How to fix the cable on the ceiling. Mounting the cable to the ceiling: options and methods

23.06.2020

To date, any premises (residential, office or other purposes) are unthinkable without laying communications in the fences. These are wired electrical networks, television and Internet cables. Long gone are the days when cable attachment to the wall, including electrical wiring, was performed only outside the fences. This was done due to the imperfection of the insulating coatings of the conductors.

Modern polymer coatings make it possible to "hide" cable and wire communications in an array of room fences. In some cases, they make the wiring open or lay cables in plastic boxes. The most common ways of fastening wires and cables to walls and ceilings are discussed in the article.

Types of fastening of cable and wire communications

There are many ways and types of fastening wires and cables to walls. The following are often found among them.

open wiring

Includes:

quick-drying solution;
dowel-clamp;
dowel-screed;
clips;
installation site;
nail clips.

Fast drying solution

Fixing with a quick-drying solution is the easiest way to fasten a wire. You can fix the wire to unplastered brickwork with alabaster or other quick-drying mortar using a spatula. They do it like this:

One or more wires are pulled along the cement joints of brick or cinder block masonry;
Alabaster, gypsum or a quick-drying special mixture are diluted with water;
Given the specific gravity of the cable or wires, the worker attaches communications to the brickwork with a spatula with alabaster;
The installation of the cable or wires is carried out gradually as the applied cakes solidify from the solution.

Important! It is necessary to ensure that the alabaster is most connected with the seam of the masonry. This ensures high adhesion of the fixing on the walls.

In this way, communications are carried out in non-residential and utility rooms. As a rule, such fasteners are temporary.

There are situations when fastening for a cable with a quick-drying mortar to a brick or concrete wall will be ineffective and will not withstand the required load. Then it is better to use dowel clamps. The cable fastener is a plastic loop with an end in the form of a dowel with ribbed edges. Outwardly, the clamp resembles a bracket. Fasten the wiring with dowels in this order:

in the wall along the marked line, holes are made with a puncher with a depth of 30-40 mm and a diameter of 6 mm;
holes are made at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other;
the cable is threaded through the loops, the dowels are inserted with a serrated end into the mounting hole by hand or with a slight blow of a hammer.

Installation of wiring is carried out in a short time, provides reliable fastening conductors to the wall.

The dowel-screed is similar to the dowel-clamp. The difference from the "brother" is that the loop is able to tighten. This ensures reliable fastening of several conductors into a tight bundle.

The installation of dowel-screeds is carried out in the same way as the installation of dowel-clamps. After wiring, the end of the loop protruding from the lock is tightened with pliers.

Clips

The fastener is made of durable plastic. The clip is a platform with mounting holes and two brackets.

Clips for fastening cables in the form of clips are mounted in this way:

along the marking line of the cable route, using a perforator, make mounting holes ø 4 mm;
plastic dowels are hammered into the holes;
clips are installed on the wall, driving screws through the fastener holes in the dowels;
the cable or a series of wires is pressed into the clips, the upper and lower bracket of the fastener clamps the wiring, holding it securely on the wall.

Note! Clips are selected according to the size of the cross section of the wiring. The size of the fastener should be such that none of the brackets break, and at the same time, the bundle of wires should be tight enough.

The clips serve as a reliable support for fastening the corrugations. Cable and wires are pulled inside the corrugations. The hoses are secured with clips. The advantage of corrugated hoses is that they can easily be bent at an angle.

First choose corrugation desired diameter and then choose clips with suitable internal dimension staples.

This simple mount uses a self-adhesive effect. The protective film is removed from the outside of the site. The platform is pressed against the wall. Fasteners are securely glued to the surface of the vertical fence. There is a special hook on the platform that clamps the cable.

The disadvantage of such fasteners is the weak load bearing capacity. The sites are intended mainly for laying a single Internet or television cable. In extreme cases, several thin wires can be pulled through the pads.

This type of fastener is used to fix low-current wires (telephone wires, TV cables, etc.). The nail clip is securely held in the wooden wall.

Sometimes they are hammered into a plastered wall, but they do not hold there well. Staples need to be hammered into plaster in much larger quantities than they do in wooden walls. If there is a rack under the plaster, then you need to hit the tree with a carnation.

Hidden wiring

A universal way of laying communications is hidden wiring. The method has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages

Lack of technical details on the surface of the fences of the premises;
The interior of the rooms does not "suffer" from the presence of wiring on the walls, spoiling appearance walls;
Simple and reliable installation of electrical wiring does not cause any particular difficulties.

Flaws

The disadvantages of hidden wiring include the fact that when changing or adding conductors, you have to open the strobes. The production of works is associated with the occurrence of a large amount of dust and subsequent wet processes.

During repairs, you have to search for old wires under a layer of plaster and top coat.

Flush-mounted wiring device in the wall

Marking points for installing electrical fittings are applied to the walls and ceiling;
Then draw a line with a marker or pencil to punch the strobe. The width and depth of the strobe depends on the number of wires, the diameter of the cable;
A puncher punches strobes along the marking lines;
Otherwise, two parallel cuts are made with an abrasive wheel along the marking line;
With a chisel and a hammer, concrete or brick is knocked out in the cut zone. If the material of the wall lends itself with difficulty, then they pierce the strobe with a perforator, with a chisel tip installed;
Cables and wires are laid in the channels;
The wiring is fixed with alabaster in increments of 300-400 mm;
Laid communications are covered with a layer cement mortar with a spatula, but not flush with the surface of the wall;
Then putty with the starting lineup;
The final putty is applied;
The dried putty is polished with emery, bringing it to a smooth state;
finally produce finishing walls.

