Concrete pavement around the house how to do it right. What is the blind area of ​​​​the foundation and why is it needed

The durability of a building depends on the condition of the foundation, the health of which is determined by the reliable and efficient removal of surface water from the house at all times. This task is performed by the blind area, which primarily has a protective function. One of the most common and affordable is the technology of arrangement concrete blind area around the building. Its correct design, created by oneself, will effectively perform the functions for many years.

What does it represent?

The blind area is an outdoor plinth waterproof concrete structure in the form of a continuous path along the perimeter of the building, having an inclination from the wall towards the surrounding relief of the adjacent area. Its arrangement involves a dense, but movable connection to the basement of the house.

The structure is a layered "pie" of materials that together keep the foundation dry. The basis of such protection is in proportion: a compacted even underlying layer of sand (crushed stone, clay), waterproofing and coating - concrete, which ensures the waterproofness of the structure.

Functions performed

Properly equipped blind area provides longevity to the structure, preventing the destruction of the foundation and structures of the house by rainfall moisture, melt water. A do-it-yourself blind area without concrete is a temporary measure that does not solve the whole range of tasks of such a design.

The main function of the correct blind area is to divert and transport water a sufficient distance from the foundation to the side to the lowest place on the site or in storm sewer.

In addition to the function of a horizontal hydraulic barrier, the blind area (especially insulated) reduces the freezing of the soil around the house, which reduces the likelihood of swelling (lifting), and also reduces the thermal conductivity of the building. A blind area without concrete does not prevent the periodic moistening of the soil close to the foundation and, as a result, the harmful effects that hard plant roots can cause. The protective device also gives the building an aesthetically finished look and can be used as a walkway.

Blind area requirements and device rules

Scheme of the construction device using reinforced concrete.

The encircling protective structure must have the same width, the value of which is 20–30 cm greater than the projection of the roof cornice beyond the wall of the building. It is generally accepted that it is about 1 m (or more on subsiding soils). The blind area is deepened no more than half the depth of soil freezing in the area. Thickness concrete pavement is selected within 7 - 10 cm (up to 15 cm if used as a track).

The recommended coating slope is 92 - 94 degrees relative to the wall of the building (or 10 - 100 mm per 1 meter of blind area width). The height of the plinth above the blind area at the junction of the structure is set at 50 cm. Its outer lower edge should be raised about 50 mm above ground level, which prevents water from accumulating at the edge. The technology for creating a structure assumes the possibility of its integral movement following the deformations of the soil relative to the foundation, which provides a wall.

How to make a blind area?

Marking is done on the ground, the fertile layer of the earth is removed. The underlying (clay) is laid. Geotextiles are laid (for example, roofing material). Formwork is formed taking into account expansion joints. The area is reinforced. Concrete for the blind area is prepared in the correct proportion and poured into the formwork. The surface of the coating is displayed with the selected slope along the edge of the formwork and leveled. The concrete is given time to dry.

Preparation of tools and materials

The quality of the markup is checked by the building level.

For excavation, you will need shovels, a pick, twine, tape measure, rammer, pegs. The required amount of geotextile (waterproof film) for the water seal should be calculated. Required in the right amount and proportion of components for mixing concrete (washed sand, water, gravel, crushed stone fractions of 5 - 10 mm, cement) or (for example, brand M400 and higher). The tools also include a mixer (container) for the formation of a solution, buckets, carts (stretchers), a measuring bucket. The laying of the underlying layer must be provided in abundance with sand (clay).

The formwork is formed from boards, but a hacksaw, level, nails, hammer are also useful. (steel wire), which should be delivered. You will need a welding machine, a tool for cutting pieces of reinforcement. Laying and leveling concrete will help a long rule, trowel, spatulas. The device of seams will require a polyurethane sealant.

A trench is marked around the house with pegs and a tow line. The level of adjoining the blind area to the basement is marked with beacons in increments of 1.5 m. Layer fertile soil is removed around the building, taking into account the layout of the surrounding surface. The bottom of the trench is compacted and leveled with an already formed slope (herbicides can be applied). The depth of the excerpt can be up to 500 mm (on heaving soils).

Creation and compaction of the sand cushion

Do-it-yourself trench bottom is lined with sand, the surface of which is also profiled with a slope. The material is abundantly moistened and rammed. The operation should be repeated at least two times. The layer thickness can be up to 20 cm. Its surface is carefully leveled.

The use of rolled waterproofing materials for the blind area.

Its device involves laying two layers of waterproofing (for example, roofing felt) on a sandy substrate, which are slightly wrapped onto the wall to create an expansion joint. At the joints, the material is overlapped. Further, the geotextile is covered with a thinner layer of sand, and then with gravel (about 10 cm thick) with a slope of the upper layer and rammed. It is advisable to place a drainage system close to such a water seal.

Formwork creation

A removable wooden form encloses the place of pouring concrete. It is reinforced with strong pegs from the outside. The form provides for transverse expansion joints (every 2 - 2.5 m), which are installed, among other things, at the corners of the formwork diagonally. Their tightness is formed by wooden blocks (butyl rubber tapes) placed on the edge, impregnated with oil and covered with bitumen.

The edges of the form must be even for the rule to apply. The difference in its height should correspond to the slope of the blind area. The height of the formwork corresponds to the thickness of the concrete. The expansion joint at the wall (width 10 - 20 mm) is filled with roofing material (hydro-swellable cord).

Reinforcement and pouring

The process of pouring the blind area of ​​the house with concrete.

A metal mesh 50x50 (100x100) mm is used, which can be linked to pieces of reinforcement hammered into the base in increments of 0.75 m. The mesh rises 30 mm above the level of crushed stone. Concrete is kneaded and poured with your own hands in portions in the formwork section to the level of its upper edge.

