Cable for connecting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. How to install the air conditioner yourself - step by step instructions

So your dream has come true - an air conditioner has appeared in the house, now the heat in the summer and dampness in the room in the off-season, when the heating has not yet been connected, and it is raining outside, are not terrible. Immediately after the installation, the air conditioner is connected to the mains - it must be carried out strictly according to the schemes indicated on the internal covers of the modules. The operating instructions also contain recommendations for making the connection and set out the basic requirements for the electrical network of the installation site.

It must be remembered that circuit diagram connection of an air conditioner used in everyday life differs significantly from a similar connection of semi-industrial models that are installed in offices. Homemade have only single-phase connection.

In practice, there are two main ways by which a split system is connected:

• direct connection through the socket;
• separate wiring to the electrical panel.

The first option is ideal for all household devices - they are everywhere put into operation only in this way. Connecting any air conditioning system is carried out in several steps, which must be strictly observed when you decide to do everything yourself.

Scheme of connecting the air conditioner to the mains

The figure shows the connection diagram of the air conditioner to the mains, as well as various connections between the modules of the system, in addition, you will definitely need a circuit diagram of the air conditioner of the purchased model.

First way

Before connecting the product to the network, it is necessary to lay cables from evaporator to outdoor unit:

• we lay the wire that will connect the two blocks;
• we draw a separate line to the electrical panel for powerful systems, which includes a cable and an overload protection circuit breaker;
• average power devices are connected directly through an ordinary outlet.

The last option for connecting an air conditioner is used in certain cases:

• the power of the product is small;
• climate system window or mobile class;
• the apartment has a network of sufficient power;
• temporary location of the unit;
• other household appliances must not be connected to this line.

Important! To connect the indoor unit, you need to use reinforced sockets and install a circuit breaker nearby.

It should be borne in mind that the air conditioner operates in different modes, its power varies from a minimum to a maximum value, therefore a separate protection must be installed on the connection line.

Each manufacturer, before sending the product for sale, attaches an instruction to it, in which are enclosed:

• scheme of the product;
• circuit diagram connections - common;
• wiring diagram for connecting external and indoor unit.

There is similar information on the surface of the remote unit body and the evaporator cover, but it is applied from the inside. This greatly simplifies the independent connection of any air conditioning system at home.

Under the front panel of the evaporator there is a special box where wiring terminals- this unit of the air conditioner or split system is always mounted indoors.

The wires from the evaporator are connected to the contacts of the outdoor unit, guided by the numbering, the free cores are carefully insulated with a special tape. The schematic diagram will help you understand everything correctly. Before connecting the air conditioning system, check insulation of each core so that later the normal operation of the air conditioner is not interrupted by a short circuit.

Important! If the system diagram is incomprehensible to you, there is no practice in working with electricity, then it’s better not to try to connect the split system yourself, but call a professional.

There are reasons that do not allow the connection of any air conditioning system to the electrical network of an apartment or a country house:

• old wiring where aluminum wire was used;
• the cross section of the wires is too small - they will not withstand the load;
• the condition of the wiring requires its urgent replacement;
• there is no high-quality grounding, elementary protection against voltage drops.

Air conditioning systems are rather delicate devices, so they should only be connected to serviceable electrical network not to waste family budget for a very expensive repair.

Second way

Experts advise using the most reliable and safe option for connecting an air conditioner - an individual cable that ensures the stability of the device. If you install a separate protection - RCD (residual current device), then it will protect the product from any voltage drop or network overload, and an individual line will allow you to place the system modules anywhere.

Standard requirements for the components of a separate electrical line:

• necessarily the presence of RCD or AZO(protective shutdown machine);
• all conductors must be made of copper;
• the diameter of the wire must correspond to the size prescribed by the manufacturer;
• equip separate ground for the entire line.

Electric harnesses are passed into a protective hose, then they are placed in a special plastic box design so as not to violate the integrity of the walls. Watch how the professionals make the connection on a special video:

Work algorithm

When home master confident in his abilities and knows perfectly how various household appliances are connected, then he can safely begin work according to a fairly simple scheme.

1. We select a set necessary tool and the required materials.
2. We study the schemes proposed by the manufacturer.
3. We make cable routing to connect the terminals outdoor unit to the same connectors on the air conditioner evaporator.
4. We check the correct operation of all components of the product.

It does not depend on the design of the product, where the cable for connecting to the outlet comes from - from the evaporator or from the external module.