Additional Information. In order to provide reliable protection, the wiring is placed in a polymer sheath - corrugation.

Corrugated hoses are produced in different diameters, which are designed for laying from one cable to a whole bundle of various conductors. Corrugation allows you to replace one or another wire without disturbing the outer coating of the channel. When laying communications in the corrugation, they try to avoid creating right angles for laying paths.

When replacing a separate cable, a cord is attached to its end. Then the conductor is pulled out of the corrugation. A new cable is tied to the cord and a new cable is pulled in the reverse order.

Plastic boxes

In order not to punch strobes in the walls, you can get by with a less time-consuming method of attaching cables and electrical wiring to the walls. Industry building materials manufactures a large assortment plastic boxes. Products can be selected in the desired cross-section and color.

The fixture consists of two parts: a box and a cover. The lid snaps tightly onto the box body. The cable channel is attached to the wall with dowels. Communications are invested in plastic products. The channels are then covered with outer panels.

Recently, soft PVC boxes can be found on sale. The advantage lies in their extreme flexibility. Thanks to this quality, it is possible to bypass any corners, both internal and external, with one channel strip. It is not necessary to connect rigid panels to each other in the corners with special fittings. It is enough to bend the box in the right direction, lay the cables in it and close the channel with the same flexible cover.

plinth

The designers at one time realized that the interior of the plinth can be used for laying cable and wire communications. Currently, the building materials market offers a wide range of models of skirting boards with the possibility of placing fixed cables and wires inside them.

The design of some skirting boards consists of a rectangular channel divided by a stop. The stop divides the inner space of the plinth into two channels. The channels are closed by a figured strip having a longitudinal latch. The latch fits snugly into the longitudinal groove of the stop.

The base of the plinth is fixed with dowels to the wall. Dowels are installed at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. For the formation of internal and external corners set special fittings. After laying the cable and wires, put the top panel, snapping the lock.

Every year the number electrical appliances simplifying the life of people, increases significantly, which leads to an increase in connection points in residential buildings, and consequently, wiring. All these wires still need to be hidden somewhere and fixed somewhere.

There are many interesting and unusual ways to mount the cable on the wall. When choosing specific method they try to find the best solution that will not spoil the appearance of the room and will allow you to comply with all electrical safety rules. Among other components, a dowel-clamp for attaching the cable stands out. These fasteners are economical, because they use materials as rationally as possible.

What is the wiring for?

There are many various ways installation of electrical wiring, but regardless of the chosen one, it must be fixed. Even in the case of hidden laying in strobes made in the vertical or horizontal plane of the wall, the cable should be securely fastened, and after that the holes should be plastered. Not a single wire should extend beyond the edges of the strobe and interfere with the plastering and finishing.

The situation is similar for open laying. The cable must be securely fixed throughout the entire length of the electrical line, and only after that it should be hidden inside the corrugations, special boxes and other decorative items. The same should be done when laying behind suspended and stretch ceilings.

You can fix the wire on almost any walls - brick, plasterboard and wood. To perform work using dowel clamps, it is advisable to prepare a drill or puncher with a set of suitable drills.

Mounting options for cable routing

Let's consider the main methods that allow you to fix the wires with a puncher.

Dowel-tie for fixing flat and round wires

First you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 6 mm. Then place the cable inside the clamp and push or hammer it into the hole. This is an economical, fast approach that eliminates the protrusion of parts when installed in strobes on walls. The option is suitable for fixing corrugated pipes.

Cable tie with dowel hole

Another economical way, since the purchase costs Supplies minimal. Take a plastic dowel (you won't need anything else). Takes up minimal space.

Mounting platform square

The beginning is similar to the first option: drill a 6 mm hole, drive a wooden chop or plastic dowel-clamp inside it, and then screw the pressure plate to the wall with a screw. Next, the cable is pressed against the plate using a conventional tie.

Plastic dowel with a hole for a tie

The operation is identical to the previous one: instead of a pressure plate, the screed is threaded through the dowel head.

Clips for corrugated pipe

The clip is attached with a dowel and a self-tapping screw screwed into it. The size of the clip depends on the dimensions of the corrugated pipe. The main advantage is the ability to assemble clip-on blocks connected by locks. Blocks can be used to create complex electrical systems.

metal brace

If the wire is placed inside a metal sleeve, then it should be fastened with brackets. As in the case of clips, their size depends on the dimensions of the protective element (metal hose).

Platform with self-adhesive backing

If the wires are laid on a metal surface that cannot be drilled, then the only way out is to use self-adhesive pads. Their design involves the use of an adhesive backing hidden under protective film. Remove it and attach the product to a clean surface. To fix the cable, ordinary ties are used. A similar installation method is relevant for large switchboards.

The structure of the dowel clamps

In fact, the product consists of two separate electrical components. The cable is attracted to the dowel installed in the wall using a clamp - an adjustable plastic bracket. Installation consists of two stages:

At the first, the dowel is hammered or twisted into the wall (where a hole of a suitable size is made in advance).
On the second, the clamp is threaded through the dowel and pulls the cable to the wall.

The simplest dowel-clamp consists of a curved plastic strip 7-9 mm wide with teeth.

