Installing a hanging toilet with your own hands. Do-it-yourself installation of a suspended wall-mounted toilet bowl: on installation and on a concrete base Installation of an installation for a suspended toilet bowl

20.06.2020

Conventional floor toilets have outlived their time. They are being replaced by new developments. Toilets mounted on the wall began to displace conventional models. A wall-hung toilet is more difficult to install, more expensive, takes longer to install, however, it saves such important square meters. Especially this development will be appreciated by residents of old buildings, where a bathroom and a bathroom occupy a couple of square meters. Among other things, you can save your money if the installation is carried out wall hung toilet with your own hands. From this article you will learn about each stage of this work.

Device and principle of operation

You can figure out how to install a wall-mounted toilet if you understand how the installation design works and what is the principle of its operation. Whole structure wall mounted toilet can be divided into three separate elements:

1st element - strong steel frame:

The frame is the main part on which the toilet bowl and cistern are attached. It must be securely fixed to the floor and wall. After installation, it must withstand the weight of an adult. As a consequence, the walls must meet this requirement. If you have drywall on the walls, then it will not work as a basis for a hanging toilet. Among other things, the frame has a mechanism that allows you to adjust the height of the bowl in the region of 40–43 cm. Strong steel pins are used to fasten the toilet bowl.

2nd element - drain tank:

In such a system, the tank is hidden. It is made from heavy duty plastic. The shape of the tank is standard. It is installed in a steel frame. To prevent the appearance of condensate, the tank is covered with Styrofoam. There is a special cutout on one side for installing a drain button. If in the future repair of the tank is required, then it is through this hole that the fittings of the drain tank will be removed. Each cistern in the wall-mounted toilet is equipped with an economical flush system. Water is dosed in 3 and 6 liters.

3rd element - toilet bowl:

The bowl is the only visible part of the suspended structure. Its shape can be different (square, rectangular, round), although in most cases it is an oval.

As for the fasteners for the hanging toilet bowl, it is included in the kit. So you don't have to buy anything extra.

Tools and materials for installation

To carry out quality work, you will need to prepare the following set of tools and materials:

plastic outlet for drains,
teflon tape,
hairpins,
flexible hose,
angle valve,
perforator,
set of keys and screwdrivers,
construction level.

Depending on individual needs, a set of construction tools and materials may vary slightly.

Mounting technology

The process of installing a wall hung toilet is as follows:

The work, of course, is difficult, but if you strictly adhere to this manual, and also study the attached instructions from the manufacturer, you can do everything yourself.

This video shows the installation of a GEBERIT installation:

Installation without installation

In case you like the wall-hung toilet model, but you can’t buy it complete with the installation, you can build a home-made concrete base. This is much more cheap option. As for the installation of the tank in this embodiment, there are two options here:

Mounted on the wall.
Mounted above the toilet bowl.

For example, consider the most affordable and economical option for installing a toilet bowl without installation with a concrete base. To do this, you need to prepare in advance:

40 liters of concrete M200;
formwork boards;
washers, nuts and wood screws;
2 metal rods Ø2 cm, length 50–80 cm;
plastic pipe Ø11 cm, length 8 cm;
silicone sealant;
drain coupler.

The workflow looks like this:

Metal rods must be fixed in the main wall. It is on them that the toilet will subsequently be mounted. This design can withstand weight up to 500 kg!
Then the drain coupling is installed. The trimming of the coupling is carried out taking into account the height of the bowl.
Then the formwork is installed. Attachment points should be marked on the formwork. Holes are made in the right places.
The length of the rods also needs to be adjusted correctly. To do this, add up the depth of penetration into the wall and the distance from the wall to the toilet bowl.
When the formwork and rods are installed, perform a test fitting with the toilet bowl in place.
If everything fits together, you can start concreting. Fill the drain hole with foam. Upon completion of the work, a monolithic structure with outgoing pins and an open coupling will be obtained.

Then it remains the case for small - you need to install a toilet bowl. Pre-fabricated concrete structure. Remember that each connection must have a good seal. As for the tank, it is a matter of taste, or rather, the financial capabilities of the family.

We have considered with you the options for mounting a wall-mounted toilet bowl: with and without installation. Choose the method that you can afford and can afford.

Photo

The usual floor-standing toilets have been replaced by suspended structures that do not take up floor space and look more modern. Not surprisingly, wall-mounted models began to displace traditional products from the market. Installation of a suspended structure is more difficult, takes more time and costs more, but you can save money if you consider such an option as installing a suspended wall-mounted toilet with your own hands.

Internal arrangement and principle of operation of the structure

If you understand the design features of the product, it becomes clear how to install a wall-mounted toilet.

The design of the wall product is such that only the toilet bowl is a visible element

The first element is a strong steel frame, which is the basis to which the visible part of the structure is attached - the toilet bowl. It is with its installation that the installation of a hanging toilet begins. The frame is securely fixed to the wall, also fixed to the floor - as a result, it must withstand the weight of a heavy person.

Accordingly, it is unacceptable to mount this structure to weak walls (for example, drywall), since the wall simply cannot withstand it. The frame is equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height (400-430 mm), on which the bowl of the product is mounted. It is suspended from the frame using special pins - this is the main fastening of the hanging toilet.

Often two installations are installed at the same time - for the toilet and for the bidet

The second element is a plastic drain tank hidden in the wall. Its shape differs from the traditional one, since the container must fit in a narrow design. It is mounted in a steel frame and insulated special material, excluding the appearance of condensate - styrene. The front wall of the tank is equipped with a cutout for mounting a trigger button device. In case of repair, this cutout is also used. Almost all modern cisterns involve drain dosing: for example, the volume of drained water can be either 3 liters or 6 liters, depending on the purpose.

Cisterns of flat configuration are fixed inside the installation

The third element is the toilet bowl, the only visible and actively exploited part of the structure. Its shape is traditional, oval, although designer models come in both round and rectangular configurations.

The toilet bowl can be rectangular or even round - it all depends on the imagination of the designer and the desire of the client.

There should be no problems with fasteners, since a set of necessary parts and tools and installation instructions are included with the product. Sometimes it is required to additionally purchase a Teflon tape, a polyethylene outlet, a flexible hose, and studs.

Installation technology for installation

Mounting a wall-hung toilet with a special frame installed in the wall is more expensive, but more reliable and faster.

The installation must be mounted to the floor and the main wall

Installation steps:

Installation of a steel frame - through special holes it is attached to the main wall and floor with dowels. At the installation site, sewer and water pipes are removed. The frame (installation) should be checked for evenness using a level. It should be clearly parallel to the wall to which it is attached. At this stage, the installation height of the hanging toilet bowl is also set - 40-43 cm. It depends on the height of the apartment owners.

