Carpenter's table with your own hands. Independent production of a woodworking workbench made of wood Do-it-yourself woodworking workbench

If the blacksmith's main tools are the hammer and the anvil, then for the carpenter there is nothing "kinder" than his workbench. It is he who for people who work with wood can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, an emphasis and a stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you like, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells how to make carpentry tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawing presented in it will help to mount this design even for a beginner.

Osya FORUMHOUSE member

First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make a table for yourself. A table like a workbench, in fact. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.) I will call it an assembly table.

In fact, the second name of the workbench is "assembly". But, as you already understood, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see the drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be given as much time as it takes to design the carpentry shop itself.

General description of the carpentry workbench

At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with its help, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex structure and surprise others with his skills.

A good massive table is the foundation. And everything else - a vice, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are the invariable attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.

Workbench project

To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters, which are optimal for you.

The first and most important thing to pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, he will have to work for a long time. And you can get tired, standing behind a workbench that is too high or too low, in a jiffy.

The dimensions of the workbench for work are selected in such a way that it is possible to work while standing in full height and don't slouch. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70 ... 90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered hands. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will realize that working standing at such a table is a pleasure.

The optimal height of the carpentry table for standing work for a person of average height is 70-90 cm.

The cover of the workbench, as well as the work surface, is best made from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use chip materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. for these purposes. We strongly do not recommend that you take an example from them. This is a bad project - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and particle board under such conditions will quickly fail.

Osya FORUMHOUSE member

5 years ago, I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.

Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood blanks involved in the work, as well as special holes (nests) for wedges and combs. With the help of wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be fixed on the surface of the table. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.

The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the dimensions of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the cover are equal - 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.

Supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from wooden beam 120*120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not loosen under the influence of brute physical force.

Workbench installation

As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Mounting a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary one. wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The work surface should also be fixed to the supports using self-tapping screws.

When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. Indeed, later this can lead to a rapid loosening of the workbench and even to a distortion of its supporting frame.

In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is attached to the wall. This type of installation assumes that carpentry work will be performed only when necessary.

CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member

In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a workbench - a laminated MDF board 24 mm thick, with dimensions of 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening a hand mill and a circular saw, a flush-mounted metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers, and mustache nuts from below, located at the attachment points hand planer and drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it rose vertically and was fixed on the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, there are two triangles from the same plate. She used to work on them.

Such a design is an excellent way out of a situation in which the interior space of the workshop is very limited. But such a carpentry table does not withstand intense loads, and it can be made independently only in exceptional cases.

After you mount the frame and the work surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and start carpentry, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by supplementing the design with specialized equipment.

Given the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter's desktop must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if necessary tools always at hand, this is an excellent indicator. And the structural elements of the workbench itself will help you correctly position the fixtures, fasteners and power tools.

Rear and front clamps

Rear and side (front) screw clamps are the elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.

The rear clamp is designed to fix lumber during planing. As shown in the diagram, its vise pads move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing you to securely fix the workpiece with the help of lead screws.

The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of the carpentry table for its self-production. FORUMHOUSE member

The fact of the matter is that in the design of the workbench, the lower shelf is necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). The tool is used a lot, there is nowhere to put it on the street during work. Yes, and in the workshop it is also inconvenient - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...

The basement can be adapted to store power tools. To increase convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves for small parts, fixtures and hand tools here.

Having made a workbench that has all of the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In progress further work you may need additional accessories. But about what options to apply and what elements to add, each master will be able to guess for himself.

About from which you can subsequently make various products on your carpentry workbench, you can learn from our previous article. You can get acquainted with practical ideas regarding, in the appropriate section of our forum. Any visitor to FORUMHOUSE can get acquainted with by visiting a special topic created for discussions.

1. Glue the front beam from several layers A and trim to final size (Fig. 1 and 1a). Then cut grooves in it with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm (Fig. 1a, photo A and V).

Brief advice! Do not glue the parts of the milling template, but fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to slot into the rear vise block which is wider than the cover front bar.

From a couple of pieces of thick board and 12 mm thick material, assemble a simple template for milling at an angle of 2 ° grooves, which will become holes for the bench stops.

When cutting slots in the front bar with a 12mm helical cutter and 19mm guide sleeve, remove material little by little, gradually increasing the depth.

