Dismantling and assembling the split system Daewoo. We clean the split system ourselves - dismantling the indoor unit

There is a lot of information on the Internet, articles and videos on this issue, let's try to summarize with you a little and look from the technical side at the process of cleaning and maintaining a split system (air conditioner) both with our own hands and when calling specialists.

To begin with, I would like to answer a question that worries everyone and everything.

How often should the air conditioner be cleaned? There is no single answer, it depends on the operating conditions and habitat. Air conditioning in an apartment is one thing, and air conditioning in a Bar, Cafe or Pishcheblok is another matter. We will assume that we have a normal household air conditioner in an apartment, standard power 7-12 kbti.

We answer: air conditioner cleaning and maintenance annually!

What is the correct cleaning of the air conditioner?

The second question is what is meant by cleaning a split system (air conditioner). Filter cleaning indoor unit, can also be called cleaning, but there is little sense from such a "cleansing". Cleaning the air conditioner (split system) is primarily cleaning the heat exchangers (evaporator and condenser) of the indoor and outdoor units, cleaning the fan, cleaning the squirrel wheel, cleaning the drainage system.

How to clean split system filters?

Cleaning the split system filters should be accepted by default, the filters should be cleaned every two to three weeks. This lovely girl will show you how to do it right.

Well, how to clean the split so that it is of real use?

It is difficult to do this without a steam cleaner and a high pressure washer, but you can get by with improvised means, it is advisable to do such cleaning before each summer season. Found very good video on the Internet, how to properly clean the indoor unit of a split system on your own, look:

What is the difference between cleaning and maintaining an air conditioner (split)?

Maintenance is carried out by specialists using a steam cleaner and a sink, which in principle you can do yourself, but the key difference between maintenance and cleaning a split system is that specialists measure the freon pressure in the system, and, if necessary, refuel the required amount of freon to split refrigeration at an acceptable level. Diagnosis of electrical and installation connections is carried out automatically. In other words, cleaning the split system is part of the maintenance of air conditioners. I found a decent video, good guys, they explain everything in detail, we look:

After watching these videos and reading the article, I think it has become a little clearer to all of you what kind of animal "cleaning air conditioners" and "what it is eaten with." And you decide what to do, clean your split yourself, or call specialists. But I would like to summarize all of the above:

1) You can clean the air conditioner filters yourself every 2-3 weeks

2) Cleaning of the indoor unit (condenser, squirrel wheel, drain) must be carried out every season on your own or by calling specialists

3) Maintenance(comprehensive cleaning of the indoor and outdoor units, refueling with freon) must be carried out once every two or three years by calling the specialists

Numbers and prices

The average cost of cleaning a split system in Krasnodar is 1300-1500 rubles per season. This includes cleaning the indoor and outdoor units of the air conditioner, with analysis. With a steam cleaner and sink, sometimes just a steam cleaner. In good services, during the high season, there is usually a queue of at least 2-3 days. There are more, and then how lucky.

The annual loss of freon (microcracks and microleaks) laid down by the manufacturer is 5-7%.

Refueling with freon, if necessary, is not included in the cost of cleaning, and can be 500-1000 rubles additionally, depending on the amount of freon.

Today we’ll talk about how to disassemble the air conditioner, or rather the indoor unit of a wall-mounted split system. Any air conditioner requires regular maintenance, which includes disassembling and cleaning the units of the device. Cleaning outdoor unit, as a rule, does not cause difficulty, but it is already more difficult to disassemble the indoor unit.

Dismantling the indoor unit of the air conditioner

1. Turn off the air conditioner from the mains.

2. and remove the mesh filters. We do not close the lid.

3. Remove the housing of the internal device:

• any block below the blinds has self-tapping screws (they are most often located under decorative plugs). We unscrew these screws;

• under the cover of the indoor unit (where the filters) can also be self-tapping screws (or clips) - we unscrew (or snap off) them. Carefully open the bottom of the case;

• then our task is to “release” the clips on top of the case. They are very rigid, and in order to “snap them off” you need to carefully look at how they are attached (in most cases they “snap off” when you lift the bottom of the case towards you);

• disconnect all the chips from the case, if any;

• slightly open the blinds and remove the body (from below towards you or from above towards you, depending on the model).

4. The next task is to remove the drainage tray (in very rare models, it is not removed, but is made together with the entire body). It is important to consider how it is installed so that it “falls into place” during subsequent assembly. We recommend preparing a bag or container to drain possible condensate (water) from the tray:

• usually on the left of the tray, you need to unscrew one screw, then release the clips from the bottom;

• disconnect all the chips from the tray (or unscrew the blinds drive motor);

• carefully remove the tray and at the same time disconnect the “tail” of the drainage hose (it can be secured with a latch or self-tapping screw).

