Insulation of walls in a block house from the inside. Insulation from the inside of the walls - the choice of material, preparation, specifics

20.06.2020

Insulation of houses is becoming more important with the increase in utility prices. You can save a lot by doing everything yourself and having previously studied how they insulate private houses with their own hands. Taking into account that, for example, Moscow is characterized by rather cold and long winters, a reduction in heating costs can significantly affect the family budget.

What to insulate first?

Very well, the problems in insulation are seen by the inhabitants of high-rise buildings located next to the private sector. So, at the beginning of winter, roofs where snow quickly melts clearly indicate high heat losses in the attic. The same can be detected with the help of a thermal imager.

Given that warm air rises and cold air rises from below, special attention should be paid to the ceiling and floor. Especially if the house is without a basement and stands on the ground. With external insulation of the house, in no case should one forget about the basement, so as not to create cold bridges between warm and cold surfaces.

Also, a lot of heat escapes through the windows. And if all the cracks around the openings are securely foamed, you should carefully look at the batteries. Their length must be equal to the width of the window, and the window sill cannot overlap the radiator. After all, it is precisely due to convection that thermal curtain, which does not let the cold from the street.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

The thickness of the insulation should be selected based on the material of the walls, the thickness of these walls and the minimum temperature in the coldest period. According to SNiP, just 5 cm of polystyrene or 13 cm of vermiculite is enough to insulate a house.

But this is with additional insulation of window openings and a decrease in the ventilation of walls.

If you need to ensure minimal heat loss, it is better to use a calculator and calculate the individual thickness of the insulation. For example, for a wall folded into one brick, 10 cm of mineral wool will be required.

This will make it possible to obtain only 37.20 kW of ash loss per heating season, instead of 166 kW without insulation.

The same 10 cm of mineral wool will be enough to insulate a house made of timber with a wall thickness of 150 mm, while heat losses will be even lower - only 34 kW. But 35-cm gas-block walls can be insulated with only 5 cm of mineral wool to provide 44 kW of ash loss.

Details on how to insulate private houses with their own hands

insulate a private house you need to wisely, because it will turn out to be more expensive to redo. You need to remember the basic rule - only external walls are insulated. The insulation laid from the inside will not only reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe rooms, but also shift the dew point into the house.

Condensed moisture, which will have nowhere to evaporate, will cause mold to form, harming not only the building, but also the health of those living in it.

The second rule for building a wall pie is to increase the vapor permeability of materials from the inside to the outside. In other words, the frame must be protected from moisture from the inside as much as possible, and the steam that enters the material of the walls and ceiling must evaporate freely.

If vapor permeability is broken and water microparticles linger at one of the stages, this again leads to the development of fungi. Particular attention should be paid to the vapor barrier of the ceiling - warm and humid air rises and, falling on the more hygroscopic inner layer of insulation, can no longer quickly evaporate through the ceiling.

Materials best suited for self-insulation

Of course, for self-insulation at home, materials that do not require additional equipment are most suitable. Therefore, polyurethane foam and ecowool applied by spraying can not even be considered - the cost of equipment will not pay off when used for one home.

So, the easiest to use:

slabs and rolls of mineral wool - they are simply laid on a horizontal surface, they must be pressed tightly against a vertical surface, for example, with self-tapping screws with "umbrellas";
polystyrene - is glued to even surfaces using a special composition and additionally fixed with "umbrellas".
vermiculite, expanded clay, sawdust - simply pour the desired layer into the pre-made formwork.

But even to work with these materials, you will need a drill or a puncher to make holes in the walls, a screwdriver to screw the frame, a saw or a grinder to cut the bars. So do not think that warming on your own is a very simple matter, even if your hand is a little stuffed at a home construction site.

Advantages, disadvantages and installation technology of mineral heaters

Mineral wool is universal - it can be used for insulation of both wooden and brick buildings. Due to its high vapor permeability, it will provide an optimal microclimate in the house without creating a greenhouse effect. But it is precisely for the opportunity to “breathe” that timber houses are so valued.

Basalt slabs are preferable in this regard. The insulation technology is extremely simple:

A frame of 5x5 cm bars is stuffed. It is fastened to wooden walls with self-tapping screws, and to concrete and brick walls with dowels. The bars are leveled and leveled with wooden linings.

The step of the bars in the frame is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation mat (so that it lies tightly, but does not sag). If a large layer of insulation is required, transverse bars are stuffed on top of the first layer of the laid mineral wool and the second layer is laid. The roof is insulated in the same way.

Brick houses can be insulated without building a frame. Basalt slabs are fastened with special glue and fixed with "umbrellas".

For wooden houses, a ventilated facade is used with a mandatory gap between the insulation and siding. In this case, the mineral wool is closed with a windproof membrane, and the puncture sites and all joints are glued with butyl rubber tape. Siding guides are stuffed over the windshield, they will also provide the necessary ventilation gap.

At wet facade basalt wool is reinforced with a reinforcing mesh and plastered. It is worth remembering that mineral wool is a flexible material, so even a light blow to the facade can ruin the finish.

Disadvantages mineral heaters is also there. In addition to the mentioned love by mice, it is hygroscopic, so it requires good waterproofing. With improper ventilation, mineral wool begins to mold, and over time it weathers and cakes.

It is necessary to remember the safety precautions when working with glass wool - the fibers that get on the skin cause severe itching. Basalt wool crumbles a lot. If it enters the lungs, the dust is not removed, so the face must be protected with a respirator and goggles.