2. Cut out the overlay V and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove the squeezed out excess glue.

3. Using the template usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill the holes for the rods. (photo C, fig. 1).

Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect with the bench rest holes in the A/B front bar. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.

Note. This project uses a front and back viseLee Valley. They feature good workmanship, smooth operation and come with detailed installation instructions.

4. Now make the cover shield WITH, lower pads for the front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear bar G. Glue the trims, back rail, spacer and front rail to the lid (Fig. 1).

5. Make the left and right tips H, I (Fig. 2). Form tongues 36 mm wide and 57 mm deep along one side of the tips and drill 12 mm holes.

Brief advice! To quickly make clean and tidy sheet piles, remove most of the material with a slotted disk and then smooth the sides and bottom with a router table.

6. Mill on the ends of the cover A-G rebate on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (PhotoD), to form combs that are inserted into the tongues of the tips H, I.

Use the tip as a guide to cut the folds on the lid. Be careful not to hit the front trim B with the cutter.

7. Place the left tip on the comb H by pushing it to the front pad V. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield WITH. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use the awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (PhotoF). Draw parallel lines, 6 mm apart on both sides of each mark left by the awl, so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.

Use the point of a 12 mm drill to transfer the centers of the holes in the tips H, I to the ridges of the cover.

Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that when driving in the dowels, the tip with the cover is pulled tighter.

With a thin round rasp, process all holes except the first. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit snugly.

8. Drill 12 mm holes according to the marking. Then, starting at the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it 2mm on both sides without going beyond the parallel lines to make an oval 16mm long. Do the same with other holes, increasing the length of each next by 1.5 mm in both directions (PhotoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. In the right tip I cut 57x165mm flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom lining E.

9. Put on the tips H, I on the combs and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the upper and lower edges of the tips.

Brief advice! To facilitate the installation of tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowing at their ends.

Add a vise

1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of ​​​​movement of the router when selecting a recess in the bottom plate D for front vice (photo H). Mark the recess so that it is located 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center of the large hole for the vise screw.

Use a 12mm ascending cutter to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange as necessary the trim supporting the router.

Peel off the back plate to slide the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again, and the operation can be considered completed.

2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them with the template used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the cover.

3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J shouldered fillets and attach the front vise to the cover following the directions in the instructions (photo I). Install the stock handlebar in place.

4. Cut out the block according to the indicated dimensions TO for rear clamps. Remake the milling fixture that was used before and form grooves in the block with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm at an angle (Fig. 3 and 3a).

5. Cut out the overlay L for rear clamps. Drill in the block TO 10 mm through holes with 25 mm counterbores (Fig. 3 and Per). Pressing the overlay against the block with clamps, mark the centers of the holes on it with a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill holes with a diameter of 16 mm at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from the one described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included in the vise package. In doing so, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.

6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any extruded adhesive from the bench stop holes.

Align the holes of the block K exactly with the holes of the pad L. In order not to spend a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.

7. Attach the assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism in place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard handle-lever.

Make bench stops

1. Saw according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials" 17 stops M and 17 springs N. For the stops, we chose cherry wood, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the parts, and its color contrasts well with the white oak wood from which the workbench cover is made. For springs, dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable.

2. To give the stops the desired shape, make copies of the template, increasing them by 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and at the same time remain at the desired height. To learn more about them, read the article "Bench stops" published in this issue of the magazine.

Let's go to the base

Note. Before you start making, measure and record the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit snugly into this recess. If it fails to fit, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.

1. According to the dimensions indicated in the “List of Materials”, cut out the shelves O, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue lining to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to partitions P/R and secure with additional screws.

2. Sawing plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R divider shelf assembly.

3. From 19mm cherry veneered plywood, cut out the side and back walls U, V. Glue the side walls in place first, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to fix it.

4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled body before sawing out the crossbeams, uprights and overlays and make sure that the lengths listed in the Materials List are appropriate for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a slight allowance in length, and then fit them in place.

Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the front of the base, then add the uprights.

5. Now cut out the back rails Z, AA, racks BB, mullions SS and side rails DD, EE. Glue the bottom back bar AA and mullions to the back wall V (photo K). Then glue the rear top rail and posts in place, then the side bottom rails with mullions to the side walls, and finally the top side rails and posts.

Use a couple of thick, even-edged blocks to press the SS center pieces more firmly against the back wall.

