones. Facade materials imitating stone, wood, imitating plaster or brickwork are very popular.
Insulation with bulk material, for example, granular foam glass, is used in the construction of walls using the well method. Also, materials of this type are suitable for mixing masonry mortars and plaster mixes. Regardless of the chosen method of laying the insulation, the surface of the walls should be prepared. All protruding elements must be beaten off, cracks and gaps are eliminated with cement mortar.
It is necessary to remove all communications from the facade - wires, pipes. The surface must be level, clean and dry. After that, it is necessary to prime the facade in 2-3 layers. The primer will provide additional protection to the walls, as well as better adhesion of materials. It is recommended to pre-treat wooden surfaces with an antiseptic or choose a primer containing antiseptic additives.
Under plaster
Insulation in the form of sheets or plates is glued onto the prepared wall with special glue. Additional fixation is provided by umbrella dowels, which are inserted into specially made holes on the surface of the glued insulation. Each subsequent row of insulation is attached with an offset of ½ sheet of the previous row. For some time after gluing, the material remains mobile, so it is possible to align it and correct minor flaws.
After the insulation is fixed, a thick layer of glue is applied to it, into which a reinforcing mesh is pressed. First, it is attached to the corners of the building, for which special corners are used. After about a day, the facade mesh is securely installed at the corners and you can proceed to attaching the mesh to the rest of the facade surfaces.
The next stage is the plastering of surfaces. The composition is applied in several layers. Each subsequent - after the complete drying of the previous one. To improve the adhesion of the layers and eliminate small irregularities on the dry layer, you should walk with fine sandpaper.
The final layer of plaster is covered decorative plaster or painted with facade paint. The latter usually has an acrylic base, the presence of polyurethane in the composition is acceptable to increase the strength and wear resistance of the painted layer.
Ventilated facade
To increase the thermal efficiency of buildings, more and more often resort to the organization of a ventilated facade. Its feature is the presence of air space between the insulation fixed close to the wall and the facade material. This distance is usually 25-50 mm.
In addition to preparing the facade, it is necessary to install a crate - a system consisting of metal profiles or wooden bars, which is a frame. Facade materials are attached to this frame.
For crates are increasingly used metal profiles, which is associated with their greater bearing capacity, as well as durability and fire resistance. Important point- the profiles of the crate must be made of stainless steel. It is acceptable to use other metals, but on condition that they have anti-corrosion protection.
Wooden logs are also used as a frame. Before installation, they are treated with flame retardants and compounds that increase the hydrophobicity of wood. The frame is attached to the entire surface of the facade by means of brackets. Insulation (in the form of sheets, mats) is laid between the railing guides, which is mounted on brackets (as if hung on them).
A waterproofing windproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation, which protects the heat-insulating layer from moisture and blowing. The membrane together with the insulation is fixed to the wall by means of dish-shaped dowels. The fastening element must necessarily fall in the center of each heat-insulating sheet, 2-3 dowels are installed at the edges.
The completion of the work is the installation of hinged panels or tiles, which are fastened with screws to the crate and interlock with each other by means of a locking mechanism. The latter ensures the wind resistance of the facade, the absence of gaps in it. For decorating corners, windows and doorways, various architectural elements use special additional structures.
It is a mistake to assume that only a hinged facade can be ventilated. "Wet" technology is quite applicable to a ventilated system. For this, the facade is also decorated with a wooden crate, between the guides of which insulation is glued. A protective membrane is installed on top of it.
This "pie" is covered with a solid crate of plywood or boards. They are attached to wooden logs, so it turns out a solid wooden "facade". It is primed, and after drying, finishing plastering is performed.
Finally, there is the so-called integrated approach - the organization of a ventilated facade using thermal panels. The latter are insulated facade slabs (for example, clinker), which are glued or fixed to the crate. Additional insulation walls are not needed, the main thing is to choose the desired thickness of the thermal panel insulation (the standard thickness is 30-100 mm) and seal the gaps between the facade tiles.
Three layer system
This insulation technology is possible only when building walls at home. As a rule, it involves laying walls according to the principle of a well. As the level of the facade rises, an air space is formed between the walls. It is filled with bulk insulation or liquid heat-insulating mixtures.
Option similar construction may be the use of overall aerated concrete blocks with large cavities for the construction of walls. At the same time, the cavities in the blocks are filled with loose heaters (expanded clay, perlite).
In an easier and less time-consuming way to build warm walls is the use of blocks of non-removable polystyrene foam formwork. The installation of blocks is somewhat similar to the assembly of a children's designer - the elements of the wall structure are fastened together by means of spikes and grooves. After the wall has risen somewhat, a reinforcing belt is installed and a concrete solution is poured.