Advantages and disadvantages

There are many advantages to this method, but we will list a few of the main ones:

cost-effectiveness - for installation you need to buy one part (a set of three separate ones is not required - a screw, a dowel and a clamp);
simplicity and ease of installation - you need to fix one part, not three separate ones;
for the production of the product, polyamide plastic is taken that can withstand extremely low and high temperatures (usually the range is from -45 to +85 degrees Celsius);
UV protection;
free access to wires, if necessary - quick and timely repairs;
high cable carrying capacity.

Among the shortcomings are the following:

despite the fact that plastic does not support combustion, when exposed to high temperatures, it deforms;
irrelevant for living rooms, apartments and private houses in general, since open cable laying is practically not used here.

Product varieties

Dowel clamps do not differ in a wide variety of categories and types, since they are highly specialized products. However, there are options for design features and material of manufacture. For example, metal and plastic.

By design features

This criterion allows us to distinguish three main types of fastening:

Staples are ordinary plastic strips with teeth to prevent reverse. Suitable for fastening wiring with a total diameter of 6-25 mm. The number of components depends on the weight of the cable. The technology can be used to fasten corrugations and smooth pipes of the same diameter.
Mounting platform with clamp. By revising this product you will find a plastic dowel with standard teeth, the end of which is equipped with a rectangular loop. The clamp must be threaded through the loop and fix the cable. Dignity this method- the ability to tighten the corrugation or bundles of wiring of different diameters.
Struts or "helicopters". The design involves the use of a dowel with a loop, inside which you need to insert a plastic rod for spacers. The maximum allowable load is 8 kg. It is possible to fasten cables, bundles of wires, corrugation with a diameter of up to 32 mm. Spacer dowel clamps are divided into two separate varieties. In the first case, the product is solid, the rod is installed in the dowel and driven into the wall along with it. The rigidity of the structure increases, but when working with it, care must be taken, since at first the cable or corrugation is threaded through the clamp, and after that the dowel is hammered into the wall.
The second type of spacer dowel-clamps is an arcuate fastener without a loop. In this case, you can install a corrugation, a wire or a bundle of cables of a fixed diameter. That is, there is no suitable range, and the cable diameter must match the diameter of the arc. There are spacers with one or two arcs for parallel fastening of two corrugated pipes or wires.

According to the materials for the manufacture of the screed

We are talking about the choice of material for the manufacture of cable fasteners. Ties (clamps) can be made of nylon, polyethylene or polypropylene. Let's consider each of them separately:

The most popular material is nylon. This is due to the increased strength and maximum load of polyamide components compared to polyester (which includes the other two types of plastic). The material can be operated at temperatures up to +85 degrees. Celsius. Higher temperatures lead to a reduction in the tensile strength of the nylon tie by 5-10 times. Great for cable and wire bundles, but unsuitable for fixing heated pipes.
Polyethylene clamps are cheaper products with increased sensitivity to ultraviolet light, so they cannot be used under open sky. You can use dowel-clamps made of stabilized polyethylene, but even in this case, fragility increases over time and the bearing capacity of products decreases.
Polypropylene ties are strong and rigid products compared to polyethylene, but also sensitive to light. By adding a stabilizer, the UV resistance can be increased, but the cost of the components will be increased. Since installation is often carried out inside buildings, sensitivity to ultraviolet light is not such a noticeable drawback.

Dowel fastener for cable

Regardless of the type of dowel-clamps, the main condition is the presence of a hole in the wall into which it will be hammered.

Calculation of the number of dowels

When calculating the number of dowel-clamps on cable line several factors should be taken into account:

the maximum weight that one dowel can withstand (prescribed in the quality certificate or technological passport);
diameter - depends on the dimensions of the corrugation or cable bundles;
length - related to the maximum weight, but also indicates the thickness of the bearing surface (the indicator is especially relevant when fastening to plywood or chipboard);
the material of the wall or ceiling to which the dowel-clamp is attached - the fastener must withstand installation into the wall, and any deformation significantly reduces the maximum allowable load.

Hidden wiring

Consider the main options for fixing the cable when hidden gasket using dowel clamps.

Dowel clamp for flat cable

Fasteners are ideal for fixing a single flat wire. After drilling the holes, the cable is laid, and then the dowel-clamp is nailed to the desired surface.

A similar element is developed specifically for a round cable or corrugated pipe. This The best way when the corrugation is placed under a false ceiling, which provides a reliable and one-piece fixation. Do not forget to choose a dowel-clamp for the diameter of the corrugation or cable to be fixed.

Self-adhesive pad

It was written above that self-adhesive pads should be used for metal surfaces. Then the cable is fixed to the substrate on the wall with a nylon tie.

Another option is to drill a hole and install an anchor into which a self-tapping screw is screwed, previously threaded through the platform. The tie allows you to connect the cable to the substrate. The option is suitable for fixing thin wires of UTP and CAT categories, but for electrical wiring practically useless.

Fixation with cable ties

You can use special cable ties that are suitable for heavier wiring with large gauge cables. Products provide reliable protection against mechanical damage, maintain the integrity of the insulation and are suitable for single- and stranded wires of different voltages.

outdoor wiring

And now let's talk about cable attachment options for open laying.

How to fix a thin cable

In this case, you can use nail clips suitable for television or telephone wire. Clamps should be selected in a size that will match the diameter of the cable. On the other hand, finding the right product is problematic. There are often situations where the nails are too short or the plastic is constantly breaking.

Consider alternative method. Stock up on wire cutters, thin nails and pieces of clamps.