Pros, cons and foam insulation technique

The main disadvantage of polystyrene is its low vapor permeability, so it is not suitable for insulating wooden buildings. In order not to create the effect of a plastic bottle, when there is always high humidity in the house, it is advisable to pay special attention to ventilation.

The advantages of polystyrene foam are obvious:

easy to install - it is lightweight, does not require a frame or formwork;
easy to cut - does not form dust and is completely safe;
does not rot and does not cake;
inexpensive and durable.

PPS plates are laid on a flat prepared surface. You do not need to do a screed, but you will have to remove all protruding elements. The foam is attached to a special glue, and to improve adhesion, the walls are pre-treated with a primer.

Expanded polystyrene is fixed with "umbrellas" with a slight indentation, and the hats are rubbed cement mortar to ensure tightness. The seams are sealed with mounting foam, the excess is cut off and also sealed.

The video shows in detail the entire technology of foam insulation:

Bulk insulation and their features

Natural bulk materials are environmentally friendly and, in some cases, low price. So, living in the forest region, there will be no problems with sawdust, but the delivery of expanded clay can be expensive. Vermiculite, on the other hand, is much better than expanded clay in its qualities, since it is the only insulator capable of absorbing heat. So it is best used as a heater inside the wall frame.

For an industrial scale, this is unprofitable, but private construction allows the use of bulk insulation even so.

If you need to insulate the attic floor, the easiest way is to pour 15 cm of sawdust. They do not even need to be covered with waterproofing films.

They also have disadvantages:

Due to its properties to absorb and evaporate moisture, the material itself does an excellent job of removing excess steam, lowering the humidity in the house. In addition, all bulk insulation is not suitable for mouse nests, which also speaks in their favor.
They also have disadvantages:
expanded clay is hygroscopic and heavy, so it is not suitable for large-scale insulation of buildings on light foundations;
Vermiculite is also quite heavy, but does not absorb moisture.

Any bulk heaters show themselves best on horizontal surfaces, but for pitched roofs absolutely not suitable.

To build your own warm house, it is enough to have the minimum necessary building skills. And everything will definitely work out!

Frosts are rapidly approaching, and the temperature in many apartments is far from the most comfortable. We are forced to put on warm clothes, buy heaters, sleep under several blankets, which causes discomfort. What to do if it's cold in the apartment? It is quite possible to solve this problem on your own.

What to do if the apartment is cold

Cold batteries in the apartment: what to do?

High-quality radiators are the key to warmth and comfort in the house. If the radiators are many years old and the apartment is cold in winter, it may be worth replacing them. But before you run for an expensive purchase, do a survey: sometimes the batteries do not heat up due to air jams or due to the negligence of utilities. Where to complain if it's cold in the apartment, we told.

Many modern models radiators are manufactured with , so you can set the right temperature. High-quality heaters can serve faithfully for decades, therefore, having spent only one time, you will forget about cold batteries in the house for a long time.

There are several types of radiators:

Cast iron - the most classic option, which has been used for heat supply for over a hundred years. Cast iron batteries are durable, corrosion resistant and have high heat dissipation. They are not afraid of hard, low-quality water and pressure drops. The disadvantages of cast iron radiators include bulkiness and unaesthetic appearance. Nevertheless, the modern design of these batteries with monograms and original coloring will fit well into the interior of a classic style.
Aluminum - durable, lightweight and elegant heaters. Ease of installation, optimal price and high heat dissipation make aluminum batteries perfect choice for many. However, this type of radiator is prone to corrosion at a high alkali content in the water.
Steel radiators are often used for heating private houses and offices. They have excellent heat dissipation and corrosion resistance. Their disadvantage lies in the sensitivity to water hammer - sudden pressure drops in the pipe.
Bimetallic radiator, speaking plain language, consists of a steel core and an outer aluminum layer. This design is optimal for city apartments: the steel pipeline is not subject to corrosion, and aluminum, which has good thermal conductivity, perfectly supplies heat to the room. However, all these advantages are overshadowed by the high cost of the product.
Copper batteries provide efficient space heating due to their thermal conductivity - it is much higher than that of aluminum and even more so than that of steel and cast iron. But the price of copper radiators, as well as bimetallic ones, will not please everyone.

The choice of radiator depends not only on your tastes and financial condition, but also on compatibility with your heating system. Therefore, before buying, you should determine whether the characteristics of the heater (pressure, allowable temperature, heat transfer, etc.) correspond to the indicators of the heating system.

The question of whether it is worth insulating the walls of the house from the inside still does not have a definite answer. Some experts are ardent opponents of this option. Others, on the contrary, believe that such a decision will create the most comfortable conditions for people's lives. It should be noted that both are correct. It all depends on the specific situation, according to which this or that decision must be made. But even before the start of work on the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside, it is important to study the features of the process and select a safe material.

Main advantages

Warming the walls of the house from the inside is especially important in apartment buildings. It is sometimes the only option for creating comfortable conditions in those rooms that are adjacent to unheated, cold technical rooms or stairwells. It is possible to insulate the walls from the inside in a private house. Such a solution will preserve the original appearance of the facade or increase the amount of heat that will be stored in the building.

