Connection of outdoor and indoor air conditioner units. How to install an air conditioner yourself - step-by-step instructions

23.06.2020

With him in the apartment, the heat in the summer is okay, and the dampness in the fall, when it rains coldly, and the heating system is not yet working. After purchasing and installing an air conditioner, the next stage begins: connecting the air conditioner to power.

This work should be carried out according to the diagrams shown, located on the covers of the air conditioner modules. There is also an instruction manual with power and connection requirements.

Connection requirements

The design of a standard climate system includes an outdoor module, which is located outside the window, and an indoor module. Sometimes two indoor or outdoor modules are installed.

Each component of this system performs its own specific tasks. For example, the external module is responsible for condensation, and the internal module ensures the evaporation of water. The modules are interconnected by pipelines and electrical wiring. Freon circulates in the tubes.

The drainage tube is connected to the external module. Condensing moisture is removed through it during system operation. According to the rules, the drainage pipe must be connected to the sewer system of the house.

The retail chain has a wide selection of climate systems that can satisfy the tastes of any customer. But their design, operating principle and connection methods do not differ much from each other.

Connecting an air conditioner to the network in an apartment or house is very different from similar connections at production facilities or offices. Household air conditioners are connected only using a single-phase circuit.

The air conditioning system is also called a split system. In practice, two basic methods are used to connect the air conditioning system:

Direct connection to an outlet.
Separate cable to the electrical panel.

The first method is suitable for any household appliances; most often they are connected using this method. Any split system is independently connected in several stages. This order must be followed.

The figure shows the connection of the modules. You will also need electrical diagram the split system you purchased.

Connecting the air conditioner to the outlet

Before making the electrical connection, you need to lay the cables to the external module from the evaporator:

Lay the cable connecting the two blocks.
Run a separate cable to the electrical panel for the high power system. A protection against overcurrent must be installed.
For a medium power system, the connection is made through a socket.

Connecting the air conditioner to an outlet is used in the following cases:

The house has an electrical network of the required power.
Mobile or window air conditioning system.
Low system power.
Do not connect other devices to this line.
For temporary placement.

The internal air conditioner module must be connected to a reinforced socket, installed near it circuit breaker. Please note that the air conditioner operates on various modes, therefore its power can be significantly reduced and increased, depending on the type of mode. Therefore, the air conditioner power circuit must have separate protection.

The manufacturer includes instructions with the split system kit, which contains:

Electrical diagram for connecting the indoor and outdoor units.
General connection diagram.
Diagram of the operating principle.

Similar information is available at inner surface evaporator covers and on the outdoor unit housing. This greatly simplifies connecting the air conditioner at home.

There is a special box under the front panel of the evaporator. It contains terminals for connecting wires. This system module is always installed indoors.

Conductors from the evaporator are connected to the terminals of the external module. In this case, you should be guided by the numbers of terminals and wires. The ends of unused conductors must be carefully insulated. In order to correctly understand the principle of operation and understand everything, you need to be guided by the circuit diagram.

The integrity of the wire core insulation is the key safe work the entire system. Therefore, before making an electrical connection, it is necessary to inspect the core insulation for damage.

If you cannot understand the operation of a split system, and have never dealt with such connections, then it is better to seek help from specialists rather than try to do this work yourself .

It is not allowed to connect air conditioners to a household network. country house or apartments in the following cases:

There is no good grounding.
There is no device to equalize voltage drops.
Poor condition electrical wiring.
Insufficient cable cross-section for the connected load.
Electrical wiring with aluminum wire, old style.

The split system is a sensitive device. Therefore, it requires a working electrical network to ensure its normal operation. Otherwise, you will waste your money and end up with expensive repairs.

Connecting the air conditioner to the panel

Professionals advise using the safest and most reliable way split system connection: separate cable. This will ensure stable operation of the equipment. An individual line allows you to place the system blocks in any convenient places. When installing a residual current device, protection against current overload of the network will be provided.

Basic requirements for elements of an individual line:

Organize for the entire individual line.
must comply with the manufacturer's recommendations.
The cable must have copper conductors.
Availability or .

Harnesses electrical cables enclosed in a protective sleeve, then placed in a special plastic box, fixed to the wall surface.

General connection procedure

Selection the necessary tool and materials.
Studying the connection diagram.
Laying cables to connect the outdoor unit to the corresponding terminals of the evaporator.
Checking the system's functionality.

