How to make homemade wine from grapes (red or white).

Traditionally, it is believed that the reproduction of grapes is possible only by seedlings or layering. There is another, albeit long, but interesting way. How to grow grapes from the seed at home, in order to have ornamental plant and get a decent harvest.

Is it possible to grow grapes from a seed at home

Although numerous studies confirm that the method of propagating grapes with seeds is not always justified. This is due to the fact that the seedling rarely retains the varietal properties of the parent plant. But this method sometimes used

Goals of growing grapes from seed

• Selection work(breeding of hybrids, formation of varieties with the best taste, resistant to frost, diseases).
• Cultivation of seedlings.
• Decorative use of a seedling.
• Rootstock growing.

Not all varieties of grapes are suitable for the method of propagation by seeds; early hybrids are often used:

• Russian concord,
• Marshmallow,
• Delight,
• Kesha-1,
• Triumph,
• Laura.

And the productive qualities of self-fertile varieties: Early Dawn, Alpha, Russian Violet are inferior to mother bushes. The choice depends on the purpose of using the berries: sour ones are for winemaking, sweet ones are eaten without processing.

Species features are not always preserved. Therefore, you can sow several seeds of the same variety at once. In the future, compare the taste, yield, resistance to pests and frost.

Grapes grown from seed are significantly inferior in yield and taste of fruits, compared with a plant propagated by layering or cuttings.

Preparing seeds for planting

For successful seedlings, large, ripe berries are selected, without defects and diseases. Leave until fully ripe.

Stages of bone preparation

1. The pulp is removed, the seeds are washed under running water or soaked for 2 hours.
2. Large, beige or brown bones are selected.
3. To increase germination, a stratification process is carried out, starting no later than December for several months. Then at the beginning of summer the seedling can be transplanted into open ground.

Preparing seeds for sprouting in toilet paper

Stratification

Selected seeds are placed in a damp cloth and a plastic bag and stored in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks. The optimum temperature is + 3⁰С - 0⁰ С. It is required to inspect the seeds regularly, once every 10 days.

To prevent the appearance of mold, it is necessary to periodically rinse the bones with water. Then, after 1.5-2 months, the shell will begin to crack. This marks the end of stratification.

At the final stage, the seeds are placed on wet wipe, without covering, in a warm place. After about three days, thin roots will begin to appear. It's time to plant in the ground.

Some gardeners do not always apply the stratification process. For this, crops are made before winter, in open ground, while the percentage of germination is lower.

It is not necessary to use seeds from unripe berries for planting. They have low germination, or weak shoots with low yields grow.

Sowing at home in a pot

Sowing stages

1. Prepare the soil. For these purposes, they use store-bought or mix sand, humus and garden soil in equal proportions on their own.
2. It is advisable to use a separate container for each seedling. Previously, a drainage hole is made in each and several pebbles are poured onto the bottom. Fill with earth mixture.
3. The seed needs to be planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm in a pot and shed.
4. The ideal place for further growth would be well-lit windows, preferably oriented to the south. It remains only to germinate the planting.
5. To preserve soil moisture until germination, the cups are covered with a film.

For the successful growth of seeds, it is necessary to withstand the temperature regime. The optimum daytime temperature should not be lower than +20⁰ C, and the night temperature should not be lower than +15⁰ C. Then, after 7-11 days, a sprout will appear.

The grape that gave the first sprout

plant care

An important factor for the growth of a strong plant is periodic, moderate watering and the presence of sunlight for at least 8 hours a day. In addition, the main care is loosening and top dressing. Every 10 days, nitrogen or phosphorus fertilizer is applied.

On the initial stage young shoots are best watered from a spray bottle so as not to disturb the root system. The seedling is inspected daily for the absence of spider mites. The pest can destroy the plant.

If in the plans the grapes will be used to decorate the room, then at a height of 10 cm, the seedling is transplanted into a container with a volume of 3-4 liters.

Landing in open ground is carried out in the first days of June.

Before transplanting, the seedlings are hardened for 5-7 days. To do this, during the day they are put outside, in a place quiet from drafts, in partial shade. These activities contribute to the rapid rooting and elimination of negative consequences from sunburn.

Slightly grown grapes that can be transplanted into open ground

Transplanting into open ground and caring for the vine

When the seedlings reach a height of 20-30 cm, they are transplanted into the garden.

1. A place for landing is chosen sunny, calm, preferably hidden from the northern winds.
2. Soils should be light, breathable, well-drained. In wet lowlands, grapes freeze.
3. A mixture of humus, sand and soil is poured into dug pits at a distance of 1.5-2 meters from each other.
4. Grape seedlings are planted in moist soil, on a warm, sunny day.
5. Each shoot is fixed to a vertical support (more often these are trellises 2 meters high with a stretched wire).

During the first summer, care consists in regular watering, loosening and weeding. Under favorable conditions, the grapes will take root well and reach a height of 1-2 meters in the first year.

Transplanted young grape vine in open ground

Growing grapes from the seed at home is a more time-consuming process. This is due to the long period of growth until the first harvest. And it does not always bring the expected effect. Therefore, in case of failure, and varietal qualities are not preserved, the seedling is used as a stock.

Everyone knows such a plant as grapes, the cultivation of which seeds at home is of interest to many gardeners. To get a fruit-bearing bush, you need to know the correct technology of this method and tune in to the fact that it will last quite a long time. Not many growers and gardeners use this method, as it is quite complicated and not everyone is able to cope with it.

Why grow grapes at home?

Ways to grow grapes at home:

• with the help of cuttings;
• using bones.

The last method is the most time-consuming and painstaking, so not many take it. Let's take a closer look at this growing method.

