In line big city nowadays, having your own garage for your personal car is an incredible fortune. But the owners of suburban areas do not have a reliable shelter for the car - just ashamed. It is clear that those who visit their country estates occasionally, only on weekends, are often limited to just a parking area, sometimes supplementing it with a light canopy. Well, those car owners who spend most of their time outside the city or live there permanently are simply obliged to build a real garage in order to protect their car from precipitation, dust and dirt carried by the wind, bird “marks”, etc. And sleep much more peacefully, realizing that your car is under lock and key in the shelter.
Of course, nothing can be compared in terms of reliability with a capital stone (brick) garage, but this business is quite expensive, the construction process is quite lengthy, and the ability to carry out such large-scale construction works not everyone has it. It's okay - it is quite possible to get by with a simpler option by building a metal garage with your own hands. With high-quality assembly and well-conducted insulation, it will also become quite a cozy “home” for the car. The costs in this case are much lower, but the vast majority of Russian men must have the basic skills of general construction, plumbing and carpentry.
What metal garage to choose for construction?
This question is important from the point of view that everyone has different financial capabilities, and the degree of accessibility of one or another metal garage- too.
Ready-made prefabricated collapsible garage - convenient, but, alas, expensive A. Probably the most convenient option in terms of erection is to purchase a ready-made factory kit containing all the parts necessary for assembly. To assemble such a metal garage with your own hands, with the help of two or three people, using only the simplest locksmith tools - spanners, screwdrivers, pliers, hammer, etc., is easy and takes very little time. Of course, in the event that the kit is really high-quality, made on modern equipment, and all the details are precisely adjusted to one another.
Such kits for the construction of a metal garage must be accompanied detailed instructions assembly, the responsible manufacturer guarantees the quality and fit of its product. The convenience also lies in the fact that you can "personalize" the order, that is, give the manufacturer the exact dimensions that correspond to the site allocated for construction and the needs of the owner. On the websites of some companies that are engaged in the manufacture of such metal products, often there are special built-in calculators - just enter the dimensions - and the best design option will be offered.
Video: assembling a ready-made Zhiguli garage kit
It would seem - here it is, the solution to the problem! But that's only if look at current prices, then the desire to purchase such a garage may immediately disappear. It’s great luck if you manage to find an option for thousands for 70 ÷ 80. As a rule, a standard-sized garage in the basic configuration can cost no less than a used domestic car, “going wild” at a price of a hundred thousand. It is clear that not every average car owner will be able to afford such an acquisition.
"Garage calculator" on the website of one of the manufacturers B. You can, of course, go the other way: look for ads for the sale of used metal prefabricated garages – they are found in fairly large numbers. The price here, of course, is already lower, but it can also be considerable, sometimes reaching up to 40 ÷ 50 thousand rubles. But, besides this, some other “surprises” can await the buyer:
The acquisition of a metal garage that has already served a considerable period of time for its installation in a new place is a very risky business. - Usually there is the wording “second-hand metal collapsible garage without a place”, and the new owner is most often also responsible for disassembling and removing all metal structures. But disassembling is not so easy - over several decades of operation, fasteners can rust very much, and if you use the "power method" or cutting, then there is a high risk of deforming the parts.
- The next thing is that metal parts have probably already received a certain deformation simply “from time to time”, since internal stresses and so-called "metal fatigue". This means that you can already forget about the exact fit between them - for sure, a lot of problems will arise during assembly. This will certainly affect the overall strength of the newly assembled structure.
“And finally, statistics show that fraudulent schemes are often used in this market segment, when attackers sell an old garage for which they do not have ownership rights.
Thus, it is necessary to think over all the little things very well before acquiring an old collapsible garage.
V. Finally, we come to the option completely. Here, everything will depend on the capabilities and abilities of the owner. He himself is free to choose and purchase at a reasonable price the material for the construction of the frame. It is possible that some parts can be made from "old stocks" left after the construction of a house or cottage.
A metal garage can be completely built independently - from "A" to "Z" It is possible to vary with the material for wall and roof sheathing. If the garage will be under almost constant supervision, then it is quite possible to limit ourselves to metal corrugated board. In the case when a more reliable structure is needed, I use a rolled metal sheet 2 ÷ 3 mm, which, of course, is already much more expensive.
It is also important that the owner himself plans the configuration of the garage, its dimensions along the perimeter, height, type of roof - all this allows you to accurately “adjust” your project to the available financial possibilities. If a factory garage kit is purchased all at once, then nothing prevents a gradual accumulation of the necessary materials in order to start construction later. It is possible to independently determine the construction technology - whether this structure will be assembled with threaded connections, or is it better to use welding if you have the appropriate skills and equipment.
In short, why not try to do everything yourself? Yes, it is certainly more difficult, but with due diligence, everything should work out.
Base for a metal garage
The place for the garage, for sure, has already been determined, but it requires appropriate preparation.
Firstly, it is necessary to markup, which means to decide on the exact dimensions of the future building. It all depends on whether the garage is considered as a narrow cramped box that only allows you to drive the car and open the side door, or whether elements of the “garage interior” will be provided there - a workbench, shelving or a cabinet for spare parts and tools, etc. the owners, of course, will choose the second option, and in this case, the dimensions of 6 × 4 meters seem to be optimal.
The height of the gate is from 1.8 to 2 m, taking into account the growth of the owner, in order to exclude head injury.
The structure must be installed on a level and solid base. The best solution would be to build a special foundation. Large loads from the garage itself are not expected, that is, strong deepening is not required.