6. Mill 10 mm chamfers at the corners of the body, ending at the joints of the crossbeams with the uprights (Fig. 6).

Before connecting the plinth boards, you need to saw the bevels on the slats glued on top. After that, you can start milling fillets.

7. From the 19mm cherry boards, cut the side, front and back plinth boards FF, GG specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off a 19 x 19 mm strip from the top edge of each plinth board and mark the pieces to put them in place later. Finally, make the dovetail joints to hold the plinth boards together (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple connections paus, saw out the plinth boards of the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from above.

8. File the miter bevels on the slats for the side plinths only, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn off. Then glue the slats without bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel only the top of the front and back plinth boards so that they fit snugly into the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and the exact mating of the parts can be achieved by fitting, removing the material little by little (PhotoL). Next, cut a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all plinth boards.

9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may have to use screws or nails to fasten them if you made bevels at their ends instead of dovetails.

Add doors

1. Cut out the crossbars HH, racks II and panels JJ specified dimensions (Fig. 7).

2. Make dowels 6 mm wide and 12 mm deep centered on the inner edges of all uprights and rungs. Then form spikes 6 mm thick and 12 mm long at the ends of the crossbars.

3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, rails and panels together. When the glue is dry, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust if necessary. Then mill 5×5 mm seams on the upper and lower edges of the doors with inside, as well as 10 × 5 mm folds on racks where there are no loops. These rebates leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet for the installation of magnetic latches.

Attach the doors to the cabinet with the hinges and put the magnetic latches in place.

Lower the lid onto the base

1. Invite three well-built buddies to use them to lift the heavy bench top and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well kept in place.

2. Once you've set up your new workbench in your workshop, immediately move on to your next project so you can enjoy your time in the workshop even more!

For a zealous owner, a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or extension to the house. Of course, a carpentry workbench can be purchased. But if this is a product of a well-known brand, then it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the requests of the master. Cheap tables will not last long - definitely.

Most rational solution if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench - make it yourself. Having dealt with the optimal dimensions, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult in this for any man.

Selecting a workbench project

You need to start with this. Any desktop is made for some specific purposes and premises. Joiner's workbench - the name is generalized. One is needed only for woodworking on personal plot(for example, during construction or overhaul), the other is assembled for everyday work with small parts, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and the place of installation, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.

Option A - portable workbench (mobile). Such a desktop is most often assembled by hand for small spaces(an extension, garage), with a complex layout, and its main purpose is to perform small work with small parts. The relatively low weight of the structure makes it easy to move it, if necessary, to another segment. As a rule, the maximum that such a workbench can be equipped with is a medium-sized vice and e / emery. This will allow the carpentry table to be partially used for small plumbing work.

Option B - stationary workbench. His distinguishing feature- massiveness. Such joiner's tables are mainly needed by those who often cut (dissolve) lumber - overall boards, timber or logs. In practice, amateur craftsmen install them on the site only for the period of building a house or outbuilding. After completion of work, they are used infrequently - for "rough" technological operations. For a private house, such a workbench is needed, but for a garage (considering small size boxing) is hardly suitable.

Option B - in fact, this is an intermediate (prefabricated) structure (on bolted connections). Its advantage is the ability to modify or modify something at any time, depending on the tasks being solved. But a significant disadvantage is the complexity of the assembly. And if vibrating mechanisms are installed on such a workbench (the same electric / grindstone), then it will have to be constantly put in order (tighten all fasteners).

For domestic purposes, a table according to option A is best suited for a home master. It is called mobile only conditionally, only because of the relatively light weight. If a specific place is allocated for him in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing his legs on the floor (fill with concrete, “fasten” with large self-tapping screws, and so on). With your own hands, whatever.

Drafting a carpentry workbench

If the workbench is assembled for domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master himself is free to change anything, at his own discretion.

• Length - at least 180.
• Working surface width – 90±10.
• Workbench height - 80 ± 10 (taking into account the thickness of the tabletop). Deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with a tree will be effective and will bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.

What to consider:

• The number and type of compartments in the cabinet table. It can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
• To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “nests” in the tabletop to install limiters.
• To fix the workpieces, it is desirable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. The optimal width of their "sponges" is 170 ± 5 mm.
• Desktop location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of fixtures fixed on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.

If the owner is left-handed, then this should be foreseen. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose "working" hand is right. Therefore, you will have to place additional / equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.