When asked whether it is possible to grow grapes from the seed at home, experienced breeders and growers answer positively. But the harvest is quite modest, so gardeners do this for the sake of:

• Excitement. Growing such a plant is long and difficult, and this process requires a lot of effort, constant attention and care. Not every gardener will be able to grow a garden crop in a pot from a small seed.
• Experiment. For those who breed new varieties, grapes from the seed can become a kind of “guinea pig”, on which you can try out various top dressings, as well as see how the plant reacts to pests, diseases and other negative factors.
• Rootstock. Grapes, grown from the seeds of which takes place in an apartment, are used as a support for an ordinary garden vine. This will save on seedlings.
• Decorations. Grown "home" grapes in appearance is no different from the garden. And since the plant itself is very beautiful, you can decorate your balcony with it.

What harvest should be expected?

Berries obtained from the "home" vine, their taste is significantly different from the garden. Grapes begin to bear fruit after planting after 4-5 years. The first time, the yield is expected to be quite small, and the taste of the berries is sour or has a mild taste.

Seed preparation

Due attention should be paid to the preparation of seeds for planting. It is best to choose new varieties, as this ensures that the grapes grown from the seeds of which is carried out at home will be resistant to various diseases and adverse conditions. Bones must be removed from the most ripe berries, differing in varietal qualities, without deformation and without signs of damage by rot.

Grape seeds that will be used for growing at home should be very large and preferably beige-brown in color. They are carefully and very thoroughly washed under water, and then they are not dried, but immediately laid out in moistened nylon bags and wrapped in ordinary plastic wrap. Prepared grape seeds are recommended to be placed on the lowest shelf in the refrigerator. They should be inspected regularly and washed periodically. As soon as cracks appear on them after a few months, this indicates their readiness for planting in the ground.

Material planting technology

Is it possible to grow grapes from the seed at home? If everything is done correctly, then this is quite feasible. Germinated grape seeds are planted in individual containers, which are filled with fertile soil. The optimal soil consists of a mixture of humus and sifted sand. Before sowing seeds, the soil should be disinfected; for this, the soil is calcined in the oven at a high temperature or spilled with boiling water with the addition of potassium permanganate.

After the containers are filled with soil, it is moistened and the prepared grape seeds are planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. In order for the sprouts to appear as early as possible, it is better to place the pots with crops on the windowsill, where there is good light and a lot of heat.

Growing Features

If, when growing grapes from seeds at home, an optimal temperature regime is created, and crops are provided with the necessary amount of light, then we can expect sprouts to appear in 10 days.

The conditions for growing grapes are as follows:

• plants should be regularly watered with water at room temperature, but waterlogging or severe drying of the soil should not be allowed;
• the soil must be loosened, and this must be done very carefully so as not to harm the sprouts;
• if such a need arises, then watering is supplemented with top dressing with mineral and organic fertilizers;
• the plant should be protected from drafts, and if the weather is very sunny, then the grapes should be shaded.

It is necessary to regularly inspect seedlings, as young plants are often affected by diseases or spider mites. In the spring, they are transplanted into larger containers.

If grape seedlings are grown, then in next year they are recommended to be transplanted into open ground. It is also very important to harden the plants before they are planted in a permanent place. Thanks to this procedure, they quickly adapt to new growing conditions and take root faster.

Growing grapes at home lasts until it reaches a height of 1.5-2 meters. After that, seedlings can develop only on open ground. In this case, the growing conditions of the plant are as follows:

• The landing site should be well lit and not in a draft. It is best if there is protection on the north side.
• It is desirable to choose a site with light, breathable and moderately moist soil.
• Usually the cultivation of grapes is carried out on trellises, which are very strong supports of two meters in height with a stretched wire. There should be a distance of 1.5 or 2 meters between planted plants.
• Grapes need to provide good drainage in the form of medium-sized stones or broken bricks. It is recommended to fill it with high-quality and fertile soil.

In the future, care for the planted grapes provides for regular watering, loosening the soil, and fertilizing. If you properly care for the plant, then it will begin to bear fruit three or four years after planting the grape seed.

Conclusion

Thus, we have dismantled what constitutes grapes, the cultivation of which takes place from the seeds in an apartment or a private house. This process is very complex and only experienced gardeners can do it. You can not only decorate your own balcony with a grown vine, but also enjoy berries.

Beginners in grape cultivation can please themselves with a harvest of delicious berries by growing it on the estate. Few people know that a healthy fruit can be grown on its own at home on the balcony and even on the windowsill. It remains to choose the method of cultivation, using cuttings or seeds.

Grape cultivation attracts both experienced farmers and amateur gardeners.

In the form of a houseplant, grapes, sprouting on the balcony, purify the air. The leaves of the bushes of different varieties, beautiful and varied in shape. In addition to the decorative function, the plant can bear fruit by three or four years of life at home.

Consider two main ways to breed grapes at home. These include - reproduction with the help of seeds, the second - the vegetative method (cuttings).

Breeding grapes from seeds for beginners

Growing grape seedlings from seed is a very painstaking and lengthy process. The plant will begin to bear fruit in the fourth, fifth year. A great desire for a novice grower is not enough; for this method, you will have to look for seeds for growing. Can pick up suitable varieties, there are enough of them, but it is important to take seeds from a strong vine. The advantage of the plant in disease resistance, facilitating the process of soil preparation, cultivation.

Different grape varieties grow in certain climatic conditions. Sowing seeds is done in the spring, if they are freshly harvested, they are sown in the fall. Beginning gardeners should choose self-pollinating varieties. The disadvantage of growing grapes from seeds is that parental properties are not repeated and the berries change taste. Beginners in this business should think about whether they need grapes grown in a similar way.

Seeds collected from fresh grapes are planted immediately, in the fall.

Selection and preparation of seeds for planting

First you need to choose a ripe bunch. At home, a seed can germinate, which has dark color shell with a light core, solid and sinks in water. It is taken out of the berry, washed well, soaked in water for a day, then stored in the refrigerator for two to three months (to improve germination). The process of high-quality seed germination should take place in cold, damp conditions (in nature - in winter in the ground). The temperature regime for storing bones is from 0 to +3 degrees.

To prevent mold from curling, they are taken out every 10 days, inspected and washed with water. The result of stratification appears after 2-3 months, when the grape seed begins to crack, this is a signal that it is ready to be planted in the soil. The germinated seed is moved for two days to a warm place (battery) on a moistened cotton napkin.