- Very often, preference is given to a strip foundation. It will be enough to deepen the tape into the ground by 200 ÷ 300 mm, the height of the base and the width of the foundation are also about 200 mm. This option is convenient because after the construction of the garage inside, you can additionally arrange an inspection hole or even a cellar, and then lay any type of garage floor.
It makes no sense to consider with all the nuances in this article - all this is much more detailed and more understandable in a special publication of the portal.
- Another commonly used option is the so-called floating or slab foundation. In this case, the filled monolithic slab becomes not only the basis for garage construction, but also a subfloor, on which, in principle, it is already possible to drive a car.
Whatever type of concrete foundation nor used, it must be carefully aligned horizontally - this will greatly facilitate the further assembly of the garage. It is recommended to fill the tape or slab once, within one day, in order to achieve the required solidity.
A very important issue is the early installation and immuring of embedded parts in concrete. These can be reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm, protruding 150 ÷ 200 mm above the foundation, or special embedded anchors with a threaded top are used. The lower belt (strapping) of the garage frame will be attached to these parts by welding or threaded connection. Thus, they must be installed and very accurately positioned at least at the corners of the structure, and if necessary, additionally along the line of the walls.
- Sometimes a metal garage is placed without a foundation at all, for example, on an existing paved or concreted area. In this case, the fastening of the strapping belt can be carried out with drop-in anchors.
- Another option is when the garage is not attached to the surface at all. So, some craftsmen install their design on wide skids made of a pipe with a diameter of more than 100 mm. On both sides on the skids, bends are made from a short piece of pipe, installed and welded at an angle, or from a branch of the appropriate diameter. Such a garage can be placed on any solid platform, for example, on a layer of filled and compacted gravel. True, inside you will additionally have to make floors from a thick board that can withstand the weight of the car. And besides, it will be necessary to think over the entrance ramp, since the gate will rise above the ground.
garage frame
Necessary materials and tools
The key to the successful construction of a metal garage is a reliable and stable frame. The material for its manufacture can be used - they use corners, shaped rectangular pipes, and even galvanized profiles, which are usually intended for plasterboard structures.
Nevertheless, the use of profile pipes will probably be optimal - they, with a relatively small mass, have excellent bending strength indicators, and the design will turn out to be reliable. Their convenience lies in the fact that both welding and threaded connections can be used.
About the design. It is difficult to give exact recommendations here - it all depends on the size of the building, the type of roof - single-pitched or double-pitched, the cladding material and other parameters, including material capabilities.
On the Internet, it is very easy to find many diagrams and drawings that can be taken as a whole or as a basis. In this publication, the installation process of a lightweight frame made of two types of shaped pipes will be considered. It is assumed that the owner does not have welding or he - the entire assembly will be carried out on threaded connections. Thus, the necessary tools are a standard locksmith set, open-end and socket wrenches for 10 and 12, an electric drill with a 6.5 mm drill, a grinder with circles for cutting and grinding metal, a screwdriver. In a word - everything that, as a rule, is in the "home arsenal" of the owner of a country house. Too much physical effort will not be required, so the work can be done alone, but it is still better to enlist an assistant, since the installation of rather long and bulky parts is to be done.
The diagram of the structure of the garage frame is shown in the figure:
The red lines show the main bearing parts. For them, a pipe profile 50 × 25 mm was used. Blue color- four frames reinforcing the roof structure. The material is the same, 50 × 25 mm.
Green color - additional support posts and crossbars. For them, you can purchase a pipe 40 × 20 mm. Puffs diagonally standing at the corners of the side walls are made from the same pipes - shown by brown lines. This is an additional element. which may or may not be used.
Total for the frame you will need:
Pipe sections 50 × 25 mm:
- 6 m - 8 pcs. (4 pieces - horizontal crossbars of the side walls);
- 4 m - 7 pcs. (4 pcs. - crossbeams of the front and back walls, 3 pcs. - for the base of the gable rafter triangles).
- 3 m - 8 pcs. (for longitudinal sides of roof frames).
- 2 m - 12 pcs. (4 pieces - corner posts, 8 pieces - vertical posts and crossbars of double-leaf gates).
- 2.1 m - 6 pcs. (rafter legs).
- 1.9 m - 8 pcs. (for cross members of roof frames).
Pipe sections 40 × 20 mm:
- 6 m - 2 pcs. (additional lintels on the side walls).
- 4 m - 1 pc. (horizontal reinforcing bar on the rear wall).
- 2 m - 8 pcs. (reinforcing racks on the walls).
In addition, you will need M6 bolts 40 and 60 mm long with washers, nuts, grovers, etc.
In the prices of the current, 2015 year, it is quite possible to purchase such a kit at a metal depot for 10 ÷ 12 thousand rubles.
If everything is prepared, you can start assembling the frame.
