Installing a toilet bowl on a tiled floor - step by step instructions (3 ways). Installation of a toilet bowl on a tiled floor Toilet bowl fastening to a floor on 4 bolts

The toilet bowl can be fixed to the floor in several ways, depending on the design of the base of the bowl, the type of fastening and the material of the floor itself. According to the type of fasteners, installation is distinguished on:

Mounting on dowels has a different sequence of work depending on the material of the floor.

Concrete, draft base

The most simple and fast way installation on a concrete base. Recommended for compact models. In this case, it is necessary to level the base cement-sand screed. The slightest distortion will affect the quality of the flush.

Installing on concrete has the added benefit that the 3 cm screed will act as a cushion for the bottom of the toilet bowl. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The toilet bowl is applied to the place of future fixing;
2. Dowel attachment points are marked;
3. Holes are drilled in the ceiling and plastic dowels are driven;
4. Sand-cement mixture, mixed in a ratio of 1: 2, is laid with a thickness of 4-5 cm;
5. The product is set in place and pressed down so that the excess solution comes out, and the main mass fills the cavity at the base of the sole.
6. Mounting screws are tightened.
7. It is possible to use only 24 hours after the complete hardening of the mixture.

Before installation, carefully position the product. The toilet is changed on average once every 10-15 years, so the wrong position can be quite annoying.

Tile installation

It is practiced when the repair in the bathroom has already been made and all communications are brought out. In this case, you should focus on the type of release of the product. A pedestal with an oblique outlet is recommended to be fixed as follows:

1. The location of future holes is marked;
2. Holes are drilled using a puncher. They should be slightly smaller than plastic dowels, at least 60-70 mm long.
3. Silicone sealant is poured into the holes to improve adhesion;
4. Silicone is applied to the entire sole of the pedestal. In several places, wooden or plastic mounting wedges or plates 2–3 mm thick are placed under the sole. This is done so that the silicone is not squeezed out from under the base.
5. Screws are baited, not reaching the end by 2-3ot.
6. A day later, after the sealant dries, the wooden wedges are removed and the screws are finally tightened. Thus, an elastic base is obtained, which will prevent cracking and chipping on the tile.
7. In the cracks that formed after the removal of the inserts, silicone is poured without fail.

To prevent the tile from bursting during drilling, the surface tension of the glaze layer is removed by punching the marked place with a core. 1-2 mm are drilled in drill mode and only then switches to puncher mode.

A pedestal with a direct vertical drain is installed in the same way, only a sealing gum is placed around the drain hole. This toilet mount may not be standard and must be purchased separately. Silicone is also applied along the contour.

It is recommended to lubricate the inner surface of the toilet outlet with red lead sealant.

Silicone, which is applied to the floor under the toilet, can be replaced with rubber sheet 2-3 mm thick. It is marked along the contour of the base of the pedestal, but cut off by 1–2 mm less. The gap formed between the base and the tile is covered with silicone or tile putty to match the one used for the bathroom. This is done so that the black stripe at the base is not visible.

Glue installation

This installation method is sometimes found if heated floors are made in the bathroom without calculating the products to be installed. Then it is no longer possible to drill the floor, and durable and secure fastening do necessary.

Glue is prepared as follows:

• Epoxy resin ED-6 is heated to a temperature of 50°C;
• A solvent is added, and a hardener is added;
• Constantly stirring, cement of a grade of at least M300 is added until a viscous homogeneous mass is obtained.

The mixture can be used within one and a half hours. The proportions of the composition - resin: solvent: hardener: cement - 100: 20: 35: 200.

Before application, the surface of the tile and the base of the pedestal is degreased with acetone or another similar substance. The composition is applied to the surface in an even layer, not exceeding 0.4 cm. You cannot use the toilet for 12-15 hours.

Reinstallation on taffeta

In the event of a violation of the integrity of the bowl or pedestal of the toilet bowl and the need to replace it, it may turn out that the base on which the old product was installed is significantly lower than the general floor level in the bathroom.

In this case, taffeta is fastened. This is a wooden or rubber lining, cut along the contour of the toilet bowl with holes for anchors 5–30 mm thick, depending on the depth of the recess. In the case of a tree, it is necessarily treated several times with antiseptics and water-repellent impregnations. You can even saturate it with used engine oil. The floor at the attachment point must be carefully leveled.

Side anchors

For some models, technological holes for mounting are not located vertically, but on the side of the pedestal at an angle of 90 °. In this case, special side mounts for the toilet bowl are provided. However, the order of installation and sealing of joints when using them does not change.

Varieties of fastening the toilet to the floor

Fixing the toilet to the floor various ways depending on the type of base and design of the pedestal. Use of anchors, adhesives and substrates.

Fixing the toilet to the floor

In this article, we will tell you about the popular ways to fix the toilet to the floor. It should be said right away that we will not describe the technology of concreting the toilet bowl, it is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Now the toilet is installed directly on the tile and it is important to understand the methods of its fastening.

Dismantling works

First of all, it is necessary to carry out dismantling work to remove the old device. All this work should not take long. First of all, the valve for supplying water to the tank is closed. After that, the nut on the hose is unscrewed. The tank is draining water. Next, the mount on the tank is dismantled.

After that, the fasteners on the toilet itself are dismantled. Usually these are anchors twisted into the floor. If you still have old toilet, then it can be cemented. In this case, you need to carefully break the screed and completely remove the old toilet.

If there are no plans for it or it is already flowing, then you can break the toilet itself, in which case the dismantling will be facilitated. But remember, this is acceptable if it is concreted!

During the dismantling process, be sure to follow the safety precautions so that the fragments do not damage unprotected areas of the body. Plus, you need to carefully remove the toilet from the sewer pipe. If it is damaged, the installation process may be difficult.