The result is reinforced concrete walls equipped with inner and outer heat-insulating layer. Facade finishing in this case, it is carried out using ½ brick masonry, facade tiles or simply plastered. Choice of options interior decoration also wide.
The only way to organize a three-layer insulation system is to sheathe the structure with brickwork. In other words, the masonry acts as the outer layer of the "pie", as well as the finishing of the facade.
The technology involves insulating the main wall with insulation, and then lining it with bricks. This method is only suitable for reinforced foundations that protrude at least the width of a brick. If the bearing capacity of the existing foundation is low, then the brick cladding requires the installation of its own foundation. It, in turn, must be connected with the base of the main walls.
Varieties
Depending on the composition and manufacturing technologies, heaters have a different appearance, technical characteristics and scope. There are materials that are used exclusively on flat surfaces, while others are suitable only for a hinged ventilated facade.
However, modern heaters are quite versatile. So, bulk materials are suitable not only for insulating flat surfaces or backfilling into the inter-wall space, but can also be added to the cement mortar for pouring or floor screed. Mineral wool materials are used for wet and hinged facades, and are also suitable for thermal insulation of internal walls, floors and ceilings. Moreover, due to the heat resistance of stone wool, it can be used to insulate baths or saunas.
Stone wool can be used to insulate structures that are not subjected to loads, as well as those that are under pressure. To do this, you just need to choose the right density of cotton wool.
Due to the variety of release forms, it is possible to choose a more convenient option in terms of installation for a particular site. So, for warming flat, even areas, it is convenient to use roll materials. Plates will help out if necessary to cover large flat vertical surfaces. Bulk materials or foam insulation are suitable for basement insulation.
Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam
Previously, styrene foam heaters were almost the only ones, and therefore were widely used. Today, the situation is different, and the owners of private houses are in no hurry to use it for thermal insulation.
Expanded polystyrene materials are represented by two types - non-pressed foamed polystyrene (more commonly known as polystyrene foam) and an analogue obtained during extrusion. Styrofoam is a light rectangular blocks of white color, which can have different thicknesses. At the core are air-filled foam balls. They provide significant indicators of the thermal efficiency of the material.
However, it is important to understand that it is thanks to this structure that the material is able to absorb up to 300% of its mass of water. Naturally, in this case, there is no trace of the former thermal efficiency.
Styrofoam does not allow the walls to "breathe", and after 5-7 years its thermal efficiency will decrease by about 8 times. This is confirmed by laboratory studies and is associated with destructive changes in the material (the appearance of cracks, cavities).
The main danger of using polystyrene foam as a heater is its tendency to actively burn with the release of extremely toxic substances into the air. In this regard, it is banned for use in construction in many European countries.
However, in fairness it should be noted that, due to its low weight, the foam does not require strengthening the facade, it is easy to install, and has a low cost. More modern variety Styrofoam is extruded polystyrene foam. Thanks to technological features production, the material managed to deprive many of the shortcomings of the non-foamed counterpart.
The extruded material also consists of many smaller (compared to foam) air bubbles, each of which is isolated from the next. This increases the thermal efficiency of the material, as well as mechanical strength and moisture resistance.
The components of carbon dioxide or inert gases present in the composition somewhat increase the fire resistance of the extruded insulation, but it is not necessary to talk about its complete fire safety.
Due to the low vapor permeability, the material is suitable for use only as part of ventilated facades. At the same time, it is important to glue it tightly to the surface of the walls, avoiding gaps and cracks between the insulation and the wall.
Extruded polystyrene foam is good for insulating a basement or foundation. The increased strength of the material will ensure its resistance to soil pressure, and moisture resistance will protect it from getting wet and damaging the base.
polyurethane foam
The use of polyurethane foam is considered one of the most effective ways thermal insulation, since in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics it significantly exceeds most thermal insulation materials. To achieve a positive effect, a layer of 2-3 cm is enough.
Polyurethane foam refers to liquid types of insulation that are applied by spraying. After hardening, a durable moisture-resistant layer is formed. Due to the improved adhesion of the material, such a monolithic “fur coat” is applied to almost any surface. An important advantage of polyurethane foam is its fire resistance. Even when decomposed under high temperatures, it does not release toxins.
It is worth noting the environmental friendliness of the coating. During spraying, the composition contains compounds hazardous to health, however, as they solidify, they evaporate. The material is not suitable for contact finishing (plastering, painting) as it is not possible to obtain a completely smooth and even surface during the spraying process.