There must be no air pockets in the concrete. Correct Proportions concrete mix for blind areas for frost resistance must comply. The composition of concrete for the blind area is traditional (the corresponding grade is from M400 and above). To the solution in proportion, you can add components that increase strength, durability.

Even the strongest foundation is exposed to moisture over time, which gradually reduces the load on the drainage system of the house, as well as on vertical waterproofing. To prevent this from happening, do-it-yourself concrete blind area is performed, the step-by-step instructions of which will be discussed in the article.

The concrete pavement is required coverage to protect the foundation

In addition to its main function (protection from interaction with moisture), this coating also allows you to arrange a pedestrian zone around the perimeter of the house and give the architectural appearance of the building a complete look.

However, before pouring the blind area, you need to pay attention to its design features and requirements for construction objects of this type.

blind area design

The concrete pavement has quite simple design, for the preparation of which you will need the following materials:

1. Bedding (pillow). It is performed before pouring the solution. As a bedding use the most different materials: coarse or medium sand, sand and gravel mixture, crushed stone, fine gravel. On the fine sand the blind area of ​​​​the foundation does not fit due to the likelihood of shrinkage, since in this case there is a risk that the base will crack. It is best to prepare a two-layer pillow: first lay gravel or crushed stone, which will compact the soil, and then sand.
2. Reinforcement. The presence of a reinforcing mesh for a concrete blind area will give the structure more strength. The mesh size of this product is usually 30 x 30 or 50 x 50 cm. The mesh diameter should be about 6-8 mm, but it all depends on the type of soil.
3. Formwork. Wooden guides located along the perimeter of the coating are required, as they will prevent the concrete mixture from spreading. The width of the formwork boards, as a rule, is 20-25 mm.
4. Concrete solution. Filling the blind area is carried out using a certain composition of the concrete mixture.

The brand of mortar must be carefully selected, since the strength and durability of the entire structure will depend on its quality and characteristics. For such a coating, Mixture M 200 is usually used, the strength class of which is at least B 15 (a higher grade can also be purchased). It is also worth paying attention to the frost resistance of the composition, which should not be less than F 50. To ensure better resistance to drops temperature conditions, it is recommended to give preference to compositions with an indicator of F 100.

To obtain quality coating, it is most profitable to make a concrete mix on your own.

We make concrete mix for the blind area at home

To organize a concrete pavement around the house, it is not necessary to buy a ready-made mixture and order an expensive delivery with a concrete mixer. Knowing the proportions of the components, you can make concrete M 200 yourself, this will require:

• 1 part cement (optimal is Portland cement 400);
• 3 parts sand (better than medium, but fine-grained is also suitable);
• 4 parts of coarse aggregate (gravel or crushed stone);
• ½ part water.

Accordingly, to get 1 cubic meter of concrete, you need to mix:

• 280 kg of cement;
• 1100 kg of crushed stone;
• 800 kg of sand;
• 190 liters of water.

Also using PC 400, you can get other brands.

Healthy! First of all, cement and water are mixed, and only after the composition has turned out to be homogeneous, sand and gravel are added to it.

In order for the construction of the blind area to be strong and the concreting to be durable, certain rules and requirements are provided.

Design requirements

To fill the blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house with concrete, you must familiarize yourself with the regulations and recommendations of SNiP:

• The width of the blind area should be 20 cm more than the roof overhang (SNiP 2.02.01-83). If the structure provides for a drain, then its indicators are also taken into account. The optimal value is 1 meter. In this case, you can lay out a tile path around the house.
• The length of the do-it-yourself blind area around the house should correspond to the perimeter of the building. However, if you plan to install a concrete porch, then a "gap" is acceptable.
• Depth. The level of penetration of the "tape" is half the estimated depth of freezing of the earth.
• The thickness of the concrete blind area is also regulated by SNiP and, according to these requirements, should be at least 7-10 cm for the top layer. However, many make concreted parking spaces for private cars along with the blind area. In this case, the operational load increases, and the thickness of the concrete blind area can reach up to 15 cm.

• bias. According to SNiP III-10-75, the slope should be from 1 to 10 cm per meter of width. Most often, it is 2-3 cm per meter - this is approximately 2-3 degrees. The angle of inclination must be directed in the direction opposite to the foundation. Increasing the slope is not recommended, as in this case it will be difficult to walk along such a path in winter time when ice forms on the surface.
• Border. The device of the blind area at home does not include the mandatory manufacture of a border, therefore, in this case, the decision is made by the owners of suburban real estate. However, experts recommend installing such "limiters" if trees and shrubs with an "aggressive" root system (blackberry, raspberry, plane tree, poplar, and others) grow near the foundation.
• Plinth height. For hard cover type (concrete) plinth should be at least 50 cm.
• The recommended height of the blind area above ground level is 5 cm or more.

There are also several schemes according to which a crushed stone blind area can be erected, in the form of a monolithic concrete coating, both for the usual type of soil, and for the “problematic” one.

Knowing the requirements of SNiP and features suburban area, you can make a blind area with your own hands using step by step instructions below.

We make a blind area on our own

The blind area device technology includes several stages that even a beginner in construction work can handle.

