How to properly install window sills. How to make slopes on the windows with your own hands

27.06.2020

The turmoil associated with an important change, the purchase of plastic windows, is the choice of profile, design, fittings, but not only. There is a decision to be made about slopes. Without the help of experts different types slopes can be done, save some money at the same time and buy a window sill, for example, more expensive.

The downside is that, most likely, it will not be possible to repair windows under warranty. On the other hand, they shouldn't break. The warranty is just insurance.

Often it is necessary to insulate the window opening, the quality of the “native” slopes is not satisfactory. Only by dismantling the old ones, improving them with a heater, will it be possible to change the situation.

Mosaics made of glass, mirror splashes, fragments, a relief surface and other extravagant design options are created in a separate order, mostly by hand. Do-it-yourself photo of slopes, from different materials help you make a choice. But also from the features installation work, their simplicity or complexity, accessibility depends a lot.

Pros and cons of plaster

Increasing the slope by plastering is the most elementary way to design a window opening. No need to buy tools, modern materials. Previously, people plastered walls only on their own and did an excellent job with this task.

Cons of this method:

the surface may end up uneven;
it is desirable to insulate such slopes additionally;
it will take quite a lot of time to work, because it will be necessary to apply the building mixture in several layers, let each one dry.

If you try, the new slopes still turn out to be even, beautiful. As they say, the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing. Should buy the right materials, to start restoring the natural, usual design for apartments and houses.

It is important to consider that as a result, the slope will not look as harmonious with the windows as plastic. The feeling of novelty, progress will be lost. But it will be cozy, beauty in the retro style will return to the house.

The harmony of the design of the window opening is understood different people differently. This applies not only to curtains, the choice of plants, the colors of the window sill, the color of the windows, but also the slopes.

Mounting Features

How to make slopes with your own hands when wrinkling plaster without defects? The surface is easier to make if you use special plaster beacons. They are on sale, they can be plaster, metal, wood.

It is better to choose plaster because they are very easy to handle. The metal ones are perfectly fixed, while the wooden ones are easier to remove during the restoration process.

How many beacons do you need for one window? They are installed according to a clear scheme. The first is attached next to the window frame, close. As a result, the distance of the overlap, overlap of the slope on the frame should be about 50 mm. Lighthouses are also needed at the outer corners of the window opening. These areas are subject to greater stress, this element strengthens them.

Paint corners help to improve the effect, achieve optimal results, form the right angle. Attach them with gypsum putty.

In order for the plaster not to crack, before proceeding with the creation of a new surface, the old one must be thoroughly cleaned. It is possible to achieve better adhesion of new materials to the surface if notches are made, although this is not necessary.

The surface must be primed. For plastering, a mixture of cement and sand is used in proportions of 1 to 2. Gypsum dry plaster is ideal for the upper slope.

Each layer is applied as carefully as possible, it is allowed to dry, leveled with a spatula, then proceed to apply the next one. Sanding the last layer is a responsible process. You will need not a spatula, but a grinder or sandpaper - with large grains and smaller ones.

A sealant that can be used for painting will help eliminate gaps in the corners, along the line connecting the slope with the window frame, the wall.

That's all, the slopes are ready. The surface is primed and painted desired color. If insulation is provided, it is necessary, after removing the old slopes, treating the walls with a primer, putty, to mount the insulating material, fix it with foam or with the help of nails intended for this. Then apply plaster.

Drywall slopes - a lot of advantages

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes from drywall is difficult at first glance. They do everything "scientifically", as they say. Because of this, perhaps, the result is luxurious - the windows are neat, stylish, fashionable. True, you will need special tools that not every home has.

People are used to the need for a hammer to hammer in a nail, but it turned out that it was more practical to purchase a screwdriver. In the country, the hammer is relevant, but in the apartment with modern renovation no. And all because of the drywall.

This is a light weight material, cut with a grinder. With its help, in a short time it is really possible to create an ideal flat surface. Such slopes can be repaired in case of minor damage with putty.

The disadvantage is that it is unstable to moisture. Be sure to use a primer. It cannot be used to decorate surfaces from the side of the street.