Choosing an outlet

The home outlet must meet certain requirements:

• welcome differential relay or reliable grounding;
• it must fully meet all the requirements and parameters that the manufacturers have compiled, according to the annexes in the instructions for using the split system;
• if electricity is supplied to the outlet by aluminum wires, it must be changed to copper counterparts with a normal cross section;
• it must be connected to the shield through the circuit breaker.

Modern standard euro sockets ideal for connection household appliances special power, but all work on connecting the air conditioner must be carried out by a specialist with the appropriate approval, otherwise the product warranty will be canceled. If you moved to a new place and decided to install a product that was already working, especially since you did the dismantling yourself, then follow the recommendations and do everything carefully.

We select the wire

To make the correct connection of the air conditioner with your own hands, you must use a wire of only such a section, which is indicated by the manufacturer individually for each model. Household products require the use of a cross section within 1.5-2.5 squares (mm 2), and the current strength will be up to 18 amperes or more, respectively.

If the distance between the system and the electrical panel is up to 10 m, then a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 will do, when the distance is greater, then the cross section increases.

For effective work climate systems use copper wires: for a single-phase connection - 3 cores, for a three-phase version - 5 cores.

Wires are not laid next to pipes heating system and gas supply, the standard distance between communications is not closer than a meter. Electrical harnesses assembled in a protective corrugation are placed in strobes, and secured with special clamps.

When laying communications using boxes, glue and screws are used to fix the wiring. When do concealed wiring , then in the strobes the cables are fixed with special clamps, and then they are plastered with building plaster so that they can be quickly opened in case of emergency.

We connect the evaporator

In principle, the method of connecting the system modules is identical, with the exception of minor nuances, so we present detailed methodology connection of the internal module, and remote - by analogy with it.

After the connection of both modules is completed, check again correct connection, referring to the diagrams, only after a rigorous check is a trial and short-term switching on of the air conditioner.

In conclusion, I would like to warn all users again: electricity does not forgive mistakes and inaccuracies, therefore, when self-connection adequately treat your skills, so that later you do not have to extinguish the wiring and repair expensive climate equipment.

Actually, this task is divided into two:

• Connecting an outdoor unit to an indoor unit
• Connecting the indoor unit to the mains

And if everything is clear with the first task: the manufacturer even completes its product with the appropriate cable, then the second part of the process needs to be dealt with in more detail.

If the air conditioner is low-power, and the home electrical network is not overloaded with energy-consuming appliances, then connecting the air conditioner to electricity made elementary: plug into a socket. But in this case too wiring diagram for air conditioner must be equipped with a residual current device and a power breaker capable of operating at a current of at least 20 amperes.

Connection of indoor and outdoor units

Wiring diagram for air conditioner into the home network can only be implemented if the network is grounded and made on copper (not aluminum!) Wires.
In the event that these requirements are not met, it is necessary to connect to a network that already has powerful power-consuming devices (electric kettle, heater, etc.), a high-power air conditioner, or when there is a dilapidated electrical network in an apartment or office, then it is necessary to make a separate power line from the electrical panel to the indoor unit. The conditions are the same:

Connecting the air conditioner to the electrical panel

• grounding required
• the line must be connected to an automatic machine of at least 20 amperes and a residual current device
• connection is possible only with copper wires

The cable and wires must be selected according to

Because the circuit must be grounded, then a three-core cable is selected. Most often used cable for connecting the air conditioner brand VVG according to GOST R 53769-2010.

Cable for connecting an air conditioner in accordance with GOST R 53769-2010

Wire for connecting the air conditioner choose from the following conditions:

• with an air conditioner power of up to 3 kW, a wire cross section of 1.5 mm 2 is sufficient
• with an air conditioner power of 3 to 5 kW, the wire cross section should be 2.5 mm 2
• with an air conditioner power of 5 to 8 kW, the wire cross section should be 4 mm 2
• with an air conditioner power of more than 8 kW, the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wire is more than 4 mm 2

Do-it-yourself air conditioner connection

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Do-it-yourself air conditioner connection

• A separate machine for air conditioning is installed on the shield
• We connect the phase wire of the cable (black or brown) to the output terminal of the machine
• The blue wire of the cable is attached to the neutral bus of the electrical panel
• The yellow or green wire of the cable is installed to ground

Distribution of power wires on the indoor unit of the air conditioner

• On the indoor unit of the air conditioner, the black wire is connected to the L terminal
• Blue wire - to terminal N
• Yellow or green wire is connected to the ground terminal
• The connection of the outdoor and indoor unit of the air conditioner is carried out with wires of the same section as the connection of the automatic switchboard with the indoor unit
• The wires connecting the air conditioner units should be placed in a corrugated tube

The air conditioner should be selected and installed in advance, without waiting summer heat. So you can save a significant amount, especially if you complete it. In order for the equipment to work without failures, do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner must be carried out strictly according to the instructions, in a suitable place for this. Mismatch specifications or incorrect selection of parts will lead to a quick breakdown of the split system.