Leveling the polyurethane "fur coat" (as well as its complete removal) is a very laborious process. Among the disadvantages is low vapor permeability. This necessitates enhanced facade ventilation. Polyurethane foam is not recommended for application to wooden walls, since in just 5-7 years the wood rots due to constantly high humidity.
Mineral wool
Today, this material is becoming more widespread due to its versatility, good thermal insulation performance and affordability. Such a material is a randomly arranged fibers, between which air bubbles are contained in large volumes. It is they who provide not only a high thermal insulation effect, but also good sound insulation.
When insulating facades, glass and basalt wool are usually used. The first one is based on cullet and quartz sand, which are melted. Long and thin fibers are formed from the semi-liquid mass, after which they are given the necessary shape (mats, rolls).
Glass wool is plastic, which, firstly, makes it easy to transport and store, and secondly, it can be used on uneven surfaces. The material is pressed and packed into compact boxes or rolls. After opening the package, the material assumes the intended shape and volume. In addition, due to its elasticity, glass wool insulation is optimal for facing wall surfaces with complex configurations.
The material does not fade, does not attract rodents or pathogenic microflora (fungi, insects). The combustion temperature is 500 degrees, which allows us to speak of a low flammability class of the material. A definite plus is its affordable price.
A significant disadvantage of glass wool is its hygroscopicity. It is clear that when wet, the material loses its technical characteristics. In this regard, when using insulation, it is important to consider reliable waterproofing or the possibility of regular ventilation.
Glass elements, being amorphous, stick together during operation. This causes shrinkage of the material - over time it becomes thinner, which negatively affects its thermal insulation abilities. Finally, glass wool fibers have cutting edges. They penetrate the skin, causing irritation.
In addition, rising into the air, glass wool particles enter the upper respiratory tract and on the surface of the mucous membranes, also causing swelling and irritation. To work with insulation, you must purchase a special suit, goggles, gloves and a respirator.
More attractive in terms of installation and specifications is basalt wool. It is also called stone, which is explained by the peculiarities of the composition. Cotton wool is produced from molten rocks (basalt, dolomite). The heating temperature reaches 1300-1500 degrees. Fibers are also drawn from the melted raw material, from which mats are formed. Those, in turn, are subjected to pressing and additional heat treatment to obtain strength and geometric accuracy of forms.
Basalt wool is superior in its thermal efficiency to fiberglass of similar density. Stone wool is characterized by excellent vapor permeability and high water resistance (due to special fiber impregnation). Despite the density of the mats, they are easily cut with a construction knife. In this case, the adhesive composition can be applied directly to the wool, as well as laying the plaster layer (after the reinforcement of the wool).
The fibers of basalt insulation are less brittle and do not prick. It is easier to work with the material, although you should not refuse a respirator. Like all mineral wool insulation, stone wool generates dust during installation, which negatively affects the state of the respiratory system.
Liquid products
When applied, liquid heaters look like paint. However, they contain evacuated voids, thanks to which amazingly low thermal conductivity values are achieved (by fractions of a thousandth, they surpass only the thermal conductivity of vacuum).
It is worth noting the ease of application and good adhesion with most building materials. The compositions are applied as paint coatings with brushes or rollers. Hardening time - on average, 6-8 hours. After that, an attractive externally, fire-resistant, environmentally friendly surface is formed. The liquid coating also protects the walls from negative atmospheric effects, has anti-corrosion characteristics.
Bulk types
Used to fill wall cavities or create solutions with thermal insulation properties. The oldest loose heat insulator is expanded clay, which is "balls" of fired clay of different fractions. Due to the porous structure, the material has good thermal insulation properties. In the process of sintering, it acquires surface strength. In combination with low weight, this expands the scope of expanded clay.
The advantage of the material is its non-hygroscopicity (despite the porous structure), fire resistance (does not burn, does not emit toxins during heating), biostability (does not become a habitat for any form of life, home or food for rodents), environmental friendliness and affordable price. When using expanded clay, it is important to fill it with a thick layer, use a multi-layer structure or large hollow blocks. This is the only way to achieve high-quality insulation.
A more modern bulk insulation is vermiculite. It is based on hydromica, which is subjected to high-temperature firing. As a result, it swells, turning into layered granules with a large number of pores.
It has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, fire resistance and durability. The only drawback is the high cost (on average, 7000-10000 rubles per m3 of vermiculite). The optimal solution in this regard is the addition of granules to the composition of the plaster mixture to obtain a "warm plaster". Due to its high vapor permeability, such plaster is successfully used on different types surfaces.