Do the following:

Drive a nail into one of the ends of the clamps.
Insert the wire and bend the free end of the clamp.
Drive the nail into the wall, adjusting the diameter of the staple to fit the cable dimensions.

Fixation for low voltage cable with clips

Mounting gun - the best way for fastening corrugations or wires to a solid concrete wall. To do this, attach the mounting pad to the muzzle and fire. Under the corrugation, ordinary 16 mm clips are suitable, the installation of which is carried out using a self-tapping screw and a dowel. Dimensions are selected strictly according to the diameter of the pipe.

The main advantage of clips is the possibility of laying several wires at the same time, the disadvantage is high financial costs compared to other methods that involve the use of other fasteners.

Fastening the wire with a screwdriver

Junction boxes are attached in several basic ways, including the use of self-tapping screws and dowels. But not everyone mounting gun suitable for working with them: when fired from more powerful models, the box can simply shatter into pieces. It is best to pre-drill a hole with a diameter of 10 mm, then fix the box with a screwdriver.

Important! It's best to shoot black mounting pads, as white ones are often less durable and fall apart quickly.

Device cable channels

For open wiring, special cable channels can be used. They are sold at any hardware store. Screws are used for fixing to the wall. Stronger concrete walls should be punched with anchors, and then screws should be screwed in. Parts are easy to dismantle and reuse, they withstand the load exerted by the structure.

Despite the wide variety of fasteners for fixing cables, corrugations and bundles of wires, dowel clamps are the simplest and most convenient components, ideal for open laying of electrical wiring. For apartments, the option is less popular, since often the wiring is hidden. For industrial purposes, dowel clamps will be the best solution.

Content:

Electrical networks connect various sources of electricity with consumers by wires and cables. Depending on the magnitude of the voltage, all components of these networks are divided into those up to 1000 volts, as well as into several groups of more high voltage. Largest number consumers have voltages up to 1000 volts. Accordingly, in this group, the structure of the power grid is the most complex. Since there are many consumers, it means that the wires and cables connecting them are numerous and therefore must be ordered.

Safety of electricians and PUE

Just in case, we remind you that electricity is a source of increased danger. And in some cases, the work of an electrician is compared with the work of a miner who makes a mistake once. Therefore, in electrical engineering, a kind of charter is used, called the PUE (“Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations”). Most of the fundamental electrical nuances in these rules are mentioned and are mandatory. Including the requirements for electrical wiring, including its fastenings, which will be discussed later.

The PUE refers to several types of cable and wire fastenings. Consider first the external wiring. It can be either hidden or open in its execution. In an open way, it is convenient to lay cables along the walls of buildings or strong, for example, reinforced concrete fences. This will require fixing the cable or wire on the wall, performed with a certain step.

Such a tough string

In order to reduce the number of mounting holes in the wall, a string is used.

It is a thin cable or steel wire (tape) stretched along the wall. Wires and cables, both single and in the form of bundles, are much easier to attach to this string. But this is true in comparison with direct fastening to the wall of a cable or wire only with a large length of the fixed part.

At one time, an instruction was approved that detailed all aspects of this type of fastener:

Those who wish to get acquainted with the full amount of information on this topic will find it in the instructions mentioned above. The article will reflect its main points.

When attaching cables to a string, it is important to do this taking into account the presence of a metal protective sheath. If a cable with such a sheath is laid, a gasket made of elastic material is needed at the attachment point. Its thickness is from 0.3 mm, and it is made wider than the mounting bracket by 3–4 mm. In more detail, the place of the fastener is illustrated by the images below:

For cables without a metal sheath, gaskets are not installed.

When the cable or wire is deflected away from the string, the radius is made according to the values \u200b\u200bspecified in Table 1:
Mounting brackets are located along the string with the optimal pitch:

0.5 m (but not less) on horizontal sections;
1.0 m (but not less) on vertical sections.

The string is pulled by a winch close to the bearing surface. If this surface is a plaster of a brick wall, plastic dowels are used.
When manually tensioned, the string covers the intermediate fastener. If the tension is made with a winch, the string is tied to this element.
The wire or cable is attached to the string with mounting tape K-226 or its equivalent.

If it is necessary to estimate the load on the string depending on the number and total mass of the group of attached conductors, it is recommended to use the data on the supporting cables (see below):

The junction box can also be attached to the string only if mounting on a load-bearing surface is a less efficient solution.
If the bearing surface contains protrusions, the string is attached to their tops, as shown in the image below:

The carrier string is certainly grounded (zeroed).

Direct attachment to the bearing surface

A prerequisite for a horizontal arrangement of cables is a rigid attachment to the bearing surface at the end points, on both sides of the bend and near the couplings.
With a vertical arrangement, massive cables are fastened so that their weight is distributed over the points of attachment to the bearing surface and does not cause both their own deformations (external and internal) and connection failures.
If there is a high probability of undesirable impact on the sheath of the cable or wire from the bearing surface, it is necessary to apply elastic pads at the points of contact.

The base of the box

The box can be considered as a type of gasket that is effective at every point of contact between the cable and the bearing surface. But in combination with the role of fasteners. A group of cables is often laid in it. They are fixed both in bunches and in several layers. As a result, the lower layers and individual cables are pressed by the wires located above.

In boxes, group fastening of cables is done with the distribution of the load on the fastener elements to relieve pressure on the lower wires.

For this, as well as for the purpose of functional separation, harnesses are made using corrugated clamps and pipes, as shown in the image below. The design of the box should allow clamps to be fastened through perforation or otherwise. For example, through holes drilled in it.

