We make a workbench with our own hands. Do-it-yourself carpentry workbench - drawings, assembly procedure, materials used Workbench from an old table

Surely, every man in his youth at labor lessons more than once had to make a certain object made of wood, standing idle for more than one hour behind such a device.

And now, as an adult, and creating beautiful and practical woodwork, you are thinking about acquiring your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is not to spend money, it is better to spend some personal time, getting a quality one in return. workplace».

So, what is a "carpenter's workbench"? It is stable, solid (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of various products using manual and mechanized tools.

If you are seriously thinking about making a workbench, you should pay attention that there are several types of them:

Wood or metal?

First of all, before you start creating your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be made of. A wooden base would be appropriate if the intended work area does not take up much space.

Ideal for countertops laminated chipboard or pressed plywood. For a stationary sample, a combination of planed wooden boards and metal is suitable.

Advice: an old unnecessary table is also well suited for the base, or quality door made from one piece fabric.

It is undesirable to make a workbench from metal, an acceptable compromise would be a wooden lid and a frame with metal cladding.

It is best to use not one or two vices, but as many as possible. Use one to fasten without special efforts long boards, while others are suitable for attaching small parts.

Dimensions and drawing

Before we start manufacturing, it is necessary to think over its design and dimensions, purpose. For the manufacture of parts and assembly of the table, you will need to make a drawing. On it, with an accuracy of a millimeter, we indicate all the data. Further, you will often have to use the drawing in the process of manufacturing individual elements and when assembling the product.

Advice: when drawing up a drawing, be guided by the size of the countertop at 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.

Tools

What set of tools will the master need:

Of course, the list may vary depending on what material you decide to choose for the base of the workbench, and what design it will be.

reference: it is extremely important at the very beginning to determine the height of the workbench. An experienced craftsman will be able to make a device with adjustable height, the rest are recommended to focus on the distance from extreme point arm bent at the elbow to the floor.

How to do?

Manufacturing

This process takes place in several stages, the first of which is the base assembly. This is followed by the installation of countertops and the installation of all necessary equipment.

We prepare vertical supports and lintels, drill through hole in a horizontal bar. After we wind the nut with the washer on the bolt from the side of the groove. In the middle of the tabletop we install jumpers (there will be boxes between them), slats are attached to them. The workbench lid will be bolted on.

Workbench base - wooden frame(it is recommended to use soft wood for their manufacture: linden or pine), the fastenings of which must meet all the requirements of rigidity and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop in a horizontal form, you should place a jumper, and install a drawer along the entire length. They must be fixed at a safe distance from the floor (50 cm). Such a margin of space can come in handy in the future, and you can easily place small shelves or drawers at the bottom of the workbench.

Then we move on to the step countertop constructions. This can be done with several boards, but in this case they must be carefully processed, cleared of debris and sawdust. Its dimensions must exceed the width and length of the base. This solution is for your convenience. So working area can be easily cleaned. The tabletop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the workbench being created. Installation of bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, joints) located at the base.

We cover the work surface created by us with a vise. To do this, we construct a plywood gasket from the wrong side, mark with a pencil or pen where the future holes will be. We drill them, attach a vise with nuts.

When we create stops, adjust them in height, place them at a sufficiently large distance from the vise. Such care will ensure reliability, and you will be sure that the workpieces will remain on the surface without falling to the floor.

We are also building, they can be fixed on the support of the bench space.

Let's start creating guide boxes, which will subsequently serve as a repository for all tools and large items. For them, we take away the back of the workbench, we make recesses.

We nail a couple of transverse bars to the base of the tabletop, for them it is premature to leave grooves. We attach the slats to the jumpers horizontally, they will serve for the process of sliding the boxes.

Attach the table top to the base with bolts.. We make recesses with a chisel, drill the indicated places, after which the bolts will appear there. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injuries, so they are securely hidden in the countertop.

Assembly

A certain number of vices will need to be attached to the structure. Under them, openings are prepared in advance, under which they are subsequently fixed small size plywood pads.

Be careful, place the vise on the same level to prevent destruction of the workbench.

We place the attachment points, after which we can start fixing the tools. Hardware is perfect for this.

Important: The vise should never be placed close to the corners of your table, otherwise there is a risk of the tool breaking.

Supporting elements are easy to do with your own hands. To do this, simply fix the finished stops, or drill small openings of a certain size.

Attention: it is not advisable to use bolts as stops, they can damage parts, and dowels are unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as an ideal and reliable fastener. Fasten the bar to the end of the workbench.