Carrying out installation work
| Illustration | Description of the technological operation |
|---|---|
 | All cut to size delivered to the place of assembly of the frame. |
 | You can immediately check the completeness, we will lay out the pipes on the site in accordance with the assembly drawing. If there are no fears that they can be kidnapped, then it will be convenient to tai and leave them laid out in their places - it will take less time later to select the necessary parts. |
 | The assembly of the side walls begins. The crossbars, upper and lower, are attached to the racks (blue arrow). Assembly is carried out using 6×60 bolts. |
 | The bolt is tightened at the beginning, until the complete installation of the frame, until one nut. Then, when the frame is assembled and carefully aligned in the corners, it will be possible to make a final tightening with the installation of locknuts. |
 | After fixing the upper and lower crossbars to the racks, a reinforcing jumper is placed in the center between them. There is a caveat - it is impossible to insert a washer and a nut into the pipe, so you have to use another method. You can go through both profiles and take a longer bolt. Another option is to use a metal roofing screw. In this case, it is advisable to make a through hole only in the upper wall of the upper profile. In the lower wall (shown by the arrow), as well as on the second profile, a hole is made either of a smaller diameter, or only outlined (the wall is weakened for a good and reliable passage of the self-tapping screw). The central vertical support post is installed in the same way, in the center of the structure. |
 | When both sides are ready (blue arrow), they are connected by horizontal jumpers (red arrow). This is how a general, already three-dimensional structure is formed. |
 | In general terms, the shape of the garage frame is given. It's obviously not strong enough for him. Be sure to align the right angles on each side. The building level in this matter is not an assistant to us - there is no guarantee that there is a strictly horizontal base below. The best option is to measure and compare the diagonals - they should be the same in length. You can fix the rectangle by setting inclined puffs (shown by arrows). |
 | Close-up puff. Their installation, of course, will increase the overall strength of the structure, but it will also require additional details - they, for example, do not appear in the list of blanks above. |
 | It is also possible to give rigidity to the frame rectangles with the help of scarves cut from metal 2 mm thick. They can be brought into the connecting node by slightly loosening the screw fastening. Then the tightening is performed, the diagonals are aligned, two holes are drilled in the scarf on each side, and it is finally attached to the structure, securely fixing the angle. |
 | We proceed to the assembly of triangle trusses, which will create rafter pairs and original floor beams. Here, the installation of parts overlaid is not very convenient, since difficulties will arise during the further sheathing of the gables with metal. It is better to make a cutout on one of the rafter legs in the ridge part, and then insert one into the other, finally fixing it with a bolt or a curly metal plate. |
 | In the same way, they act at the junction of the rafter leg with a horizontal beam. Appropriate cuts are made with a grinder (shown by an arrow), and then the parts are driven into another and fixed with a bolt or self-tapping screw. |
 | After these triangles are assembled, they are installed and bolted to the horizontal lintels of the front and rear walls. The picture clearly shows the mutual mating of the parts - the rafter leg and the beam inserted into each other. |
 | The same connecting node from a different angle - top view. Then the same structure is attached in the middle of the longitudinal side walls of the frame. The only difference is that it is possible to mount the triangle according to a simplified scheme, overlaid - in this place it does not really matter. |
 | You can immediately start preparing for the gate device. To do this, hinges are mounted to the side posts of the frame itself on its front side. A vertical post of the gate leaf is attached to their counterpart half. |
 | The design itself garage doors may be different. In this case, the simplest scheme is shown - with two symmetrical wings, which are rectangular frames from the same profile pipe. Then, when facing with a metal sheet or wood and during insulation, they can be reinforced with puffs or jumpers. |
 | It remains to complete the construction of the roof. For this, four frames are being prepared that will stand between the rafter legs on both slopes. In order for all sides of the frames to be in the same plane (this is necessary for a snug fit of the roof structure), the connection of the parts is not made into an overlay, but “in a quarter”, that is, grooves are first outlined and cut out ... |
 | ... and then the parts are connected and fixed with a bolt. |
 | The assembled frames (shown by the arrow) are inserted between the existing trusses and bolted to the rafter legs. In total, four similar frames are to be assembled and installed. |
 | This is how the connecting node in the ridge part of the garage gable will look like in the end. |
 | In fact, the assembly of the frame is completed. True, it is worth making one more clarification - the photograph shows the assembled structure, which then nevertheless underwent minor changes. We are again talking about oblique puffs. The operation of such a frame showed that too long (3 meters and even 4 - behind) horizontal spans are not a very good solution. Therefore, in the final version, additional vertical posts were used, two on each side and on the back side. This option is shown in the above drawing. |
If the garage will be placed on the foundation, then the frame is knitted in a convenient way with embedded anchors or pins. At the same time, do not forget that between the concrete of the foundation and metal structure waterproofing must be laid - several layers of roofing material. Then it remains only to finally tighten and fix all connections with lock nuts, process all the details anti-corrosion soil - and you can move on to wall cladding.
Wall and roof cladding
Actually, the most difficult stage of construction is already behind. If a high-quality frame is ready, then it will not be difficult to carry out the outer wall cladding and lay the roof.
Walls can be mounted both on (but only when using a rolled metal sheet) and on threaded connections. You can use bolts by drilling through holes for them in vertical and horizontal parts, and then tightening the fasteners from the inside. When corrugated board sheathing is installed, it is quite acceptable and special self-tapping screws for him. True, at the same time, one should not forget that it will be easy for an attacker to dismantle such a mount without opening the garage door, so this option is used with a certain degree of caution. Often, rivets are used to fasten sheets of corrugated board.
The cut sheets are driven as close as possible to each other (if sheet metal with a thickness of 2 mm or more is used), or they are overlapped, with mandatory fixation, including along the overlap line. When using corrugated board, the task is simplified - there the sheets simply overlap in one wave, thereby aligning vertically.
In the version of the frame that was discussed in the article, it will also probably require installation on the outside of the vertical racks wooden slats(boards) - so that all the details come out on the same plane. Rails can be attached to profile pipes self-tapping screws.
The frame structure of the roof allows any type of wooden lathing (solid or with a certain pitch) to be made on it for fastening the roofing material. You can do it even easier - fasten sheets of corrugated board directly to metal parts. True, in our case they are spaced far enough, and the crate still does not hurt. Moreover, it will be necessary if, for example, slate flooring or a soft roof is planned.
