Now it is difficult to imagine how people could live in a house without a toilet. But the bathroom today should be with the most modern equipment otherwise you will not get ease of use and comfort. In any bathroom, the toilet is given a central place. The drain mechanism at the same time different models slightly different, so special attention should be paid to the trigger - the drain tank valve, which we will consider in more detail today.
Drainage groups
There are only two types of toilet flush mechanisms that stand out depending on how they are put into operation:
| pressure | The second name is push-button, in which the drain can be:
A third type has also been developed - with a stop function. It is equipped with one key, but the water can merge in different ways. For adjustment it is necessary to press the button several times. For example, with the first press you open the water, and with the second you block its descent. |
| exhaust | They are also called stock. This is due to the fact that to activate the device, you need to lift the stem up with the handle, after which the drain hole will open. Recently released toilet models do not have such a system. |
Float valves
Used to supply and discharge water.
Devices have the following types:
- Croydon valve- consists of a shell, a lever axis on a float, a saddle and a piston, its price is the lowest. The lever moves perpendicularly, dragging the piston along with it. The system is usually used in old cisterns, which are extremely rare today.
- Piston valve- equipped with a lever axle, which is fixed in a forked cotter pin. The movement of the lever in a horizontal direction sets the piston in motion, which periodically touches the seat, which allows you to adjust the flow of water into the tank. At the end it has a seal, which, in contact with the seat, blocks the flow of water. This valve model is widely distributed today.
- Diaphragm valve- instead of a gasket, the design uses a membrane made of rubber or silicone, which is displaced during the movement of the piston. Thanks to this, at the right time, it can block the incoming flow of water. This type of device is the newest and most modern, usually used in the latest models of cistern. Below we will consider it design features and mechanism arrangement.
Modern toilet cistern valves
Advantages:
- The float diaphragm valve allows you to quickly draw water into the tank.
- Noise or soundless filling depends on the quality of the selected armature.
- With it, you can turn off the water very quickly, unlike previous models.
Among the shortcomings - the instruction requires only a constant pressure in the water supply network for the normal operation of the device. Its parameters should be 0.05-0.1 MPa. In addition, the purity of the water also plays a special role, otherwise the valve will quickly fail. Alas, in most cases outside the city these conditions are often not achieved.
The next point that cannot be ignored is the quality of the locking and shaped elements. The material for manufacturing must be of high quality and no defects are allowed in its production, otherwise the period of use of the products will be significantly reduced.
The device will have to be changed often, because repair in this case will not help. Making a new membrane with your own hands is unrealistic.
How the valve works
The inlet valve of the tank has its own principle of operation, which must be dealt with before carrying out work to repair or replace it.
Let's look at the process in more detail below.
- The first stage - the valve is open, and water begins to flow into the tank. At the same time, the membrane moves away under the action of the water flow and does not interfere with it. Only the preliminary compartment is filled.
To allow water to enter the tank itself, a special hole is made in the compartment. The process is similar in mechanism to the operation of devices equipped with valves with a stem, only with a diaphragm stretched over a piston.
It has a clearance for the passage of a plastic rod, which also has a clearance of Ø1 mm. Because of this, a small part of the water enters the filling chamber, which is formed by the piston and the membrane.
When the float is lowered, a hole Ø0.5 mm opens in the piston, through which a little water can enter the tank. This allows you to ensure the same pressure in the preliminary, filling compartments and behind the last one. In fact, this is the difference between diaphragm and stem valve design. - The second stage - water enters the tank, raising the float up. At the same time, the level of the rod with a rubber seal begins to increase, which closes the hole. Further movement of the rod presses the piston and the diaphragm more strongly against the seat, due to which the filling compartment is sealed. The water pressure created also helps. The membrane is pressed tightly against the saddles, and water stops flowing into the tank.