5. The next task is to remove the shaft (fan). This is the most difficult and responsible operation. There may be two options depending on the device of a particular model:

• more "easy situation" when the shaft is removed to the left without removing the motor and control unit (in this case, there must be a screw inside the shaft itself and the entire left side of the housing must be collapsible):
• unscrew and release the left side of the radiator from the body of the indoor unit;

• unscrew the screw on the right inside the shaft (not completely, but only a couple of turns). Here you need to act very carefully, not to break the shaft blades and not to spoil the screw head. This screw is often very "tight"!;

• remove the shaft down from the housing without damaging any parts (and your hands). Usually it is very tightly installed and requires experience to remove it. We can hold the screw with a screwdriver and thus push and guide the shaft.

When installing the shaft back, the screw must be very accurately screwed into place. Otherwise, the shaft may rotate or touch the walls of the housing.

• the most a difficult situation when you have to remove the control unit and the shaft motor (we warn you that in this case it is highly advisable to contact specialists):
  • remove the control unit from the air conditioner housing. To do this, disconnect all the sensors and wires that fit it. Then we release the clips and unscrew the screws that secure it;
  • unscrew the motor mount casing (usually 4 self-tapping screws). We unscrew all the screws that will help free the casing and shaft;
  • we carefully study how to disconnect the shaft from the motor and remove it from the housing. Most likely, you will have to carefully bend the copper tubes that fit the radiator.

To assemble the air conditioner, we perform the considered operations in reverse order.

Thus, we got a rather long, but enough detailed instructions how to disassemble the air conditioner.

If you notice that cold air coming out of the split system has an unpleasant sweet smell of rot - this means that the unit urgently needs preventive cleaning

Besides bad smell, clogging of the internal components of the air conditioner leads to faster wear of the power system of the device, increased power consumption and, most unpleasantly, can cause a number of allergic respiratory diseases.

Of course, you can entrust this procedure to a service worker, especially if the air conditioner is still under warranty. But if you have been using a split system for a long time and do not intend to pay big money for something that you can handle on your own, then you should know the procedure for disassembling the air conditioner for its preventive cleaning.

In fact, there are quite a lot of companies producing split systems today, but they all involve a more or less unified system for building indoor units. Therefore, even if you encounter some design differences, the basic disassembly technique will remain the same.

How to disassemble for maintenance the indoor unit of a split system

First of all, you should prepare a set of screwdrivers of various sizes and workspace configurations. Also, do not forget to put boxes for collecting fasteners next to you, as well as a functional and electrical diagram of the air conditioner (in some models circuit diagram applied to inside block top cover). To clean the internal elements of the split system, you need a vacuum cleaner, detergents and clean rags.

1. Turn off the power to the air conditioner . This is the first thing to do in order to comply with electrical safety rules. Do not turn off the air conditioner with the remote control button, but simply remove the plug from the socket.
2. Remove the top cover of the block . Remove a few bolts (two or three) covered with decorative caps and remove the top cover of the indoor unit of the air conditioner. The cover, covered with a layer of dirt and mold from the inside, should be washed in the bathroom using a brush and detergent.
3. Remove air filters . Remove the plastic air filters. They can be mounted both on the block cover and inside it. We also wash the filters under a strong stream of water, helping ourselves with a brush.
4. Remove the airflow guides . Slightly bending, remove from the grooves special blinds that direct the flow of cold air into the room. They, too, most likely need enhanced washing.
5. Disconnect the bottom cover of the indoor unit, the drain pipe and the power wire of the split system. . Gently wring out the three latches, and then disconnect the drain bath together with the outlet hose from the indoor unit of the split system.
6. Disconnect the wiring terminal blocks, remove the electronic control unit and transformer . To remove the control unit from the split system, you should carefully wring out the side fasteners, and then pull the device towards you. Do not forget to unscrew the ground wires before doing this.
7. Remove the fan motor. We unscrew the bolts securing the electric motor to the chassis, lift the evaporator and remove the engine together with the rotary fan.
8. Separate the motor from the fan . First, you will have to gently heat the bolt head with a soldering iron to unlock the thermal lock on the motor pulley. After the fan blades are removed from the pulley, they can be thoroughly washed in the tub.

The assembly of the indoor unit of the split system should be done in the reverse order.

Panasonic Air Conditioner Cleaning

There is a Panasonic split system. Good. Expensive and pretty good quality. After about three years of operation, it turned out that the indoor unit required cleaning, because during operation the system began to emit bad smell. Previously, when such a smell occurred, I took out the filters and washed them, after which the smell disappeared. This time it didn't help. It turned out that despite the presence of cool filters, electric ions and all that, a significant layer of dust had accumulated on the turbine. When I tried to wipe off this dust with a cotton swab, I failed completely. And the stick turned out to be a bit short, and the distance between the turbine lamellas is very small, and there are a lot of lamellas themselves. In addition, the dust simply did not clean off. There was a feeling that the turbine would have to be soaked in a soap solution so that this horror would come off it.