When installing the roofing, one should not forget about the cornice overhang, at least by 150 ÷ 200 mm - this will to some extent protect the walls from direct rain. Even better, if on both sides to provide for the installation of gutters. Since in the considered version the roof is gable, a ridge profile will also be needed, covering the junction of the two halves of the roof.
Practice shows that the entire garage on a metal frame (which was described in the article), completely covered with inexpensive corrugated board, will cost about 25 thousand rubles. This cost, of course, does not include the "zero cycle" and warming measures. But after all, when purchasing an expensive prefabricated garage, the buyer also pays only for a metal box.
Insulation of a metal garage
In fact, after carrying out the wall cladding and installation of the roof, hanging the gate with the installation of locks, the work on assembling a metal garage can be considered almost complete. If the entrance is equipped, if necessary, and a reliable one is laid (there is a special publication about this on the portal), then you can safely drive a car into it
However, a caring owner is not too lazy take action in order to protect your four-wheeled pet as much as possible from the winter cold or from metal walls heated in the summer in the sun. In short, it is advisable to immediately address the issues of thermal insulation of the garage.
Before carrying out the insulation, it is imperative to revise the surface of the metal walls from the inside. If it's bare metal, then it is necessary to treat it with anti-corrosion primer.
As a heater, ordinary polystyrene foam blocks are often used, with a thickness of about 50 mm. They are placed between the racks of the frame, and the foam can be fixed with glue directly to the surface of the walls. To insulate the flow, you can make a light "filing" of the beams to the existing transverse beams, supplementing it with a rough surface (top) of second-rate boards. It will also be easy to lay blocks of insulation between the bars of such a ceiling frame.
Insulation with polystyrene foam in a garage is a rather risky decision - Expanded polystyrene, of course, has high thermal insulation qualities, is cheap and very convenient to use. But he also has such qualities that call into question the expediency of its use in the garage. Firstly, it is not a non-combustible material, and the proximity to flammable liquids in itself will pose a certain threat. In the event of a fire, such a heater will become one of the centers. And the second is the chemical instability of the material to many technical liquids (for example, organic solvents), which are often used in garages, especially if a mini-workshop is also equipped here. And the probability of such chemicals getting on the walls, although small, is still there. And the last - with strong heating (for example, from red-hotin the sun of metal walls) polystyrene foam low quality may give off a strong odor. It will be very unpleasant if the interior of the car is saturated with this smell.
Mineral wool is the best option in the triad "safety - quality - price" - In terms of practicality and safety, mineral wool will be the undisputed leader in these conditions. ITS rolls (mats) are rolled out between the racks of the frame, or a wooden crate is specially mounted on the walls inside for insulation. The step of the guides and their thickness should ideally correspond to the width and thickness of the mineral wool roll. It will be easy to temporarily fix the insulation by pulling a nylon cord between adjacent guides in a zigzag manner.
- The most reliable solution would be spraying on inner surface liquid garage walls. It quickly gains volumetric shape and solidifies in a continuous layer, leaving no "cold bridges". There is only one drawback to this approach to insulation - it is impossible to carry it out on your own, without special equipment and work skills, and services for such thermal insulation are very expensive.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Video: garage insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam
The insulated surface of the walls and the ceiling is closed finishing. Most often, either plywood is used for this, or, much better, sheets. After such a cladding, you can proceed to the arrangement of garage furniture, the installation of lamps (if any), a canopy of shelves or cabinets, etc.
The issues of garage insulation are discussed in great detail in a separate publication of the portal. True, she is more devoted, but in the case of a frame metal garage, the technology is absolutely the same.
That's all, it remains to bring the final gloss, if necessary - paint the garage outside with resistant atmospheric paint for metal - and you can "celebrate housewarming"!
Video: a simple version of a light metal garage or barn
If you carefully analyze the number of available offers for the purchase or sale of garages, you can see that in most cases it is collapsible structures that are bought and sold. Stationary garage options are usually built in a capital design, next to the house or in close proximity to housing. A collapsible garage is most often purchased as a temporary hut, for example, to a summer cottage, or in order to stake out a good plot in the immediate vicinity, followed by the design of the site and construction capital building. Today, collapsible garages are sold and bought no worse than the cars themselves.
Which design option for a collapsible garage to choose
The main difference between the collapsible version and all other types of structures is the use of the so-called hardware fasteners for assembly, in other words, a stud-nut connection or bolt nut. Perhaps this is not the most good option fasteners, but, unlike self-tapping screws or a welding joint, individual components and parts of the garage can be assembled and disassembled more than a dozen times.
All collapsible schemes are divided into four types:
Of all the listed types, the plastic version falls under the definition of "collapsible" most of all. The manufacturer has thought through the design details and assembly methods to the smallest detail. The purchased set of a collapsible garage can be installed and mounted even by a teenager or an adult who does not have any experience in the construction of this kind of structures.
For your information! The cost of a garage room made of collapsible plastic in our country clearly does not correspond to the durability and strength of the structure declared by the manufacturer, so such collapsible schemes have not won mass popularity among motorists.
What is worth disassembling and assembling a garage with your own hands, the secrets of collapsible structures
The main rule of collapsible structures is that if one person has assembled, the second can always disassemble. The device of collapsible garages practically does not differ from non-collapsible systems, the rules for installation and assembly work are approximately the same. The sequence of assembly and dismantling of the structure must be indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions attached to the passport or assembly drawing.
Often, experienced motorists with considerable experience in car repair neglect the manufacturer's recommendations and assemble or dismantle the collapsible frame at their discretion. And absolutely in vain.
Advice! The manufacturer indicates the sequence of assembly and disassembly work specifically in such a way as to avoid deformation of long garage structures and make the process safe.