- The third stage is the descent of water. At this moment, the pressure of the float on the rod stops, which stops closing the hole in the piston, due to which the pressure in the filling compartment begins to decrease. At this point, the water pressure displaces the membrane, and the operation of the tank goes into the first stage.
Troubleshooting the mechanism
Water is not drawn into the tank or the supply is not blocked:
- This is usually due to clogging of one of the holes.
- The second option is the failure of the membrane or stem.
Tip: you need to disassemble the device and look at all its elements that need to be cleaned and rinsed.
- Another reason for such malfunctions is low pressure in the plumbing system or its jumps during the day. The device may also not work because of this. (See also the article.)
If the pressure is too low, no water enters the tank at all. For example, in a suspended structure, it will not even reach the filling chamber. The float will float, but will not block the flow.
Tip: as an option, increase the water inlets by drilling them out by 2-3 mm.
Conclusion
Today, the device of the drain valve, which is used in the toilet bowl, was considered, the reasons why the equipment may fail. With this knowledge, you will be able to deal with these problems on your own. The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find Additional information on the above topic.
The design and principle of operation of the drain tank are quite simple, therefore, it is rarely difficult to repair the device.
With some breakdowns of the drain tank, water does not flow to the floor, there is no threat of flooding the neighbors from below. Such malfunctions seem insignificant, but this is exactly until the bill for payment of water supply services arrives.
If a counter is installed, then any failure in the operation of the tank can become a problem! Therefore, the smartest solution is to eliminate it immediately, without waiting for trouble.
Minor difficulties sometimes occur only with improved modern models, in such cases it is worth contacting specialists. Basically, almost any repair of the toilet cistern can be done by hand.
The device of the toilet cistern is quite simple, and almost anyone can cope with its repair, because. it does not require any special skills
Mostly drain cisterns various designs similar. The main difference is in the installation method:
- Hanging tanks. Structures of this type are attached to the toilet bowl at a low height and connected with a pipe.
- Toilet bowl compact. The compact cistern is attached directly to the toilet bowl without connecting pipes.
- Built-in tank. Structures of this type are installed in the wall, they are used with hanging toilets.
Regardless of the models, the designs of the cisterns are very similar. Modern devices are convenient in that they can be repaired without disassembling the modules and replacing them entirely
The water supply to the drain tank is carried out either from below or from the side. The side feed device is most often found in domestic-made toilets. Its advantage is a relatively low price, which affects the cost of the entire toilet bowl as a whole.
Bottom water supply is often found in modern domestic and imported designs. Usually these are slightly more expensive models.
Mechanisms may be provided for draining various types: buttons, rods, levers, chains. The most common option is a button.
It can be located at the top of the structure, and in models with a hidden tank - on the wall. To drain the water, just press it.
Push-button models can only be disassembled after the push-button has been removed. How to remove the lid from a tank of this design is shown in detail in the video:
Buttons in which the water is completely drained after a short single press are called automatic.
Those in which water is drained only while the button is pressed are mechanical. The former are more convenient to use, while the latter save water when flushing the toilet.
There are single and dual-mode push-button drain mechanisms. In models with two buttons, it is possible to drain only half the volume of the tank.
However, there are designs with one button, which in the same way can drain either the full volume of water or half. If the push-button mechanism is equipped with a special auger that causes the water to rotate during the descent, then the toilet bowl is washed more efficiently.
Mechanisms with two buttons are a little more expensive, but the overpayments pay off, because draining in economy mode can reduce water consumption by 20 cubic meters. in year
Water volume adjustment
If desired, you can easily adjust the amount of water collected in the tank. This is necessary if the toilet is poorly flushed or there is too much water and there is a need to reduce its volume.
To change the filling volume, you need to remove the tank cap and follow simple steps. But before proceeding with the adjustment, you first need to deal with the device of the tank.
The video below will help you with this:
Option #1 - for side feed systems
Such mechanisms are equipped with a lever made of thick metal wire. It connects the valve and the float. To raise or lower the float, you need to slightly bend the wire arm.
