How to properly plant a bulbous houseplant. Caring for bulbs after flowering and storage conditions for bulbs

Most bulbs need to be transplanted. According to its frequency, three groups of plants are distinguished. Let's figure out together which horticultural crops and at what time should be transplanted.

First group

This group includes bulbous plants that do not overwinter in the ground. They are planted in spring and dug up in autumn. These are perennial plants, but they will simply die in conditions middle lane Russia or to the north, if they are not dug up. Classical representatives - gladioli. More rare are acidanters, montbrecia, crocosmia, galtonia, tigridia, nerine. I’ll make a reservation right away: montbrecia, crocosmia and galtonia winter in the middle lane with many gardeners, but no one can give an absolute guarantee that they will survive. To risk or not is up to you. Such plants are dug up as late as possible (until stable frosts begin) so that the bulb gains as much strength as possible before wintering. And they plant either immediately to a permanent place when the soil thaws, or even earlier - in the house for seedlings and transfer to open ground as soon as possible.

Second group

This group includes classic plants - tulips, hyacinths, imperial hazel grouse, which winter in the pound, but need to be dug up annually. More exotic, but sometimes found on sale Persian hazel grouse, r. Rudde, r. Modest, r. Severtsova (Korolkovia). This includes a number of representatives of the onion family, for example, the karatavek onion. All these plants are dug up annually, since their homeland is dry and hot areas and the bulbs need strong warming up to lay a flower bud or just in a dry period. If the bulbs are not dug up, tulips (especially fringed and parrot) may not form beautiful flower. Hyacinths will worsen flowering, and a number of varieties will simply die. Imperial hazel grouse, depending on the variety and location, may bloom annually without digging, or maybe not.

Third group

The group includes plants that do not require annual digging: all small-bulbous, daffodils, botanical tulips. But their frequency of digging is very different. Let's look at a classic example - daffodils. Their bulbs can grow without a transplant for up to 5 years. In the first year, they will not bloom if the bulb is dried out during storage. And then the daffodils will gain strength, and you will come to the peak of flowering; for the fourth year. Then it will weaken and a transplant will be required. This plant withstands transplanting well even in bloom, but the classic planting time is the end of June and the beginning of September. Many will say that they planted daffodils much later. There are many such examples, but we are talking about the classic recommended landing time.

A little about everything

Colchicum grows in one place for 5-6 years. An earlier transplant is carried out if you need to separate the baby. But a transplant to more late dates in principle, it is possible, but then the bulbs become smaller and bloom worse. In this case, digging takes place in June, and planting - in August. A little missed - and you will plant with flowers.

Most crocuses have a very good division ratio and should not be kept in one place for more than three years. They will not stop blooming, but the quality of flowering will suffer. Crocuses are dug up at the end of June, planted in September - October.

Kandyks are rare guests in our gardens and each species requires its own approach. Often found k. hybrid ‘Pagoda’ breeds well and needs to be planted every 3 to 4 years. Varieties of k. European (dog canine) are also divided every 3 to 4 years. But our Siberian and Caucasian k. reproduce very poorly as children and therefore can grow in one place for 5-10 years. But they give self-seeding. However, before flowering, these species grow for 5 - 8 years. Digging is carried out at the end of June, this is especially critical for the Siberian, Caucasian and European varieties, later the bulb becomes brittle and breaks easily. Planting is best done immediately - within a week, otherwise there is a danger of overdrying the bulb.

Most types of hazel grouse can not be transplanted for years - they give few children and feel great. But such widely known as R. chess or r. fox-berry, not bad to sit down every 2 - 3 years. Otherwise, flowering will weaken. Digging at the end of June, planting in September - October.

To each his own time

It is better not to keep the poultry farmer umbrella and p. drooping in one place for more than 3 years. Other species may stay in one place longer. Digging at the end of June, planting in September - October.

Most ornamental bows need to be dug about once every 3 years. They dig after the foliage has died off, for a number of species this is July or even later. Planted in September - October.