Consider the fact that rather heavy and massive things will subsequently be placed on the countertop, such as:

• wooden clamps;
• turning equipment;
• milling element;
• drill (stationary).

Therefore, it is so important to make sure that the fasteners are reliable and to think over all the options for convenience so that you do not have to regret the location of certain devices in the future.

Finishing

The finished product can be put in order with a grinder. Thereafter, we cover the entire surface of the desktop with drying oil as a protective and primer layer for paint. So you save yourself from getting splinters, reduce the risk of injury.

Finally, screw the corners (with bolts) at the base.

It would be more correct to install such a structure in the zone of natural light, that is, by the window. Take care of additional lighting of the workplace, also do not forget that there should be sockets next to the workbench, in such a situation an extension cord can “save” you. The most comfortable pastime at the workbench will be if the table is not too high, and the light falls from the left or from above.

Photo

Making furniture is an individual process. You may well end up with something beautiful and convenient:

Useful video

The step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:

Conclusion

Appearing on the farm, he will become indispensable assistant and over time, you will see for yourself. Firstly, a do-it-yourself workbench is a significant savings Money. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you will always have a convenient table “at hand” on which you can create interesting and useful household items.

In contact with

The garage is a multifunctional space. In it, you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage, doing repair work, you need to properly equip your workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional desktop that can be used to process various materials, carry out metalwork, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can think of shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (locksmith) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For locksmith models, the countertop must necessarily be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that are on wooden surface may leave traces.

Also when processing metal parts often requires effort, the use of a sharp tool, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal worktop.

Carpentry workbenches are designed to work with wood, so they are not as durable and functional as locksmith models.

Workbench design

If the design of the desktop in the garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully consider every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the table in the garage depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the design of the table can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Bulgarian with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective devices for welding.

2. Screwdriver.

   Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

materials

Corner 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Corner 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for countertop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for countertops. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for the manufacture of drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15mm

Guides for drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: the length of the table is 220 cm, the width is 75 cm.

The first step in the manufacture of a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel corner is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. Also, this material will go to the brackets for attaching boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The elements of the countertop are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the countertop, it is required to weld a few more after 40 cm steel pipes, which will act as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power jumpers are welded between the legs, strengthening the structure.

After the base frame is ready, you can start welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. Frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is to make a frame for the countertop. Two steel corners, 2200 mm long and two more corners 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards lie inside it.

The frame from the corner is laid on the frame of pipes and welded. It turns out a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, it remains to weld the crate of the panel for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner 2200 mm long and 4 corners having a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle, for reinforcement. The toolbar is welded to the worktop.

The frame of the corners and pipes is ready. You can start strengthening the structure. Brackets are welded to the sidewalls of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to metal frame workbench.

The fourth stage is the manufacture of drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are twisted with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the details are small, then 3 boxes can be built, if large - then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can place drawers on two sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and ordinary open shelves on the second.

After the drawers are assembled, metal strips with holes need to be welded between the sides of the drawer compartments. To these holes inside skids for guide boxes will be attached.

The fifth stage is laying the boards in the tabletop frame. Boards with a thickness of 50 mm are cut into blanks of a certain length. If a long board is available, then you need three blanks 245 mm wide and 2190 mm long. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 blanks 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood in the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then it is mandatory to paint the entire metal structure of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weatherproof and anti-corrosive coating option. Be especially careful when painting welding seams. Drops of metal and irregularities are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure is dry, you can start laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that the tree tends to expand and shrink with a change in temperature and humidity. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will simplify installation. sheet metal on top of the tree. Boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is the fastening of the upper steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach steel sheet on hidden screws to wooden boards. Previously, the metal must be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal countertop with the same paint that covered the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time, the paint may scratch and the table will not look too new.

The last step is to install the boxes on the rails and fasten the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing workbench. After work with plywood is over, it must be coated with a compound that will protect the material from exposure environment. Also, do not forget about the design of the power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, to which the necessary things will be hung.