Soil preparation and planting seeds

As soon as white roots begin to hatch at the stone, it is planted in a previously prepared mixture. fertile soil for planting has a composition in the ratio of one to two sand and humus. For a good strengthening of the bone and turning it into a vine, each seed should grow in a separate pot, at a depth of no more than 1.5 cm.

It is allowed to plant seeds in one volumetric container, at a distance between sprouts of 5 centimeters from each other.

Seedling pots with seeds are placed in a warm, well-lit place. Perfect option- on the windowsill in the southern part of the house. To prevent drying, soil moisture is controlled by covering the pots from above. After 8-12 days, the seeds give small sprouts.

Grape seeds are planted at a distance of 5 cm from each other

Responsible stage is coming good care behind grapevines. It is necessary to carry out mineral and organic top dressing, regulate humidity, light flows - at least 8 hours a day. Gardeners recommend feeding the sprout once every 10 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizer with phosphorus. The systematic loosening of the soil has a positive effect on the growth of seedlings.

At the beginning of summer, seedlings grow by 8-10 centimeters, then I decide on a transplant. If the owner plans to continue growing them in the room, you need to transfer the seedling into a container with a volume of 3-4 liters and put it on the balcony. The second option is to transplant sprouts directly into the ground.

Chubuki, germinating on the balcony, are transplanted into open ground in late autumn. In the first year, the vine is not pruned until after the plant has flowered for the first time. The vine grown on the balcony reaches 2-3 meters in length. Next, the standard preparation for winter is carried out. They make a shelter for seedlings, for this they remove the vine from the support, fold it into a ring and bend it down to sprinkle it with earth. The raised top of the seedlings is wrapped with prepared material (black film, agro-cloth). For 3-4 years of careful cultivation of grapes, the fruiting period begins.

Until the sprout has reached a length of 10 cm, it cannot be transplanted.

Growing seedlings at home

The vegetative method involves the cultivation of grapes by spring, summer, winter cuttings. For high-quality cultivation of grapes, it is necessary to properly prepare cuttings (chibouks). Chubuki are ready-made cuttings that have one or five buds. Growing grape seedlings using the vegetative method does not violate the taste of the fruit. This method of increasing vines, reliable for the formation of seedlings good quality. From the step-by-step execution of the instructions, the result of the venture depends delicious berries grapes.

The preparatory phase of reproduction of chibouks includes:

1. Chubuk cutting.
2. Storage of blanks.
3. Preparation for growing vines.

For graft cuttings, the autumn period is favorable. With the onset of cold weather, when the leaves of the plant fall, gardeners begin to cut the vine. For high-quality propagation of chibouks, medium shoots are taken from the upper part of straight vines from fruit branches of grapes. After cuttings are completed, they are soaked in a bucket for a day and sent for storage.

Then each stalk is taken out of the water, marked, sorted into a bundle and wrapped with a damp cloth, sent for storage in a refrigerator or cellar. At 100% humidity, the storage temperature is -4°C. Periodically, the safety of the chibouks is checked so that mold does not appear and early opening of the kidneys.

From the second month of spring, the grafting process continues, for this, the seedlings are thawed and checked for viability. Secateurs make a transverse cut, when drops of water appear, defrost further. The lack of water indicates dried seedlings, and digging indicates that it is rotten. The blanks are taken out of the refrigerator, washed in cool water, disinfected in manganese for 6 hours. Then the sections are updated, and the cuttings are left in clean water over two days.

The color of the cut matters - light green without black dots. For the active growth of the root system, a root formation stimulator is added to the water.

The stage of growing cuttings at home continues.

Chubuks are planted in disposable cups or bottles in order to better observe the development of sprouts. Some gardeners practice planting chibouks in boxes, other containers, or directly into the ground so as not to disturb the roots of the plant once again.

Winter cuttings, after treatment with a stimulant, landing in greenhouse conditions rooted up to 90 percent. During the growing season shoots reach 1.5 meters, by the end of the first year the roots grow up to 30-40 cm long. Only from the autumn of the second or spring of the third year, seedlings are planted in open ground in a permanent place.

Cuttings are planted in glasses and placed in boxes

Breeding grapes in barrels

Winegrowers have developed a new technique for growing vines in barrels. This option is suitable for areas where the summer day is short. It is as follows:

• pick up plastic barrels with a minimum volume of sixty-five liters (i.e., 50 liters of land). Before planting grapes in barrels, up to 40 technical holes are drilled at the bottom, 10 millimeters wide;
• expanded clay is settled into the lower part of the barrels for drainage, slag can be used, as well as broken bricks. The space is covered with soil mixture, the composition of which is close to the components of garden soil: sand, humus, peat are added;
• when the middle of autumn comes, the sprouts in barrels are settled on the soil of the estate so that a small angle is obtained with a distance of 1 meter between them. During cold weather, to prevent shoots from freezing in barrels, they are sprinkled with soil and covered with slate;
• starting from April, the barrels are taken out of the ground and placed in a greenhouse. In this way, vine, a container planted in the ground, is heated and blooms by May;
• grapes are taken out into the street at the beginning of summer, placed on the south side, providing shade for the plant. A year of hard work and in July the plant will give a long-awaited harvest.

Varieties are planted in barrels, of short stature - “White Delight”, experts offer “Dimon”, “Madeleine Selenium”, and others are known. Planting grapes in this way is kept for eight to ten years, then the containers are cut, the bushes are taken out for transplanting into open ground.

For planting grapes, barrels with a size of at least 65 liters are selected.