Bulb flowers are those types of plants whose bulb is an independent bud. It is inside the bulb that leaves and other plant organs are laid, which will then develop.. There you can also see a small bottom with the embryos of the root system located in it - the roots will grow immediately after you plant your flower in the ground.

For such flowers, the bulb is a reservoir of nutrients and water, which allows them to be independent of the season. So at proper care your greenhouse can bloom both in summer and winter. All flowers are divided into two groups:

• having a dormant period, which can endure this time without planting in the ground (tulips);
• species that shed their green part at certain times of the year (hemanthus).

The most famous bulbous home flowers: crocus, juno, gladiolus, lilies, anemones, tulips.

Bulbous indoor flowers: care and proper planting

Almost all plants of this type prefer light and coolness, negatively perceiving waterlogging of the soil. If you decide to carry out the work yourself, then it is desirable that it be carried out in the autumn. Pay close attention to the bulb itself: it should not be damaged, wrinkled and loose, which may indicate the presence of a disease.

Despite the healthy appearance, the material should be disinfected, for which it is better to use a 1% manganese solution - put the onion in a container for half an hour and fill it with a solution. It is important to choose the right pot for planting: its height should not be more than its width. If you choose too large a container, as many inexperienced gardeners do, this can lead to the fact that the plant will either develop poorly or die altogether.

Important: it is best to buy porous clay pots with thin walls, but you should not buy glazed containers.

We lay out a drainage layer (small stones or gravel) at the bottom, only then you can fill the soil with a layer whose height should not exceed 7 cm. We mix the earth, using additives for bulbous plants. Next, we plant the material for planting and sprinkle it halfway with earth. We put the container with the future green pet in a cool place, watering a little with water. Only after the first shoots appear, the flower can be transferred to a bright place near the window.

How to make your plant healthy?

Like all types flowering plants, bulbous prefer top dressing using nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers. After the bud fades, and the leaves begin to die, it is necessary to reduce watering, and himself planting material leave in container. In this state, the plant should be until March - until the moment when it again begins to produce stems.

You need to water the flowers very carefully, because they cannot stand waterlogging - because of this, they can get sick with a fungus or pick up infectious diseases. This is especially true for varieties such as Dutch hyacinth. Naturally, if you want to get beautiful flowers next year, you must follow a few important rules:

• bulbs should not be stored in a damp room where they can rot;
• do not store bulbs with fruits in the refrigerator, as some fruits emit ethylene, which is harmful to plants;
• bulbs are best stored in sand or peat moss;
• make sure that there is no draft that can blow through and freeze the planting material;
• if you have pets, make sure that during storage they do not gnaw future flowers.

Only with proper care and maintenance, bulbous indoor flowers will delight you with their brightness, beautiful buds and fresh aroma.

indoor plants transfer it is done to improve nutrition (the soil in the pot is depleted over time), as well as to better aerate the soil in the pot.

But before transplanting a plant, you need to make sure that it needs a transplant, and also pre-purchase or make an earthen mixture that meets the requirements of the transplanted plant. How to determine by the external signs of a plant whether it needs a transplant?

A transplant is a must:

1. The first sign of a transplant may be cessation or slowdown in plant growth. Some plants show signs of frailty, the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, the leaves turn pale, fall off. The reason for this can be not only a small pot or depleted soil, but also pests, for example, enchitreus, centipedes, earthworms, bevel larvae.

2. The plant has grown strongly and the pot has become unstable, the aerial part outweighs the root.

3. An earth lump is so permeated and braided with roots that it has turned into solid felt. The roots began to crawl out of the pot through the top or drainage hole.

4. During irrigation, water is very poorly absorbed into the soil. This may mean that the root system of the plant has completely occupied the volume of the pot.

5. The plant began to disappear - the leaves wither and turn black. In this case, transplantation is an ambulance for a dying plant. This most likely means that the roots have already begun to rot and die.

6. If watering is too abundant, when the soil in the pot does not have time to dry out, it turns sour. To improve the soil, as well as to save the plant from the development of root rot, you need to transplant.

9. In variegated forms of indoor plants, green leaves appear on all shoots or with a very pale color. The reason for this may be not only a lack of light, but also depleted soil.