In order to make it convenient to work at the workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bending stand to the power shield. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the right place.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a locksmith's workbench

The vise is an indispensable attribute locksmith workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool weighing several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket between the metal of the table and the tool, 1 cm thick. It is required to drill holes for the anchor bolts in the gasket. Then, in the same places, drill holes in the countertop of the same size. The whole structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

1. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garage is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But, it is worth knowing that the whole structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
2. The workplace should be organized in such a way that nothing interferes with a person. When working with a vise, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the countertop.
3. The corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp and have cutting edges.
4. After repair work behind the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
5. If a homemade workbench is made correctly, then it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Shield plywood

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage

All photos from the article

Carrying out carpentry work in his house, any amateur craftsman must have for them convenient fixture. It will become a guarantee of comfort and safety of your activity, and also significantly intensifies it.

Our article is devoted to how to make a wood workbench on your own.

Typical desktop design

The carpenter's workbench, in fact, is a massive and extremely stable desktop on which processing takes place. wooden blanks different sizes. The larger the fixture, the more heavy and dimensional elements on it can be processed.

At the same time, you can work on it hand tools: saw, chisel, brace, etc., as well as mechanical: electric jigsaw, planer, drill, etc.

Layout of elements

The workbench for working with wood has the following typical elements.

1. The working surface (tabletop, lid) is made of boards. They must be dry and have a thickness of at least 5 - 6 cm. The best option is to use impregnated drying oil: oak, hornbeam, beech. Otherwise, the cover will wear out quickly.
2. A vise is installed on the front side of the tabletop for fixing workpieces.

Note! If the workbench will be more than one meter long, it is best to hang a couple of different vices for processing small and large items. The larger vise can be made of wood, while the smaller ones can be made of metal.

1. Supports (legs) are usually made of soft rocks: linden, pine, maple, etc. They are mated with each other by longitudinally arranged slats. So the design gains strength and stability.
2. With fixation on supports in the space below the cover of the workbench, it is possible to place retractable or tightly fixed shelves, drawers or cabinets for tools.
3. On the front side of the tabletop, before you make a workbench for wood, you should drill holes for mounting wedges, clamps and other devices for fixing dimensional workpieces.
4. A recess should be made on the back of the cover, which is necessary for processing small parts.

If the blacksmith's main tools are the hammer and the anvil, then for the carpenter there is nothing "kinder" than his workbench. It is he who for people who work with wood can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, an emphasis and a stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you like, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells how to make carpentry tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawing presented in it will help to mount this design even for a beginner.

Osya FORUMHOUSE member

First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make a table for yourself. A table like a workbench, in fact. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.) I will call it an assembly table.

In fact, the second name of the workbench is "assembly". But, as you already understood, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see the drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be given as much time as it takes to design the carpentry shop itself.

General description of the carpentry workbench

At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with it, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will do carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex structure and amaze others with your skills.

A good massive table is the foundation. And everything else - a vice, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are the invariable attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.

Workbench project

To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters, which are optimal for you.

The first and most important thing to pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, he will have to work for a long time. And you can get tired, standing behind a workbench that is too high or too low, in a jiffy.

The dimensions of the workbench for work are selected in such a way that it is possible to work while standing in full height and don't slouch. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70 ... 90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered hands. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will realize that working standing at such a table is a pleasure.

The optimal height of the carpentry table for standing work for a person of average height is 70-90 cm.

The cover of the workbench, as well as the work surface, is best made from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use chip materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. for these purposes. We strongly do not recommend that you take an example from them. This is a bad project - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and particle board under such conditions will quickly fail.

Osya FORUMHOUSE member

5 years ago, I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.

Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood blanks involved in the work, as well as special holes (nests) for wedges and combs. With the help of wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be fixed on the surface of the table. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.

The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the dimensions of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the cover are equal - 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.

Supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from wooden beam 120*120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not loosen under the influence of brute physical force.

Workbench installation

As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Mounting a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary one. wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The work surface should also be fixed to the supports using self-tapping screws.

When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. Indeed, later this can lead to a rapid loosening of the workbench and even to a distortion of its supporting frame.

In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is attached to the wall. This type of installation assumes that carpentry work will be performed only when necessary.

CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member

In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a workbench - a laminated MDF board 24 mm thick, with dimensions of 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for mounting manual router and circulars, flush-cut metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers and mustache nuts from below, located in the places of fastening hand planer and drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it rose vertically and was fixed on the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, there are two triangles from the same plate. She used to work on them.

Such a design is an excellent way out of a situation in which the interior space of the workshop is very limited. But such carpenter's table does not withstand intense loads, and it can be made independently only in exceptional cases.

After you mount the frame and the work surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and start carpentry, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by supplementing the design with specialized equipment.