Features of growing grapes on the balcony

Breeding and growing grapes on the balcony is best done on the south side of the house. With good watering, the plant gives quite good harvest fruits. Also, the vine shades the window and represents decorative element balcony. Not all varieties of grapes are suitable for life on a windowsill or balcony. Popular varieties include Delight, Timur, medium-sized varieties such as Prim, Russian early will still take root. In order for a plant to develop, the following conditions must be met:

• the main condition for growing the vine is sufficient lighting, only under direct rays will the plant bear fruit;
• the use of growth stimulants during the cultivation of grapes on the balcony improves the ovaries and accelerates the ripening of berries;
• special attention is paid to the composition of the soil, since the plant is not in its natural environment. The soil consists, on average, of five parts of useful substrates;
• grape varieties growing in a room or balcony must be bisexual;
• as they grow, the grapes will need to be transplanted into larger forms. In the first year of breeding, the plant will live in a pot of 4-5 liters, after 2-3 years it will need to be transplanted into a conical container of 8-10 liters;
• v winter period grapes can be held on the balcony in a pot if wrapped in blankets and covered with foil. If there is a basement, the plant after pruning the vine can be lowered into it until February.

With proper care of the grape bush on the balcony, you can expect a healthy look of a green vine from it and many years of fruiting.

Growing grapes from the seed on your balcony or windowsill is a rather difficult path and does not always justify itself. The plant can bear fruit only by three or four years of life.

For beginner gardeners, growing grapes from cuttings is suitable. This method is much easier and with decent plant care, from year to year, it will delight you with a tasty and healthy harvest.

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Growing grapes is not as difficult as it is commonly believed. Large clusters with juicy fruits will decorate your vineyard if you strictly follow the basic rules, taking into account the advice of experienced winegrowers.

What should be considered before growing grapes?

Photograph of the vineyard

Why does not every gardener succeed in growing good grapes on his plot so that he does not freeze over the winter, does not rot in the summer and brings a bountiful harvest of decent quality? The fact is that the cultivation of this culture must be approached seriously.

First of all, you should choose the right grape variety that will feel comfortable in your area. For example, grape growing v middle lane gives good results only when using winter-hardy varieties with early dates maturation. Among the new varieties you will find many excellent options that are resistant to fungal diseases, pests and severe frosts, with high productivity and the ability to ripen even in cloudy short summers.

Video about growing grapes

Chokeberry varieties generally require more sunlight and warmth than pale grapes, although fairly hardy black varieties are also found.

Pay special attention to the appearance of the seedling when buying. See if the plant mechanical damage, signs of drying or strange stains? Healthy grape seedlings should have at least three well-developed roots and a shoot about half a meter high. In order not to doubt the quality of planting material, buy seedlings in a nursery, and preferably in a container - this way the plant will take root better.

It will be easier for a novice gardener to plant a finished grape seedling, especially if you want to create a vineyard from scratch. Experienced growers can easily handle cuttings, but those who are not afraid to experiment can try to grow grapes from seed.

In the photo, grape seedlings

Step-by-step technology for growing grapes

When starting to create a vineyard, it is important to take into account climatic features: if the region is characterized by little snowy winters and severe frosts, it would be preferable to plant grapes in trenches or pits, but if there is enough snow in winter, but the summer is too short and cold, it is better to plant seedlings in bulk ridges. In the pits, the root system will be reliably protected from freezing, and in the ridges, the roots will receive more heat during the summer months.

You can plant grapes both in spring and autumn, depending on which planting material you choosed. Consider the most common and simplest option - autumn planting grape seedlings in planting holes.

Pictured is planting grapes

Stages of planting a grape seedling:

• choose a well-lit, flat place for planting, where there are no drafts and excessive moisture;
• dig a planting hole according to the size of the root system, with a depth of 0.2 to 0.5 m (for clay soil less, for sandy - deeper);
• mix the soil from the pit with organic and complex mineral fertilizers;
• pour a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole, and put branches or planks on top;
• install a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more to water the grapes through it and fertilize the soil;
• form a small mound of prepared earth over a layer of gravel and branches;
• before planting, dip the roots of the grape seedling into a solution of clay and rotted mullein (twice as much clay as mullein);
• cut the shoots into a couple of buds and dip in melted paraffin;
• place the seedling in the hole, straightening its roots;
• fill the hole with the remaining soil and gently tamp;
• pour grapes with warm water;
• Mulch the hole with compost or rotted manure.

Photo of watering grapes

If you are going to plant several bushes of grapes, leave at least one and a half meters between them. In this case, it is recommended to arrange plants from south to north.

How to grow grapes and care for them?

For the correct formation of grape bushes, it is necessary to install a strong trellis. The most simple design consists of two metal or wooden poles with several rows of wire between them. As the vines grow, they are carefully tied to the wire, setting them in the right direction.

Pictured grapes

In the first three years, pay especially much attention to plantings: carefully loosen the ground two days after rain or watering, prevent the leaves from wilting and the soil from drying out from lack of moisture, destroy weeds. Starting from the fourth year, it is enough to water the vineyard three to four times per season during the most important phases of development.

Periodically, vine bushes should be fed through drainage tubes and along the leaves, and pests and diseases should be treated with suitable fungicides. Carefully inspect the plants more often in order to start the fight against dangerous enemies of the grapes in time and prevent the death of the entire vineyard!

Video about the technology of growing grapes

Every fall, after leaf fall, prune the grapes. With the onset of the first night frosts, remove the vines from the supports, pin them to the ground with brackets, treat with a solution blue vitriol and cover plastic wrap. In the spring, do not rush to open the grapes until frost and sudden changes in temperature stop.

Following the technology of growing grapes given in this article, you can create your own vineyard and enjoy delicious, juicy fruits every year.

Indoor plants are of great importance in human life, decorating our life they are loved by everyone and bred everywhere.

Many people would like to do not only indoor floriculture, but also fruit growing, get their own lemons or, for example, grow grapes from the seed at home.

Practice shows that it is possible to grow grapes in an apartment using the so-called tub (pot) technique.

Practice shows that grapes can be grown in an apartment or on a balcony, using the so-called tub (pot) technique.

Living on the 5-7th floor of a stone house and having a small balcony with an area of ​​​​only 1-2 square meters, you can grow up to 3 vines.