After that, you should make sure that the right amount of water is collected in the tank. If not, bend the wire a little more. By raising the lever, you can increase the volume of water, lowering - reduce.
This option is only suitable for those tanks in which the float system uses metal.
In many modern models plastic parts are used instead of metal parts. Such levers cannot be bent, but the float itself can be moved along their axis using the mounting screw provided for by the design.
The float can be fixed with a thread or a latch. If a latch is used in the design, then it is squeezed out. To increase the volume of water in the tank, the float is moved closer to the valve body.
As a result, the length of the lever is reduced. If you need to lower the water level, the float is moved further from the body.
This is the simplest design of a cistern with a side water supply. Brass wire is used as a lever. Slightly changing the angle of its inclination, you can reduce the amount of water in the tank. If a meter is installed in the house, this great way savings on utility bills
Option # 2 - in tanks with a bottom supply
If the design is with a bottom water supply, it can be adjusted even more easily than a system with a side supply. The mechanism has a special water level limiter connecting the valve lever and the float. It can be lengthened or shortened.
The float on the limiter is fixed with a thread. To adjust the water level in the tank, you need to change its height with a plastic nut.
The main advantage of bottom feed designs is the ease of installation and maintenance. When repairing or replacing problems are extremely rare
How to diagnose problems?
If the cistern is faulty, it quickly becomes obvious: water either leaks into the toilet bowl or starts dripping onto the floor. Sometimes it happens that the container is not filled.
No matter how ultra-modern and complex the design of the tank is, breakdowns appear the same in all models.
External leaks are not always immediately visible. It happens that water drips out for weeks, but its amount is so small that the damp areas are not striking. Then the leak can be determined by the appearance of red spots and rust streaks.
If they are, it is worth disassembling the tank and establishing the cause of the breakdown.
If there is no coarse filter, dirt and rust particles constantly enter the tank. They accumulate in the tank and can damage the internal mechanisms of the structure, cause damage
Normally, the tank is filled to a predetermined level, and the rubber bulb is pressed against the drain hole, securely closes it and is held in this position due to water pressure. When you press the descent mechanism, this pear rises and opens the drain hole.
The rubber bulb must be constantly filled with air. To prevent water from getting into it, a special guide tube is provided in the design. She provides correct position pears in the "saddle".
If the integrity of the pear or tube itself is violated, the mechanism fails.
This is how the rubber pear of the tank should look like, if it is in working order. It should remain elastic and fit well to the saddle.
The first thing to do after disassembling the tank is to inspect the pear. If it has lost its elasticity, cracked, then it is in it that the cause of the leak lies. Worn rubber cannot cover the drain hole well, water leaks into cracks and gaps.
Rubber products of this type cannot be repaired, so the pear should simply be replaced.
If everything is in order with it, you need to make sure that particles of dirt and rust do not get under the rubber, which can also interfere with the normal operation of the pear.
There are cases when you can solve the problem of leakage by simply cleaning the tank. If it turns out that dirt has accumulated under the rubber bulb, it can be removed with a regular sponge. Often this is enough to restore normal operation. It also makes sense for prevention to wipe the walls of the container with a rag and remove plaque.
If the pear is in order, then you should continue to inspect the toilet tank in search of the cause of the leak.
The tank is not filled if:
- inlet hose defective;
- the inlet valve of the float mechanism is worn out.
Water can leak out if:
- the gasket between the tank and the toilet is worn out;
- a leak appeared at the place where the connecting screws were installed.
Internal leaks appear when:
- overflow tube not adjusted;
- valve is defective;
- float has failed.
All these components should be carefully checked, repair, adjust or replace damaged parts. How to disassemble the tank and find these elements is shown in the video:
Problem #1: Water does not enter the tank
How can you fix a toilet cistern if water has stopped flowing into it? This is not difficult. First of all, check the supply hose. It is disconnected from the tank and one end is lowered into a container.