Given the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter's desktop must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if necessary tools always at hand, this is an excellent indicator. And correctly arrange fixtures, fasteners and power tools will help you structural elements the workbench itself.

Rear and front clamps

Rear and side (front) screw clamps are the elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.

The rear clamp is designed to fix lumber during planing. As shown in the diagram, its vise pads move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing you to securely fix the workpiece with the help of lead screws.

The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, many call the front clamp) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of the carpentry table for its self-production. FORUMHOUSE member

The fact of the matter is that in the design of the workbench, the lower shelf is necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). The tool is used a lot, there is nowhere to put it on the street during work. Yes, and in the workshop it is also inconvenient - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...

The basement can be adapted to store power tools. To increase convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves for small parts, fixtures and hand tools here.

Having made a workbench that has all of the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In progress further work you may need additional accessories. But about what options to apply and what elements to add, each master will be able to guess for himself.

About from which you can subsequently make various products on your carpentry workbench, you can learn from our previous article. You can get acquainted with practical ideas regarding, in the appropriate section of our forum. Any visitor to FORUMHOUSE can get acquainted with by visiting a special topic created for discussions.

I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw the vise, and put tools in boxes.

I was able to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for me.

Metal parts are marked in blue, wooden parts are in yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm metal sheet. The frame of the workbench will be welded from profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm boards. From the 40x4 strip, guides for attaching the side panels will be made. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and mounted on a powerful skid.

For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Diky to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to stretch it out for the whole day, we went to the metal depot.

The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a tattered army pea jacket, who looked like he was suffering from a hangover, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grubby rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with it.

On that harsh January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main parts of the frame took two evenings, in total five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick fetid sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base for a homemade countertop is welded.

The crossbars of the base for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here's a little sketch of what it looks like:

In the meantime, scalded the instrument panel brackets.

Overlays from 4mm strip reinforced loaded joints.

Welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.

Brackets give additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the countertop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a 2200x750 sheet.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired size.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b]let's cooperate, otherwise it's a little expensive for one.

I made boxes from 15mm plywood. Assembled with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It came out strong just the way I like it.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The sled was fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting in food processor 3 liter V8 car engine. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. What's more, it's so secure.

Now I'm thinking about different options facades.

This completes the welding phase. Ahead is a carpenter and a painter. Still in a trifle locksmith and electrically conductive.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wah, what nice paint I swear on mom! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.

Covered the table top edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with self-tapping screws 4.0x35. I used 60 screws in total.

I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay denser.

Watered about protecting the tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion on its own.
When the impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I of fire retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow you to cook metal directly on the surface of the workbench. All the same, if the boards do not catch fire, they will char. To organize a welding post, I plan to weld a removable grate that will reliably protect the surface of the countertop from thermal exposure.

After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm metal sheet.

Covered the countertop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to a wooden base with rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.

Shields of 10mm plywood closed the extra openings in the frame of the workbench.
Pictured is the paint shop.

Registered on the tabletop permanent residents - grinder and vise. On a hefty tabletop, they are lost.

1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on a countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter, which will create a strong protective film and easy to update as needed. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy chair with adjustable height?

P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the manufacturing process for everything presented on the links.

Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin uniform layer.

While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if varnished. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because. the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the transducer and dries again, hiding all old damage.

From the big one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the countertop).

Well, actually, for the sake of what ...

Test passed

Class! No more huddling with hand power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where to put them - all in one place and at hand.

Installed the instrument panel. Solid, from 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus plywood 21 mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals to hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something

Facades for drawers made from the remnants of the 21st plywood

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.

The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. Worktop area 1.65 square meters, instrument panel area 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost the same cubic meter. A feature of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid mechanical damage. Roomy shelves, drawers and a panel allow you to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade workbench of dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will work on it.

P.S. And after a little refinement, you get an excellent dressing table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put a bullet in the project a few more photos.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (with a screwdriver, of course).

In time I will add spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, bracket for paper towels Oh, and extra lighting. Thankfully for two square meters there is room to expand. I made an awesome piece. Satisfied like an elephant.

Firstly, the small vise could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, more powerful vices are installed. On one side they have a cast five pointed star, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? Hope they last me the same. In general, a good vise is the pride of the master.

The photo shows that the table top does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the table at all. Therefore, when attaching a vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. I thought so. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would be better to make them smaller. I will invent some organizers inside them.

The rest turned out great. All tools in one place, in plain sight and always ready. On a large tabletop there is also where to decompose.

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