Having a desire to grow indoor grapes and harvest without spending more time than it takes to care for ficuses, palm trees, geraniums, you can in Kharkov, Kiev or living on the 15th floor of a high-rise building in any other city.

Varieties of indoor grapes

In indoor conditions, it is better to grow self-pollinating varieties.

Landing

To grow grapes in a room, the soil substrate is prepared as follows: they take a third of humus, a third of turf land and the same amount of river sand. It is desirable to add 1 glass of wood ash (ash) or half a glass of complex mineral fertilizer to the prepared mixture. You can buy a ready-made universal soil for planting a seedling, but you need to choose with a neutral pH.

Planting cuttings is done in small greenhouses or pots. The air temperature in the room should be within + 21 + 25. When the upper bud sprouts and a sprout appears, glass (film) from a greenhouse or a glass (if it is flower pot) temporarily begin to shoot, thus adapting the bush to the environment.

After reaching a sprout height of 16-20 cm, the grapes are “transferred” into a bowl with an upper diameter of 16-18 cm. It should be noted that the roots of young grapes do not tolerate exposure very well, so the integrity of the earthy coma at the roots should not be violated. In July, the “transshipment” of the plant is repeated, but already in pots with a diameter of 25-35 cm. open air grapes not earlier than the second half of April or better - early May, depending on local weather conditions, i.e. at a time when the air temperature does not fall below 2-3C heat.

In autumn, after shedding leaves and cessation of growth, tubs with bushes are removed for the winter in dry, cool rooms, where a temperature of 2-5 degrees Celsius is provided. The vine should be coiled and tied to pegs.

The soil is rarely watered, just kept moist.

After dropping the leaves, pruning is done taking into account the age of the plant (they form grapes). On an annual - leave 2-3 buds, on a 3-4 year old bush, shorten the vine to 5-10 eyes. The fruiting vine is shortened to 5-8 eyes.

In March of the following year, the bushes are brought into the rooms, generously watered and fertilized.

After the formation of flowers on the shoots, they are pinched over the fifth leaf behind the flower brush. Of the non-bearing ones, do not pinch two or three, located closer to the root, to form fruit shoots for the next year. Such shoots are pinched at a length of 1-1.5 m. Therefore, you should always have 1-2 fruit arrows on the bush (fruiting vine) and one or two growing for fruiting next year (replacement).

Grapes on the windowsill - two harvests

When growing grapes at home, you can achieve two harvests annually. This is done in the following way. tucked away on winter storage the bush is brought into a warm room on the 15th of February and watered well. After 13-15 days, the buds will begin to bloom, and after 25-30 days flowering will begin. By May-June (depending on the precocity of the variety), the berries are already ripening.

3 weeks after harvesting, the bush is taken out to the glacier (to a cool place), where the temperature is not higher than +4 and they stay there for up to 50 days (one and a half months). After that, the bush is brought into the room and in late October, early November, juicy grapes will again ripen in the apartment.

After fruiting, the grapes must be replanted, removing up to 1/3 of the roots and changing to 1/3 of the ground. With a double crop, more fertilizer is required - usually 100 cm3 of a 10% slurry solution per liter of earthen clod volume, once a week, in addition, 2g of superphosphate must be added to each liter of slurry.

Watering indoor grapes

Water plays one of the main roles in plant life: it is consumed directly by plants and is a solvent for nutrients. Bushes during the period of growth and fruiting need a lot of water, some of it remains inside the plant as component fabrics and aggregates, some of it evaporates from the leaves.

With tub maintenance, a significant part of the water evaporates from the soil, the other part is consumed by the plant. Therefore, without a normal supply of water, the bushes wither, stop growing, and in some cases even die. It is necessary to give the right amount of good-quality water in a timely manner.

The temperature of the irrigation water should be at room temperature, watering should be done regularly, at very specific times, as needed, and not as much as possible.

Watering plants is best done from watering cans, with such watering the earthen ball is not destroyed and the earth is not washed out of the pot. Separate streams of water loosen the earthen ball in the tub better, in addition, such water supplies the ground and air. Watering the bushes is best done in the evening, at sunset or in the early morning.

fertilizers

The volume of land in a pot is tens of times less than the volume occupied by roots in soil culture. Grapes, which are grown at home, receive nutrition several times less than the same bush contained in the ground. However, for normal development all parts of the plant, for the formation of fruits, it must receive nutrients in the required amount. A small earth ball does not contain the necessary supply of nutrients, and those nutrients that are present are quickly absorbed, the earth is depleted and is no longer a full-fledged supplier of nutrients. And if you do not feed the bush with fertilizers, then its growth decreases, fruiting stops, and it may die.

To grow grapes in an apartment, and even more so to increase fruiting, it is necessary to give it artificial top dressing - to apply fertilizers to the soil.

The most versatile liquid fertilizer is slurry. The slurry contains almost all the compounds of essential plant chemicals. And since slurry is a product of the natural decomposition of organic substances, all the substances contained in it are easily absorbed by plants. The preparation of slurry is very simple, and the results of its application give a good effect.

Preparation: a container (bucket, barrel, jar) is filled with two-thirds of the volume with mullein or horse manure. Fill the free space with water and put in a warm place for fermentation. After 14-15 days, when the fermentation process stops, we filter. We dig in the rest. And put the filtered liquid in a cool, dark place. We use as needed.

For watering plants, the resulting solution is diluted with 9 parts of water, that is, a ten percent solution is prepared. Before subcorking, water the soil first clean water and then carried out by watering with a solution of slurry. When carrying out watering, make sure that the stems and leaves of plants are not doused with the solution. If this happens, they should be washed with clean water.

Watering starts in early spring, is held weekly and ends in August-September. On average, plants should be watered once a week, adding a glass of solution to the soil for every kilogram.

In the second or third year of the life of the grapes, that is, when it enters the fruiting period, 2 grams of superphosphate per liter of solution are added to a 10% solution of slurry.

Slurry can also be prepared from chicken manure, in a similar way, only for irrigation they take not ten, but a five percent solution (one glass is diluted with twenty glasses of water).