The height of the toilet bowl is adjustable during installation

Water supply to the tank. It can be flexible or rigid. Experts insist on a hard option, as it lasts much longer. While the liner is being installed, the valve in the tank is in the closed state.

At the time of work, the drain of water from the tank should be blocked.

Connecting the toilet to the sewerage system. The toilet outlet is inserted into the sewer outlet, the connection is fixed with a corrugation. After installation, it is necessary to test the system - make a test drain. To do this, the toilet bowl is completely screwed to the frame for a while. Then it is removed again, as it is usually installed at the final stage.

Many installation kits are connected to a sewer pipe without using corrugations

Sheathing of the working area with sheets of drywall. For the plumbing unit, sheets of waterproof double drywall are chosen, more durable than usual. The panels are mounted to the frame and a metal profile, which is mounted on the wall. In the instructions attached to the product, there is a detailed scheme for cutting the material with the places for cutting the necessary holes. There can be two options for sheathing: for the area of the entire wall or just to close the installation. In the second case, an impromptu shelf will appear above the toilet bowl.

An impromptu shelf above the toilet and bidet can be used for decor or the right things

finishing material

Wall cladding behind the toilet should be in harmony with the rest of the room.

steel frame

Lined drywall sheets cover the installation and cistern, leaving the toilet bowl and flush button

Particular attention should be paid correct installation installation, as the correct execution of subsequent work depends on it.

Installation of a toilet bowl without installation, on a concrete base

Sometimes they are interested in how to install a hanging toilet without installation. Of course, installing a toilet on a frame can be replaced with a cheaper option - mounting on a do-it-yourself concrete base.

Cistern they are installed in two ways: either they are mounted on the wall with the outlet of the drain buttons, or they are placed in a standard way above the toilet bowl in a manufactured base.

Scheme of fastening a wall-mounted toilet bowl: 1 - 2 rods mounted in the wall; 2 - monolithic concrete base; 3 - drain pipe

Consider the most economical option.

To install, you need to prepare:

about 40 liters of concrete M200;
formwork boards;
nuts, washers, wood screws;
2 threaded rods 2 cm thick (length from 50 to 80 cm);
a piece of plastic pipe (length - 8 cm or more, diameter - 11 cm);
drain coupling;
silicone sealant.

Procedure:

Start by fixing the rods in the main wall. In the future, a toilet bowl will be “planted” on the releases of the rods. You get a fairly stable design that can withstand a weight of 400-500 kg.

The dimensions of the concrete base are calculated taking into account the further dismantling of the formwork

Install formwork. Calculate the distance between the holes for fasteners, mark the fastening points on the formwork.

Calculate the length of the rods: sum up the thickness of the recess (about 15 cm), the distance from the toilet bowl to the wall. To fix the rods in the wall, a chemical anchor is used - a special glue for concrete.

After mounting the pins and installing the formwork, they try on the toilet bowl. Holes for fastening must coincide with the outlets, the outlet - with the drain of the coupling.

The concrete base will finally harden only after 2-3 weeks

Start concreting, supporting the drain hole with foam. The result is a monolithic block with a fixed open sleeve and outgoing pins.

The concrete base must include the pins for the toilet bowl, the outlet of the drain coupling and the space at the top for mounting the cistern

You should not think about how to install a wall-mounted toilet on a prepared base - the subsequent steps do not differ from installing a conventional floor-standing toilet: connect the drain, seal the connections, install the bowl on the pins, tighten the nuts. The drain tank is fixed above the toilet bowl.

The concrete base and drain pipe can be covered with drywall sheets, leaving an opening for access to the drain tank

Such a do-it-yourself installation of a hanging toilet bowl will save the family budget, since an expensive installation is not required.

Not so long ago, interesting alternatives to simple floor-standing toilets appeared on the market - suspended installations. Today, many consumers choose them, noting the interesting design of such products. But not all users know how to properly install such plumbing items. The article will discuss how to install simple and suspended installations.

What it is?

Installation is a special system, which is a well-thought-out design that allows you to securely and firmly fix the toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures. In addition, such elements are necessary to hide plumbing connections.

Peculiarities

According to consumers and experts, modern suspended and floor installations are very convenient. Using such an interesting system, you can put the toilet so that its tank is securely hidden behind the wall. At the same time, it is additionally protected by a heat-insulating material, which provides sound insulation of plumbing in the process of its use.

When installing the installation, only the toilet bowl itself is always noticeable. Thanks to this feature, the room in the bathroom or toilet will seem much more spacious, even if in fact its area is modest.

Professionals say that the installation of such systems can be done by hand. To do this, you just need to stock up on all the necessary tools and clearly follow the step-by-step instructions. Of course, if you are not very confident in your own abilities or are afraid to take on such work, then it is better for you to call experienced craftsmen,

If you decide to install a floor or suspended installation in your home, then you should familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of such systems. First, let's look at their advantages.

First of all, it should be noted the compact dimensions of such products. Thanks to this characteristic, suspended or floor installations can be installed even in very small rooms, where every centimeter counts.
Such systems are distinguished by quiet operation, since the toilet bowls are hidden behind the walls.
Many housewives note that it is much easier to clean rooms with such structures - there are fewer hard-to-reach areas.
If you decide to install a suspended structure, then you will have the opportunity to lay out a mosaic on the floor or beautiful pattern from tiles - nothing will interfere with such a composition, violating the integrity of the picture.

Right installed installations allow you to save water. This is due to the fact that in such designs there are two buttons. One of them is responsible for a large flow of water, and the second for a small one.
Such types of plumbing are not prone to breakage. If they do occur, they can be easily eliminated.
Installations are quite acceptable to install in the conditions of "Khrushchev".
Suspended and floor installations are reliable and durable structures. They seamlessly withstand impressive loads (up to 400 kg). Certainly, this advantage takes place if the toilet has been installed correctly, and the bowl itself is made of high-quality material.
Suspended and floor installations look very original. Their design attracts attention and makes the interior of the bathroom or toilet more stylish and modern.

Installations have their own weaknesses Let's look at them in more detail.

Such systems are not cheap. It should also be taken into account that, coupled with additional expenses for installation work, such a design can cost a tidy sum.
In such designs there are always hidden elements that become inaccessible for repair and maintenance.
Replacing classic toilets is a fairly simple job, but if you decide to replace the installation, then you will most likely have to renovate the entire room.

Kinds

There are several types of suspended and floor installations. Let's get to know them better.

block

Block installations have support posts and fasteners. Such structures can be used for the installation of both floor and suspended products. Block systems are reliable, strong and durable. Their installation is considered quite simple.

