How to treat furniture from moisture. How to protect chipboard kitchen furniture from water

Welcome to ! Perhaps you are familiar with the situation when kitchen set from water turns into a pile of firewood. The laminate becomes loose and loses its original shape. The cause of the damage should be eliminated and the damaged ones replaced; there is no other way to save the headset.

risk zone

And in order to prevent such a situation, it is important to perform simple steps during assembly. First of all, we protect the cabinet under the sink and the cabinet with the dishwasher, the modules are in direct contact with water. In the latter, it is desirable to install frame facades with a grate for air circulation.

The risk zone also includes cabinets with a dishwasher and washing machine. I recommend making the case of such modules from a moisture-resistant material. If the situation does not allow this, then we will use a sanitary, transparent sealant. This is a reliable protection against moisture in your kitchen.

Sealant transparent

For more than 10 years of experience with him, there was no way to doubt his reliability. But unfortunately in stores there is along with good and low-quality goods. In order to check the properties of the sealant, you need to leave a drop at room temperature for three hours.

If the drop solidifies well (has a rubber-like consistency), then you have purchased a quality product. If the drop does not retain its shape (leaves marks on the hands), then the setting time will have to be increased to a minimum of 12 hours.

Before assembling modules

Before assembling modules that fall into the risk zone, it is necessary to carefully coat with silicone all non-edged ends on the parts. And then, while the sealant is not frozen, proceed with the assembly. In this way, you can protect parts that are inaccessible to hands, but accessible to water.

Pay attention to the design of the cabinet with the dishwasher. If it has aluminum slats, then everything is in order. If not, then in no case do we make these parts from laminated chipboard, because they will be rattled beyond recognition. For these purposes, you need to use wooden planks.

V walking distance from you, placed according to the calculation of cabinet furniture.

Moisture protection for countertops

We turn to the protection of the main part - the countertop. Moisture-resistant countertops look great, but the manufacturer gives a guarantee only for a solid countertop. In the event that you sawed it, which you definitely have to do, then there is no guarantee that it will not swell from moisture.

Be sure to silicone the end of the countertop before fastening the connecting strip. And we do not spare silicone, remove the excess with a damp cloth. Postforming (front rounded end) has a drip tray that prevents water from entering the lower cabinets. There is nothing to worry about here.

The only thing I would recommend is during installation to make a slight roll of the countertop in terms of level not to the wall, but to the hostess. For a spontaneous stack of water from the countertop. And in order to completely eliminate the penetration of water, I will tell you how I mount the wall plinth on the countertop.

My method of moisture protection

First of all, I lay a layer of silicone between the wall and the countertop. Then I draw the base of the skirting board. in two places. And only then I fix the front part of the plinth. Water will not slip through such protection, it is checked!

Layer at the junction of false panels and countertops

Layer at the junction of the base with a false panel and a layer at the junction with the countertop

And only then the front part

Washing

Installation must be carried out with great care and patience. When buying, be sure to pay attention to the locks and tongues on the sink to which they are attached. Locks should be fixed, i.e. it should be possible to snap on the tongues, and not just cling.

Locks play a major role in the installation of the sink and the life of the entire headset depends on the fasteners. And therefore, without fuss, we carry out washes. We carefully coat the drank and put it around the perimeter good layer. After fixing the sink, remove the excess with a damp cloth.

In a similar way, we mount and hob. Similarity is expressed in a sufficient amount of sealant. I carefully coat the drink, also a layer around the perimeter. After connecting to the communications, we put the cooking. After 12 hours, it will not be possible to tear it off the countertop.

Plinth protection

If the kitchen plinth is not plastic, but made of laminate, then trim (put on, fasten) on the lower edge of the plinth. It will reliably protect the lower part of the part from moisture, because it is on the floor that wet attacks on the headset occur.

After installation, do not connect the water immediately. We wait at least 12 hours for all joints to freeze. It's not scary if you made a big puddle on the countertop - wipe it off and forget it. It is important not to leave water on the countertop overnight. Elementary accuracy will prolong the life of your furniture.

Conclusion

These are all recommendations for preventing trouble from a swollen kitchen. If your headset is already swollen, then it can only be cured with a “surgical” method. Be careful not to leave the modules and work surface wet overnight. And then your favorite cuisine will delight you for decades.

If you need detailing of cabinet and built-in furniture, please contact us. We will certainly discuss the terms of cooperation and come to a consensus. For a moderate percentage for my labor, I, on time.