Mineral fertilizers are used in different periods of growth, in different mixtures. The composition of the mixture depends on the need for plants in certain periods of growth in certain substances, on the degree of depletion of the soil and its composition.

For normal life, bushes must extract potassium, nitrogen, calcium, iron, phosphorus, etc. in sufficient quantities. If there is a lack of nitrogen in the earth, growth is delayed, the leaves grow small, sometimes turn yellow and fall off, flowers also shrink and sometimes fall off before flowering. With an excess of nitrogen in the soil, on the contrary, the bushes grow too much, form a lot of leaves, but bloom poorly.

With a lack of phosphorus, the edges of the leaves turn yellow, fungal diseases develop more easily, fruit (flower) buds are poorly formed. Some of the flowers may be shed before flowering or shed a large number of ovaries (fertilized flowers) until the fruit is fully ripe.

The lack of potassium and calcium is characterized by weak growth (especially shoots - they grow thin), yellowing of the leaves. The lack of iron and copper salts in the soil causes lightening of the leaves and provokes the disease chlorosis - the absence (lack) of chlorophyll in the leaves.

G. E. Kiselev ("Indoor Floriculture", 1948) recommends the following compositions of mineral fertilizers for certain periods of growth and life of bushes.

These mixtures are used in solutions of 1 g of the mixture per liter of water at a dosage of up to 200 g of the solution per 1 kg of land.

Watering with mixtures is carried out 1-2 times in 10-20 days, from April to August. The number of waterings depends on the vital activity of plants - more vital (fast-growing) ones are watered more often, slowly - less often.

It must be remembered that a lack of nutrition, as well as an overabundance, leads to inhibition of growth, and possibly death, therefore, mineral fertilizers should be used carefully and only in cases where plants really need them.

Transfers and transfers

For the development of an active root system in the tub, during the first 2-3 years of growth, the pots (tubs) are repeatedly replaced, gradually increasing their volume, transferring the bushes from a smaller container to a larger one. When it enters the fruiting period, transshipment stops, and transplants are made every 2-3 years.

During transshipment, the bush is removed from the pot without disturbing the earthen coma and transferred to a larger pot with the addition of earth. At the same time, the drainage and upper layers of soil with a thickness of 2-3 cm are necessarily replaced, the rest of the clod is not disturbed. Transshipments are made after the end of the next growth period in the grapes, that is, when the young shoots and leaves have matured. In the summer, no more than two transfers are made.

Transshipment is carried out as follows: when growth has stopped, the bush is watered (but not abundantly) with water, the pot is tapped on all sides and, having covered the top with a hand, is turned over; if the earth lump does not separate, take a stick and, pressing it through the drainage hole, push it out of the pot.

With a blunt object, they clean off 2-3 cm of the top layer of the earth and the drainage layer. Examine the root system and remove all rotten and dead roots; they differ from the living ones in a darker color or even a dark brown color.

Drainage is arranged in a new dish, then 1-2 cm of sand is poured. The nutritious earth is poured in such a layer that the top edge of the lump of the handled bush placed in the pot is 4-6 cm lower than the top of the pot. After that, the earth is filled up and compacted between the walls of the pot and on top by 2-3 cm. Compaction of the earth, in order to avoid damage to the roots, is done with fingers or a blunt object. After transshipment, abundant watering and spraying of the bush with warm water are carried out.

For the first 7-10 days after transshipment, the bush is removed to a shaded place.

The transplantation technique is the same as transshipment, only during transplantation, up to 1/3 of the earth is removed from the earthen coma, up to one third of the roots and up to one third of the crown are cut out.

Transplantation is carried out in early spring or autumn, while in the first year the plant is given rest, destroying most of the fruits in their infancy or even removing them altogether.

Dishes (tubs, pots) are disinfected during transplantation.

Growing grapes from a cutting or from a seed is not at all difficult, the main thing is patience and attentiveness. The reward will be sweet and tasty berries.

References:

I.V. Ovsyannikov "Kadochny amateur fruit growing", 1951
EAT. Makarova, V.N. Nerytov "Murom grapes", 1983

If you do not have a private house and a plot of land, this does not mean that you will not be able to become a winegrower. Vines of grapes can be grown in an apartment, that is, at home, but it is necessary to ensure the maximum comfortable conditions for a plant. And of course, no matter how hard you try, not all varieties will grow at home, for this it is better to choose Kish-Mish, Frankenthal, Early Purple and Muscat of Alexandria.

After the seeds or shoots have been planted, shoots will appear after a while. It is easier to buy ready-made seedlings. Remember that grapes like a lot of light, so they need to be kept on the south or east sides. However, it is likely that the fruit will be much smaller than that of an open field vine. How to grow grapes at home from a seedling? To do this, it is planted in moist soil and mulched with sawdust. As soon as the seedling began to grow and began to grow, it must be tied to a support, and then a trellis can be built.

To make a trellis, you need to stretch some strong ropes or cords where the vine grows, and place the plant on them. As soon as the grapes have reached 2 meters, its tips must be pinned. When autumn comes, the grapes will throw off all the leaves. As soon as this has happened, it is removed from the window into the cellar or other cool and dark place. With the onset of February, they take it out and put it on the window again, while the vine must be cut into 7 eyes, this will help enhance the growth of the plant and achieve a good large harvest.

Growing grapes at home is not as laborious as it seems at first glance. It is important to monitor the secondary processes on the main stem. As soon as they appear, they are immediately removed so that they do not interfere with the development of the main stem of the plant. Periodically, simple procedures such as watering and loosening the soil, removing weeds, and fertilizing should be carried out. Nutrients are applied about 4 times during the entire growing season. The first two top dressings are nitrogen-containing, and the subsequent ones should consist of potassium salt and superphosphate.