Training

In order to start creating a protective coating around the house, prepare:

• pick;
• twine;
• roulette;
• tamper;
• pegs for marking;
• waterproof film (geotextile);
• concrete mixture;
• formwork boards;
• hacksaw;
• level;
• nails;
• reinforcement material, welding machine and wire cutters;
• as a rule, trowel, spatula;
• sealant for processing seams (it is better to purchase a polyurethane composition).

markup

The arrangement of the blind area around the house begins with the preparation of the area for construction. At this stage, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future "tape", or rather a trench for it, with the help of a peg. There are several recommendations in this regard:

• The step between the beacons is 1.5 m.
• The depth of the trench will depend on the soil, but the minimum value for this value is 0.15-0.2 meters. If the earth is "heaving", then the depth increases to 0.3 m.

The easiest way to apply markup is to act in the following sequence:

1. Drive metal or wood pegs into the ground in the corners of the house.
2. Install intermediate beacons around the perimeter of the building.
3. Pull the cord or rope, connecting all the pegs.

Healthy! Sealant can be used at this stage to separate the protective coating from the foundation.

After that, the slope of the system is formed, for this a trench is dug, in which the depth of one of its sides will be greater. To compact the resulting ditch, it is enough to use a tree. First, the log must be placed vertically, lifted and sharply lowered down with effort. Due to this, the bottom of the trench will be compacted.

formwork

For formwork, you will need boards on which it is better to immediately mark the height of the future pillow. Fasten the impromptu "box" in the corners metal corners(bolts on the outside).

Important! If you do not want to remove the formwork, after the concrete blind area is completed, be sure to treat the tree with an antiseptic compound and wrap the boards with roofing material.

Creating a pillow

In order for the concrete pavement to be made according to all the "canons" of construction, it is imperative to prepare a sandy or clay base for it. The thickness of the sand layer can reach up to 20 cm. It is best to lay the pillow in several layers, moistening and carefully tamping each subsequent layer. At the final stage, the surface must be leveled.

Waterproofing

A waterproofing device involves laying several layers of roofing felt or other geotextile on a pillow.

1. The material needs to be “wrapped” a little on the walls in order to get an expansion joint.
2. Roofing material must be overlapped.
3. A thin layer of sand is poured over the geotextile, and then 10 cm of gravel.
4. If you plan to install drainage system, then it is laid close to the resulting "water seal".

Reinforcement, pouring and drying

Above the level of 3 cm from the layer with crushed stone, it is necessary to lay a metal mesh with a step of 0.75 m. After that, you need to mix the concrete and pour it in equal portions into the resulting formwork sections. In this case, the composition to be poured must reach the level of the upper edge of the wooden "box".

Healthy! After pouring, pierce the surface with an iron rod in several places to release excess air.

You can distribute the composition with a trowel or a rule. To increase the resistance of concrete, 2 hours after pouring, ironing is performed. To do this, the surface is covered with a layer of dry PC 400 3-7 mm thick.

Healthy! So that the composition does not crack, it must be moistened with water 1-2 times a day.

In addition to how to properly fill the blind area, you need to make sure that it does not crack during the drying process. To do this, you need to protect the coating from precipitation and the sun with a plastic film. It is believed that the blind area completely dries out in 10-14 days. However, according to the regulations for drying, it is worth taking at least 28 days.

A reliable, time-tested way to protect the foundation from the effects of surface water is to install a concrete blind area around the house. The undoubted advantage of a blind area made of concrete is its low cost and ease of manufacture.

100% protection against moisture, which is provided by a concrete blind area with an integral coating, is not able to guarantee any material (without arranging a multi-tiered "pie"). The condition of the foundation directly affects the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs capital protection.

This is precisely the main task of the blind area - protecting the foundation and basement of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize a more convenient movement along the blind area and gives the building a finished appearance.

Consider step by step how to properly make a blind area around the house of concrete with your own hands. We propose to break down all the stages of arrangement into theoretical and applied.

• In the first part, we will analyze what you need to know and prepare before getting started.

• In the second - how to prepare the bed and properly pour the concrete blind area.

Requirements for the blind area and the rules for its construction

• concrete pavement width, according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than an overhang roofing material. If there is a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and plays the role of a path around the house;

• length. Since the foundation needs protection around the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely encircle the structure. An exception may be only the installation site of the concrete porch;

• depth or level of deepening of the blind area should not exceed half of the estimated depth of soil freezing characteristic of a particular region. This parameter you can look in the table or request information in the architecture department at the location of the object.

  The ability of a concrete pavement to move along with the soil informs it of its function. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to water drainage, which is not enough to protect the foundation.

  Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the soil.

• concrete pavement thickness. Justified is the minimum thickness of the surface layer of 70-100 mm. If an increased operational load is planned, for example, the movement of a car, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;

• blind area slope. SNiP III-10-75 recommends what the slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (i.e. 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed in the direction opposite to the foundation of the house. Slope requirements depend on local rainfall and soil type. In practice, the slope is taken equal to 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If you do more, then in case of icing, it will be difficult to move along such a blind area;

• border. In the case of a blind area, the border is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the owner of the house and his financial capabilities. However, if bushes are planted in the immediate vicinity of the blind area - “root aggressors” (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that differ in a powerful surface root system (poplar, plane tree), then the installation of a limiter is mandatory;

• plinth height. The standards establish a minimum base height of 500 mm for a hard type blind area and a minimum of 300 mm for a soft one. Recall that the blind area around the house made of concrete is of a rigid type;

• deck height from ground level. It is desirable that the blind area is 50 mm above the ground. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate on the edge of the blind area and turn into puddles. In winter, this is fraught with freezing and, accordingly, the destruction of the structure.

• concrete deck construction has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the drawing below.

Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the installation of a concrete blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation.

How to make a blind area of ​​concrete around the house

Material preparation:

• blind area concrete. The brand is an indicator of the quality of concrete, its value ranges from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement content in concrete. The concrete class is in the range from B3.5 to B8 and indicates the strength of concrete. So, class B 15, indicates that a cube of concrete pouring with a size of 15x15x15 cm is able to withstand a pressure of 15 MPa.