What would you like to add to this article?

Tell me about your experience in the comments.

I would love to hear your stories!

With good thoughts about you, always in sawdust 🙂

Rekun Dmitry.

The adhesive tape prevents splitting of the surface layer of the board during sawing. hand saw should be set at the maximum angle.

The jagged edge is a sad sight. It is especially striking on plates painted white.

Chips and artificial resin create a strong bond when pressed, but with a certain processing of the plate, the chips can split. For example, along the edge of the cut, at the place of drilling, when planing and rasping. The fibers natural wood longer and stronger connected to each other. This is why particle board needs to be handled more carefully.

How to cut chipboard

For these purposes, almost any saw will do. Only it must be driven at a very sharp angle to the surface of the plate, that is, placing the saw almost flat on the surface. Guide the circular saw and bow saw with a slight feed, with only light pressure. This will also reduce the risk of a brittle cut line. It is advisable, of course, to use a saw with the smallest teeth. Additional protection can also be an adhesive tape that is pulled along the cut line. This is generally recommended for coated particle board.

One more tip: drink without haste. Excessive haste can lead to such a result that the uneven, chipped edge of one part forms an ugly joint with another. By the way, the coating can be protected from splitting if you cut it with a sharp knife - the deeper, the better.

Drilling, rasping and planing

Drills that are dull or running at limited speed tend to split the edges of the hole being drilled. Only by choosing a good drill, and correctly leading the tool, you can avoid damage.

With a smooth, clean cut, additional processing is not required. But Circular Saw may leave bumps that need to be removed with a rasp or planer.

The rasp (or planer) is carefully guided along the edge, as when working with wood, and from the outside to the inside, so that the chips do not break out, and the edge after stripping does not seem even more sloppy.

For plates covered with film, a planer is more suitable. Those who find working with a planer too difficult can use a file.

Surface treatment

There are two ways decorative processing surfaces of wood products and chipboards - varnishing or cladding. Lacquered, as a rule, wooden surfaces, particle boards for aesthetic reasons - extremely rarely, only when it is necessary to "ennoble" a not very impressive appearance slab or finished product.

Before varnishing, the surface should be puttied.

Even a factory-sanded wood surface particle board needs to be puttied and sanded before applying varnish to it. Tiny, barely noticeable damage can be clearly visible under the varnish film, and this will only worsen the appearance of the product.

Putty is applied evenly with a spatula, and after drying, the surface is treated sandpaper. This preparatory work an absolutely flat surface should become, and then one layer of varnish is enough to form a flawless film.

If, after applying the varnish, any errors were found, then the surface should be lightly sanded with sandpaper before re-coating.

Glue the cover.

The choice of coatings for particle boards is very large. Those who have special requests regarding color, it is better to use the film.

Films are produced in a wide range color scheme and with a variety of decor, in addition, they are usually treated with an adhesive composition, which simplifies the work on finishing the plates. Since the film coating is very thin, the bearing surface must first be carefully sanded before stretching the film.

Sheet laminate, thicker and more wear resistant. It is glued with special glue, which is applied to the bearing surface of the plate and to the coating.

The laminate coating makes the particle board attractive and at the same time protects it from various influences.

Surface protection

If you bought or made furniture from chipboard, the composition of which is unknown to you, then it is better to take additional measures to protect your health.

Lacquer protection.

Formaldehyde fumes can be stopped by recoating the furniture. This layer should be thick enough. Thus, the varnish coating, at least in two layers, prevents further evaporation of formaldehyde.

Films and sheet laminates also protect the surface. Here you need to pay attention to the joints: they should be as dense as possible.

Plywood can also become a protective material, but not any. Some types of plywood are made using an adhesive composition in which the same formaldehyde is present. Therefore, it is desirable to process plywood and varnish it.

Matter and wallpaper.

Matter and wallpaper are absolutely unsuitable materials for protection against formaldehyde emissions. They are porous and therefore cannot serve as reliable protection.

Carpeting, as well as the adhesive used to install it, can also release formaldehyde. If an increased concentration of fumes hazardous to health is found during the inspection by the relevant authorities, it is necessary to find out exactly which material is the source before blaming the chipboard for everything and starting a new surface treatment.

edges

A narrow strip of plastic is applied to the edge. The iron promotes bonding.

The cut of chipboard does not look very beautiful, and, more importantly, it exposes the loose, most vulnerable inner layer. Also, with impact and strong pressure, the edges of the cut can be damaged. Therefore, the edge must be protected.