Selection of socket

A household outlet for an air conditioner must meet certain requirements:

Mandatory connection to the electrical panel via a circuit breaker.
Mandatory connection with a wire with copper conductors. If the wires are aluminum, they need to be replaced.
Full compliance with the requirements and characteristics of the manufacturer in accordance with the instructions for the air conditioning system.
It is recommended to have a high-quality grounding or a differentiated relay.

Modern Euro electrical sockets are the most suitable for connecting high-power home appliances. In order to maintain the warranty on the split system equipment, it is advisable to connect it to the power supply by a qualified specialist authorized to perform such work. If you connect yourself, the warranty will be void.

When installing an air conditioner that has been removed from another location and does not have a warranty, you can connect it yourself, carefully following all the recommendations.

Wire selection

To ensure quality independent connection air conditioner, it is necessary to use a wire that meets the requirements of the manufacturer. Typically, household electrical devices are connected with a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 to 2.5 mm 2. In this case, the permissible current can reach 18 A. For a wire length of up to 10 meters, a wire cross-section of 1.5 mm 2 is sufficient; when the length increases, a wire with a larger cross-section is used.

The use of aluminum wire to connect the air conditioning system is prohibited. For a single-phase connection option, a three-wire wire is used, and for a three-phase connection, a five-wire wire is used.

Do not lay the power cable of the air conditioner near heating pipes or gas pipes. The distance between them must be at least one meter.

There are two ways to lay wires for an air conditioner:

The wires assembled into bundles are laid in grooves dug into the wall and secured with clamps. Then the grooves with the laid cable are plastered with construction plaster. If it is necessary to repair the wires, the plaster can be easily opened.
Electrical wiring is placed in plastic boxes (), which are fixed on the wall surface.

Evaporator connection

The general principle of connecting different blocks of the system is the same, apart from some features.

The order of connecting the remote module (evaporator):

Remove the front decorative panel.
Remove the protective cover.
Pull the cable through the hole in the wall, which is usually located on the side of the module.
Peel the insulation at the ends of the wires to a length of 2-3 cm.

Insert the bare ends of the wires into the corresponding holes in the terminals and secure with screws.

Secure the cable at the exit from the housing.
Replace the cover.

After connecting both units, it is necessary to finally check the correctness of the connection diagram. After a thorough check, a performance test is performed and the air conditioner is connected for a short time.

Errors when connecting a split system can lead to equipment malfunctions and failure of individual elements.

Installing an air conditioner is not an easy task, but it can be done! At each stage many questions arise. This is complicated by the fact that it is impossible to give one standard scheme - each case is individual. If you don’t know where to start installation, in what sequence to perform operations, then this article is for you!

There are many recommendations and guides on the Internet, but they are not very specific. In this post I will highlight the nuances that arise at each installation step - I will try to make clear instructions. So that with the help of it everyone can perform a simple installation of a household split system. But before starting work, read the entire article.

if the “route” of the air conditioner is very long and has complex bends;
if the highway will pass through several walls;
if the external unit is installed at a high altitude (above the second floor);
if the diameter of at least one of the pipes is greater than 3/8 inch.

Air conditioner installation

The first stage is the most difficult. It is necessary to imagine how the “route” between them will be laid. Each factor should be taken into account:

Mark the center of the block on the mounting plate. Then we mark the center on the wall. Don't forget about the distance to the ceiling. Using a level, level the plate and secure it.

After this you can estimate indoor unit to the fixed plate (but do not snap the bottom clips to the plate!). Use a pencil to mark the lower corners of the body. Then remove the block from the plate.

Mark where the hole will be in the outer wall.

Carefully cut through the wallpaper and knock off the plaster at the drilling point. If the installation is direct or as in the photo above, then you need to make a so-called “approach” to the hole (where the tubes will enter the wall). So that in this place the bend of the “route” is smooth.

for brick or concrete walls you will need a large hammer drill and a drill with a pobedite tip. Drill the first 2-3 cm of the wall without tilting (in a straight line) so that the drill barely enters the wall. Then be sure to bend down. During this operation it is better to use an industrial vacuum cleaner.
wooden wall It is better to drill with a drill with a feather drill with a diameter of 45 mm. The process will go slowly but surely. Don't forget to tilt the hole down.
It is better to drill a metal profile or “sandwich” with a 45mm bimetallic crown. Also, do not forget about the downward slope of the hole.