What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, cement brand M 200 (class B15) is used.

The parameters (properties) of concrete, depending on the brand, are shown in the table.

• sand. What is needed? For the device of the lower layer of the pillow, a river or quarry sand. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that can damage geotextiles;

• rubble (gravel). For the blind area, crushed stone of fraction 10-20 is suitable;

• clay or geotextile for a hydraulic lock. In practice, this layer is absent in the base cushion, because concrete drains water well;

• iron cement.

The composition of the concrete solution for the blind area

If it is not possible to use ready-made concrete, you can knead it yourself. For this you need to prepare:

• pavement cement. You should know that the brand of concrete is determined by the brand of cement and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. For the blind area, cement M400 Portland cement is used. Cement must be fresh, with each month of storage it loses 5% of its properties. It is easy to check the freshness, just squeeze a little cement in your fist, if it shrinks into a lump - its expiration date is running out, if it crumbles freely - you can work with it;

Note. What kind of cement is best for the blind area? Naturally fresh and high brand. This will save on cement consumption and prepare a good concrete solution.

• sand. To prepare concrete, you need to take sifted and washed from impurities and soil;

• rubble. It is advisable to use crushed stone of a fraction of 5-10 mm. At the same time, crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;

• water. Should be at room temperature;

• additives. Needed in order to give concrete frost-resistant properties. Often used as an additive liquid glass.

From the tools you will need a concrete mixer or a container for mixing, a shovel, a bucket (it is better to take a plastic one, it is easier to wash), a measuring container (for water), a manual tamping log or a vibrating plate.

Preparation of concrete solution for the blind area

In practice, the blind area solution is prepared in portions, after all preparatory work. We will give a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to mix it correctly.

The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. The durability and strength of the blind area depends on the ratio (proportions) of these components.

Note. Components are measured by weight only.

The proportions of the solution for the blind area

Note. 1 cubic meter of sand is on average 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of crushed stone is on average 1500 kg.

Depending on the brand of concrete, the proportions will differ. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture for obtaining concrete of a certain grade.

The concrete mixture is very demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because. brings cement flour to the top layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the fortress is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that water should be approximately half the amount of cement. More accurate data is contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W / C) for concrete).

The order in which the components are added to the solution is also important. Cement is first poured into a mixing tank or concrete mixer and water is poured. By mixing, the so-called cement milk is obtained. Then the rest of the components are added to it. First, sand is poured, in small portions, and then crushed stone (gravel).

Note. Professionals advise maintaining an interval of 5 minutes. between the supply of components. Thus, the mixture is better mixed.

The technology of the blind area made of concrete with insulation

Step-by-step instruction:

Preparation of the base for the blind area. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed, all roots, stones, etc. are removed. The use of a continuous herbicide will eliminate the activity under the substrate. For example, drugs Agrokiller or Tornado.

Advice. Considering that the blind area should exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb line to accurately mark the boundary of the blind area.

markup. To do this, we pull the rope over the stakes clogged in the corners. To avoid sagging of the rope, you need to install intermediate stakes (at a distance of 5-6 m from each other).

Advice. How to determine the required angle of inclination of the blind area? Masters install additional beacons (stretch the rope) on the basement of the house. Fastening is made through 1-1.5 meters.

Hydraulic lock device. To do this, lay greasy clay with a layer of 100-150 mm or cover the bottom with geotextiles (roofing material, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Please note that the film does not tear, it is better to pour a layer of sand 50-100 mm into the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also poured over the film. The sand is leveled, moistened and rammed. In the case of a clay hydraulic lock, there is only one sand layer. When laying the film, its tension should be avoided. It must be able to move freely with the ground.

Note. Masters advise to make high-quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to dig a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with rubble or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextile and fill it with rubble. This will increase the rate of water removal.

It is worth noting that many people ignore this stage of work. In practice, this attitude translates into the fact that the water passing through the expansion joint goes directly under the foundation, and when it freezes, it leads to an increase in pressure on it.

Backfilling of rubble. The layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm. The gravel is leveled and rammed. Since crushed stone is difficult to compact, some recommend using a special grate for laying it, which is used in landscape design for gravel paths. We note right away that this will increase the cost of the blind area without special need.

Sand filling.

Laying pipes of communications. To do this, a recess is made in the sand for pipes and storm water inlets.

Blind area insulation. Styrofoam or polystyrene foam is laid on the compacted sand, with which crushed stone and communications are covered. Only hard insulation is suitable for the blind area, but it is afraid of point loads, so it must be laid on a sand cushion.

Advice. Cold bridges can be eliminated by laying the insulation in two layers with an offset.

Reinforcement of concrete pavement. It is carried out by laying a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50x50 or 100x100 mm or knitting a reinforcing cage.

Advice. The chain-link mesh is not suitable for reinforcement - it is too flexible.

If insulation is not expected, the reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the rubble to a height of 20-30 mm. That will contribute to a better distribution of concrete.

Formwork device. Boards or plywood are installed strictly according to the level. In order to level the bursting force of concrete, the formwork is reinforced with stakes that are installed on its outer side. When installing, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all seams will be visible after its dismantling. In this case, the blind area will have an ugly appearance. Therefore, when installing boards, you need to ensure that the internal seams are invisible.

The device of expansion joints. To do this, we install wooden slats, boards (on edge), which are pre-treated with an antiseptic or tarred. The recommended distance between the expansion joints of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Expansion joints must be made diagonally at the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during operation. They are set according to the level, taking into account the angle of inclination of the formwork, because. when pouring concrete, they are guided by them. As an alternative to wood, Guerlain butyl rubber tapes (10 rubles / m) or a hydro-swellable elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A / B, can be used.