For example, collapsible metal garages can be made in two types: in the form large-panel or stacked construction. The latter type will require the ability to carefully and accurately read the drawing, since it will be necessary to assemble the frame, roof and install a large number of bolted connections, without confusing the racks and load-bearing elements with the one indicated on the drawing.
The second type is much easier to assemble. In fact, this version of a collapsible garage consists of several main large-sized units - three walls, a ceiling, a gate and a roof. It is impossible to confuse, but to assemble the structure with your own hands, you will need a good eye and skill, since the slightest gust of wind during installation can bend a long wall panel with a propeller or even injure a person.
Even more stressful in installation is a collapsible concrete garage. The design of such a building practically does not differ from any buildings, but there is one feature. The connection of concrete slabs into the frame of the building is carried out using steel angles welded to the iron frame of the reinforcement. After arranging the foundation, you will need to use a crane to install the wall slab in an exactly vertical position and get the mounting holes of the corner onto the anchor bolts or threaded rods. Considering the fact that the weight reinforced concrete slabs and the beams are very large, violation of the rules and assembly order can lead to the destruction of the frame.
How to make a collapsible garage with your own hands
The easiest way is to make a collapsible garage from rolled metal and sheet iron. The technology for the construction of such structures has been worked out over the past 50 years of the existence of the domestic automobile industry. You can use the typical scheme of a metal garage with a gable roof, but use two-point bolting instead of welding.
We assemble the frame of a collapsible garage
Unlike the standard design of a welded metal garage, as an option, several improvements can be made to the standard scheme to simplify the assembly and disassembly of the garage structure:
- Experts recommend making wall frames according to a tent pattern. Instead of individually assembling individual wall frames, the easiest way is to make a frame for the base of the garage with round nests - couplings, into which pipes of the vertical racks of the frame will be installed. To complete the assembly of the walls, it will be necessary to simply fix the upper part of the frame on the installed racks;
- Considering the fact that the rigidity of the welded joint of two metal beams or tubular racks is about twice as high as the bolted one, in order to provide the necessary strength of the frame, it will be necessary to use a large number of additional spacers and gussets made of thick metal;
- Ceiling elements are fastened, the frame of the future roof is mounted on the assembled walls. The tubular frame of a collapsible garage can be sheathed with sheet metal.
All bolted connections during the assembly process must be installed so that the fastener nut is inside the garage, and it is recommended to grind the outer part of the connection - the bolt head with a grinder to a rounded shape. Thus, the possibility of unwinding the connection and removing the garage cladding sheet is eliminated.
To install the gate on the front wall of the garage, you will need to install additional vertical posts, on which hinges-canopies will be welded or a leaf lifting mechanism will be installed.
Advice! The collapsible garage frame can be installed on metal skids. Often, the assembly of the structure has to be carried out at a distance from the place where it is planned to be installed; this technique will facilitate the movement of the finished garage to the prepared site.
The frame of the garage must be fixed to the ground or a mini-foundation. The easiest way to fix the steel base is with four screw anchors screwed into the soil to a depth of at least 50-60 cm. The head of each will need to be welded to the base of the building.
Features of insulation and decoration of the building
The most troublesome part of working with a collapsible garage has always been the process of applying insulation. Unlike a conventional room, in a collapsible scheme, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of dismantling the structure without significant damage to the heat-insulating layer. In the very simple version the inner surface of the steel sheets is simply blown out with polyurethane foam, after which the insulation layer is covered with a lining of plastic panels or wooden lining.
When dismantling the structure, the lining is removed, and the layer of hardened foam is carefully cut with a knife along the border of the steel sheets. Further, in the assembly process, it remains to restore the position of the sheets with insulation on the frame; in case of cracks along the cut line, they can be sealed with mounting foam.
In some cases, the owners of collapsible garages prefer to use expanded polystyrene plates glued to a wooden crate instead of polyurethane foam. This method allows you to effectively insulate the room, but it is much more expensive.
The average cost of manufacturing a metal collapsible structure will be about 800-900 dollars, which is comparable to the cost of used ear garages of a similar type sold on the market.
In this article we will talk about how to make a metal garage with your own hands. This type of garage building is common, but not everyone is engaged in its manufacture from scratch. Such a garage can be assembled with the help of welding, bolts with nuts (which will be much cheaper), and even with the help of rivets that are a little forgotten in our time.
Building foundation
A metal garage is a lightweight structure, so most often the foundation is made only along its perimeter, deepening by 25 cm (with the same width parameters). But sometimes a solid concrete slab reinforced with a metal mesh is poured under the entire garage, which will become both the foundation and the floor, if there is no desire to make a flat concrete floor over the screed with a screed. Sometimes ready-made ones are placed under the base concrete floors. This method will not work if it is planned to make an inspection hole in the garage for car repair. The only question is the price. You can, of course, use a screw frame, and then the foundation is not needed. However, in this case, the strength of the garage will have to be forgotten, although from a financial point of view, such a solution will be advantageous.
If you do not save, then you need to follow certain rules:
- the upper part of the foundation (concrete slab) must be made about 20 cm above ground level so that water does not flow when it rains;
- the surface of the base must be built even, perfectly horizontal;
- at all four corners of the foundation, it is necessary to concrete reinforcing bars, to which it will then be welded metal carcass garage.
If the surface on which you want to build a garage is uneven, then it is advisable to add a little gravel to level it (in the case when you decide to put the structure on a finished floor slab).
It is better to fill the foundation immediately and entirely to get a monolith. While creating strip foundation you don't need too much concrete, so you can use a concrete mixer and make concrete near the garage construction site.