If the air conditioner “route” needs to be pulled through just one hole in the wall, then you can proceed as follows:

We conveniently position the indoor unit and connect the materials to it:

We form the following materials into one compact bundle:

With the help of a partner, we drag the indoor block with the “route” through the hole in the wall. We hang it on the plate, but do not snap the lower clips!
We bring the power cable to the desired place inside the room (but do not connect it!). If required, we close the “route” inside the room with a cable channel. Snap the lower clips of the block.
We throw the external unit onto the brackets and screw it securely. We carefully bring the “route” from the outside to the taps of the external unit.
We unscrew the nuts of the taps of the external unit (make sure that nothing gets into the open fittings). We put the nuts on the tubes, after which we roll them. We screw the copper tubes to the fittings.
We connect the interconnect cable in the same way as to the indoor unit. If the air conditioner comes with an additional wire, then connect it to the appropriate block. We connect the “power” cable if, according to the diagram, it goes to external unit.
Further you will need pressure gauges and a vacuum pump(pressure gauges must match the type of freon). Be careful here:

connect the LEFT hose of the pressure gauge to the fitting of the external unit (to which the tube fits large diameter). Connect the MIDDLE pressure gauge hose to the vacuum pump;
start the pump and open the LEFT tap on the pressure gauge (counterclockwise);
We wait a few minutes until the air is pumped out. For small air conditioners (up to 2.7 kW of power) and a short “path” (up to 5 meters), wait 8 to 10 minutes;
at the end of the “pumping out”, close the LEFT valve of the pressure gauge, and immediately after that turn off the pump. We look at the pressure gauge readings (the arrow should be at “-1”). If in your case refueling with freon is required, then read the relevant articles ();
open the tap of the thin tube on the external block with a hexagon. At the same time, we look at the readings of the pressure gauges - “catch” the arrow at about 3 bar. We watch the arrow for 5 minutes - it should not move to 0 bar (which will indicate the tightness of the tube connections);
Next, unscrew the LEFT pressure gauge hose from the air conditioner. Here you need to be VERY careful and QUICKLY unscrew the hose so as not to get burned by the freon (be sure to wear gloves). Even experienced specialists can suffer during this operation;
open both taps on the external block with a hexagon (counterclockwise). After this we can close all the plugs.

Approximately the same instructions are in a separate article.

Thus, the installation of the air conditioner is complete! This article is not universal instructions for all household air conditioners. But in most cases it will be relevant, and I hope it will help you install an air conditioner. Look detailed video for installation of a split system.

If you have anything to add, leave a comment!

When choosing a place to install an air conditioner, the first thing you need to consider is that the coolest air will be at a distance of 2-3 meters from the device. Place it in such a way that there is no bed, sofa or other place for sleeping or prolonged rest in this area. In addition, when choosing where to install the air conditioner, it is worth choosing a place that is remote from all heating devices. Anything that emits heat or steam is a bad neighbor for an air conditioner, unless of course you want to create indoor tornadoes :) It is also undesirable for pieces of furniture to stand in the path of the air flow, otherwise the operation of the device will not be efficient enough.

When choosing how to properly install an air conditioner in a room, the location of the windows is also taken into account. If you have a sunny side, then the flow of cooled air should go perpendicular to the flow of heat from the windows, in which case the temperature will be distributed most evenly. It is also not recommended to place the split system opposite the door to the room so that the cooled air does not escape into other rooms.

When installing an air conditioner under the ceiling, you must also take into account the necessary indentation - at least 15 cm from the ceiling to provide space for air movement. Since most split systems do not provide air flow from the street, but only cool existing air, for a healthy microclimate it is better to place the air conditioner in the same room with - it will supply Fresh air, and the air conditioner cools it to the desired temperature.

If you are deciding how to properly install an air conditioner in the bedroom, then the best solution will place it above the bed - in this case, the zone of greatest cold will be outside the bed, and the air during sleep will be at a pleasant temperature.

If we talk about how to properly install an air conditioner in the kitchen, then, in addition to moving away from heat sources, which include the kitchen stove, you also need to take into account the fact that if the air flow gets into other rooms, then odors from the kitchen will spread throughout the apartment . If you have gas stove, then it is also not worth placing the air conditioner opposite it, since the air from it will blow out the flame. There is often not enough space in the kitchen to install a split system according to all the rules; in this case, you can choose a corner or compact installation; such options are now available on the market.

Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor-condenser module and an internal evaporator module with a corresponding number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied and condensate is discharged. This scheme complicates installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, just read the instructions, make up for the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.

Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space in small apartments they usually use wall mounted air conditioner. This split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for durable wall mounting. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

installation of separate wiring;
installation of an external condenser unit;
fastening the evaporator (indoor unit);
connection of communications with vacuum;
test activation.

Tools

To install the split yourself you will need a tool. It is recommended to include in the set:

a drill with a hammer drill and a corresponding set of drills that is capable of breaking through a solid concrete wall;
pipe cutter for neatly cutting pipes without the threat of clogging with copper shavings;
a kit for flaring the edges of tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
an example that can be used to strip the ends of connections;
a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess the tightness;
vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by vacuuming;
indicator screwdriver and tester for wiring;
pressure gauge for pressure control.

How to choose a place

Before installing split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For the external unit, the space should be:

protect the device from direct sunlight and exposure to dust;
guarantee the stability of the structure;
provide sufficient free space for normal operation of the device.

Here such a situation is excluded, but necessary protection the block is provided by a visor. An additional advantage is ease of maintenance. When choosing a location for the compressor you need to:

provide protection from sun or heating;
eliminate the threat of ignition of various vapors and gas leaks;
provide the required free space and distance from the floor around the perimeter of the block as required by the instructions;
prevent interference from constantly operating electrical appliances (distance of at least a meter);
guarantee the strength of the wall, preventing the structure from collapsing.

Installation of separate wiring

A split system, even in its most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than 1990.

It requires:

two-core wire with a cross-section of 1.5 to 2 mm, always copper;
16A circuit breaker.

If you plan to hide the wiring in a groove, then you should take care of this during the renovation so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after a renovation, the solution may be to install additional wiring in the box. In any case, this will allow:

avoid overloads;
prevent device failure;
eliminate the possibility of fire as a result of a short circuit.

Installing an external condenser unit

The complexity of this stage depends on the location where you decide to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:

on the open balcony;
on the loggia;
on the wall.

On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The protection function will be performed by a standard balcony canopy.

When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but you should remember that a closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will damage the air conditioner.

Open doors will help avoid this, which reduces the value of the loggia especially in winter time. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support a weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. To attach them, it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.

Mounting the evaporator and installing communications

Before installing it, you need to mark the mounting locations. Check them horizontally and vertically using a level. After this, the work is performed in the following order:

Holes are drilled according to the markings and anchors are inserted.
The mounting plate is secured with screws;
In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
A waterproofing cup with a tube is mounted in the holes.
a check is made to ensure that the wire is connected correctly to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
Tubes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding pipes.
If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts on, they are first flared.
A compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires using electrical tape, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
The indoor unit is hung on a mounting plate.

Having completed specified works, you can install the external unit on previously fixed brackets and lead the route to it. Excessive force should be avoided when bending the tubes to avoid deformation and wrinkles (the permissible bending radius is at least 100 mm). If the air conditioner hangs over the sidewalk, then it is necessary to take care of alternative options for discharging condensate indoors.

Sealing and vacuuming

It is impossible to install a split correctly without sealing and vacuuming the communications. Sealing of connections is carried out using a soap solution and a conventional bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, carefully tighten the nuts by 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.

Then vacuuming is performed, which removes air, dust and remaining moisture. For this:

open several running ports;
connect the vacuum pump through the service port;
turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mmHg;
close the low pressure lever;
turn off the pump, return plugs to all open ports.

Testing

Before checking, fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is activated using a circuit breaker. At correct execution After installing the air conditioner, it will automatically enter test mode. Its result should be:

normal flow of cold air;
correct position of the blinds;
condensate drainage through drainage.

If all the signs are present, the split can be used every day. Otherwise, you will need to contact specialists. In this case, the warranty for the air conditioner will be lost.

So it is still not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It’s better to immediately weigh your strengths and think about inviting a specialist.

The air conditioner should be selected and installed in advance, without waiting summer heat. This way you can save a significant amount, especially if you do. In order for the equipment to work without failures, installing the air conditioner yourself must be done strictly according to the instructions, in a suitable place. Inconsistency technical specifications or incorrect selection of parts will lead to rapid breakdown of the split system.

To install everything correctly, you should have an understanding of the structure and operating principle of the air conditioner. It consists of a compressor and an evaporation unit connected to each other by tubes. The compressor is mounted on the outside of the wall, and the evaporator is installed indoors. Dear models They have not one indoor unit, but several that are connected to one compressor.