How to close the seams in the blind area?

According to reviews, those who ignored the formation of expansion joints after the first winter had cracks. Many people think that wood swells and lets moisture through. The resulting cracks can be sealed with special sealants, such as TEKTOR 103 mastic (225 rubles / piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles / piece).

Pouring concrete pavement. When pouring concrete, care must be taken to ensure that no air pockets form, and that the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that tubercles and depressions do not appear during pouring. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If it is not possible to make the entire blind area at a time, part of it is poured, and then work is resumed.

Advice. When pouring the blind area, you can apply a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - bayonet. To do this, the concrete is “pierced” with a rod, and the mortar fills the entire space.

How to pour a concrete blind area around the house - video

Protection of the concrete blind area from destruction

Many are interested in how to cover the concrete pavement around the house. After all, without fail, after pouring the solution, the blind area must be protected from heaving, deformation, destruction, exposure to moisture, rain, snow. Consider how and what is the best way to do it.

Ways to protect the blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation:

Ironing of the concrete pavement around the house

How to iron the blind area with your own hands?

• Dry method of ironing - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm) followed by grouting. Dry cement sets with concrete mortar and increases its ability to withstand water.

• Wet method of ironing - 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete dries), you need to walk along the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1: 1) with the addition of lime dough (10% of the volume of the mixture).

Covering the blind area with a primer

Deep penetration primers, such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rubles), are suitable for this. Priming solutions are used when additional finishing is planned. For example, laying tiles or painting. If this is not in the plans, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZH-11 (195 rubles / 5 l). Concrete hardeners are gaining popularity, such as Monopol 1 (1,600 rubles / 5 kg), Monolit-20M (1,200 rubles / 10 l), Protexil (3,600 rubles / 20 l) or Ashford Formula ($ 120 / 10 l).

Protecting the blind area with liquid glass

A solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budget option protective composition(primer, water repellent), providing a similar result. A solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a ratio (ratio) of 1:1:1.

Covering the blind area with a layer of enamel

Enamel must meet certain parameters for frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, and environmental friendliness. The polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rubles/kg) has proven itself excellently.

Facing the blind area with tiles, stone

Lay tiles (ceramic, clinker, paving), pebbles or a natural stone. In this case, concrete acts as a binder solution.

• near the blind area, it is desirable to install a storm drain, which will drain the flowing water and prevent silting of the site;

• to ensure uniform drying of the poured concrete, the blind area is covered with a film. So, evaporated moisture will linger on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover a wide blind area with a film, it can be moistened periodically. The time to complete solidification with a blind area thickness of 100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;

• after the concrete has completely dried, the blind area is removed. Here you should be careful, because. removing the blind area can lead to damage to the edges of the blind area.

This procedure for performing work and taking into account all these nuances guarantees a long-term full-fledged functioning of the concrete blind area.

Do-it-yourself concrete pavement repair around the house

The most common problems include:

The appearance of cracks in the blind area

How to fix cracks in the blind area?

Elimination depends on the depth of damage (crevices, crevices, concrete breaks):

• no more than 1 mm. "Self-healing" is used. Such a crack is not dangerous and is usually rubbed from friction during walking;

• no more than 3 mm. Assumes the use of "cement test". Shallow cracks can be repaired (filled) with a liquid cement solution (1 part cement to 1 part water);

• 3-30mm. Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant of the type mentioned above TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. You can repair the crack with a freshly prepared concrete solution. However, before that, the crack needs to be widened. In cross section, it should resemble a cone. Apply a primer over the entire area of ​​the crack. Any will do, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rubles / 10 l). Next, the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydroseal, a special cement-based mortar that hardens in 15 minutes. As an example, putty Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel (410 rubles 5kg)

• crack depth exceeding half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a split in concrete and refers to significant damage. It is eliminated only by expansion with the subsequent pouring of new concrete.

Stratification of the surface of the blind area over the entire area

In the language of the masters, this process is called concrete dusting or delamination (stratification). Several factors may be responsible for this phenomenon. For example, uneven hardening of concrete happens if you pour a concrete solution on a cold surface (observed when working in early spring) or make a large blind area. Increased air content in the concrete mix. Exceeding parts of crushed stone in the composition of concrete.

What to do if the concrete pavement crumbles?

If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with a “cement paste” or a composition that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1: 1: 1).

If the damage has reached a significant scale, then you need to take drastic measures:

1. determine the boundaries of damage to prevent its spread;
2. cut down part of the concrete;
3. cover the edges of the blind area with a primer;
4. apply a new layer of mortar;
5. cover with foil until completely dry.

If you start, you will have to completely dismantle the blind area and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help extend the life of the blind area and save on alteration and reconstruction.

The cost of work on the device of a concrete blind area without material

And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the prices for a concrete blind area. If you entrust the work to the masters, then the estimate should contain the costs of the work, which are presented in the table (approximate data at the end of 2015)

Service - work on the blind area of ​​a private house	Doing the work yourself	The cost of the master's work per sq.m.
Material price	We do not take into account, because cost will be the same
Removal of the old blind area (dismantling)	0	65
Marking and excavation (depth 600 mm.)	0	300
Clay water lock device	0	100
Laying foil or geotextile	0	40
Backfilling of the sand layer + rammer (5 mm.)	0	80
Formation of crushed stone layer (100 mm)	0	80
Installation of a storm water inlet	0	250
Pipe laying (per meter)	0	50
Concrete blind area device (ready-made concrete)	0	300
Concrete pavement device (concrete mixing)	0	650
Total	Saving	About 1200-1400 rubles

At the same time, keep in mind that it is unlikely that you will be able to negotiate a significant discount here. After all, this price does not take into account the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for the manufacture of a concrete blind area for 1 m.