Young, fast growing plants, for example, blue passionflower, dracaena, chlorophytum, tradescantia, arrowroot, alocasia, sheffler, calathea are transplanted annually, large tub plants need to be transplanted once every four to five years, palm trees require transplantation once every five to ten years. If the plant is already an adult, then a transplant can be done once every two to four years, based on the conditions of detention and the requirements of the plant, being content in the intervals between transplants with a partial replacement of the top layer of soil.

When is the best time to repot houseplants?

Transplanting is best tolerated by plants in the spring. when all parts of the plant come out of dormancy and begin to grow. It is at this time that the transplanted plant quickly adapts, the root system will quickly recover and will absorb moisture and nutrients from fresh soil. During transplantation, add a few hydrogel granules to the earth mixture.

Transplantation is done in March-April, sometimes in May, based on when the plant goes from dormancy to growth. Tender plants are transplanted later. In May, it is recommended to transplant poinsettia so that it blooms in December. However, a plant that has already begun to grow will not tolerate a late transplant associated with damage to the roots. Plants, blooming in spring, such as clerodendrum, are transplanted after flowering.

In warm rooms, transplanting of indoor plants begins to be done earlier than in cold ones.

In summer, plants tolerate transplanting worse., a autumn, and especially winter, transplant is betternot to do healthy plants, but fast growing houseplants, such as asparagus, tradescantia, chlorophytum can be transplanted throughout the year, avoiding damage to the roots. This transplant is called transshipment, as it is made without damaging the earthen coma.

Starting in September, transplanting plants that have a dormant period in winter should be avoided.

In summer, after spring growth, conifers are transplanted. In June-July, at the end of the first growth, camellias are transplanted. Bulbs are transplanted at the end of flowering.

The exception is plants that were planted in the garden for the summer. Anyway, let me give you some advice: indoor plants planted for the summer in open ground desirable transplant in august when the temperature outside and in the room is the same. This makes it easier for plants to adapt, and the root system is still able to absorb enough moisture, so the risk of flooding the plant is much less.

Throughout the year, you can transplant indoor plants just purchased from the store. This is, so to speak, a necessary measure. If the transplant is done correctly, then the plants will practically not suffer and after a while they will feel much better. Also throughout the year, you can transplant diseased and disappearing plants. If they are not transplanted, then they can simply disappear.

It is better to wait with a transplant if your plant has gained buds or is already blooming. You should not transplant, even if the houseplant is very crowded in a pot, just try to compensate for the lack of soil with nutritious dressings. If you take a chance and transplant a flowering plant, then it will receive severe stress, all buds and flowers will wither and fall off, after such stress the plant recovers for a long time.

Therefore, wait until the plant has faded, the plant will have a dormant period between flowering. During this period, the transplant will not harm the plant, on the contrary - expect new flowers soon.

How to transplant indoor plants

Complete transplant- this is the movement of a plant from one flower pot to another, larger in size, or the same one, if it is suitable in size, with a complete replacement of the earthen mixture. With a complete transplant, all the old land is removed due to the complete uselessness of the land.

Incomplete transplant- when part of the earthy coma remains on the roots of the transplanted plant.

Sometimes, if a transplant is not possible, you can do partial replacement of the top soil in a pot or tub.

In order not to damage the root system of the plant during its transplantation, thoroughly soak the soil in the pot beforehand. After a few minutes, once the water has run out, carefully turn the pot upside down and, holding the plant with one hand, gently tap the bottom of the pot. This is usually enough to get the plant out of the pot.

But sometimes there are difficulties: if the pot is clay, then the roots can stick to the walls of the pot. In such cases, you will have to break the clay pot. If the pot is plastic, then you can cut the bottom with a pruner or use a knife. Carefully, trying to damage the roots as little as possible, separate the earthen ball from the walls with a knife, only in this case, damage to the roots, alas, cannot be avoided.

At big plants growing in tubs, first knock down the hoops, and then carefully separate the wooden parts of the tub.