To properly install everything, you should have an idea about the device and the principle of operation of the air conditioner. It consists of a compressor and an evaporator unit connected by pipes. The compressor is mounted on the outside of the wall, and the evaporator is installed indoors. Expensive models have not one indoor unit, but several that are connected to one compressor.

The refrigerant is supplied under high pressure through the nozzle into the evaporator block. It enters the evaporator chamber, expands there, boils, and its vapors begin to intensively absorb heat. During this process, water condensate is released and settles on the radiator of the evaporative unit. From there, the moisture is sent to the tank and is discharged through the tube outside the building.

All this time, the compressor pumps out the refrigerant vapor from the chamber, increasing the pressure behind the pump. As a result, the refrigerant heats up and turns from a liquid into a high-density mist. In this state, the refrigerant enters the condensate chamber equipped with a radiator, is cooled by a fan and turns into a liquid again. In this form, it is again fed under pressure into the evaporator nozzle and the working process is repeated.

The efficiency of the equipment and the energy consumption directly depend on the operating conditions. If a heater is located near the air conditioner, the compressor consumes and fails more often. Ordinary dust that has got inside the system can also cause a breakdown, and therefore carry out wet cleaning should be done regularly and very carefully. You can not put various objects on the surface of the block, as well as cover it with something.

To prevent the evaporation of the refrigerant, all joints and connections should be carefully sealed during installation. The outdoor unit should be placed lower than the indoor unit and in the coolest place possible. It is good if the unit is constantly in the shade from the overhang of the roof or walls. Compliance with these conditions will ensure uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner and a comfortable indoor climate.

Air conditioner detail	Description
1. Fan	creates a stream of air blowing around the condenser
2. Capacitor	a radiator in which freon is cooled and condensed. The air blown through the condenser is heated accordingly
3. Compressor	compresses freon and keeps it moving along the refrigeration circuit. The compressor can be piston or scroll (scroll) type. Reciprocating compressors are cheaper but less reliable than scroll compressors, especially in low outdoor temperatures.
4. Control board	installed only on inverter air conditioners. In non-inverter models, they try to place all electronics in the indoor unit, since large fluctuations in temperature and humidity reduce the reliability of electronic components
5. Four way valve	installed in reversible (heat - cold) air conditioners. In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of freon movement. At the same time, internal and outdoor unit as if they change places: the indoor unit works for heating, and the outdoor unit works for cooling
6. Unions	are connected to them copper pipes connecting outdoor and indoor units
7. Freon system filter	is installed in front of the compressor inlet and protects it from copper chips and other small particles that may enter the system during the installation of the air conditioner. Of course, if the installation was carried out in violation of the technology and the system got a large number of garbage, the filter will not help
8. Protective quick-release cover	closes the fittings and the terminal block used to connect electrical cables. In some models, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, and the union connections remain outside

	Description
1. Front panel	It is a plastic grill through which air enters the unit. The panel can be easily removed for maintenance of the air conditioner (cleaning filters, etc.)
2. Coarse filter	is a plastic mesh and is designed to trap coarse dust, animal hair, etc. For normal operation of the air conditioner, the filter must be cleaned at least twice a month
3. Filter fine cleaning	happens various types: charcoal (removes unpleasant odors), electrostatic (retains fine dust), etc. The presence or absence of fine filters has no effect on the operation of the air conditioner
4. Fan	has 3 - 4 rotation speeds
5. Evaporator	a radiator in which cold freon is heated and evaporated. The air blown through the radiator is cooled accordingly
6. Horizontal blinds	Adjust the direction of the air flow vertically. These blinds are electrically operated and their position can be adjusted from the remote control. remote control. In addition, the blinds can automatically make oscillatory movements to evenly distribute the air flow throughout the room.
7. Display panel	indicators (LEDs) are installed on the front panel of the air conditioner, showing the operating mode of the air conditioner and signaling possible malfunctions
8. Vertical blinds	are used to adjust the direction of the airflow horizontally. V domestic air conditioners These shutters can only be adjusted manually. The ability to control from the remote control is only in some models of premium air conditioners
Condensate tray	located under the evaporator and serves to collect condensate (water that forms on the surface of a cold evaporator). Water is drained from the sump through a drain hose.
Control board	usually located with right side indoor unit. This board contains an electronics unit with a central microprocessor
Union connections	located at the bottom rear of the indoor unit. Copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them.