Conclusion

Agree, a good incentive to make a blind area of ​​concrete with your own hands. Moreover, from the above instructions it is clear that this work does not require a special tool, any special materials, only the desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.

The blind area around the house is a special design that is designed to remove precipitation and protect the foundation from premature destruction. Also, the blind area is necessary in conditions of heaving soil or in areas with high level ground water that can undermine the foundation. Let us consider in more detail how the do-it-yourself blind area is performed, as well as what options for its implementation are most effective.

In addition to protecting the foundation, the blind area also performs practical and design functions. Very often it is used as a track, so it must have sufficient hardness and abrasion resistance. When choosing a blind area, you should also consider landscape design and house exterior. The correct blind area around the house helps to emphasize the architectural style of the building, to make the local area more accurate and practical.

Filling the blind area can be carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. However, it can be made even after graduation. finishing works. If this point is neglected, over time, cracks may appear in the foundation, and the thermal insulation performance of the structure will also decrease. Thus, the role of the blind area at home should not be underestimated. This is one of the main stages of building a house, which directly affects the quality of the building.

Paving around the house

Before starting the construction of the blind area with your own hands, you need to decide on the materials from which it will be made. Most often, concrete, asphalt, bricks, wood, etc. are used for these purposes. reinforced concrete slabs or tiles. The correct blind area around the house should have at least two layers. Upper layer contains the main coating, and the lower one is a pillow of sand, fine gravel, carving or clay.

Ideally, the blind area around the house should be done simultaneously with the foundation. The width of the blind area should be about 80 - 100 cm or 20 - 30 cm more than the eaves. The wider the blind area, the faster the water is drained. In this case, one should remember about the slope, which should be 3 - 7ᵒС. A small drainage groove can be made around the perimeter of the blind area. This will eliminate the stagnation of water during heavy rains or during the melting of snow masses.

How to make a blind area with your own hands

Making a blind area with your own hands is quite easy. The construction process does not require special knowledge and is carried out in several stages:

1. Foundation preparation.

Do-it-yourself installation of a blind area begins with leveling the surface, removing plant roots, removing the top layer of soil with a shovel and cultivating the earth with herbicides. It is necessary to install restrictive boards around the perimeter and make a sand cushion. To do this, a layer of sand is poured onto the prepared surface, compacted and filled with water. Next, a layer of rubble or brick battle is poured.

1. Waterproofing and insulation.

Insulation of the blind area allows you to increase the thermal insulation of the foundation, which is especially important if the house has a cellar or basement. Polystyrene foam, foam glass or foam plastic can act as a heater. The air gap between the concrete layer and the ground can reach 15 cm. The blind area is waterproofed using PVC film, bitumen or roofing felt.

1. Installation of temperature cuts.

Temperature cuts can be made using storm trays or flat slate. Between the wall and the blind area, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint by placing roofing material, sealant or bitumen in it.

1. Pouring concrete.

Concrete for the blind area can be made by combining 0.5 shares of water, 1 share of cement, 3 shares of sand and 4 shares of crushed stone. Cement is better to take brand M-300. Filling is carried out carefully within the bounding boards.

1. Ironing.

After 15 - 20 minutes after pouring the solution, the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed with a spatula. Thanks to this technique, the blind area is stronger, smoother and more moisture resistant.

The blind area around the house can be made from concrete slabs. As in the first option, the base is prepared for this, after which the finished slabs are laid out, and bitumen is poured. Also recently, profiled membranes have become increasingly popular, which are placed immediately on the ground, covered with crushed stone, sand, after which any coating is installed.

Alternative blind area at home

The most popular option in our country is a concrete blind area 15 cm thick. If earlier this type of blind area was the most affordable, then in our time there is a wide variety building materials, insulation and waterproofing films, with the help of which the cost of the blind area around the house can be significantly reduced. Consider several alternative options for mounting the blind area with your own hands.

Soft blind area for difficult soils

Soft blind area is one of the most simple options blind area device, which can be used for heaving soils. It is carried out in several stages.

Blind area with rubemast

Rubemast is an inexpensive waterproofing material made on the basis of fiberglass or fiberglass with bituminous impregnation. With the help of rubemast, you can build a high-quality blind area, adhering to the following action plan:

Geotextile blind area to protect against weeds

Installation of a blind area from geotextiles is carried out in several steps:

Building a blind area in Finnish

This type of blind area is widely used in the construction of Finnish houses. It is fundamentally different from the technologies familiar in our area and is carried out according to the following principle:

1. A corrugated pipe with holes is laid around the perimeter of the house.
2. Gravel is poured over the pipe, foam plastic is overlapped and covered with soil.
3. Next, the pipe is connected to the drain wells.
4. At a distance of about 40 cm from the walls of the building, crushed stone and decorative pebbles are poured.

The variant of the Finnish blind area is quite effective, drains water well and prevents the foundation from freezing.

Russian blind area - cheap and cheerful

This version of the blind area is very unusual and was invented by Russian craftsmen. It is carried out using glass bottles in several stages:

1. A thin layer of concrete is poured onto a small sand cushion.
2. Next are the usual glass bottles and the next layer of concrete is poured.
3. After that, reinforcement is performed, and the next layer of concrete blind area is poured. If necessary, the surface is ironed, i. sprinkled with dry cement.

The advantage of this technique is the absence of expansion joints and low consumption of concrete. In addition, the bottles leave an air gap in the blind area, increasing its thermal insulation without additional insulation.