Workbench drawing example

Selection of materials

The bar is planed. He will go to the frame (frame) of the workbench. The section is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the structure. For a large table - at least 100 x 100. If it is compact, for universal use, you can limit yourself to blanks of 100 x 70 (50). They are also perfect for various jumpers. Board. For a countertop, its minimum thickness is 50. Here you need to think about how to use the workbench more rationally. For example, to make it truly universal, one part of it can be specially adapted to perform locksmith work, that is, with metals. In this case, it is advisable to take a more massive board (for example, "sixty") and upholster a small segment of the tabletop with sheet iron. This is just one of the ideas that you can implement with your own hands when determining the design features of the workbench.

The desktop is not installed in the living quarters. And in the workshop there will definitely be differences in both temperature and humidity. So for the manufacture of a workbench, wood is recommended - hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are characterized by sufficient hardness. Although for the countertop of a home-made workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, plate samples (chipboard, OSV) are sometimes taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.

Too porous wood should not be used. Even its high-quality treatment with antiseptics, oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the tree.

fasteners

• Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They must be of such length that reverse side you could put a washer, grover and nut. More difficult with other types of fasteners.
• Nails. How expedient it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are quite common), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of remarks are worth making.

1. Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
2. Secondly, it is unlikely that it will be possible to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
3. Thirdly, the difficulty with dismantling. For example, if it is necessary to repair the desktop with the replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly clogged “powerful” nail.

• Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice. The most "problem" areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, plates. The main thing is to correctly choose the length of the leg of the fastener. There is a rule according to which it should exceed the thickness of the fastened part by 3 times, at least. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is questionable.

Assembly instructions for a carpentry workbench

In the process of making a desktop with his own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion even in one place - and everything will have to start over.

Manufacturing of workbench parts

• This is easy to do according to the dimensions in the drawing.
• Each sample is carefully polished.
• Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are processed to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
• Drying. This is worth focusing on. It is impossible to initiate this process with the help of artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.

Base Frame Assembly (Workbench Base)

Partially about the features of fastening has already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tenon-groove connection with a fit on carpentry glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).

Here you should consider the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If he is in a room with good conditions, then it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are fully justified. For desktops that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and even more so under open sky, "landing" on the glue is undesirable. Partial repairs cannot be done, and the frame will have to be reassembled.

Additional reliability of the design can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. All this is thought out even at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although it is possible to make “refinement” during the installation process.

table top

This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (in case of significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.

• The width of the countertop is selected so that its surface extends somewhat beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to work on such a workbench. Yes, and fixing the removable vise will no longer work.
• The side parts of the boards are carefully polished. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, then you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
• The blanks are stacked face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be pulled with thick self-tapping screws. In extreme cases, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.

• To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed on the frame using metal corners.
• After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).

Workbench equipment

At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vise. They can be purchased, which are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry make clamping devices on their own.

In principle, a man who is “friends” with the simplest tool should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.

Even if they do not have sizes, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that there will be new, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or barn. Yes, and having familiarized with the complete set of the table, design features various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling with your own hands is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.

A properly equipped work area for plumbing or assembly work on wood or metal should be comfortable and functional. It is available to make the central part - a workbench made of wood with your own hands, completing the project according to individual drawings.

locksmith workbench is a special design in the form of a table equipped with various electromechanical devices. The surface must have high level strength for attaching additional equipment. Drawers, shelves, tool holders will help to increase the functionality of the arrangement.

A do-it-yourself workbench made of wood has differences depending on the intended purpose: for metalwork, woodworking, or metalworking equipment. Standard design includes:

• bed, or underwork;
• tray, or box-shaped cover;
• shelves, boxes;
• apron.

Tables are multi-seat or single. Standard drawings of the dimensions of the latter correspond to a width of 800 cm and a length of 1.5 m. Multi-seat options increase depending on the desired number of working areas.

The height of the structure is selected individually (800-900 cm). There are also products with adjustable height. The material for the manufacture of the table is wood, or metal. The table top is finished with sheets of galvanized sheet, plywood, hardboard, or boards.

Basic requirements and preparatory work

A do-it-yourself woodworking workbench must meet the working criteria for arrangement and safety. It is also important to first determine the type of structure, which implies stationarity, mobility, or the possibility of disassembly.