Having gone on the Internet, I saw with satisfaction that this problem is completely standard and concerns absolutely everyone. However, everyone approaches washing the turbine in different ways. Some even lay cellophane under the wall and wash the turbine from garden hose high pressure water. This method surprised and even somewhat discouraged. Still I chose another and more reliable way- dismantle the indoor unit and remove the turbine. If you can’t do this, then call the masters who will do this operation for a lot of money, and, perhaps, with some specific mockery associated with the fact that they have a crazy line there, I’m not the only one so smart that they broke like that, they left everything and went to hell with me ... They have Gazprom and Lukoil as clients, and I'm here with my stupid block in the singular ....

In short, I suffered for a very long time, took everything apart, took out the turbine, washed it, put it back in and calmed down. Since then, another three years have passed and I had to repeat this operation. And I regretted that I did not film the whole process and did not write down how and what to do there, because I managed to forget everything.

But just yesterday I did this operation again, and this time I wasn’t such a sucker, but I filmed everything and even dictated comments to myself on the recorder in hot pursuit. But now I thought about writing an article, because, perhaps, it might come in handy for someone else, this info will be safer on the Internet, and it will be more pleasant for me to read later, in the next three years (God forbid we will be alive by that time).

We disassemble the split system

Friends! The split system is designed in such a way as to occasionally remove the turbine, service it, and then insert it into place. So the system turned out to be repairable, but you just need to know exactly where the screws and latches are, where to press so as not to break anything.

Attention!

Imagine, I am standing on a stepladder right in front of the split system and looking at it. On the right I have motors, all electronics and LEDs. I wrote this paragraph in order to make it clear where in this case is right and where is left.

So, the first step is to remove the case. It is held on from below by screws, from above by latches such as hooks. But finding two screws that hold the case turned out to be not easy. I searched for a long time, but found. They were under cover. First, we raise the lid-wing on the motor with our hands (I, unfortunately, do not know the special terminology). We unscrew the two screws and carefully pry the case from the bottom up. It is removed very easily, but perhaps with a click, because at the top it is hooked on three latches - hooks.

We remove the body. This is the right screw.

We remove the body. This is the left screw.

The second thing we need to do is remove the unit, which includes an external air valve (wing-lid) with a motor and a foam tray for collecting and draining condensate. It does not rest on screws, but on two specific horns that are in their grooves somewhere quite deep inside the device. We put our hands deeper on both sides of this very bath and press vertically down. The bath, together with the body on which it rests, is released. You can separate the node first on the left, then on the right

Air conditioner cleaning. Disconnect the condensate collection unit

We shift the air outlet unit with an air damper and the condensate tray vertically down. The specific horns on which the knot was held are visible.

Attention!

There are three serious nuances. First, a condensate drain hose is attached to the bath. It can be attached either on the left or on the right. This hose, if it's on the left, might get in the way. Apparently it will have to be removed. I have it on the right and does not interfere. Secondly, this bath hangs on the wires and is not completely removed. The wires are extremely thin. It is better to tie up the whole knot somehow so that these wires do not break. And, thirdly, some water, that is, condensate, can pour out of this entire device. So you also need a fairly large rag to wipe off anything that might spill out.

Next, we look at the left side and see that the head of the screw is exposed. This is the last screw that we have to unscrew. In addition, we see the bearing assembly that holds the turbine. This bearing is rubber and inserted into the grooves, as it were. You don't need to touch it! We unscrew the screw.

Here is the third screw that we need to unscrew. It fixes the heat exchanger

At this point, the turbine is already quite accessible and you can touch it with your hand. Pay attention to the right side of the turbine. This is the part where the main motor is located, which drives this same turbine. We turn the turbine by hand and find on the very right edge the place where the lamella is missed. Looking from below into the resulting space, we see that access to the screw opens, which fixes the turbine on the motor shaft. Carefully insert a screwdriver into the turbine and unscrew the screw. But not completely. It will be hard to put it back in later.

Air conditioner cleaning. We loosen the screw securing the turbine to the engine shaft

Now comes the final crucial moment. It is necessary to lift the left side of the heat exchanger assembly. Care must be taken not to cut yourself on sharp edges. The heat exchanger is held on some unknown and invisible latches. You need to use some force to lift it. It is necessary to lift the left side up.

Air conditioner cleaning. Heat exchanger compartment

After the heat exchanger has snapped off, it is necessary to lift it very carefully by the left edge and we will see that the place where the turbine rubber bearing is located is divided into two parts. A vertical crack is formed, sufficient to pull the turbine down, starting from the left edge. It might even fall out on you. But most likely it will get stuck somewhere halfway.