Start with mounting the frame: attached metallic profile, guides. Then the insulation is fixed, drywall sheets are installed. Sheathe first sides, and then the top.

If desired, if there is a skill, the work can be done faster than if you choose plastering. Door slopes with their own hands are often also made from this material. It's beautiful and practical.

Sandwich panels for slopes

How to make slopes on windows with your own hands without extra effort? Sandwich panels - what you need. Having bought them, you can simultaneously complete the decor and insulate the window opening. They are different colors, easy to fix.

In order to put the slopes in order, it is not necessary in this case to remove the old ones, but it is desirable - a truly durable surface will be created that will last for many years. If you decorate the old surface with sandwich panels, the duration of their operation will depend on its condition.

The starting profile is placed next to the frame, and for the outer edge they take wooden lath. A sandwich panel is attached to them using screws, self-tapping screws.

Mounting foam carefully fills the void between the panel and the wall. The decorative profile is put on the corners, fixed. It remains only to wipe new surface, remove the dust. The slopes are made new design will delight the eye with beauty modern materials, their combinations.

DIY slope photo

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 12 minutes

The final stage of the process of installing modern windows is finishing the slopes. A thick profile, multi-chamber double-glazed windows and reliable fittings provide excellent thermal insulation, but the interface between the window frame and the apartment wall remains cold and does not beautiful place. If you do not provide due attention to this area, then condensation, mold and wall destruction may occur. Therefore, let's find out which slopes are best suited for plastic windows.

What requirements must slopes meet?

Before considering window framing options, their advantages and disadvantages, let's decide what is required of these elements.

Anton Tsugunov

Hello, friends!

First, I will talk about all types of slopes, as well as their pros and cons. I will describe the subtleties and share my experience. At the end of the article I will give recommendations on which slopes are the best choice, and in what cases it is necessary to give preference to one or another material and method of finishing.

Enjoy reading!

Slopes should:

Not inferior in terms of window design durability. Modern double-glazed windows are designed for at least 15-20 years of operation. Slopes are required to withstand no less time without loss of basic qualities. Few people like to redo them every two or three years.
Correspond general style windows, to form a single whole with it.
Maintain or even improve the performance of plastic windows.
Withstand mechanical loads and impacts of the sashes.
Be repairable if possible.

Olga returned 21,024 rubles, while the cost of windows was 43,800 rubles

Hello! I ordered the installation of 2 plastic windows: one in the kitchen and the second large window with a door to the balcony in the room. Price for both windows amounted to 43 800 rubles. The company is quite reliable and well-known, I read a lot of good reviews about it, it has been working for a long time. As a result, the order shook my nerves!

Firstly, at first the window to the balcony was brought larger than necessary. Fortunately, the master first measured the old window and the one that was brought, and did not immediately break the old window.

We agreed to move the installation. They said they would call and say when they could deliver. The next day I was informed that they had some problems with production, the profile had ended, they were waiting for delivery from day to day (the manager explained this to me by phone).

All this took 2 weeks. And every day they called me and "feed me breakfast."

I called the window company, but they explained to me that the team was busy and could only come in 10 days to fix the deficiencies. And they didn’t say a word about the delay at all, as if this was the way it should be. They didn't even apologize!

I studied a lot of information on the Internet, how to act in such a situation. On sites legal assistance I was immediately quoted a price for a consultation ( 1 500 rubles), then for representing my interests and for compiling each piece of paper. They said that if necessary, they would bring this case to court ( the cost of filing a lawsuit from 20,000 rubles). I did not want to contact lawyers and pay them that kind of money.

Then I remembered that along with advice on how to save on repairs, I received letters about. I went through and bought it in a couple of minutes, paid with a card. Downloaded immediately. By the table of contents in the Instructions, I found a description of my case.

Everything is clearly written and examples are given of how to write a claim. And it also says in which folder the empty and filled .

There are many documents there, they are all arranged in folders and the folders are signed.

Finishing a window opening with plaster has the following advantages:

Versatility. This material is used in rooms with different indicators of humidity and temperature.
Democratic price. Plaster is an inexpensive material, and it is also possible to save money by doing the work yourself.
Strength. Plaster slopes are more resistant to mechanical stress compared to other types of finishes.
No seams. Perhaps the main argument of the supporters of such a coating: it is not necessary to additionally process the joints and interfaces of the opening planes.
Possibility of renewal and repair.

Anton Tsugunov

Expert builder. Businessman. 15 years experience. Over 100 completed objects.

To date, this is the most "dirty" and long way to finish. In order not to encounter condensate and mold, I recommend choosing this method only in warm rooms, for example, when a window is installed between a heated balcony and a living room, then freezing of the slopes is excluded. And also if the installation sheet material simply left no room.

Drywall slopes

For their manufacture, pieces of GKL are used. right size, which are screwed to the profile frame or glued to the sides of the opening. Then the surface of the drywall is primed, puttied and painted. In the case of laminated GKL, further finishing is not required. The space between the wall and the new slopes is insulated mounting foam and a heater.

It is easier and faster to fix the GKL than to display a flat plane with plaster. But do not forget that after installation, a fine finish is required, which will take several days. If you use laminated GKL, then the installation of slopes is done in one day.

To avoid the stage of fine finishing, you can take laminated plasterboard instead of the usual one. But in this case, you will have to use special corners to close the ends of the sheets.

Gypsum fiber slopes (GVL)

The technology for mounting slopes from gypsum-fiber sheets is practically the same as mounting drywall, the advantages will be the same. At the same time, GVL is devoid of the disadvantages of GKL: it is much stronger and tougher, and its moisture-resistant variety is not at all afraid of a wet environment.

Mr. Build thinks that when correct installation GVL slopes are superior to other options in terms of performance characteristics and appearance.

It is not recommended to use one-sided sandwich panels and decorative Wall panels made of thin cellular plastic. They do not have the necessary strength, wear resistance and thermal insulation qualities.

Installation speed. Plastic slopes are mounted faster than drywall and even more plaster.
The minimum amount of dirt and dust when facing with plastic.
100% moisture resistance.
It is possible to replace part of the slope in case of damage.
The frame covering the outer contour reliably protects the junction of the wallpaper and the window opening.

Susceptibility to mechanical damage.
Impossibility of local repair. In case of breakage, you will have to change the whole panel.
Poor quality of additional elements, such as corners. Often these small parts are made of recycled plastic, which turns yellow over time and stands out ugly against the background of snow-white slopes.

Interior incompatibility. Glossy plastic will look unnatural in a room decorated in classical style, as well as in any other direction of design where natural materials are used.

After installing plastic windows, the window opening looks far from in the best way: foam sticks out, pieces of plaster, wall material is visible in places. Closes all this "beauty" different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic, between which is foamed polypropylene). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given from step by step instructions and photo. How to attach slopes to plastic windows decide for yourself. Both methods give good results.

Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a start profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually on the hinge side - not possible at all.

After installing the plastic window, such a picture was observed.

The device of slopes of plastic windows begins with the preparation of the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a clerical knife. It is cut off easily, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush, and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - less foam will slip.

Then, along the perimeter of the window, we nail (put on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin rail - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side to the slope.

Usually it is not leveled, it is nailed as is, but if you want, you can set it straight by placing pieces of plywood, thin planks, etc. in the right places.

Now you need to properly cut the plastic panels. Can be done as standard: using measurements, you can make a stencil. With a stencil, it seems to be easier. Take a sheet of paper, larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, squeeze, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start with the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the groove of the foam, we add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut off than to cover up later.

We cut with a hacksaw with a metal blade, try on, adjust so that the plastic stands up evenly, without bending. Align so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even, where necessary, we work with a file.

Having removed the tried and fitted strip, along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the bar, we drill holes along the thickness of the studs, stepping back about 0.5 cm from the edge. So it will be easier to fasten and do not damage the plastic.

We put it back in place, take a balloon with polyurethane foam and fill the gap with foam with short “puffs”. We try to get as deep as possible, but we don’t pour a lot: if it swells up, it can warp the plastic.

There are several points when working with mounting foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not adhere very well to it. To improve it, or treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, or / and prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for the normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it is swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

After we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, we insert the studs into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Using the same technology - we cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic sidewall. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be processed sandpaper. To make the edge even it was easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a flat bar, a file or a whetstone (half a circle, as in the photo).