Design project selection

Wondering how to do working area comfortable and functional, you will need to familiarize yourself with the main design aspects of the workbench. The choice of design is purely individual and depends on the specifics of the application.

Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage can be designed using three main options:

1. Portable (mobile). The equipment is optimally suited for small spaces, easy to move due to its low weight. It is advisable to use a portable table for small jobs. Additionally, a do-it-yourself workbench can be equipped with a vise or emery.
2. Stationary. The massive structure is intended for dimensional work (cutting). The drawings of the product must take into account the practicality of the installation. The workbench is optimal for installation in a workshop in a private house. In the garage box, the equipment will take up too much space, rarely being used for technological operations.
3. national team. The design is carried out on bolted connections, which allows you to modify the equipment depending on construction needs. The assembly process is quite laborious. Fasteners of vibrating devices installed on such a machine require constant tightening.

When deciding to make a workbench in the garage with your own hands from wood, it is recommended to choose a mobile design project. If you need a permanent installation, you can simply fix the legs of the equipment on the floor. The prefabricated structure is durable, due to the possibility of replacing damaged or loose parts.

Drafting

After choosing a project, you should make drawings of the future product. There are indicative parameters, the application of which is not an axiom. When making a do-it-yourself workbench made of wood, the drawings can be adjusted to the desired parameters for the height and width of the countertop. The height of the product, first of all, should correspond to the growth of the master.

When drawing up drawings, additional parameters should be considered:

• number of shelves, cabinets;
• installation of limiters;
• the presence of clamping devices;
• lighting.

Drawers, fasteners for tools, will make the process more comfortable. Limiters make it easier to work with elements of various sizes. Clamping equipment (vise) will help to securely fix the samples. High-quality lighting will ensure the convenience of work, so it is important to think over the layout of the fixtures in advance.

Material characteristics

A do-it-yourself wooden workbench must strictly comply with generally accepted standards of strength and safety. The carpenter's table is installed in technical rooms, which will require taking into account the temperature regime, the level of humidity when choosing materials for manufacturing.

The quality characteristics of wood should be hardness and resistance to destruction. A porous material, even with good moisture-proof properties, will not have the required level of strength. A wooden workbench is recommended to be made from planed timber and boards.

The cross section of the beam for the frame depends on the size of the structure. Compact products will require the use of 100x70 material, larger ones - 100x100. The choice of a board must correspond to a thickness of at least 50. It is available to make the workbench universal, combining the possibility of carpentry and locksmith work. You will need to complete the section of the countertop with sheet iron upholstery.

Metal can be used as the main material of manufacture. The option turns out to be massive and heavy, appropriate for stationary projects.

The disadvantage of the metal structure is the lack of an opening for the legs in the table. This element provides Negative influence on the ability of the foundation to withstand dynamic loads.

Fasteners

The table for plumbing work must have strong and reliable fasteners. Bolts are selected according to the required thickness, leaving room for the washer, Grover and nut. The use of nails causes a number of controversies. This type of fastener can split the frame beam, or cause a violation of the verticality of the parts. Dismantling or replacing an integral part of the workbench can be difficult, due to the difficulty of removing a tightly driven nail.

The most appropriate use of self-tapping screws. A do-it-yourself workbench in the mobile version of the project can be further reinforced with planks, corners, or metal plates. To achieve the required strength of the connection, you can select the optimal length of the fastening leg. The width of the part should be three times the thickness of the fastened base.

The process of assembling a carpentry workbench

A do-it-yourself workbench table made of wood during the assembly process requires special attention to the execution of corners. Even a slight distortion, a violation of the level, will lead to a distortion of the structure. In the course of work, it will be necessary to regularly measure the evenness of the structural joints.

Marking and manufacturing of workbench parts should be carried out according to the planned drawing calculations. Samples are subject to careful finishing and polishing. It is recommended to pick up special composition for wood processing, increasing the resistance of the material to destruction, moisture and damage by mold, fungus.

It is important not to ignore the drying process of parts. This stage cannot be accelerated artificially by applying heat. As a result, deformation of the surfaces may occur. Evaporation of moisture should occur naturally, against the background of good ventilation and even temperature indicators in the room.

Assembling the base of the workbench

The do-it-yourself workbench is assembled from the base - a supporting frame made of beams. To achieve the necessary strength and reliability of the structure, the thorn-groove assembly option will help. The connection details are additionally processed with an adhesive composition. Fasteners made of self-tapping screws and reinforcement elements will advantageously complement the installation of the base.

