How to breed your own tomato variety and get documents for it. How new varieties are bred

  • 12.06.2019

If you are bored existing varieties apples and want to develop your ideal variety, then here is a small guide for a novice breeder.

Going into a store or market in different parts of the world, you can see a large number of different varieties of apples: from the usual "Golden" and "Gala" to the exotic "Jazz" and "Crunchy Dragon". In total, there are more than 7,500 varieties of apples in the world, which have different taste, color and size. Sometimes you can find purple apples, with a berry flavor or creamy flesh.

The reason for this diversity is the attempts of mankind to develop a new fruit. Fruit variety improvement is one way to meet the expectations of farmers and consumers. For farmers, the most important thing is that apples are resistant to diseases and can be stored for a long time. Consumers love the taste appearance and novelty. Therefore, breeders must consider everything from the behavior of an apple in different climates to the formation of the desired size and taste. Create new variety you can do it yourself, the main thing is to have patience and a desire to continue the selection.

In order to create an apple variety with the desired characteristics, the breeder must first select other apples with similar characteristics. For example, you want to breed a large drought tolerant fruit. To do this, you can take the massive "Kandil Sinap" and the desert-loving "Newtown Pippin".

Once the parents have been chosen, the breeders wait until the spring when the trees bloom. After that, you need to take pollen from one flowering tree (father) and transfer it to another plant (mother). That is, it is all done by cross-pollination. When the mother flower becomes an apple, its seeds are harvested and then planted.

It can take up to five years for the seed to grow into trees. At the same time, due to the mode of inheritance, all planted seedlings will have a different set of genes and characteristics. This means that the desired apple may not appear immediately, so you need a large offspring. This stage can take years, as the desired variety of apples is obtained at random. This is one of the most important differences between breeding and genetic engineering, when scientists know what kind of apple should be obtained by interfering with the fruit's DNA.

When the seedlings produce fruits with the desired characteristics, they are sent to farms for further evaluation.

One of the most boring, but no less important stages that every breeder must go through before his variety sees the world. The breeder needs to evaluate how different climates and soil types affect the growth and development of the apple. Seedling fruits and their various clones that have been grown under different conditions should be tested to ensure continuity. That is, to check the stability of the continuous cultivation of the obtained variety of apples.

Breeders evaluate 45 different characteristics of the apple, such as firmness and firmness of the flesh, size, sweetness of the juice, and shelf life. For several years they weed out the "bad" apple trees, choosing only those that gave the best fruits. These unique plants form a new variety of apples.

To obtain a copy of the new variety, all apple trees must be planted from the original seedling. That is, you take a branch from an existing apple tree of a new variety and graft it onto the root of the stock to make a clone tree from the branch. The rootstock is another tree that has a good root system and provides enhanced growth.

If you have carried out all these manipulations, then congratulations, you have bred a new variety. You can already jokingly call yourself Victor Frankenstein. But there is another stage, which for some breeders is one of the most difficult.

Step Four: Name the New Variety

Yes, this is a kind of final boss, which must be passed in order for a new variety to be released. After you have created your apple and patented it, the breeder chooses a kind of trademark. The move gives him long-term rights to the apple variety and its clones.

The name must be original, which may already seem like a difficult task due to 7,500 other names. For example, there are varieties "Baltic" and "Zhigulevskoye" (that's right, these are the names of apples, and not what you thought). Someone names the variety in honor of himself, the same Simirenko, and someone in honor of the region in which the apple was grown - Arkansas Black.

Is there another way to breed a new variety?

Yes, but it is difficult to perform - this is the exposure of seeds or fruits radiation resulting in various mutants. We recently wrote about atomic farming and about the crops that were bred by this method. So if you don't have constant access to x-rays, or if you don't have some cobalt-60 lost in your closet, then you are unlikely to use this method.

We will tell you how to cross between two varieties of the same plant species - this method is called hybridization. Let it be plants of different colors or differing in the shape of petals, leaves. Or perhaps they will differ in terms of flowering or requirements for external conditions?

Choose plants that bloom quickly to speed up the experiment. It is also better to start with unpretentious flowers - for example, foxgloves, marigolds or delphiniums.

The course of the experiment and the diary of observations

First, formulate your goals - what do you want to get from the experiment. What are the desired traits for new varieties?

Keep a notebook-diary where you write down the goals and record the progress of the experiment from beginning to end.

Do not forget to describe in detail the original plants, and then the resulting hybrids. Here are the most important points: plant health, growth intensity, size, color, aroma, flowering time.

flower structure

In our article, a flower will be considered as an example, you can see it in the diagram and in the photographs.


The appearance of flowers in different plants can vary significantly, but basically the same.

flower pollination

1. Start by choosing two plants. One will pollinator, and the other seed plant. Choose healthy and strong plants.

2. Keep a close eye on the seed plant. Choose an unblown bud with which you will carry out all manipulations, mark it. In addition, it will have to isolate before opening- tying it in a linen light bag. As soon as the flower begins to open, cut off all the stamens from it to avoid accidental pollination.

3. Once the flower of the seed plant is fully opened, put pollen on it from a pollinator plant. Pollen can be transferred with a cotton swab, a brush, or by tearing out the stamens of the pollinating flower and bringing them directly to the seed. Apply the pollen to the stigma of the flower of the seed plant.

4.Put on the flower of the seed plant linen bag. Do not forget to make the necessary notes in the diary of observations - about the time of pollination.

5. To be safe, repeat the operation with pollination after a while - for example, after a couple of days (depending on the timing of flowering).

Choose two flowers - one will serve as a pollinator, the other plant will become a seed.

Immediately, as soon as the flower of the seed plant blooms, cut off all the stamens from it.

Apply the pollen taken from the pollinating flower to the pistil of the flower of the seed plant.

A pollinated flower should definitely be marked.

Obtaining hybrids

1. If pollination went well, then soon the flower will begin to fade, and the ovary will increase. Do not remove the bag from the plant until the seeds are ripe.

2. Plant the resulting seeds as seedlings. When will you receive young hybrid plants, then give them a separate place in the garden or transplant them into boxes.

3. Now wait for the hybrids to bloom. Don't forget to write down all your observations in your diary. Among the first, and even the second generation, there may be flowers that exactly repeat the parental properties without changes. Such copies are rejected immediately. Check in with your goals and select among the received new plants those that best fit the desired characteristics. You can also pollinate them by hand, or isolate them.

The flower of the seed plant should be protected with a textile bag.

When you get the seeds, plant them for seedlings. Place young plants in boxes.

Keep a close eye on your new hybrid, and record your observations in a diary.

If you decide to seriously engage in breeding new varieties, then you will need the advice of a specialist breeder. The fact is that you will need to find out whether you really have bred a new variety or are you following the path already beaten by someone. Competition in the field of creating new varieties is very high.

For those who decide to experiment with hybridization as a home hobby, we wish to get a lot of pleasure from this activity, make many joyful discoveries and finally give all our gardening friends a new variety of some wonderful flower named after itself.

30 years have passed since this flower was born, bearing the dear name of the Chairman of the State Defense Committee of the DPRK, Kim Jong Il. February 15, 2018

Flower origin

Kimchenirhwa is a new flower bred by interbreeding different flower plants of South American origin. In the world, begonias grow in wide areas of the tropics and subtropics. There are more than 2,300 species of them. But such a rare and valuable breed of begonia as kimchenirhwa appeared, they say, for the first time.

This flower was bred by Japanese florist Motoderu Kamo. Once upon a time, having heard from his mother about the President of the DPRK Kim Il Sung as a legend, he became interested in reading books about Korea with extraordinary interest and unquenchable passion. During the days of his stay in the DPRK, he himself became a direct eyewitness to the vibrant life of the country, which is changing its appearance for the better every day. In those days, the Japanese felt with every fiber of his soul the wise guidance, ardent love for the people, the highest morality of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, who, with the warmth of paternal care, do everything to create happiness for all people.

A particularly deep impression was made on him by the Kimirsenghwa flower, born in 1965 by the Indonesians' sense of immense respect for Kim Il Sung. A fiery determination seized the Japanese botanist - at all costs to develop a new variety of flower, bearing the dear name of another incomparably outstanding great man Kim Jong Il, who leads Korea, the land of Juche, to prosperity.

And the Japanese florist began to continuously deepen research on the bulbous varieties of Begonias, which he had long cultivated with great interest. And, finally, he managed to develop a new variety of Begonias, which retains red-scarlet flowers, such as the sun's rays, for more than four months.

