Hydrangea is a beautiful garden flowers with fluffy multi-colored hats. They are represented by several species: by the type of shrubs up to 3 m high, small trees and vines that can braid a tree up to 30 m in height. Hydrangea will bloom from spring to frost, delighting with its spherical inflorescences. However, there are species in which this time is shorter. - everything about her in the article!

Hydrangea planting rules

You can plant hydrangea in early spring or in autumn. In this case, the first option would be preferable. For hydrangeas, you need to choose the right landing site. It prefers acidic soil with good moisture. As for lighting, these flowers can feel comfortable both in the sun and in partial shade.

The whole landing process can be divided into several stages:

After planting a hydrangea bush, it is better to cover it from sunlight for several days. This will allow the plant to take root faster. Hydrangea can be planted both singly and in groups. In this case, the distance between the bushes should be about 1 meter.

Basic rules for caring for hydrangea

Hydrangea care comes down primarily to proper watering, timely top dressing, pruning and loosening. If you do everything right, then the bushes will be lush, and the inflorescences will be large and bright.

Watering

Hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant that requires frequent watering. It should be plentiful, 15 - 20 liters for each adult bush. In hot weather, this should be done once a week. In hot and dry summers, you can increase up to two times a week. In this case, you need to focus on the condition of the soil, given how quickly it absorbs moisture and dries.

For irrigation, it is best to use settled soft water at room temperature. Periodically, a little potassium permanganate should be added to it, which will prevent the appearance of rot. Hydrangea should be watered in the morning or evening, when it is still not too hot.

top dressing

For good development and lush flowering hydrangea needs to be fed. Both organic and mineral fertilizers are suitable for this. It is especially important to use them during the period of intensive growth. You can buy ready-made fertilizers that are rich in magnesium and iron. Good composition There is top dressing in the form of a solution of bird droppings with water in a ratio of 1:10 in combination with a mineral composition of 20 g, 10 g of saltpeter and 10 g. You can use any slurry as a fertilizer, just follow the measure, otherwise the buds will be too large, because of which fragile branches can break.

It is necessary to fertilize hydrangea not only during planting, but periodically as it grows. The first such top dressing should be carried out at the end of May. It should be repeated after two weeks. You can fertilize flowers throughout the summer, but in August it is advisable to stop feeding so that the shoots can become woody by winter.

Mulching

Thanks to the mulching of the near-stem circle, the roots of the hydrangea will be protected from overheating and the rapid growth of weeds. You must first make an organic mulch consisting of wood chips or. It should be scattered in an even layer around the shrub. This will help make the soil more acidic, which is what hydrangeas need. This mulch will gradually become part of the soil.

It is best to apply mulch under the bushes in late spring, when the soil is well warmed up. It is also possible to mulch in late autumn, when negative temperatures. Periodically, shrubs need to be loosened so that the soil is more moisture permeable.

pruning

Pruning is done on plants that have reached the age of 3 - 4 years. This should be done in early spring - before sap flow and bud break begin. If the procedure is carried out too early, the cut cuttings will be unsuitable for further rooting, and if too late, the plant may die. That is why it is important to prune when the buds just start to swell.

When pruning in adult plants, 3/4 of the height of each shoot should be cut with secateurs. At the same time, 2 - 3 pairs of kidneys should remain on them. Old bushes can be updated at the root. Everything will depend on the condition of the bush or tree. You need to cut off old or frozen shoots. During pruning, you can form a beautiful little tree with a certain shape. In the first year of hydrangea growth, its flowers should be removed, because. this will promote more abundant flowering in next year.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Hydrangea belongs to heat-loving plants, so it must be protected in winter time of the year. Young shoots and insufficiently winter-hardy varieties need special protection. If the bush is very young, you can simply cover it with earth, fallen leaves or sawdust from above. Older plants must be bent to the ground and covered with roofing material or lutrasil. To prevent the wind from blowing it away, you need to press down the covering material with bricks.

Mature bushes require more careful shelter. You have to try not to break them. The bush should be tied and then covered with spunbond or lutrasil, after which a frame can be built around it from a metal mesh or other improvised materials. It should be at a distance of about 20-25 cm from the bush. Free space must be filled with dry foliage. Such an insulated frame will protect the hydrangea well even in severe frosts. You can remove it in the spring, when there is a stable positive temperature.

Reproduction of hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated in several ways:

1. cuttings. Reproduction in this way is best done in mid-spring or early summer. As blanks, it is necessary to use annual lateral shoots. They should be about 10-12 cm long. The cuttings should be cut at a right angle. From below, they need to remove the leaves.
   For rooting cuttings, you need to prepare the soil. For this, a light substrate is used, consisting of fertile land, peat and sand.
   You need to plant cuttings in it, placing them at an angle. Each individual plant should be at a distance of 5 cm from each other. It will take about a month for the shoots to take root.
   
2. The division of the bush. You can breed both in spring and autumn. To do this, the plant must be dug up and divided into several parts so that each individual bush has a renewal bud. After that, the plant is simply planted in prepared places.
   
3. layering. To propagate hydrangeas by layering, you need to select young shoots that will be no more than a year old. They should be bent to the ground and dug in so that a small top of 20 cm remains on top. The next year, the shoot will take root and it can be separated from the main bush and planted in another place.
   
4. Seeds. This is a rather troublesome process, so this method of reproduction is rarely used. Seeds need to be grown at home. To do this, they are planted in pots and only lightly sprinkled with sand. They need to be watered frequently and fertilized as they grow.
   

Popular types of hydrangea

Before planting a hydrangea, you need to decide on the choice of a suitable species. Each of them has its own growing characteristics, which must be considered when planting and caring. The most popular among gardeners are: Hydrangea large-leaved, Hydrangea paniculata, Hydrangea petiolate, Hydrangea tree.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

It will delight with flowering in July-August. Such a hydrangea has bright dense foliage. The shoots of the current year look grassy, ​​which is why the plant has a low cold resistance. Flowers are umbrella shaped. They can have a different color depending on the variety, the intensity of which depends on the acidity of the soil. The more acidic it is, the brighter the hydrangea will be. The height of the bush reaches up to 2 m.

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

Blooms from mid-summer to the onset of cold weather. Inflorescences of this type have a pyramidal shape. They can reach a length of up to 30 cm. Paniculata hydrangea grows as a shrub that can reach a height of 5 m or as a small tree up to 10 m. This species is considered more frost-resistant and unpretentious.

Hydrangea petiolaris (Hydrangea petiolaris)

It is a shrub vine. It will require an additional support, to which it will be attached with air suction cups. In length, it grows up to 25 m. This is a suitable species for planting near arches and arbors. Inflorescences are corymbose up to 25 cm in size.

Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens)

It grows up to 3 meters in height. The flowers are predominantly white or cream in color. There are several varieties of this species, differing in different colors. In winter, the plant can freeze slightly, so it must be carefully wrapped. In April, the bushes need to be severely cut. The flowers grow in large fluffy clusters.

Ground cover hydrangea (Hydrangea heteromalla)

It is also called the Bretschneider hydrangea. This species is considered frost-resistant and unpretentious. The bush reaches 2 - 3 m in height. Inflorescences are corymbose here. At first they are white, and at the end of flowering they become pink. Such a hydrangea blooms in mid-summer.

Recommendations for planting and caring for hydrangea in the garden - video

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Hydrangeas are amazingly beautiful and diverse shrubs.

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In horticulture, hydrangeas are valued for the variety of inflorescence forms, an extensive palette of flowers, large curly leaves, interesting bark, as well as for their unpretentiousness and abundant flowering. An unusually spectacular spectacle of hydrangeas is presented in the fall, when on one plant you can simultaneously see buds, seed heads and leaves of different colors.