No less effective is the use of expanded perlite sand. The raw material is volcanic glass, which, after firing, forms fine and light porous sand.
The finished product is characterized by high thermal insulation values (due to low density and gas content), fire resistance. Perlite contains fine powder, which makes it quite difficult to work with it - the process promises to be troublesome and dusty. Best Solution- mixing it into concrete or masonry mortars.
The use of the latter provides high-quality thermal insulation and reduces the risk of the formation of "cold bridges", since the solution penetrates into the joints between bricks or blocks, fills cracks and voids. Perlite is also used as part of " warm plasters”, the application of which not only copes with the function of thermal insulation of the house, but also acts as a finishing facade.
Criterias of choice
In addition to low thermal conductivity, insulation for external walls must be characterized by high fire resistance. The best materials are those that belong to the NG class (non-combustible materials) or have a low flammability class (G1, G2). Fortunately, most materials are self-extinguishing, that is, they do not burn with an open flame.
However, modern synthetic-based insulation (and most of them) can emit hazardous combustion products during smoldering. According to statistics, it is they who cause human casualties in case of fire. In this regard, it is important to choose not only a fire-resistant material, but also to make sure that it does not emit toxic elements during combustion.
Another important criterion is the vapor permeability of the insulation. When insulating walls, it is important to bring the "dew point" to the outer layer of insulation. This point is a linearly changing boundary, which accounts for the transition of moisture from one state of aggregation to another, or rather, from vapor to liquid. The liquid, in turn, leads to wetting of the walls and insulation, after which the latter ceases to cope with its functions.
The walls get wet, erosion and other damage occur on them, zones of high humidity are found inside the house, which leads to dampness of the walls, the appearance of mold, and nesting of insects. To avoid such troubles allows the choice of insulation with high rates of vapor barrier and moisture resistance and, of course, the competent organization of the heat-insulating "pie" with the obligatory use of a vapor barrier film or membrane.
When choosing a heater, it is important to consider the material of the cladding. Yes, for brick walls you can buy polystyrene foam, while it is imperative to provide a ventilation system. Under the wet facade, stone wool or polystyrene foam is traditionally used. Under hinged facades - mineral wool insulation, as well as under wooden buildings.
It is important to take into account the features of the operation of a suburban building. So, as a heater in the country, where you live only in the summer, extruded polystyrene foam is quite suitable. If you finish it with plaster, it will turn out to equip the facade cheaply and beautifully.
But polystyrene cannot be used to insulate walls made of aerated concrete. A good solution would be the use of mineral wool insulation and further finishing with siding. By the way, this option is also optimal for cinder block houses and expanded clay concrete walls. Arbolite house, built from blocks with a thickness of 30 cm or more, you can not insulate. The exception is living in a region with a harsh climate.
Preparatory work
Preparatory work imply the choice and purchase of insulation. It is important to correctly calculate its quantity (volume), as well as its thickness. If thermal insulation is carried out independently by the owner of the house, evenness and smoothness of the walls should be achieved.
To do this, communications are dismantled from their surface, protruding elements are knocked down, cement mortar cracks are filled. After that, the facade is primed in 2-3 layers. When organizing a ventilated system, a crate is mounted. When facing with brick, the foundation is strengthened.
Thickness calculation
With thermal insulation, it is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to calculate its required thickness. Using an excessively thin layer will not solve the problem of heat loss. An unreasonably thick layer will lead to an excessive load on the walls, an unreasonable increase in the cost of work.
There is a special formula to calculate the thickness of the insulation, but it can be difficult for a non-professional to work on it. To simplify the calculation process allows knowledge regulatory requirements to wall thickness. So, for brick walls, this thickness is 210 cm, for wooden ones - 53 cm. Next, you need to find out the thickness of the walls in your own house, by subtracting to establish how many cm are not enough to meet the standard values.
Mounting technology
Most modern heaters are versatile and suitable for mounting from the street to stone, concrete, wooden surfaces, block bases. As a finish, both decorative compositions and tiles, panels and siding for tiles and natural finishing materials are used.
The installation technology varies depending on the organization of the facade system and the materials used. A little higher, it was already said about 3 possible ways to arrange an insulated facade:
- thermal insulation under plaster;
- ventilated facade;
- three-layer facade.
When insulating walls, it is important to take care of the insulation of its basement. It is through the base that most of the heat loss occurs. Foamed polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, basalt insulation are suitable as a heater.
The surface of the plinth is cleaned of facade coating, dirt, if necessary, reinforced, necessarily leveled, primed. Next, the insulation is fixed in accordance with the technological recommendations for its installation.
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