In February 1988, Motoderu Kamo, in his congratulatory letter to Kim Jong Il, dedicated to the 46th anniversary of his birth, poured out his soul with emotion: “With a feeling of congratulations to you on the 46th anniversary of your birth, wishing friendship between Japan and Korea , let me present you with a bulbous begonia, bred by me with a sincere soul ... With a feeling of wishing you good health and long life, the desire for development and prosperity of a bright future, I decided to name the new flower bred kimjongirhwa. If you allow me to present this plant to you, then I will consider this the highest honor for me ... ".

The best flower in the world, universal charm

Thus, the kimjongirhwa flower born became the subject of great interest of flower growers of the world, caused huge waves of delight among all people.

In February 1989, a world-class political song festival was held in Germany. A magnificent image appeared on the wide screen of the electronic monitor - kimjongirhwa blooming in a pot - a huge flower with petals of a red-scarlet color that evokes ardent passion, with thick stems supporting a large flower, and heart-shaped green leaves. In an instant, thunderous applause and enthusiastic exclamations thundered in the festival hall for a long time. Responses: “For the first time we see such beautiful, bright, lovely flowers as kimjongirhwa flowers”, “Kimjongirhwa surpasses the totality of all ornamental plants in the world”, “The birth of such a flower in the world is joy and pride for all mankind”, etc.

This flower, which immediately captured people's hearts with its bewitching beauty, vividly showed its beauty at international exhibitions of ornamental plants and flowers. Evidence of this is the highest special prize and a gold medal at the XII International Exhibition of Ornamental Plants in the former Czechoslovakia (May 1991), the best prize at an exhibition of ornamental plants in the Chinese city of Girin (August 1997), the Grand Prix and a commendation at the largest in the light of the World Exhibition of Ornamental Plants A-1 Kunming in China (1999), prize and ribbon of honor as the first award at the Begonia Exhibition in the US state of California (August 2004), top prizes at the World Exhibition of Ornamental Plants in China in Shenyang (2006), at the Benro World Ornamental Plant Exhibition in the Netherlands (2012), at the International Ornamental Plant Exhibition in Mongolia (2014), etc.

In 2004, on behalf of the International Scientific Society of Florists, the American Begonia Association, having considered the varietal characteristics and decorative value of the kimjongirhwa flower, officially registered it as a new variety No. 991. On the pages of her printed organ "Begonia" it was emphasized: "This flower bears the dear name of the great leader of the DPRK - commander Kim Jong Il."

The fascination of the people of the world with the kimjongirhwa flower gave a powerful impetus to the ardent desire to grow these flowers. So, in 1995, the North European Kimjongirhwa Flower Association was established in Sweden, and then in China, Indonesia, Mongolia, Japan, Ethiopia and many other countries and regions of the world, many associations and organizations of kimjongirhwa fans appeared, whole line greenhouses kimjongirhwa.

Public figures from more than 100 countries, after a visit to the DPRK, took the bulbs of this flower with them. In many countries of the world, more than 100 exhibitions of immortal flowers were held in a solemn atmosphere.

Our entire planet is ablaze with these flowers, and all people are fascinated by them, not only because of their extraordinary beauty. It must be said that this expresses the deepest respect and reverence of all mankind for leader Kim Jong Il, who has earned the honor of "Man of the World" on the wide arena of the world community.

Begonia home care photo of flowers reproduction transplant

Begonia belongs to the genus, which is considered one of the most numerous in the Begoniev family. In total, this genus includes approximately 1000 plants that grow in highlands, as well as in tropical forests, and they are known to be characterized by high humidity.

  • flower description
  • Species and varieties with photos
  • Royal
  • ever blooming
  • Elatior
  • Ampelnaya
  • Tuberous
  • Conditions for growing begonias
  • Transplantation by all means
  • reproduction
  • tubers
  • seeds
  • cuttings
  • leaf
  • Diseases and pests
  • Memo to the grower
  • Why do the buds fall
  • Useful properties of begonia
  • Most plant species are found in South America. But there is this beautiful flower and in Sri Lanka, India, the Himalayas, in the western part of the African continent.

    Begonias are characterized by heterosexual flowers, which differ in zygomorphism, that is, they have irregular shape. The perianth usually has a bright color.

    Tuberous begonia has large flowers, sometimes reaching 15 cm, and ever-flowering ones are small (2-3 cm each). The fruit of begonias are capsules that crack at the seams and throw out very small orange-yellow seeds.

    Species and varieties with photos

    Today there is no single accepted classification of begonias. In the literature, plants are divided into different qualities. So, some distinguish decorative-flowering species and varieties, as well as decorative-deciduous. Others divide begonias by roots. Accordingly, begonias are tuberous, rhizome, with superficial roots.

    But you can select the most common types of plants living both in rooms and greenhouses, and in gardens. They, in turn, are also divided into different varieties.

    Royal

    Begonia royal, regal or rex (Begonia rex)

    The view originates from the eastern side of India. This plant is considered one of the most beautiful of its kind. Based on it, more than one decorative leafy variety and other hybrids were bred.

    The royal begonia has thickened rhizomes, and its leaves are large, smooth or slightly pubescent. Their shape is heart-shaped, has jagged jagged edges, asymmetrical.

    The contour of the leaves is decorated with a crimson stripe, or a red-violet, sometimes brown line. Some hybrids have almost black leaves with crimson spots. The flowers of the plant are inconspicuous, have a pink color.

    This species includes such varieties: Silver Greenhart, Cartagena, Hallelujah, Evening Glow, etc.

    ever blooming

    A plant that has the form of a small bush that grows up to 60 cm. Its shoots are erect when young, when they reach maturity they become ampelous. The species is characterized by round leaves slightly pubescent along the edge, about 6 cm in size.

    The color of this species is not too diverse - dark, sometimes light green, there is a reddish tint.

    Ever-flowering begonia is terry and simple. Her palette includes not so many shades - pink, red and white. Size - up to 2.5 cm, inflorescences are not distinguished by a long life, prone to rapid fading, but are immediately replaced by others. With quality care and lighting, this begonia can also bloom in winter.

    Main varieties: Bicola, Carmen, Gustav Knaake, Orania.

    Elatior

    Begonia Elatior Baladin

    This species is considered very bright, it can also be called abundantly flowering. These plants are hybrids. They have long gained considerable popularity and are favorites of flower growers.

    It grows up to 40 cm in height. The stem is fleshy and thick. The leaves are heart-shaped, their edges are jagged, and the size is about 8 cm. From above, the leaves are glossy, smooth, bright green.

    And their inner side is lighter, matte. Flowers appear on rather long peduncles, they are collected in inflorescences.

    The most popular varieties: Louise, Rosa, Renaissance, Piccora.

    How to grow Elatior begonia: video
    Ampelnaya

    Begonia ampelous Margarita F1

    This species is more often seen on balconies, beautiful terraces or in gardens. The shoots of the plant are drooping, they descend in cascades and have many flowers. This plant is planted in pots, as well as hanging pots or baskets.

    The species is represented by varieties with double flowers, there are also densely double, semi-double varieties. The palette includes yellow, pink, red and other colors, as well as various combinations of them. Flowers come in different sizes.

    Varieties that are often found: Roxanne, Gale, Katie, Christie.

    Tuberous

    Begonia Fortuna Rose F1

    This species is also quite popular, mostly due to the abundant and long flowering. The plant is a perennial, tuber-forming plant. Its flowers resemble camellias or roses. They come in pink, red, orange, purple and other shades. In terms of size, the species includes large to small flowers, they can be double and simple.

    How to plant tuberous begonia: video

    Conditions for growing begonias

    Indoor types of begonias are therefore favorites among flower growers because they are unpretentious. Begonia does not require any complex conditions. It is also quite resistant to diseases and pests.

    Caring for this plant will not cause much trouble. But still, he must be literate, otherwise the plant will disappear.

    If stick temperature regime, the rules of watering and lighting, then the begonia will be well-groomed, neat and will always be able to delight with its sophistication.

    Begonia care at home

    Most suitable for growing windows that face west or east. As for the temperature, + 180C is considered optimal, although begonia can tolerate air well and warmer, especially in the summer months.

    Since the plant comes from the tropics, it loves moist air. But from spraying on begonia leaves, unaesthetic brown spots may appear. Therefore, in winter period when the air dries out the heating, pots with this flower can be placed in pallets with wet claydite.

    It is important to remember that decorative begonias do not tolerate crowding. This must be taken into account when placing flowerpots. The plant needs ventilation, although it absolutely does not tolerate drafts. From them it fades, sheds leaves and flowers.

    Begonia should be watered moderately, but carefully monitor the soil. Much more important is not watering, but sufficient humidity. The plant requires more moisture in the summer heat. But it is necessary to ensure that water does not stagnate in the roots.