Note! The standard dimensions of a garage in which one car is placed are 3.5 by 6 m. But, if it is planned to insulate the garage, then the above parameters of the garage must be increased by 20 cm.
When the foundation is ready, it is necessary to put waterproofing on it - roofing material. It is best to cover the joints of pieces of roofing material bituminous mastic. Then, on top of the base and waterproofing, it would be useful to make a floor - a concrete screed.
frame
The frame for building a garage is usually welded from a metal corner of a large section, as a result of which the structure becomes several times stronger. The frame is best assembled immediately at the site of the future installation of a metal garage.
The assembly sequence of the metal base for the garage is as follows:
- First weld the bottom frame. It must be attached to the rods rising from the concrete at the corners of the foundation so that the pieces of reinforcement remain inside the garage.
- Then vertical supports are welded in the corners.
- In front of the frame, two supports should be installed and fixed on the sides of the future garage. They will later become the "door jambs" of the gate.
- The supports fixed in the upper part are connected on top with a frame.
- After that, it is necessary to make the supporting elements of the roof. If it is shed, then the supports of the facade (the front of the garage) should be brought out above the other supports so that the slope of the "ceiling" is towards the rear wall of the structure. If the roof is planned to be gable, then you will have to weld the triangular structures of the rafters and attach them by welding, bolts or rivets to the upper frame of the garage.
- Intermediate supports at the walls are welded with the same gap, which will increase the strength of the entire structure.
Note! Special attention must be paid to the fact that the size of the gap depends on the width of the sheet of metal welded to it, as part of the garage wall. But if you fix the steel sheets overlapping, one on top of the other, then the gap between the supports will have to be made 5 cm less than the width of the sheet itself.
Garage wall construction
To the base assembled from the corner, attach by welding, fasten with bolts and nuts, or use rivets to the outer skin, which is metal walls. It can be made from sheet steel, as well as from a profiled sheet. Steel for the outer skin of an already finished frame of a metal garage is suitable both galvanized (protected from corrosion by a layer of zinc) and ordinary. The thickness of the metal used for the construction of walls should not be less than 1.2–1.5 mm.
Note! On the roof, the sheets are attached from the overhangs to the ridge so that the top sheets overlap the bottom sheets by 15 or 20 centimeters.
Garage doors are best made double-leaf, swinging open. Such gates are very convenient and practical. They can easily be welded near the installation site of the garage. First, weld the frame of the canvas for each sash, and then weld or bolt it to it, which requires drilling holes in the frame, metal sheets. Sheets for the gate should be taken thick, not less than 4 mm. It is desirable to fix the gate on internal hinges, this is one of the basic rules of anti-burglary. The gates of a metal garage must be insulated, as well as its walls.
Warming
If the metal garage is not insulated, then during changes in weather conditions, condensation will appear on its walls. It will be easier to insulate a metal garage with expanded polystyrene plates (a type of foam plastic whose trade name is styrofoam). Glue the plates from the inside to the metal sheathing of the garage between the frame posts.
You need to pay attention to the fact that the big disadvantage of expanded polystyrene is its good combustibility and flammability. And the garage is unnecessarily a fire hazard.
Therefore, for the insulation of a metal garage, it is best to use non-combustible heat-insulating materials. Suitable mineral wool (glass wool) in the form of rigid mats. It will need to be sewn up from the inside of the garage with sheets of special material (MDF, OSB, LDF, chipboard).
Garage painting
Outside, you can paint a metal garage with alkyd paint for metal. It is ideal for application to galvanized surfaces, it sets quickly. The disadvantage of this paint is only that it has an increased flammability. It is also recommended to use acrylic paint for metal for exterior painting. It protects the metal well from corrosion, is distinguished by its durability, practically does not fade and does not crack. And acrylic paint is non-toxic and non-flammable, which is its advantage over alkyd paint.
But short-lived oil paint for metal, you can paint the garage from the inside (if it is not insulated), since it is not very suitable for covering the external walls of structures.
If you wish, then the walls of a metal garage (or better, a gate) can be decorated on the outside with inscriptions or plain drawings made using a regular cardboard stencil and all the same acrylic paint for metal.
Castle selection
The lock should be chosen strong, massive, made of metal with a width of at least 3-4 mm. A padlock is categorically not recommended, as burglars open a gate with such a lock in a few minutes.
Note! Best Options locks for a metal garage - mortise and invoice. The padlock should be fastened in such a way that the places where the lock is fastened are not visible from the outside of the gate.
To prevent burglars from drilling out the bolts that secure the lock to the gate, the lock must be welded on metal corners. This will increase the burglary resistance of a metal garage. Of course, it is advisable to install a video surveillance camera on the gate next to the castle, so that later you can transfer the footage with the burglars to the relevant authorities, or simply put an alarm on the garage, but all this is too expensive. And for a solid lock, the owner of the garage can fork out with almost any financial opportunity.
View a selection of photos of metal garages.
Photo
Video
Watch a detailed video on assembling a metal garage:
The best place to keep a car is considered to be a stone or brick garage, but the cost of such structures, even when erected on their own, is extremely high. For car owners who want to save money, the best option is to assemble a metal garage with their own hands. With proper assembly and insulation, such a design can be used all year round.
Types of metal garages
Metal garages are in great demand among car owners, but it can be difficult to deal with the variety of goods on offer. The designs of most garages are identical, their main differences are the place of production and the period of operation before sale.
Note! When buying a garage, ask the seller for a guarantee and a production license, if you are entering into a deal for the purchase of a used product, check the documents for ownership and receipts for the purchase.