Flexible clamps

The use of plastic cable ties for outdoor installations is not recommended in continental climates. Heat and frost eventually make the screed material brittle. Especially if the screed is tightened, and the thermal expansion of the cable is significantly greater than that of it. To secure the plastic ties, the same ones made of stainless steel are put in two or three. They will hold the cable in case of damage to the rest of the plastic fasteners. Damaged clamps can be replaced with new ones.

In combination with dowels

The tightening clamp with a hole for a self-tapping screw is suitable as an independent element for fastening the cable to the bearing surface. In this case, reliable fixation of the self-tapping screw in it is necessary. This can always be obtained by drilling a hole and installing a dowel. There are several constructive varieties of dowels adapted for surfaces with different features. Some of them are shown below:

A cable tie with a hole paired with a dowel of the required design is the most versatile cable fastening option.
The clamp must be selected according to the loading weight if it is used on a ceiling or wall.

If the weight exceeds the passport values, a crack will appear in the hole area, and the clamp will have to be replaced with a more powerful one. Otherwise, it will most likely fall off the bearing surface, and the destruction of the clamps can develop further according to the domino principle.

Special dowels are provided for fixing the cable with clamps-screeds on brick and concrete bearing surfaces. One design combines two in one. This is a dowel clamp:

Its use will be best as a cable fastener on the wall. This will require a minimum of time and financial costs due to the lack of self-tapping screws. On the ceiling, this type of fastener can be used, but only for light cables.

Another design is a dowel for screeds. This constructive solution somewhat less convenient to install, since you will need to thread a screed through it. In the landing hole, this dowel is held more securely. Otherwise, the properties of this fastener are similar to HD.

But still, a metal self-tapping screw in a special dowel provides the most strong connection with bearing surface. Therefore, for heavy cable bundles and the most reliable installations, a mounting pad is recommended. It is also preferred for attaching the cable to the ceiling.

Staples

It is obvious that the price of the clamp-tie increases proportionately. And part of this fastener is bitten off and thrown away after the installation is completed. Therefore, for single cables, this installation method is not optimal. The simplest fastener for a cable on a brick or concrete wall is a bracket. Its design variants are adapted to the diameter of the conductor being held:

For a stronger fixation of the bracket in the mounting hole, it is filled with alabaster or glue. This type of fastener is the weakest in terms of adhesion to the bearing surface and is used only for walls. But on the other hand, it is the fastest in installation and the cheapest. For cables in a corrugation or pipe, a type of dowel-bracket is used:

But the dismantling of a corrugation or a pipe with brackets can only be done by destroying the latter. For the possibility of multiple installations of corrugations and pipes on the same route with the same fasteners, clips are used. Their dimensions correspond to the applied corrugation or pipe. The result is an elastic detachable connection. Clips can be placed on the wall without restrictions. It is permissible to use them on the ceiling, but with refinement. The jaws of the clip must be covered with a glued thread or wire twist. When uninstalling the cable, it is cut and thrown away.

But you can do without finalizing the clips by using a more expensive model with a lock:

When arranging wiring, one of the tasks is the correct fastening of the cable. It should not take much time, but it should be reliable and secure.

Fasteners for the cable are selected depending on the method of its laying and the base material to which the wire will be fixed. Let's start with material selection.

Depending on the type of material

All bases are divided into soft and hard, but there are also thin and brittle ones. Soft bases include wood, plaster can also be counted here. If you need to attach the cable to these bases, nails or self-tapping screws are most often used. The process of installing fasteners is known to everyone and does not take much time.

Rigid foundations include concrete, reinforced concrete, brick. Fasteners with dowels (dowel-nails) are installed in such bases. The process of installing the dowel is longer - you have to first drill holes and insert plastic stopper, only then install the fasteners. But in such materials it is inevitable. An exception - brickwork. If the fasteners are placed in the seam, you can get by with nails. But the fastening in this case will not be very reliable.

Fragile foundations. This category includes drywall and building blocks made of lightweight cellular concrete of any type. For these bases, there are special dowels that have a larger stop area than standard ones. Also for lightweight cellular concrete, there is fasteners on glue.

Special butterfly dowels for installation in drywall or foam concrete

Thin bases. These are plastic, fiberboard, chipboard and other similar materials. If you need to fix the cable on such a surface, use thin studs, staples, with a small number of conductors, glue-based fasteners are used. Usually these are small plastic elements, on the back of which an adhesive tape with a protective strip is fixed. During installation protective strip removed, the fastener is installed on the glue. It will not withstand heavy loads, but you can streamline the wiring harness that goes to the desktop.

Nails, screws or dowels?

Most of the standard fasteners can be fixed either with nails or self-tapping screws, or with dowels. In accordance with the type of material, its strength and density, choose the type of fasteners.

There are also a few exceptions. For example, U-brackets from construction stapler can only be installed in soft bases or in chipboard, and dowel clips are not suitable for them.

Installation rules

Regardless of the type of fastener chosen, it is worth observing simple rules for its location. In this case, the cable fastening will be reliable.

It's all general rules cable fasteners. This is not a dogma, but their implementation facilitates the work and guarantees normal results.

Fasteners for open laying

With the open method, gaskets try to use the least noticeable types of fasteners. Such a cable attachment cannot be completely invisible, but it may not attract attention.

We must try to make the cable invisible ....