Refrigerant is supplied to the evaporator unit through a nozzle under high pressure. It enters the evaporator chamber, where it expands, boils, and its vapor begins to intensively absorb heat. During this process, water condensate is released and settles on the radiator of the evaporation unit. From there, the moisture is directed into a reservoir and transported outside the building through a tube.

All this time, the compressor pumps out refrigerant evaporation from the chamber, increasing the pressure behind the pump. As a result, the refrigerant heats up and turns from a liquid into a high-density mist. In this state, the refrigerant enters the condensate chamber equipped with a radiator, is cooled by a fan and turns back into liquid. In this form, it is again supplied under pressure to the evaporator nozzle and the working process is repeated.

The efficiency of equipment operation and energy consumption directly depend on operating conditions. If any heating device is located near the air conditioner, the compressor is consumed and more likely to fail. Ordinary dust that gets inside the system can also cause a breakdown, and therefore carry out wet cleaning should be done regularly and very carefully. You cannot place various objects on the surface of the block, or cover it with anything.

To prevent refrigerant evaporation, all joints and connections should be carefully sealed during installation. The outdoor unit should be located lower than the indoor unit and, if possible, in the coolest place. It is good if the block is constantly in the shade from the overhang of the roof or walls. Compliance with these conditions will ensure uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner and a comfortable indoor climate.

Air conditioner part	Description
1. Fan	creates a flow of air blowing over the condenser
2. Capacitor	radiator in which cooling and condensation of freon occurs. The air blown through the condenser is heated accordingly
3. Compressor	compresses freon and maintains its movement along the refrigeration circuit. The compressor is of piston or scroll type. Piston compressors cheaper, but less reliable than spiral ones, especially in conditions of low outside temperatures
4. Control board	Installed only on inverter air conditioners. In non-inverter models, they try to place all electronics in the indoor unit, since large differences in temperature and humidity reduce the reliability of electronic components
5. Four way valve	installed in reversible (heat - cold) air conditioners. In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of movement of freon. At the same time, internal and outdoor unit seem to change places: the indoor unit works for heating, and the outdoor unit works for cooling
6. Union connections	connect to them copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units
7. Freon system filter	is installed in front of the compressor inlet and protects it from copper chips and other small particles that may enter the system during installation of the air conditioner. Of course, if the installation was carried out in violation of the technology and the system got into a large number of garbage, then the filter will not help
8. Protective quick-release cover	covers the fitting connections and terminal block used to connect electrical cables. In some models, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, and the fitting connections remain outside

	Description
1. Front panel	It is a plastic grill through which air enters the unit. The panel can be easily removed for servicing the air conditioner (cleaning filters, etc.)
2. Coarse filter	is a plastic mesh and is designed to retain coarse dust, animal hair, etc. For normal operation of the air conditioner, the filter must be cleaned at least twice a month
3. Filter fine cleaning	It happens various types: charcoal (removes unpleasant odors), electrostatic (retains fine dust), etc. The presence or absence of fine filters does not have any effect on the operation of the air conditioner
4. Fan	has 3 - 4 rotation speeds
5. Evaporator	a radiator in which cold freon is heated and evaporated. The air blown through the radiator is cooled accordingly
6. Horizontal blinds	adjust the direction of the air flow vertically. These blinds are electrically driven and their position can be adjusted from the remote control. remote control. In addition, the blinds can automatically perform oscillatory movements to evenly distribute air flow throughout the room
7. Display panel	On the front panel of the air conditioner there are indicators (LEDs) showing the operating mode of the air conditioner and signaling possible malfunctions
8. Vertical blinds	serve to adjust the direction of the air flow horizontally. IN household air conditioners The position of these blinds can only be adjusted manually. The ability to adjust from the remote control is only available in some premium air conditioner models
Condensate tray	located under the evaporator and serves to collect condensate (water formed on the surface of the cold evaporator). Water is discharged from the sump to the outside through a drainage hose.
Control board	usually located with right side indoor unit. This board contains an electronics unit with a central microprocessor
Union connections	located at the lower rear of the indoor unit. Copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them.

Air conditioner installation tools

If you are planning to install the air conditioner yourself, you need to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need:

In addition, you will need a whole bay of copper tube with factory-rolled ends. Scratches, dents and similar defects are not allowed.

It is best to install an air conditioner during overhaul, since you will have to break through the wall and damage the finish.