Now carefully inspect the root system: you need to cut off only damaged, dry, sluggish roots, roots with dark brown spots. These are diseased roots, they need to be cut back to a healthy white or yellowish tissue. It is advisable to treat all sections of large roots with crushed coal to prevent their decay.

Try to unravel the tangle of roots formed at the bottom of the pot. A mesh of tiny roots or felt that cannot be untangled must be cut with a sharp knife. You can prune a little the roots that crawled out into the drainage hole and do not fit in a new pot, pruning small roots provokes their growth, and as you know, it is these small roots that absorb nutrients from the soil and nourish the entire plant.

If the plant has a fibrous root system, then when transplanted into a new soil, thin roots will quickly recover, and the plant will quickly recover after transplantation. The roots are also pruned when transplanting bonsai, in order to maintain the balance of the root system with the deciduous crown.

When transplanting plants with thick or underdeveloped roots, extreme care must be taken, since such roots not only cannot tolerate pruning, but even the slightest damage to them.

Orchids, acacias, palms, bulbous, some conifers, cyclamen, hedichium, chlorophytum, cacti, succulents require very careful handling during transplantation.

After the roots are in order, take a new pot. If the plant is young, then you need to take a slightly larger pot for it, but not by much, since most indoor plants grow better when they are cramped.

Sick plants, on the contrary, are transplanted into smaller pots. In this case, all the earth in the roots is cleaned, the roots are washed with water, the diseased roots are cut to a healthy tissue, sprinkled with coal powder and planted in a light, permeable earthen mixture. Flower pot after a diseased plant, it must be disinfected before you start using it.

Don't forget about a drainage layer of 3 to 5 cm. Fill the pot with fresh earth mixture to one quarter of the pot. The composition of the soil mixture must meet the requirements of the transplanted plant. If you are transplanting a large plant - a tree or shrub, then you need to take care of the stability of the pot.

Add more river sand to the earth mixture: this is the heaviest material that can be used without fear of harming the plant. Since the plant is large, the next transplant will be in 4-6 years, and the sand will not allow the soil to cake, it will remain permeable, and keep the roots of the plant from waterlogging and decay. Ideally, you can focus on the following rule: the mass of the plant should be one third of the mass of the pot with earthen mixture, only in this case the pot will be stable.

Then place the plant so that it is centered in the pot. The transplant will be correct if the upper part of the old earthen coma is 1-2 cm underground. Carefully pour the earth mixture between the roots into the pot. Compact the soil with your fingers, leaving no voids around the roots.

By the way, a less dense planting contributes to better plant growth, a more dense compaction of the earth in a pot contributes to better flowering. But in practice, a rather loose fit is usually obtained. Palm trees require dense planting.

It is not necessary to fill the pot with earth to the top, leave the sides free, otherwise the water will pour out of the pot when watering, and it is more convenient to take the pot. After that, water the plant with boiled settled water.

If you started replanting plants, then bring the matter to an end, otherwise the excavated plant begins to dry out under the influence of dry air, quickly fades, which adversely affects the survival of plants.

After transplantation, if possible, create the greenhouse effect plant: put in a greenhouse or simply cover with a plastic bag to create gentle conditions for the transplanted plant. Transplanted plants shade from direct sunlight, it is advisable to observe high humidity air in the room.

Start the first top dressing no earlier than two months after transplantation. There are enough nutrients in a fresh earthen mixture, and if you add additional fertilizers, you risk burning tender young roots that have just begun to grow.

Very large plants growing in large tubs find it difficult to repot or repot every year, and sometimes repotting is not possible at all. In such situations, you can do a partial replacement of the top layer of the earth mixture.

To do this, remove upper layer potting soil as much as possible and replace it with a new, nutrient-rich soil mix. Such an operation can be done twice a year - in spring and autumn. Without it large plants they might just die.

Under the name of bulbous flowers, only those plants are meant in which the bulb is an independent bud of the plant. The main difference between bulbous plants and all others is that it is in the bulb that a certain number of leaves are laid that will develop in it. On one side of the bulb, you can see the bottom with the rudiments of future roots located on it. These roots will begin to grow as soon as the bulb is planted in the ground. For indoor bulbous plants, the bulb is a reservoir of water and nutrients that enable the plant to be independent of the season and bloom when the grower wants it: in spring, autumn or even winter.