Factory kits
2-3 people can build a prefabricated metal garage using only a basic set of tools (hammer, wrenches, etc.). For a quality product, all fasteners and plug-in parts of the structure are easy to assemble and do not require fitting and attracting additional equipment.
Many companies involved in such production offer delivery of the structure to the site or pickup. A significant disadvantage of buying such a garage is the high price. In addition to basic, ready-made kits, some companies offer production according to individual sizes, taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe site, the dimensions of the car, etc.
Used prefabricated metal garage
Sites for the sale and exchange of used goods, you can find both factory and alternative collapsible designs. The advantage of such a product is its low cost (about 2-3 times lower than new factory models). However, before buying it is worth considering some nuances. Many sellers do not disassemble and deliver the structure, and the fastening system of a used garage has a natural shrinkage, which makes it difficult to disassemble. In addition, there is a high risk of deformation constituent parts which makes assembly very difficult. You should beware of unverified sellers: many are selling other people's garages.
DIY garage
The cheapest, but time-consuming option is to build a metal garage on your own from the foundation to the roof. When building such a structure, you can significantly save on materials. In addition, the necessary tools can be accumulated gradually, and then proceed to construction.
How to choose a foundation for a garage
Often, collapsible structures are operated without a foundation, and they are installed directly on the ground or on a bulk cushion. However, such a technique can significantly harm the car: moisture coming from the ground will contribute to corrosion of both the garage and the car itself.
If you plan to make your metal garage not temporary, but a permanent home for a car, then you cannot do without a foundation. The construction of a prefabricated garage begins with the choice of the type of foundation, the following types of structures are suitable for this purpose:
- Tape. This type of construction is optimal in terms of price-quality ratio. The advantages of the strip foundation include ease of construction and low cost of work. But it is worth remembering that it is possible to carry out work on the construction of such a structure only in the warm season.
- Monolithic. Like a strip foundation, this type of foundation is made of concrete. But monolithic structures require high costs and preparatory measures.
- Floating foundation (slab). If after the construction of the house remained concrete plates or you have the opportunity to buy a used kit, then such a design will not require large expenses. The slab foundation is made of slabs, which are fastened with cement mortar, as a result, a monolithic structure is obtained.
Most often, car owners choose a foundation for a tape-type metal garage. Detailed Process the construction of a strip foundation, what mistakes are often made during its construction, as well as the nuances of concrete structures, you can see in this video:
Regardless of what type of foundation was chosen for the garage, soil preparation is carried out. To do this, remove the top grass layer of the soil, if this is not done, during further operation, the roots of the plants will rot, and the foundation will sag and swell.
Choosing a site for an important part of the construction. Flat, dry areas are best suited for these purposes. If there are wetlands nearby or the level is high ground water, then you will have to take care of the drainage system to remove excess moisture from the site.
Creating a garage design
For self construction garage you need the following set of tools and materials:
- apparatus for welding;
- Bulgarian;
- metal sheets from 2 mm;
- metal corner.
Before construction, it is necessary to make a drawing of the future garage. For a room where only car parking is planned, standard sizes are considered 3.3 by 5.5 meters. If the garage will serve as a place for repair and storage of tools, then the area will be increased by another 1.5-2.5 meters. The height of the garage directly depends on the height of the owner and the brand of car. If in the future it is planned to insulate the garage with a dense insulation (polystyrene, mineral wool), then 15-20 cm are added to the area along each wall.
Metal frames, sheets and other parts are brought to the construction site in disassembled form, you can build the structure on your own in a day.
Construction begins with welding the lower frame, it is welded to the reinforcement outlets from the foundation, so that the ends of the reinforcement are inside the building. Then they begin to fasten the vertical corner parts of the frame, they will become supports for the walls. Two vertical racks are welded on the front wall of the room, corresponding to the height of future swing gate. All vertical posts are welded at the top with a connecting frame. The design can be both straight and pitched.
For pitched roof vertical racks of the entrance wall should be 20-30 cm higher, depending on the angle of the slope and the size of the structure. When erecting a gable structure, weld truss system to the top frame.
Intermediate vertical and horizontal racks are welded to the upper frame and the base of the structure. The more weight metal sheets, the smaller the step between structural elements.
Important! When welding sheets of metal with an overlap, the distance between the intermediate posts of the structure is made 5-7 cm less than the width of the metal sheets.
When the frame is ready, wall sheets are bolted or welded to it. The recommended metal thickness is from 2 mm, the minimum is 1.2 mm. After the walls, they proceed to the roof, the sheets are welded from the main frame to the ridge, or from the back wall to the facade (in the case of a pitched roof). Sheets on the roof are welded with an overlap of 100-150 mm, so that the top ones go onto the bottom ones.
gate welding
Metal garage doors are created in the same way as the frame. First, a frame is welded from the corners so that the gate enters the opening, they are made 2-3 mm smaller. Sheet sheathing is welded on top. Standard have two doors on hinges. Such fasteners are convenient in that the gate will be easily opened and closed. Bearings are often attached to the hinges for optimal rotation of the swing gate leaves.
When assembling the gate, the place for the gate is welded in advance from the same corners. When calculating and installing, it is important to consider in which direction the gate will open. A place for the castle is cut out immediately. The gate is attached to hinges or other fasteners.
Garage insulation
Many car owners do not know how to insulate a metal garage, the main difficulties arise when choosing a heater. Styrofoam is often used to insulate a garage, but the material has a significant drawback - it is highly flammable. V last years mineral wool is often used for these purposes. The material is made from organic compounds, which makes it safe for humans, and besides, it does not ignite.