However, block installations have one serious drawback - they require the mandatory presence of a main wall in the room.

Framework

The frame (or frame) system is no less reliable, strong and durable. These structures can easily withstand loads up to 400 kg.

Frame options can be mounted on four points on the wall or two points on the floor and two on the ceiling. Sometimes such structures are installed directly on the floor.

Frame structures do not require a main wall, like block options. Such systems can be mounted not only on concrete and brick, but even on plasterboard partitions.

These structures are based on a solid steel frame. You can install not only a toilet bowl on it, but also other additional elements. For example, it could be a sink or a bidet. It is possible to install the frame system not only near a straight wall, but also in a corner.

corner

If you want to choose an original and fashionable design that is far from the usual standards, then you should pay attention to corner installations. However, it should be noted that such a design can only be installed if there are right angles of 90 degrees in the room.

Installation of corner products is more difficult. In addition, such installations are more expensive than other options.

Varieties of toilet bowls

Contrary to popular belief, toilets can be different. They differ in the shape of the bowl, the method of flushing, the release into the sewer system and the material of manufacture.

By type of bowl

Toilets are equipped with bowls that have different shapes.

One of the most popular are funnel models. They have a number of advantages for which they are chosen by many buyers. The main thing is that funnel-shaped products are hygienic, since in this design the funnel is located in the central part of the bowl. Funnel models do not have serious drawbacks, however, when using them, there is a high probability of a surge.

The second most popular are dish-shaped toilet bowls. They are simple flat platforms. Such models are cleaned only under the action of a water jet. Such models are considered obsolete, but differ in that they exclude splashing. Unfortunately, disc bowls are not very hygienic, which is why they have not been so popular lately.
And there are also common visor bowls. In such products there is a special protrusion that prevents the formation of a splash, as well as a slope with which the walls of the toilet are cleaned.

By type of flush

Toilets also differ in how they flush. This parameter depends on the direction of water flow. Modern manufacturers produce toilet bowls with direct and circular flush.

Direct flushing occurs with the help of a water stream on one side of the bowl. Such models are durable and reliable, but they do not guarantee sufficient flushing of the entire surface of the toilet bowl. In addition, these products are quite noisy and create a lot of splashes. But models with such a flush are inexpensive.

As for the circular flush, in it the water jets are directed at different angles and move in different directions. Thanks to this system, up to 95% of the bowl surface is processed and cleaned. In addition, flush toilets are not noisy.
Less common are toilets with non-standard drain systems, which provide for the preliminary filling of the bowl with water, and then its quick descent. With this method, the flush fills the entire cavity of the toilet. The disadvantages of such products include excessive water consumption during operation. This figure can exceed 8 liters.

By release into the sewerage system

Modern varieties of toilet bowls also differ in the way they are discharged into the sewer.

The oblique method was popular in the construction of riser structures in multi-apartment buildings of the 70-80s of the last century.
Horizontal descent in our time is the most common. Most of the current buildings are designed to use toilets with such a system.
And also there is a vertical descent. Today, such systems are used in both American continents.

According to the material of manufacture

Floor and wall-mounted toilet bowls are made from different raw materials. Each model has its own specific traits and positive traits. Let us consider in more detail what materials modern toilet bowls are made of.

Faience

Toilet bowls made of a material such as faience cannot boast of high strength. And they also have a small porosity, so cleaning such products is not an easy task. Currently, such raw materials are not used so often, since as a result, very fragile objects are obtained from it, on which chips, cracks and other mechanical damage easily remain.

Of course, in modern production, special technologies are used, thanks to which faience sanitary ware becomes more reliable, however, faience is much inferior to other materials from which toilet bowls of various modifications are made.

Porcelain

Porcelain toilet bowls are stronger and more durable. They are easy to clean. Such models can often be found in public institutions, as they easily withstand impressive loads and do not fail.

As for the disadvantages of porcelain toilet bowls, they include the high cost of such products. To reduce costs, more affordable ceramics have become widespread.

Steel and cast iron

Metal plumbing is a classic. Metal toilets are most often found in public places. Such products are distinguished by durability, strength and resistance to wear. They are almost impossible to damage or scratch. Steel and cast iron structures easily withstand heavy loads.

The disadvantages of such products include the relatively high cost. Cast iron toilet bowls are considered the least popular, as they have an impressive weight and poor durability of the enamel coating.

stone and glass

Glass and stone toilet bowls (natural or artificial) are classified as products from the "modern" category. Such plumbing items are expensive, but they have an elegant and attractive design. appearance.

Glass models cannot boast of excellent strength characteristics. However, there are many analogues of glass and stone, from which no less beautiful toilet bowls are made, which are more reliable, but are inexpensive.

Plastic

Thanks to modern technologies on sale you can find toilet bowls made of a material such as reinforced acrylic. Many consumers mistakenly believe that such products are not durable. Actually it is not. Acrylic models have a long service life. In addition, such products are quite practical - they have almost no porous surfaces, so they are easily cleaned of any contaminants.

The disadvantage of such plumbing is its susceptibility to deformation, which can be caused by mechanical stress or too high temperatures.

flush buttons

For modern installations, special buttons are produced. As a rule, they are quite large, since it is through them that you can get to the hidden tank.

If necessary, the button can be easily removed from the special latches with a simple thin screwdriver. After that it unscrews decorative panel The that surrounds the button. Similarly, other similar structures are dismantled.

If you have a pneumatic stop-drain button installed, then the causes of problems with such structures can be:

failure in the power system;
malfunction in the shut-off valve opening system.

To repair a pneumatic button, you must have special knowledge. If you have not worked with such elements before, then you should call the wizard.

There are also touch buttons. Such details look interesting, and it is convenient to use them. It is worth considering that the lion's share of damage to the touch buttons occurs due to violations of the integrity of the supply cable. Only an experienced person should repair such mechanisms.

Accommodation options

Regardless of which installation you choose, you need to start installation work with a competent choice of a place for the toilet. In city apartments of a standard layout, one can single out a truly suitable space - a niche in which there are water and sewer risers.

To install the installation, you will need to slightly redo the niche by placing risers in the corners. If they are made of metal, then it is recommended to replace them with plastic ones.

Before proceeding to the installation work, it is necessary to apply the correct markup. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the installation.

Dimensions

Currently, toilets and installations of various sizes are sold in stores. However, the standard dimensions of floor models are 520x340 cm. The seat height in such options is 400 mm. There are models of toilets that have an increased length of 7-10 cm (such models are especially popular in America).

Suspended instances have different parameters:

small models have a length of no more than 54 cm (perfect for compact spaces);
medium ones are produced with a length of 54 to 60 cm (they are considered optimal products, as convenient as possible to use);
large models with extended length up to 70 cm (ideal solution for elderly and obese users with disabilities).

What is included?

The set of floor and suspended installations includes the following components:

frame;
toilet bowl;
seat with cover;
tank;

exhaust pipe;
soundproofing;
flush buttons;
fasteners.

Installation

Many owners believe that it is very difficult to install the installation, and they cannot cope with such work on their own. Actually it is not. Consider step by step how to properly mount such a system with your own hands.

Tools

To install a floor or pendant installation yourself, you will need the following tools:

laser or bubble level (choose a tool that will be more convenient for you to work with);
a special construction pencil or marker for marking;

perforator;
drill for concrete;
roulette;
open-end wrenches (overhead).

Preparatory work

Installations assume the presence of a separate niche in the room, in which the frame will be located. It should be borne in mind that the walls in the room must be quite reliable and strong.

The niche in the room should have the following parameters:

1000mm high;
600 mm wide;
150-200 mm deep.

There are cases when the requirements for depth are quite difficult to fulfill. Then the niche should be made as deep as possible. At the same time, its disadvantage should be sheathed (closed) with drywall and covered with a finishing material.

Installation

After preparing the niche, you can proceed to the installation of the installation.

First you need to fix the metal frames to the wall. As a rule, in these structures there are initially holes with which the frames are attached to the dowels.
There should be two attachment points - to the wall and to the floor.
Further, sewer and water pipes must be brought to the installation site.

Be sure to check that the frame is level. Nowhere there should be distortions and significant deviations from the level.
Horizontal adjustment should be made using wall mounts.
At this stage, the height level of the hanging toilet is also set. First of all, this parameter will depend on the growth of households. Most often, the height of the toilet in this case is 0.4 m. The height of the bowl can be adjusted at your discretion in the future.

Such structures should be mounted with all responsibility. All parts of the box must be fixed as evenly, securely and firmly as possible. Otherwise, the system may fail.

Connecting sewerage and water supply

After fixing the toilet, you need to bring water to the tank. To do this, you can use a flexible or rigid system. Most specialists use a hard approach, because it is more reliable, durable and durable. Of course, it is permissible to install flexible hoses, but if they get damaged or deformed, then they can not be easily reached and quickly removed. During the installation of the liner, the tank valve, like the drain, must be closed.

After connecting all the necessary elements, you need to check the reliability and quality of the fasteners. To do this, open the water in the tap and fill the tank. If you notice a leak, then it must be fixed. In this case, water may remain in the tank.

Next, you need to connect the toilet to the sewer. To do this, the drain hole of the plumbing fixture must be inserted into the outlet of the sewer pipe using a suitable corrugation. There are also models that can be assembled without using it.

After completing all work, you should make sure that there is sufficient tightness installed system. To do this, you need to temporarily screw the bowl to the frame. After that, it will need to be removed again. You can mount this part only at the end of all installation work.

Please note that the sewer pipe wiring must be connected before the installation itself begins. Its diameter should be 100 mm (norm). It must be laid with a special slope.

Finishing

After installing all the components, it is necessary to close the structures with a plasterboard sheet. Functional elements must be sewn up with similar sheets / panels. For the bathroom, you should buy only moisture-resistant drywall, which is more durable and wear-resistant than simple material.

Sheathing can be done in two ways:

over the entire plane of the overlap;
only along the plane where the installation is located.

The second way of finishing involves the formation of a small shelf located directly above the bowl. It can be used to place the items needed by the owners. After that, the closed barrier must be finished with tiles or PVC panels - it all depends on how the rest of the partitions in the room are decorated.

As you can see, self-assembly hanging or floor installation is quite possible to do it yourself. It is worth listening to some advice and recommendations from experts to make the design more reliable and of high quality.

When installing the installation, the tank is always "hidden" in the wall. However, one way or another, you will need access to it. To do this, you need to mount an inspection hatch. It is better to place it just below the installation button.
The installation location of the button must be planned, while taking into account the layout of the tiles on the walls. It is recommended to mount this part between adjacent tiles or in the central part of one of them.

The thickness of the structure covering the installation should be no more than 70 cm.
Leave a distance between the fasteners of plumbing. It should be 180-230 mm.
To save water, it is recommended to select the appropriate buttons equipped with two types of drain.
If floor standing toilet leaked, then you need to make sure that the plumbing is properly sealed. All joints and connection with the corrugation should be treated with sealant again.
If the toilet is unstable, then you should tighten the bolts. However, this should be done more carefully so as not to disrupt the thread.
Most often, polypropylene pipes are used for laying. In addition, all metal risers must be replaced with plastic ones.
Before proceeding with the installation work, it is worth drawing up detailed drawings and a diagram of the future design. This is especially important if you decide to install a complex corner installation.

If the bathroom is located in the central part of the living area (far from the capital floors), then only a frame structure should be installed in it.
Before installing the installation, it is desirable to change the niche and remove the risers in the corner.
Please note that the installation of suspended plumbing should only be started 10-14 days after fixing the frame.
When adjusting the height of the wall-mounted toilet bowl, it is necessary to rely on the distance from the center of the horizontal sewer exit down to the clean floor. It is also necessary to take into account the slope of the pipes.
Do not proceed with the installation of the installation until you carefully study the instructions that come with it.

Before installing the toilet, do not forget to make a "output" of pipes cold water.
Remember that any problems in the inside of the barrel are quite easy to identify: carefully examine all the nodes. All moving elements must “walk” without problems, the junctions must be as tight and reliable as possible, distortions should not be present in the structure.
The frame can only be installed after the screed and waterproofing of the floor have been made.
V wooden house it is recommended to mount lower and wider installations. Thus, the load on the wall will be significantly reduced. Otherwise, it is better to attach the structure to the floor.

From the author: Hello friends! Agree, it’s good when there is a spacious apartment available, or even a house built in accordance with personal preferences. As a rule, all rooms in such dwellings differ in quite decent dimensions, because comfort is the most important thing that we want to get from a home. But still, more often there are situations when we are forced to live not in ideal, but in affordable housing. Take, for example, the well-known "Khrushchev". You can still put up with the size of the rooms in it. In principle, there is where to turn around, and not everyone likes huge halls.

But the bathroom is eternal headache hosts. As a rule, it has a place either for plumbing or for a person. You can still go there, but more or less freely turn around - no longer. Therefore, in such cases, there is only one way out - to choose the most compact equipment possible. In today's article, we will talk about how to choose and how to install a wall hung toilet. This type of product can save much-needed space in the room. Of course, its installation is more complicated than in the case of conventional sanitary ware. But, believe me, the opportunity to free up space will please you very much in the end.

Advantages and disadvantages

Many people are very wary of such "frills". We are accustomed to seeing toilets in the guise of equipment standing firmly on the floor, reliable and strong. Hanging options seem to be more flimsy, and indeed, people usually approach everything new with caution. Let's take a look at what positive and negative features are characteristic of this type of sanitary ware:

aesthetic appearance. An ordinary toilet looks more rude and even, one might say, frankly. Whereas the models attached to the wall are beautiful and concise;
ease of cleaning. Usually, when cleaning in the bathroom, the toilet “leg” causes a lot of problems, especially in a cramped room where it is difficult to bend down. You have to get close to it, and then carefully clean all the bends that are there, while being in an uncomfortable position. With pendants, you can forget about such difficulties, since there is no leg - no problem;
all communications and the water tank itself are hidden in the wall. On the one hand, it is beautiful and, again, aesthetically pleasing. No pipes violate the external harmony of the room. On the other hand, if suddenly something from the hidden breaks, problems may arise. Firstly, if there is a leak, it is difficult to quickly notice it. Secondly, the repair will not be so simple, since the elements sealed in the wall will have to be somehow selected. Although I saw very convenient options, when a door is made in a false wall at the level of placement of such equipment - in particular, problem areas such as joints, valves, etc. Outwardly, it does not protrude too much from the surface, since it is finished with the same decorative material, which is the whole wall. At the same time, the issue of access to communications is solved easily and simply;
space saving. We have already touched on this issue above, but here is what should be clarified. It is physical savings in terms of the size of the room that you will get fifteen centimeters, no more, since some part will be occupied by a false wall, which we will talk about below. But visually it will become much more spacious. And then, in especially critical cases, the place under such a toilet can also be useful for placing any necessary things. So there is a spatial benefit anyway;
some people have doubts about whether such equipment can withstand a large load. Especially often such fears arise in those who weigh a lot. Purely psychologically, an object hanging on the wall does not look very reliable, so obese people are usually afraid to use such things. In fact, the mount is strong enough to support a weight of about 150 kilograms. so there is nothing to be afraid of if your body weight does not exceed these limits. Otherwise, of course, it is better to take the usual option, installed on the floor;
price. Here the hanging toilet has nothing to brag about: it is frankly more expensive than the floor counterpart. True, it cannot be said that this option is available only to wealthy people. The price range is quite wide, so you can still choose a model that matches your budget;
installation complexity. This can also scare away many, especially beginners, masters. In general, not in vain, since it is not so easy to properly install a suspended model with your own hands. You will have to mount not only the equipment itself, but also make a false wall. However, the complexity of this lesson is not prohibitive. So, with a little patience and care, you will definitely cope.

Varieties of design

In principle, the essence of all wall-hung toilets is the same: they consist of a tank, a bowl and an installation. Of course, each of these parts is different from those that are characteristic of floor models. The bowl has a different shape, the tank is flat and plastic. About the installation is worth talking separately.

installation

The installation is, in fact, the same construction, thanks to which all other elements are safely kept in suspension. It is a strong frame made of steel.

There are two options for mounting installations: block and frame. The former are compact in size - as a rule, the dimensions are half a meter wide, a meter high and 10–15 centimeters deep. The volume of the drain tank, which is mounted on such a frame, varies from three to five liters.

Block installation is attached only to the wall, without the participation of the floor. Therefore, the foundation must be very reliable. That is, to fix such a design, only suitable, but not interior. This must be taken into account when choosing.

Frame installations are more dimensional. Their width can be from 50 to 60 centimeters, height from 80 to 140 centimeters, and the depth varies from 15 to 30 centimeters. The tank installed on this design can hold from 6 to 9 liters of water.

Such structures are not hung on the wall. They are placed on the floor and attached to it. Some models are additionally fixed on the wall, but at the same time it does not have to be a carrier.

Bowl

The main operational place of such a toilet can be round, rectangular, egg-shaped, etc. - the modern market offers many different options, among which you can choose the one that suits your taste. The bowls also differ in size. They can be compact, up to half a meter long, medium, like conventional toilets, and also enlarged, the length of which varies from 65 to 70 centimeters.

In addition, you can choose models with some features:

rimless bowls - there is no usual protrusion in their upper part, which makes cleaning the product much easier;
built-in bidet - in the normal state, the washing nozzle is hidden in the back wall of the bowl, and if necessary, extends;
backlight. As a rule, it is connected to a motion sensor, which makes using such a toilet extremely convenient at night or when there is a power outage in the house.

Of course, the design of the bowls can be very diverse. There are options from glass, faience, metal and other materials, with and without drawings. The color range is also very wide. Here the choice depends solely on your personal preferences.

Installation procedure

Installation of hanging toilet bowls can be carried out both with installation and without it. The first option is more popular, so we'll start with it.

Mounting with installation

The first thing to check is the strength of the wall and floor. Ideally, they should be concrete. We remind you that if you decide to use a block version of the frame, then the wall must be load-bearing. It is on the strength of the connection between the frame and the base that the reliability of the installation of suspended sanitary ware depends. So, let's get to work.

We start, of course, with the markup. We need to mark on the wall and floor all those points where the fasteners will be placed, as well as the location of the sewer outlet and the water pipe. To make it easier, first mark the place where the drain tank will be fixed. Usually it is located a meter from the floor, and the bowl is half a meter.
Now you need to bring the water pipe to the appropriate mark. To do this, you can use a flexible hose, but the best option would still be metal-plastic. It is more reliable and durable.
We also bring a sewer outlet to the right place. If your installation is of the frame type, then please note that it provides a specific area for this pipe, in accordance with which you need to place it.
Next, we proceed to fix the frame. In the places marked for fasteners, we drill holes, for this we need a puncher. We install the dowels, then the frame, fasten it with anchor screws. Fixing is done first on the floor, and then, if necessary, on the wall.
We connect the drain tank to the water supply pipe, and also fix the sewer outlet on the installation.
The steel frame has holes for screwing in special studs that come with the equipment. Install these items in place.
Now you need to mount the fake wall. The best option for this is drywall. But keep in mind that not everyone will fit. Ordinary drywall does not tolerate water very well. Since we are talking about a bathroom (and it is often also combined), care must be taken to prevent the destruction of the wall. Therefore, use only waterproof drywall. Outwardly, it differs from ordinary material with a greenish surface. In a sheet of drywall, cut holes for everything that will stick out of it: this is a sewer pipe, pins, a drain button, and the like. Mount the wall and then produce it finishing. This can be done with paint or tiles.
We put the bowl on the pins, properly press it against the wall, fix it with bolts.
At the end of the process, we mount the drain button.

We check our design. To do this, open the valve on the cold water supply pipe, wait until the tank is full, then drain. We repeat several times. If everything is in order - performance is at the right level, there are no leaks, etc. - then you can put it into operation.

Installation without installation

You can do without a steel frame, but such installation is carried out only on a load-bearing wall. You will need metal rods with a length of 30 centimeters or more, wooden shields, concrete, toilet bowl structural elements and wall cladding material.

We take it out of the wall.
At the right height from the floor (that is, where the bowl will be fixed), we drill holes and install metal rods in them. It is desirable that the wall be drilled through, and the rods were fixed with nuts on the back of it. If this is not possible - for example, on the other side of it there is an apartment of neighbors - then do not drill through, but add glue intended for concrete products to the holes before installing the rods.
Next, around the sewer outlet and the rods, we mount the formwork from wooden panels, creating a box of three walls. We close the pipe with a dense film. On the central shield we fix a piece of foam in the place where the bowl will be connected to the drain.
We pour concrete into the formwork. You can make it yourself from one part of cement, two sand, three gravel and the required amount of water. Soap is added as a plasticizer.
After pouring, we wait about a week until the structure dries. We remove the formwork.
We mount the bowl and the tank in the appropriate places, connect the communications.
We sew and trim the wall.

Both installation methods are not so simple. But using the installation is still more convenient and takes much less time. With concrete, you will have to tinker as much as possible. In addition, such works are not distinguished by excessive cleanliness, and the drying of the block around the pins will take a whole week.

On the other hand, this option is cheaper. So, if you prefer to spend energy, not money, then go for it. Good luck!

From this article you will learn:

What are the benefits of installing a wall hung toilet?
What you need to know about the device of such a toilet for its correct installation
What you need to install a wall hung toilet
How to properly prepare a niche for mounting a toilet bowl
What is the procedure for installing a toilet bowl on an installation
How to install a wall hung toilet on a concrete base

Each buyer of a residential or commercial premises in Moscow always faces a number of questions regarding interior decoration, the choice of sanitary equipment, and interior design. One of the elements of sanitary equipment is a hanging toilet. When choosing such a solution, it is worth weighing all the pros and cons, since, unlike the classic version, installing a wall-hung toilet will require more effort, time and money.

What are the features and benefits of installing a wall hung toilet

What is attractive about buying a wall-hung toilet, and what difficulties may arise during installation and subsequent operation?

Design. Undoubtedly, the wall-mounted toilet attracts with its concise design. Mounting on the wall looks more aesthetic than the usual version with a floor-mounted toilet. It is also possible to choose the type and design of the flush plate.
Compact accommodation. Visually, such toilets undoubtedly look more compact, but is it really so? For installation not in a niche, but simply on a wall, a wall-hung toilet requires a minimum of 15 centimeters of indentation, which is closed by a false wall. If the wall does not initially provide a niche for mounting a hanging toilet, then the question of compactness remains open.
Ease of maintenance. This type of toilet has no legs. Thanks to this feature, washing floors under sanitary equipment is easy and fast.
Repair work. Wall mounted toilet and closed type installation is an excellent solution for the interior, but on condition that the plumbing equipment is in good working order. In the event of any breakdown, buried installation makes repairs difficult, expensive, and sometimes requiring restoration work on the interior design of the toilet room after repairing the plumbing equipment.
Psychological aspect operation. When installing a wall-mounted toilet bowl, strong and reliable frames are used that can withstand a load of up to 400 kilograms. But at the same time, a psychologically incorrect perception of such plumbing equipment may arise: people will be subconsciously afraid that the toilet bowl will come off and it will crack.
Features of the installation of a hanging toilet. Installation attachments always harder than outdoor. To install a wall-hung toilet, you will have to spend more time and money, and sometimes even invite third-party specialists, since it is not always possible to easily mount the toilet on a wall that was not previously designed for this type of plumbing equipment.
Price. Wall models of toilet bowls are more expensive than floor options. This is due to the fact that a special high-strength steel frame is used when mounting the wall-hung toilet.
When developing wall-mounted toilet bowls, designers take into account every last detail, which has a positive effect on performance characteristics. Ease of use is a definite plus in favor of choosing such equipment.
Water dividers built into the bowl of the wall-mounted toilet bowl allow you to wash the inner surface most effectively.
One of the main arguments in favor of choosing this option is the possibility of preserving the floor tile pattern, since the toilet bowl does not touch the floor. In addition, you can use the "warm floor" system.
Thanks to its design, the wall-mounted toilet allows you to hide all the valves, hoses and pipes that fit it, which will positively affect the interior of the toilet room and expand the design possibilities.

In fact, the wall-mounted toilet does not outperform its conventional floor counterpart much in terms of performance. This is more of a design choice than based on any practical advantage. In addition, the wall-mounted toilet itself is usually more expensive, and its installation is more difficult. Therefore, with a limited budget, it is worth considering carefully whether the advantages of a wall-mounted toilet are really worth it in order to spend more money on it.

What you need to know about the installation of a wall-mounted toilet before proceeding with the installation

Before installing a wall-mounted toilet bowl, it is worth studying the installation diagram and design features this plumbing fixture.

The main power part of the structure consists of a solid steel frame, which is attached to the floor and wall. In this case, the walls must be made of brick, concrete and other materials that can withstand heavy loads. Mounting a wall-hung toilet on walls made of fragile materials such as drywall, wood is not the best idea. A toilet bowl is installed on a rigidly fixed frame using steel pins, which is the visible part of the entire structure. The frame, as a rule, is hidden behind a special false wall.

Flush cisterns of wall-mounted toilets are built into a false wall, they are not visible. A distinctive feature of such tanks is the material from which they are made - plastic. The depth of the plastic cisterns of the wall-mounted toilet bowls is 9 cm, the width is different. To prevent the formation of condensate, the tanks are insulated with special polymers. On the front of the tank there is a cutout through which the flush button is mounted.

Some modern models wall-hung toilets are equipped with a water dosing system, several keys are responsible for a fixed volume - 3 or 6 liters. This allows you to use water more economically.

Before installing a wall-mounted toilet bowl, it is worth checking the complete set, quantity necessary materials, tool. Models from different manufacturers may have different equipment.

The diagram clearly shows the installation device with a plastic flush tank and the necessary connectors for installing a wall-mounted toilet bowl.

What materials and tools will be needed to install a wall hung toilet

Before starting installation, you need to figure out what parts the wall-hung toilet consists of and how it is installed.

Basic structure	Technically called installation. It is the main structure on which the load falls, and serves to install the toilet bowl. The installation must be durable and allow you to adjust the height of the bowl, which makes it possible to install the toilet in almost any room.
Tank	Thanks to its design, the tank is easy to install on the installation. The main material from which the tank is made is plastic. On the front panel there is a button associated with the water drain mechanism. Through the button, maintenance and repair of the drain mechanism is carried out. The tank can have either one or several buttons, which saves water.
toilet bowl	There are a wide variety of bowls on the market, differing in shape, design and color. The buyer can always choose a bowl that will satisfy his needs. But it is worth remembering that the main thing in the toilet bowl is its functionality, therefore bowls of bizarre shapes, although beautiful, are not always technically perfect and are inferior in their parameters to bowls of a simple form. The material from which the toilet bowls are made is faience or porcelain. Faience is cheaper, but porcelain has better characteristics.
fasteners	Installations and toilet bowls are usually equipped with fasteners sufficient for a hassle-free installation. If there is any doubt about the quality and reliability of fasteners, it can always be replaced with a more suitable one, sold separately in construction and specialized stores.

In addition to the above, you will definitely need a tap in sewer riser, as well as elements for supplying water to the toilet bowl - reinforced hoses, adapters, ball valves. It all depends on where and how the installation is carried out, what are the dimensions of the room.

As a rule, when buying an installation separately from a wall-hung toilet, there are no installation problems, but still, when buying separately, it is worth checking the compatibility of the elements with each other. It is also necessary to check the completeness of the package according to the list specified in the passport of the device.

In principle, some elements of the wall-mounted toilet can be modified as desired, for example, installing a double flush button that allows you to adjust the flow of water.

Tools and materials required for installation work:

drill;
drills for concrete;
hammer;
screwdriver with nozzles;
adjustable wrench;
FUM tape (for thread sealing);
core;
corrugation for a sewer pipe;
building level;
sheets of double waterproof drywall.

Open-end wrenches may also come in handy, special knives drywall, tape measure, hole markers and other tools.

The scheme of installation work when installing a wall-hung toilet bowl usually looks like this:

Make a niche in the wall of a suitable size.
Bring the sewer to the niche.
Perform installation of the installation frame.
Lead to the place of installation of the cold water supply pipe.
Connect the toilet bowl.
Close the niche, install the flush button and finish.
Hang the toilet by connecting to the tank, as well as to the sewer.

Also, when installing a wall-mounted toilet and subsequent finishing, you may need a certain amount of drywall or a material that replaces it.

When installing a wall-hung toilet bowl, it is necessary that the work at each stage is carried out with high quality, and the installation itself is carried out reliably, without any errors and inaccuracies. In the future, during the operation of this plumbing equipment, installation errors can cost a lot of money and effort.

How to prepare a niche for mounting a hanging toilet

For reliable installation of a wall-hung toilet, only those walls that have a high bearing capacity are suitable. Mounting a hanging toilet on a wall made of drywall or foam blocks is a pointless exercise. The weight that a properly installed hanging toilet can withstand is 400 kilograms.

When installing an installation for a wall-mounted toilet bowl, a niche with the following parameters is required:

height - 100 cm;
width - 60 cm;
depth - 15-20 cm.

Often it is not possible to fulfill the requirement for the depth of the niche, so the niche is made to the possible depth, and the installation itself, which goes beyond the plane of the main wall, is covered with plasterboard and finishing elements.

Thus, for interior design, it becomes possible to use elements that cover a niche in the wall, for example, to make outrigger shelves or convenient cabinets.

If there is no possibility to hollow out a niche and you have to mount a hanging toilet just on the wall, then this design does not make much sense. In this case, it is easier and cheaper to install a conventional floor-mounted toilet, which will take up the same amount of space.

In many modern houses, niches for communications are already structurally provided, so it is worth considering installing a wall-mounted toilet just there. But at the same time, it should be borne in mind that, most likely, you will have to redo the water pipes, placing them around the frame and tank of the hanging toilet.

With complex installation in niches where any communications already take place, it is worth contacting specialists: they have experience and all the necessary equipment.

The procedure for installing a wall-hung toilet bowl for installation

Most manufacturers complete wall-hung toilets with universal frames that allow you to adjust the installation height of both the toilet bowl itself and the wall-hung toilet. flush tank. At the same time, before the main installation, it is necessary to make measurements and markup at the installation site so that there are no difficulties during the work. Usually, the height of the suspension of the flush water tank from the floor is 1 meter, the bowl itself is mounted at a height convenient for operation.

Before starting work, it is necessary to check the outlets of the sewer and water pipes.

The steel frame is mounted with anchor bolts, which allow fast and reliable fixation of the frame, pressing it tightly against the load-bearing wall. When fixing the frame to the wooden floor, the most reliable and powerful wood screws are used, specially designed for high loads.

The installation of the frame must be accompanied by measurements using a level, it is advisable to mount the frames as horizontally as possible. After alignment, the final drawing of the anchor bolts and fixing the frame takes place.

The optimal height of the hanging toilet bowl is considered to be 40 centimeters from the floor level, but depending on the persons living in an apartment or a private house, the bowl is mounted to a height that is most convenient for them.

When installing the frame and bowl of the hanging toilet bowl, you must take care of the supply of the sewer pipe in advance, as a rule, the diameter of these pipes is 10 centimeters. When installing a sewer outlet, it is very important to observe the correct angle at which the pipe goes into the sewer riser.

The connection point of the outlet should be 25 cm from the wall niche. A bend is put on the horizontal part of the pipe at an angle of 45 degrees.

Installation of a frame with a tank

The frame is mounted with 4 support points. Two points are located on the floor where the frame is attached with special legs. Two points are at the top of the structure and the frame is attached to the wall with them. When marking and fixing the frame, it is necessary to maintain the horizontality of the structure. It is worth noting that if the installation of the frame is incorrectly performed (if it is skewed), then in the future, during operation, the internal mechanisms of the toilet bowl will not work correctly, the wear of parts will increase, which will lead to an early failure and subsequent complex and expensive repairs hanging toilet.

Horizontal alignment is also done with the help of convenient mechanisms.

When the frame is aligned horizontally and vertically, it is finally fixed. To increase the stability of the frame, its legs can be additionally cemented.

At the bottom of the frame there are special holes that allow you to mount the bowl. Usually the distance between the floor and these holes is 30-40 cm. Studs are inserted into them, which serve to further secure the wall-hung toilet bowl.