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Hydrangea, Latin - Hydrangea, folk - flower-life.

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The botanical name of the shrub - hydrangea - is known only to specialists. Meanwhile, in translation from Greek, it means "a vessel with water" and speaks of a very important quality plants - it loves moisture very much.

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Most of the species are bushes 1-3 m high, some species are small trees, the rest - creepers, climbing the trunks of other trees to a height of up to 30 m.

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Plants can be either deciduous or evergreen., however, the widely cultivated temperate species are deciduous.

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Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. The flowers are collected at the end of the stem in beautiful spherical inflorescences - a shield or panicle.

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In most species, the flower heads contain two types of flowers: small fertile (fertile) flowers in the middle and large sterile (sterile) flowers at the edges. In some species, all flowers are fertile and have the same size.

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The overwhelming majority of hydrangea flowers are white, but some, such as large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink and lilac.

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In these species, the color often depends on the pH level (hydrogen index) in the soil: in acidic soils, the petals become blue in color, in neutral soils they become pale beige, and in alkaline soils they become pink or lilac.

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Hydrangeas are one of the few plants that can accumulate aluminum in themselves, which is released from acidic soils and in some species forms compounds that give them blue hues.

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The main types of hydrangeas

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The total number of species is from 70 to 80; we list here only the main ones.

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Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens).

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A species naturally growing in eastern North America. Inflorescences are white. Flowering in July-August. In late autumn, faded inflorescences are recommended to be cut. Pruning of frozen, thickened and weakened shoots should be carried out either before the start of sap flow, or after the leaves have fully bloomed. One of the famous varieties is Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ with dark leaves and very large greenish inflorescences.

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Bretschneider's Hydrangea (Hydrangea bretschneideri).

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View from China. Large shrub up to two and a half meters high. The leaves are large oval, dark green. Inflorescences are broad corymbs. Blooms from early July; at the beginning of flowering, the flowers are white, by the end of July they turn pink, and in August they acquire a rich crimson color. In the conditions of the European part of Russia, the plant does not require shelter for the winter.

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Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla).

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View from South Japan. The leaves are bright green and large. Lilac inflorescences bloom in August. Winter hardiness is low; in the conditions of the European part of Russia, only some especially cold-resistant varieties do not freeze out, for example, Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Blue Wave’ and ‘Endless Summer’. This species is also grown as a houseplant.

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Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata).

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The natural range of the species is East China, Korea, Japan, Sakhalin. Plants about one and a half meters high. Green buds appear in mid-July, by the end of the month they turn white; flowering - from August throughout the autumn; inflorescences - with a smooth transition from white to crimson and crimson with a purple hue. Hydrangea paniculata has a high winter hardiness. In autumn, pruning of faded inflorescences is recommended, in spring - sanitary and formative pruning. Known varieties are Hydrangea paniculata ‘Kyushu’, ‘Pinky Winky’, ‘Grandiflora’.

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Landing

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Before planting cuttings of Hydrangea arborescens in early April, it is necessary to dig a hole with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 60-70 cm. Next, you need to place a cutting in the hole and fill it with a previously prepared mixture of humus, black soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1. It is also necessary to add 20 g of urea and 30 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. Repeat a similar complex top dressing after 2 years.

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Top dressing with mineral fertilizers or manure can be carried out at the beginning of growth, during the formation of buds and 1-2 times a summer time smaller doses. Plants should be planted at a distance of about 150 cm from each other. Do not place the plant next to trees, as they actively absorb moisture from the soil.

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It is not required to cover for the winter. Thanks to a powerful root system, in case of freezing, the plant is restored to its previous state. It starts blooming at 4-5 years.

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Panicled hydrangea seedlings planted in a permanent place at 4-5 years of age. To do this, prepare a hole with a depth of 35-40 cm, a width of 50 x 70 cm. And for a free hedge, they dig up a meter strip. The distance between adult plants should be up to 2.5 m, but in order to have a “bouquet” earlier, the pits are marked out after 0.7-1 m, and after a few years the group is thinned out. In the northern regions, it is better to plant hydrangea in spring, in more southern regions - in spring and autumn.

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The roots are slightly shortened, and if it happens in the spring, then all annual shoots, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds on each. Plantings are mulched with peat, a compost layer of 5-8 cm. Since autumn, they are fed with mineral fertilizers, and in early spring - with a solution of urea at the rate of 18-20 g per bucket, 2-3 buckets per plant.

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Hydrangea macrophylla relatively photophilous, but it can be planted in light partial shade, however, the less light, the later flowering occurs and the fewer inflorescences. The soil is preferably slightly or medium acidic (pH 5.5); one of the compositions: sheet, sod land, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:1. On alkaline soil, hydrangea suffers from chlorosis (leaves begin to turn yellow). In order to avoid chlorosis, watering with a solution of salts containing iron is carried out once every 10 days.

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Depending on the acidity of the soil, you can change the color of the flowers. With a slightly alkaline reaction of the medium, they are pink, with an acidic reaction they change color to blue or blue. To obtain blue and blue inflorescences, it is necessary to add iron salts and alum to the soil every two weeks: 3-5 potassium alum or ammonia-potassium alum per 1 liter of water. For one plant, 2 liters of such a solution are needed.

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To accelerate flowering, the plant is sprayed twice with an aqueous solution of gibberellins with an interval of 4-7 days at a concentration of 50 mg / l. Then the hydrangea blooms 2-4 weeks earlier. This technique also increases the decorativeness of plants. The flowers are getting bigger and there are more of them. Processing of plants is carried out when the inflorescences reach 2-4 cm. It grows quickly, thermophilic, demanding on soil and moisture, does not tolerate lime. Reconciles with slight shading, low frost resistance (up to -18 ° C).

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Hydrangea serrata "Miyama-kuro-hime"

Easily propagated by dividing the bush and green cuttings. In Russia, large-leaved hydrangea grows in open field only in the south. When cultivating in a greenhouse or in a room at the very end of the growing season, when the hydrangea begins to shed its leaves, the shoots must be cut short. In winter, during the dormant period, the plants are kept in a cool, but non-freezing room (+5 ° C), and at the end of winter, when the buds swell, they are transferred to a warmer and brighter room, but without direct sunlight. Also, this species can be cultivated as a container culture, which is kept outdoors only in the summer.

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Recently, with the development of agricultural technology and climate warming, large-leaved hydrangea began to be cultivated in open ground. middle lane Russia. In garden hydrangea, inflorescences are formed on last year's shoots. Therefore, the main problem is to keep them whole so that the flower buds do not freeze and rot.

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Covering methods are the same as for roses. Among the varieties of garden hydrangea there are more winter-hardy varieties and those that can be grown in central Russia only with the introduction of plants for the winter indoors. Even relatively winter-hardy varieties of garden hydrangea, due to the characteristics of the microclimate, may not grow and bloom in all areas.

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Large-leaved hydrangea bushes tolerate frost better if they receive enough moisture in the fall. Flowers and leaves of large-leaved hydrangeas die even with weak night frosts, so it is recommended to cover them already in the second half of October. You can cover the bushes from short-term frosts with a covering material and a greenhouse film, always in two layers. In winter, the plants are covered with peat at the base, the branches bend down to the ground and fall asleep with dry leaves, spruce branches.

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The soil

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Fertile soils are required for successful abundant flowering.. Hydrangea prefers clay structural soil, it also grows on red soils, but does not like sandy soils.