Air conditioner installation tools

If you are going to install the air conditioner yourself, you need to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need:

In addition, you will need a whole bay of copper tube with factory-rolled ends. Scratches, dents and similar defects are not allowed.

The best time to install the air conditioner is overhaul, because you have to break through the wall and damage the finish.

Video - The principle of operation of the air conditioner

Prices for accessories for air conditioners

Accessories for air conditioners

Air conditioner installation instructions

If the tools are purchased, the air conditioner is delivered and unpacked, you can get to work. The outdoor unit is installed first, and then the system is mounted indoors. During the installation process, one should not forget about safety, especially if the work is carried out at the level of the second floor and above.

Outdoor unit fixing

When installing an air conditioner in a private house, there are no particular difficulties in placing the outdoor unit, but the place must be chosen very carefully. The block housing should not block the view of neighbors, and condensate should not flow down the wall of the house. At the same time, the air conditioner should be mounted within reach from the balcony, since such equipment needs periodic maintenance.

It is best if the block is fixed to the east or north side of the window or balcony, and preferably in its lower part. So he will not interfere with anyone, and you can easily reach him through an open window. Using a level, mark the places where the brackets are attached and drill holes in the wall for anchor bolts. For laying inter-unit communications, they drill through hole 80 mm in diameter. V brick wall it is recommended to drill along the seam between the bricks - it will take less time and the hole will turn out neater.

Brackets are installed according to the markup, align and securely tighten the bolts. The outdoor unit itself is fixed so that at least 10 cm remains between the radiator and the wall surface. The connection is made a little later, at the same time the resulting gaps are closed. If the unit is securely mounted on a vertical surface, you can proceed to the next step.

The indoor unit must not be mounted behind curtains, above a battery, or in rooms with sources of electrical interference that can cause damage to the block processor. After choosing a place, be sure to check the wall for the absence of already laid communications - electrical wiring, plumbing or heating pipes.

If the site is free, fix the mounting plate: step back from the ceiling 10 cm, from the corner of the wall 5 cm and mark a horizontal line with a pencil. Drill holes for the fasteners and screw the plate securely. The indoor unit of the air conditioner is mounted on the plate, after which a hole is drilled in the side wall for a communication connection - electrical wiring, pipes, hoses for condensate drainage.

Wiring connection

For a block indoors, they lay their own, the minimum cross section of which is 1.5 square meters. mm. Be sure to install an automatic shutdown. When the wiring is laid, it is connected to the input shield: a yellow wire with a green stripe is connected to the neutral wire. To determine the zero and phase, use the indicator.

After that, the terminals of both blocks are connected with insulated stranded wires, passing them through a hole in the wall. The names of the terminals must necessarily match the wires, everything is clearly written in the instructions attached to the air conditioner.

Copper pipes must be cut, leaving a margin for bends of about a meter. When bending tubes, special tools are used to avoid wrinkles, dents and cracking of the metal. Thermal insulation is put on the prepared tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber is not suitable as a sealant, as it has a short service life.

Threaded flanges are put on insulated pipes, while the thread should be located at the end of the tube. The next step is flaring the tubes. Flaring must be done very carefully so that cracks and grooves do not form on the tubes. The nut should be easily put on the flare, and it is better to tighten it with a torque wrench - this will prevent the flared connections from being squeezed out of the nut.

Pipelines are alternately attached to the corresponding fittings, which are difficult to confuse due to different diameters. The flanges are screwed on the fittings so that the connection is tight, but not pinched, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the tube. In conclusion, a piece of plastic tube with a reinforced body is connected to the drain pipe. Fastening is carried out with a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing or a threaded flange, if it is included in the kit. The drain pipe should be taken away from the bearing wall as far as possible.