The simplest, but in most cases enough reliable protection- glue with a not very hot iron plastic tape with an adhesive coating or a veneer plate.

Wooden planks.

The edges of the slab, which are subjected to the greatest loads, need to be better defense. Thin planks of wood will help to ensure it. In color, they should be in harmony with the coating of the plate. After gluing the planks separately or together with the plate, they must be varnished or some other protective compound.

Even a 5mm bar is an effective edge protector. A wider bar will also prevent the slab from sagging.

Chipboard is an excellent structural material, but not very attractive compared to wood, and is also particularly susceptible to environmental factors. Chipboard products receive a certain protection during the manufacturing process. For this, various impregnations and additives are used. However, under intensive operating conditions, such factory measures are not enough, so it is recommended to additionally protect the material. About how to protect chipboard, as well as process it finishing materials will be discussed below.

Plate surface treatment

Facial and inner part slabs have the largest areas, so if they are not protected, they have to the largest number moisture. Simultaneously with protection, you can decorate the material. Below are a few of these methods.

lamination

The lamination process is the finishing of chipboard with paper-resin films. Facing is carried out at high temperature (150-200 degrees) and high pressure (25-30 MPa). The protective and decorative layer arises due to the spreading of hot resin over the surface. Next, the resin polymerizes, forming a solid uniform coating.

If the technological process is observed, reliable adhesion occurs between chipboard and resin. During lamination, a certain surface texture is created - usually it is gloss or. Laminated surfaces are resistant to mechanical stress, moisture, ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures.

Laminating

During lamination, chipboard is covered with an adhesive layer, on which hard paper-resin unvarnished films are then placed. The difference between laminating and laminating is that when laminating decorative coating glued to the finished board. For example, wood grain embossing is done in advance. Such films are called "finish".

As with lamination, laminating also uses high pressure and high temperatures. However, the parameters in this case are more gentle: temperature - from 20 to 150 degrees, pressure - from 5 to 7 MPa.

The disadvantage of lamination is the instability of the coating to mechanical stress and moisture. Such a surface is easily scratched and swollen. Laminating is used mainly in the manufacture of inexpensive furniture, as well as for the production of parts that are not subject to aggressive influence. environment(for example, the back walls of the cabinet).

Paint coating

Unlaminated chipboard sheet can be covered with several layers paintwork material. The sequence of work is presented below:

• remove dust and dirt from the sheet;
• coat the chipboard sheet with heated drying oil;
• coat the sheet again, but this time with cold drying oil (a thin crust should appear);
• apply the first coat of paint;
• after the first layer has dried, apply the second.

Laminated finish

Laminate is a polymer in which there are niches for the filler. As a filler, fabric, paper, veneer and other materials are used. At the heart of the manufacture of paper-layered filler is paper. It acts as a reinforcing layer, and also gives plasticity, strength and visual appeal to the layered polymer.

Finishing begins with cutting sheets of chipboard of the desired dimension. With the help of compressed air and brushes, dirt and dust are removed from the sheets. If dirt is not removed before painting, high-quality adhesion will not work.

Sticking facing material is carried out by direct pressing of a paper-laminated polymer, on which glue and chipboard are preliminarily applied. Pressing can be done hot (carbamide or PVA-based adhesives are used) or cold (PVA-dispersion contact adhesives are used). In practice, cold pressing is not used as often, because the process requires large areas, and the productivity is relatively low.

Finishing is completed with postforming. The task is to give the plastic bends and other irregular shapes. The process is carried out on special equipment at elevated temperatures.

Pasting with polymer films

The process of applying polymer films is similar to decorative cladding with plastics. The difference lies in the materials used. In this case, we are talking about a thermoplastic film applied by pressing on a chipboard treated with an adhesive composition.

Polyvinyl chloride films are used for finishing chipboard. Occasionally, polystyrene and acrylic films are used.

Finishing with polymer films is carried out on the same technological equipment, on which finishing materials such as veneer or paper-laminated polymers are applied. The cladding process can be either hot or cold.

The advantage of cladding with a polymer method is the possibility of processing profile parts. However, the use of polymer films has a limited potential, since the coating does not have high physical and mechanical properties, and is also unstable to temperature effects.

vacuum pressing

Vacuum (or as it is called otherwise - membrane) pressing is a technological process during which furniture is covered with a decorative film. The main advantage of the method is the ability to cover parts of complex shape.