Video - How the air conditioner works

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Air conditioner installation instructions

If the tools have been purchased, the air conditioner has been delivered and unpacked, you can get to work. The outdoor unit is installed first, and then the system is installed indoors. During the installation process, we must not forget about safety precautions, especially if the work is carried out at the level of the second floor and above.

Mounting the outdoor unit

When installing an air conditioner in a private house, there are no particular difficulties in placing the outdoor unit, but the location must be chosen very carefully. The unit body should not block the view of neighbors, and condensation should not flow down the wall of the house. In this case, the air conditioner should be mounted within reach from the balcony, since such equipment requires periodic maintenance.

It is best if the block is fixed on the east or north side of the window or balcony, and preferably in its lower part. This way it won’t disturb anyone, and you can easily reach it through an open window. Using a level, mark the mounting locations for the brackets and drill holes in the wall for the anchor bolts. To lay interblock communications, they drill through hole with a diameter of 80 mm. IN brick wall It is recommended to drill along the seam between the bricks - it will take less time and the hole will be neater.

The brackets are installed according to the markings, aligned and the bolts are securely tightened. The outdoor unit itself is fixed so that at least 10 cm remains between the radiator and the wall surface. The connection is made a little later, and then the resulting gaps are sealed. If the block is securely attached to a vertical surface, you can proceed to the next step.

The indoor unit must not be mounted behind curtains, above a battery, or in rooms with sources of electrical interference that could cause damage to the block processor. After choosing a location, be sure to check the wall for the absence of already laid communications - electrical wiring, water or heating pipes.

If the area is free, attach a mounting plate: step back 10 cm from the ceiling, 5 cm from the corner of the wall and mark a horizontal line with a pencil. Drill holes for fasteners and securely screw the plate. The internal unit of the air conditioner is mounted on the plate, after which a hole is drilled in the side wall for communication connections - electrical wiring, pipes, hoses for condensate drainage.

Connecting electrical wiring

For the block, they lay their own indoors, the minimum cross-section of which is 1.5 square meters. mm. Be sure to install an automatic shutdown. When the wiring is laid, it is connected to the panel at the input: wire yellow color with a green stripe is connected to the neutral wire. To determine zero and phase, you should use an indicator.

After that, isolated stranded wires connect the terminals of both blocks by passing them through a hole in the wall. The names of the terminals must match the wires; everything is clearly described in the instructions supplied with the air conditioner.

Copper tubes must be cut, leaving a margin of about a meter for bends. When bending tubes, special tools are used to avoid wrinkles, dents and cracking of the metal. The prepared tubes are covered with thermal insulation - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber is not suitable as a sealant, as it has a short service life.

Threaded flanges are placed on insulated pipes, and the thread should be located at the end of the tube. The next stage is tube flaring. Flaring must be carried out very carefully so that cracks and grooves do not form on the tubes. The nut should fit easily onto the flared joint, and it is better to tighten it with a torque wrench - this will prevent the flared joints from being squeezed out of the nut.

The pipelines are alternately attached to the corresponding fittings, which are difficult to confuse due to different diameters. The flanges are screwed onto the fittings so that the connection is tight, but not pinched, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the tube. Finally, a piece of plastic tube with a reinforced body is connected to the drain pipe. Fastening is carried out with a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing or a threaded flange, if included in the kit. The drainage pipe should be taken away from the load-bearing wall as far as possible.

Now the pipes are inserted into the hole, aligned, and secured from the outside tightly to the wall with clamps. The wiring cable is fixed nearby and the pipeline is connected to the external unit. The hole is blown out polyurethane foam or filled with silicone. All external connections are checked for leaks using a bicycle pump and soap solution. If air is leaking somewhere, tighten the thread more tightly. After checking, the soap deposits are wiped off the threads with a clean cloth.

Evacuating the system

Evacuating the system makes it possible to remove the smallest particles of dust and moisture. This process is performed after sealing threaded connections, otherwise it will not be possible to completely pump out the air. To do this, connect a vacuum pump to the system and pump out the air for an hour.

Filling and testing the air conditioner

The refrigerant from the cylinder must be pumped into the system. An adapter and a pressure gauge are connected to the cylinder, and then, strictly monitoring the pressure, the tank is filled. When the process is completed, the circuit breaker on the air conditioner is turned on, after which the system independently enters test mode. If everything works smoothly and the circulation of cold air becomes uniform, you can close the hole in the wall, remove the consequences of installation and enjoy the coolness.

Find out how it is carried out, and also familiarize yourself with step by step guide, from our new article.

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