Landing parts of the base on the glue is advisable in the closed conditions of the garage or workshop. If you plan to use the table in unheated rooms, or on the street, do not use adhesive fixation, because if you need to replace a part of the table, the frame will need to be reassembled.

Massive structures can be reinforced with diagonal or horizontal lintels. Omissions in the additional rigidity of the product at the design stage, it is possible to refine it during the assembly process.

Forming the tabletop

A high-quality desktop surface should take into account the need for replacement. The countertop is most exposed to intense impact when performing plumbing, or carpentry work. The mobility of dismantling the elements should be thought out in advance, fixing the countertop with the help of special metal corners.

The width of the plane must exceed the size of the base, which will allow mounting additional removable equipment. The absence of an edge will make the countertop uncomfortable and limit the functionality of the surface.

The assembly process involves laying the boards face down. It is important to work on a level surface. Further, perpendicular to the base, the elements are fastened with bars.

Installation wooden parts countertops should be produced to ensure maximum density, avoiding the formation of gaps. At the final stage front side countertops are ground and treated with impregnating pastes.

Additional workbench equipment

Having figured out how to make a workbench out of wood with your own hands, you should consider the necessary details of equipping the desktop. Installation of additional equipment is carried out depending on the selected design modification.

Fixing the vise will require preliminary preparation of the recess. The top of the vise (lips) should be flush with the table top. Equipment for fixing samples for work, requires a strong fixation. It is advisable to use bolts and nuts, allowing, if necessary, to dismantle the device. The location of the vice is recommended to be done, stepping back from the corner of the tabletop, in order to avoid the breakdown of the equipment.

Prudent equipment of the workbench with stops will allow you to conveniently fix the parts during work. Rectangular recesses require the creation of special holes that are cut with a jigsaw. Installation metalwork tool under carpentry work will increase the functionality of the table. The stationary power tool is attached with self-tapping screws.

Having familiarized yourself with the basics of bundling, assembling a workbench with your own hands, it becomes possible to develop and implement interesting ideas. Modifying and equipping the design, based on individual preferences, you can create the best version of the working area.

Each home master knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpenter's workbench, equipped with all kinds of tools for working parts, is half the success in the manufacture of wood products. Of course, the desktop can be bought in the distribution network. However, we recommend making it yourself. First, it will allow you to get the product right size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench, additional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a quality tool with the money saved. If these arguments gave you a reason to think about making a desktop with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a solid, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.

Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench

Sturdy and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during long work with wooden parts

The carpenter's workbench, in fact, is a massive, reliable table for processing wooden products any size. The main requirements for this type of equipment are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of fixtures for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the working table are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts to be processed, as well as free space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can be placed even on the balcony.

The design of a carpentry workbench with a type-setting worktop. In the figure: 1 - base or bench; 2 - workbench; 3 - miter box; 4 - coupler; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam

Since the work that is carried out on the carpentry machine is carried out with the help of manual and electric tools, the workbench is made of massive timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in another way the workbench, is assembled only from hardwood. In the manufacture of countertops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the countertop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a bench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on edge.

A number of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install stop elements for the convenience of processing long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the construction, the supporting legs of the desktop, on the contrary, are made of soft wood. Between themselves, the vertical supports are connected by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.

Typical scheme of a carpentry workbench

on the front and lateral side workbench hang a vice of a special design for fastening workpieces. In addition, on overall machines, separate clamping devices for large and small parts are mounted. The optimal location for the carpentry vice is left-hand side front apron and the near part of the right sidewall.

In the workbench - the space between the supports, under the table top, they often equip convenient shelves and drawers for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the countertop for fittings and small parts. Often, a recess that is difficult to manufacture is replaced with a frame knocked down from wooden slats.

Types and design

All home-made desktops for carpentry can be divided into three types:

1. Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with one vice and are made partly from metal elements. These machines are designed to work with small, light workpieces or minor repairs wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option when there is not enough space and can be installed in any room in the country house or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.

   Homemade carpentry workbench mobile design

   
   

   If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for minor repairs or the manufacture of small parts, you can convert an old desk.

2. A stationary carpentry workbench is made with reference to a specific place and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.

   The stationary carpenter's workbench is a reliable, stable structure, equipped in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the features of the room.

3. Composite type machine - the most difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, this design, due to its variability, is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the desktop are bolted together.