Now the pipes are led into the hole, leveled, from the outside they are fixed tightly to the wall with clamps. The wiring cable is fixed nearby, the pipeline is connected to the outdoor unit. The hole is blown out mounting foam or filled with silicone. All external connections are checked with a bicycle pump and a soapy solution for leaks. If air is leaking somewhere, the thread is tightened more tightly. After checking, the soap coating is wiped from the thread with a clean cloth.

Vacuum system

Vacuuming the system makes it possible to remove the smallest particles of dust and moisture. This process is carried out after sealing the threaded connections, otherwise it will not be possible to completely pump out the air. To do this, a vacuum pump is connected to the system and air is pumped out for an hour.

Filling and testing the air conditioner

The refrigerant from the cylinder must be pumped into the system. An adapter and a pressure gauge are connected to the cylinder, and then, strictly monitoring the pressure, the reservoir is filled. When the process is completed, the automatic disconnector is turned on on the air conditioner, after which the system automatically enters the test mode. If everything works smoothly and the circulation of cold air becomes uniform, you can close the hole in the wall, clean up the consequences of installation and enjoy the coolness.

Find out how it is carried out, and also check out step by step guide, from our new article.

Prices for the range of air conditioners

Air conditioners

Video - Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation

Any air conditioner consists of two parts with different functions: a refrigeration circuit that performs the function of air cooling and an electrical part that controls devices and elements of the circuit.

This article will discuss the electrical circuit of the air conditioner, the options for connecting it to the power supply and how to properly connect the air conditioner to the mains.

What is the electrical circuit of a split system

An air conditioner wiring diagram is a document that shows the location of electronic components, their connection, as well as information for service center engineers. Everyone who is involved is more interested in the electrical connection diagram of the air conditioner, which includes the location of the main devices of the evaporator and condenser unit, terminals for connecting the units to each other and connecting the power supply.

The main elements here are:

• Compressor, with CSR outputs. The arrow shows the protection installed on the compressor winding
• Compressorcapacitor - a capacitor, with two leads connected to the windings of the compressor unit. The third terminal of the capacitor is connected to its starting winding.
• In addition, the diagram shows a fan motor and a capacitor through which two motor windings are connected.
• The diagram shows an electromagnet that controls the operation of a four-way valve.

Terminal designations in the terminal block:

1(N) is zero.

3 - Power supply to the fan motor when it is running at low speeds.

4 - Power supply to the fan motor when it is running at high speeds.

Separate terminal - ground.
Main modules and blocks:

• Power filter through which voltage is supplied to the control board.
• Control board is a control unit to which all device modules are connected.
• The compressor power relay is connected to CN 12.
• A drain pump is connected to CN6.
• The CN 5 terminal block is responsible for controlling the split system fan.
• To the terminals of CN 10, a stepper motor for controlling the louvre is connected.
• The CN 7 terminals are responsible for connecting the heat exchanger temperature sensor.
• A room temperature sensor is connected to terminals 1 and 2 of the CN15 terminal block.
• A water level sensor in the sump is connected to terminals 1 and 3 of the CN15 terminal block.
• Terminal block CN 13 of the control unit is responsible for connecting the display unit of the device.

Terminal block (marked on the board as Terminal) for connecting the evaporator and condenser units with a cable. Terminals L and N - power supply of the air conditioner from the electric line. gears. You should know what exists with connecting the air conditioner to the mains through an external unit.

With this connection, you must follow the instructions. If climatic equipment with a power of up to 4.5 kW is connected, then a four-core copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 should be used. With a separate power branch, a 20 A automatic machine must be installed on the shield.

Connecting an air conditioner

After they must be interconnected by a four-wire copper cable with a cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe core of at least 2.5 mm 2. The connection instruction is a circuit diagram, which was discussed in sufficient detail above. The connecting cable can be laid together with the freon line, or maybe in a separate plastic box.

When laying in one strobe together with copper pipes, use a corrugated plastic tube to insulate the cable.

After the inter-unit electrical connection, connect the indoor unit to the power supply. The scheme for connecting the air conditioner to the mains involves receiving power both from the nearest outlet and from a separate line.

An ideal option for connecting a sufficiently powerful climate equipment is a separate power line. This option will not load the already existing lines of the apartment electrical system and will allow you to supply power directly to the indoor unit of the split system. The laying of the power cable from the shield to the indoor unit can be done along a grooved groove in the wall material or in a special plastic box.