Insulation of a metal garage with mineral wool can be done independently. First, a frame for the walls and ceiling is made of wood or metal profiles in increments of 50-60 cm. Then, insulation boards are laid inside the resulting cells, starting from the bottom. The second layer of mineral wool is laid on top in a checkerboard pattern, closing the joints of the previous plates. From above, the insulation is sheathed with wood or drywall.
Important! When using a tree for a crate under a heater, it is treated with flame retardants.
The swing gates of the garage are insulated with foam plastic with a thickness of 2 cm, for this they use material treated from fires. The foam is fixed in 2 layers in a checkerboard pattern on a special glue.
The final stage of construction is painting the metal garage. To do this, use paints with anti-corrosion substances that comply with fire safety standards.
Conclusion
Building a metal garage will not only help make room for your car, but will also give excellent building practice. A self-built garage will be a safe home for your car. The main thing that you should not be afraid of when building is to try something new and learn from your own mistakes.
Before buying a car, the future owner should consider in advance where it will be stored.
The easiest way in this case is to make and install a metal garage with your own hands, for this you only need construction material and building plans.
Device
Structurally, metal garages consist of the following elements:
The most important system is the foundation, because it is on it that the pressure of the entire building will be exerted. The support should normally be at least 1 meter thick and 20 centimeters wide (with a tape type), but the sole depends on the insulation and the choice of metal for the walls. Basically, a monolithic carrier system is installed under garages. To save cement mortar, you can use any means at hand: construction waste, rubble, FBS blocks, foam blocks, etc.
Photo: assembling a metal garage with your own hands Separately, the need for thermal insulation is stipulated. Insulation of metal garages from corrugated board is almost always a mandatory task, since a car in the cold season will always be under the influence of natural temperature changes. These factors negatively affect its condition and service life.
Video: do-it-yourself metal garage
Used as a heater:
- Mineral wool. The easiest and cheapest way, but this material is known for its qualities to absorb water. Therefore, to extend the durability of the walls and protect them from corrosion, it is recommended to additionally apply a waterproof film;
- Penoizol. Very expensive, but practical option for insulation. The foam is light, therefore it is often used for thermal insulation of utility rooms built on a columnar or strip shallow foundation;
- Styrofoam. Unlike mineral wool, it does not absorb water, but repels it. Like penoizol, it is quite light, but at the same time affordable.
Arrangement of the carrier system
Initially, the position of the garage on the site is calculated on the drawings. Please note that it is undesirable to have various communication pipes or wires near it; when excavating trenches, water supply, sewer or electrical networks can be damaged.
Photo: monolithic foundation Before starting work, one point is selected from which the marking will be carried out. It could be a tree, a fence, or a house. The location of the trenches is marked, and holes are dug for pouring. It is very important to monitor the evenness of the corners, otherwise the bearing capacity of the system will be significantly weakened.
Instructions on how to install the foundation for a metal garage with your own hands:
- The base size is selected. The dimensions of the garage are on average 6 meters by 3.5, but the sole of the support should exceed them by 20–30 centimeters;
- Sand and gravel are poured into the bottom of the trench to create a sand cushion. Its height is on average 10–20 centimeters, depending on the total depth of the base;
- The foundation for a metal garage is necessarily reinforced with metal bars. The bundle is installed in each corner, while keeping in mind that the side walls will be installed along the reinforcing sections protruding from the foundation. They must not only be welded to a common reinforcing system, and carefully concreted;
- After that, you can start filling. In order to save the solution, many craftsmen first fill the pit with construction waste, and then fill it with a solution. When pouring, be sure to use a level, it is necessary that the surface of the support is exactly horizontal;
- Try to calculate the work in such a way that you can fill the foundation in one go. This will provide maximum rigidity, since the base will represent a single system.
The solution hardens on average a week, but it depends on the climate of the region and the characteristics of the soil (in humid areas, this period can be delayed for up to two weeks).
Assembly
You can build a collapsible metal garage both from ready-made elements and from do-it-yourself parts. Consider the option of installing a finished building.
Step-by-step instruction how to raise a metal prefabricated garage with your own hands:
- The bottom frame is welded first. The frame from below is presented in the form of separate reinforcing pieces. They need to be welded to the protruding parts of the reinforcement from the foundation and connected to each other;
- After that, vertical racks are installed in the corners. They are made of a durable metal alloy, which provides maximum rigidity of the side faces;
- In parallel, on the front of the garage (where the entrance is planned), two posts for the gate need to be welded. If, in addition to the gate, a door is also planned, then two sash racks must be additionally attached to the frame. In some cases, experts advise installing two more doors in the place where the workbench or rack will be installed (if it rests on the wall);
- All racks must be welded together using the upper horizontal frame. The load-bearing parts of the roof are also installed on this part of the building;
- Another stiffening beam is installed in the center of the upper frame, which will serve as an additional support for the roof. From the end parts of the frame (or from the side where the entrance will be located), you need to weld another vertical rack, on top of which the roof ridge will be located;
- Supports for sheathing are welded from the side corner of the upper frame;
- If planned gable roof, then it is recommended to install truss structures along the entire upper frame. They are distributed evenly over the area.
After the sheathing of the metal garage begins. It is necessary to fasten sheets of corrugated board with an overlap. For this, self-tapping screws are used with rubber gaskets so as not to damage the galvanized coating.
After the sheathing is completed, the insulation of the building can begin. The garage is insulated from the inside, after the completion of thermal insulation work, it is necessary to cover the material with rigid non-combustible sheets - these can be OSB, MDF or chipboard panels. Cosmetic repairs of internal and external finishes are carried out once a year. Capital (complete replacement of insulation, strengthening of the foundation - once every 5 years).
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