If the water does not flow, you can simply buy and install a new hose.
Most often, the problem lies in the clogging of the narrow part of the valve. For repair, it is enough to empty the tank, turn off the water and unscrew the assembly consisting of a valve, lever and float.
When the parts are removed, a hole will open through which the container is filled. It is very often clogged. You can clean it with a regular needle or wire.
To spend complete cleaning, you need to remove the valve from the inlet pipe and wash off the remaining dirt with water.
Sometimes the cause of failure is a tiny piece of scale that has fallen into the hose, or dirt. You can try to rinse or clean it
Problem #2: External Leaks
If an external leak appears, you can repair the toilet bowl with your own hands and not call the master. Usually, problems arise due to a loose fit between the gasket between the toilet bowl and the tank, or if the seals under the screws are worn out.
In the first case, it is enough to remove the tank, check the gasket and, if it has become too hard or cracked, replace it.
It happens that the reason for such a leak is banal - the gasket is not installed correctly. Then it’s enough just to put it in place, or better, change it.
If there is a leak in the place of the connecting screws, then they need to be unscrewed and the rubber seals changed. To do this, it is not even necessary to remove the tank itself.
When choosing new seals, it is better to give preference to cone-shaped rather than flat ones. They adhere much more closely to surfaces.
When tightening the screws after replacing the seals, it is important to achieve an even distribution of forces in order to prevent distortions, otherwise a new leak may appear. To do this, tighten the screws little by little and in turn.
Problem #3: Fixing Internal Leaks
How to fix a cistern if water flows into the toilet bowl? To begin with, it is worth checking the correct setting of the overflow tube. It needs to be lifted a little and see if water is overflowing into the tube.
If yes, then the float valve needs to be repaired. If not, you need to adjust the lever.
Valve problems can arise from debris. You just need to remove it from under the gum.
If the rubber is worn out, you can simply turn it over on the other side, but it is better to change it right away. If the valve is broken, you will have to change it to a new one.
We offer a video instruction for replacing the fittings of the drain tank:
Problem #4: Tank noise when filling
Noise when filling the tank with water cannot be called a breakdown, because. all mechanisms are correct. However, loud noises can be very annoying, interfere with proper rest.
Most often, the tank is loudly typed immediately after draining the water, then the noise becomes less.
Solving the problem is very simple. To do this, a small piece of rubber or plastic tube is put on the branch pipe of the locking mechanism.
The length should be such that the tube reaches the bottom of the container. After that, the tank will make much less noise.
In addition to such a device, there are other ways to get rid of noise during the operation of the tank. The cardinal solution is to replace the conventional float valve with a stabilizing one with a special chamber. In this case, you can forever forget about the noise and relax in comfort.
Repairing a toilet cistern is a simple procedure. To fix all the malfunctions with your own hands, it is enough to have time, desire and the simplest tools.
However, sometimes there are difficulties with the diagnosis of breakdowns or the repair itself. In this case, it is better not to experiment and call a plumber.
It is impossible to imagine a comfortable home without a well-equipped toilet room, in which the toilet takes the central place. A significant part of this familiar object for us is the drain tank. It seems to be an absolutely unsightly container, which, by the way, is not always visible - sometimes it is built into the wall. However, as soon as the flush mechanism for the toilet becomes unusable, we immediately understand the importance of this item - a real disaster comes in the house.
The principle of operation of a mechanical flush
A toilet bowl without a well-thought-out drain system would functionally turn into an ordinary pot (well, or a night vase), which sooner or later would have to be emptied. Flushing with tap water frees us from unnecessary actions and makes the procedure for visiting the toilet quite comfortable.
One of the outdated models of the drain tank perfectly demonstrates the principle of operation: pressure on the lever - water release - automatic opening of the filling valve - water intake - valve closing
Water from the pipes through a flexible hose enters the drain tank, which is equipped with two mechanisms - filling and draining. Filling equipment allows water to accumulate in the tank, but only up to a certain level, then the supply valve closes.
The drain valve begins to function when we press the button (pull the chain or lever). A predetermined portion of water is poured into the toilet bowl at high speed, flushing all its contents into sewer pipe. As you can see, the principle of operation of the drain tank is simple and is based on the alternate action of the valves.
Not surprisingly, young children cannot answer the question: what is a cistern? They don't even know that this device is hiding behind the wall above the toilet.
So, let's try to understand the design that is inside the tank - it just refers to those things that are Everyday life we are completely oblivious.
Components of a drain tank
Knowing well the device of the toilet cistern, you can quickly repair it or, at least, purchase the failed parts yourself.
filling valve
Its purpose is to regulate the level of water in the tank and, as it decreases, supply the required amount. Once upon a time, they came up with an elementary water level indicator - a float, and it turned out to be such a successful invention that it is still an indispensable part of the fittings.
The original device looked like this: a brass rocker with a float at one end, and a valve with a rubber gasket that shuts off the water at the other. The modern design has changed a little, but the principle of operation has remained the same. The drain diagram clearly shows the interaction of all parts of the mechanism.
Construction details of the drain tank: 1 - filling valve; 2 - pear in a single block with overflow; 3 - handle (rod); 4 - float; 5 - water level
The float began to move vertically, and not be located horizontally, as before. Water began to flow into the tank faster, since the hole is completely open, and the shut-off valve closes it not gradually, but completely, but at the very end of the set. Another difference is that the valve is located at the bottom, and not at the side.
Drain and overflow system
All the latest modifications have come from one original version - the pear system. A more "ancient" design of the toilet cistern was equipped with a soft rubber pear that sealed the drain hole. It was worth pulling the lever - and the water rushed down with noise.
An example of an elementary toilet cistern device, where the filling mechanism is equipped with a plastic float on the rocker, and the drain system is equipped with a traditional rubber bulb
Now the drain device looks different. This is a fitting connected to the filling and overflow system. It starts functioning after pressing the button located in the cover. Widespread concern about saving water has led to another innovation - the button consists of two parts; by choosing one of them, you can provide a small or large drain.
The cistern fittings consist of plastic parts and rubber gaskets. In the event of a breakdown, you can purchase the entire kit or one of the parts separately in a plumbing store
The drain mechanism is combined with an overflow - insurance against overflow of the tank. If there is an excess of water, then it does not pour out, but goes straight into the sewer. According to experts, German drain fittings are of better quality, in the absence of it - Polish, which, moreover, costs much less.
Classification of cisterns for the toilet
There are several divisions into groups, and in one of them the classification is based precisely on the features of the toilet cistern mechanism.
So, there can be two locations for a button or lever:
- Lateral. It is more often used for tanks that are not mounted on the toilet shelf, but on the wall - at a certain height. With this device, the water is drained by pulling the chain.
- Upper. The button that activates the drain system is installed exactly in the middle of the tank lid.
The flush button for the wall-mounted cistern exists separately from it and is mounted directly above the toilet, being an example of a modern aesthetic approach
According to the material of manufacture:
- Cast iron. Until now, cast iron in our country is considered something very practical, so many people keep their rare treasures and do not want to change them for modern ones that are more comfortable and beautiful.
- Faience. The most popular, as they are part of the compact toilet. Familiar models, easily mounted on the toilet shelf, have many designs that differ in shape and color.
- Plastic. Containers built into the wall and therefore having an unusual, flatter shape.
Among the simple economical sanitary ware, you can find real masterpieces made in a variety of styles - from country to modern. True, the cost of these products starts from 20 thousand rubles.
By installation method:
- Top mount. The tank is mounted high on the wall, exactly above the toilet, and communicates with the toilet through a pipe. This method fastenings are outdated, however, there are several models of such a plan on sale, since the demand for them does not stop.
- Wall mounting. A modern way that requires a complete rework of at least one wall, because the tank will be hidden inside it. It seems that there is more space in the toilet, although the erected wall "steals" some part of the area.
- The cistern on the toilet shelf. The most common, familiar to all model. The good thing is that in the event of a breakdown, any malfunction can be quickly repaired.
Toilets with a cistern suspended high from the ceiling are not suitable for every interior, but they will look great in a retro-style dressing room
The flush tank is an integral part of the compact toilet. A faience pair is popular due to the variety of budget designs: for 4-5 thousand rubles you can buy an excellent set along with fittings
In our next article, you will learn about the causes of condensation on the tank and how to eliminate them:.
For the normal functioning of any toilet connected to a centralized system or, it is important to ensure the high-quality and uninterrupted operation of the cistern. It can be said without exaggeration that the quality of flushing food and biological waste, the degree of contamination of the inner surface of the toilet bowl, the functioning of the self-cleaning ability of the sewer, as well as the working volume, and the average daily level of consumption of water used, mainly depend on the correct setting and adjustment of this device.
Features of the drain system of the toilet bowl
overwhelming majority modern toilets equipped floor standing toilets compact systems, in which the flush tank is installed on a special ceramic platform, which is an integral part of the toilet body.
This arrangement minimizes dimensions device, moreover, provides sufficient pressure of drain water, and, if necessary, makes it possible to perform Maintenance toilet cistern with a do-it-yourself button, without asking for help from professional plumbers.
The internal device of the drain tank
Currently on the market building materials a wide range of plumbing fixtures is presented, the price of which largely depends on the manufacturer, the material of manufacture, the complexity of the internal fittings and the functional features of a particular device.
In order to independently repair a toilet tank with a button, you should be aware that, despite the apparent resemblance, all such devices can have different shutoff and drain valves, which in turn can be of several types.
- Top water supply with a side inlet pipe is most often used in low-cost models. This scheme allows you to quickly install and connect with your own hands, but it differs increased level noise generated by the pressure of the water.
- In the case of a bottom water supply, the device of the toilet bowl with a button is made in such a way that the inlet pipe and the float shut-off valve are located at the bottom. Installation and maintenance of such devices is a little more complicated, however, they have a more aesthetic appearance, and also differ low level noise when filling with water.
According to the principle of draining water, all devices are divided into two types: single-mode and dual-mode.
- Drain fittings of single-mode type provide for the descent of the entire volume of water with a single press of the drain button. She has more simple design than a two-mode system, but in some cases leads to excessive and inappropriate consumption of cold water.
- The release button of a dual-mode mechanism, as a rule, is divided into two unequal parts, which can move independently of each other in the case. When you click on the larger part, the entire volume of water is drained, and when you click on the smaller part, only half of the total volume of drain water enters the toilet bowl. The internal structure of a toilet bowl with a dual-mode type button is more complex, however, thanks to this design, significant savings in tap water are achieved.
Note! Some models of dual-mode fittings may have one common button, and portioned dosing of water can be adjusted by the duration or intensity of pressing it during flushing.
Repair of shut-off and control valves
The most common toilet flush failures can be a malfunctioning shutoff valve, or a malfunctioning drain valve.
In any case, to perform repairs, you need to know how to remove the toilet cistern lid with a button so as not to damage its body and break the fragile plastic parts of the internal fittings.
- First of all, it is necessary to close the stopcock, which is located between the supply pipeline and the reinforced flexible hose.
- Before opening the toilet tank lid with a button, you need to unscrew the outer chrome rim by hand along the thread, which is located at the junction of the button to the lid of the drain tank, pull it out, after which you can easily remove the top cover.
- The first thing you need to pay attention to the float. It must be absolutely tight, and not have visible damage and distortions, as well as traces of friction on inner surface or interior fittings. If any, it should be replaced.