The shield from which a separate power line will be drawn must be grounded. Connecting the power cable to the terminal block of the shield should be carried out only through the machine, the power of which should be calculated according to the formula: the power of the device divided by the voltage. 30% of the margin should be added to the resulting value.

It should be understood that the power cable for climate control equipment can be connected to the outlet only if:

• The air conditioner has little power.
• The intra-house electrical network is laid with a copper cable with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm 2.
• There are no energy-intensive consumers on the same branch with air conditioning.
• Supposed to be temporary.
• This branch of power supply is equipped with an automatic device with an RCD of at least 20 A.

Options for connecting an air conditioner to an existing power line

This issue could not be considered, due to the presence of sockets in the room. But, some owners of low-power climate equipment are unhappy with the stretching wire from the outlet to the consumer, often through the entire wall.

If the outlet is far enough from the air conditioner, then there is an option to connect the air conditioner to the mains through a switch. We warn you right away: this option is only suitable for low-power climate control equipment, and here's why: the terminals of a conventional switch may simply not withstand the current passing through them. As a result, heating, sparking, failure of the switch (at best) or fire.

It is better to make a groove in the wall from the existing outlet and lay the power cable through it in the corrugated pipe to the split system unit, and then mount a special outlet with a decorative overlay into the wall. The socket must withstand a certain current: if the power is 1 kW, then the socket must withstand 9-10 A; from 1 to 3 kW - 16-18 A; from 3 to 4.6 kW - 20 A; from 4.6 to 5.5 - at least 25 A. Right choice best left to a qualified electrician.

If you decide to connect the air conditioner with your own hands, then do it in compliance with all safety regulations, and in order to be completely sure that the connection process went correctly and safely for the climate control equipment and the inhabitants of the home, it is best to seek help from professionals.

Translated from English word split means "crack", but there are other, less common translations, namely "split". This article describes the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, and specifically a split system, which consists of divided blocks. Since the installation of the air conditioning system itself is quite an expensive undertaking, it will be useful to learn how you can install it yourself.

Installing an air conditioning system is no easy task. In order to connect everything correctly, you need to know how it all works:

- through the spinneret (nozzle in the form of a narrow hole) into the evaporator chamber under pressure, a rapidly boiling liquid is poured, used to cool the air - this is a refrigerant. In the chamber, the liquid expands, boils, evaporates and thereby consumes a large amount of warm air.

— water condensate settles on the evaporator heater during operation. It flows into a special reservoir, from which it exits (to the street) through a drainage tube.

- The compressor, like a vacuum pump, constantly pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. From high pressure, the temperature of the refrigerant rises to such an extent that it goes into a supercritical state similar to a very dense fog.

- then the refrigerant passes into the condensation chamber, in which there is a heater blown by a fan. Under cold air, the temperature of the refrigerant changes critically again, this time it cools and turns into a liquid.

- liquid refrigerant through the nozzle again enters the evaporator and the cycle is constantly repeated.

What helps and what hinders the operation of the air conditioner

In order for the split system to function properly and at the same time save energy during installation, it is important to fulfill the following conditions:

- prevent the penetration of warm air into the equipment - when cold and hot zones come into contact, electricity consumption increases greatly. In this situation, the compressor is forced to distill the heat inside the system, and this is an additional cost.

- observe the tightness of the system - due to its depressurization, rapidly boiling liquids can simply evaporate. This can happen even through the smallest hole.

- the external unit must be placed lower than the internal one - this will create a thermosiphon effect (warm liquid rises), which makes the compressor work easier. If this is not done, then an excessive consumption of electricity will be inevitable, since the liquid will rise, overcoming the reverse thermosiphon effect.

- the outdoor unit must be located in a cool place, in the shade - additional heating from the outside increases the power consumption for cooling the system.

- the drainage tube should not be allowed to bend upwards, since such convolutions are instantly populated by microbes and mold, and as a result become a source of infection.

What is an air split

A split system differs from a household, conventional air conditioner in that it consists of separated blocks. One of them is external, the compressor works in it, and condensate is also collected. The second block is internal, in which the thermostatic fluid evaporates. Many modern split systems not only cool the air in the room, but also heat it up to the required temperature. When the air is heated, the cycle works in reverse, and the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit, while evaporation occurs in the outdoor unit. For this reason, in general, blocks are simply referred to as external (external) and internal.