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By the way, the color of the flowers becomes brighter in the hydrangea paniculata, growing on acidic soil., and on neutral it not only turns pale, but the whole plant has a hard time. Therefore, if the soil on the site is not acidic enough, when planting, it is necessary to add brown peat, coniferous soil (spruce, and preferably semi-rotted pine litter), sawdust. Ash, lime, chalk and other deoxidizers are contraindicated for all hydrangeas. The root system is shallow. The roots mainly spread in width, and as a result, their border significantly exceeds the crown border.

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They need moist soil to thrive. good decision it can be planting ground cover plants in near-stem circles, for example, mossy saxifrage, various stonecrops.

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Growing conditions

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Hydrangea is propagated mainly by herbaceous cuttings from basal shoots. Cuttings from lateral shoots produce weaker plants, so they are avoided.

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Cuttings of large-leaved Hydrangea grown in the house are carried out in February-March (even until April 15). Hydrangeas rooted in February-March can be grown in 4-5 stems, rooted later should be arranged in one stem.

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Cuttings of large-leaved Hydrangea grown in the garden are carried out from June to July inclusive, until woody shoots. Depending on the availability of wiring material, the cuttings are cut with 2-4 knots with a sharp and clean knife. Cuttings with small leaves take root more successfully. You need to cut the cuttings just before planting them. You can not bring the cuttings to wilting.

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In the latter case, withered cuttings should be immersed in water for a while. The leaves are shortened by one third or half.

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Cuttings are rooted in reconnaissance boxes, on racks, in greenhouses. Good results are obtained by rooting cuttings in coniferous soil; the cuttings are not covered with anything, but only often sprayed with water. Rooting cuttings are planted to a depth of 2 cm, but cuttings lower leaves do not sink into the soil. Planting distance 4-5 cm.

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After planting, they should be watered, bearing in mind that withered cuttings of hydrangeas are difficult to restore turgor and take root worse. Wilting of cuttings is very often the cause of poor rooting. Hydrangeas need to be shaded from bright sunlight. Some growers root hydrangea cuttings under glass, but this method often causes the cuttings to rot.

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The rooting temperature is maintained at about 14-17 ° C. Lower temperatures lengthen the rooting period and therefore provide more opportunities for cuttings to rot. When cutting hydrangeas, cleanliness must be observed.

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Rooted cuttings (this usually takes 15-20 days) are planted in boxes or on racks at a distance of 8 × 8 cm or in 7-9 cm pots.

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Growing hydrangeas in pots is uneconomical: more space and labor required. The soil for hydrangea cuttings should be acidic, consisting of swamp and compost soil. If the compost soil does not have acidity, then peat is used. For white, pink and red hydrangeas, slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) is recommended, for blue and lilac - more acidic (pH 4-4.5). With insufficient acidity, the leaves of the hydrangea turn yellow. To avoid this, the soil is watered with a weak solution of sulfuric acid (5 g per 100 liters of water).

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Planting plants in boxes or on racks makes it easier to care for plants, they grow and develop better. The cuttings are watered with water that does not contain lime, which neutralizes the acidity of the soil. Do not use manure that is not completely rotted, which can cause yellowing of the leaves. The same phenomenon can occur from an excess of lime in the soil, since with insufficient soil acidity, hydrangeas will not be able to absorb potassium, magnesium, and iron.

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It is advisable to prepare the soil in the previous autumn or early winter, so that the applied fertilizers can decompose sufficiently. For 1 m3 of soil, 2 kg of bone meal, 0.75 kg of potassium sulfate, 1.5 g of ammonium sulfate are added. Thomasslag and other alkaline fertilizers are not recommended.

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Rooted plants are fed weekly in the spring. full fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen fertilizers. The temperature should be around 14°C. In May, boxes with hydrangeas are transferred to cold greenhouses. Early varieties with a short growth period, which form flower buds faster, are pruned in the first half of June, and late varieties in May. Pruning is done over two pairs of normally developed leaves. These plants will have 3-4 shoots.

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Do not prune plants of late cuttings, as they usually bloom in one cap. To get low indoor plants You need to make sure they don't stretch. The cut tops of the plants are rooted to produce single-stemmed plants. Two weeks before pruning or two weeks after it, the plants are planted in pots in which they should bloom.

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Elongated hydrangeas, when planted in pots, are planted deeper than they sat to reduce their height. Hydrangeas form roots even on lignified stems.

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Single-stem plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm, and two-four-stem plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 12-14 cm. At first, plants in greenhouses after planting are shaded from bright sunlight. After rooting, plants do not need shading: it can even lead to stretching of plants.

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Plants that are still weakly rooted in pots must be protected from heavy rains , so they are not immediately taken out of the greenhouse to the ridges of open ground. All weak shoots of hydrangeas are cut out, since only large hats of flowers are considered decorative.

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Hydrangeas are moisture-loving plants, so they need to be watered and sprayed in a timely manner.. To obtain ornamental plants, hydrangeas are systematically fed alternately with a solution of mullein and a mixture of mineral salts. Early varieties of hydrangeas finish their growth by August, so from this month they stop feeding them and reduce watering, and then even dry them a little to ripen the buds. Late varieties finish growing a month later, after which they are also watered less frequently.

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During the ripening of the buds, the plants are sprayed so as not to cause severe wilting.. In early September, hydrangeas of early varieties are given pre-harvest top dressing, which brings the flowering time closer. In winter, plants are best kept in cool greenhouses, basements, greenhouses.

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With insufficient light, the temperature in the greenhouse should be about 2-4 ° C. In order for the hydrangea to bloom in December-January, it has been provided with additional electric lighting since October. Additional lighting of hydrangeas brings the onset of flowering much closer.

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Hydrangeas are placed under lamps with rudimentary buds and provide additional lighting in winter for 8-10 hours. The best result is observed at night lighting. It accelerates flowering by 7-20 days. Daylight is less effective.

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Under the condition of good natural illumination of the greenhouse, the earliest suspension of growth is carried out in November-December for flowering only in early March. For this, early varieties with well-ripened buds are used. With a lack of light, plants are grown at a relatively low temperature of about 10 ° C, which prolongs the flowering period.

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To accelerate the flowering of hydrangeas, warm baths are used: plants are kept in water at a temperature of 35 ° C for 12 hours. After the bath, hydrangeas are placed in greenhouses with a temperature of 15-16 ° C.

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Good results are also obtained by spraying plants twice at a temperature of 12-14 ° C with heteroacusin.(100 mg of heteroacusin per 1 liter of water). With the appearance of leaves, hydrangeas begin to water more. On sunny days, the temperature in the greenhouse can rise to 20 °C. At this time, you need to carefully monitor that the plants are sufficiently well supplied with moisture. In the greenhouse, hydrangeas should stand freely, without shading each other.

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When hydrangea buds appear, weekly they are fed alternately with mullein infusion and a solution of a mineral mixture with a predominance of nitrogen. The surface of the soil in pots should be loosened. When flowers are formed, hydrangeas are tied to pegs. To obtain exhibition bushes of hydrangeas with large and abundant flowers, the following method can be used.

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Old hydrangeas, cut 25-30 cm from the ground, are planted in the ground so that the root neck is covered with earth. For the winter, plants bent to the ground are covered with spruce branches, dry leaves, etc. In the spring, old stems are cut to the ground. During the summer, multi-stemmed bushes are formed. Plants are watered abundantly.

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Within 5-6 years, you can grow tub hydrangeas with several dozen umbrellas. With an increase in the number of shoots, it is necessary to take larger pots with a diameter: with one shoot - with a diameter of 10 cm, with two or three shoots - with a diameter of 12-13 cm, with a larger number of shoots, pots with a diameter of 15-18 cm are taken. Hydrangea usually has pink flowers. However, in some areas, peat and heather soils cause the flowers to turn blue. The same phenomenon can be caused by the use of conventional alum (25-30 g per 10-12 liters of water), aluminum and iron sulfates. But not all varieties of hydrangea change the color of the flowers to blue.