As soon as the plant is three years old, it is transplanted in the spring into a large container about 50 centimeters deep. Also during this period, shoots are necessarily cut off for 10-12 eyes. It is after all these procedures that a real vine will begin to develop, which will give a good harvest. Every 3 years it is important to renew the soil in containers so that the plant can receive all the nutrients. To do this, an earthen lump with grapes is carefully pulled out, and the remaining earth is removed, a new mixture is poured, consisting of soddy soil and sand. As soon as the plant has bloomed, its top must be pinned down so that the vine spends all its strength and nutrients on flowering, the formation and development of fruits.

Winemaking is an art, the secrets of which take years to learn, but to do Home wine Grad wine is available to anyone. It is clear that this will not be a masterpiece worthy of world exhibitions, but if the instructions are followed, the taste of a home-made drink will be better than that of many store-bought ones. I bring to your attention a detailed technology for making wines (red and white) at home. The recipe uses only grapes and sugar, in rare cases additional water is required.

For home winemaking, such grape varieties as Stepnyak, Platovsky, Rosinka, Druzhba, Regent, Saperavi, Crystal, Festivalniy are better than others, which do not require special care and have a fairly high sugar content. But this does not mean that you cannot make wine from other varieties, such as Isabella or Lydia, you just have to add more sugar.

Before starting cooking, take care of all the containers and appliances used. In order not to infect the juice with pathogenic microorganisms, such as mold, containers must be perfectly clean and dry. Kegs, bottles, buckets can be smoked with sulfur, as is done in industry, or washed with boiled water, then wiped with a dry cloth. I strongly recommend avoiding containers that have previously held milk, as even thorough cleaning does not always help.

Ingredients:

• grapes - 10 kg;
• sugar - 50-200 grams per liter of juice;
• water - up to 500 ml per liter of juice (in rare cases).

It is advisable to add water only if the juice is very sour - it stings the tongue and reduces the cheekbones. At the same time, remember that adding sugar in itself reduces acidity. In all other cases, dilution with water impairs taste and is therefore not recommended.

grape wine recipe

1. Harvest and processing. In order to ensure that the wild yeast necessary for fermentation remains on the grapes, it is advisable to pick the berries in dry, sunny weather. There should be no rain for at least 2-3 days before.

Only ripe fruits are suitable for winemaking. There is too much acid in unripe grapes, and acetic fermentation begins in overripe berries, which can subsequently spoil all the must (squeezed juice). Also, I do not advise you to take carrion, because of which the grape wine has an unpleasant aftertaste of the earth. Picked berries must be processed within two days.

Carefully sort the harvested grapes, removing twigs and leaves, unripe, rotten and moldy fruits. Then crush the berries, place the pulp together with the juice in an enamel pan or plastic bowl, filling the container with a maximum of ¾ of the volume. It is better to crush the grapes with your hands so as not to damage the seeds, which contain substances that make the wine bitter. If there are a lot of berries, they can be carefully crushed with a wooden rolling pin (pestle).

Only wooden fixtures

Contact of the juice with metal (except stainless steel) should be avoided, as this causes oxidation, which impairs the taste. That is why the berries are kneaded with hands or wooden tools, and the pulp (transferred grapes) is placed in an enameled dish with a wide neck - a bucket or a saucepan. You can also use a food grade plastic container or a wooden barrel.

Cover the container with the pulp with a clean cloth to protect it from flies, put it in a dark, warm (18-27 ° C) place for 3-4 days. After 8-20 hours, the juice will begin to ferment, a “cap” of skin appears on the surface, which should be knocked down 1-2 times a day, stirring the pulp with a wooden stick or hand. If this is not done, the wort may turn sour.

Rapid fermentation of the pulp

2. Obtaining pure juice. After 3-4 days, the pulp will brighten, a sour smell will appear and a hiss will be heard. This means that the fermentation has successfully begun, it's time to squeeze the juice.

Collect the top layer from the peel in a separate container, squeeze it out with a press or by hand. Filter all the juice (drained from the sediment and squeezed out of the pulp) through gauze, pouring 2-3 times from one container to another. The transfusion not only removes small particles, but also saturates the juice with oxygen, which contributes to the normal functioning of wine yeast at the initial stage.

When working with grapes that are not ripe or grown in northern latitudes, water may be required in rare cases. If the juice turned out to be very sour (it reduces the cheekbones and pinches the tongue), add water - a maximum of 500 ml per 1 liter. The more water, the worse the quality of the wine. It is better to leave slightly increased acidity, since the concentration of acids decreases slightly during fermentation.

Fill containers with pure juice (maximum 70% of the volume) intended for fermentation. Ideally, these are large glass bottles, in extreme cases, if the volume of wine is small, cans are also suitable.

3. Installation of a water seal. In order for homemade grape wine not to turn sour, it must be protected from contact with oxygen, while at the same time ensuring the release of a by-product of fermentation - carbon dioxide. This is done by installing one of the water seal designs on the juice container. The most common option is a classic water seal from a lid, tube and can (pictured).

Scheme of a classic water seal Fermenting wine with a glove

The design of the water seal is not of fundamental importance, but in terms of convenience, it is better to put a classic water seal on large bottles, and on jars - a glove or a closure in the form of a lid (sold in stores).

Lid with water seal

4. Initial (active) fermentation. After installing the water seal of the container with fermented juice, it is necessary to provide suitable temperature conditions. The optimum fermentation temperature for red homemade wine is 22-28°C, for white wine 16-22°C. The temperature must not be allowed to drop below 15 ° C, otherwise the yeast will stop before it has time to process all the sugar into alcohol.

5. Adding sugar. Approximately 2% sugar in the must yields 1% alcohol in the finished wine. In most regions of Russia, the sugar content of grapes rarely exceeds 20%. This means that without added sugar, at best, you will get a wine with a strength of 10% and zero sweetness. On the other hand, the maximum possible strength is 13-14% (usually 12), with a higher concentration of alcohol, wine yeast stops working.

The problem is that it is impossible to determine the initial sugar content of grapes at home without a special device (hydrometer). It is also useless to focus on average values ​​for varieties, since this requires data on the sugar content of the selected variety in a particular climate zone. In non-wine-growing areas, no one conducts such calculations. Therefore, you have to navigate by the taste of the juice - it should be sweet, but not cloying.