Such works belong to non-traditional technologies. Most often, their implementation is recommended in cases where it is simply impossible to arrange external insulation. These are, for example, the same high-rise buildings. After all, sometimes very often it is required to maintain heat in the premises of a panel house. Insulation of the walls in the apartment from the inside will be the only option when the work can be carried out independently, in the shortest possible time and without obtaining the appropriate permits that are necessary for the arrangement of the facade. As a result, the comfort of housing will increase, and the owners will forget about such troubles as fungus and mold.

Possible problems

Despite certain advantages, the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside has a number of disadvantages. It was they who became the reason for the appearance of opponents of this decision. So, the presence of insulation on the internal walls of the building contributes to the emergence of such problems as:

-Insecurity of the walls from the cold. After all, the supporting structure of the house does not get rid of contact with the outside air. This leads to its rapid destruction. Cracks begin to appear on the surface of the walls, because their insulation from the inside takes a certain part of the heat. And if before the events, the external structures of the building were heated from the inside, then upon completion of the work, this process stops.

-Dropout of condensate. As you know, on a cold surface in contact with warm air, moisture droplets form. This phenomenon is called the "dew point". The main goal facing the thermal insulation of the house is to move such a point outside the outer structure. Wall insulation from the inside in a private house or in a high-rise apartment leads to the formation of condensate at the border between the insulation and its surface. In this regard, the process is hidden from the owners, and they simply do not notice it. The walls at high humidity become an excellent breeding ground for mold and fungi.

-Reducing the size of the rooms. Today, the construction industry produces different kinds most modern materials with sufficiently high efficiency. However, she has not yet come up with one that, while maintaining high specifications would be quite small in size. Warming the house from the inside will take from the premises from 5 to 10 cm of their space, which will significantly reduce the usable area. At first glance, this is not very noticeable. But if you count the entire building, the figure will be quite impressive.

Based on the foregoing, before starting work on insulating the walls of the house from the inside, it is advisable to carefully consider negative sides such a decision. Get rid of possible problems already needed for initial stage, because otherwise the negative result will be noticeable in the first years of such operation.

materials

What makes it possible to use a technology that provides for the insulation of the surface of the walls from the inside of the building? It can be a variety of materials with their own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. As a rule, the most popular options for insulation for such work are mineral wool and foam plastic, foam plastic, as well as boards made from wood fiber. Consider their advantages and disadvantages in more detail.

Styrofoam

Very often, the owners, who decide to insulate the house from the inside, opt for this material. After all, it is quite effective and, importantly, has a low cost. As a rule, 5 cm of such a protective layer is quite enough to provide a comfortable microclimate in the premises.

Styrofoam is most often insulated with walls in apartments of multi-storey buildings. The use of this material allows you to install quickly, without additional tools and complex processing.

Among the disadvantages of polystyrene are the following:

low strength;

combustibility;

Poor vapor permeability.

The latest forecast contributes to the transformation of the house into a real greenhouse. In order to avoid this problem, it will be necessary to equip forced ventilation, which will require additional labor and financial costs.

Penoplex

The closest relative of polystyrene is extruded polystyrene foam, also known as polystyrene foam. Outwardly, these two materials are very similar to each other. However, foam boards are orange, not white. In addition, it is more durable, which determines its durability.

However, the disadvantages of polystyrene in the form of flammability and poor vapor permeability of this material are still preserved. Warming internal surfaces walls when using it will not allow the house to "breathe", which will require forced ventilation.

Can polystyrene foam be used to create comfortable indoor conditions? Yes, but you will need to prepare in advance for possible problems and fix them in time.

This option is more acceptable for a house, as well as one built from lightweight concrete. As for wood, it is usually chosen for the construction of buildings for its ability to "breathe". But the foam and foam block the air flow. This negates all the advantages of wood.

Mineral wool

These heaters are also widely used for interior cladding. Attractive in this material is its inexpensive price. Experts recommend using mineral wool in hard slabs to insulate the wall of the house from the inside with mineral wool. Such material is easy to install, non-flammable and has high strength.

Roll is produced under such brands as Rockwool, Knauf, and Isover. She has good:

1. Thermal conductivity. This allows you to use a thin layer of insulation.
2. Soundproof. The use of glass wool provides excellent protection against street noise. The air layer between its fibers contributes to similar properties of the material.
3. Vapor permeability.
4. Tear strength.
5. Resistance to biological attack, for example, to rodents.

In favor of this insulation is also its high service life. It has been successfully fulfilling its functions for fifty years. In addition, mineral wool has a low density and low weight.

However, it should be borne in mind that this material perfectly absorbs water, ceasing to function after that according to its intended purpose. In order to prevent this from happening, provide vapor barrier and waterproofing in the form of a film or membrane. The first protects the insulation from the side of warm air, and the second - from the cold.

fiberboard

Warming from the inside can be carried out using They have:

Good sound absorption and thermal insulation;

Unattractive to rodents and insects;

Good resistance to moisture and temperature extremes;

Ease of processing using any tools;

Easy installation;

Ease of wiring.

However, it should be borne in mind that fiberboard boards are subject to treatment with toxic substances. This carries a danger to humans. That is why this material is most often used for outdoor decoration.

Warming of frame houses

For those who decide to improve the comfort of their home, you will need to check its condition. If any defects are found, they will need to be eliminated before work begins. Wall insulation frame house from the inside will require their cleaning and removal of foreign objects. An important point it will also get rid of the gaps present in the structural elements. To do this, you need to apply mounting foam. If the wood of the walls is damp, then it is dried with a building hair dryer.