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The best variety for this purpose is the Blue Prince. Suitable soil for obtaining hydrangeas with blue flowers is turfy land from swampy meadows. The presence of iron and aluminum in this soil gives the blue color to hydrangea flowers. Watering with a solution of alum begins 2-2.5 months before flowering.

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Hydrangea Care

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Lighting: Bright diffused light. In summer, you can take it out into the garden, gradually accustoming it to direct sunlight, and then, when the plants get used to it, the pots are dug into the ground and left until autumn.

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Watering: Abundant from spring to autumn. Hydrangeas love when they are watered when the earth in pots dries up a little, but not allowing the entire earthen clod to dry out. Does not tolerate hard water well.

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Air humidity: spray from time to time.

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Top dressing: Fertilizer dressing is carried out with liquid mineral and organic fertilizers after watering. Feed in summer and at the end of winter before flowering. After pruning, do not feed until new shoots appear.

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Undercut: halfway after flowering.

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Diseases and pests

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Spider mite. It affects the leaves from the underside, causing them to turn yellow and marble, then dry and fall off. At the optimal temperature for the tick (29-31 °C) and humidity (35-55%), the cycle of its development takes 7-9 days. The tick covers the underside of the leaf with a brown cobweb. For a year it gives 12-15 generations. At low temperatures (10-12°C) and high humidity (80-85%), its activity is significantly reduced.

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Control measures: spraying plants with thiophos (5-7 g per 10 l of water).

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Downy mildew. It affects the leaves and stems of hydrangeas. Its first signs are the appearance on the leaves of oily, later turning yellow spots, gradually darkening and increasing in size. A yellowish coating appears below the leaves, the same coating can be on young stems. The development of the disease is facilitated by a temperature of 18-20 ° C and high humidity.

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Control measures: treatment of affected plants with copper-soap liquid (150 g of green soap, 15 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). This liquid is harmless to plants, and its use in the early stages of development helps to completely get rid of the disease.

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Chlorosis. A sign of chlorosis is the lightening of the leaves, only the veins on them remain dark. Plants growing on soils with a significant amount of lime are more susceptible to chlorosis. An excess of humus in the soil also leads to chlorosis.

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Control measures: Pour 2-3 times with a solution of potassium nitrate at the rate of 40 g per 10 liters of water and three days later - with a solution of ferrous sulfate, also 40 g per 10 liters of water.

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Leaf aphid. In closed ground conditions, when forcing plants, hydrangea can be affected by green leaf aphids.

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Control measures: a good means of its destruction is a double spraying of plants with a solution of anabazine sulfate. To do this, 15-20 g of anabazine sulfate is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This serves as a radical remedy in the fight against leaf aphids.

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How nice it is to have such a variegated set of these wonderful flowers in the garden! But the best part is that the hydrangea is not too difficult to care for and in the fall it will be able to please you with an abundance of rich colors and shapes.

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Common in the wild nature of North America, the European south and the Asian continent, hydrangeas are elegant and majestic shrubs that amaze with regal beauty, are increasingly found in Russian expanses in temperate climatic zones.

Hydrangea bush with large fairy-tale hats bright inflorescences, crowning flowering stems - a wonderful decoration for any garden. In culture, hydrangeas are tree-like and paniculate. These are different from each other in the form of inflorescences: the tree-like one has rounded flat caps-umbrellas, while the paniculate ones throw out large long-blooming panicles. Both pink hydrangeas (the photos presented in the article confirm this) are equally magnificent, but our publication is devoted to the tree-like hydrangea, a separate species that is successfully cultivated today and is in great demand.

Species features

The fantastically beautiful pink hydrangea differs from its white-flowering relatives in the rare ability in the plant kingdom to change the shade of the inflorescences, depending on the reaction of the soil on which it grows and the composition of the fertilizers applied under the bush. This happens due to the presence of specific compounds in parts of the plant - anthocyanins, which make the same variety bloom in acidic soil. blue flowers, and in slightly alkaline - pink.

This deciduous shrub, growing to a height of 1 m with straight basal shoots, oval leaves with a serrated edge and a pointed tip, is compact and decorative. Hydrangea tree-like pink with flowers connected in large, umbrella-shaped inflorescences, begins flowering from mid-summer, which continues until the onset of cold weather. The composition of inflorescences is remarkable, the center of which is occupied by smaller fruit-bearing flowers, and around the circumference - barren, but larger ones.

In a landscape gardening interior, hydrangea is equally beautiful in ensembles, groups and solo plantings, it looks spectacular as borders or hedges delineating paths. With exquisite beauty blooming hydrangeas in any park ensemble play a major role. Long flowering, juicy greenery and compactness of the shrub are important components in the overall decorativeness of the plant and its popularity.

How to grow pink hydrangea

The current opinion about the excessive capriciousness of this is highly exaggerated, because, like any plant, hydrangeas require care. Following certain agrotechnical rules that are acceptable for this particular crop is not particularly difficult. Only if all the recommendations and advice of experienced gardeners are followed, the hydrangea will generously endow fireworks of pink and purple colors every year. She also has preferences, which you need to know about in order to create the most comfortable conditions for the productive development of the bush.

Planting a tree hydrangea: choose a place

The first step in the boarding process is to choose optimal location: hydrangea does not recognize frequent transplants, it is difficult to survive them and bloom poorly. Therefore, before planting, you should choose a permanent place where the existence of the shrub will be most productive.

But the soil for such a plant as pink hydrangea is suitable for any, but fertile acidic clay soils are most preferable. In areas with a similar composition, the general decorative effect of the bush is high and the flowers are brighter and larger, and in order for the seedling to become such, peat, rotted sawdust or coniferous soil are added to neutral soils before planting.

Shrub also reacts to light. Pink hydrangea is one of the rare plants that do not claim to be the sunniest places in the garden. Moisture-loving hydrangea in such areas will suffer from a lack of water, and the bright sun will not allow the enviable beauty of the bush to fully manifest itself. On the contrary, the average illumination, even the shading of a site protected from a through wind, will be the best option for planting a plant, since these are its biological features. In hydrangeas planted in partial shade, the duration of flowering increases significantly. An excellent alternative is under the shade fruit trees on the south side of the trunk.

Landing Rules: Ground Preparation

Experienced gardeners recommend planting hydrangeas in spring or early autumn. A shrub is planted, maintaining an interval between plants of 1-1.5 m. A planting pit is prepared in advance: they dig a recess 50 * 40 * 40 cm in size, mix the excavated soil with humus, river sand and peat, add 35-40 g of superphosphate and urea .

Fill the hole with this mixture by a third and allow the soil to “settle”. The seedling is placed in a hole, the roots are carefully straightened so that they do not bend up and fall asleep with the remaining prepared soil. Tamp the ground around the seedling carefully, trying not to trample down with your feet, as you can damage the roots and significantly complicate the engraftment of the seedling.

Watering and loosening

The pink hydrangea, the planting of which is completed, must be generously watered with settled soft rain or melt water. This shrub throughout the spring-summer season needs abundant watering, preferably combined with sprinkling. The biological features of the hydrangea are such that, with a very high aerial part, its root system grows horizontally, immediately feeling a lack of moisture during dry periods. Therefore, regular watering is vital for the shrub. In summer, he should receive 25-30 liters of water every 5-7 days, although moisture is adjusted, focusing on the weather conditions of the region.