In general, there are quite a few options for the execution of the blind area around the house. If desired, it can be made of different heights, decorated with natural or artificial stone, tiles, covered with pebbles or gravel.

Video blind area device

It is popularly told about formwork devices and pouring the blind area.

In addition, it is used as a convenient pedestrian passage and decorative design when landscaping the area adjacent to the house. The use of dense or bulk insulation when constructing a blind area allows you to protect the foundation from the effects of low temperatures and reduce heat loss through the building envelope.

A fairly simple device of such a protective coating simultaneously solves several important tasks related to protection and landscaping, without requiring large financial investments. At the same time, you can do it yourself, without inviting specialist builders for this.

The blind area around the house is made immediately after the completion of the exterior walls of the building, but before the start of the basement. This is due to the need to block the expansion joint between the wall and the track covering from rainwater due to the protruding surface of the base overhanging it.

For piled, deep columnar and screw foundations, the presence of a blind area is not mandatory, but it is often made as an element of landscaping and as a convenient footpath.

blind area design

A protective coating must be made around the entire perimeter of the house, since it is necessary to ensure the protection of the entire foundation array. The basic requirements on how to properly make a blind area around the house with your own hands are set out in SNiP 2.02.01-83, which says that on normal soils its width should be at least 600 mm, and on subsidence - at least a meter. In general, the width of the covering should extend at least 200 mm beyond the protruding roof edge. The maximum width is not regulated.

General drawing of the blind area.

The hard coating must be laid on a dense base with a thickness of at least 15 cm. The slope of the blind area from the building is not less than 0.03%, with the lower edge exceeding the planning mark by more than 5 cm. Storm water must be discharged into storm sewers or flumes.

A well-made insulated blind area should consist of three main layers:

• surface waterproof;
• underlayment of gravel or a mixture of crushed stone and sand;
• polystyrene foam insulation.

As an additional layer, it can be used, which will be a fairly reliable waterproofing against groundwater rising in spring, and will also prevent possible germination of weeds.

Materials for coating the top layer

The materials used for the top layer when constructing a blind area are quite diverse and have their own distinctive features. The simplest and most inexpensive is ordinary clay. With its help, you can create a fairly reliable hydraulic lock. This protection is often found in countryside. However, modern developers have long abandoned such primitive materials and use more efficient technologies.

Options.

The most common option is how to make a blind area - a concrete pavement device. You can easily and quickly mount it yourself, without investing large financial resources. At the same time, concrete is characterized by high strength and durability, and also allows it to be covered with paving slabs in the future to improve its appearance.

Finishing the blind area with paving slabs is made on a cement-sand mixture or mortar. Most often it is used to create a single color ensemble with the decoration of the building or its decorative elements. It is also quite durable.

Paving stones can be laid on a compacted sand cushion. It has a beautiful appearance, but is more expensive than tiles and a few. When using paving stones, it is necessary to ensure that the top layer is of high quality for complete sealing.

Sectional diagram of a concrete pavement.

blind area device natural stone looks very nice and will last for many years without repair. However, the high cost of the material reduces the possibility of its wide application.

asphalt from behind bad smell rarely used in hot weather. In addition, this one is not very durable, and buying a factory one is much more expensive than a concrete screed device.

Do-it-yourself concrete pavement device

For the installation of a protective coating of concrete, you will need the following materials:

• cement brand PC400 or PC500;
• river or washed sand;
• gravel or crushed stone fraction up to 40 mm;
• polystyrene foam insulation boards;
• board and bitumen for its processing from decay;
• reinforcing mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm;
• clay or geotextile.

From the tool and construction equipment you need to prepare:

• or manual tamper;
• bayonet and shovel;
• wide bucket for concrete;
• building level;
• plaster rule;
• mason's trowel;
• hacksaw and hammer.

Work begins with the marking of the future coverage. Its size was mentioned above. After the final marking for the width of the track, the top layer of soil should be removed to a depth of 25-30 cm, and the bottom should be rammed.

Next, you need to spread a geotextile sheet along the bottom of the trench or arrange a hydraulic lock 5-7 cm thick from compacted clay. Pour a 4-5 cm layer of sand onto geotextiles or clay and tamp it down as well. Sand is needed so that the sharp edges of the rubble do not damage the integrity of the waterproofing layer.

Now from boards or another sheet material you need to assemble and install a removable formwork along the edge of the trench. Its height should be 5 cm above the planning mark of the adjacent territory. After that, you should fill in and compact a layer of crushed stone with gravel 7-8 cm thick and sprinkle it a little with sand. This layer of sand is needed so that when pouring the concrete mixture, the cement mortar does not go into the voids left between the stones.

When constructing a concrete pavement, it is necessary to provide for expansion joints 1-2 cm wide. They will compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete layer in hot weather and prevent its possible rupture during strong cooling. To do this, along the wall of the house around the entire perimeter of the base, using bitumen, you need to glue a layer of roofing material or waterproofing 1-2 cm thick. Instead of roll materials, you can use a porous foam polyethylene bundle.

Formwork drawing.

In addition, every 2-3 meters, as well as at all corners of the building across the blind area, pieces of boards 2-3 cm thick should be installed on the edge, which, after pouring concrete, will compensate for possible expansions.

Before installation, the wood must be treated with a bituminous compound to protect it from moisture and decay. It is necessary to install transverse compensation rails in such a way that their upper edge corresponds to the future concrete surface.

Brand of concrete and its pouring into the formwork

To increase the strength of the concrete layer, it is recommended to reinforce it with a metal mesh with a cell size of 10x10 cm. If you have an old bar or wire with a diameter of 5-8 mm, then this material can be used, but all individual elements must be interconnected.