Staples from a construction stapler

If your household has a stapler, fixing a small diameter low-voltage cable can be quick and easy. On sale there are special U-shaped brackets. They are designed just for this purpose. There are two types:

There are also special cable cleats with a plastic housing (pictured right). They are more expensive, but because of the plastic case, there is less chance of crushing the cores or damaging the insulation.

Staples can be made of galvanized steel, they can be made of stainless steel. The legs can be ordinary, they can be pointed. The second option is easier to enter even into dense bases such as chipboard. As you understand, this fastener is not used for serious conductors, but for wired Internet, telephone, etc. very convenient.

Staples and clips

Cable fastening of different diameters is most often done using brackets and clips. They are made from metal and highly durable plastic. Plastic clips are used to fix wires indoors, metal clips can also be used outdoors. The metal can be galvanized, painted, but it is better to find stainless steel for outdoor use.

The most inconspicuous of the clips are small plastic staples with studs (upper left corner in the photo). They are used when it is necessary to stretch one strand of cable. The work is progressing quickly - put, drove carnations. The remaining brackets are more visible, but more powerful and tougher wires can hold.

There are also plastic clips for fastening the corrugated containment to the wall. They are in the form of rulers of several pieces, there are one at a time. So you can fix both a single conductor and a group of cables.

The same clips can be used to attach cables of suitable diameter. For very hard conductors, it is better to use metal staples, and for conductors of medium hardness, these are also suitable. Clip-on clips with a latch are good for these purposes (pictured below on the left). They can also be used to secure cables to the ceiling.

Based on dowels

There are cable fasteners based on plastic dowels. The plastic used is heavy-duty, so the area of use is not limited - it can be placed in both brick and concrete walls. There are several types:

All these types of fasteners are inexpensive, but they do their job well. They are even better to use than with metal nails - less chance of damaging the insulation. Since they are inexpensive, you can fix the cables in the strobe with them.

Fastening the cable in the strobe

With hidden laying in non-combustible bases, the cables are laid in a special groove cut in the wall. These grooves are called strobes, and the process is called strobe or strobe. To keep the cable in this groove and not fall out, it must be fixed in some way. There are several fixing methods:

Features of combustible bases

If hidden wiring is done in combustible walls - wooden, frame, etc. - according to fire safety requirements, they must be laid in a non-combustible protective sheath. A non-combustible casing is either corrugated hoses made of non-combustible plastics, or all-metal boxes. When using corrugated hoses, the fixing method is the same as when fixing the cable. The difference is in the diameters of the required fasteners.

When using metal boxes, they are fixed in the wall, and then the cables are laid in the trays. This method is more often used in frame housing construction, because the shaving of channels in wooden walls significantly reduces their heat-insulating properties. In addition, a wooden house is constantly changing its size and rigidly fixed boxes can be a problem. When laying wiring in wooden houses, they often use open laying in cable channels or do it.

Large bundles of wires

Often, when wiring electrical wiring, it is necessary to lay a large number of cables. To minimize the time for attaching large bundles of wires, you can:

You can also use a combination of these methods. When using tape, it is attached at the edges. Due to its rigidity, it holds even rigid conductors or corrugated sheaths well. If necessary, fasteners can also be installed between the cables, but care must be taken not to damage the insulation.

How to fix cables to the ceiling

If there are not very many cables on the ceiling, you can use the usual fasteners - clamps, ties, clips, homemade clamps, etc. But it is inconvenient to install them - you have to work with your hands up for a long time, and even hold a tool, a cable in them. Hard work.

If the ceiling is suspended, the cables can be fixed to the hangers. In this case, ordinary plastic clamps (puffs) are used, which fix the wires above the level of the future ceiling. In order not to damage the sheath or even the cores, it is better to lay the wires in a protective corrugated hose. It will also make the wiring safer from a fire safety point of view.

Large bundles of cables on the ceiling are easier to lay in trays. They are wire and metal (from solid metal and perforated). In apartments and houses, they usually use wire. They cost and weigh less. They are attached to the ceiling on adjustable suspensions.

Such cable fastening also requires the installation of hangers, but the number of fasteners is much less. Another plus of this method of laying cables is that it is easy to replace or lay new ones if necessary. Minus - the trays are not very cheap.

How to organize bundles of wires

More and more appliances appear in our homes and all of them have wires. About a dozen wires often stretch to the desktop. So that they do not get confused, it is better to arrange them. There are different types of plastic pads for this. Some collect wires in bundles, while the latter, on the contrary, allow each thread to be carried separately.

Part of this cable fastener goes under screws or nails, part is based on Velcro. The second option can be safely installed on furniture. The adhesive adheres well to laminated or lacquered surfaces and there is no need to drill holes.

Fastening to poles and walls with air mounting method

When laying cables in the air, it is necessary to attach them to poles, walls of buildings and other objects. There are fasteners for self-supporting and conventional cables. Ordinary cables between poles without support cannot be suspended - they will not withstand the load and will break. For such conductors, a cable is stretched between the supports and a cable is already attached to it on suspensions. In this case, the load falls on the cable, and not on the cable. There are any ways to fasten the cable, but the most common is to make a loop around the pole, fix the end. For intermediate posts, you can use any available method - two separate cables, a driven hook, a suitable bracket.

The cable is attached to the carrier cable using support clamps. They are for cables. different shapes, sections. It is also possible to use ties made of UV-resistant plastic. Sometimes, to save money, the cable is screwed with pieces of wire, twisting it. This method is the least reliable - under heavy loads, the twist may not hold the wire, it will sag and break.