- Next, you need to check the operation of the articulated lever, with which the float is attached to the shut-off valve. It should have a smooth vertical free play, without jamming and failures.
- To check the operation of the shut-off valve, you need to drain all the water from the tank, and then open the tap of the supply pipeline. When the float is lowered, water should flow freely into the tank, and when the float rises to the maximum level, the shut-off valve should completely block its flow.
- If water does not enter, clean the internal clearance of the shut-off valve, and if it does not overlap, replace the rubber seal, or adjust the position of the float articulated arm.
If significant faults are found, the easiest way is to buy and install a new set of valves. Such accessories are consumable, so they are sold at any hardware store and, as a rule, have a low cost.
Advice! To reduce the noise level when filling with water, a rubber or plastic tube must be installed and fixed on the outlet of the shut-off valve, the lower end of which should end at the very bottom of the drain tank.
Repair of the water drain system
In case of malfunction of the drain mechanism, before repairing the toilet bowl with a button, as in the first case, it is necessary to shut off the supply of tap water and dismantle the top cover.
- After removing the cover, the first step is to check the integrity of the plastic rod that connects the button to the shut-off valve of the drain mechanism. If any breakage or damage is found, it should be replaced.
- Next, you need to check the integrity of the rubber diaphragm of the drain siphon. Its destruction leads to a constant flow of water into the toilet. To replace it, there are special repair kits, however, in inexpensive models of tanks, it is better to immediately install a new siphon.
- The inner sleeve of the siphon rarely wears out, however, in case of breakage, a spare part can also be found in the repair kit, or a new siphon can be installed completely assembled immediately.
- Another reason for the incorrect operation of the drain may be the ingress of small debris, particles of rust, or fragments of internal fittings between the siphon bushings, connecting rods, levers, or other parts of the drain mechanism.
To eliminate such problems, it is enough to disassemble and rinse thoroughly with water, and then correctly assemble and reinstall all the parts of the internal shut-off valves.
Advice! For those who are interested in how to disassemble a toilet bowl with a double button, we can recommend the same method: first unscrew the round decorative rim around the button by hand, pry it off with anything sharp, and then remove the lid without any effort.
Conclusion
To get a visual representation of the internal structure of plumbing fixtures, you can watch the video in this article, or study similar materials on this topic on our website.
The flush mechanism itself comes complete with the toilet itself and the flush tank. However, choose the most robust design not as simple as it might seem at first glance. If you correctly understand this issue even before purchasing this device, you will be able to prevent the occurrence of a number of serious problems.
Types of drain mechanisms
To date, two types of drain devices can be found on sale:
In the first case, the drain is performed by emptying the entire tank, the second has two buttons in its design - they are responsible for pouring out a certain amount of water. This volume can be regulated, in addition, the use of such systems is quite justified, since water is seriously saved here.
Despite the fact that the type of drain mechanism may be different, it functions on the same principle. A little different is the transfer of the impulse of movement to the valve, which either opens or closes the hole through which the water leaves.
The principle of its operation depends on how this valve is arranged. Sometimes this valve is placed at the end of tubular drains that play the role of an overflow. In other cases, a similar design opens and closes thanks to special chains made of metal or plastic. The last type of design is far from the most successful, since such a system often fails.
Depending on who is the manufacturer of this device, the design can have quite serious differences. However, all these systems can be divided into two key components:
- Water drain system;
- Water supply system.
Due to the water collection system, the tank is filled. It is both lateral and lower. If the design has a bottom feed, then they are very convenient for several reasons. First of all, the main positive side is almost silent operation, but the design of this system is very complex.
It includes the following elements:
- Float vertical rod;
- thrust;
The water supply cut-off unit begins to work due to the thrust, which is connected to the buoy into one common structure, which at the same time is a water level limiter.