Connecting communications

It is necessary to start connecting a wall-hung toilet by connecting it with a special outlet to the sewer riser. The second side of the outlet must be securely fixed to the previously assembled frame, which is designed to be fixed to the bowl of the wall-hung toilet.

With the help of threaded connections, a water pipe is connected, depending on the location - either on the right or on the left. Pipes are recommended to be used from modern materials– polypropylene or copper alloys. Such pipes are durable, reliable, do not corrode. To supply water to the tank, special flexible steel-reinforced hoses are used, but they are less durable and have only relatively reliable connections at their ends, therefore, if possible, it is worth using water supply using pipes, as the hoses will sooner or later require replacement.

At this stage, the tightness of all water connections and water drainage to the sewer is checked. To do this, open the water and fill the tank, after which a test flush is performed. If all tests are successful, the water pipes and hose connections do not leak, and the flushed water has completely gone into the sewer riser, all connections are finally fixed.

Finishing work

After the final installation and checking the tightness and reliability of all connections, the final finishing is carried out. At this point, it should be borne in mind that the installation of ordinary drywall is not the best solution, in plumbing work a special moisture-resistant drywall is used, take care of purchasing just this type of finishing materials in advance.

In order to properly cut a sheet of drywall, the manufacturer includes a special template in the package, by applying which you can easily mark all the mounting holes in the sheet and not spoil the material.

Usually, with a combined bathroom, the finishing of the bathroom begins with the laying of tiles; in this case, the installation of a hanging toilet begins only after completion finishing works with tiles and ceramics. Even if you have completely finished decorating the room with tiles, this will not interfere with the further installation of the hanging toilet.

Installing a wall hung toilet

After the tile adhesive has completely dried, and the tile is firmly held in place, proceed to the most simple step- installation of a hanging toilet, that is, its main part - the bowl.

The installation of the bowl is carried out according to the following plan:

Adjust the dimensions of the outlet of the drain tank, which should protrude 50 mm beyond the wall.
In the same way, the pipe intended for the sewer drain is cut.
Install the pipes in the places intended for them.
They put a special gasket on the previously installed studs and pipes big size, in configuration it looks like a truncated pyramid.
Put the toilet bowl on the studs, securely connecting it to the nozzles.
Install plastic inserts and rubber gaskets.
Put on and tighten the fixing nuts.
Cut off the protruding part of the rubber gasket.

After all this, the final adjustment of the toilet bowl in height takes place, as well as testing the installed plumbing equipment, the water supply opens and flushing occurs. If everything is tight, there are no leaks, and the flush works well, while the water goes completely into the sewer riser - great, the installation of the wall-mounted toilet is almost completed.

Mounting the flush button

There are two main types of flush buttons: mechanical and pneumatic. They work, in principle, the same way. To install a mechanical button, you will need to install special pins and adjust them, a pneumatic button is even easier to install - it is attached to ready-made tubes.

How to install a wall hung toilet on a concrete base

The key difference between this type of installation of a wall-mounted toilet bowl is the absence of installation - the frame on which it is attached. The main condition for such an installation is that the wall must be strong, it is very desirable that it be a load-bearing wall.

For successful self installation wall-hung toilet requires the following:

2 steel rods with a diameter of 2 cm and a length of 50-80 cm with threads cut into them;
4 nuts and 4 washers suitable for threads;
40 liters of concrete grade M 200;
2-3 sheets of plywood;
wood screws.

To independently connect a wall-hung toilet, you will need:

rectangular drain coupling;
sewer plastic pipe with a diameter of 1.10 cm;
silicone sealant.

Before installing a wall hung toilet, be sure to read the instructions. We will write in more detail what needs to be done in order to successfully complete the installation of a wall-mounted toilet bowl on a concrete base.

1. In order to determine the installation height of the toilet, work begins with the installation of a drain coupling.

2. If the installation height is high, then the coupling is built up sewer pipe if vice versa - the coupling is cut to the desired length.

3. The distance of the formwork panels is determined, it is necessary to add a couple of centimeters in reserve.

4. The distance between the attachment points is measured with a tape measure, the standard is 20 centimeters.

5. After taking the dimensions, they are all transferred to plywood boards in order to make formwork from them. Not only plywood sheets are suitable, but also any materials that can serve as formwork for concrete, but the most convenient option, of course, is plywood.

6. Control check of the made measurements.

7. The threaded rods are cut off, and it is important to take into account that the length of the rod is added up from the end point of penetration into the wall to the place where the fixing nuts will be screwed. Carefully consider all lengths before cutting the rods to the length you need.

8. Rods are fastened in two ways:

Wall mount, the simplest: just drill through the wall with a special drill, insert the rod, put on the washer with reverse side walls and secure with a nut. This method good because it fits almost any wall.
If it is not possible to drill through the wall, the rods must be fixed in special ways, for example, with chemical anchors. The depth of the hole in the wall must be at least 14 centimeters. During installation, the hole must be cleaned of dust, then it is filled with glue and the rod is installed.

9. After collecting the formwork, a structure is obtained, consisting of three panels with holes for the rods. It is important at this stage to cover sewer hole polyethylene so that dirt and concrete do not get into the drain sewer riser.

10. Checking the correct installation of the shields is carried out using building level, after which the rods are installed, giving the formwork rigidity.

11. The bowl of the hanging toilet bowl is installed in place, it is tried on, any shortcomings in the assembly of the formwork are corrected. It is necessary to provide a place for connecting the toilet, that is, to make a place in the formwork where concrete will not be poured, for this you can wind a piece of foam on one of the rods, which will not allow concrete to fill the space.

12. After checking the installation of the formwork and the position of the bowl, the formwork is poured with a special cement mortar, consisting of 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 3 parts crushed stone and 1/7 part water.

13. Concrete is laid in small portions, which are smoothed out with a trowel and evenly distributed over the formwork.

14. To prevent concrete from getting on the rods, they are wrapped with polyethylene or other similar material.

15. Concrete is compacted with a special long stop, especially in the corners of the formwork.

16. The formwork is removed after 7-10 days, after the concrete has completely cured.

17. The drain tank is usually connected with a special corrugation, which is planted on the sealant and left for 24 hours - until the sealant is fixed.

18. Installation of a hanging toilet bowl, final installation of the bowl.

19. The junction of the toilet bowl and the drain pipe is coated with special sealants.

20. The toilet itself is mounted on rods, screwed with nuts through washers.

21. The polymerization of the sealant occurs within 12 hours or more, so at this stage you should not rush and try out the operation of the toilet, you must wait for all the joints to be fixed with the sealant.

22. The final installation of the hanging toilet bowl is being carried out, its connection to the sewerage and water supply, testing for leaks and checking the functionality of buttons and mechanisms.

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