For self-supporting cables, fasteners usually consist of two parts - brackets or clamps that are attached to the wall, pole, and clamps that cling to the installed bracket and hold the cables. Clamps are used only on poles. They are especially convenient on reinforced concrete pillars - there is no need to drill holes, which is very difficult.

Brackets are of several types. They are chosen depending on the type of base (wooden, steel, concrete, aluminum) and the planned load. By appointment are:

branching - for installation on poles and supports in the places of turns of the route;
intermediate fastenings - for mounting on poles and supports along the route without turns and branches;
facade - for installation on external walls.

Hangers or clamps are attached to the brackets. They are selected depending on the type of cable, its section, etc.

Lay the electrical network in a structure made of timber or logs in a hidden way too expensive and difficult. However, the strict regulations of the PUE prohibit the open installation of a power cable in rooms with their characteristic vaporization and high moisture content. It is easier, cheaper and more convenient to install boxes that combine the advantages of open and closed type. Anyone can easily install these protective devices home master. No difficulties will arise if the future performer learns how to fix the cable channel and how to properly lay the wire in it.

Electrical boxes are the simplest design, made of galvanized steel alloy, aluminum or durable, non-combustible plastic. Their main element is a two-meter profile with a U-shaped section, which is to be attached to the wall. A power cable and low-current wires are laid in it, then closed with a lid. Here, actually, and all affairs.

But the simplest at first glance, the process has several important nuances. Then they should be found out by an independent master, so that the result does not require modifications or global alterations.

The family of electrical boxes used in the organization of electrical wiring in an open circuit includes:

wall cable channels with one-way or two-way lock;
floor plinth with sections for wires, mostly low-voltage;
ceiling analog of the predecessor;
floor systems with protection against mechanical impact;
trays and corrugated pipes, used mainly for wiring in utility rooms and on the outer sides of walls.

Because operating conditions oblige us to put practicality at the forefront of the choice, it makes no sense to consider floor options even for arranging rest rooms in baths.

For aesthetic reasons, let's leave thoughts about wiring in a corrugated pipe and in trays for outdoor work.

Consider the most common type of cable laying in a plastic wall channel. These are the cheapest and easiest to process boxes that do not require master skills and special knowledge from the performer.

What cable channel does the owner of the bath need?

For the organization of open-type electrical wiring, an extensive range of products of various shapes, sizes and colors is now being produced. Predominate in the sale of democratic white plastic boxes with a length of 2 m with variations of a couple of tens of cm.

Those who want to choose products exactly to match the wooden walls have a chance to buy channels of the required color. There are complex systems in stores with a full range of accessories for forming a network of any degree of complexity. There are mini-channels without additional devices that facilitate installation.

Cutting cable channels according to the dimensions required by the buyer in stores is not performed. You will need to prepare sections for the installation of the highway yourself. You will need to stock up on a hacksaw for metal, preferably a grinder. You will need a miter box for cutting blanks at an angle.

The choice determines the purpose of the work:

if the task is to or sockets, it is enough to purchase an invoice version of this electrical installation product and buy one mini-channel for it;
if the electrification of the bath will be carried out from scratch, it makes sense to buy a partially or completely complex of channels with accessories: corner and T-shaped adjustable elements, plugs, devices for sockets, junction boxes, switches, etc .;
if you plan to personally arrange a simple chain with cable laying in inexpensive plastic boxes, you must first draw up a diagram, calculate the footage of the channels and stock up on accessories of the same brand.

Buyers of the complex system, along with a pleasant purchase, will receive detailed instructions on the installation of basic and additional elements for joining them into a single highway.

Home craftsmen who decide to use a mini-box to organize electrical wiring will not be offered instructions. They will need an article on how the cable channel is laid and what rules must be observed.

Wiring device in the cable channel

To implement any idea, and even more so such a responsible one as the electrification of a bath, one should prepare. It is necessary to think over everything in advance, foresee and, naturally, distribute the stages of work.

If you are interested in options for lighting in the bath, we advise you to read the article

Those who decide to lay the cable in the electrical box will have to:

draw up a drawing of the facility to be equipped with exact dimensions;
determine the number and type of wires that will be required to be laid in the cable channel;

select the optimal wiring route and apply it to the plan;
buy boxes with accessories according to the scheme;
mark the path of the electrical wiring;
properly prepare the box for installation;
build a channel for laying the cable;
lay the wires, fix them correctly and close the covers;
install switches and sockets.

For laying power and low-current wires in one cable channel, it is advisable to purchase a box with sections. Power and low-current lines should not intersect or twist into a bundle, otherwise interference will occur during signal transmission.

The cable should be laid in a cable channel, the size of which allows you to freely place the entire set of required wires in it. The lid should snap into place effortlessly so that the entire structure does not “swing open” from accidental touch.

When buying, be sure to check the cover of the cable channel "for" closing. Feel free to click on the lock several times. It will be a shame if the cover simply does not “hold” in the already installed base.

Planning is a guarantee of success in work

The wiring in the box belongs to the category open schemes, therefore, there is no need to necessarily observe horizontals, perpendiculars and verticals. After all, the route is completely visible. Those. if you want to hang a shelf on the wall, there will be no threat of accidentally breaking through the cable. Diagonal lines, all kinds of zigzags, steps are acceptable. However, the irresistible craving of the owners for a clear geometry most often forces them to adhere to the strict directions inherent in a closed wiring diagram. Usually the lines are parallel to the planes of the floor and walls, extended along the window and.