   The composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement.

Project and drawings

When developing the design of a carpentry workbench the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will operate the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that it will take a long time to work at a carpentry workbench, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.

Drawing of a carpentry workbench

When determining the distance from the floor to the countertop, it is best to focus not on the average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is on the same level with the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the countertop, then you can work at such a workbench tirelessly for several hours.

The cover of the machine can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a type-setting structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long identified optimal size countertops - maximum 2 m long and 0.7 m wide. On such a workbench, with the same convenience, you can make a prefabricated wooden door and a small window.

When designing a structure, do not forget about the strength of the supporting frame. For supporting structural elements, a bar with a section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use rails and beams with a smaller section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on spikes or dowels, furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamental nature of the structure.

Joiner's workbench. View from above

Often the frame, or otherwise the frame of the workbench, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to make a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.

Next, consider the project of a carpentry table¸ made of plywood, or rather, from two plywood sheets 1.8 mm thick glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can be adjusted, if necessary, in accordance with the needs and characteristics of a particular room used as a workshop.

Necessary tools and materials

Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a rather expensive material (the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding shipping costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet with dimensions of 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood with a width of at least 300 mm, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additionally, for the construction of a carpentry machine, you will need:

• wooden beam with a section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
• timber or slats with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
  When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will work under continuous load;
• electric drill with a set of conventional and feather drills;
• pieces of boards with a length of at least 1.5 m for laying under the clamps;
• wood glue. A good result can be obtained by using the domestic adhesive "Moment Joiner";
• furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
• Circular Saw;
• joiner's square;
• long rule (at least 2 m);
• construction level;
• a notched trowel with a size of cut sectors of at least 3 mm;
• carpentry clamps.

Clamps required for compressing plywood sheets during gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have quality tool, you can get cheap clamping devices Chinese production. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instructions

1. To make a countertop, cut two blanks with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of maximum length, then you need to saw off one blank 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After that, as a rule, check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.

   High-quality gluing provides clamping of tabletop parts with clamps

   
   

   To properly glue the plywood sheets, they are folded, turning the convex sides to each other.

2. After laying one blank on three parallel-laid boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched trowels. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The glue manufacturer Moment Stolyar recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not sure about the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time limits. Of course, the strength of the joint will be slightly reduced, however, even a good quality PVA furniture mixture will provide an acceptable degree of bonding.

   To prevent damage to the workpiece, support boards are placed under the clamps.

3. Having laid the second workpiece on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table cover and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using the rule. It will not work to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
   

   You can glue plywood sheets into a shield without clamps if you can find the perfect one. flat surface for their laying, as well as a load of sufficient mass.

4. After the glue dries, the clamps are removed and proceed to reinforce the side surfaces of the countertop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued around the entire perimeter of the cover in two layers. When doing this, be sure to check that upper layer completely covered the joints.

   Reinforcement of the side parts of the bench table with additional plywood strips

5. For trimming the side surfaces of the table, use circular saw. The parquet is carried out smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm in compliance with right angles, for which they use a joiner's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
6. Workbench supports are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with prolegs and drawers, for which lumber with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm is used. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.

   Making a carpentry workbench frame

7. The legs are assembled “in a spike” or using dowels, be sure to apply carpentry glue to the parts to be joined.
8. When assembling the upper and lower frame of the underlay, scrupulously maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are correctly trimmed. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the lower prong of 150 mm.

   Holes made in the parts with a pen drill will help to hide the bolt heads and washers.

If desired, a shelf can be built in the underlay. To do this, a plywood panel is cut out to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment

A real carpentry workbench cannot be imagined without fixtures designed to fasten workpieces. For this purpose, a vise is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that their jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To properly install the fixture on the workbench, a vice is applied to the machine and the attachment points are marked. After that, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill the holes for the washers and bolt heads.

View of the finished product with the vise installed

If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vise, stops are provided on the desktop. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the countertop. Parts made of wood are considered the best stops, since metal fixtures can damage the workpiece. Nests for supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vise. This will allow you to securely fix the workpiece of any size.

Video: DIY carpentry workbench

Building a carpentry workbench is a rather difficult task. However, personally assembled machine will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only to think over the ergonomics of the workspace and properly prepare the construction project, but also to perform the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then the resulting product will be durable and stable, delighting its owner for many years of service.