It also happens that several internal ones work with one external unit. At the same time, they can work separately, and cool and heat the air. But this only occurs in expensive models split systems. Such air conditioning systems, although expensive, in the process of work are more economical than their cheaper counterparts. This is because in such a situation, the heat exchange inside the room does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner to work.

When to install the air conditioner

The installation of a split system in the house will be better done during the repair period. There is a lot of work to be done on the replacement and installation of electrical wiring. It is good that the wall decoration has not yet been completed before the installation begins. Otherwise, there will be costs associated with re-finishing the interior.

Required Tools

In order for the installation of the split system to pass without delay, and after a few days the equipment does not fail, it is necessary to use quality tools. For installation you will need:

- a puncher with a set of chisels - you have to make holes in the wall with a diameter of up to 10 centimeters.

- rebar finder (if the wall is made of reinforced concrete) - if the perforator gets into the rebar, then the hole will have to be punched again.

- pipe cutter - only they need to cut the pipes. If you cut the refrigerant pipes with a simple hacksaw, then there will definitely be particles of metal chips around the edges, which will lead to a compressor malfunction.

- a set for expanding tubes - if you try to bend the edges of the tube with improvised tools, you will not be able to achieve complete symmetry.

- scraper - a tool that is used to strip the ends of the tubes. A file is not suitable for this purpose because of the danger of small particles getting inside the compressor.

- hand pump (bicycle) - it is useful for checking the system for leaks.

- vacuum pump - used to create a vacuum system before filling it. Many experts advise to simply flush with refrigerant, but this does not remove residual moisture, and as a result, the compressor can be damaged, similar to the situation with metal chips.

- phase indicator and tester - these devices will be useful when replacing wiring.

- manometer.

- pipeline.

Selecting the required tubes

For security best solution will purchase a whole bay of copper tubing. This is justified, since small chips may remain in the cut tube, which, during operation, can disable the compressor. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that there is factory flaring on the edges of the tube, and that there are no cracks, creases or other defects on the tube. With a long piping, the outdoor unit can be lowered much lower than the indoor unit. In this case, the excess consumption of material will quickly pay off, since the resulting effect of the thermosiphon will reduce the cost of energy consumption of the equipment.

Cutting, cleaning and shaping tubes

Before starting the installation of the air conditioner, it is necessary to make a test flaring, scraping and cutting the tube. A special tool is used for flaring; before work, you need to carefully examine and study its device, possible defects during use, and know what the end result looks like. When buying a whole bay, it is best to purchase a small piece for trial work, since it is not recommended to cut the bay for this purpose. Cutting the tube is done with a circular motion of the pipe cutter. Next, you need to make a scraping, in which the tube should be end down so that the trimmings of the tube do not fall into the lumen and inside.

Mounting the outdoor unit

Independent installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on floors above the second, namely the external unit, is considered life-threatening and impractical. On the upper floors, installation can be done only if there is a balcony or loggias. The outdoor unit is easily and conveniently installed on the balcony on small and shallow brackets. A balcony is generally a convenient place to install an air conditioner, because it has a north or east side, which are just perfect for installation. But in the south, installing a split system is not so terrible, since a roof or a canopy will protect the external unit from overheating under the scorching sun even on the hottest day. It is on such a day that the air conditioner is very important.

Before installing the brackets, it is necessary to remove the glass for the installation period, and drive the holders into the lower part of the frame. In order not to spoil the sheathing of the loggia, you can bend the “roots” of the holders in the form of the letters “P” located horizontally.

Split system installation

Professional installation of a split system in the house takes place in a strict sequence:

- choice of location for the indoor unit,
- installation and replacement of electrical wiring,
- installation of the external unit,
- making a hole in the wall for pipes,
- pipeline laying,
– electrical installation of connections in blocks,
- Air conditioner leak test
- evacuation of the system,
- filling the system,
- power connection,
- test run sleeps system,
- isolation of interblock harnesses,
- capital sealing of holes,
- Pleasant use.

Below are some of the important stages split system installation.

Selecting the location of indoor units

There are a number of places where the indoor unit of a split system cannot be installed:

- over heating appliances;

- where there is no air access - behind curtains, partitions, screens and other seemingly insignificant obstacles;

- in rooms where there is equipment that causes electrical interference: workshops with power tools, kitchens with induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens. If this is neglected, then the processor unit will fail from radiation.

Attention! Air conditioning is not installed in the kitchen. Cooling of the air and the influx of new air is due to the house's own general ventilation.