You can draw the route as you please. The main thing is that there are no situations for accidental damage to the power grid, and also that it is convenient to use switches and sockets “attached” to it.

Regulations about the device open wiring No, here are some suggestions:

it is convenient to use the switch if it is installed near the door on the side of the handle at a height of 90 - 160 cm from the floor plane;
it is desirable to retreat min 15 cm from the ceiling, min 10 cm from the window opening;
closer than 30 cm from the floor plane, horizontal wiring lines and wiring devices should not be located due to the possibility of accidental moisture during cleaning. An exception is a plinth with a cable channel, but it is often used for laying low-current wires used to connect the Internet, telephone, and antenna.

According to the scheme we made with our own hands, we purchase material, purchase accessories, and stock up on tools for cutting.

It is advisable for beginners to stock up on a box 10-15% more than the estimated footage. It is not necessary to cut all the material at once into the segments required for installation. In fact, deviations inherent in domestic construction will definitely come to light.

It is better to act consistently: I measured it 7 times - for sure I attached it to the installation site - carefully cut it off - attached it. And so with each segment, for fixing which on the wall you need to pre-mark the installation site with a simple pencil. In the process of marking the future route, you do not need to focus on the floor/wall, wall/ceiling, etc. interface lines. Verify the actual position with a level gauge and a plumb bob.

Mounting options for the electrical box

The method of fastening electrical boxes is determined by the material from which the walls are composed. Those who want to get involved self-installation plastic cable channel can:

corny to glue the base to a wooden, wallpapered, painted wall, to a partition made of moisture-resistant drywall or sheathed with plywood, any slab of pressed woodworking waste;
screw with galvanized screws to a wooden surface;
fix the base on concrete or brick wall with the help of dowel-nails;
combine the adhesive method with mounting on self-tapping screws.

Boxes with adhesive tape planted on the base at the factory are commercially available, but they are preferred for organizing temporary wiring due to doubts about reliability.

You need to cut the boxes together with the lids snapped onto them. When constructing a route from several segments, care must be taken so that the junctions of the two bases do not coincide with the junctions of the covers. Simply put, swap the lids: close the long section first with a short lid, then with a long one and vice versa.

Specificity of gluing the cable channel

Gluing is easier than ever, but you need to take into account that you need to completely forget about dismantling the glued box. It’s impossible to tear it off just like that, only together with a piece of the wall or its decoration. True, the installation will require a minimum of effort and time, of the consumables, only glue, for example, “liquid nails”.

The algorithm is the following:

we apply the adhesive composition in a kind of zigzag with a step between the "tops" equal to approximately 1.5 times the width of the box;
we apply the base treated with glue to the wall, but do not fix it on it, but remove it to the side;
we wait until the adhesive trace remaining on the wall thickens;
set the channel in place and press it with force;
again waiting for the glue to harden.

For your own peace of mind and increased reliability, you can supplement the adhesive fastening with nails hammered along the central axis of the box in increments of 50-60 cm.

Only after hardening it will be possible to start laying the cable, which for convenience must be fixed in the channel. For permanent fixation, special plastic holders are useful. Economical craftsmen can use improvised devices: pieces of a cover or the cable channel itself. Temporary fixtures should no doubt be removed before attaching the cover.

Advice. Cable laying in the built system is more convenient to perform, alternating with snapping the cover. Installed part of the wiring in the channel, then clicked, etc.

The nuances of the use of self-tapping screws

On the inner surface the foundations of the channel must first be made holes. In a narrow profile, they can be placed in one line, in a wide box in a zigzag pattern. The spacing between the holes depends on the quality of the wall alignment. For flat surface 50 cm is enough. If there are minor gaps between the cable channel attached to the installation site and the wall, the step should be reduced to 30-40 cm. In general, “gaps” between the wall and the electrical box are undesirable. Channels are installed on a carefully leveled base.

We apply the section of the channel cable prepared for installation to the wall and screw the self-tapping screws through the holes formed.

The subtleties of using dowels with screws

The method is quite laborious, used for the construction of a cable line over brick or concrete walls:

prepare the base of the channel: pre-drill holes;
we apply it to the place of attachment in order to mark through the existing holes the points of the upcoming drilling of the wall;
With a 6 mm drill, we drill holes for the dowel-nails of the recommended size 6 × 40 at the marked points;
again we apply the base of the box to the attachment point;
insert the dowels and tighten the screws.

Without experience in the field of installing boxes, it is undesirable to drill the base immediately on the wall and immediately insert the dowels. It is good if the result of errors closes in consequence directly by the cable channel. And if not?

Instructions for performing corner joints

The main requirement of this work is the absence visible to the eye"hole" between the elements after snapping the covers. To avoid cracks, you need to carefully measure and carefully cut, using a metal sheet and a miter box or trimming. Therefore, those who wish to independently build a cable channel system are strongly recommended to use accessories that hide all the flaws.

Minor errors can be masked with a color-matched sealant, but there is another way to create a neat corner transition. Instead of cutting two blanks at the traditional 45º angle, you can simply cut the walls of the bases to their full width. The boxes in such cases are overlapped. Cuts and cuts on the walls of the cable channel are made with scissors for metal.

We made sure that there are no special tricks in fixing electrical boxes. Connection of sockets and switches to the line laid in them is carried out in a standard way. If the performer stocks up on patience and mobilizes his own accuracy, the result can rightly be proud of.