If water is supplied from the side, then this design will be more reliable, but when filling the tank it will make quite a lot of noise. Here the principle of operation of the entire system will be much simpler. There is a special membrane in the tank, due to which the supply and stop of water flow into the tank, as well as a small one connected to the supply tap by a lever.
When the tank is filled, the float rises and the lever begins to move, gradually shutting off the water supply when the required amount of water is collected.
Drain water from the tank from the top or side. The lateral design is used mainly for hanging cisterns, which are practically not used anywhere today. In most modern products, a drain system with an upper principle of water drainage is used.
As a rule, the trigger structure is a pear made of rubber or rubberized plastic. This equipment is not too expensive, but it is very reliable.
In order for water to pass from the drain tank directly into the toilet, a rod or a special button is placed on the lid, which will set the lever in motion. As stated before, modern systems drains in tanks can have one or two modes of operation.
The second type has two buttons, due to which either half of the tank or a full one is lowered. This option is the most suitable for people for whom saving water is not just empty words.
Toilet cistern installation options
In total, there are three key methods for installing a drain tank in an apartment or private house:
- Under the ceiling;
- Connection directly to the toilet itself;
- Installation in the wall of the toilet room.
Almost no one installs a drain tank under the ceiling, since for this you will need to buy the appropriate fittings. The key disadvantage of this system will be its not very convenient operation, however, water is both collected and drained under fairly good pressure. Today, this design is very rare, as it has been replaced by more attractive modern systems.
When the tank is connected directly to the toilet itself, then this technology will have a decent amount good points. In this case, the tank will be in a fairly convenient position - if necessary, carry out repair work you don't have to think about how to get to this device. It is also very convenient to control the tank, monitor whether everything is in order in it, and so on.
If the tank is planned to be installed in the wall, then you need to remember that this is a very time-consuming process. Of course, from an aesthetic point of view, this will be the most advantageous option, since a tank of this kind will be almost invisible, in addition, using this solution, you can seriously save usable space, which in sanitary unit lacks.
Adjustment, repair and replacement
Like any other design, the drain tank can break. There are quite a few causes of breakdowns, but some of them can be eliminated by yourself.
Malfunctions in the operation of the drain mechanism
If the drain mechanism has become unusable, this may be due to the following points:
- The intake valve is already very worn;
- There was a warping of the rocker arm;
- The buoy began to work incorrectly.
The buoy is constantly in the water, which is why long work cracks begin to form. This leads to water infiltration. Accordingly, the float begins to sink. To save yourself from this effect, the easiest way is to change this part.
If the lever is deformed, then it should be returned to the correct position, which should be approximately 2 cm below the hole from where water enters the tank.
The shut-off valve may simply not be able to handle the high water pressure, so you can just install a float valve.
Replacement
Replace any part in cistern not too difficult. Here it is only important to do the preparatory work:
- Shut off the water;
- Empty the sump.
After that, you can start working. Usually the float fails. It is held on the lever with a special clip. It will need to be unfastened and the float will separate from the structure. Instead, they put a new float and carefully turn on the water to establish whether it is securely held on the surface or not.
Changing the entire drain mechanism is also not too difficult - it is held in the tank by only two bolts that need to be unscrewed, and the mechanism will be easily removed. Installing new design, make sure that it is as tight as possible.
When installing the tank directly, it is best to first place all the appropriate fittings in it, check that it does not touch the walls of the tank there. Only after that you can install the tank in place, not forgetting to lay a special rubber sealing ring between it and the toilet to protect against leaks.
When installing a new structure, make sure that it is as tight as possible.
Adjustment
Usually the volume of incoming water is regulated, making sure that it does not overflow through the system and does not go into the toilet. To do this, the float is placed so that it is about a couple of centimeters lower than the edge of the reinforcement.
- Spare parts for the toilet should be of high quality;
- When purchasing gaskets, it is advisable to take silicone products - they are very durable and reliable, they will not dry out from time and water, like rubber.
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