After the formwork is installed, the reinforcing mesh is laid, and the bulk layers are compacted, you can start preparing the concrete mixture and pouring it. A strong and durable coating allows you to get the use of concrete grades M200-250.

You can buy it ready-made with delivery to the site or make it yourself, 1 part of cement, 2.5 parts of sand and 4 parts of gravel. Water is poured into the mixer last and added gradually, until a homogeneous mass of medium density is obtained.

Ready-mixed concrete is placed inside the formwork on top of the reinforcing mesh in such a way that its edge rises slightly above ground level, and the slope of the blind area is at least 3% towards the building, i.e. for 1 meter of width there should be a 3 cm increase in level.

Leveling the surface should be done using a plaster rule and a trowel. It is necessary to check the presence of a slope at all times using the building level.

Proportions of concrete mix.

A stronger surface can be obtained by applying ironing. To do this, the surface of the wet concrete that has not yet set must be sprinkled with dry cement and, using a wide spatula, rub it into the solution. If such a finish of the blind area near the house occurs by sifting cement through a sieve, then you don’t have to rub it in, it will be evenly distributed even without it.

In hot and dry weather, it is recommended to cover the poured concrete layer with a wet cloth and periodically water it to ensure that the material sets and does not dry out. The initial setting time of the concrete mixture is 72-96 hours. After that, it is already possible to stand on it without damaging the surface.

Blind area from paving slabs

Since the coating is paving slabs does not differ in such strength as a concrete monolith, then the base for its laying becomes more dense, having a rather thick layer of compacted clay as the lower base, and a cement-sand mixture on top, on which the tile is laid.

Scheme with paving slabs.

The depth of the trenches for the manufacture of the blind area in this case digs deeper than for the concrete blind area. In order for the covered layers of pain to be more stable, a trench 40-45 cm deep is required.

A layer of clay 20-30 cm thick is laid and rammed on its bottom, which will protect the base from the penetration of groundwater rising in the spring. A border is placed on the clay layer along the edge of the trench, the upper edge of which will not exceed the level of laying tiles along the edge of the blind area.

After that, a layer of crushed stone or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured and well rammed. The top layer of gravel should be approximately at ground level. A layer of geotextile is spread on the stone, as a protection against the germination of weeds, and already on it, on a layer of cement-sand mixture, paving slabs are laid.

Paving stone pavement

Differing from paving slabs in greater thickness and better stability, paving stones can be laid simply on a dense sand cushion. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench 15 cm deep, spread geotextiles on the bottom, and fill in a layer of sand that does not reach the top of the trench a little. After that, you need to lay the paving stones, if necessary, adding sand.

To ensure the tightness of the top layer, all seams between the stones must be carefully sealed with a cement-sand mixture or cement mortar. The border should not extend beyond the upper level of the coating.

Soft blind area

Gravel option.

Soft types of coatings include a blind area made of crushed stone and other multilayer coatings that have cobblestone, gravel, pebbles and other bulk materials as the top layer, under which there is a layer of clay or sand covered with plastic wrap. This is the most inexpensive type of coating and it is done very simply, but such a blind area made of crushed stone lasts no more than 5 years. After that, it is necessary to solve the issue of protecting the foundation again.

Highly important point when installing a soft structure - the presence of a slope of a waterproofing layer made of polyethylene or clay. This is necessary because in this system, water is not removed by a surface coating that allows it to pass through, but by a waterproofing layer.

Insulated system device

The insulated blind area protects the building structures of the foundation from the effects of low temperatures and significantly reduces heat loss from the building. As a heater, a material of sufficient density, strength, hydrophobic and not subject to decay should be used. The best way Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene meet these conditions.

Photo of a properly insulated blind area at home.

The process of insulation consists of three stages, which are included in the general scope of work on the installation of a blind area around the building. First, a layer of waterproofing in the form of roofing material or hydroisol is laid on a thin sand cushion or rammed clay, with part of the material being placed on the side walls.

Then the vertical basement wall is insulated by fixing sheets of thermal insulation on it. During the vertical installation of the sheets, it is necessary to ensure the connection between them in the protruding groove. In cases where this is not possible, the seams must be sealed with mounting foam.

The horizontal layer of insulation is laid on the bottom layer of the base of clay or sand. To reduce the cost of purchasing materials, you can use the first layer of foam as a heater, and lay more durable polystyrene foam on it. In this case, it must be ensured that the seams between the individual sheets do not coincide vertically.

The further procedure for how to properly make a blind area is no different from what was described above.

There is an opinion that the insulation of such a structure can be ensured by filling it with a layer of expanded clay instead of crushed stone. This opinion is not entirely correct. In layer bulk expanded clay air gaps remain, in which moisture will accumulate over time, and the thermal insulation properties of such a layer will greatly decrease. If, however, expanded clay concrete is used, then the required layer thickness will be very large and all the savings will disappear.

Operation and repair of the blind area

Cracks or other damage can form on the surface of the concrete pavement over time. This occurs most often as a result of subsidence of the soil, improperly selected width of expansion joints, the use of low-quality materials, and for other reasons. Repair of such damage can be done using a mixture of bituminous primer, asbestos and sand.

The market value of services for the installation of a blind area.

Initially, the crack expands somewhat and is cleaned with a water jet of debris and dirt. Then you need to let it dry and pour the prepared mixture.

Too much damage should be extended to right size, wetted with water and restored by pouring new concrete. If necessary, the volume of damage is reinforced with steel wire or rod. After the concrete mixture has hardened, the restored areas must be treated with a primer.