All flowering bulbous houseplants are divided into two groups:

• plants that have a dormant period;
• plants that partially shed their leaves at certain times of the year.

Plants of the first group can endure a dormant period even without land, for example, tulips, lilies, daffodils. And the plants of the second group need to reduce watering during the period of weakened vegetation: these are, for example, clivia, hemanthus.

Planting bulb houseplants

Bulbous indoor flowers love light, coolness and do not like waterlogging of the soil. If you want to buy bulbs for planting, then it is best to do this in the fall. When choosing a bulb, pay attention to its appearance: it should look strong, healthy, not be loose or shriveled. Before planting, all bulbs must be disinfected with a 1% manganese solution for 30 minutes. The height of the bulb pot should be equal to its length. In too large pots with a lot of soil, the bulbs will not develop well and may even become sick. The most suitable pots for planting bulbs are thin-walled porous clay pots. Moreover, the walls of such a pot should not be glazed - this is important.

At the bottom of the pot it is necessary to lay out a layer of drainage - small pebbles, expanded clay or gravel. And on top you can lay a mixture of moss and charcoal. And only then a layer of earth about five centimeters is laid. The earth should be light and well fertilized. Plant a bulb in a pot and sprinkle it with earth about half the height of the bulb. A pot with a planted bulb is placed in a cool place on the windowsill. It is not necessary to heavily water the bulb.

When sprouts appear, the pot must be transferred to a bright window. During the flowering period, you need to water more often, but do not flood the plant.

Caring for bulbous houseplants

Like any flowering plant, all bulbs love regular feeding, consisting of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus.

After the plant has faded and the leaves on it begin to die off, the bulb should be left in the pot, and watering should be reduced to a minimum. And in this state, the bulb will be until spring, when the leaves begin to grow again. Some bulbs, such as tuberous begonia, cannes, are stored in moist peat. And they land in pots just before the start of the growing season.

Care should be taken when watering the bulbs, they do not like excessive moisture, with its excess they can even rot. This is especially true for Dutch hyacinth bulbs.

Rare exotic bulbous houseplants are very popular today. Along with amaryllis, hipperastrum and eukomis, the bulbous class includes the amazing sandersonia, leader and roscoe. Sandersonia orange flowers resemble small Chinese paper lanterns. The plant blooms in late summer with red or yellow flowers, raised to a height of up to 70 cm. But the unusual flowers of the radiant leader resemble flying cranes. Roskoya is a kind of flower, very similar to wild irises.

A number of advantages - winter flowering, wonderful coloring of flowers and their amazing smell - make bulbous houseplants one of the most popular with all flower growers.

They are called bulbous because of the peculiar underground stem - the bulb, in which the plant stores nutrients and water for future use for its growth and development. In addition, the bulb is used for propagation.

The bulbs are pear-shaped and formed by fleshy juicy scales. Cutting the bulb lengthwise, you can see the rudiments of future leaves, which are placed near the flower arrow.

The number of leaves of a bulbous plant is strictly determined by the number of these primordia, so you can’t thoughtlessly cut off the leaves of a flower.

Planting and care features of bulbous

For planting bulbous plants pot selection is very important.

It is best to choose a container made of lightly baked clay with thin porous walls that are not glazed from the inside; by the way, you can make it at home without special equipment.

The size of the container is selected based on the size of the bulb. The pot is chosen correctly when 1.5 cm of free space remains on each side from its walls to the plant. Bulbous plants do not like waterlogging., so there must be a hole for draining water.

The diameter of the pot should be equal to its height.

For landing use common substrate for flowering plants, not forgetting to make drainage: lay a layer of expanded clay or broken brick on the bottom of the pot.

In addition, to provide the plant with a good outflow of moisture and at the same time facilitate the flow of air to the roots, pots with plants can be slightly raised above the surface of the windowsill.