    Settled water is best, but not cold - at room temperature. Particular attention should be paid to tuberous species. They do not need to be watered in winter.

    Fertilizers need to be applied periodically so that the begonia looks beautiful and healthy. Under the decorative-flowering species, it is necessary to make useful substances from the moment the buds appear. Further - 2 times in 30 days. You can use a complex substance for flowering plants.

    When the ovary is formed, substances containing potassium and phosphorus can be added (“Flower”, “Ovary”). As for nitrogen fertilizers, they are needed only for decorative deciduous species.

    Begonia loves a lot of light, especially flowering species. But in the heat, it is worth shading the plant so that it does not get burned. But decorative leafy varieties prefer diffused light.

    Majority flowering species begonias throw out flower stalks in the summer. Some continuously delight with their flowers - all year round. Tuberous ones sometimes bloom in autumn, but such buds need to be cut off so that the plant does not become exhausted. If organic fertilizers are added to the water for irrigation, the flowers will be more magnificent and more attractive.

    In general, begonia does not need to be shaped. However, if for some reason the plant has lost beautiful view, it can be trimmed, leaving only 4-5 cm in height. After that, lateral buds will grow, new and more active growth will begin.

    Transplantation by all means

    A begonia transplant is necessary if the flower needs a larger pot. This is not hard to guess: the roots begin to hang from the drain holes. But you need to transplant the flower correctly. It's done in early spring.

    The land can be taken from the store or prepared from peat, leafy soil, black soil. Drainage can be made from simple sand. Immediately before transplanting, the plant is taken out, cleaned from the ground.

    Then the root system is lowered into a solution of potassium permanganate. When the disinfection is over, you need to cut off the roots that have died.

    Immediately after transplanting, the plant should be watered more often. Young begonias tolerate the transplant procedure quite easily. But mature ones have a lot of fragile leaves and can suffer. Therefore, after reaching the age of three, begonias are often divided into parts during transplantation.

    How to plant ampelous begonia: video

    reproduction

    There are several ways to propagate begonias. This is the division of the bush, cuttings and propagation by the stem, as well as by seeds. Which method to choose often depends on the type of plant.

    tubers

    So, tuberous begonia can only propagate by seeds or tubers. This species is propagated as follows. In the spring, the tubers need to be removed and cut with a knife. Each particle must have at least one shoot or at least a bud, as well as its own roots. After processing the sections with crushed coal, the tubers can be planted in pots.

    seeds

    To propagate begonia seeds, they must be placed in a container with sand and earth. With moderate watering, you can get young plants, but you have to wait - this is a protracted long process. Seeds germinate in warmth and under good light, pots with them are covered with foil until germination.

    You can dive begonia after the appearance of 3-4 leaves. After 50-60 days, plants can be planted in separate pots. By the way, already in the first year, a young begonia can bloom, provided there is good lighting.

    cuttings

    A very simple vegetative method of propagating begonias is cuttings. Cuttings are cut from the plant, they must have at least 3-4 leaves. All sections should be treated with charcoal.

    Pots with cuttings should be placed in a place where there is a lot of light and heat, but there is no direct sunlight. It is important to ensure moderate watering, after the soil has dried out by 1-2 cm. Rooting is also carried out in water, where roots appear for about a month.

    leaf

    You can also propagate using begonia sheets. As a cutting, both the leaf itself and part of it are used.

    • In the first case, the main veins are cut on the underside.
    • With the same side, it is placed in moistened sand (pre-calcined), fixed.
    • You can only moisten the soil with a pallet.
    • Roots will begin to sprout from the incisions in about 2 months.

    When new plants gain strength, begin to grow, they can be transplanted into a separate pot with ready-made soil mixture.

    How to rejuvenate indoor flowers. Propagation of begonias by cuttings: video

    Diseases and pests

    A begonia in a room can be attacked by a spider mite, aphid. They feed on the juice from the cells of the plant, from which it loses its appearance, develops poorly.

    A couple of treatments with Karbofos or Aktellik with an interval of 7-10 days will help to destroy aphids.

    But you can overcome the tick with the help of drugs such as Derris, Decis.

    If the flower is affected by nematodes, has lost its color, then it will have to be thrown away - unfortunately, it cannot be treated.

    Begonia can get sick with gray rot, botrytis, powdery mildew. You can fight this with fungicides (Bordeaux liquid, Fundazol, etc.)

    If the begonia has caught some kind of viral or bacterial disease, for example, bacterial wilt, tomato spotting, then it will not be possible to cure it - it will have to be destroyed.

    Memo to the grower

    If we deduce the rules for growing begonias in several points, we get the following list:

    • Good lighting;
    • Moderate watering, but high humidity;
    • Warm room climate;
    • Timely feeding;
    • Quality transplant.

    Compliance with all these rules will allow you to grow beautiful lush begonias at home. The plants will be healthy and can be propagated in the chosen way without problems. As you can see, there really is nothing difficult to care for. Begonias need a little attention and love.

    Why do the buds fall

    Often people who grow begonias face such a problem: the buds fall off the plant. It is difficult to determine the exact cause of this condition. This behavior occurs due to various factors.

    • Where begonias just need to be fed.

    To find out the probable cause, you need to find out the rules for caring for the plant and determine what you are doing wrong. Then it will be easier to figure everything out and correct the situation by returning the flower to its beauty.

    Why leaves turn yellow and dry

    The poor condition of the leaves most often occurs due to insufficient moisture. At what, it may not be watering, namely the humidity of the air.

    • Begonia comes from the tropics, so it needs warm and saturated air.
    • Another reason is the depletion of the earth in a pot. If you have not fed the plant for a long time, then perhaps it's time to do it.
    • Also, sometimes pests start in the soil. They affect the roots of begonia, from which it begins to suffer and lose its beautiful appearance. In this case, you need to replace the soil by preparing a new substrate.
    • By the way, when transplanting, it is imperative to rinse the roots and soak them in potassium permanganate dissolved in water. Otherwise, you can move the pests to a new place.

    Useful properties of begonia

    Not many people know that begonia is a flower that is not only very beautiful, but also useful.

    Scientists conducted research and were able to prove that this plant has anti-allergic and antiseptic properties. Moreover, begonia helps to heal wounds and relieve spasms.

    It is rich in useful substances, including oxalic acid, phytoncides, organic acids and tannins. Begonias have also been proven to absorb chemicals.

    In addition, the plant can retain dust on its leaves and humidify the air in the room where it lives. You can put begonias near monitors and other household appliances. And all because this beautiful flower able to reduce their electromagnetic radiation.

    Various parts of the plant can be used for medicinal purposes. For example, juice helps to heal wounds and burns, ulcers, reduces pain in muscles and joints (as a compress), helps with a snake bite. But the defeat of the lungs and ulcers in the stomach are treated with an infusion of begonia juice on alcohol.

    This is so beautiful and useful plant- domestic begonia.

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    According to violet lovers, these plants reproduce easily, so that, having an adult bush of varietal Saintpaulia, dozens of young plants can be grown very soon. In this case, vegetative methods are most often used, with the help of which it is possible to preserve all varietal characteristics.

    Saintpaulias are propagated by leaf cuttings, dividing the bush and even flower stalks. When breeding new varieties, violets are propagated by seeds.

    In the article, you will learn everything about the reproduction of violets at home with a leaf, cuttings, dividing a bush, etc. and about the subsequent care of indoor flowers.

    Propagation of Saintpaulia by leaf cuttings

    Consider how to propagate violet by cuttings. Best of all, leafy cuttings take root in the spring and summer. For rooting, choose a healthy violet leaf with a sufficiently long petiole (at least 4 cm in length).

    You need to take the leaves not young, but not old. They should be large and without yellowness. Old and very young leaves usually die without taking root.

    The leaf should be cut as close as possible to the stem of the plant. If part of the petiole still remains on the mother violet, it must be removed. Such a petiole can rot and destroy the entire plant.

    The petiole of the cut leaf is cut diagonally so that the cut surface is as large as possible. After that, the leaf is rooted and planted in the ground. Leaf cuttings allow you to get a plant that is fully consistent with the mother. Only a few varieties, when propagated by leaves, lose their varietal characteristics.

    Methods for rooting cuttings

    Rooted leaf cuttings in water, in the ground or in sphagnum. Rooting in water is the easiest way. Cooled boiled water is poured into a glass and leaves are placed there with petioles down. The temperature during rooting must be maintained from 20 to 24ºС. Under these conditions, roots should appear in 2 weeks.

    Do not rush to plant rooted leaves in the ground. You can wait another 2-3 weeks until sprouts begin to appear on the petiole. Now the leaves can be planted in separate pots with Saintpaulia soil. It is not necessary to deepen them much, they are planted no deeper than 10-15 mm. After planting, rooted leaf blades are watered as adult plants.