Air conditioner cleaning. We take out the turbine

We remove the rubber bearing from the shaft, take out the turbine itself and carry it to the sink. After washing it, we carefully collect everything. We do it in reverse order. You have to be careful not to damage anything. We do not apply much force and we are not in a hurry. Do not forget to fix the turbine on the right side of the motor shaft. From experience, an external unit is assembled much faster than it is disassembled.

As a result, we had to unscrew only 3 screws and loosen one screw. Everything else is on latches.

That's all. Thank you for your attention.
Dmitry Belkin.

Article created 02.06.2015

No... well, obviously, except for the turbine, I wiped off the dust and dirt wherever it was and where it was possible to reach it. I don't have a steam generator, unfortunately. I had to vacuum and finish the job. Theoretically, I think, it is possible to spray the heat exchanger with a soapy solution, and then wash off this solution by spraying too. Water will enter the bath and go to the drain. In addition, the heat exchanger is constantly wet from condensate and the condensate drains and does not a large number dust settle on the heat exchanger.

By the way, the heat exchanger especially does not have the opportunity to get dirty, because it does not have a special ventilation mode! Generally! There is a certain synthetic ventilation mode, but, as I understand it, it is needed only for one purpose, namely, when people have gathered under the air conditioner and smoke. Then you can turn on the so-called patrol, which will effectively clean the air from smoke without air conditioning. But in this mode, I can't control the air flow. It is always intense. Split system and air purifier are not interchangeable. And this, as I understand it, is correct! If the air conditioner can be used instead of the purifier, then no one will buy purifiers. But here, too, there is a way out. Since the air conditioner is inverter, you can set the cooling temperature to 24 degrees and it will blow in the desired mode, but it will practically not cool. And if it does, then due to the inverter, the air, when cooled, will come out of it not cold, but cool. In short, you can endure.

Hello Gennady!

Opening the air conditioner is really not easy! Here you need to know exactly how it is done. I am not familiar with your system and cannot help you. I can only encourage! Look for plugs in the body color. There may be screws underneath. With latches, everything is always more complicated.

how to open the air conditioner to get to the fan, the bottom 2 screws found what needs to be done to open

Vadim  Unscrew two or three screws under the horizontal blinds.

Then gently move the bottom of the body. Try to let the blinds pass through the slot. There are three hooks on the top, they will unhook themselves. After removing the housing, carefully remove the thermal resistor from the slot.
Then, on the left side, unscrew one screw holding the drain pan, carefully slide it off the hooks and let it hang on the drain hose.
Access to the fan will be free.
Be careful when assembling. Don't break the hooks.

Nikita with all the dope with a swing on the floor

Victoria  Download the instructions for it - there is a disassembly in pictures. At least on my HITACHI so.

Yuri  He is taken out of the case. very tight.

Tags: How to remove the cover of the indoor unit of the Samsung air conditioner

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Service of the internal block of the conditioner...

Hello to all! At the request of my friends and accomplices in general, I want to write a post about the maintenance of air conditioners, because this is already relevant at the moment (I hope the moderators will be understanding)! The fact is that consumers are often misled by offering them air conditioning service ANNUALLY!!! This is not necessary, because everything depends on the degree of contamination of the room where the air conditioner is located!
How to understand that cleaning is already inevitable? Let's look at the process of cleaning the indoor unit, perhaps you yourself are able to perform this operation:
So we have a regular internal block:

Below, in order not to mess up the repair, we glue the film onto ordinary masking tape:

Open the lid, remove the mesh filters and rinse them under running water (this can be done at any frequency, but at least once every 2 months!)

Now we remove the entire upper part of the case, along with the cover ...

We unfasten the bath (through it the condensate enters the street) ...

and then enjoy the terrible spectacle! Here we can already understand what we breathe including a clogged air conditioner ...

So we got to the main point that I wanted to tell you about! WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY OF THE AIR CONDITIONER, you can see the degree of its contamination and independently draw a conclusion ... but is it necessary to clean it?
Pay attention ... The fan impeller, which we need to clean!!!

We remove the impeller (if possible), wash it with a jet of water and a brush, and clean the radiator with a steam generator ... Voilà:

Then proceed to the assembly of the indoor unit, in reverse order! But those same mesh filters ...

We fasten the lid, put the nets ...

Close the lid of the indoor unit...

We turn on 22-25 degrees on the remote control (do not turn on the minimum ... never in the heat, not a single condo will give you 16-17 degrees !!! You will stupidly kill it!) and enjoy the coolness!

... I will talk about the outdoor unit later! I inform you that I have been engaged in air conditioning and ventilation since 2000 and I am ready to help with advice, and indeed in this area!!! So ask! I will answer later, in the evening I will answer everyone, because now there is a lot of work .. I am running away) Have a good day everyone!

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