To maintain normal fermentation, the sugar content of the must cannot be made more than 15-20%. To ensure this condition, sugar is added in parts (fractionally). 2-3 days after the start of fermentation, taste the juice. When it becomes sour (sugar has been processed), 50 grams of sugar should be added for every liter of juice. To do this, pour 1-2 liters of must into a separate container, dilute sugar in it, then pour the resulting wine syrup back into the bottle.

The procedure is repeated several times (usually 3-4) during the first 14-25 days of fermentation. At some point, the sugar content of the wort will decrease very slowly, which means that there is enough sugar.

Depending on the temperature, sugar content and yeast activity, the fermentation period for homemade grape wine is 30-60 days. If the fermentation has not stopped 50 days after the installation of the water seal, in order to avoid the appearance of bitterness, the wine should be poured into another container without sediment and placed under a water seal to ferment under the same temperature conditions.

6. Removal of wine from sediment. When the water seal does not blow bubbles for 1-2 days (the glove is blown off), the must is clarified, forming a layer of loose sediment at the bottom, it's time to pour the young grape wine into another container. The fact is that dead fungi gather at the bottom, being in wine for a long time, they cause bitterness and an unpleasant smell.

1-2 days before removing the wine from the sediment, put the fermentation tank on a raised platform above the floor (50-60 cm). It can be a bench, chair or any other device. When the sediment is again at the bottom, pour the wine into another container (clean and dry) through a siphon - a transparent soft hose (tube) with a diameter of 0.7-1 cm and a length of 1-1.5 m. The end of the tube cannot be brought closer to the sediment, than 2-3 cm.

Drained homemade wine will not be completely transparent. It's not scary, the appearance of the drink has not yet formed.

Sludge removal process

7. Control of sugar content. It's time to decide on the sweetness of the wine. Since active fermentation has already ended, all the sugar added at this stage will not be processed into alcohol.

Add sugar, focusing on taste preferences, but not more than 250 grams per liter. The application technology is described at the 5th stage. If the sweetness suits you, you should not sweeten it further. Strong spirits lovers can make fortified grape wine by adding vodka (alcohol) at the rate of 2-15% by volume. Fixing contributes to the storage of wine, but makes the taste tougher, and the aroma is not so rich, alcohol notes appear.

8. Quiet fermentation (ripening). The stage during which the final taste is formed. Lasts from 40 to 380 days. A longer aging of homemade grape wines is not advisable, because it does not improve the properties of the drink.

Place the bottle of wine (preferably filled to the top to avoid contact with oxygen) under the water seal again (recommended if sweetening was done) or tightly close the lid. Store the container in a dark cellar or basement at a temperature of 5-16°C. If this is not possible, the young wine should be kept at a ripening temperature of 18-22°C, but not higher. It is important to avoid sudden temperature changes, for example, day and night, otherwise the taste will deteriorate. The minimum aging period for white wine is 40 days, for red wine - 60-90 days.

When a sediment appears at the bottom with a layer of 2-5 cm, pour the wine from one container to another through a tube, leaving the sediment at the bottom, as described in the 6th stage. As a result, the drink will gradually lighten up.

9. Artificial lightening (pasting). Even after several months in the cellar, homemade grape wine can remain hazy. The problem is solved from impurities. The most common methods are pasting with gelatin or egg white.

Clarification improves only the appearance, but does not affect the taste in any way, so I recommend cleaning only in extreme cases.

10. Bottling and storage. At the last stage (when the sediment no longer appears), the wine can be bottled and tightly closed with corks.

Red wine 6 months aging

Shelf life at a temperature of 5-12°C - up to 5 years. Fortress - 11-13% (without fixing with vodka or alcohol).

The video shows the technology for making wine from sour grapes, in which the squeezed juice is half diluted with water. Only relevant for northern regions with very sour berries, since the addition of water worsens the taste.

A bush of grapes that grows in a room can create a unique coziness and will always be a living reminder of summer.

For lovers indoor plants growing grapes is an alternative option for landscaping the interior of an apartment or house. Moreover, the grapes that grow on the windowsill will not only decorate the room - you can collect quite a decent harvest of delicious berries from it.

Growing Rules

Grapes are a light-loving plant and windows placed on the south side are suitable for growing it in a house or apartment. Grape bushes installed on other windows will develop normally, but they will very rarely bear fruit.

For growing in a room, it is better to take grape seedlings that were grown during the summer outdoors. The seedling is planted in a container, wooden box or a large flower pot. To fill the container, use a soil mixture consisting of equal parts chernozem, sifted humus and river sand. A layer of fine gravel is poured at the bottom of the container for drainage.

Care for planted seedlings is necessary in the same way as for those that grow in open ground.

In winter - special care for grapes

For the winter grape seedlings should be placed in a cold room, such as a basement. If this is not possible, it is quite acceptable to keep the grapes at a temperature of 10-16 degrees indoors. Should only occasionally be sprayed with water upper layer ground and reduce lighting to a minimum. Before installing a container with a grape seedling for winter storage, it is necessary to cut it like a regular bush for fruiting.

A container of grapes is brought into the room in January-February. With the beginning of its growing season, weak shoots are broken out; during the growing season, two more agrotechnical methods are necessarily used for successful cultivation: pinching and plucking. Carrying out pinching, it is necessary to leave one or two on the stepson bottom sheet. Pinch growing shoots to temporarily stop their growth. This technique enhances the flow of nutrients to the inflorescences, as a result of which the yield increases, dormant buds wake up. After plucking, clusters of grapes with well-developed berries are formed.

Harvest several times a year

In April-May, it is advisable to cut off the shoots that bear fruit and place them in a container with a grape bush in a cool place for 2-3 months. In early September, it will be possible to bring a container with a bush of grapes into the room for re-vegetation and get a second harvest in a year in late autumn - early winter.

If you grow several grape bushes in a room, you can harvest ripe berries for a whole year.