Bulbous flowers develop well, being in a bright, but not hot room. Optimum temperature content during the growing season 20-25 degrees.

They prefer moderate watering., they love melt or rain water, but ordinary tap water, which has been previously settled for a day, is also suitable. Water temperature - room temperature.

Bulbous plants respond well to fertilizing with liquid fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Feed them only during the flowering period. and growth, once every two weeks.

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A feature of the successful cultivation of this type of plant is to provide them with a dormant period. The rested bulbs will begin to form leaves with renewed vigor, and the plants will bloom regularly and profusely.

For every kind own wintering conditions, but, in general, it all comes down to stopping fertilizing, reducing watering and storing the bulbs in the substrate at a temperature of at least 10 degrees.

propagate bulbous with the help of daughter bulbs, separating them from the mother plant and planting them separately.

Types of home flowering bulbous plants and flowers

. A native of South Africa. The bulb of amaryllis is round in diameter and averages 4-5 cm in diameter. It has long, narrow, up to 50 cm, dark green leaves.

On a long bare peduncle there is an umbrella of several (up to 12 pieces) large funnel-shaped fragrant flowers of red, white or pink color.

When planting, it must be taken into account that the bulb should be only half immersed in the substrate, otherwise the plant will not bloom and may die.

You can propagate the plant by separating the so-called children during transplantation - small daughter bulbs.

Often confused with amaryllis.

This flower comes from the arid regions of Central America, so it practically does not need spraying.

Outwardly very similar to amaryllis, the main difference is a hollow flower arrow, on which a maximum of 7 large bright flowers are formed.

nice- The plant also belongs to the Amaryllis family. The bulb is small, about 12 cm in diameter.

Hymenocallis blooms from July to October. At the end of flowering, he needs to arrange a dormant period: keep the plant at a temperature of 10-12 degrees without watering and fertilizing.

With proper care, experienced flower growers achieve bloom twice a year.

or upstart- the plant is completely inconspicuous for most of the year. But during the flowering period, it strikes the imagination with flowers similar to a large crocus.

Most often grown plants with white and pink inflorescences. It has a small bulb, only 3-4 cm in diameter, completely immersed in the substrate. The leaves are narrow, thin.

The peduncle usually has one flower, about 4 cm in size.

If several plants are planted in a pot at once, then the zephyranthes will look more magnificent.

Crinum- a large perennial, with a large bulb up to 25 cm in diameter, half protruding from the ground.

The plant itself has light green leaves up to 1 m long. Like all bulbs, it loves bright diffused light and Fresh air, therefore, in warm weather, it is advisable to ensure that he stays on the balcony.

Blooms from August to September large, about 7 cm, pink flowers collected in inflorescences of 6-12 pieces.

– unpretentious plant with a long lifespan. With proper care, it can live up to 40 years.

Leaves are broad and dark green.

During the flowering period, an arrow with bright orange flowers emerges from the middle of the plant.

Eucharis- the birthplace of this plant is Mountain Colombia. Translated from Greek, the name of this flower means "pleasant" and "full of grace."

Eucharis has large curved leaves, oval in shape, sitting on long petioles. Period it blooms in February - March, blooms with white flowers, arranged in 8-10 pieces on a flower arrow.

The buds open in turn and stand for 8-10 days each, so eucharis flowering is quite long. When planting, it is advisable to deepen the bulb somewhat so that the neck is covered with earth.

Diseases and pests of bulbous plants

Most often, flower growers complain that their favorite plant does not bloom. The main reason for this is the lack of a necessary and properly organized rest period, during which the flower gains strength.

Bulbs are often affected various types rot. The reason for this is always excess moisture and getting it on the bulb.

In this case, emergency measures will help save the plant. The plant is taken out of the ground, the bulb is cleared of dead and affected scales.

Then, the bulb is dried for 5-7 days, and sprayed with a solution of foundationol. Planting in the substrate is carried out in such a way that the entire bulb, except for the roots and bottom, remains on the surface.

Until complete recovery, the plant should be watered sparingly.

Bulbs are often affected by whitefly, amaryllis mealybug, and others.