Performing the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside with your own hands, you will need to go through two stages. The first of these is the installation of waterproofing. The second stage involves laying a layer of thermal insulation.

Waterproofing is pre-cut into strips corresponding to the size of the walls and attached to them. Next, a heater is laid, placing it between the racks of a pre-arranged crate. Selected to create comfortable temperature in the room, the material is pre-cut into strips corresponding to the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. At the same time, their size may exceed the required one by 5 cm. Such a nuance allows you to lay the insulation more densely. This will increase the efficiency of its application.

Warming of wooden houses

Work in such buildings begins with the installation of the crate, which is equipped on the load-bearing walls. In this case, it is recommended to use a beam. Wall insulation wooden house from the inside using metal profile it makes sense in cases where in the future they will be sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard.

To create even and regular corners, corner posts are prepared from a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm. Their height should be equal to the height of the room. Along the edge of such a beam, a second one is reinforced with self-tapping screws, with a smaller section (50 x 50 mm). Such a solution will allow you to fix the selected material inside the created structure.

Warming the walls of a wooden house from the inside will require their preliminary treatment with a special liquid. This will protect the surface from rotting and burning.

The next step in insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands is the installation of bars, which are fastened in increments of 50 cm. After completing the arrangement of the crate, you can begin the process of fixing the material, which is most often mineral wool. The insulation is pre-cut along the height of the walls with a width exceeding the distance between the vertical parts of the structure by 2 cm.

Mineral wool is fastened inside the crate with anchor bolts. It can be laid in 2 layers, between which a film should be placed.

After fixing the heat insulator, bars measuring 30x40 mm are mounted. Next, sheathing is performed using the decorative material chosen by the owners, which can be, for example, lining. By the way, it will allow you to additionally insulate the house. In this case, the interior will look very attractive.

Warming of panel houses

In order to create a comfortable temperature in such a building, as a rule, mineral wool is used. In addition, wall insulation in a panel house from the inside can be done with foam and fibrolite, foamed polyurethane and cork.

How is such work carried out? Insulation of walls in a panel house from the inside will require their cleaning from old coatings. A vacuum cleaner can be used to remove dirt. The surface should be treated with a primer and an antiseptic. After applying the next layer, the wall must be allowed to dry thoroughly. At the next stage, the surface is leveled with plaster, covering all joints with mastic, sealant or moisture-resistant mortar. Only after that proceed to the arrangement of the heat insulator. Completing installation work facing material on which the final finish is applied.

Insulation of brick houses

Buildings made of this material are distinguished by durability and strength. However, brick retains heat much worse than, for example, wood. In order to maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises, it will be necessary to protect the walls from the cold.

Very often, the owners insulate the walls with isover from the inside in a brick house. is on the list of one of the most popular materials for such work. However, it should be borne in mind that you cannot leave it open. After all, over time, mineral wool will begin to emit dust that adversely affects the health of residents. If a brick house using this material is insulated correctly, then there will be no problems in the future. In this case, it will only be necessary to carry out waterproofing of the insulating layers, since they easily absorb moisture, get wet, as a result of which they lose their properties.

To install an insulating layer of mineral wool with your own hands, you will need to prepare the following materials and tools:

Wooden slats;

mineral wool;

Film for waterproofing;

Film for vapor barrier;

plaster;

Primer;

Putty knife;

Plywood or drywall.

The installation of mineral wool is carried out after a thorough preparation of the walls, which are plastered and primed. It is not necessary to level such a surface, because in the future a crate will be mounted on it.

After the walls have dried, a layer of waterproofing is attached to them. Next, they begin to form the crate, which is made of wooden slats, fastening them together with screws. The next step is to install a heater. A vapor barrier film is placed on top of it and the laths of the crate. Cover such a structure with sheets of drywall or plywood. The joints of the facing material are sealed with putty.

Insulate the apartment high-rise building or a private house from the inside is easier than doing this work from the outside. Thermal insulation from the inside has its undeniable advantages:

Work can be carried out at any temperature and weather.
The architectural appearance of the building is not disturbed.
In an apartment building, the construction of scaffolding or the involvement of high-altitude installers is not required.
The insulation system itself is simplified, since the insulation is not required to be protected from the wind.
Work can be carried out independently.

Wall insulation from the inside - disadvantages

As for the shortcomings, overcoming them is technically more difficult or impossible:

Loss of part of the living space, as the most effective insulation eat 5 cm along an insulated wall, and in a corner room - along two walls.
Insulation from the inside will shift the dew point, on which condensate settles, to the border of the wall and the heat insulator, which will lead to the gradual wetting of the insulation and the loss of its heat-insulating qualities. To avoid this, it is required forced ventilation premises.
The furniture will have to be removed during the renovation.

Material selection

When choosing how to insulate a house, homeowners often stop at materials:

Styrofoam.
Extruded polystyrene foam.
Mineral slabs.
Polyurethane foam.

The most effective polyurethane foam has the highest cost, but a 5 cm thick slab will be enough to create a comfortable temperature in the house.

Mineral wool boards attract those who are most concerned about safety, this material is non-combustible, unlike polystyrene foam, an 8 cm thick plate is required to insulate a house in central Russia.

Expanded polystyrenes - both ordinary and extruded, are second in efficiency after polyurethane foam, but their main drawback is the release harmful substances when burning. Thanks to the addition of a flame retardant, the material has the property of self-extinguishing, but at high temperatures it melts and smokes.