For example, using membrane pressing, you can veneer furniture self made with all kinds of recesses, cutouts, miniature details, etc. The part is placed in a vacuum press, where it is densely, repeating the surface relief, covered with a heated PVC film.

Veneering

The correct name for the process is veneer. However, in everyday life the term "veneering" is often used. Natural veneer can be used to finish both chipboard and furniture panels. Veneered furniture is of a higher quality than laminated furniture. However, it is quite difficult to maintain the safety of veneered furniture, since veneer is not as durable as laminate.

Tabletop made of chipboard or MDF

To finish a chipboard or MDF sheet, you will need plastic (laminated paper, polycarbonate, polystyrene).

Work progress:

1. We cut out the necessary parts from chipboard, connect them with a stapler.
2. The joints between the parts of the chipboard base must be the same. If this is not the case, smooth them out with sandpaper.
3. We make lining for ends.
4. We cut the facing part with the help of a grinder.
5. We glue the finishing material and fix it with light blows of a rubber hammer.
6. Install the end cap flush with the bottom edge of the countertop.
7. At the same time, glue the base and apron with glue.
8. When installing a laminate, we use separators. After installing the sheet, remove the separators.
9. Smoothen the surface with a roller.
10. Using a router, cut a hole under the sink.
11. When the structure is assembled, we grind all the edges.

Seam and edge protection

Any liquid always seeks and finds the lowest place on the surface. The joints are recesses, therefore vulnerable to water ingress. A considerable number of joints are available in cabinet furniture, where the main structural material is chipboard.

Because of high humidity and frequent contact with liquids, kitchen furniture is particularly vulnerable. The sink, countertop, furniture next to the stove are the most frequently wetted pieces of furniture in the house. An example is the part of the countertop that is in contact with the faucet. The faucet leaks sooner or later, which means that unprotected chipboard will inevitably get wet and collapse.

To protect the joints, we first clean these places and dry them with a hairdryer. Then we apply PVA glue to the joints, and when it dries, we treat the surface to be protected with silicone or, as an option, building sealant.

If there is no tray in the cupboard, then sooner or later the liquid flowing from the wet dishes will destroy the chipboard. Therefore, the material must be degreased, and then treated with a sealant.

We seal the seams with sanitary silicone of the corresponding furniture color. This will prevent the appearance of mold on the furniture.

In those places of the edge of the tabletop where there is no lamination, we install end or connecting strips. These elements can be made of metal or plastic. The slats are not perfect protection, so the edges still need to be pre-treated with sealant. Another common method of protecting chipboard is applying PVA glue or furniture varnish to the edges.

Floor joint protection

The main difficulty in protecting joints on the floor is that such plates are subject to increased mechanical loads and constantly shift slightly under loads. Because of this, the putty does not adhere well to chipboard.

To ensure the protection of the joints on the floor, the seams are processed epoxy resin mixed with sawdust. Moreover, sawdust should be very small - they must be sieved in advance.

Note! Epoxy-sawdust composition seizes extremely quickly. Based on this, you should not knead too much putty at once.

A mixture of epoxy and sawdust will reliably protect the joints, but the cost of such a solution is quite high. Epoxy resin can be replaced with wood glue. V hot glue you need to add sawdust, and then process the seams with the resulting composition. If everything is done correctly, the effect will be even better than with epoxy, since the glue penetrates deeper.

After processing the seams, the chipboard joints will become more resistant to moisture and, no less important, they will stop “playing” with each other. If you trim the chipboard with linoleum, you can no longer worry about the safety of the plates.

After processing the seams, it will take several days for the putty to dry. At this time, it is impossible to walk on the slabs, so as not to break the joints.

Coating chipboard with protective and finishing materials in many cases requires certain experience and qualifications, and sometimes the availability of special equipment. If there is no self-confidence, it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

For more than half a century, laying chipboard on the floor has been relevant for finishing floor covering. Continuous improvement of technology and technological processes improves the structure and improve the quality of chipboard.

The plate has become durable, moisture resistant, environmentally friendly. And if we take into account that the basis of the panel is woodworking waste, then in terms of price-quality, the plate is out of competition with other finishing materials. Like a subfloor, a chipboard base will last for decades, extending the life of the flooring.

Characteristics and use of chipboard

The slab is made from sawmill waste, carpentry and furniture woodworking; shavings, sawdust, chips. The product uses wood-shaving material of coniferous and hardwood, and a polymer thermosetting resin based on phenol-formaldehyde is used to bond the wood particles.