So that the earth under the bushes does not seize with a crust, loosening is carried out, cultivating the area around the bush with a radius of 50-60 cm. Over the summer, the soil is loosened several times, simultaneously removing weeds. The depth of loosening is no more than 5-8 cm, since the roots of the plant are located close enough to the surface of the earth. A good alternative to loosening and weeding is mulching with humus, peat, or plant residues. This saves the grower a lot of time by keeping moisture under the shrub and preventing weeds from breaking through, but you need to be sure of the quality of the mulch. Often, pests or bacteria that provoke infections and diseases are brought along with it. This possibility should be anticipated and excluded.

Top dressing: fertilizers and trace elements

In the first year after planting, the plant is not fed, since the hydrangea has enough supply of nutrients that have been added to the planting hole. The next year, in the spring, complex mineral fertilizers are applied under the bushes at a concentration recommended by drug manufacturers. The best fertilizers for pink hydrangea are organic. Until mid-summer, fermented mullein infusion can be used as nitrogen supplements, which is prepared as follows: 3 liters of water are added to 6-7 kg of manure and the mixture is left for fermentation for 3-4 days. 1 liter of infusion is dissolved in a bucket of water and the hydrangea is watered once every 10-15 days. Responsive to high-quality organic matter is not only tree-like, but also pink, which is quite reasonable, since the plants belong to the same family.

In the absence of organic top dressing, mineral fertilizers are quite suitable, the most suitable of which for hydrangeas are superphosphate, carbamide, and in the second half of summer, urea nutrition is stopped, leaving phosphorus-potassium to strengthen the plant for wintering. The frequency of fertilization is as follows: the first time - in the spring, the second - when the buds appear, the third - in the fall. The rapid growth of shoots is ensured by feeding the plant with a weak solution of manganese, which is carried out in early summer. Fertilizers containing lime and phosphorus will maintain the excellent pink color of the buds.

Shrub care in winter conditions

Pink hydrangea, the care of which is not burdensome, has good frost resistance, but it should still be covered for the winter. Spruce spruce branches are recognized as the best material for this, on top of which lutrasil or spunbond is laid - non-woven polymer material, which does not allow the plant to rot. Previously, the plant is spudded, raising the earthen roller by 20 cm, sprinkled with peat and then covered. This is especially true for young bushes.

Hydrangea has an excellent ability to recover quickly after freezing, however, it is necessary to preserve it during a difficult period, since such tests weaken the plant and affect flowering, which becomes rather scarce.

Bush shaping and pruning

Hydrangea treelike pink is an ornamental plant and its appearance directly depends on quality care. The main care activities include pruning. Like many leafy shrubs and trees, hydrangeas require formative and sanitary pruning. In early spring, cut out old, diseased, broken branches in the winter or thickening the bush. Since the hydrangea loves semi-shaded places, the issue of thickening is acute: the lack of sufficient light and high humidity can provoke the occurrence of bacterial or viral infections in a dense overgrown shrub. Therefore, crown rarefaction is so important: for productive development, each branch must receive enough sunlight. This is the role of sanitary spring pruning. At the same time, the crown of the bush is formed by shortening one-year-old shoots so that 5-6 pairs of growth buds remain on them.

The second time in the season, the hydrangea is cut in the fall after flowering, removing dry inflorescences, broken stems and small shoots that have appeared.

Old, but productive bushes that have grown and begin to lose shape can be rejuvenated in autumn by cutting all the stems to a height of 20-30 cm. Fresh shoots will appear the next year.

Reproduction of hydrangea by layering

Most in a simple way obtaining a new bush of tree-like hydrangea is the instillation of a layer, that is, the stem of an adult mother plant. The procedure is carried out as follows: in the spring, the shoot is bent to the ground, laid in a pre-prepared groove with humus, and fixed with metal or wooden pins. Top layering sprinkled with soil. Necessary condition rooting - constant moistening and periodic (2-3 times per season) addition of earth. The layering will give roots and get stronger, and by the next season it is dug up, separated from the mother bush, and the resulting seedling is planted in a permanent place, having prepared the soil, as indicated above.

From a rooted seedling, a young pink hydrangea is soon obtained, the cultivation of which is absolutely identical to the care that an adult plant requires.

Vegetative propagation: cuttings

The pink hydrangea is easily propagated by cuttings. Experienced gardeners recommend taking cuttings from cut shoots during the spring formation of a bush or cutting them in early summer from the apical parts of shoots of a non-flowering (uterine) bush or stems that did not have time to open buds. Sometimes they take lignified shoots, which are cut in the cold season, rooted at home and planted in the summer already grown seedlings of a shrub called pink hydrangea. Planting and care subsequently carried out are the same as for adult bushes.

The length of the cuttings should not be less than 15-20 cm. Cuttings cut from young shoots of the current year at the beginning of summer found a high survival rate. On each cutting, carefully, without damaging the buds, cut off the lower pair of leaves, and the lower cut should be 1.5 cm from them. The cuttings are prepared for planting as follows: they are kept for 10-12 hours in a solution of any rooting biostimulant, for example, Kornevin or Epin, controlling the concentration, according to the annotations to the preparations. Then the cuttings are planted in seedling containers filled with a neutral substrate, deepening by 3-4 cm. The lower buds of the cuttings from cut leaves should be in the soil, since they will give the first replacement shoots.

Boxes with planted cuttings are covered with foil and installed in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Once every 3-4 days, the cuttings are watered and aired, slightly opening the film cover. Cuttings take root after 3-4 weeks. They are planted in a permanent place with prepared fertilized soil and cared for, helping to survive in the cold. First-years must be covered for the winter, having previously spudded and fallen asleep wood chips or peat.

The division of the bush

There is another very effective method of propagating a plant such as pink tree hydrangea. The photo introduces the reader to the division of the overgrown bush. Do this in the spring, carefully digging the bush around the circumference. The soil is carefully shaken off the hydrangeas removed from the ground, the root system is washed under running water, inspecting the roots and removing damaged and rotten ones, then the bush is divided into parts with a sharp clean knife, each of which should consist of above-ground stems and healthy roots with several growth buds. Slices are treated with pharmaceutical greenery or garden pitch.

The resulting delenki are planted in the planting pits prepared as mentioned above, spilled with water with the addition of "Heteroauxin" or "Kornevin" to minimize stress, covered with soil and gently tamped.

Hydrangea pink: problems and solutions

Usually proper care provides excellent decorative bush and generous flowering. It is the flaws in caring activities that often lead to problems, for example, novice gardeners are wondering if pink is. The main reasons here may be a lack of water, improper planting, a too sunny area, or over-fertilization, which caused an intensive increase in green mass to the detriment of budding. A detailed analysis of the operations performed will allow you to understand the cause and eliminate it.

We tried to talk in detail about how to care for pink hydrangea in the garden, the requirements of the plant and the main stages of care. Exact adherence to the recommendations and advice will allow you to avoid problems in growing shrubs and enjoy the beauty of its long flowering every year.

Hydrangea is a worthy decoration of any garden, its spectacular bushes will close an unsightly structure or fence, and will become the central link of any composition. Hydrangea in the Moscow region is one of the most grateful plants. Minimal care is needed, it does not require shelter for the winter (with the exception of large-leaved), but blooms for about two months.

Planting hydrangeas in open ground

Hydrangea is one of those crops whose proper planting allows you to pay minimal attention to plants in the future. The main thing when planting hydrangeas in the ground is to properly prepare the soil and the planting hole.