    Sometimes a freshly cut leaf is immediately planted in the ground. After that, it is watered in the usual way, it is not covered with glass or a jar.

    Roots and young leaves appear after 1-1.5 months. Rooting in the ground is associated with the risk of leaf rotting and this method is considered not very productive.

    Good results are obtained by rooting leaf cuttings in sphagnum.

    In this substrate, they do not rot, since sphagnum moss has bactericidal properties. You can use both dry soaked and live moss.

    Rooting violets immediately in the soil mixture

    Very often, violet leaves are rooted directly in the soil. To do this, choose large and healthy leaves without defects and damage. Sluggish, rotten, broken leaves are not recommended to be taken, as they quickly disappear without taking root. The leaf stalk is shortened, leaving no more than 3 cm. The lower cut is made at an angle so that the area for root formation increases.

    Leaves are rooted in small plastic pots up to 5 cm wide. A drainage layer is placed on the bottom, equal in thickness to 1/3 of the height of the pot. A moist rooting substrate is poured on top. It contains earth mixture for violets and perlite in equal parts.

    The leaves are not buried deep - no more than 2 cm. In order for the heavy sheet to hold tightly and not fall out of the soil, it is fixed with sticks or matches. For speedy rooting, it is placed under a glass jar or placed in a plastic bag along with a pot.

    The temperature for rooting should be between 22-25ºС. Leaf lighting - diffused, at least 12 hours a day. The substrate should be moistened as it dries, and the leaves should be opened and ventilated. Under these conditions, they take root much earlier than in water.

    Propagation of saintpaulia with part of a leaf

    Violet can be grown not only from a whole leaf blade, but even from a leaf fragment. To do this, it is necessary to properly prepare the planting material. The leaf is cut in half and the central vein is removed. Then it is cut into fragments having at least one vein.

    Planting material is dried for 15-20 minutes to dry the sections. Then the leaf fragments are planted on the ground. They should not be buried. Pieces that are not dug in, but simply in close contact with moist soil, take root best of all. Sticks are used to fix them.

    The planted parts of the leaf are covered with glass jars. The substrate is moistened as it dries.

    The temperature for rooting is maintained at least 22ºС. Under these conditions, a lot of young plants can be obtained from one leaf, since a baby grows from each vein.

    Practice shows that leaf pieces are best rooted not in the soil mixture, but in pure sphagnum moss. This material is very moisture-absorbing and has bactericidal properties. When rooted in it, planting material rots extremely rarely, takes root well and forms babies.

    Violets are propagated by fragments of the leaf only by experienced flower growers, since any mistake leads to decay or drying out planting material. But sometimes this method of reproduction is the only possible one.

    This happens if a valuable violet leaf begins to disappear. Then all its diseased parts are removed, the leaf is cut into fragments and rooted.

    Division of the violet bush

    All varieties of violets are propagated in this way, even those that lose their varietal characteristics when propagated by leaves. Usually chimeras are propagated in this way. When grown from leaf cuttings, young plants often lose their unique coloration.

    The division of the bush can be carried out during the spring transplantation of a very overgrown plant with many shoots.

    Separate the shoots that grow from the base of the bush and already have their roots. Such sockets are carefully cut off so that a sufficient number of roots separate with them.

    When propagated by a peduncle, varietal characteristics of violets are preserved. This method also manages to propagate all varieties indoor violets while maintaining their varietal characteristics. Choose a peduncle that has recently faded or together with flowers so that it has small leaves.

    The peduncle is cut above the leaf and 1.5-2 cm lower. Then it is rooted in water or in sphagnum and planted in the ground to such a depth that the leaf is on the surface.

    Sowing Saintpaulia seeds

    Varietal seeds for indoor violets can be purchased at flower shops or garden centers. Sometimes you can get them at home.

    During flowering, violet flowers can be pollinated, and sometimes they themselves are pollinated if pollen from a neighboring flower falls on the pistil. After that, a box with seeds is formed, but the seeds ripen within 6 months, and in some cases even longer.

    Before you grow a violet from seeds, you need to prepare everything you need for seedlings. Violets seeds are very small, each box contains from 100 to 300 pieces.

    Seeds are sown in late March or early April. They are not sprinkled with soil, but only pressed down to the ground. Watered with a moisture sprayer.

    The temperature during germination must be maintained at least 22ºС. The container is covered with glass, but regularly ventilated to avoid the growth of fungi. Under such conditions, the seeds germinate in 2 weeks.

    Seedlings dive 3 times as they grow. During the third pick, they are planted in separate pots. Reproduction of violet seeds is not an easy task.

    soil for violets

    The substrate for violets should be nutritious and at the same time loose and breathable. You should also take care of the sterility of the soil mixture, as violets are susceptible to various fungal infections and rot easily.

    Soil for violets is sold in flower shops in assortment. Each potting mix manufacturer provides customers with substrates for these popular indoor plants. For sterilization purchased soils heating or freezing at low temperatures is applied.

    The soil for violets is difficult to prepare on your own. But if you really want to, you can try. The soil for violets should include:

    • Leaf ground from under a birch or linden - 2 parts;
    • Horse coarse-fiber peat - 1 part.

    Humus is added to the resulting mixture - 1/10 of the total volume.

    Perlite and vermiculite are used to loosen the soil. They are mixed in equal parts and add 1-2 cups per 1 bucket of soil mixture.

    Ready soil for violets must be steamed. This procedure destroys pest eggs, harmful bacteria and fungi.

    Caring for violets after breeding

    Violet babies appear at the base of the leaf stalk. If the leaf was rooted in the ground and was covered with a glass jar on top, it is gradually opened. While the children are too small, they are not touched, but only moisten the soil as it dries. Young plants need diffused light, the sun's rays can burn them.

    As soon as the young sockets reach a diameter of 5 cm, they are seated in separate pots.

    By this time, the rooted old leaf is already drying out. For miniature varieties the diameter of the rosette for transplantation can be 2-3 cm. Babies ready for transplantation should have 2-3 pairs of leaves. If there are fewer, it is likely that young plant still has a very weak root system.

    When transplanting, it is necessary to prepare several plastic pots with a diameter of 6-8 cm. Drainage is laid on the bottom, and 1-2 cm of soil for violets is poured on top. Young rosettes are removed from the pot and carefully separated. Each baby should have well-developed roots. They are planted in a new pot, sprinkling the roots with soil on top. The earth in the pot is slightly compacted.

    If some children have very weak roots, they are also planted in new pots and covered with glass jars on top. In conditions of high humidity, young rosettes take root quickly. When they go up, the banks can be removed. If the leaf gave only one baby, it is transplanted into a larger pot by transshipment.

    After transplanting, young sockets must be watered. Further, they need to be looked after as adult plants. After the violet grows 5-6 large adult leaves, the old small leaves can be carefully cut off.

    The first 2-3 months after transplantation, the sockets are not fed. Then you should start feeding with liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants. Usually young violets, rooted in late spring, begin to bloom in early autumn.

    Now you know how to propagate violets at home correctly. You can read about the basic care of Saintpaulias here.

    dom-florista.ru

    How to breed new varieties of violets yourself

    How to breed new varieties of violets to please a girl on her birthday) Who has already done this or who knows who did it, please throw pictures in the comments)

    The work of a breeder in breeding a new variety of violets requires great patience, experience and knowledge from him. The process of how to breed a new variety of violet has been described and studied for more than one millennium. Its principle is based on the repeated process of crossing different varieties of violets and requires years of painstaking work. To breed a new variety of violets, you must first acquire a solid basic knowledge of growing different varieties of violets and be able to grow healthy flowers of various varieties. Then you need to learn how to properly pollinate them. In order to properly pollinate a violet flower, you need to apply pollen to the pistil, which is borrowed from the yellow anthers of the plant. The anther is opened in advance with a sterile needle. Pollen is ready for pollination after maturation, 5-6 days after the flower opens. After maturation, it remains active for three months. The maturation of the pistil can be determined by the characteristic drop of liquid that has come out, thanks to which the pollen is well attached to the surface of the pistil. After pollination, the amniotic ovary will begin to form a capsule in which, as it matures, small dust-like seeds are formed that have a dark brown color. After 5-7 months, when the seeds reach their maturity, the stalk will wither and the box can be easily separated from the plant. The ripe box must be removed from the plant, dried for several days and opened with a needle. Seeds are placed in paper bags and stored in a dry and dark place. Seeds can be sown 2-3 weeks after ripening, although depending on the variety, they can remain viable for six months or more. Transferring the characteristics of parental pairs to a new species of violet is extremely difficult. For example, if you cross a purple and pink violet, you can teach offspring with blue and purple shades of flowers. If you cross a violet with simple flowers and a terry, the probability of getting offspring with simple flowers is extremely high. During repeated pollination, new, previously uncreated varieties can be bred. But it will take time to grow a new variety, and more than one year.