The quality of the panel depends on the dosage of the resin when applied to the wood particles, the lack or excess of the binder leads to the rejection of the product. In the manufacturing process, the boards are sanded, laminated, laminated and veneer is applied.

These panels can be finished not only on floors, but also on walls and ceilings.

By use, chipboard products are divided into general-purpose and special-purpose boards (made to order).

Building panels are used in the decoration of walls, indoor ceilings, and chipboard is laid on the floor as a finishing coating or a rough base.

According to the properties that determine the use of chipboard products, the panels belong to the P-A and P-B grades, distinguished by physical and mechanical indicators.

Chipboard properties

According to their physical and mechanical properties, chipboard belonging to the groups P - A and P - B, depending on the components used and additives to binder resins, differ in density, strength and water resistance to swelling.

Products of the P - A brand are used for finishing in residential premises, where the release of phenol and formaldehyde from the boards, harmful to human health, does not exceed the norm.

Panels with increased selection harmful substances are used on objects as auxiliary materials or temporary structures.

Chipboard characteristic

According to the properties of chipboard, they are chosen for finishing various objects. When choosing, it is important to find out everything about the panel manufacturer and view product certificates, which reflect laboratory testing of samples. The table shows the indicators of physical and mechanical properties of constantly produced products.

When choosing chipboard for use in a house or apartment, we check the product for the presence of phenol and formaldehyde in the composition of resins in order to prevent the use of panels with harmful emissions.

Draft floor from chipboard on logs

In damp rooms, particle boards quickly become unusable

The use of chipboard as a base for flooring is justified economically and technically. But, using panels, we take into account the operating conditions of products. In a room where the humidity is above 60% and the temperature is below 10°C, the plates swell and collapse.

This also applies to laying panels on the concrete floor of the first floors of multi-storey buildings. And the draft floor is made of chipboard on the logs, the right decision for long-term operation of plates. The slab base raised above the concrete creates flat surface on which the coating will last no less than the standard period.

Work order

Chipboard laying scheme

Before laying the logs, we prepare the concrete floor, level the surface concrete screed. We lay the beams on concrete and connect them with jumpers into a rigid frame.

A heater is laid between the lags and lintels, which, together with the chipboard flooring, creates heat and sound insulation of the base. It is easy to assemble a rough floor from chipboard with your own hands, given the procedure for step-by-step instructions:

1. After dismantling the old floor, we level the surface of the concrete base along the exposed beacons with a concrete mix screed.
2. We apply a primer on the dried screed and check the horizontalness of the base surface with a laser level. Then unfolds polyethylene film for guard wooden frame with insulation from the dampness of concrete. Lay the rows of film overlap and connect with adhesive tape.
3. Logs and lintels are covered with an antiseptic solution and mounted on a concrete floor. The step between the lags is 400 mm. The section of the log is T-shaped, to increase the surface of the beam when joining panels. The top board, 100 mm wide, is attached to the beam from above and is the basis for joining the plates.
   
4. Between themselves, the logs are connected by jumpers, which are attached to the logs. metal corners and screws. The assembled structure is checked by a level for the horizontalness of each log. In case of horizontal deviation, plastic plates are placed under the logs in sagging places.
5. After installation, the structure of the beams is filled with insulation, on a pre-laid waterproofing film. The insulation is laid between the lags, with a gap of 3 cm to the upper edge of the structure.
6. The laid insulation boards are covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the logs with stapler brackets. The joints of the film rows are sealed with adhesive tape so that moisture does not penetrate into the insulation.
7. Chipboard for the floor is laid on logs according to the scheme prepared during the creation of the project. The floor of the slabs is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joining of the panels is carried out on logs spaced according to the size of the chipboard sheets. The first row of plates spreads along the wall opposite the entrance to the room and is fixed to the beams with self-tapping screws. So that the hardware does not protrude above the panels, the holes in the products for the screws are drilled and countersunk. The second row is laid with an offset to the span between the lags, a panel is cut out to the left area to fit the span. The remaining rows are stacked in the same sequence in a checkerboard pattern. The draft floor is laid with a compensating gap of 1.5 cm from the walls, which is affected by the changing humidity in the room.
8. After completing the assembly of products, the joints of the panels are rubbed with putty and the surface of the flooring is primed. Along the perimeter of the room, along the walls, the expansion gap is closed with a plinth. The plinth is fixed to the walls of the room. For information on how to mount the coating on the logs, see this video:

   A strong and rigid frame made of beams and lintels, tightly pressed against the walls of the room and is not attached to concrete base anchors.