Foundation preparation

After complete dismantling, it is necessary to prepare the base for installing the toilet bowl. The amount of work will depend entirely on the quality of the floor. If there is a tile on it and you do not plan to replace it, then just make sure that it is securely held. If you remove the old tile and lay a new one, then you should not rush to install the toilet.

If the old device was concreted and a hole formed in the floor after its removal, then it must be completely cleaned and cemented. It is important to pay attention to the exit sewer pipe. It must be integral in order to exclude the possibility of leakage of sewage. If you have cast iron pipes, then immediately plan to replace the pipe with a plastic one.

Tools

To fix the toilet with your own hands, you need the appropriate tool. Most home craftsmen have it. In particular, you may need:

This is the main set of tools. Its configuration may vary slightly, depending on the method of installation.

Instructions for fixing the toilet bowl - 3 ways

So, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with three ways to fix the toilet:

Although the technology is different, the task remains the same - to securely fasten the toilet to the floor so that it does not fall during its operation.

With dowels

If you have a flat floor, then this method is the most common. But a perfectly flat tile floor is important here. If a small difference falls into the place of attachment, the toilet bowl may crack.

To prevent this from happening, you can put a rubber lining or a piece of old linoleum under the toilet. To cut it out, you need to put the toilet bowl on the material, circle the outline with a marker and then cut out the given shape.

After that, marking is carried out directly on the floor. In most cases, toilet bowls have two mounts. The markup process is as follows:

• Put the toilet in the intended place.
• Outline its outline on the floor.
• Place marks where the mounting hole will be drilled.
• You remove the device and apply a sealant to the floor, with which the lining selected and cut out by you will be glued.

While the sealant hardens, you can begin to make a hole. The quality of fastening will largely depend on the correctness of the selected drill diameter. It must fully correspond to the diameter of the dowel. You can drill through the gasket.

A plastic dowel must be hammered into the prepared hole. After that, we install the toilet in place and fix it with dowels. The device should be properly pulled, but moderately, otherwise the tab on the mount may break off.

For simplified installation, usually dowels for fastening are equipped with a special plastic gasket, which eliminates the possibility of a possible chipping.

At the next stage, the toilet is connected to the sewer, the tank is installed and the water is connected. When installing the tank, a rubber seal must be used. For greater probability, it can be smeared with silicone or other sealant. This will increase the quality of the docking and prevent water leakage during draining.

At the end of all work, it is recommended to treat the junction of the toilet bowl and the tiles on the floor with silicone sealant. This will prevent water leakage and dampness accumulation.

You can also fix the toilet with glue. This is especially necessary when there is underfloor heating technology. Various materials can be used as an adhesive, for example, epoxy glue, silicone and other sealants.

If epoxy adhesive is available, use it only if the floors are sufficiently smooth. The work process is as follows:

1. First, the floor surface must be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. Also, there should be no moisture that will interfere with good adhesion.
2. To ensure a high adhesion quality, the floor tiles can be roughened with a stiff brush.
3. Next, the surface is degreased with acetone or another solvent.
4. If the glue is ready, then it must be applied to the bottom of the toilet bowl, with a layer thickness of up to 4 mm.
5. Then bring the device to sewer hole, dock and at the same time install it in its place.
6. Putting the toilet on the floor, it must be pressed and left for half a day for the glue to harden.
7. Only when the glue has dried, you can connect the tank and water supply.

That's the whole technology of gluing the toilet bowl to the floor.

If you have a wooden floor, then this method of fixing the toilet is the most suitable. Taffeta refers to a special lining made of wood.

The thickness of the wood should be around 300 mm. In order to prevent rotting of this embedded part, it must be treated with drying oil and other anti-corrosion compounds without fail. The essence of this technology is as follows:

• Stuff nails onto the prepared timber so that they peek out of the taffeta by 30 mm.
• Next, a recess is prepared in the screed according to the size of the taffeta.
• Fill the hole with mortar.
• Attach the workpiece to the solution with the side where the nails stick out.
• As a result, it should be flush with the floor.
• It is necessary to give time for the solution to fully seize and get stronger.
• After 12 hours, you can fix the toilet with self-tapping screws directly into the wooden mortgage.

After that, the standard procedure for connecting the barrel is carried out. Additionally, you can smear the place where the toilet bowl joins the taffeta with silicone. This will eliminate the likelihood that moisture will flow under the sole and accumulate.

So, we looked at the two most common technologies for how to properly install a toilet on a tile. Also, in addition, we learned how to be if you have a wooden floor. As you can see, there are no particularly complicated processes. One of the main tasks is to choose the right fasteners.

Although in most cases, it comes with the purchased device. We hope that this material will help you deal with all the details of installing and fixing the toilet bowl on your own.

Mounting the toilet to the floor is easy to do with your own hands

No home can do without a toilet. To install it correctly, there are several simple ways. About this in our material.

How to fix the toilet to the floor: 3 ways to install the toilet

Installation of any plumbing equipment must be carried out taking into account certain building regulations and norms. For most people, it seems too difficult to carry out such an operation on their own. This is what companies that offer their installation services play on. various plumbing for quite a lot of money.

Although installing a toilet is one of the simplest operations. For its correct implementation, you need to know some of the subtleties of the process. This article will discuss how to properly fix the toilet to the floor so that it does not stagger by several methods.

Regardless of which method you decide to use to install the toilet, all work should begin with the assembly of the cistern. Drain mechanism assembled according to the instructions attached to the toilet, after which it must be installed in a specific place.

The preparatory stage also includes the arrangement of the water and sewer mains. As mentioned above, there is more than one way to fix plumbing. Its choice directly depends on the material with which the floor is finished.

This is the most common installation method. With it, you can mount plumbing quite quickly and without any extra effort. This method is best suited for smooth surfaces, so if you have a question, how to fix the toilet on tiled floor then read on carefully.

The method is suitable for flat and smooth surfaces, since even a minimal difference in height will significantly reduce the quality of installation. It should also be said that it is better to install lightweight models of toilet bowls on dowels, since the mounts may not support a significant weight of the product.

Experts in this field recommend putting the toilet on a special gasket, which you can make yourself from a sheet of old linoleum, rubber is also perfect for such purposes. To make a gasket, you need to put the product on a sheet of material, and then circle its leg with a marker, pen or pencil. After that, cut the gasket according to the markup.

You can use a utility knife or scissors. Plumbing equipment is placed on the floor and securely fixed with dowels or fasteners. Fasteners, in most cases, come with the toilet, but if you have a different situation, you can purchase them at any specialized store.

After the gasket is made, the floor surface should be marked. To do this, you need to put the toilet in the intended installation location and circle it with a contour, after which the sealant should be applied without leaving the contour. It is better not to overdo it and apply a small layer of consumables.

A gasket must be installed on top of the sealant, which should be firmly glued after the sealant dries. This design is durable and reliable, although in some cases it is permissible to install a toilet without a gasket.

Now you need to start drilling holes.

To facilitate all future installation work, it is necessary to approach this operation with all responsibility. The gasket must be glued firmly and precisely to the installation site of the product, and the resulting holes must be minimally different from the drill in terms of diameter.

This is necessary so that fasteners can then be used correctly, and a reliable rubber gasket will become a buffer zone between the floor covering and the toilet.

In some cases, it may be necessary not only to install plumbing equipment, but also to change its height by several centimeters. Such a need arises if there are several units of this equipment in the room, the last of which should be raised by 4 centimeters.

For these purposes, use wooden board for arranging the stand. It must be made in the same way as a gasket made of rubber or linoleum, then “plant” wooden product on the sealant, apply a layer of sealant on it and put a gasket on top of the resulting structure. If everything is done exactly according to the size of the toilet legs, you will get a reliable design.

Holes for fasteners must be drilled directly into the gasket or stand. It is important to remember that tightening fasteners to installed toilet needs to be done very carefully. Here you can not rush and overdo it, since there is a possibility of significantly damaging the surface of the toilet leg.

As fasteners, large metal dowels or special elements for installing plumbing are used. Special elements are very often supplied with the toilet. It should be said right away that the quality of contact between the product legs and the floor is the same when using any of the listed options.

Insert dowels into the holes drilled in the gasket and hammer them in. After that, you need to mount the plumbing equipment and secure it with fasteners. Be aware of the tightening force, which should not be excessive.

Now you need to connect the plumbing equipment to the sewer line. Particular attention must be paid to the corrugated pipe. Its sides must be covered with a silicone compound. One of them must be connected to the main, and the second to the outlet at the back of the toilet.

The contact area of ​​the corrugated pipe with the product and the line must be carefully treated with a silicone-based compound. In some cases, additionally use tape with metal coated. The last step in installing the toilet will be connecting to the water main. Here you only need to firmly screw the hose to the pipe. After that, the device can be used instantly.

Method number 2: mounting on glue

If you do not know how to fix the toilet to the tile without drilling and bolts, then the following information will surely be of interest to you. This method very simple and does not require qualifications or extensive experience from the employee, but here you need to be patient, since the method is very time consuming.

It takes about 14 hours for the epoxy adhesive, which is used for plumbing installation, to completely dry. This method is also used in the case of smooth and flat surface, since the difference in height will not allow you to create a strong contact of the product with the floor covering. Like the first method, this one is used mainly for tiles.

The method is very simple to perform. First you need to thoroughly clean the contact area from dust and dirt. tile it is also better to process with emery to increase the adhesion of the material. After that, you need to degrease the contact surface with acetone or any other solvent.

Now you need to start making glue. In principle, it is possible to purchase a ready-made adhesive composition, but if the budget is small, it is better to save money and do everything yourself. For preparation, you will need 100 parts of epoxy resin ED-6, 35 parts of hardener, 20 parts of solvent and 200 parts of cement. At this stage, it is very important to maintain the correct proportions.

The epoxy resin must be heated to 50 degrees Celsius, after which the solvent is poured into it, the next ingredient is the hardener, after which cement had to be added to the mixture. During the preparation of the composition, it must be constantly stirred. As a result, a plastic and homogeneous mass should form. To enhance the effect, you should first lubricate the contact area with glue, and then apply the epoxy solution.

The composition, which has come out under the pressure of the installed device, must be immediately wiped with a damp cloth. If the composition was prepared according to the rules, then it can be used for no more than one and a half hours, since then it seizes and loses its plasticity. The solution must be applied to the toilet leg in such a way that the composition layer is 4 millimeters, and the area on which the composition was applied is at least 25 square centimeters.

Now you need to install the toilet in the right place and connect the corrugated pipe to the sewer system. As in the previous case, a silicone compound must be used to seal the contact area of ​​the corrugated pipe. Then you need to apply force and press the product to the floor as tightly as possible, and then leave it alone for 14 hours.

Sewer connection

During the entire period, it is not recommended to even touch the device, since you can move it from its place, and you will have to repeat everything from the beginning. At the end of this period, you only need to connect the product to the water main, and you can start using it. Now you know how to properly fix the toilet to the tile.

In most cases this method used when you want to mount the toilet on wooden base. Taffeta is a gasket made of durable wood, on which plumbing equipment will be installed. The thickness of the board from which the gasket is made should be 3 centimeters. It is carved from wood in the same way as in the previous two cases. After that, the gasket must be impregnated with drying oil in order to increase its protection against moisture.

Installation on taffeta

For a stronger contact, it is necessary to mount the anchors on the rear side of the gasket. As practice shows, it is best to drive in a few nails in a checkerboard pattern. The nails should protrude approximately 3 centimeters. Before fixing the toilet bowl to the wooden floor, it is necessary to fill the niche for its installation with concrete, and then put a prepared gasket into it, which must be drowned in the solution so that it does not protrude above its level.

Then you need to let the solution dry, it will take about 12 hours. The product is attached to the gasket with screws. Rubber washers must be placed under the fasteners. This is done in order to exclude the possibility of damage to the surface of the toilet during tightening of the fasteners. According to the opinion of professionals in this field, it is better to process the fasteners with graphite or grease, so that if necessary, they do not have to be removed without extra effort.

Also, instead of wood, it is permissible to use rubber, the thickness of which should be 1.5 centimeters.

In conclusion, it should be added that if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to trust the experts. So you will spend more money, but you will be sure of the quality of the installation of plumbing equipment.

How to fix the toilet to the floor: the most common mounting methods

How to fix the toilet to the floor: 3 ways to install the toilet. Step-by-step instructions for installing plumbing equipment and recommendations from experts.

Fixing the toilet to the floor: analysis of 3 "correct" technological methods

Installation of plumbing equipment is carried out in strict accordance with building rules and regulations. Home craftsmen often experience fear of such work. This is used by service companies that request very decent money for performing fairly simple operations. Meanwhile, fixing the toilet bowl to the floor is an activity that is quite affordable for independent implementation. It is only important to carefully read the existing work technologies, choose the most suitable one, and follow all the instructions exactly.

Regardless of the chosen method of attaching the toilet bowl, installation work begins with the assembly of the cistern. The device is assembled in accordance with the instructions and fixed in place intended for it. Also, before installing the toilet, the units for supplying and discharging water must be prepared. There are several methods for attaching devices. The main selection criterion is the floor material on which the equipment will be installed. Let's take a closer look at the most common methods.

Method number 1: installation on dowels

The most practical method that allows you to install the device with the least effort and time. It is optimal for use on a flat, smooth surface, since the slightest height difference adversely affects the quality of the flush. It is preferable to use this method of fastening for lightweight compact structures, since the fixation may not be entirely reliable. Plumbers advise installing equipment on a special gasket, which you can easily make yourself from old linoleum or a sheet of thin rubber. The toilet bowl is installed on the workpiece, circled around the contour with a marker. After that, with a sharp knife or just scissors, the gasket of the desired shape is cut out.

The device is fixed to the floor with dowels or special plumbing fasteners. Fasteners usually come with new equipment. It can also be purchased from specialized stores.

Now we need to markup. We “try on” the toilet bowl on the place prepared for the equipment and draw it around the contour. We remove the device. We apply a thin layer of sealant and glue the gasket on it. This design will be the most reliable, although some masters prefer to do without a substrate at all. You can start drilling holes for fasteners. As practice shows, if you stick the gasket with high quality and choose the diameter of the drill so that the holes for the fasteners are slightly larger than it, then further installation will be much easier. This is due to the fact that the rubber backing acts as a kind of "contact spot" for the floor and the device.

It happens that it is required not only to fix the toilet bowl to the floor, but also to raise it a little. This is true if there are several devices in the apartment. Then the last one in the system needs to be raised by about 3-4 cm. In this case, a piece of a two-inch board is used, which is used as a stand. It is cut exactly along the contour of the toilet and placed on the floor, a rubber substrate is placed on top of it. All this is sealed with a sealant and forms a reliable and durable structure. Holes for fasteners are drilled directly on the gasket.

Tighten the mount on the base of the toilet very carefully. Excessive force can damage the ceramics from which the device is made.

As fasteners, you can use long metal dowels or special plumbing fixtures. The latter usually come with new equipment. The quality of fixing they have is about the same, so you can use both options. We drive dowels into the holes prepared in the floor. We install the toilet and carefully screw it. It must be remembered that excessively strong tightening of the ceramic from which the device is made can be damaged.

Method number 2: mounting on glue

Of all the methods for fixing a toilet to the floor, this one is the easiest, but also the most time consuming. For the curing of the epoxy mixture, which is used as an adhesive, it takes about 12-15 hours. This method can only be used for smooth surface. Most often it is used to fix equipment on floor tiles. The method is very easy to perform. First, both surfaces to be bonded must be well cleaned of dust and debris. floor tiles can be sanded to make it rougher. This will improve the adhesion of the material. Surfaces are degreased with any solvent or acetone.

Preparing glue. You can buy ready-made epoxy or make your own. To do this, you need to take 100 parts of epoxy resin ED-6, 200 parts of cement, 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer and 35 parts of hardener. The order in which the components are added to the solution is important. First, the resin is heated to 50C, a solvent is added to it, then a hardener, and at the very end - cement. The composition must be constantly stirred to form a plastic, homogeneous mass.

To keep the toilet securely in place, flooring prepared: cleaned for better adhesion and lubricated with a small layer of glue. Excess composition, speaking under the weight of the equipment, is immediately removed with a damp cloth.

Properly prepared adhesive mixture can be used within one and a half hours. We apply it to the base of the toilet bowl so that the solution covers an area of ​​at least 20 square meters. cm, and the layer thickness was at least 4 mm. We install the prepared equipment in the right place, combining the sewer socket with the outlet, and press it to the floor with force. After that, the device is left for at least 12 hours. This period is necessary for the curing of the adhesive composition. During this time, it is not recommended to even touch the toilet. Then we connect the equipment to the water supply and sewerage.

Method number 3: taffeta mount

Most often, this method is used to install toilets on a wooden floor. Taffeta is a pad of durable wood to which equipment is attached. The thickness of the board from which the element is cut, corresponding to the shape of the toilet support rack, should be 28-32 mm. To protect the part from dampness, it must be carefully treated with drying oil. For reliable fixing to the floor from the bottom of the taffeta, an anchor is mounted. The simplest option is nails driven in a checkerboard pattern, which should protrude from the part by 2-3 cm. The recess prepared for installing the toilet is poured cement mortar. Taffeta is sunk down into it with anchors. As a result, it should be flush with the floor.

After approximately 12 hours, during which the mortar is completely dry, you can proceed to fixing the equipment. The device is fixed with screws. Rubber washers must be placed under their heads, which will prevent possible damage to the toilet frame when tightened. Experts advise lubricating the screws with grease or graphite before work, so that later, if necessary, they can be easily unscrewed. Wood taffeta can be replaced with a rubber backing. It is cut from sheet material 5 to 15 mm thick, possibly even from an old rubber mat. Such a substrate should be 1-2 cm smaller than the toilet support column.

Mounting the toilet on taffeta involves the use of a special wooden insert. The diagram shows all the elements of such a mount.

There are various ways to attach a standard toilet bowl to the floor. They differ significantly in complexity and time spent on installation work. It is important to choose the right fastening method. It depends on the material from which the floor is made in the room. Installation work can be carried out independently, but if there is no experience or desire, it is better to turn to professionals. They will quickly and competently carry out all the work, guaranteeing a long and flawless service of the new equipment.

Properly fixing the toilet to the floor: 3 ways to fix the toilet to the floor

Proper fastening of the toilet to the floor can be done independently. Consider the technology of securing equipment in the three most common ways.

With "straight" hands, most of the housework can be done independently. This category of work includes the installation of a toilet bowl. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done by hand.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation - a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the features of the flush or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.

According to the installation method

The toilet itself consists of a sanitary bowl and a drain tank. The bowl can be floor mounted or suspended. If the bowl is hanging, then the tank goes concealed installation- built into the wall. In the case of a floor bowl, there are three options for fixing the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected with a flexible hose, in the installation (hidden in the frame wall).

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush cistern is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to the hanging one, it takes up more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, the installation of suspended models is complicated - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps it is only during the repair.

Release to the sewer

The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet is optimal. If the exit is in the floor, but is close to the wall, the oblique toilet is most convenient. Horizontal option universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected both to the wall and to the floor.

Installing a toilet bowl with a compact cistern (floor version)

They usually bring a toilet bowl, a cistern separately from the store, drain device and float. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a "compact" cistern consist of?

Assembly

The process begins with the installation of a drain device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in a hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drain device and the tank.

WITH reverse side the plastic washer that comes with the kit is screwed onto the nozzle. It is tightened by hand, then - using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held by hand.

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included in the standard package. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, put on rubber gaskets, then the washers and only then tighten the nuts.

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “planted” on a sealant. First we coat it on one side, put it on the toilet bowl, coat it on the other, put the tank.

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers, nuts on the screws from below, tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Next, we put a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes in the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We wind a little flax on the outlet pipe, coat it with sanitary paste, install a corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not clog that the pipe is made of plastic.

Installing a tee

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, you can put it in place. The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage by means of a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that fit snugly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted all the way. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference on a dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then a corrugation is inserted. For greater certainty, you can go through the sealant on the outside of the joint.

In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.

The second end of the corrugation is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Everything is so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with soap moistened with water, only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, it will be problematic to remove the toilet without damaging the corrugation. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, rather than trying to move a partially fixed device.

Putting the corrugation on the outlet, we expose the toilet as it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is a place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, correct the position. Then they take a pencil or marker, inserting it into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.

Having removed the toilet bowl, holes for the dowels are drilled in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately put powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on a tile so that it does not crack, it is better to pierce the glazed surface. They take a self-tapping screw, mark it, hit it with a hammer several times. This is what is called "pinching". Then they take a drill or a puncher and drill a tile, turning off the shock mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.

Put in holes plastic stoppers from dowels. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust at the installation site of the toilet. We put it in place, insert the dowels into the holes, twist them with the appropriate key. It is necessary to tighten the bolts alternately on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet becomes firmly, without play.

The final touch is the connection to the water supply. Connect outlet water pipe with a tap installed on it with a corner on the tank, which was connected earlier. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are union nuts (American), so there will be no problems with fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall hung toilet with installation

For installation wall hung toilets the outlet of the sewer pipe should be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - from the far edge of the order of 13-15 cm. If the exit from the floor, there is a solution - a special overlay with which the drain is transferred closer to the wall.

The installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with fixing the stops to the wall to the installation frame. They are attached two at the top and at the bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.

The upper stops are in the form of rods, adjustable with a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The bottom stops are more like plates, they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with a side head.

The assembled frame is attached to the wall, its center is exposed above the middle sewer exit. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

With help bubble level the horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for the wall-mounted toilet bowl is checked.

Checking the horizontal

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, set by the manufacturer, is set. How convenient it is to do, look at the photo.

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. In appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drill holes. They are equipped with plastic housing dowels. Most of the hanging toilets are imported, and they recommend planting the dowel bodies on the sealant. V drilled hole some of the sealant is squeezed out, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic case.

In a fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - branch pipes, couplings. They are all included and simply snap into place.

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be held. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (in the lower photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

The sewer pipe extends to the desired distance, is fixed in a predetermined position with a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it is latched), the plug on the side surface is removed. Right or left - depends on where you have water. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, the counterpart is inserted from the inside, everything is connected with a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without applying excessive force - it is plastic.

A tee is installed inside the tank, a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. They do this with the help of an adapter and an American.

A hose from the tank is connected to a special tee inlet. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a cap nut.

Install the cover in place. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall of moisture-resistant drywall. It is recommended to put two sheets, but you can use one. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

The toilet bowl is put on the pins, its outlet goes into the plastic socket. The connection is tight, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet with the installation.

For high-quality finishing of the bathroom or toilet room, it is necessary to dismantle all foreign elements that interfere with the finish. It should be understood that the dismantling of plumbing fixtures is required not only on the basis of convenience, but also in order to preserve their integrity. After the completion of the repair work, the question arises: how to install the toilet on the tile?

In contact with

classmates

Getting ready to install a toilet

Installation of a toilet bowl on a ceramic tile is made by several methods. But for any of them, you will need the same installation tools and materials. To successfully complete the installation procedure, you must also have some tools available:

• pencil - used for marking;
• screwdriver - it is desirable to have a set of screwdrivers;
• rubber;
• hammer;
• special drills of two types: designed for drilling glass and concrete;
• you also need a tool for drilling - simple or heaped - it does not matter;
• center punch - a tool that marks holes for a drill;
• wrench.

If you have the necessary tools, then there is little left to do - materials:

• naturally, the installation object itself is needed - a toilet bowl;
• means connecting the sanitary ware with sewerage and water supply systems:
  • corrugated or fan pipe;
  • flexible hose or copper tube;
  • tap for opening / closing the water supply;
• any sealant to ensure the tightness of threaded joints;
• sealant;
• dowel.

Installation of a toilet bowl on a tile can be done by a hidden method, or open. The difference is in the placement of the fasteners: inside the base and outside, respectively.

How to fix the toilet with an open method?

First of all, it is necessary to mark with a pencil the location of the future location of the toilet bowl. How to do it? We “try on” the toilet bowl to the intended place, then mark the attachment points with a simple pencil, and also circle the base of the toilet bowl. What errors can be made when working with a pencil? Marking offset will affect the holes you actually made, which threatens to mismatch with the mounting sinuses.

The next step is to remove the toilet from the working plane for a few minutes and drill holes according to the marks you made.

We will install the toilet on the tile a little later, and now we will take a center punch in our hands, with which we will scrape off a little tile glaze at the fastener mark.

Note!

If this is not done, then the drill will slide on the tile, which will damage the flooring.

Next, a glass drill should appear in our hands, which can easily overcome a fairly massive ceramic tile, though not without the help of a puncher or drill. After the resistance of the tile has been suppressed, our drill will rest against a structure that is insurmountable for it - concrete. This is where a drill designed for concrete comes into play, which needs to drill a hole for the entire length of the purchased dowel.

After cleaning the hole from foreign objects, pour sealant into it, which plays the role of insulation from water, and insert it.

So it's time to fix the toilet to the tile, but before that, go through the pencil marks with sealant. What is it for? Sealant is an excellent barrier to moisture accumulation. Then we install the toilet bowl and fix it with fasteners.

Drill tiles carefully

Installation of a toilet bowl with a closed method

Before starting the toilet installation procedure, it is necessary to make outlets that will lead to the sewer, as well as from the water supply. Position the holes as close as possible to the plumbing fixture to be installed.

All actions are similar to the previous method. All the difference lies in the secrecy of the fasteners. Here they will not be conspicuous. We string the toilet on the fasteners and fix it with bolts through the side holes.

The decision on how to fix the toilet to the tile is up to you. But no matter which method you choose, experts advise not to overtighten the bolts, as adjustment may be required when connecting to sewer and plumbing systems.

All excess sealant that has come out is carefully scraped off with a spatula.

The toilet has a "warm floor". What to do?

Today, the "warm floor" system is quite common, not only in toilets and bathrooms, but throughout the house. As you could already understand, if such a system exists, then it is impossible to drill tiles. Why? Because heating system will be damaged and will no longer function.

But do not despair - there is a way out. Since you can't drill, you'll have to glue. Only a couple of questions remain: what and how?

Regardless of the adhesive material, toilet and tile processing is required sandpaper. With light movements of the hand, we give a slight roughness to the lower plane of the plumbing element and the tile. This is a mandatory action, since when they are performed, the best contact of the floor with the toilet is observed.

As an adhesive material, you can use epoxy resin, silicone glue or liquid nails.

Mounting hole should be small.

Adjustment of water supply

Connection to the water supply is carried out in two ways: closed and open.

The closed method is also more aesthetic than the open method. In order to connect the toilet to the water supply, we need a flexible hose or copper tube.

Note!

The copper pipe usually comes with the toilet, but it is rigid, which makes it impossible to change position.

But the flexible hose is flexible for that - you can change the position and not greatly depend on the position of the device.

The water pipe requires special concentration of your attention. If the pipe thread is internal, you will need to supply the system with an additional adapter, which should be isolated from the seal to prevent leakage.

The final step is to check for leaks on all fronts. By opening the water tap, waiting until water is drawn into the barrel, and by flushing, you can find places through which water seeps. If there is no leak, then you can tighten the bolts that secure the toilet to the tile until it stops.

Give access to the sewer

When the installation of the toilet bowl on the tile is completed, the stage begins to give life to the device - connection to the sewer and water systems. After all, without them, the toilet bowl cannot perform its functions.

To connect the toilet to the sewer, we need a corrugation. The corrugation is good because it allows you to change the distance of the toilet bowl from the outlet, as well as change the angle of inclination. Inside it is a rubberized membrane that fits snugly, both to the outlet of the toilet and the outlet of the sewer. Carefully connect the toilet to the sewer using.

After the manipulations, you can proceed with the installation, which in turn will be connected to the water supply. Use silicone or plastic washers to keep the bolts from coming into contact with the faience of the toilet.

How to fix the toilet to the tile video:

In contact with

See inaccuracies, incomplete or incorrect information? Do you know how to make an article better?

Would you like to suggest photos for publication on a topic?

Please help us make the site better! Leave a message and your contacts in the comments - we will contact you and together we will make the publication better!

Finishing the toilet with tiles almost always occurs in the absence of plumbing units - a toilet bowl and accessories. This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to lay the tiles “round” later. Difficulties will also arise when laying ceramics on the walls - the toilet will simply interfere. Therefore, the installation of "amenities" is planned after the completion of all finishing works. There are several ways to install plumbing.

Preliminary preparation for installation

The work comes down to marking the place for the toilet itself, removing the sewer drain and pipes with cold water. The ends of the drainage and filling system must protrude from the surface by at least 15 cm, otherwise a high-quality connection will not work and work will also have to be done to build up the pipes. To prevent this from happening, a sufficient distance is taken care of at the stage of rough alignment of the walls and floor.

Tools and materials

In addition to the toilet, you will need:

1. Corrugated drain pipe.
2. Water hose for cold water and ball valve to the pipeline.
3. Tape-fum or tow.
4. Sealant or epoxy. For decorative embedding - the remains of grout from the tile.
5. Drill with drills for ceramics and concrete.
6. Wrench.
7. Screwdrivers.
8. Kern.
9. Pencil, chalk.
10. Spatula, cleaning products.

Fasteners, as a rule, are included in the toilet bowl package. If this is not provided, anchor bolts are purchased in accordance with the diameters of the holes. It is important to purchase them in an anti-corrosion design - leaks or condensation in the toilet are inevitable, which will certainly respond with rust.

Method of fixing the toilet bowl to the tile No. 1

Least costly in terms of effort. Suitable for mounting a toilet bowl with "ears" - the lower parts with drilled technological holes for fastening. The algorithm is the following:

• The toilet is installed in the desired location. It is important to estimate the distance of the drain hole to the sewer pipe in order to stretch the corrugation effortlessly. The contours of the pedestal are outlined with chalk and the centers of the holes are marked with a pencil, setting it strictly perpendicular to the floor. Otherwise, there is a risk of moving the plumbing while tightening the bolts.
• At the marked points, the tile coating is knocked down with a core. So, the drill will not slip off the mark during operation. To do the job carefully, it is recommended to moisten the place for stuffing.
• Drill holes for the bolts and try on the toilet in place. If everything suits, the plumbing is removed and a sealant or resin is applied along the contour of the chalk line. So, it is possible to avoid moisture under the toilet bowl in the future. All holes for fasteners are filled with sealant to seal the fasteners and waterproof the concrete.
• Install the toilet along the contour and begin to tighten the bolts. They act evenly so as not to move the plumbing. The sealant squeezed out under the weight is immediately cleaned with a spatula. After installation, the sealant strip is decorated with grout.

It remains to mount the components - corrugation, tank - and connect the entire structure to the cold water pipeline.

Method of fixing the toilet bowl to the tile No. 2

Installation of a toilet bowl without protruding elements is distinguished by the aesthetics of the result. It is somewhat more complicated and it is impossible to do the work correctly without an exact algorithm. So:

• A distinctive feature of the design will be the drain holes of the sewer system as close as possible to the plumbing. To do this, first carry out a set of works with pipes. It is advisable to do this before finishing the bathroom with tiles.
• Further, similarly to the first method, the contour of the base is outlined and marks are set for fasteners.
• Part of the toilet - a hidden mount - is installed on the floor. It is screwed to the floor with bolts, the holes for which are pre-drilled. The installation is rigid, it is impossible to allow displacement, therefore, the fasteners are wrapped in turn, constantly monitoring the contours.
• Then, the toilet is inserted into the lower part and secured through the side factory holes. You should not be zealous - there will be an adjustment during the installation of the sewer.

After the design is fully assembled and satisfies in operation, the fixing bolts are closed with decorative plugs and the toilet bowl takes on the appearance of solid ceramics. Installation is simple, but requires care.

Way of fastening of a toilet bowl No. 3

In the event that the toilet has a heated floor with water or electrical system, drilling holes for fasteners cannot be done - there is a risk of violating the integrity of the waterproofing or wire. In this case, fastening occurs using adhesive mixtures- resin, liquid nails, silicones with additives. How to do it right:

• The outline of the plumbing base is outlined.
• Rough sandpaper or a narrow special diamond wheel is removed upper layer tiles to create a rough surface. This will provide better adhesion to the pedestal. Similar work is carried out with the toilet.
• A layer of fixing composition is placed thick, at a distance of 2-3 mm from the outlined contour. This is necessary in order for the bulk to remain inside. Extrusions are removed immediately, otherwise you can get rid of them only together with ceramic tiles. The joints between the floor and the edge of the base are rubbed with a decorative composition.

That's actually all the processes. They are inaccessible to amateurs, especially if the tile is expensive, it is better to outsource the work to professionals who give a guarantee for their own installation. If, nevertheless, it is decided to do it on your own, then training on a piece of tile is necessary.

The procedure for attaching components to the toilet

First, a corrugation is mounted to the outlet and to the sewer riser. You should not skimp on the quality when buying - it ensures the tightness of the drain and the prevention of unpleasant amber in the room. Then, a tank is installed on the toilet bowl using the bolts included in the kit. Next, the installation of the plumbing structure to the water supply is carried out. Only in this way will proper operation be ensured.

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor: video

To help home master offered video material with detailed process do-it-yourself toilet installation. We hope the instructions are helpful.

According to the current SNiP, the installation of plumbing equipment (including the toilet) is carried out in compliance with certain rules, which guarantees a long operating time. Many companies provide installation services, but you can do this operation yourself and save decent amounts.

Before we figure out how to attach the toilet to the floor, let's get acquainted with their known types and find out the design features.

Toilets differ in the following characteristics:

• the device of the tank and the drain bowl, the method of their articulation;
• sewage flow direction (direct or lateral);
• the material from which the toilet is made;
• dimensions and total weight.

When considering the installation of toilets in this class, the focus is on the first point (that is, design differences).

Reliable fastening of the toilet bowl to the floor can be obtained provided that its design features are taken into account.

These plumbing samples are of two types:

• models with a tank, which is mounted on the ledge of the bowl from its back side
  (the water tank is adjacent in this case directly to the wall of the toilet);

• monoblocks, in which the bowl and drain tank are made as one module, do not
  with detachable parts.

The advantage of the combined version or monoblock is the ease of maintenance of the toilet, including its repair. To this should be added the relatively low noise of the flushing procedure in comparison with a typical separate design.

The disadvantages of this class of plumbing fixtures include a noticeable decrease
pressure of the drain mass.

Let's figure out how to fix the toilet bowl to the floor in the toilet.

There are three methods:

1. mounting on dowels (bolts),
2. on glue
3. taffeta fixation.

Let's consider each of these toilet attachment methods in more detail.

Mounting with dowels (bolts)

This method is the most practical and does not require large expenditures. He also
provides a secure mount for the toilet, provided that the floor screed
prepared for installation.

Small irregularities do not impair the tightness of the installation, since in this case an elastic gasket can be used.

Fixing the toilet bowl to the floor with bolts is suitable for both conventional structures and
light, compact, that is, this option can be considered universal.

Bolts for fixing the toilet to the floor allow you to get a tight connection,
if a sealing gasket cut from a piece of linoleum is used
or elastic rubber.

These blanks are placed under it, and then outlined along the contour with a marker. Immediately after this sharp knife (sometimes scissors are used for this), a sealing element is cut out, corresponding in shape to the supporting part of the product.

Before fixing the toilet to the floor, markings are made on the surface of the screed
specially for dowels, into which the hardware is then “driven”. The latter are usually included
included with the device to be installed. In their absence, special bolts for
floor mounts are available from a hardware store.

The order of further operations looks like this:

• First, a purchased toilet is placed on an already prepared place for fitting, and
  then outlined along the contour with the same marker.
• Then the toilet is removed, and the marked place is coated with a sealed composition,
  on which the previously prepared gasket is glued.
  Additional Information: in some cases it is possible to do without sealing, but for this the floor surface in the toilet must be well leveled beforehand.
• Before attaching the toilet to the prepared surface, you need to
  prepare holes for metal dowels, for which a drill with
  diameter slightly larger than the size of the hardware.
• Then the same holes are made at pre-marked points.
  glued pad.
• Now it will be possible to hammer the dowels into them and carefully install them on the gasket
  toilet for subsequent fixation.
• Bolts for fixing the toilet to the floor should be screwed in very carefully, without
  efforts, being careful not to damage the ceramics.

Violation of this rule when handling tools and hardware can lead to
the appearance of cracks or chips in the attachment points.

This is unacceptable - the bowl will then become unusable. After fixing, they proceed to the connection to the sewer, paying special attention to connecting the corrugation of the drain channel.

To form a tight connection, its ends are liberally lubricated with silicone,
one of them is inserted into the socket of the sewer outlet, and the second is put on
outlet neck. In the course of installation, the joints are carefully crimped with palms,
which will allow the hermetic composition to quickly soak into the material of the corrugations and form
reliable contact.

To obtain a tight connection, the place where the toilet bowl is drained can be additionally sealed with metallized tape.

At the end of all these operations, it's time to connect the plumbing
outlet, and the plumbing fixture is completely ready for operation.

Glue fixation

A reliable mount for the toilet can also be designed with the help of an adhesive composition,
bought ready-made or prepared with your own hands.

This method is considered the simplest, but at the same time fastening without bolts will require a lot of time (it takes 12–15 hours for the epoxy adhesive to fully cure).

Another condition for obtaining reliable fastening is as follows. Before as
glue the toilet to the floor, you will need to carefully level the surface of the screed or
cover it with thick floor tiles.

When figuring out how to glue the toilet to the floor or tiles, preference is usually given to special epoxy resins, prepared according to the instructions attached to the composition.

The method of attaching a sanitary ware to the adhesive composition is simple, for this
you will need to do the following preparatory operations:

• First, the working surfaces are cleaned of dust and dirt residues.

Before gluing the toilet on the tile, it is desirable to give it a small
roughness, for which you can use a large sandpaper - this technique helps to improve the adhesion of the surfaces to be glued.

• Then they are degreased with a solvent or ordinary acetone, then
  you can proceed to the preparation of the glue. It can be bought in the store ready-made
  or cook it yourself.

To do this, you will need: 100 parts of ED-6 resin, 200 parts of high-grade cement, 20 parts of solvent and 35 parts of hardener.

When preparing the adhesive composition, the sequence of actions is important, which determines
the order in which individual components are added to it.

First of all, you should heat the resin to 50 degrees, and add a solvent to the thick solution. It is followed by the addition of a hardener and at the very end of the procedure cement is placed there. In the process of adding the components, the mixture must be continuously stirred, as a result of which a homogeneous and dense plastic mass should be obtained.

For better fixation of the plumbing fixture on the screed or tile of their surface
pre-cleaned and lubricated with a not very thick layer of prepared adhesive
mixtures.

Upon completion of installation, excess epoxy composition up to 4 mm thick, squeezed out by the mass of the device, is immediately removed with a damp cloth.

It is advisable to use the mixture prepared for installation within one and a half hours. Otherwise, it will freeze and become unusable.

When installing a toilet bowl, you should carefully ensure that its socket is located strictly opposite the sewer drain hole. If this is not observed, you need to forcefully press the base to the floor.

Upon completion of these operations, the device is left for about 12 hours, necessary for the final curing of the adhesive. After the specified time, you can proceed to connecting it to the water supply and sewerage.

Taffeta fastening

When choosing fasteners for a toilet bowl to the floor, take into account the possibility of mounting it on wooden floor, which is usually required in private buildings. In this case, you will need a special gasket made of durable wood (it is called taffeta).

For its manufacture, a board 28–30 cm thick is taken, corresponding in size
the form of a toilet stand. In order to protect against moisture and destruction of its surface
covered with a layer of drying oil.