    Well, maybe for a girl's 50th birthday... It's VERY DIFFICULT AND VERY LONG. If your girlfriend loves violets and collects them, then go to any site dedicated to the trade in varietal violets and order planting material for cool varietal violets, get it in the mail and hand it to the girl. You can open the catalog and ask the girl to choose the violets that she liked. The key here is to stop...

    This is a very long and painstaking business, if you start now, maybe in five years you will please her with a new variety. But this is if you are already an experienced grower and growing violets from seeds is not a problem for you.

    Buy ready-made, at the exhibition. I think your girlfriend will be happy with any violet if there is none in her collection

    indoor-plants-tips.ru

    How violets breed at home - K-dou18.ru

    Also, during the laying of buds, you can fertilize with a fertilizer containing phosphorus, and for young plants - with a large amount of nitrogen. Fertilizer for violets can be applied no more than once a month, alternating different types.

    For good growth, only one plant can “live” in a pot, therefore, when growing, extra sockets must be planted, but with care so as not to touch the roots. This makes it possible to get another plant without spending extra money.

    There are several ways in which the uzambar violet reproduces. Care at home will make it quite easy to prepare planting material for its reproduction and even the cultivation of new varieties:

    • pieces of leaves;
    • sockets or stepchildren;
    • seeds (the longest process).
    • The best time for this is spring and summer, because in winter the plant is at rest and requires specific conditions for care.

      Propagation by cuttings (leaves)

      The easiest way to grow many plants of the Uzambar violet species at home is to propagate by cuttings. For this, the largest leaves are used, which must be cut with a very sharp knife at a slight angle (so as not to crush the stem).

      There are 2 ways to root leaves:

    • in the water, where a small piece of the leaf stem falls, the germination of the roots usually takes 10-14 days (the water must be added little by little, maintaining the same level);
    • in a special soil (peat mixture) at a depth sufficient to keep the leaf in a standing position at a slight angle, while the most important point is to maintain a microclimate above the ground using a plastic bag, a can or a cut piece of a plastic bottle, the soil must be maintained with sufficient moisture, the mini-greenhouse is removed after the rooting of the cutting.
    • Reproduction by rosettes

      When the adult violet has already grown well, then daughter rosettes (stepchildren) begin to appear next to it, which will also help to propagate this plant. To plant a socket, you need to wait until it grows to a minimum of 5 cm in height. After that, it is very carefully separated from the main stem, trying not to harm the roots.

      It is better to plant in the same soil, after rooting, after a month, the violet will release fresh young leaves and the formation of buds will begin.

      Varieties and varieties of Saintpaulia

      Varieties of uzambara violets are a great variety of different colors and shapes of leaves that were bred by professional biologists on purpose or even by amateurs by accident. Moreover, when propagated by cuttings, any grower can grow a completely new variety (degenerate varieties).

      Saintpaulia varieties are divided into several groups according to the size of the rosette, the variety of flowers and the shape of the leaves.

      So, varieties with a monochromatic color or with a border naturally inherit the traits of their parents during the leaf propagation method, and the border can appear only during the second flowering.

      Fantasy species (decorated with spots, stripes, dots) are recommended to be propagated by peduncles or with the help of stepchildren, then they inherit this color. Violets-“chimeras” are propagated in the same way, having a pattern on flowers in the form of rays.

      Ampel varieties, having a long stem and growing at several points, are distinguished by a large number of flowers and many rosettes.

      Wasp-type varieties are one of the new and original types of violets, in which the flower has 2 short upper petals and 3 lower petals that are longer and narrower, forming an exotic appearance.

      One of the most popular varieties now - the blue violet, bred in Russia, has large, up to 10 cm, bright blue flowers, and the plant itself is strongly branched and up to 40 cm high. There are several such varieties of violets that have different shape flowers:

    • Blue fog - pale blue fluffy balls with wavy edges.
    • Blue Danube - has many blue flowers up to 5 cm in diameter.
    • Blue dragon - pale blue stars with a blue center, a wide red border with a white-golden edge, flowers up to 6 cm in size.
    • Blue Lagoon - bright blue violet with a blue spot and a red flounce around the edge.
    • Diseases and treatment of Saintpaulia

      Violets are very whimsical plants that require a certain humidity of air and soil, a lot of light, but not direct sunlight, certain care and feeding. But even when all these conditions are met, it happens that the plant gets sick.

      The main task in such a situation is to learn how to determine the cause of the disease and distinguish between infectious diseases of the uzambar violet and non-infectious ones, that is, caused by a lack of some useful substances or improper conditions of detention.

      One of the common problems is the yellowing of the leaves of the plant, most often caused by improper soil acidity, too bright sun or strong shading.

      Infectious diseases of violets:

    • Fusarium (rosette rotting) - the causative agent is the Fusarium fungus, which penetrates young roots under the wrong conditions (heavy soil, regular water overflow, especially cold, a very large pot). Due to the disease, the petioles of the leaves turn brown and begin to fall off. To prevent the appearance of this fungus, it is recommended to water the plant every 2 months with a solution of foundationol. For treatment, violets should be treated with fungicides, after removing dried or rotten stems and leaves.
    • Powdery mildew - appears as a whitish coating on all surface parts, spreads with a lack of lighting, improper humidity, dust or dirt in the air. The reason may also be a lack (potassium and phosphorus) or an excess of trace elements (nitrogen). For treatment, you can use spraying with foundationazole or benlat (usually 1 time is enough, but can be repeated if necessary). So that the Uzambara violet does not get sick with powdery mildew, home care for it should be as follows: for prevention, wipe wet wipes leaves, ventilate the room and prevent excess moisture in the pot;
    • Late blight - rotting of the root neck of violets and the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, which is caused by a fungus that penetrates through the roots or wounds on the stems. The danger of late blight is that fungal spores settle in the soil, and therefore the only way out is to destroy the plant and sterilize the pot. To prevent the occurrence of this unpleasant disease, superphosphate should be added to the soil and the humidity in the room should not be higher than 60%;
    • Gray rot, which is caused by the fungus botrytis, manifests itself as a gray-brown bloom on all upper parts of the plant, and then rotting and death of the violet. The fungus often enters with contaminated soil, therefore, before planting each plant, it is recommended to freeze the soil in a freezer, and then water it with a solution of manganese. All diseased parts of the violet must be destroyed, and the plant should be treated with fungicides. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to prevent excessive watering and a sharp drop in temperature in the room.
    • Violets pests

      The most common pests that affect saintpaulias:

    • worms - affect leaves and young flower stalks, deforming them and causing red spots to appear; treatment with Actellik or Fitoverm helps against them;
    • aphids are usually brought into the house from fresh flowers, insects eat flower buds, using plant sap as food; to get rid of aphids, you must use "Moskpilan" or "Aktellik";
    • ticks (several species) - spoil young leaves, to combat them, plants are treated with Akarin, Fitoverm, etc.
    • Uzambara violet, or saintpaulia, is a very beautiful and diverse ornamental plant in terms of colors and varieties, which is successfully grown on windowsills by many amateurs and professionals of decorative floriculture.

      Propagation of violets by leaf

      Violet is an annual or perennial herbaceous plant, which has more than five hundred varieties that differ in color, shape and size of leaves and flowers. Since it blooms in early spring, its flowering seems to mark the end of winter. It is believed that the birthplace of violets is Australia.

      Violet: care and reproduction at home

      This flower can be grown in a greenhouse or at home. Violet reaches a height of 30 cm and is characterized by active growth.

      Flower care is quite simple and does not take away a large number time. Violets love good lighting, but do not place them in direct sunlight. The best side for growing will be the north, in extreme cases - the east or west.

      In order to ensure uniform growth and development of the violet from all sides, it is periodically necessary to turn it in different directions in relation to the light.

      It is advisable to add coarse sand and peat moss to the ground with a pot. Is it necessary to prepare drainage in advance so that it takes at least? pot.

      Violet loves water, so the soil in the pot should be constantly moist. However, do not pour too much water, otherwise the roots may begin to rot.

      Violet needs to be repotted once a year. However, do not take a larger pot. It is enough to change the earth and plant the plant in the same pot.

      How to propagate violet leaves?

      Reproduction of violets is carried out by leaves or their fragments, that is, part of the leaf. Leaf rooting can be carried out in water or soil.

      Rooting a whole leaf in water

    • We pinch off a leaf with a cutting from a bush at an angle of 45 degrees. The length of the petiole should be no more than 4 cm.
    • . Let the cutting area dry for 15 minutes.
    • For rooting in water the best way a dark glass container is suitable. You can take medicine bottles. Little water is needed. Pour the liquid to a level of no more than 1.5 cm from the day of the container.
    • We create greenhouse conditions for the sheet, covering it with a plastic container.
    • Rooting a whole leaf in the ground

    Rooting a leaf fragment in water or soil

    If “tight” varieties of violets are used in the growing process, then babies may appear no earlier than four to six months from the moment of planting. In this case, you can stimulate faster growth of children if you intentionally damage the leaf plate. With a sharp knife, you need to cut off one third or one quarter of the leaf. The cut can be made obliquely by cutting a triangle along the veins, or in a straight line, as shown in the photo below.

    The technique for planting a part of a leaf is the same as for the whole.

    If you follow the rules for the care and reproduction of violets at home, you will be pleased with luxurious hats of beautiful flowers.

    Reproduction of violets at home

    There are several ways to propagate indoor violets and they cannot be unequivocally called simple or complex, as well as the process of their reproduction as a whole. Violets are whimsical and delicate plants, but those who have been growing for a long time, confidently say that with experience it becomes absolutely simple. What are the subtleties, what are the features, and which method gives the highest probability of rooting a new plant, we will describe further.

    There are vegetative methods of reproduction: by a leaf, a whole or part of it and a peduncle, or by sowing seeds. Each has its pros and cons, so that everyone understands how it will be easier for him, we will describe each method in detail.

    Violet leaf propagation

    Propagation of violets by division of a leaf or a whole leaf is the most common and in a simple way. Everything here is primitive and simple: a healthy leaf is cut off or neatly torn off from the mother plant and planted in the ground. You can wait for the roots to grow in the water and only after that, knowing for sure that there are already roots, plant them in the ground. This is already individual for everyone. For germination in the store, a special soil for violets is selected (it may also be called "for saintpaulias"). If germination took place in water, then rooted cuttings are planted in the soil with great care, since the root is very fragile and sensitive.

    If it is not possible to root a whole sheet, or if you want to get several rosettes from one leaflet, then there are options for dividing the sheet. The upper part is cut off from it, but not horizontally, but along the veins (a triangle is cut off) and this part is planted to form rosettes.

    It is possible to divide the entire sheet into several segments along the veins and plant them all in a kind of greenhouse, then much more borings will be created. This, of course, is a somewhat jeweler's work that requires accuracy, skills and a very sharp tool (the use of which also requires accuracy and skill), but with a strong desire it is worth a try. The first time may not work out, but with each subsequent everything will become much easier.

    It is worth noting that not all violets undergo this method of reproduction. The common and beloved “violetcomans” of Saintpaulia reproduce very well with this method, but it is not suitable for chimeras, varietal characteristics are not transmitted when the leaf is separated.

    Propagation of violets by peduncles

    We immediately warn you that not all flower stalks are suitable for propagation, so they should first be carefully examined, and then it should be determined whether to use it in this way, or still cut off the leaf. So, if there are small leaves on the peduncle slightly below the flowers, then it can become the basis for a new violet.

    Here, again, there are two options: you can simply bend such a peduncle to the ground, giving it the opportunity to grow roots in this way, or carefully cut it off and root it like a leaf. When choosing an option, you should be guided by how the peduncle is located and whether bending the plant does not injure.

    When propagating, therefore, varietal characteristics are always transmitted, which is a plus, but there are two minuses. Firstly, flower stalks with leaves are rare, and secondly, not everyone wants to deprive their beauty of his main decoration - flowers.

    Reproduction of violet seeds

    Propagation of violets by seeds is also practiced, but not too often, and there are two good reasons for this. The first is that this process is lengthy, painstaking and unreliable, and the second is that when sowing seeds, the original plant variety is not preserved, that is, the violet reproduces, but not the same. The method is used mainly just for breeding new varieties.

    The method of sowing seeds, as you can already understand, is used by breeders. To prepare enthusiasts for future results, we note that no more than 1-3% of newly bred plants will continue to grow after the first flowering, all the rest will become unusable and thrown out. In addition, germinated sprouts will require constant supervision, control and care, therefore, at home, this method is not considered appropriate and generally real, therefore we recommend choosing any method of vegetative propagation of violets.

    Vegetative propagation of violets

    The article provided two options for vegetative propagation of violets: a peduncle and a leaf or part of it. They are used most often and give good results. There is a third option - reproduction by side rosettes, children.

    Children grow up quite often. This may be caused by injury to the plant, removal of the stem of an adult plant, or it may be a species feature. Babies can grow in the axils of the leaves or on the stem, but even so, and so they are quite easy to separate. The separation of children is generally recommended so that they do not interfere with the development and growth of the main plant. The unequivocal advantage of this method of reproduction is the absolute repetition of species characteristics and simplicity, especially since the children take root quite quickly.

    How to grow a violet from a leaf, video

    And finally, a useful video and growing violets from a leaf.

    How to propagate violet leaves at home?

    Violet leaf propagation at home is possible. However, there are a number of nuances that need to be taken into account. There are certain requirements for choosing a seedling, and there are also rules for its primary processing. In order for the leaf to begin to take root, you need to properly plant it in soil or water. In the first case, one should not forget about the irrigation regime, so that the plant will take root soon, and about the harm that bacteria can cause to seedlings.

    Violet leaf propagation takes place in several stages. They consist of:

  • 1. Selection of strong leaves. This is an important point, since the success of reproduction depends on the correct selection. The main thing is to make sure that the leaves are healthy (not infected with bacteria).
  • 2. Seedling preparation. For him, it is necessary to create favorable conditions in which he can take root. There are two ways to prepare a seedling: in soil and in water.
  • 3. Planting the cutting and further care. At this stage, it is worth observing the conditions associated with the choice of soil, pot and irrigation regime.
  • The best time The year for plant propagation by leaf is spring and summer, since during this period there is enough light and heat. But if the cultivation of a plant by a leaf - the only way save a rare variety, then an experienced florist will be able to carry out his plan in the rest of the year. To do this, create greenhouse conditions. The temperature in the room should be at the level of + 22 ... + 26 ° C, the humidity of the air is considered optimal at 50-60%.

    Before you start transplanting a plant, you need to study the planting material. Choose juicy, dark green sheets without defects. Tips for choosing material for transplanting a flower:


    k-dou18.ru

    How to propagate violet leaf at home

    Uzambara violets are attractive for home maintenance with their long flowering, variety of varieties, unpretentiousness and the possibility of easy reproduction. These flowers do not need a lot of space on the windowsill, sometimes they are even kept on racks next to the window, illuminated by fluorescent lamps. Saintpaulias are considered a symbol home comfort, they are in almost every apartment. Let's talk about how you can propagate these delicate plants with just one leaf.

    Description of the uzambar violet (photo)

    Violet belongs to the Gesneriaceae family. This plant was first discovered in East Africa. Saintpaulia is classified as a herbaceous plant with a very short stem and a lush rosette of leaves. The leaves are most often heart-shaped, they can be rounded and more elongated. The upper side of the leaf has pubescence, its color can be different shades of green. The lower part of the leaves is lighter, greenish or purple. The leaves look quilted due to pronounced veins.

    On one peduncle, from 3 to 7 medium-sized flowers are formed. With the full flowering of an adult rosette, up to 100 flowers can be present on a violet at the same time. Under good conditions, Saintpaulias bloom continuously for 8-9 months a year. Nearly 1,200 new hybrid varieties. Their difference can be seen both in the size of the leaf rosette and in the shape and color of the flowers.

    Violets are bred with simple, semi-double and double inflorescences. Violets-chimeras are gaining more and more popularity. Their gene structure is changed in such a way that the synthesis of pigments occurs differently in different parts of the petals and the color is very unusual. Unfortunately, the varietal characteristics of such plants are lost during leaf propagation, remaining only in stepchildren.

    Violet leaf propagation correctly (step by step)

    The rooting ability is strongly influenced by the quality of the planting material. If you decide to propagate the violet with a leaf, choose it from the middle layers of the leaf rosette. The lower old leaves are already weaker and have less supply vitality. Their proximity to the ground increases the risk of pathogenic microflora and fungal spores on them. And if you cut a leaf from the top of the outlet, it is easy to damage the growth point, in which case the plant will stop developing.

    On a note! The leaf selected for propagation must be fully formed, have good turgor and sufficient size.

    If you got a leaf, received by mail or brought by your friends, which managed to become slightly lethargic, soaking in warm boiled water with the addition of a few crystals of potassium permanganate will help. It is advisable to hold it in solution for about 2 hours, this will restore elasticity and at the same time kill the pathogenic flora.

    After that, the sheet must be blotted with a napkin and cut off the edge of the handle with a sharp knife so that its length is 3-4 cm. The cut can be made either straight or at an angle of 45 degrees. Then proceed to the process of rooting, which can be done in two ways: in water and in the substrate.

    Rooting in water

    The “water” method is more suitable for inexperienced flower growers, since with this method of rooting it is easy to observe the process of root growth and the condition of the cutting. It is advisable to use boiled or filtered water so that it does not spoil quickly. It is better to use dishes from dark glass. For rooting in water you need:

    • Thoroughly wash and rinse the cup for the leaf cutting with boiling water and fill it with water.
    • Place the sheet in a container so that the lower part of the petiole is immersed in water by 1-2 cm. You can keep it in the required position with a lid or a sheet of thick paper with a hole. The petiole should not touch the walls of the glass.
    • Throw an activated charcoal tablet or small charcoal into the water to prevent rotting processes.
    • After that, monitor the water level, constantly topping it up to the original level.
    • When the roots reach a length of 1-2 cm, plant a leaf of violet in the substrate.

    If the process goes as it should, then the appearance of the roots can be seen in 2-4 weeks. Sometimes it happens that the end of the leaf petiole still rots. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the affected tissue to a healthy place and put the leaf back into the rooting cup. In this case, the dishes are treated with an antiseptic, and then fresh water is poured.

    Attention! Some lovers of violets with the "water" rooting method leave the leaf in the water until a young rosette appears. We do not recommend doing this, as in this case the shoots may be weakened, which will worsen their further development.

    When planting a leaf with roots in the soil, keep in mind that you can not deepen it much, otherwise it will be more difficult for the outlet to break through. The pot for planting is 1/3 filled with expanded clay, on top of which a loose soil mixture is laid. The planted leaf is covered with a glass jar, after moistening the substrate. The jar is lifted daily for 5-10 minutes for ventilation, this is necessary. They remove the shelter after 2-3 weeks when a young outlet appears.

    How to propagate a violet leaf in water: video

    Rooting in the substrate

    If a leaf cutting is planted immediately in the ground, rooting will occur even faster than in water. It is better to resort to this method if the leaf is not quite mature or, on the contrary, is old, having lost turgor. When planting in the ground, the petiole of the leaf is cut a little shorter, up to 1.5 centimeters. It is enough to take a pot quite small, 5 cm in diameter. It must have in it drainage hole. A drainage layer is poured to the bottom, and then the soil, consisting of fertile land and perlite. Perlite will help retain moisture in a small amount of soil and at the same time facilitate air access to the roots.

    Helpful advice! For an antibacterial effect, sphagnum can be added to the composition of the substrate.

    • Before planting, the substrate should be slightly moistened.
    • Leaf cuttings of miniature hybrids are deepened by 0.5 cm, and standard cuttings are planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.
    • If you have a lot of planting material, you can plant several leaves in one cup at once.
    • In order not to get confused in the varieties, markings are glued on the outside.
    • After planting, cover the leaf with a film or jar, creating a greenhouse. It will provide inside high humidity air and protect the seedling from drafts. Periodically moisten the earth and ventilate.

    Some flower growers share their experience of planting leaf cuttings in peat tablets. They claim that, due to the presence of nutrients, roots and young rosettes form very quickly with this method of planting. Warmth and light are important for successful rooting in the substrate. Daylight hours should be at least 12 hours, and the temperature in the room should be 22-26 degrees.

    Rooting a violet leaf cutting in a substrate: video

    violet care

    In order for violets to remain healthy and bloom for a long time, they need to create comfortable conditions by providing the necessary temperature, lighting, humidity, timely feeding and transplanting. Let's dwell on these important points.

    Temperature and lighting

    Violets are thermophilic. The minimum temperature of their content should not fall below 18 degrees, the optimal indicators are 20-24 degrees Celsius. Plants must be protected from drafts. If window sills are too cold in winter, place the violet pots on insulating stands to keep the roots cool.

    Saintpaulias need bright and diffused lighting, without direct sunlight. In summer, it is better to place them on the northern and eastern windows, and in winter move them to the southern and western window sills. On very sunny days, it is necessary to organize shading on the windows; in winter, the plants, on the contrary, illuminate. So that the socket does not bend, it is periodically turned to the light on the other side. You can grow violets at full artificial lighting It doesn't affect their growth in any way. For this, fluorescent lamps are quite suitable.

    Humidity and watering

    Violets do not like dry air. Especially flowers suffer from it during the period when central heating is turned on. At the same time, it is impossible to spray the leaves due to the fact that they are pubescent. The villi can retain water, as a result of which rot will develop on the leaves. To humidify the air, it is advisable to use special humidifiers or place water containers on the windowsill.

    Violets can be watered from above from a syringe or a watering can with a narrow spout, such watering is called drip. In this case, you need to be careful with the amount of water and make sure that it does not fall on the leaves. If you find it difficult to regulate watering in this way, water the saintpaulias through the pan.

    Clean, settled water is poured there, the soil is allowed to soak with moisture, after which the remaining water is drained. This method is considered safer in terms of waterlogging. Some use wick watering, but it is not suitable for all varieties and has several disadvantages. This method is best used when necessary, for example, while leaving on vacation or a business trip.

    Top dressing and transplants

    For top dressing, you can use superphosphate granules, which are laid when transplanted into the soil. This supply of violets will last for a while. After 1-2 months, you can begin to make weekly complex and organic fertilizers, alternating them with each other. Organics are well absorbed only by adult and healthy specimens. Complex fertilizer is diluted in water according to the instructions and watered with a solution of moistened soil.

    Violet should not be planted in large pots, otherwise you may not wait for flowering. The new pot should be 2 cm larger than the old one in diameter. Better if it is made of plastic. You can plant a violet in the same container. In this case, they take it out of the pot, cut off the old and dead roots, shake off the old soil, and then plant the flower in place, adding some fresh earth. It is better to rinse the pot well inside with a brush to disinfect it and remove fungal spores.

    As a primer, you can take special soil for Saintpaulia, adding a little perlite and vermiculite to it.

    Before landing on the bottom, it is necessary to lay a drainage layer of expanded clay. The soil should be moist, but not damp. Plant the plant so that the leaf socket does not touch the ground. The first watering is carried out two days after transplantation.

    Flower growers are advised to start breeding violets with simpler varieties, capricious hybrids require experience in keeping. If you provide the plant with ideal conditions, it will not create any problems for you. As you gain experience, you will make fewer and fewer mistakes, learn to "understand" your flower. After that, it will be possible to start keeping and propagating more exotic varieties.

    Source

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    How the variety is bred

    The science that develops methods (methods) of breeding plant varieties is called a selection. The Latin word "selection" in Russian means selection or choice.
    Human selection has been used for a long time. Primitive people selected wild plants, which gave them food or fiber for clothing, and carried them to their dwellings. As a result of long-term selection, new, cultivated plants appeared. It can be said that all the cultivated plants that we cultivate in our fields, vegetable gardens, orchards are mainly the result of centuries of human activity.
    Many types and forms of plants, created by unknown breeders, have existed since time immemorial. About two thousand years ago, in ancient Rome, the works of the writer and agronomist Columella, the scientist Varro, the poet Virgil appeared, in which the first instructions are found on how to select plants. By the end of XVIII - early XIX in. Breeders-practitioners brought out many varieties and forms of plants that had never been seen before, especially vegetable and ornamental flowers. They also achieved great success in breeding new breeds of farm animals. So, England at that time became the leading country in the development of breeding livestock, the world supplier of breeding horses, cattle, chickens. In France, Germany, the United States, large enterprises also developed, supplying Agriculture specially bred high-grade seeds and high-bred animals.
    Since the first half of the last century, a particularly rapid development of natural science began. Scientific discoveries followed one after another. The creation of the cell theory was of paramount importance. Many regularities in the reproduction and nutrition of plants have been established.
    With the development of natural science, scientific selection appeared, which was based on the theory of Charles Darwin.
    Let's get acquainted with the methods that breeders use in their work to develop new varieties or forms of plants.
    The selection method, although it is the most ancient, still remains one of the main ones in plant breeding.
    In every crop there are better and worse plants, and among the best there are the best. For example, for cereals, these are plants with a large and multi-grain ear, resistant to diseases, shedding, and lodging. The best ear is threshed and each grain is sown separately. Among the grown plants, we will again find the best and the worst. Again, we will select the best of them. Such repeated selection can result in a more or less homogeneous material that will have all the features and properties that interest us. The selection must be carried out in the same soil and climatic conditions in which the new variety will be cultivated.
    You have to be very observant, be able to notice structural features, properties and characteristics of plants that distinguish them from all the others. For this, careful monitoring of the plants grown is necessary. After making sure that the plants have become homogeneous in terms of traits and properties that are valuable to us, we can proceed to their simple reproduction ...
    But sometimes selected plants lose their traits in the next generation. The reasons for this phenomenon are different.
    For example, under the influence of different conditions, non-hereditary changes, so-called modifications, can occur in a plant. many forms soft wheat, grown in the valley, have a white or slightly reddish ear, and in the highlands, the color of the ear becomes dark red or almost black. But the seeds sown in the valley will again give bright ears.
    Another example. All flowering plants are mainly divided into cross-pollinating and self-pollinating. But there are plants that, by the nature of fertilization, are both at the same time. If the conditions are favorable, i.e., the weather is sunny, warm, they bloom openly and cross-pollination occurs. In inclement weather, the flower does not fully open, which leads to self-pollination. It is much more difficult to conduct selection among "cross-breeders" than among self-pollinating plants. So, for example, in winter rye one can often observe

    the appearance of ears with grains of intense pink, almost crimson color. However, the selection of plants for this trait is usually not successful. Due to cross-pollination, plants grow from raspberry grains, in the ears of which grains are formed with the usual color for winter rye.
    In winter rye one can observe, although not often, plants with a branched ear. In order to fix this trait, we must first of all exclude the possibility of cross-pollination of this plant with any other plant that has the usual spike structure. To do this, all the ears of the selected branching type plant must be isolated together, under one paper bag. Then pollination will occur only between them. Plants with a branching structure of the ear, developed from the obtained seeds, must be grown separately, removing all plants with non-branching ears. In order to fix this trait, it is necessary, in subsequent generations, immediately after earing, to destroy all plants in which ears are ordinary, unbranched. Then natural cross-pollination will occur between plants that have only a branched spike structure. In this way we created new form winter branched rye.
    In some cases, non-hereditary changes are quite dramatic. In this way, for example, the famous American breeder JI. Burbank developed a new potato variety. Here's how it happened. In a potato field, where a little-known variety of potatoes grew, which usually did not produce seeds, Burbank discovered a berry on one plant. It contained 23 seeds, which he sowed in the garden in the spring. Lush bushes developed from each seed, but in autumn none of these plants produced berries, but each of them formed a nest of beautiful tubers. Burbank wrote about this: "As we moved along the row, digging one bush after another, we found tubers of a new type on each subsequent bush. One had small tubers of an unusual shape, the other large ones with deep eyes, the next - tubers are red, with a rough skin ... But on two bushes there were tubers that could be immediately distinguished into an independent variety. They were very large smooth white tubers, superior in every respect to any of the existing varieties. "
    The Burbank potato variety, although it was introduced in 1872, is cultivated in the fields to this day. Burbank called his valuable find a discovery. In his words, "materials for discoveries surround us in abundance." This is very true. A careful observer can find a lot of value in the forest, in the meadows, on the slopes of the mountains, on the shores of the seas, rivers and in any field.
    Selection is the simplest method of obtaining new varieties of plants, it is the most accessible to nature lovers. But, as you can see, it has its own difficulties.
    In breeding, the method of hybridization (crossing) is also used.
    Before proceeding to crossbreeding, they set a certain task. For example, it is necessary to obtain a variety of wheat that would be more productive. To achieve this goal, first of all, the source material is selected. What should it be? Along with other positive properties and characteristics, selected varieties of wheat should be distinguished by high yields.
    Seeds of selected varieties are sown on the site (breeders call it the nursery of the source material) under normal, field conditions. From the grown plants, the best ones are selected in terms of a combination of economically useful traits, as well as in terms of productivity, and they are crossed with each other. The resulting seeds are then sown in a hybrid nursery with well-cultivated and fertilized soil, where the best plants are again selected. The seeds of the best hybrid plants of different generations are then sown in a breeding nursery, where the progeny of the previously bred plant, which is called the line, is evaluated. The best lines go to the control nurseries for further study and then to the preliminary variety testing of hybrids. Most the best varieties, who passed the test, enter the station competitive variety testing. Here, high-class varieties are usually selected, which are sent to the state variety testing system. If the variety survives the competition in this test, i.e., in certain regions, regions of the country it takes first place in terms of yield and other economically valuable traits, it is recommended for cultivation there and from that moment becomes a zoned variety, i.e. a state variety.
    Most modern varieties are obtained by crossing closely related forms (within the species). However, in our time, the so-called distant hybridization of plants related not only to different types but also childbirth. The scientific foundations of distant hybridization were laid by I. V. Michurin.
    So, by the method of distant hybridization, I. V. Michurin created, for example, a wonderful cherry variety Krasa Severa. He pollinated the flowers of the early Vladimirskaya cherry with the pollen of the Winkler white cherry variety (cherries and cherries belong to different botanical species). Cherries are hardier than sweet cherries, but sweet cherries are larger and contain more sugar. The resulting hybrid plants gave large fruits, while the new variety proved to be resistant to frost and disease.
    In our time, the method of distant hybridization is widely used in the selection of all crops, including grain plants, in particular wheat, rye, and barley.
    With distant hybridization, backcrosses are sometimes used to obtain subsequent generations - hybrids of the first generation are crossed with one of the parental forms.
    Many breeders use in their work the method of complex stepwise hybridization, which is based on a system of repeated crossings. The author of this method is the scientist-breeder A.P. Shekhurdin.
    Valuable varieties of wheat - Albidum 43, Albidum 210, Albidum 24, Steklovidnaya 1, etc. were obtained by the method of complex stepwise hybridization.
    Great success can be expected from crossing cultivated plants with wild ones. Let us give an example from our practice of obtaining wheat-couch grass hybrids. Ordinary wheat has a number of disadvantages: it is not resistant to adverse conditions, it suffers from frost and drought, it is affected by diseases, its grain is mealy.

    Wheatgrass is not afraid of either drought or cold, some of its species are very resistant to fungal diseases. The grain of wheatgrass contains a lot of gluten, valuable for baking. Is it possible, by crossing these two plants, to obtain hybrids that would combine the beneficial features of both wheat and wheatgrass?
    cultivated plants interbreed with wild in most cases with difficulty. Often hybrids of the first generation): are sterile, that is, unable to tie grains either from natural pollination or from artificial application of pollen to the stigmas. In such cases, it is necessary to resort to different methods of overcoming sterility.
    One of the best modern methods in these cases is the polyploidy method. It is as follows. The sprout of the hybrid seed of the first generation is treated with a solution of the poisonous substance colchicine, which, acting on dividing cells, delays the divergence of chromosomes in them and the formation of a cell septa between daughter cells. The result is cells with a double set of chromosomes. They give rise to polyploid shoots or a polyploid plant as a whole. Such polyploid plants are already capable of producing
    seeds. Further, the usual selection work is carried out with them.
    The combination of traits of crossed plants does not occur mechanically. This is a complex biological phenomenon that modern science studying hard. With distant hybridization, a restructuring of the whole organism occurs, often such signs and properties appear that the parents were, as it were, in a latent state. Scientists still have a lot of work to do to understand these complex life phenomena. As a result of complex and lengthy work, wheat-couch grass hybrids of the type of ordinary winter and spring wheat were created. These varieties are successfully cultivated in many parts of the country.
    With the help of distant hybridization, it is possible to create not only new types and forms of plants, but also new crops, for example, perennial wheat, which can produce a crop of 2-3 consecutive years from one sowing. After harvesting for grain, it grows back, and in late autumn it is either fed to livestock in the form of green fodder or harvested for hay. These new plants, not found either in nature or among those cultivated by man, have already been created and are being improved.
    Living nature, in particular the plant world, is constantly changing. This is one of the great laws of life. Using this law, a person can not only improve already existing plants but also to create new ones, such as never existed on earth.
    Breeding, like any science, is enriched from year to year with new methods of breeding varieties. The rapid development of physics and chemistry has put at the service of the breeder the latest technical devices, artificial climate stations, new designs of greenhouses, where you can not only grow plants from various countries of the world, but also set up experiments, breed new varieties and create species, varieties and forms.
    In breeding, radiation, radioactive and chemical substances are increasingly used, with the help of which plants can be changed.
    However, the most fruitful results can be expected only when all these methods are used in close combination with the main breeding methods - selection and hybridization. It is this unity of breeding methods that is the key with which a person will discover new secrets of plants and make them even more useful.

    N.V. tsitsin

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