   The use of a frame made of beams, for the base of the floor covering, allows you to separate the chipboard flooring from concrete floor and insulate the floor, keeping the heat in the room.

   Chipboard floor on wooden base

   
   Leveling a chipboard floor is not difficult

   Any flooring is laid on a wooden floor, but to serve normative term floors laid on a solid and even base will be able to. This base is old restored floor slats or chipboard.

   Leveling a chipboard floor is a simple task and is done on your own. Getting started with the repair of the old wooden base. We check the logs and floor slats for the presence of rot, wormholes, mechanical damage and replace the defective ones. We cover the logs with an antiseptic solution, we rally the floor boards so that there are no gaps left.

   We stretch the wooden coating with an electric planer, remove old paint and level the surface. After checking the horizontalness of the surface with a laser level, the base is primed.

   Logs for the base frame and floor board for flooring are used with a humidity of not more than 12%. Before installation, the materials are treated with an antiseptic.

   Laying chipboard on the floor, the prepared old floor covering from the floor lath, is carried out according to the scheme, which reflects the estimated number of plates. The layout of the panels on the floor of the room is made in a checkerboard pattern and provides for a compensation gap of 1.5 cm of chipboard flooring from the walls of the room.

   Before assembling the flooring under the chipboard, we lay a jute underlay to level out the errors of the wooden base and maintain air exchange between the paneling and the wooden floor. We begin the installation of chipboard on the floor by processing the boards with drying oil and drilling holes on the panels for fixing screws, we cover the edges of the boards with silicone sealant.

   
   Plates are laid from the far corner

   We lay the plates from the corner of the wall opposite the entrance to the room, compressing the rows of laid out panels with wedges. Plates of the first row through the prepared holes with self-tapping screws are attached to wooden floor with a gap of 1.5 cm from the wall.

   So that the joints of the plates do not coincide in the rows, we lay the 2nd row with a shift by half the plate. We cut one plate in half and apply sealant to the ends. We lay half of the plates at the beginning and end of the row. We compress the row with mounting wedges and fasten the panels with self-tapping screws to the wooden base.

   We lay the rest of the chipboard in a checkerboard pattern. If it is provided for in the scheme, then we cut off the last row of plates in order to lay them tightly against the wall. At the end of the laying of the flooring, we close the expansion gap with a plinth, fasten it to the walls of the room. For information on how to level the floor with slabs of this material, see this video:

   If the chipboard coating was provided as a front one, then we cover the plates with two layers of wear-resistant varnish and after the varnish has dried, the coating is ready for use. And if it was planned to use the flooring from the plates as a subfloor, then we lay laminate or linoleum on it.

   For the long-term operation of the floor covering, a base made of concrete, a frame of beams or a floor board is carried out without deviating from the step-by-step instructions.

Today, the use of recycling waste for the manufacture of secondary materials is very popular. Such products include chipboard, which is currently used as the basis for the construction of various types of products.

This substance has good technical performance, which made it possible to replace them to some extent, even wood. Chipboard is processed with special tools that allow you to obtain parts of certain sizes and shapes. You can find more details where you can also purchase these mechanisms.

We use solutions

Chipboard is trimmed very often, since in production it is made in sheets of a certain length. Many types of different products are subsequently made from them, ranging from ordinary partitions to complex furniture. This material is often coated (laminated) with a special paint.

You can process the butt with several substances:

1. Waterproof adhesive. This is done primarily to protect it from moisture.

2. Special sealants. These substances have the same purpose as the previous type.

3. Paint. If you need to give beautiful view product, then the end can be covered with any paint, choosing it to match the color of the object.

We use a special tape

All factory-made chipboard products always have an attractive appearance, but even they have ends. To hide them, a special edging tape. It is attached to the edge with a special tool.

Such products can be mounted at home. This material sticks to the end face of the chipboard when heated. This property is used in technological processes.

At home, this can be done with an iron, which is used to heat this product and attach it to the edge of the workpiece.

To give the product an aesthetic shape, the end can be sanded with a special tool and coated with special paint and varnish. In such cases, you can apply different types putties that are designed to work with this type of material.

Edge processing is a very responsible process, since in most cases not only the appearance, but also the operating time of the entire product depends on it. To obtain high-quality products from chipboard, you should use only special tools that will greatly facilitate the work and allow you to create modern beautiful products.

Video instruction for gluing the edge on the end of the chipboard to help you: