Proper ventilation in the bath: the steam room does not need waste. Consider the schemes in the Russian bath and frame walls

We have repeatedly addressed the topic of bath ventilation, but these were materials regarding its theoretical part.

This article corrects the preponderance of theory and is entirely devoted to the practical issues of ventilation in the bath.

How to make ventilation in the bath: plan at the construction stage

Indeed, there are far from isolated cases of the construction of baths without any kind of ventilation. At first glance it seems that the train has already left. However, in reality there is always the opportunity to fix everything, however, you will have to come to terms with the fact that this will cost a pretty penny. It is especially difficult to make forgotten ventilation in brick bath where ventilation ducts are laid in the walls during the construction phase. But in other cases, the task is not easy.

But what does it mean to plan during the construction phase? First of all, we are talking about the layout of the ventilation openings and the channels by which they are connected to the street or neighboring rooms (depending on the choice). Based on this scheme, the volume of rooms and standards, the diameter of the pipes is calculated, which provides the necessary gas exchange in each of the bath rooms: a steam room, a washing room, a rest room, a dressing room, a toilet. If the ventilation is forced, then the power of the fans is calculated.

If the bath is already built

Let's take, as an example, an ordinary Russian bathhouse, in which they forgot to make ventilation holes. In principle, if there are windows, and the furnace firebox is located inside the steam room, then you can do without drilling holes at all. But you will have to constantly resort to burst ventilation and use the draft of the furnace as a ventilation one.

This will solve the problem in general, but there are downsides to be aware of:

1. By opening windows and doors, we do not so much reduce the temperature in the room, but distill the steam into other rooms (instead of the street where the inflow comes from, it goes inside and condensate falls there), and then the steam comes out, and the temperature has only dropped slightly and will recover in a short time.
2. To use stove draft, you still have to make holes, but only in the lower part of the steam room door. Then an influx from neighboring premises will go through it, which, in turn, will pull through the cracks from the street.

To adjust the ventilation with the help of the furnace, the gate and furnace doors are used. If you need to increase air exchange, just open the damper and the firebox doors to the stop. To reduce it, the gate is covered, but not completely, because when closed with unburnt firewood, this is a guarantee of carbon monoxide poisoning.

By the way, the problem of forgotten ventilation in a bath made of any material is solved by the methods described. Replace completely supply and exhaust ventilation they can't, but they relieve the trouble of making holes in the walls.

If such ventilation is not enough, you will have to drill the wall. But more on that below.

Device, schemes: how to make ventilation in the bath

There are a number of materials included in other articles, therefore, in order not to repeat ourselves, we suggest that you follow the links below - there you will find a lot of useful information on the topic of interest:

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath: a step-by-step guide

Now let's proceed to the analysis of the points that make up the creation of bath ventilation with our own hands, let's call it a step-by-step guide.

Schema selection

In terms of choosing a scheme, the answer to the question “how to properly ventilate a bath” is ambiguous, since there are different schemes. Physics says that the inlet should be located below the exhaust. What exactly will be the height difference between them is up to you. Despite the fact that in many sources it is proposed to make an exhaust hole under the ceiling (but in no case on the ceiling, so as not to spoil the attic with condensate), there is a more advanced scheme in which there are two exhaust holes inside for one exhaust hole outside. It's simple: a pipe with two holes is placed - lower behind the middle shelf and under the ceiling, and this pipe has one exit to the street.

The schemes also differ in what walls to make the hood on. Most often, there are no questions with the inflow - it is done under the stove, and the hood is made on the opposite, and on the same walls, and with access to the street, and to the adjacent room.

Choose the optimal ventilation flow path

Calculations are simply made only for forced ventilation. For a natural one, many factors have to be taken into account, in particular, the strength and direction of the winds that usually blow in this area. Why is it necessary? Let's take the case when the exhaust hole goes to the same side from which it blows strong wind. And it turns out that because of this, the influx strives to get into the exhaust hole. Then the inlet will also “unfold” into reverse side. This is called reverse thrust or thrust tipping.

In order to avoid this, the ventilation ducts can be extended to lead in the right direction, and even done with turns, which, by the way, reduce the speed of air movement.

The idea is simple: it is better to orient the inlet to the side where the wind often blows, and the outlet of the hood is on the opposite side or through the roof along a high pipe.

ADVICE! How to make ventilation ducts with knees, it is better to do it right away forced ventilation.

By the way, not every wall will well accept a ventilation duct in its thickness. It is better not to do this in the outer walls of the blocks. All ventilation is carried out interior walls and partitions, often over walls.

How to make a hole in a wall

This point is discussed in more detail below.

Installation of pipes and gratings

Galvanized pipes can be used as an air duct.

ATTENTION! If you take plastic ones, pay attention to their temperature range so that the steam room does not spoil them.

Ventilation in the dressing room

The dressing room should be a warm room with fresh air in which it is comfortable to be after bath procedures. Therefore, it is usually equipped with only one ventilation hole - an exhaust hood. And to speed up the process of gas exchange, a fan is often placed on this hood. The exhaust hole itself is located opposite the steam room at a height of half a meter. He's being drilled out accessible way in the wall, put a plug on it on one side, and a grill or deflector on the other. In the case of forced ventilation, there is a fan inside, connected according to the instructions attached to the device.

But if the furnace firebox is not in the steam room, but in the dressing room, you will have to make sure that fresh air from the street enters the furnace. To do this, a ventilation duct is installed, most likely made of galvanized steel, which runs under the finished floor and delivers fresh air directly to the oven door. The installation of this channel is carried out until the end of work with the floor. The pipe of the calculated diameter is inserted at one end into the hole in the wall, where it is fixed with polyurethane foam and is closed with a grate, and on the other hand it is led to the furnace and is supplied with an adjustable plug.

How to make ventilation in the steam room of the bath

The ventilation mode of the steam room differs from other rooms of the bath just as the steam room itself differs from them in its extremeness. In the Russian bath, while soaring, the ventilation is blocked for a while. But at the same time, it's extremely important. to saturate the steam room with oxygen, uniform heating, distribution of air flows.

More detailed information on this topic can be found in the articles and in general. In particular, Bastu ventilation can be called among the well-proven methods of ventilation of this room. But you can read about it in the articles mentioned.

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the steam room

Steam room ventilation schemes can also be found in. As for the stages self-assembly ducts, they are no different from those above, so now we will consider in detail the method of drilling holes in the walls of a log house or timber, as well as from blocks.

How to make a hole in the wall of a log house

1. Before you start you need to know place and size future hole, which is a little larger than the diameter of the pipe, because you still have to wrap the pipe with a heat insulator. After that, markup is done. (It is advisable to have both pipes and grates at hand at this moment so that the process can be controlled through them.)
2. A drill for wood, the length of which should be greater than the thickness of the wall with all the "pie", if any, drilled through hole in the center of the markup.
3. After that, from the outside of the wall a circle of the desired diameter is drawn with drilled hole in the center.
4. External and internal wall trim neatly sawn in a circle, freeing the log of the wall.
5. The same drill is made holes in the log around the circumference marked circle. And the closer they are to each other, the easier it is to remove the inner fragment later. Make sure the drill is perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
6. Chisel and chisel will help remove jumpers between drilled holes. Work should be done both inside and outside the bath.
7. Pulling out the middle part don't smooth the edges- it's too much.

Useful video

And here on the video the same thing is done with a drill and crown:

How to make a hole in a block wall

Method for block wall exactly the same as described above, except that a concrete drill is taken (you can use a crown instead). By the way, the blocks are very soft, the main thing is not to collide with metal (reinforcing mesh, dowels, fastening fittings for openings). If this happens, you will need special tongs (hydraulic).

IMPORTANT! There is also a chance of colliding with metal when drilling a log house - there are dowels under the ceiling that hold the Mauerplate, so the pliers should be rented in advance.

As for air ducts, plugs and valves, all this is purchased in stores. The air duct is most often a galvanized pipe (round, square or rectangular in cross section), which must be thermally insulated (wrapped with insulation) and sealed with foam so that condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet.

Plugs and shutters are purchased at desired diameter. It is better to take wooden ones, because the plastic in the steam room will release carcinogens that we do not need, and the metal will be burned in a heated steam room. As for the schemes, we have already given links to them.

Useful video

It shows how to make a square hole in the wall using a drill.

Well, that's all we could tell you about how to make ventilation in the bath. We can only wish you success in the implementation of your plans. Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bath is a difficult task, but feasible for many. We hope that you have planned everything well and to the end, and in the future you will not have to regret either the lost time or the money invested.

In contact with

The positive impact of regular bath procedures on the body is invaluable. At the same time, a bath is not just healthy, it is also a spiritual pastime, relaxation and gatherings. However, all the benefits will be easily blocked by the difficulties that will certainly appear if there is no effective ventilation in the bath.

Importance of the system

Even in the old days, architects understood that the lack of fresh air in the bathhouse can quickly cause dampness, mold, fungal spores, which inevitably leads to the destruction of the structure. That is why even in ancient times, builders left small gaps between the logs - they contributed to the improvement of air exchange and high-quality ventilation. Today, these primitive technologies have been replaced by modern, efficient systems that require effort, money and time for planning and installation.

Some homeowners skip this stage of work, but this is a very big mistake, because after a couple of years such buildings will simply become unusable due to constant high humidity, and if the bath is built according to frame technology, then its service life will be even less. The first sign of the destruction that has begun will be a musty smell, which will be most noticeable at the moment the stove is kindled. This will negate any pleasure from the procedure. Being in such a steam room is not only unpleasant, but also quite dangerous for life and health, since carbon monoxide, fungal and mold spores accumulate in the air, which provoke the development of dangerous diseases of the bronchopulmonary system.

Effective ventilation in the bath must certainly comply with the basic requirements and principles of safety:

• Proper distribution of air masses. As is known from the school physics course, high-temperature air masses rush up, and cold ones, on the contrary, fall. Therefore, the flows should be directed so that the legs do not freeze, and the sunbeds have a comfortable temperature.
• Maintaining a predetermined level of heating in the steam room. Under no circumstances should ventilation interfere with the functionality of the steam room, that is, air cooling is unacceptable.
• The use of waterproof materials. For the arrangement of steam rooms and the organization of ventilation, it is necessary to use materials that are resistant to moisture and elevated temperatures.

The main difficulty in creating an effective air exchange system is that it is faced with the task of quickly removing hot moist air from all parts of the bath, but at the same time it is required to prevent a decrease in temperature in the hot steam room, therefore modern systems, as a rule, use the installation of hoods that do not allow cold air to be blown in from the street. The presence of such systems is of fundamental importance for buildings equipped with solid fuel and gas stoves, since such schemes need large volume oxygen to support the combustion process.

How it works?

Quality ventilation in a steam room it consists of airing and complete drying of all functional areas, as well as walls, floors, attic and the entire under-roof area. Exhaust openings in the attic are made in the form of small windows, as well as aerators or spotlights - this largely depends on the type of roof and the materials for its manufacture. If the building is insulated, then a counter-lattice is additionally mounted, which allows ventilation to be achieved between the layer of thermal insulation material and other layers of the roofing pie. It is also installed to ventilate wall structures, which is very important to prevent the formation of condensate in the bath.

But for the best drying of the floors, a burst ventilation system is used or a ventilated floor is arranged. Such options should be considered at the planning stage. construction works. To do this, a subfloor is laid and concrete is poured at an angle, then the boards are laid in such a way that small gaps remain between them, through which excessive moisture is removed.

It should be noted that absolutely all bath rooms need airing: a steam room, a sink, a rest room, as well as other rooms. In order for ventilation to be most effective, it is necessary to select in advance such a scheme that will correspond to the characteristics of the bath and the conditions of its operation.

Experienced Builders they do not advise to carry out complex ventilation systems and recommend giving preference to the simplest and most familiar methods that may be suitable for each individual case. Here, the statement that the simpler the better is 100% true, and at its cost this option will be much cheaper.

The principle of operation of ventilation is based on the laws of physics. As a rule, 2 windows are cut out in such rooms: one of them is responsible for the supply of fresh street air, and the second allows overheated and humid air to come out. How these windows are located in relation to each other depends largely on which zone of the complex and with what intensity the air heated from the furnace will penetrate, since it moves under the influence of cold air masses coming from the street. This explains the fact that in some baths two outlets are cut instead of a single outlet, which makes it possible to redirect heat flows in the desired direction.

Of fundamental importance are the dimensions of the windows, as well as the possibility of full or partial regulation of the clearance. To do this, special valves are fixed on them, allowing you to cover any open slots.

It is very important to make correct calculations windows according to the size of the room. If the windows are too large, then the steam room simply cannot warm up to the required temperature and you will have to spend more electricity. And if the windows are too small, then the intensity of the movement of flows will be reduced and a complete supersaturation of the air with water vapor may occur.

The size and location of the ventilation windows primarily affects the ingress and uniform mixing of air, as well as its removal from the overheated room. As for the uneven distribution of temperatures in different parts of the steam room, this phenomenon cannot be completely avoided, but it is possible to ensure that the effect is invisible to visitors to the steam room and washing room and does not cause any discomfort.

Kinds

High-quality ventilation of bath rooms extends the life of the steam room up to 50 years and even more. The variant of the ventilation system in each case is selected individually and is largely determined by the location of the building and the materials that were used in its construction. All the options for arranging ventilation developed to date, according to the basic principle of operation, are divided into natural, forced, and also combined.

natural ventilation assumes that the change of air is carried out due to the unimpeded flow of flows from the outside, their mixing with the air layers of the steam rooms and the removal of the exhaust through special openings.

Forced the system is based on the use of fans. As a rule, they are installed on the hood and much less often on the inflow. Typically, fans are installed not only in the steam room, but also in the washing room, as well as in the rest room.

combined option, as the name implies, it includes elements of natural and forced ventilation.

Among the popular schemes, “bastu” is the most common. It involves the formation of a small opening with an adjustable valve, which works for inflow and is usually located behind or below the furnace.

As additional elements, vents are equipped above the stove, which are controlled by a valve and a valve - it is through them that air enters from the outside through the vents from the underground. Usually the opening of such a box remains closed for some period, however, as soon as there is a need to reduce the level of humidity in the bath, both exhaust valves open. This scheme could be considered ideal if not for some of its limitations. Unfortunately, it is far from suitable in every case, therefore, in some situations, the installation of an exhaust system becomes a more preferable ventilation option - for this, a fan is attached to the bottom of the box. If you install it in the supply hole behind the stove, you can get a supply type of ventilation.

There is another scheme that is quite often used in steam rooms - with it, moist superheated air is removed from the steam room space through the upper and lower openings equipped with valves, and fresh air enters through vents in the floor under the firebox. From the outside of the building, such holes are interconnected by a special ventilation duct. Less often, an exhaust hood is installed in the baths, in which one single channel works for the entry of air jets and one for their removal, while both are equipped at the same height from the floor level: one is placed behind the stove, and the second is opposite on the opposite wall. This system requires mandatory installation of forced ventilation.

The most unfortunate way involves arranging both inflow and exhaust on one side opposite the firebox. In such a system, fresh air coming in from the street seeks its way to the stove and, during its movement, stumbles upon the feet of the steamers. This creates a draft, which significantly reduces the level of comfort from staying in the steam room. However, such an arrangement is also quite common when it is not technically possible to make holes from different sides of the room.

materials

The choice of the bath ventilation system is largely influenced by the type of structure and the material from which it is made. If the bath is equipped in a separate building, then it is quite simple to plan and install the most preferred type of ventilation. But if the bath has a common wall with living rooms, then ventilation must be taken especially carefully to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the wall.

The ventilation system in the baths of the second type can only be forced, that is, it must necessarily include a fan, which will help to effectively dry the wall. The ventilation of the bath can be connected to the elements of general house ventilation or independently go outside. Ventilation ducts in frame buildings are equipped directly in the walls, and later they are brought out to the roof or even higher. For maximum air flow, functional air vents are installed in the foundation or a ventilation valve is installed.

The peculiarity of the buildings according to the frame method is that the walls in them are covered with a large number of heat-insulating layers, which completely excludes the possibility of arranging natural ventilation. That is why the best option here would be to create a supply and exhaust ventilation system. In order for the air exchange to be of the highest quality, they use the creation of two channels: one is placed near the floor and supplemented with a fan, it is used for inflow, and the second serves to remove the exhaust air - it is mounted a little higher. The openings of such openings are closed with shutters.

In baths built from gas blocks and foam blocks, in connection with individual features material equip galvanized air ducts. To do this, they purchase ready-made pipes, some even make them from simple sewer pipes. Some craftsmen create a ventilation duct on their own from galvanized leaves, after giving them the necessary configuration and reliably sealing the joints. As a rule, in such buildings, air ducts are laid over the side walls.

The easiest way to arrange ventilation is in a classic Russian log bath. Here it makes sense to equip a natural exhaust system. If the wood is breathable, gaps are formed between the logs from the floor to the bottom edge, and windows are provided in all the rooms of the bath, then additional ventilation structures will not be required. However, the problem often arises of creating optimal proportions between the air entering from outside and leaving the street. To prevent the occurrence of drafts and not to “heat the street”, experts recommend additionally insulating the bath well and equipping it inside thermal insulation material small holes with special valves that serve to enter and remove flows.

In buildings made of wood, the burst ventilation method is often used, in which all windows and doors are opened at the same time.

Brick buildings initially do not provide for the possibility of air exchange, so any natural exhaust is absolutely excluded here. Because of this, ventilation should be planned at the stage of drawing up a construction project. At the same time, it is important to accurately imagine how many bathers will take bath procedures. If the bath is being built for a small family, then you can simply arrange a small supply hole near the stove and an exhaust hole under the ceiling, and if the building is focused on a large company, then forced options should be preferred.

How to make your own?

In order to create in the steam room and other bath rooms comfortable conditions, it is necessary to properly equip the ventilation system. You can spend it in the bath both on your own and with the involvement of specialists. This will require a project of work, materials and tools, as well as a little time and effort.

What will be needed?

For mounting ventilation ducts Bathing needs preparation. In the work you will need components:

• several ventilation valves;
• valve;
• metal grate;
• mosquito net;
• ventilation box;
• corrugated air duct;
• hygrometer;
• fan;

• thermometer;
• metallized adhesive tape;
• collar;
• mounting foam;
• sealant;
• fasteners;
• decorative overlays for facing inlet and outlet openings.

By the way, the latter are widely represented in any store in a variety of colors and textures, so getting the best option will not be a problem. Vent valves are installed on the exhaust and supply openings. They may differ in shape, as well as in size and material of manufacture. Gate valves are used to quickly open or close openings. They are made from a variety of materials, and some home craftsmen even make them with their own hands, and in terms of strength and fixation strength, they are in no way inferior to store options.

A grid with a grid, as in ordinary houses, is necessary in order to create a barrier in the way of insects and rodents, whose presence is highly undesirable either at home or in the bath. Most often they are made of metal, but there are options made of heat-resistant plastic.

The box is usually attached with outer wall, but if there is no technical possibility for this, it is simply laid on top. This arrangement is typical for buildings made of aerated concrete. Some make the box on their own, using corrugated pipes for this. Keep in mind that plastic options are not suitable for double rooms, since most types of plastic begin to deform under the influence of high temperatures.

The fan in the steam room is used for both supply and exhaust air. It is optimal if in the room it will work only in the general direction. Such a device should be purchased in a heat-resistant version, which is specially made for Finnish saunas and baths. Thermo and hygrometers are used to make the use of the bath as practical as possible. For example, in systems with forced ventilation, temperature sensors are often installed that analyze the real state of the air and, depending on its performance, open the supply valve or start the exhaust.

Planning for the construction of a steam room

It is optimal if the entire ventilation system is thought out in advance - even at the design stage of the building. To choose the most suitable design, it is worth focusing on some of the nuances installation work. The ventilation system, as a rule, is laid at the construction stage of the bath, it is at this time that all the necessary channels are laid and openings are formed into which they will later be walled up or to which they will be attached. Adjustable windows themselves are fixed only after work on decorative trim complex.

All ventilation openings usually have an identical size, and if the task is to increase the degree of air outflow, then the exhaust window is made slightly larger than the supply window, but in no case vice versa. The formation of an exhaust hole with a diameter lower than that of the supply one is strictly not allowed, because such a design can pose a threat to the life and health of users.

By all means, dampers and valves must be provided in the system, and the latter are considered the most preferable option, since they allow you to close the holes with the greatest tightness without the formation of any gaps. Adjustable shutters are also important because the air flow depends not only on the size of the window, but also on the season. In winter, when outside the window prevail negative temperatures, cold air masses penetrate the bath room more intensively, which is why in autumn-winter period windows are partially opened, thereby delaying the flow of large volumes of frosty air masses.

As for the ventilation window, the size of its cross section is calculated based on the volume of the steam room. A standard has been conditionally adopted, according to which the window area must correspond to 24 cm2 for each cubic meter of space. If the calculations are made with violations and deviations in one direction or another, then the room will be too much ventilated, or vice versa.

Even at the design stage of the bath, it should be remembered that ventilation windows should not be located exactly opposite each other at the same level. In this case, warm air masses will not have normal circulation and will not be able to cover all the required areas of heating. Exhaust openings should be located slightly below ceiling level. This is because warm air rises. If the system has an outlet for superheated air flows, then they are effectively removed to the outside, and if the holes are low, then the exhaust air cannot find a place for removal and the general microclimate in the room becomes uncomfortable.

Separately, floor ventilation should be provided, because with constant contact with water wooden surfaces after 3-5 years they lose their performance characteristics, therefore important requirements for a ventilated floor:

• to form the possibility of a flow in the foundation, it is necessary to build small vents;
• the floor should be laid in such a way that there are gaps up to one centimeter in size between the boards;
• the finishing floor must be laid without fail above the level of the blower, which contributes to the fact that the stove starts to work as an additional hood;
• after taking bath procedures should be left front door completely open until the floor is dry.

As for the dressing room, it is easiest to equip ventilation here, since there is no direct contact with water in such a room. As a rule, a combined or natural way ventilation, when cool air enters through the supply duct, and is removed using the exhaust mechanism of the steam room, where it enters under the action of the fan.

In addition, the installation of ventilators is allowed here, which may require a connection to the network. electric current and exit to the street .. As for the washing room, forced ventilation is usually built here, and air exchange here occurs with the help of an electric motor.

We organize the hood in an already built bath

Even ancient architects, far from the laws of physics, invented a method of ventilation, which was based on the creation of natural draft. Depending on how the bath was heated - in black or white, it also depended on where the heated air was discharged. In the first case, the stove did not function during direct soaring, so open windows and doors were used for ventilation. The white scheme provides for the construction of a chimney. As already mentioned, the main elements of the air exchange system should be laid at the construction stage, however, there are options when it becomes necessary to equip the hood in an already built building.

To do this, you should punch holes right in the walls and supplement them with special plugs. One hole is punched in the area of ​​​​the furnace blowing, and the second - near the ceiling on the opposite side. Of course, this is easiest to do if the bath is built of logs. If the building is built of aerated concrete, and even more so of brick, then it will be much more problematic to form holes and equip the hood, since in the process of such work it is possible to violate the integrity of the walls at all in the wrong place, and the risk of destruction of the bath as a whole is quite high. That is why you should not independently do ventilation in already operated baths. Entrust these works to professionals who have the necessary skills and special tools. But if you are still determined to do all the work yourself, study the step-by-step guide.

In conclusion, it should be noted again that basic principles creating an effective ventilation system largely depends on the dimensions of the bath and the materials from which they are made. However, in any case, there are a number of requirements that must be observed regardless of the specified parameters. Each steam room must have at least two openings. One is used for inflow, the second - for the removal of air masses. If you plan in advance the hood in the bath under construction, you can avoid serious problems with the installation of the ventilation system, which can cause air exchange problems in the steam room.

It is absolutely unacceptable that the installed ventilation creates the following problems:

Often to ensure ventilation can be limited to aeration. It is necessary to make holes with dampers, it is advisable to choose the recommended places so that the air circulation is soft and constantly maintained. If necessary, you can use forced air exchange systems.

Above the stove

Opening for outside air equipped above the heater. An outlet is made in the opposite wall, it should be lower than the entrance. The warm stream will rise as a jet of cold air and exit through the hole. Due to the constant exit of warm air, cold air cannot enter through the outlet.

Behind the stove

The air inlet can be positioned at the bottom of the wall behind the stove. The stove will heat the one who comes, cold air, so drafts or sudden changes in temperature will not occur. Output channels can be built in the floor. They can pass through the underground, passing into the ventilation pipe that leads the air to the street. The air outflow created according to this scheme saves heat, helps to reduce heating costs, and gives comfort to those in the bath. The main advantage is the additional heating of the subfloor. It dries well, so mold and various fungi do not grow in it.

Under the stove

The hole is being made next to the stove as low as possible. When cold air passes by the stove, it heats up, so it rises. Exit holes are made in the corner opposite the furnace. To create the first, you need to measure 1 meter from the floor, and the second is built under the ceiling. They are connected by a ventilation box, which can be brought to the roof, for example, through the attic.

Hood under the floor

The hole for the forced draft must be equipped from the back of the oven. From the level of the heater, it should rise by 1.5 m. The hood is installed under the floor, at a distance of about 30 cm. A fan is mounted in the exhaust hole. All incoming air will be heated absolutely evenly. First, the air masses are heated from the furnace, rise up. After cooling, they rush down, go out into the street. To keep warm for a longer time, you need to make the exhaust hole as low as possible.

Other popular options

1. If there is no other possibility, you can make an air inlet anywhere on the wall near the stove, and the outlet is also in a free location, but in the opposite wall. To speed up air circulation, you can install a fan for the outlet.
2. The location of the inlet and outlet openings on the same wall opposite from the furnace. The air will enter through the one built at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exit through the one installed 30 cm from the ceiling. This scheme is great for baths with only one external wall.
3. The inlet is placed at a distance of 30 cm from the floor behind the stove, and the outlet is also at a height of 30 cm, but on the opposite side.
4. Option for baths with a continuous cycle. The blower of the heater is used as an exhaust hood, so there is a need to equip only one hole for air inflow. It must be placed opposite the brazier at the height of its level.

One of the main elements of ventilation for the bath is a chimney. Warm air escapes better through a chimney than through ventilation holes. To freshen the air as quickly as possible, you need to open the chimney along with the equipped holes.

The temperature in the bath should not be allowed to drop lower than the street temperature. In this case, there is a risk of smoke in the room in which the stove is located, usually a steam room. Cooled air forms a plug, it can be released by opening all dampers on the ventilation openings, connecting the chimney. Sometimes you have to use a special opening for ash disposal.

Video on how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself steam bath ventilation

In the steam room, it is desirable to install a stove-heater. It provides the main ventilation system. Air from the steam room passes through the blower, so its circulation is already well ensured. Blower is used instead special device for extraction. For maximum air outflow the oven must be installed at a level lower than the finished floor. To start ventilation, you only have to slightly open the front door or window. The disadvantage of this method of ventilation is that it is maintained only during the combustion of the furnace. If the device is inoperative, the hood stops completely.

In addition to the stove-heater, ventilation in the bath is maintained with extra holes(see photo below). They need to be closed with gates with a lattice. To regulate the air exchange in the steam room, it is enough just to open or close the shutters. After each park, airing the room is necessary, so you should open the holes for a while. If this is not done, the air will remain humid, heavy, and there is also a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning due to its high content.

When the steam room only heats up, the stove is heated, you need to make sure that the holes are tightly closed. When the room is warm enough, they can be opened. In order to avoid the formation of reverse draft, it is necessary to provide at the construction stage that the area of ​​​​exhaust openings exceeds the supply ones. Steam accumulates at the very top, to lower it, you can spray water on the floor in small quantities. To quickly lower the steam, you can also wave the broom or towel in different directions.

If the stove is not installed directly in the steam room, then a different ventilation method is used. A supply hole is made near the heater at a height of 30 cm from the floor. On the wall opposite from it, an exhaust is made, placing it 30 cm down from the ceiling.

Sometimes the inlet is placed behind the stove at the bottom of the wall. The air coming from the street is warmed by the stove, so the room cools moderately. On the opposite wall to the stove, you need to form 2 openings. They will make up one exhaust duct. The first opening is made at a distance of 1 m from the floor, and the second under the ceiling. The air is expelled through the hood to the roof.

With the device of such ventilation, the steam room is quickly warmed up, while fuel is saved. The smell of mustiness in the room is prevented, as the subfloor dries well.

natural ventilation

To get fresh air into the bath, you need to make a small opening in the wall, located at a distance of about 50 cm from the stove. A retractable damper is equipped for it, which allows you to adjust the amount of incoming air. Too high an arrangement is not reasonable, since the hottest air rises to the ceiling. To use the heat from the stove to the maximum, you need to make a hole in the middle of the wall. If the hole is too low, the thrust will be minimal. In order for it to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to install a ventilation pipe or purchase a fan.

Forced ventilation

To get as much fresh air into the steam room as possible, openings should be placed diametrically to each other. If forced air outflow is used, it is desirable to make the supply hole higher than the exhaust one. If it is possible to build a ventilation system in which the air flow enters from below, heats up from the stove, rises, and then goes outside, then additional fans will not be required.

When using fans Do not place both the supply and exhaust openings at the same level. The air supply may close, which will lead to the concentration of cooled air masses from below, while at the top it will be too hot.

It is undesirable to have an exhaust opening in the ceiling. When the incoming air goes up, you will have to spend a lot of time on sufficient heating of the room. Warm air quickly rises, mixing little with cold air, and quickly leaves the bath. You can take the air up in the dressing room, if the goal is to heat it from the steam room.

Cross section of openings for ventilation should be related to the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath or steam room separately. Do not make holes too small. If the ventilation is insufficient, it will take a long time to update the air, it may become too humid, and mustyness will appear.

Scheme of ventilation in the steam room of the Russian bath.

Washroom ventilation

As in the steam room, washing bath there is also a large accumulation of moisture. To avoid constantly damp air, leading to the appearance of fungi and mold, it is necessary to ensure its timely removal to the outside. Lot water often accumulates under the floor, so an asbestos pipe is often sufficient for good ventilation. It can be placed in a corner. One end of the pipe is placed under the finishing floor, and the other is brought to the roof, it must be equipped with a deflector.

The construction of moderate, adjustable ventilation allows you to keep the bathhouse dry, maintain a moderate temperature, get rid of humidity, and constantly inhale renewed, fresh air. Ventilation regulates the direction and location of the air inlet and outlet openings, outlet carbon monoxide, provides savings on fuel for the furnace.

Among the most important indicators are traditionally called temperature and humidity level, forgetting about another fundamental indicator - air exchange. This is very reckless, because even if you carefully insulate the room and achieve comfortable humidity, staying in a steam room with stale air will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous. If you want to avoid such a fate, take care of the ventilation in the steam room in advance. You can even equip such a system with your own hands - let's take a closer look at how to do it right.

Before proceeding to a description of the features of the direct technological process, to begin with, let's clarify why ventilation is generally necessary in the bath in the steam room. It is no secret that many skeptics consider its arrangement only an unjustified waste of time and money, but this is far from the case - the lack of a ventilation system can lead to at least three sharply negative consequences.

Types of ventilation systems for the steam room

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room can be of three types:

• natural;
• mechanical;
• combined.

The natural system assumes that air circulation is provided by the difference in pressure and temperature levels in the steam room and on the street. The principle of operation here is simple: first, hot air rises to the upper zone of the steam room, and then leaves through the exhaust hole to the street, thereby discharging the atmosphere in the bath - this creates the conditions for drawing in new air through the supply hole. The advantage of such ventilation is minimal financial expenses. But here one nuance must be taken into account: with insufficient insulation of the structure, the natural air duct will be an obstacle to high-quality heating of the bath.

Steam room ventilation scheme

Mechanical ventilation operates by means of special devices that control the exit of exhaust air and the supply of new air flows into the steam room. Typically, these devices are different kind fans. The advantage of the mechanical system is that ventilation equipment can be installed in almost any area of ​​the room.

Advice. A classic duct fan is not suitable for a bath, as it will not endure the harsh conditions of a steam room - it is better to use special models made of glass-filled polyamide that can withstand high temperatures - up to 130 degrees.

Combined ventilation combines elements of both natural and mechanical systems. It functions in this way: mechanical devices are responsible for extracting the exhaust air, and fresh air enters through a separate supply opening.

Ventilation schemes

There are at least five working ventilation schemes that can be used in a steam room - choose a specific option based on them. design features your Russian bath.

• The supply opening is behind the stove at a distance of 50 cm from the heater, and the exhaust opening is opposite, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The air is removed forcibly - this is provided by a fan built into the lower opening.
• The supply opening is behind the heater at a distance of 30 cm from the floor base, the exhaust opening is at a distance of 20 cm from the floor on the opposite wall. The air is forced out - with the help of a fan. main feature schemes - a very high rate of heating of fresh air.

Bath ventilation systems

• Both openings - both flow and exhaust - are placed on one side directly opposite the stove, but at different levels: the first is at a distance of 30 cm from the base of the floor, the second is 20 cm from the ceiling. The system operates using a fan, which is mounted in the exhaust opening.

Advice. Such a scheme is suitable for baths with an internal placement of a steam room - when the room has only one outer side.

• The supply hole is behind the stove at a height of 20 cm from the base of the floor. There is no exhaust opening - instead, a special leaking floor is provided: the exhaust air masses pass through its slots to ventilation pipe. Such a system guarantees the performance of an additional function - prompt drying of the floor.
• The supply opening is opposite the stove at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the floor. The role of the exhaust hole is assigned to the blower. Such a scheme is suitable only for those baths where the heater operates continuously.

General rules for organizing ventilation in the steam room

Whichever version of the ventilation system you choose, you need to equip it according to certain rules.

Firstly, it is desirable to make all the holes for ventilation even at the stage of building a bath, since punching channels in an already finished structure is a very difficult process. Perfect option- decide on a suitable scheme during the design of a Russian bath in order to make all the necessary changes to the work plan in a timely manner.

Secondly, the dimensions of the exhaust opening should be approximately the same as the dimensions of the supply opening. In any case, the "output" should not be less than the "input", otherwise it will not be possible to ensure a full outflow of exhaust air from the steam room. And in order to speed up this process, it is allowed to increase the dimensions of the exhaust opening and even equip two “exits” in one room.

Make a valve to block the air flow in the cold season

Thirdly, in order to regulate the airflow of the steam room, all ventilation openings must be equipped with special shutters or shutters. They will come in handy in several situations: when heating the steam room, when the vents will need to be covered to quickly raise the temperature to the required level, as well as in the frosty season, when cold air will actively rush into a warm room.

Fourthly, the cross section of the ventilation hole should be related to the area of ​​the steam room in the proportion: 1 cu. m area - 24 cm section. If the holes are small, the air in the room will not be able to quickly update.

Of course, organizing ventilation in the bath with your own hands is not an easy task. But it is fundamentally necessary: ​​without air exchange, you can forget about the comfort, safety and durability of the steam room. Now you know the main rules and subtleties of this work - if you stick to them, you will definitely be able to make a high-quality ventilation system even without professional help.

Ventilation in the bath: video

The old days, in which people didn’t care which bathhouse they bathe in, have already passed. Nowadays, it is important that this room performs its functions with high quality and correctly. important points is the ventilation in the bath. This applies to the floor and the entire steam room. It has been proven that the well-known effect of healing, which can be obtained from all procedures in the bath, is impossible if ventilation is not arranged. Moreover, ventilation is important in all rooms: steam room, washing room, locker room and rest room.

It is important to remember that this is not just a whim - it is a necessity. It's about your health and the health of your family. How can you make ventilation in the bath? Is there any specific pattern? How to ventilate the floor in the bath? All this you will learn further.

What is the correct scheme of the ventilation device

What is ventilation anyway? Simply put, ventilation is the exchange of air in a room. It's no secret that the product of human exhalation is carbon dioxide. If the room is not ventilated, that is, fresh air is not supplied to it, then it will be filled with this gas. At this time, there will be little oxygen in it. Then the atmosphere becomes "stale", it is difficult and unpleasant for you to breathe. The consequences of this phenomenon are many, up to severe headaches.

That is why it is important to make the ventilation of the room, whether in the house or in the bath. The ventilation system functions quite simply:

1. In the bath, holes (intake vents) are made through which fresh air enters it. Most often, these holes are located below.
2. When it mixes with the atmosphere in the room, which is much warmer due to the operation of the stove, there is a distribution of air flow throughout the bath.
3. Other vents are made from above, through which the exhausted or “stale” air leaves the room.

Note! The ventilation outlet must be larger than the inlet. Otherwise, fresh air from outside will not flow in.

Thus, airing of any bath is arranged. It is important to ensure good air exchange for a pleasant and comfortable stay. It is important to take into account several points:

• exhaust vents should not be made in the ceiling, as the room will cool very quickly;
• the dimensions of all ventilation openings are selected taking into account the size of the room (25 cm 2 is needed for 1 m 3);
• it is imperative to make valves on the holes, thanks to which you can regulate the flow.

Properly performed air exchange should constantly provide the room with fresh air in order to enhance the healing effect of soaring. In addition, due to it, after all the procedures, the room can dry quickly. Since it is about wooden bath moisture can damage the material. If you properly ventilate, you can avoid the following consequences:

1. Decrease in temperature due to the intake of cold air from outside.
2. Negative influence on the distribution of heat flows.
3. Removal of hot and humid air from the steam room, in which there is no carbon dioxide.

But, the ventilation scheme may not be one. There are several of them.

Types of ventilation in the bath

Depending on the device, the ventilation of the premises may be different. There are 3 main types:

1. Natural.
2. Mechanical.
3. Combined.

The natural ventilation scheme is the one we discussed above. Everything happens naturally, due to the temperature difference, according to the principle of convection. In addition, this includes the effect of wind pressure through cracks in the wall, window and door openings.

If we talk about the mechanical system, then all the work is done by special devices (fans), which draw out the exhaust air and fill the bath with fresh air. Accordingly, a combined system is a combination of these two types together to enhance the effect.

Advice! It is especially important to ventilate the floor and the bath for those who have stoves powered by gas or liquid and solid fuel. To maintain the combustion process, these units take oxygen from the bath.

Do I need to ventilate the floor

Why is it so important to make ventilation under the bath floor? The thing is that it contributes to the exchange of air in all sections. Most often, wood is used to make the floor in the bath. Since it will constantly interact with water, it must be removed. If you do not dry the floor, then after 5 years it will simply become unusable. And nobody wants this. How can you ventilate the floor in the bath? Is there a specific pattern?

Yes, here's what you need to do to ensure good ventilation of the base:

But in order for the floor ventilation system in the bath to function as it should, it is necessary to provide a full range of ventilation. Let's find out how you can make the natural ventilation of the bath.

Arrangement of ventilation in a natural way

Why are we considering this kind? Because it does not require large investments of funds and is quite effective. To do everything right, you need to take into account some points and rules. For you to understand how such a scheme is made, look at the photo below.

Let's start by placing holes through which air will flow from the outside. They should be located at the bottom of the steam room, next to the stove. For what? So that it warms up and does not cool the room. Then more fuel will be needed to heat it. In addition, vents do not need to be made with dampers, they must be open all the time.

The second hole, exhaust, must be placed on the opposite wall or diagonally. It is important that it has a larger size than the bottom one. What for? For normal operation. As for the placement, we said that it should not be done on the ceiling. Step back 30 or 40 cm and make it into the wall. But in this exhaust hole you can mount an adjustable valve, which you can buy in the store. The air that will be drawn from the steam room can be sent to the dressing room, saving on its heating. It's like an option. In another case, it is taken out to the roof through a pipe system.