We adjust to the ideal (as far as possible) match at the top and bottom, put it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge on the same level with the wall plaster. You can do this with a clerical knife on the spot, or you can put a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then refine it with what is convenient.

Having removed, along the outer edge we also drill holes for cloves. We install the panel in place, take the foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam, and here it’s not good, since the plastic can bend. Therefore, we fill in short portions, trying to fill as deep as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: on the panel ready for installation, along the far edge, which starts under the frame, apply foam before installation. The strip is made solid or applied with a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut out groove, set as needed, the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to moisten the wall before installation). Having filled, press, level, fix with carnations into the bar.

So that during the polymerization process the foam does not move the edges of the slope, the joint is glued with masking tape at the top and bottom. No matter how hard you try to fit the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes such as mounting foam, placed in the same mounting gun.

Squeeze the strip into the slot, rub it, smooth it out, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. You need to do this operation in small areas and wipe it gently - clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then, with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start filling cracks from above - immediately - a horizontal slope panel, then joints, then move down, first along one side, then along the other. The last to cover up the joints with the window sill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic can be drawn into the seam - this is if the gaps are large. All these places go through the second time according to the same method. After the second layer dries, if there are roughness and irregularities, they can be leveled with fine-grained sandpaper, folding it in half. In general, it is better to carefully align while damp, otherwise you can scratch the plastic.

Everything, plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveled with the surface of the walls. After that, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed foam. Using the same technology, you can make window frames from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are quite easily pressed through, to besides, e If the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then jumpers are visible in the light. in sandwich panels and plastic window sills there is no such. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and even there are no jumpers to the clearance.

Photo report 2: we mount plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes and according to this technology begins with the preparation of a window opening. We cut exactly the foam, remove everything that does not hold well, clean off the dust, if necessary, we pass along the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, a wooden bar is attached. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost go on the frame. One side of the bar must be worked out with a planer, making a slope. The slope angle of this face is equal to the slope setting angle. You can saw off, but it’s even more difficult to make, except that there is a circular saw with adjustable angle.

We fasten the processed bar to the walls along the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall. If the wall is brick, you can try on self-tapping screws, you need to put dowels in concrete.

You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the bar, fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with brackets from construction stapler if this is not the case, you can use small cloves or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

When choosing a starting profile, take a tight one. It is more expensive, but you only care about three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold plastic well, a soft one will bend and look ugly. Another point - when mounting the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all, or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining the vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them off exactly at an angle of 45 °. If there are small gaps, they can be repaired with acrylic.

According to this technology, it is more convenient to start the installation of reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed start profile. They are also better to take from expensive and dense, with a thick layer of plastic. If you put cheap ones (ceiling ones), then the front wall is thin, and jumpers will be visible in bright light. In addition, such plastic can be pushed through even with a finger.

The width of the plastic panel should be greater than the slope. If one is not wide enough, two are joined. But then, at the junction, an additional vertical bar will be needed, to which the first strip will be fixed.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the opening line. After removing, cut off along the marked line.

We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with mounting foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make it happen, we start from the far lower corner - we draw from the bottom up near the nailed bar. While we reached the top, the bottom of the foam expanded a little. Again we draw a line with foam, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the tracks thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should be. Align and check. Attach to the wall with masking tape. Also install the second part and then the top. It can also be cut out according to a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match with sandpaper.

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued to the liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly at the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue on both shelves of the corner, press it, passing your hand along it, hold for a couple of minutes. So they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, until the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

After a day, we remove the adhesive tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light, it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two, your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it.

Video

See this video for the option of installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame.

Video option for installing slopes made of plastic without a starting profile.

And another way in this video. Here, pay attention to the finish of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.

Surely window slopes, brought a lot of trouble, not one home master. The installation of plastic windows is completed, and the craftsmen left behind a terrible-looking slopes, which now need repair.
In fact, do-it-yourself finishing is not such a difficult matter, the main thing is to figure out which option is better and more reliable based on individual characteristics premises and general repairs.
In this article, I will describe three of the most popular and available ways finishing slopes, each of which can be done with your own hands without resorting to the help of specialists.

Surely window slopes brought a lot of trouble to more than one home master

Plaster

This is probably the first thing that comes to mind. Not a single repair is complete without plaster, a huge number of articles have been written about this, so we will not dwell on how to plaster slopes with our own hands, but simply talk about the advantages and disadvantages of this material.

Advantages:

Relatively low cost of labor and materials.
If the windows are installed close to the walls, this is the only possible way to finish.

Finishing slopes with plaster

Flaws:

Plaster is not a final finish, which means that it will need puttying and painting, which largely affects the price and speed of work.
After working with plaster, there is a huge amount of debris and dirt that will be difficult to remove, especially if a comprehensive repair is not carried out.
It is not possible to install additional insulation made of foam or mineral wool.
To perform plastering work, you will need at least some skill in construction and decoration.
Plastered window slopes are not very attractive, and they require expensive paint.
Short service life. Over time, the plaster begins to crumble and leaves behind a lot of dust.

As seen, negative qualities much more, so it is better to consider other options.

Drywall

It's hard to imagine a more popular finishing material. Almost everything is made of drywall today, and window slopes are no exception. Of course, a beginner may face a number of difficulties, but unlike plaster, there will be much less of them.

Pros:

Relatively low cost of the material and components to it.
Minimum waste after work.
You can make slopes on the windows without the involvement of specialists and completely with your own hands, which also affects the final cost.
If the opening allows, you can do additional insulation from foam.
Mechanical damage to a drywall slope can be easily repaired by yourself, you only need paint and, in extreme cases, putty.
Properly installed window slopes will last for many years without additional restoration and repair.

Drywall is a popular building material

Drywall also has its drawbacks, which cannot be ignored.

Minuses:

A large number of additional materials, such as paint, decorative corners, and wooden blocks.
All types of drywall are sensitive to high humidity, so in rooms with aggressive environment this material should not be used.
Styrofoam insulation is necessary, without it, condensate will form under the surface, which will eventually destroy drywall slopes.
Do-it-yourself installation provides for the presence of a certain tool that is not found in every home.

Almost everything is made of drywall today, and window slopes are no exception.

Installation of plasterboard window slopes

Below is detailed instructions how to make slopes on the windows, but first of all, you need to prepare everything that you may need. This applies to both materials and a set of tools.

Materials:

Drywall sheet.
Wooden bars.
Decorative corners both internal and external.
Putty and paint.
Dowels for attaching wooden bars to the wall and self-tapping screws for attaching drywall.
Styrofoam sheet, desired thickness.
Glue to fix corners and other materials that cannot or are difficult to drill.

Drywall installation and finished construction

Tool:

A utility or construction knife with breakaway blades for cutting drywall and foam board.
Hacksaw for sawing wood blocks.
Simple scissors to fit the corners.
Perforator or drill with impact mode.
Hammer, tape measure, pencil for measuring and marking material.
Screwdriver or nozzle on a drill for tightening self-tapping screws.
Rollers, brushes, spatulas with which paint will be applied.
Grout with sandpaper for leveling the surface after puttying.

Now that everything you need is at hand, you can start decorating.
First of all, it is necessary to fix the wooden blocks around the perimeter of the window and flush with the wall. They are attached with dowels with a plastic base.

Advice! before fixing the wooden bars with your own hands, it is better to treat them with special impregnations with mold protection. After that, they must be thoroughly dried for several hours in the open air.

Plasterboard slope installation scheme

Next, with a clerical knife, we cut a sheet of drywall and foam. The insulation is placed between the bars and pressed against the finished slope segment. Drywall is screwed into wooden blocks in increments of 10-20 cm around the entire perimeter.
After all the slopes on the windows are fixed, we proceed to puttying. The mixture is applied in a thin layer on the sheet, and closes the caps of the screws and possible irregularities. It is better to apply several layers, this will create additional protection against mechanical stress.
The next step after the coating has dried is painting. This coverage does not require special efforts and skills, most importantly, do not stain plastic windows. To do this, they can be pre-glued with masking tape, which is then easily removed.
Now the paint should dry thoroughly, after which you can proceed to decorating the corners. Plastic corners are cut to the desired length and fixed to the surface with glue.

Important! When making repairs with your own hands, the main thing is not to pour glue onto the corners, since its excess will subsequently be very difficult to remove.

The slopes on the windows are ready and you can immediately notice how your plastic windows have changed. But do not rush to start work, there is another way to fix unpleasant slopes and, perhaps, it will suit you better.

Gluing plasterboard on slopes

Plastic

Plastic panels- no less popular material than drywall, and moreover, their set positive qualities even more than the competitor.

Pros:

Plastic slopes on the windows are not at all afraid of moisture, which means that they can be installed in rooms with an aggressive environment.
After installation, this material does not require paint or putty.
Huge variety of colors and textures.
Since paint is not applied to the surface, plastic panels do not need regular renovation and restoration.

Plastic slopes for windows

Add here also all the items from the list related to gypsum sheets, except for the fifth, since this is rather a minus.

Minuses:

Installation without foam will lead to freezing and destruction of slopes.
If you use not corners for decoration, but special profiles, the process will become much more complicated, since the panel will have to be inserted into the profile, and this is often very difficult.
Any damage cannot be restored, and you will have to completely change the panel, and with it all the corners.

The predominance of positive qualities is obvious, which means that you can proceed to repair.

Plastic slopes for windows

Installation of plastic window slopes

We will not waste time on another list of tools, since it differs little from the one above, but rather, we will immediately move on to the installation and how to do it correctly and with our own hands.
As in the first case, we start with the installation of bars and foam. After that, we attach the starting profile to the window frame with glue, for reliability it can be fixed to the bar on the building brackets.
Next, to the bar that runs along the wall, we attach the F-profile, and now comes the most difficult stage - the installation of panels.
Since the profiles fixed by us are plastic, they bend easily, this will help to bring the panel into the F-profile. But first, we insert one edge of our slope into the starting element and push it all the way.

After replacement and installation of double-glazed windows, window openings need to be finished. And if only a specialist is required to install the window, then run Finishing work everyone can. This process has simple technology, therefore, it is not at all difficult to install slopes made of plastic with your own hands. Practical, inexpensive, easy-to-use plastic panels are mounted in just 3-4 hours, completely changing appearance window opening.

In order to qualitatively install the slopes, you should clean the surfaces of the opening well and prepare everything necessary tools and materials. Plastic panels must have a thickness of at least 8 mm, and in length and width correspond to the parameters of the opening. Too thin plastic will not last long, moreover, it can be easily damaged during installation.

In addition to the panels for work, you will need:

You can start finishing not earlier than 36 hours after the installation of the double-glazed window. During this time, the mounting foam on which the frame is installed has time to completely harden, and even accidentally touching the structure, it will not work to move it.

Now you need to clean and prepare the walls of the opening by performing the following operations:

Production and installation of plastic slopes

When the walls of the opening are dry, a vapor barrier film is glued around the perimeter. At the joints, the pieces of the film are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The edges of the film must not protrude beyond the window frame. After that, proceed to the manufacture of slopes.

Step 1. Installation of the starting profile

The starting profile is screwed along the outer edge of the window frame with short self-tapping screws. At the corners, when connecting a horizontal bar to a vertical one, the profile is fixed so that its inner walls fit snugly against each other, without gaps and cracks.

Step 2. Fastening wooden slats

Fastening wooden slats

They take slats 15 mm thick and 40 mm wide, cut them to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. With the help of driven dowels, the rails are fixed around the perimeter with the flat side to the surface so that their edges do not go beyond the plane of the wall. Both the top and side rails must be set horizontally and vertically using a level. If the walls of the opening are not even enough, thin wedges are placed under the slats.

Step 3. Cutting slopes

Very accurately measure the length and width of the walls of the opening, as well as the angle of the bevel on each side. Cut lines are marked on the panel and, using a jigsaw or a sharp knife, slope blanks are cut out.

By the way, about the plastering of slopes with your own hands - you can read on our website.

The resulting parts are applied to the walls and to the upper part of the opening, their location and tightness in the corners are checked.

Step 4. Installation of slopes

The F-shaped profile is cut to the size of the outer perimeter of the opening and the ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. A section of the profile is applied to the rail so that it is completely covered with plastic, but does not block the groove for attaching the slope. Fix the profile on the rail with stapler staples. The rest of the segments are mounted in the same way.

The blank of the upper slope is laid in the upper starting profile, having previously covered it with a sealant. Holding the slope on the weight, fill the gap between the panel and the wall with a heater. The insulation layer should not be too thick or have voids. The outer edge of the slope is brought into the groove of the profile and pressed lightly to align the panel.

Next, side slopes are installed, carefully distributing the heat-insulating material. If the outer walls are insulated, there is no need to additionally insulate the slopes. In this case, the voids between the panels and the base base of the slopes are filled with mounting foam. It is very important not to overdo it here, as excess foam can squeeze out the panels or arch them. It is desirable to use foam with a low coefficient of expansion, apply it in small portions, evenly distributing it along the height of the gap.

Step 5. Finishing

The places where the panels fit together and to the window sill must be well degreased. Next, the seams and cracks are filled with acrylic sealant. With a clean cloth soaked in acetone, wipe off traces of glue and sealant on the panels and profile, plaster the area of the opening under the windowsill.

Plastic slopes are also used to decorate the doorway. The installation process is slightly different from the installation window slopes. The surface of the opening is prepared in exactly the same way: the hardened foam around door frame cut with a knife, the walls are cleaned of wallpaper, paint or plaster, all cracks are carefully sealed with mortar. If it is planned to fix the slopes on the surface itself, it should be leveled with a cement-sand mortar. If will be used frame technology, it is enough to seal cracks and deep recesses.

For work you will need:

Step 1 Mounting the frame

Measure the width of the walls of the opening from the door frame to the corner line. Reiki is sawn into pieces according to measurements. Horizontal lines are marked on the side walls with a pencil at a distance of 50-60 cm. According to the marking, holes are drilled for the dowels and the rails are fixed. If the surface is uneven, use mounting wedges or thin bars that are placed under the rails. 3 transverse bars are attached to the lintel - 2 in the corners and one in the middle.

Step 2. Panel cutting

Cut lines are marked on the panel with a pencil, forming a slope. The angle of inclination is especially carefully measured, because the mismatch of the joints is not always possible to close up imperceptibly. All fragments should be 10-12 cm wider than the sheathed surface in order to close the edges of the corners. It is necessary to cut three blanks - 2 side and one on the lintel. After that, the blanks are attached to the walls of the opening and the correctness of the cutting is checked.

Step 3. Installation of slopes

Take the first slope and apply it to the wall of the doorway. Having aligned the joints at the corners, on the back side of the workpiece, mark the fold line with a pencil. With a sharp knife, a vertical cut is made in the cavity of the panel, leaving the whole front side. The slope is again applied to the surface, leveled and screwed with small screws to the frame.

When the main part of the slope is fixed, screw the protruding edge. To do this, determine the border of the panel, retreat from it 2 cm to the opening and draw a vertical line. According to this marking, 6-7 holes are drilled, wooden wedges are hammered into them, and then the edge of the slope is pressed against the wall and screwed, setting the screws at the level of the wedges. Instead of wedges, dense wooden corks can be used.

A second side slope is installed, after which it is sheathed with a lintel panel. The top edge of this blank should overlap the ends of the side ledges; after installation is completed, the material is carefully cut at an angle and the joints are glued. The internal seams are smeared with sealant, the excess is removed with a clean rag, if desired, the hats of the self-tapping screws are smeared to match the color of the slopes.

Video - Installation of a slope on the door

Frameless finishing method

If the walls of the opening are perfectly smooth and even, you can simply glue the slopes:

to increase adhesion, the surface is coated with a deep penetration primer and dried;
plastic panels are cut according to measurements so that the edge of the slope falls exactly on the corner of the wall;
after that, glue is applied around the perimeter of the workpiece and several strokes in the center, and then pressed to the surface;
until the glue has hardened, align the corners and edges;
glue the side slopes, then close the lintel. The side cuts of the top panel should overlap the edges of the slopes by 2-3 mm.

In conclusion, vertical seams are sealed, and along the outer perimeter of the opening, decorative platbands are attached to match the color of the door and slopes.