If drywall sheets are used as a fire barrier, this will solve the problem, but increase the loss of area. In addition, extruded polystyrene foam is not much cheaper than polyurethane foam.

Not so long ago, a liquid insulation appeared on the building materials market - a paint created to protect the hulls of spacecraft and aviation. Manufacturers guarantee that a layer of paint of 2-3 mm will solve the problem of wall freezing, however, heating engineers consider it possible to use this paint as an addition to the main insulation, to reduce the thickness.

Knowing all the features of the materials, it is easy to choose how to insulate the walls in the house.

Insulation systems

You can insulate the walls of the house from the inside in a “wet” way, which got its name from “wet” plastering, or you can “dry”, lining the insulation with plasterboard, chipboard or other material.

The plaster method of thermal insulation consists of successively arranged layers:

Outer wall.
layer of insulation glued on special compound and fixed with dowels.
Adhesive layer with embedded reinforcing mesh.
Finishing layer as desired.

The dry method of insulation requires the preliminary installation of a supporting frame made of a metal profile or a wooden antiseptic beam:

Outer wall.
Bearing frame.
A layer of insulation, when using a mini-plate, it must be additionally protected on both sides - from the inside with vapor barrier, from the side of the outer wall - with waterproofing material.
Control grate for creating an air gap that ensures the weathering of water vapor.
Finishing cladding with the selected material, followed by finishing.

Having chosen the insulation system, you can proceed to the preparatory work and the purchase of materials.

We carry out "wet" insulation

To complete the work you will need materials:

To prepare the wall - a repair compound and an adhesive primer for brick and concrete, an antiseptic, a fire retardant and a fungicide, or a complex protective composition for a wooden house.
Insulation, such as polystyrene foam.
adhesive compound.
Dowel screws with a thermally insulated head (5-6 pieces per 1 m2).
Plastic mesh with a cell of no more than 5x5 mm.
Finishing material.

Tools:

Scaffold.
Large capacity for glue.
Drill with different nozzles.
Spatula, rule.
Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
Plumb and building level.

Consider how to insulate walls:

Substrate preparation - remove paint from brick and concrete surfaces, smooth out irregularities of more than 3 cm, prime the walls; grind wood walls, check the tightness of the joints, if necessary, caulk, primer.
Dilute the adhesive composition according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
Apply the mixture on the heat insulator plate with marks every 30–45 cm in the center and in a continuous line at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the plate. Glue that has fallen on the end of the plate forms a cold bridge, so it is important to remove it immediately.
We mount the plates, starting from the bottom, with a minimum offset of 20 cm of vertical joints. Do not forget about the insulation of slopes. The gaps between the plates up to 3 cm are filled with mounting foam, the large ones are filled with scraps of insulating material.
After 2-3 days, we fix the heat insulator with dowels along the edges and center of the plate, slightly sunk the cap.
We apply an adhesive composition on the surface of the insulation with a layer of 3-4 mm, roll out the reinforcing mesh and melt it with a spatula into the glue.

After gaining strength with glue, we perform finishing.

Dry process technology

Surface preparation is carried out in the same way, the set of tools is the same.

Materials for work:

Wooden antiseptic beam with a section of 40x40 mm for the frame and battens.
It is desirable to lay the insulation in 2 layers, for example, two 40 mm mineral wool slabs.
Vapor barrier film.
Waterproofing membrane.
Vapor barrier double sided tape.
adhesive composition.
Dowel - pan-type screws with metal cores and thermally insulated heads.
Drywall or other boards for finishing.
Finishing material.

How to properly insulate the walls of the house from the inside in a dry way:

We prepare the base in the same way as the wet method.
We mount the crate horizontally with a step of 600 mm (along the width of the plates).
We fix the waterproofing membrane on double-sided tape. We join the canvases with an overlap of 10-15 cm on a double-sided vapor barrier tape.
We prepare the adhesive composition; temporarily fix the insulation with glue in the built frame.
We mount the second level of the crate perpendicular to the first (vertically).
We fix the second layer of plates of insulating material on the glue;
After the glue dries, we fix the insulation with dowels.
We protect the insulation with a vapor barrier film.
We mount drywall on self-tapping screws.
We do the finishing touches.

This installation method will solve the problem of cold bridges.

Conclusion

When deciding how to insulate a house from the inside, the main thing is to study all the pros and cons of this or that method, this or that material. Many large corporations compose their insulation systems, produce the appropriate materials and sell them as a set, in this case bearing responsibility for the quality of the entire insulation system. As for the proposed technologies, they have been tested by many homeowners with excellent results.

Winter can bring pleasant emotions. But only if you can enter the house and enjoy its warmth. To do this without extra heating costs, you need to take care of the thermal protection of your home in advance.

Peculiarities

Wall insulation is significantly different from the work of keeping heat in the floor or ceiling. Much less often resort to the use of bulk materials. It is necessary to take measures to ensure that the bulk substance does not cake under its own weight. The value of the thickness of the structure is critical. It should not take up much space in the room. No less significant is the severity of the insulation block: if it is very massive, it will be necessary to strengthen the foundation, which will lead to its rise in price. All this means that decisive importance belongs to the right choice of insulation blocks and systems.

materials

An increasing number of people are now using mineral wool "Isover". It guarantees an optimal microclimate in the living room, regardless of the heat or cold outside. Its main technological characteristics are as follows:

thermal conductivity is 0.041 W xm xK;
effective damping of outside noise;
the average density is 13 kg per 1 cu. m;
absolute protection from fire;

reliable protection from condensate (subject to leaving a gap for the removal of moisture of at least 20 mm);
the minimum time of stable operation is 50 years;
perfect sanitary and environmental safety.

If the wall cannot carry a significant load, it is quite practical and convenient to insulate it with Izover. This solution guarantees complete protection from the cold, no matter what construction material is used. If the outdoor air temperature reaches extreme positive or negative values, thermal insulation will retain its basic qualities. But you should not take Isover as a universal solution. Like any mineral wool, it can have a detrimental effect on the human body and animals.

Under this brand, material with various characteristics is supplied. It:

lightweight structures;
general construction soft slabs and mats;
mineral insulation under the pitched roof.

Installation of insulation for a cinder block house is strictly required. When it comes to cold housing, there is little joy. A considerable part of craftsmen and amateur builders try to insulate cinder block structures with foam plastic. It transmits little heat and is quite mechanically strong, although it has a low density. What is very useful, there is no need to spend money and time on the installation of a waterproofing membrane.

Polyfoam has good antiseptic properties. Buying it is not difficult for people with any income level. But there is a serious limitation: the risk of fire. Initially, you will have to apply a primer to ensure the most powerful adhesion to the substrate.

A prerequisite for success will be the installation of a fiberglass reinforcing mesh. This mesh is of two types: for internal and external reinforcement. It is undesirable to confuse such types.

Insulation also has its own characteristics. aerated concrete walls . Cellular concrete blocks contain many gas bubbles (hence the name). They must be insulated in any case, regardless of the production in an autoclave or without it. A number of heaters have been invented for aerated concrete, but more than other options, foam plastic and polyurethane foam are popular varieties. The second material is considered more reliable and modern. But its application without the help of a team with special equipment is impossible. Styrofoam and polyurethane foam are less durable, but the owners of the houses themselves can use them.

Aerated concrete can be isolated from frost with simple mineral wool. But this should only be done as a last resort. The ability of cotton wool to concentrate water vapor will adversely affect the properties of the blocks. Such houses will also have to be insulated from the inside. For this purpose, experts recommend using plaster mixes. And precisely inner work in terms of insulation precedes the external one, and not vice versa.

In many cases, builders use stone wool. This stuff really deserves its reputation. It is obtained from basalt, metamorphic rocks, marl. Typically, construction companies purchase the basalt version for the most critical projects. But it is equally important to take into account the level of acidity. The less pronounced the alkalinity of the cotton wool insulation, the harder it is, the longer it will work.

To improve water resistance, phenol-formaldehyde resins and other additives are added to stone wool. Therefore, it is important to find out what the exact chemical composition of the mixture is, so as not to encounter sudden toxic effects. Although she stone wool it will not catch fire even when heated to 1000 degrees, its binders will evaporate already at 200. Therefore, in the event of a fire or other emergency, all the insulation will have to be removed and replaced with a new one.

The advantage of such thermal insulation is also the fact that all excess moisture leaves the rooms or work areas without lingering in the insulation. Concerning negative points, here you need to remember the abundant dusting and the inevitably high price of products. When buying material, you should pay attention to the conditions of its storage. You can not buy cotton wool outside the factory packaging and without a shrink film. It is recommended to check the packaging so that there is no leakage. It is unacceptable to store material on the street without a canopy or awning. When stored in cardboard boxes, technological requirements prohibit placing them where even a slight dampness is present.

Scheme

Insulation of the concrete wall of the house from the inside is practiced in cases where it is impossible to perform external work. Concrete creates many difficulties and problems in winter period, and in apartments it is almost always insulated inside. The services of industrial climbers or lifting equipment are very expensive. In addition, the housing inspection almost never considers the project of selective thermal protection of a single apartment. Doing work without approval means facing a wave of fines or deprivation of housing for arbitrariness.

The easiest way to keep warm in a concrete house is with plaster. But it does not always give a decent effect. In the coldest regions or even the corner of the house, the microclimate will not return to normal. The first steps in any case are the exposure of the structural surface and antiseptic treatment. Then you have to wait for the complete drying of the substrate. Insulating plaster is done in three stages:

spray;
primer layer;
nakryvka (external decorative coating).

The initial thin layer is a solution of 1 share of cement and 4 (5) shares of well-sifted sand. This solution must have a liquid consistency in order to stick to the surface. The layout is made with a hard spatula. Make an effort, trying to introduce the solution deeper into the pores of the base. The total thickness of the first layer can reach 1 cm, it must be done evenly over the entire surface.

The primer layer is created using standard cement plasters the corresponding category. But it is better at this stage to make a choice in favor of a material with reduced thermal conductivity. The primer is laid in a layer of 5 to 6 cm, and it is created in three steps. Each subsequent treatment is carried out only after the drying of the already applied material. Next, you need to make a front cover (not thicker than 0.5 cm).

Coating mortar - finishing putty, diluted with water to a liquid state. The work is carried out by rubbing this solution into the primer. When the treated surface dries, it is further improved by grouting and sanding. If such a solution is not effective enough, you will have to veneer concrete wall foam.

As in the previous case, you can not do without antiseptics.

The dried disinfected wall is covered with a finishing liquid putty with a layer of 0.5-1 cm to level the surface. Then, in any case, waterproofing is laid with a layer of 3 to 5 mm. The foam is glued with a specialized powder composition, which is stirred in water 90-120 minutes before the start of work, turning it into a thick homogeneous lump. You need to smear the entire wall evenly with glue, the sheets themselves are enough only in the center. Gluing is carried out with slight pressure, the joints must be tight.

The seams after gluing the sheets must be covered with putty or mounting foam. The final hardening of the adhesive, depending on its formulation and working conditions, occurs 48-96 hours after application. You can strengthen the attachment to the wall with plastic dowels. The final plastering of the foam is carried out on a polymer mesh. It should be embedded in glue, covered with final plaster (necessarily rubbed and sanded).

Technically, the insulation of concrete with fibrous materials, including mineral wool, is attractive. Under it, you will have to create a frame made of wood impregnated with antiseptic preparations. The rails must be fastened vertically (from the top to the bottom of the wall), the distance between the lines is approximately 0.6 m. Attach the material to the rails with anchors, drilling 3 holes in each wooden part.

To do this, take a drill with a diameter of 0.8 cm. The slats themselves are held with concrete screws. The gaps between the slats are supposed to be laid with roofing material. Above it is the cotton layer. The insulation is laid in 2 or 3 levels, a foil-insulating steam-insulating film is placed above it. It is pressed against the rails on the building brackets. The insulating block is closed on top for decorative purposes:

drywall;
chipboard;
plywood.

In private construction, brick-built houses are very popular. They are even more popular than concrete ones, because they are not much inferior to them in strength, keep heat better and are more aesthetic. But the thermal qualities of the best grade of bricks are not enough to protect against Russian frosts. So that condensation does not drip from the inside of the wall, and icy drafts do not walk around the house, you can apply:

expanded clay;
mineral wool;
penoplex;
Styrofoam;

expanded polystyrene;
insulating plaster;
EPPS;
cork;
ecological cotton.

External insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out on a frame made of wood or metal. The same material is suitable for internal thermal protection. If the house is still planned to be built, you can lay in the project an internal brickwork. Such a step is no worse than special plates or rolls. First of all, they put up an external wall, raise it to 150 cm, and steel bars are sequentially inserted into the seams of the fifth or sixth rows. Immediately after this, tiles or thermal protection sheets are mounted, and they begin to lay an internal brick row.

When thermal insulation is achieved due to expanded clay, up to 150 cm raise the outer inner wall, which are separated by a gap of about 0.15 m. From this point, construction is carried out to the upper planned line. If it is planned to insulate the house from the outside, this work is first carried out with a foundation and a plinth. outer wall thoroughly cleaned, only under this condition, the finish will be an effective measure. Extruded PPS or foam plastic is laid outside, initially leveling the walls with plaster and priming them.

The insulation is placed using glue or steel dowels. Installation is carried out from the bottom up in a checkerboard pattern to increase the stability of the structure. If it is planned to create a ventilated facade, start by attaching a vapor barrier block, on top of which a frame is placed. A cotton wool insulation is placed in this frame, which is additionally covered by a hydrobarrier. All three insulating substances are attached with dowels.

A typical exterior finish in this case is siding.

Internal insulation with foam plastic or EPS on brick is not very practical. These materials are poisonous and burn easily. Before the start of warming, antiseptic primers are applied, they effectively suppress fungal aggression. Waterproofing and protection from precipitation by overhangs for silicate bricks must be more thorough and thoughtful than for ordinary ceramic block. It is recommended to use concrete with the addition of expanded clay for masonry. Its thermal conductivity will immediately drop by 50%.

Putting expanded clay inside the walls will be most effective when choosing a large fraction (this will reduce the load on the foundation).

When it is impossible to insulate brick wall outside or in the middle internal insulation take materials with the lowest permeability to water vapor. Most often it is EPPS or penofol with an outer foil sheath. It is only important not to confuse which side these materials need to be mounted inside the room. If you have to use a material that allows a lot of vapor to pass through, it will need to be covered with a film impervious to water vapor or a thin shell of penofol.

In case of the slightest difficulty, it is more correct to entrust the insulation of a brick wall to professionals. There are also subtleties in the insulation of the walls of a frame dwelling. For waterproofing such buildings, glassine is widely used, heaters are taken only with foil to reduce steam escape. Typical insulation solutions are polyurethane, foam and mineral wool.

Be sure to make a crate from edged board humidity not more than 15%. The recommended section of the crate fragments is 2.5x15 cm.

Insulating blocks are inserted into the gaps between the frame racks. Sprayed heaters are underestimated by homeowners in vain. They give excellent results in frame buildings, while they can be applied without the help of a professional team. Hardened polyurethane needs to be modified (remove excess fragments and sand the surface). Due to the exclusion of joints and seams, heat loss will be minimal.

In old houses, the walls inside often have many cavities or one large cavity. As a result, the owners and tenants suffer from a freezing room, nothing can be done about it. Cavities can also occur due to errors in laying the insulation or due to its natural degradation over time. You can eliminate such troubles if you ensure the introduction of thermal insulation through holes made in the outer wall.

Since such manipulations are responsible and, in case of errors, can even lead to the destruction of the house as a whole, you should definitely contact professionals.

In regions where there is a lot of precipitation, it is unacceptable to use, including for closing voids, cavities, mineral wool and basalt insulation. You can not use expanded clay. Where showed itself better in such harsh conditions according to the operating experience of polyurethane foam. To find out if there is a cavity in the walls of a cold room that can be “blown out” with liquid or sprayed material, a standard plan will help. In the absence of a plan, with its inaccuracies or obvious errors, technological holes are made in the seams and the wall behind them is checked with wire movements. More sparing options are calling professionals with a thermal imager or self-scanning structures with this device.

But the cold gets to the tenants apartment buildings, in the bearing walls of which there are weak seams. For the most part, the seam elements of panel structures are provided with an additional insulating layer from the outside, since it is inefficient to do this from the inside. In any case, before starting work, you should carefully study the technical regulations and building codes. If it is not possible to mount thermal insulation from the outside, its internal version must be covered with an inseparable, long-term vapor barrier.

Most often, specialists take for such purposes:

foamed polyethylene "Vilaterm";
mounting polyurethane foam "Macroflex" (or similar foamed polyurethanes);
sealants that do not precipitate (for example, "Sazilast 24").

In houses operated for a long time, the sequence of work consists of several stages:

opening the old seam;
dismantling of the existing protection;
rust corrections in case of urgent need;
removal of dust and dirt;
filling the space with mounting foam;

attaching to the fresh layer of its heat-insulating tubes;
adding foam to areas where it initially went unevenly;
cutting off hardened foam;
waterproofing.

Cross insulation is suitable for frame buildings. Heat-saving mats are applied so that the seams do not coincide with each other. Then the occurrence of cracks penetrated by the wind is excluded. Frost bridges are guaranteed to overlap ( wooden details). The fight against them will be successful if, outside, over the thermal protection of 15 cm, add another 5 cm of insulation at problem points.

Placing 5x5 cm bars horizontally outside the frame will be the first step. The distance between each pair of bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation block. The block itself is placed strictly by surprise. Immediately after installation of all insulating parts, it is supposed to close them with moisture protection. She will cover the material from the action of the wind and prevent it from falling out.

It is strictly not allowed even for corners to tamper with thermal protection and push the material inward by force. After all, the main properties of mineral wool are given by the air contained in it. Violating the integrity of the insulator, it will not be possible to keep it inside. Therefore, the house will be colder than the tenants expect. The basement floor is insulated almost according to the described scheme.

How to choose?

Now you need to find out: which insulating material is better. There is no universal answer to this question. But some points are useful to keep in mind. Conducting a full thermal calculation without special knowledge it is not possible: ready-made online calculators will practically not help or even mislead. When analyzing the properties of each coating, sequentially analyze:

steam capacity;
heat exchange efficiency;
fire and chemical safety;
load created by the insulating layer.

stone walls optimally combined with mineral wool and its analogues. Even the thermal protection, which is weaker than the leading products on the market, is justified by the excellent cost and ease, as well as ease of installation. The mineral version is soft and has an average thermal conductivity. Cotton wool with the addition of basalt crumbs shows itself more reliably. But for this, manufacturers charge extra money. Such material is especially good in areas closely adjacent to stoves and fireplaces.

Problems with cotton wool are due to its weak ability to hold its shape. Accumulating moisture, the insulation becomes heavier and sags. The way out is to increase the frequency of fasteners compared to the recommended placement of them. Warming wooden or frame buildings with cotton wool is not very practical. They are useful in cases where the walls need very little additional insulation. Styrene and substances based on it preserve their shape better and are resistant to temperature shocks.

Excellent heat capacity allows for intensive thermal protection of thin walls.

Among the foam, it is recommended to choose products under the SPB-S marking, indicating the addition of flame retardants. If they are not, it is better not to use such material at all. Penoplex is recommended for insulation of junctions to the roof. Penoplex should be used to sheathe the walls from the inside. There it will absorb quite a bit of space.

Preparatory work

If wall insulation for one reason or another is planned to be carried out from the inside, preparation consists of:

maximum drying of the surface;
installation of vapor barrier;
waterproofing pad.

Before applying the foam, it is better to mount the formwork. It will keep the surface as even as possible and make the layer especially reliable. The frame is covered (wrapped) with heat-insulating material, otherwise it will turn into an entrance gate for frost. If a brick wall is finished, everything is removed from it (up to the very foundation). The approach to concrete is similar. Dirt is removed with a vacuum cleaner, visible fungal infections are easy to eliminate by treating the surface with brushes and sandpaper.

How to insulate with your own hands?

Step-by-step instructions for installing polystyrene foam insulation are simple. Such material is recommended for laying on wood, brick, fastening is carried out in the same way. The dry method is used for limited periods. The wet technique requires the introduction of the material into the wall grooves and its natural drying for 48-72 hours. Under sharply unfavorable weather conditions, these periods increase markedly.

Under polystyrene foam are only ideal smooth walls. This material is fragile. If you start to fit it to a surface with a significant relief, the plates may crack. It is desirable to eliminate all differences greater than 3 mm. Paint with low vapor permeability will have to be removed. For fastening, you need to use a special glue. A primer will definitely be required.

If it is decided to use mineral wool, it is worth stopping at the modification "Line Rock". It guarantees environmental cleanliness and excellent noise isolation. When choosing various materials it is worth clarifying:

their total length and width;
the possibility of cutting;
desired connection methods.

It is necessary to wait after applying the primer for about 4 hours, even if the manufacturer promises faster drying. When turning to hired installers for help, you should carefully control how many dowels and glue they actually use.