Soil for planting hydrangeas

All types of hydrangeas work well on acidic soils, on peat. Therefore, I prepare the soil on the basis of peat, to which I add two buckets of compost, half a glass of kemira and 1 tbsp. superphosphate. If it is possible to collect sphagnum moss and pine needles in the forest, the hydrangea will be grateful. I cut moss and pine needles with scissors 3-5 cm each and mix with the soil.

planting hole for hydrangeas

For planting, I dig a hole 70 * 70 * 70, put drainage in the form of broken bricks, expanded clay or sand with stones at the bottom. If groundwater is not close, you can do without drainage. If the soil on the site is not peat, then a slightly larger landing pit is prepared. If there is clay on the site, the boundaries of the pit are laid out over the entire depth with a layer of double roofing material so that the clay does not tighten the peat.

Planting time for hydrangeas

Hydrangea tolerates the transplant so calmly that it can be planted throughout the season until mid-August. Once you can pamper the hydrangea with organic fertilizer. Mulching will help retain moisture and nutrients in the soil for a long time.

Planting hydrangea seedlings

Hydrangea is planted so that the root neck of the seedling is at the level of the soil, without deepening. Before planting, I soak the seedlings for a day in a solution of sodium humate for a day so that the pot is completely immersed in water. This technique helps plants to absorb water and not lack it during adaptation in a new place.

If the seedlings are packaged, you need to carefully examine the roots, straighten them, cut off dry or rotten ones. In seedlings with a closed root system, the roots must be torn apart by hand or with a chopper, otherwise they may not want to leave the store substrate.

Hydrangea Care

Hydrangea is not demanding in care. Basically, it needs shading from the scorching sun and timely watering.

Hydrangea care after planting

After planting, hydrangeas need abundant watering, and if a sunny place is chosen, shading from the sun is necessary in the first 2 weeks. To do this, you can install arcs and throw a non-woven fabric over them, leaving the butt on the south side open for ventilation.

Hydrangea care in spring

In the spring I spend mulching with compost with the addition of sphagnum and pine needles. At the end of May, I feed all types of hydrangeas with herbal infusion in a ratio of 1/10, I pre-irrigate with water so as not to burn the roots. I don't do any more dressings.

If the hydrangea develops slowly, you can carry out foliar top dressing on the leaves with the same infusion of the herb. Foliar top dressing is carried out after the root one, so that the roots can provide nutrition for active vegetation.

Hydrangea care in summer

In the heat, the bushes need abundant watering, usually I spend 2 buckets of water per adult bush. A large-leaved hydrangea planted in the sun on hot, sultry days requires watering twice a day.

Hydrangea care in autumn

In the fall, I water with a solution of superphosphate so that the young shoots ripen properly, this is especially important for large-leaved hydrangeas.

Hydrangea pruning

Hydrangea pruning is a must. Depending on the purpose of pruning, it can be done in spring, summer, autumn and just before winter. The timing and degree of pruning will depend on the type of hydrangea. Large-leaved, paniculate and tree hydrangeas have their own pruning rules.

Hydrangea pruning dates

Hydrangea inflorescences are able to persist until frost, so pruning is started either immediately after frost damage, which may already be at the very beginning of autumn, or after flowering, but no later than early October. This is done with paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas, they are pruned in the fall, due to the fact that they bloom once.

Large-leaved hydrangeas bloom continuously throughout the season, starting from mid-June, so they are pruned as the peduncle dries.
In the Moscow region, hydrangeas are pruned after flowering, usually in mid-September.

Proper hydrangea pruning

With pruning, it is better not to delay, the timely removal of inflorescences stimulates the blooming of new lush peduncles. In large-leaved hydrangea, only one inflorescence is cut in front of the second leaf. Such pruning is carried out both in summer and autumn, while maintaining the maximum length of the stem, on which flowering buds of the next year are formed.

Formative pruning is important for paniculate and tree hydrangeas. It can be combined with pruning of inflorescences if it is carried out in late autumn.

Pruning hydrangeas in spring and autumn

Early formative pruning, done immediately after flowering, is not recommended, it can cause active vegetation, which is undesirable before frost. Formative pruning is carried out either in early October in the conditions of the Moscow region, or in late April - early May. During such pruning, small branches are completely removed, as well as branches growing inside the bush. During pruning, make sure that the bush retains a rounded proportional shape. When pruning for lush flowering, only skeletal branches are usually left, the branches of an adult bush can be painlessly shortened by 20 or even 30 cm. The lower branches that touch the ground are also cut off.

Young bushes are cut in the spring to a strong bud, as a rule, these are 3 and 4 buds from the end of the branch.

Sometimes gardeners ask if the inflorescences of paniculate and tree hydrangeas need pruning before winter. Such pruning is really needed, because a significant amount of snow sticks to the left inflorescences, as a result, the branches break and the bush loses its decorative effect.

Hydrangea, planting and care - are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to illness and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, you need to properly care for the shrub after planting in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the ground thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn - in the month of September. When choosing a place for a decorative leafy plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, as the bright sun causes slow growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangea can be grown in open sunny areas, but this requires abundant watering. It is desirable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and high winds. It is not recommended to place under trees that absorb water heavily.

The soil for hydrangeas should be well-drained and moist, consist of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand (2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil adversely affects development. The soil should be with a Ph level of approximately 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas in open ground

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangeas in open ground in the spring, in the southern regions, including the Kuban, the procedure is also carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a planting hole for a beautiful shrub, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and a depth of 0.4-0.5 m. When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if it is too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo

It is necessary to bring the prepared soil mixture into the pit and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root neck, which should be flush with the soil. A slight penetration is acceptable, but not more than 20-30 mm; a too deep landing can subsequently lead to neck rotting.

The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well compacted. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to a depth of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.

Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also keeps weeds from growing and protects the roots from overheating. As a mulching material, peat chips, wood chips or bark are used, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulching is best done in late spring, when the ground is warm but still damp.

watering hydrangeas - pictured

In order for the shrub to grow well and please with abundant flowering, garden hydrangeas are fed when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - the first days of June. Use mullein solution or chicken manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium nitrate and urea. Subsequent feeding of hydrangeas is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to lignify by the winter.

For strong and flexible shoots, ornamental shrubs are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate of a faint pink color. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which are necessary for the plant.

mulching hydrangeas with wood chips - pictured

Paniculata hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover predominantly have pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly determined by the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and raspberry in color; on acidic soils, the hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline soil, the shrub is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color under the hydrangea, rusty metal cans should be buried.

Hydrangea pruning - continue to care

Do I need to prune hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that the pruning of large-leaved, serrate, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved hydrangeas is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut old branches and weak ones, to strong buds.

Pruning paniculate and tree hydrangeas involves removing old and faded shoots, which are also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners do not recommend removing a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. The main branches, as a rule, do not touch, cut only those that are bad and grow inside the bush.

autumn pruning hydrangea - pictured

You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but preferably in autumn, as sap flow slows down, and cutting will help lush flowering in spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.

Hydrangea pruning for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them winter without surgical intervention, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all complicated, will surely please its lush bloom if you suddenly decide to grow unpretentious plant in your garden.

Gotensias: related photos

We describe the planting and care of hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step by step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: place, soil, distance and depth

The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and enough moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Landing place

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in sunny and open space but strong sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she loves diffused light very much.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light penumbra, in this case it blooms later with fewer flowers. The presence of sunlight in the morning, in the first half of the day is very important. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum level of acidity is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of the inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by a light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with an iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a can, a horseshoe).

When planting, a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers is prepared.

soil mix

Compound: humus, turf land, leaf land and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (chernozem), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. As well as nutrients: 20-25 grams (table + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruces and pines grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban - lime, chalk and wood ash.

landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row ( hedge, "mixborder"), then you can dig a trench 90-110 cm wide.