Wiring Features

The power of the smallest air conditioner is 1.5 kW. For this reason, for the air conditioning system, it is simply necessary to lay a separate cable with a cable thickness of at least 2.5 square meters. mm. In addition, it is important to install an automatic machine that can turn off the electricity in case of an overload.

When connecting the wires to the power shield, you need to connect the yellow wire with a green stripe along its entire length to N (neutral wire). Using the phase indicator, you need to determine the phase and zero.

How to drill holes in a wall

It is important to correctly determine the position of the reinforcement in the wall. In the event that there was a hit in the armature, nothing can be done. You will have to drill a new hole. Damage to the reinforcement is unacceptable, as this is contrary to building codes. In addition to the described situation, there is another point. This stage will require a second person who will warn people passing below about the possible fall of pieces of concrete or brick. This cannot be ignored, because if a random piece falls on a person, then the consequences can be very serious, up to imprisonment.

The hole must be made with a diameter of more than 80 mm. The advices encountered about 50-60 mm most likely do not take into account thermal insulation.

Tubing installation

First you need to cut the tube of the required length with a margin of about one meter. Then you can start bending the pipeline. This is done very carefully so that there is no break or wrinkles. The bend of the tube must correspond to a radius of 100 mm or more. If wrinkles occur, they will create unnecessary resistance to the coolant and increase energy consumption as a result.

The next step is the thermal insulation of the tube. To do this, a hose made of polyurethane foam (flex) is put on it. It makes no sense to use other heaters, since they are short-lived and will become unusable after a season.

After that, it is necessary to put flanges on the tubes with threads to the ends of the tube and make flaring.

Next, we alternately connect the tubes to the existing fittings. At this stage, you need to be careful not to connect the cold fitting of the indoor unit to the hot fitting of the outdoor unit. Sometimes cold and hot fittings have different diameters.

The nuts on the fittings must be securely tightened, but not too tight, because the nuts will need to be tightened when sealing.

Part of a reinforced plastic tube can be used as drainage. It is connected to a waste pipe or a threaded nut. A piece of heat shrink tubing can also help. It is easily heated with a soldering iron, slightly touching the tube with a sting.

How to connect the air conditioner to the mains

To connect the blocks, you will need multi-core insulated wires with a thickness of 2.5 sq. mm. They connect the terminals of the blocks (internal and external), most often the terminals are the same. If the names of the terminals are different, then it is necessary to study the instructions in detail and get advice from a specialist. All wires, by analogy with tubes, are passed through previously made holes in the wall.

Sealing

For sealing, a soapy solution is used. To do this, you need to purchase distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it to a state of steam. Then gently mixing, you need to dissolve in it a tablespoon of chopped laundry soap.

There should be two people working here. It is necessary to remove the outlet nipple, and attach a rubber hose from a bicycle pump to its nozzle. The assistant gently pumps air, the other for everything threaded connections applying soap solution with a brush.

Then tighten the nuts until bubbles stop completely, and plus 1/8 turn from above. Soap deposits are removed with a damp cloth.

Vacuum cleaning process

The next step is the vacuuming process. It is necessary for the system to be cleaned of dust and moisture, which are removed along with the air. To do this, the nipple is screwed into place and a vacuum pump is attached to it. It must be tightened firmly. Then for an hour it is necessary to pump air. As a result, all residual moisture will evaporate.

Filling the system

The turn of the refrigerant has come, which needs to fill the system. To do this, a coolant bottle is connected to the system through an adapter with a pressure gauge. It should be filled until the pressure specified in the documentation is reached.

Important! Air conditioners that run on freon are not allowed to be filled with refrigerant and vice versa.

Test inclusion

When the machine is turned on, the split system must automatically enter the test mode. If this does not happen, then you need to start the test from the remote control. If this time it doesn’t work out, it means that the installation was done incorrectly and, in order not to completely disable the equipment, you need to call a specialist.

finishing touches

If the test activation was successful, then the blinds are set to the correct position and begin to sway. The bundle located between the blocks on top must be wrapped with aluminum foil. This will serve as a thermal shield, which will save up to 3% of electricity. The second layer of the tourniquet, together with the drainage tube, is wrapped with moisture-resistant insulating tape. The final touch is the capital sealing of the hole in the wall. You don't need to do this with foam. On this we can sum up the decisive result that the split system is independently installed and works properly.

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