If you want to achieve earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years thin out the bushes if necessary.

landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

planting depth

The root neck should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm below, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole right size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare the potting mix and backfill the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling on the cone of the soil mixture at the desired depth and straighten the roots. Gradually backfill the hole and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Cover the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in a cold climate is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its efforts to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle to retain more moisture. Scatter sawdust, peat, needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you can not feed them for the first two years. General rule fertilizing until July acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's need for nutrients is high as it grows quickly and blooms powerfully.

1. Comprehensive nutrition for growth. In early - mid-May, feed with complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 g) of urea + 25-30 g of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 g) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat top dressing after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus top dressing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid top dressing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 g of superphosphate and 41-49 g of potassium sulfate in water and water the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous top dressing at the time of mass flowering to prolong it and ensure the laying of new flower buds.

• For top dressing, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers are well suited for heather species and rhododendron.
• Do not allow an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April-May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangeas

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is every 13-16 days 15-25 liters of water, and if it is rainy in summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in autumn reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in autumn, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.

It is better to water in the morning or in the evening in the near-stem circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Proper hydrangea pruning: spring and autumn

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can be carried out only from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is that as soon as the buds swell a little, there is no active movement of juices, plus such cut shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be cut, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, cut every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems under the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

• Petiole hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)

These species that bloom on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid-end of March (as soon as the snow melts). Annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea arborescens wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative shape of the bush, weak and inward-growing shoots are pruned.
2. Hydrangea paniculata needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Adviсe

• To thin out the bush, completely remove old, weak and inward-growing shoots annually.
• Cut frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune hydrangeas for the winter?

In autumn, faded inflorescences are cut off from the hydrangea without fail so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.

stamp form

Panicle hydrangea has the ability to grow in the form of a tree - a low trunk. Choose one of the most developed shoots on a two-year-old plant grown from the apical cutting, and cut the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are pruned annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of paniculate hydrangea

Hydrangea care in autumn and preparation for winter

After flowering, autumn care for hydrangeas consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Tree-like hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Strip, the Moscow Region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig out the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in those parts where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the section - “pruning”.
• In more southern and warmer regions, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and decay.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangeas die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid-late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculata and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, a bush is spudded with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush put a box (box).
3. After the end of spring frosts (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter (“hut”) above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter Hydrangea shelter for the winter The top layer of winter shelter for hydrangeas

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In autumn, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, then the flower will begin to rot. Leave only the flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all the branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic band, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). Bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the onset of cold weather (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any nonwoven fabric(burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the shelter and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not pruned, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or spud with earth and additionally cover 11-16 cm for the winter with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust.

When can I open hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, rake the peat or earth and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and stable heat sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

Approximate terms for the Moscow region are indicated.

Winter hardiness of hydrangea

Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.

The plant withstands up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are tree-like, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of the plant increases if it received enough water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus top dressing.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (often indoors).

1. HOW TO FIGHT POWDER DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, PRODUCTS AND FUNGICIDES.
2. HOW TO FIGHT APHIDS? FIGHT RULES AND THE BEST DRUGS!

Why is the hydrangea not blooming in the garden? What to do?

We list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during the active growing season (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter cold and are sometimes removed when over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to cut it correctly - the “Pruning” section.
3. Too much direct sunlight. Ambient light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up the flowering of hydrangeas?

To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences are 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil, and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to carefully use them. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

• If you want to dry the hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after the blooming of all the flowers. Tie in small bundles and hang down with flowers in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home, as pot culture. In autumn, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out on open air and leave until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the trunk circle: stonecrop, saxifrage mossy and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HYDROANGIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDENSIA WITH PHOTO AND NAMES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

The garden blooms with unusual colors in spring, and this continues until autumn. This hydrangea blooms endless summer and gives pleasure with its appearance and aroma. Planting a garden hydrangea and caring for it in the open field will not require special knowledge and costs, because it grows and reproduces beautifully. And if you select varieties by color, size, combined with other plants, you will get a lot of pleasure for the whole summer. Hydrangea is recognized as the queen of the garden!

When to plant hydrangea: mastering the rules of planting

When choosing this flower as a backyard decoration, you will not need complex and time-consuming pruning procedures, greenhouse wisdom. The most important thing is to choose the right place for planting, water abundantly and fertilize on time. Hydrangea should be planted in open ground in a sunny and calm place. This flower does not like shaded places. Landing in open ground should take place in the month of May or September.

How to plant a hydrangea to get a lush bush

At the site of planting, hydrangeas dig a recess in the ground half a meter deep and about 60-70 cm in diameter. When planting and growing several bushes in the garden, a distance of about one and a half meters should be laid between them. The plant, if properly cared for, grows and occupies a decent area. The recesses fall asleep special composition, consisting of 1 part sand, 1 part peat, 2 parts soil, 2 parts humus. Add fertilizer containing urea, potassium sulfide, superphosphate and humus.

It is important! Do not add lime to the mixture for feeding the roots of a flower - this will destroy a fragile plant.

When planting a bush, it is not necessary to deeply deepen the root neck - it should be slightly below the surface level. The plant requires abundant watering.

Beginners are often interested in what year the bush blooms after planting. We answer: when competent landing and caring for hydrangea, it will bloom the next year. But in the first season, it is recommended to cut off the flowers so that the plant gains strength, grows and gets stronger for the next flowering.

How to care for hydrangeas in the garden

This is an easy care plant. The main activities are reduced to abundant watering, periodic loosening of the soil around the bush, weeding and fertilizing on schedule. If you mulch the bushes with sawdust or peat mixture when planting, then you will not have to water often. Peat and sawdust retain moisture for a long time, which is sufficient for the development of a closed root system.

Perennial shrub requires competent pruning. Prune it before the start of the growing season. Pruning hydrangeas in the garden is necessary to get rid of old shoots, leaving young and vigorous ones. Fresh shoots need only be shortened to 4-5 buds. Withered inflorescences periodically remove. Bushes planted on the site 5-7 years ago should be cut to stumps, which will then give strength to new shoots.

How to plant a hydrangea: mastering top dressing and fertilizers

Planting hydrangeas in fertilizer-rich soil will allow the first 2 years not to worry about fertilizing and top dressing.

Then the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in the open field suggest the following:

• in the middle of spring, phosphorus-potassium and nitrogen-containing fertilizers are required at the base of each bush;
• it is necessary to feed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate for the second time in the season during the swelling of the buds;
• over the summer, this honey plant is fed several more times with a solution of cow chicken manure.

It is important! An excess of nitrogen in root feeding can affect the color of the inflorescences to a pale green tint.

About methods of reproduction

Along with other shrub perennials, this miracle shrub propagates vegetatively using cuttings, dividing the rhizome, rooting layering and sowing seeds.

When propagated by cuttings in the middle of summer, young shoots not yet covered with bark are cut off and rooted in a special turf. The composition of the soil includes coarse sand and peat. It is advisable to add crumbled mossy sphagnum to the soil for greater looseness and moisture retention. Planted cuttings with a slight slope every 5-6 cm and strictly monitor the temperature (+ 17 + 20C) and humidity. After a month and a half, shoots with roots are planted in the chosen place for planting and provide all of the above care activities.

When dividing a bush, it is important that young shoots have 3-4 buds. The rhizome is carefully divided, and the shoots are planted in a place prepared in the garden.

Hydrangea propagates in the garden with the help of layering: young shoots with common bush pressed to the ground in a place where a hole was dug in advance (up to 20 cm), and added dropwise. For a tighter connection, the elastic shoot is sometimes fixed with staples. To speed up the process of root formation, it is recommended to cut the shoot slightly in the area where it will be buried. The new formation needs abundant watering. As the roots develop, the connecting link is cut, and the young bush is planted in the place allotted to it.

About possible diseases and pests

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests. But it is also susceptible to infection. Downy mildew, chlorosis, appearance spider mite and leaf aphids are the most common ailments of garden hydrangea.

Have the leaves lost their natural color, become lighter? This is chlorosis, which develops due to an excess of lime or humus in the ground. Add potassium nitrate, copper sulfate to the watering, and alternate these two solutions after two days on the third.

Downy mildew appears if the air humidity is high. Processing the leaves of the plant with copper sulphate with the addition of laundry soap will help get rid of the disease.

Garlic tincture is not capable of overcoming the army of aphids. It is prepared as follows: garlic (200 gr.) is crushed and infused in a bucket of water for 2 days, then laundry soap (40 gr.) is added. This solution is sprayed onto the bushes once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.

Varietal and species classification

The plant is rightfully considered a favorite of all other country garden flowers. A long flowering period of 4 months until October, a variety of shades and forms of inflorescences give this plant an excellent image and make it desirable for owners. country houses, dachas, designers who successfully use the advantages of shrubs in creating landscapes.

The flowers are shaped like balls or tassels, the petals are white, lilac, red, pale pink and even two-tone. The most popular in the Moscow region, and throughout the country, is a tree-like form. This bush is unpretentious, easy to care for and propagate, it is recommended for breeding even for beginners. Up to 30 varieties of this flower are known. But the most popular among land owners are varieties:

• "Anabel" is a bush with a lush color, reaching a height of up to 1.5 m. Its snow-white spherical inflorescences bloom from the beginning of summer and bloom until September. Stays green until winter. Adapted to the conditions of our winters, does not require insulation.
• "Grandiflora" has large snow-white flowers, flowering period from June to October.
• Sterilis, with its hemispheres of pale green and white from mid-summer to October, cannot fail to please homeowners with lush color and aroma.

• "BellaAnna" is a novelty among other varieties. The flowers are in the form of balls, hydrangea bushes in the garden grow up to 3 m in diameter. It happens with pale pink and purple flowers, the flowering period is until October.

• "Invincibel Spirit" is attractive with a delicate pinkish tint of petals.

Paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas are very popular. Their flowers have an original shape, bloom for a long period, and can change color. The plant is frost-resistant and endures even the most severe winters in the north of the country. These include varieties:

• "Vanilla Fraise", which has delicate white-pinkish petals;
• "Limelight" blooms only in autumn, the flowers are large, delicate lemon shade;
• 'PinkyWinky' is attractive with pale red petals.

Hydrangea in landscape design projects

Excellent compositions are constructed by modern designers using various shapes and colors. Considering the climatic conditions of the territory of Russia, professionals advise choosing varieties of tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangeas for planting.

Experts do not advise using flowers in compositions with yellowish, red, orange hues. Plants blooming in pale blue, conifers, leaves, cereal family, juniper, clematis will successfully highlight the advantages of bushes.

This plant is deservedly recognized as the basis of a beautiful garden. With good care and cultivation, the hydrangea will be a treat for the eyes for many years.

Garden hydrangea planting and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

Garden hydrangea - types and varieties

There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are those that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period are very different and depend on the variety.

The most common types:

• large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers may vary in color. Height - 2 m. Requires shelter in winter, tolerates temperatures up to -10°C
• Chereshkovaya. Liana variety. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will spread along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
• Treelike. Flowers are snow white. Height - up to 3 m. It looks very impressive, but it freezes in winter. The advantage is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires heavy spring pruning.
• Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. Bush height - 3-4 m. Unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

Based on these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type of hydrangea, they can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first version.

Growing features

Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream hue. Soil with a high alkali content gives the flowers a pink or lilac color, acids - blue.

Bright lighting is very important for a shrub, but the scorching sun's rays are detrimental to it, as well as a deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime, and the rest of the time - the sun.

It is important not to overfeed seedlings with organic matter. They will grow green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Landing in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.

Site and soil preparation

The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well-drained. Acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, flowers can grow in partial shade or full sun. The best place for planting - light penumbra, plants will not bloom in strong shade.

The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If a group planting is planned, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the pit, mixing well with the ground. The next layer is poured a little peat.

How and when to plant?

Landing is done in early spring or autumn. It depends on the climate of each region. In cold areas, it is better to plant bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in the spring, then annual shoots should be shortened by at least 3 buds.

In a seedling, it is desirable to slightly shorten the roots. When planting, you need to make sure that the root neck is not covered with earth. The planted bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat. When watering, make sure that a strong stream of water does not wash away the soil near the roots.

As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of forming new roots is in full swing.

phantom hydrangea care

Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculate family. It blooms profusely throughout the season with long panicles and exudes a pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring a transplant.

Watering and feeding

"Hydrangea" in Latin means "yearning for water." The flower is very moisture-loving, so in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and plentiful. Once upper layer the soil dries out a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, as the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.

Watering - the best time for feeding. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilizer, during the budding period - potassium and phosphorus.

It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring and summer, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground to improve aeration.

How to transplant and prune?

The plant tolerates pruning well. If it is not cut, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring, when the buds swell. If the bushes are too old, they can be easily updated by cutting them almost to the root.

All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:

• To the first category includes those species and varieties whose flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year (petiolate, prickly, large-leaved, serrated). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
• To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require heavy pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.

When the hydrangea is about to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely next year. Formative pruning of the bush for 5 years will help to get a beautiful little tree.

Phantom hydrangea should be transplanted only in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, a transplant is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and planted in other places.

Flower care in autumn

Caring for garden hydrangea in autumn consists in pruning inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that suddenly falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes should be high up, and the ground around them should be well mulched. This will protect the superficial root system from frost.

How does hydrangea winter?

In the conditions of the middle zone, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for safety, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is removed for the winter in a room with a positive temperature, as severe frosts can destroy it.

Sometimes the bushes are neatly tied, wrapped with spunbond and a mesh frame is built near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry foliage. With the first breath of heat, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature is established.

How does garden hydrangea reproduce?

The easiest way to propagate hydrangea cuttings. They are cut in spring from annual green shoots. Cut at a right angle. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. Leaves are removed from the lower part, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.

A good option is to propagate the flower by division. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts, so that each has several renewal buds. Blanks are planted in pre-marked places.

Also without special efforts Hydrangeas can be propagated by layering. Young shoots are carefully bent to the ground, fixed and dug in with earth, leaving the top (about 20 cm). Already next spring or autumn, layering with roots can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.

Sometimes the shrub is propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too time-consuming methods. Knowing how garden hydrangea breeds, you can choose the appropriate method in advance and do it in a timely manner.

Protection against diseases and pests

Hydrangeas rarely get sick, while the lion's share of the disease is transferred with seedlings. For this reason, you need to buy new plants only in proven nurseries. Other causes of disease are overcrowded plantings, lack of nutrients and high humidity air.

Many fungal diseases can be combated with copper oxychloride.

One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to the lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. For treatment, drugs Agricol, Brexil are used. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.

Use in landscape design

Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group. You just need to design in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow strongly, and they need a lot of space.

A flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located on the north side of the house. When choosing companion hydrangeas in a mixborder, you need to take into account their features. Similar requirements for moisture, lighting and soil acidity in astilba, hosta, cuff. If the plot is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their sprawling shape will create an expressive accent in the garden. Often these shrubs are used to limit garden areas.

Hydrangeas are well suited to different styles of garden decoration, so everyone can grow them.