The content of eared has long been practiced by industrial farms and ordinary people who decided to organize a small farm on their site. Keeping fluffy animals is a pleasure, as they do not require constant attention and are quite easy to care for. For a business to succeed, animals should organize comfortable conditions residence. Today we will tell you what cages for rabbits you can make with your own hands.
When choosing a place for the future residence of animals and installing their cage houses, you need to pay attention to some parameters of the selected territory.
Cages for eared wards can be placed:
- on the street;
- indoors.
Of course, the first option is suitable only for those farms that are located on the territory of the southern regions with a consistently warm and mild climate. Otherwise, in winter time Animals won't survive outside without shelter. If you and your rabbits are planning to live in just such a fertile place, consider the following rules.
- The norm of air humidity, which is well tolerated by rabbits, has an upper limit of 75%. They will not be able to physically transfer it to a larger percentage, they will begin to wither and get sick. Based on this, a dry place should be chosen for installing the cells, located far from water bodies, best of all on a hill.
- There are recommendations regarding the sun's rays. Eared people like to bask under them only in cartoons, in life it will only bring harm and lead to epidemic diseases and death of animals. To prevent direct sunlight from falling on the cells, install them in the shade garden trees or organize awnings. If rabbit breeding is your life's work, you can plant a bush fence that will scatter the sun's rays, passing through itself.
During warming, pay attention to those cages that are prepared for pregnant rabbits and newborn rabbits.
Enclosed room requirements for rabbits
Growing, breeding and feeding rabbits
Building a comfortable cage for rabbits is less than half the battle. It is equally important to properly organize the process of keeping, feeding and breeding rabbits. Read to find out what features exist in the process of raising rabbits and what is the difference in the way they are kept.
Let's start building
Before proceeding to construction work, you need to choose the right materials that will be used in its process.
Necessary materials
When creating dwellings for rabbits, it is better to give preference to natural materials in order to bring the keeping of animals as close as possible to natural conditions. Therefore, as the basis for the cages, it is necessary to choose high quality wooden bars, which are additionally treated with antiseptics.
Additionally, to build cells, we need:
- boards and quality wood;
- thin plywood;
- welded wire mesh;
- slats made of wood, 3-4 centimeters wide;
- metal wire of medium thickness;
- wide plastic pallets according to the size of the cages;
Sheathe inner surface cage walls are best with plywood, as it is moisture resistant and strong material. Chipboard, for example, is not suitable for this purpose, as it absorbs moisture and collapses from swelling.
What are rabbit cages
All rabbit cages are built according to some general principles however, they still have differences. All the nuances of the construction depend on what breeds and individuals of the rabbit people will live inside the cells under construction. Your farm will have at least a few species, and here's why.
As you can see, cells can differ in many ways, depending on the characteristics of future residents. However, for each of them there is general instruction construction, which varies depending on the goals. Let's start reviewing it.
Important nuances
Before voicing the instruction itself, we will stipulate some important points. Standard sizes spacious rabbit cage are:
- 120-170 centimeters long;
- about 50 centimeters in height;
- 70-80 centimeters wide.
As a rule, if the cell parameters change, then only the length is reduced. Height and width remain standard, since it is these parameters that are most comfortable for care.
Mixing rabbits of different sexes in the same cage is prohibited, as this can lead to:
- uncontrolled mating;
- difficult-to-track pregnancies;
- fights between males for the attention of females;
- fights of females for the attention of males;
- strangulation by warring females of each other's offspring.
Instructions for self-building a cage for rabbits
So let's move on to step by step instructions building a cage for rabbits. We propose to consider housing for eared, consisting of two sections. In one of them, adults will live, in the second - female queens with offspring. For a while, until you have a nursing female with cubs, you can put houses for rabbits in the nesting compartment, in which they will hide when bad mood and the desire to take a break from furry cohabitants.
Let's start building.
Step 1
Take the prepared wooden bars and treat them with antiseptics. This is necessary to prevent the decay of the tree and the penetration of harmful microorganisms into its structures, which can further spoil the health of the eared.
Remember, the composition of antiseptics should be as gentle as possible and not contain a large amount of chlorine, which burns wood and destroys its structure. This is important, since the exploitation of cells is merciless and it is necessary that they serve for a long time.
Step 2
Take a wooden beam prepared ahead of time and saw it so that you get parts with the following parameters:
- 4 beams of 1.5 meters;
- the same number of bars of 55 centimeters;
- two pairs of bars of 70 centimeters.
Instead of four bars 55 centimeters long, only two and two more 35 centimeters can be made. The smaller ones will be set up as frame pieces for the back of the cage where we will place the queen nest.
Step 3
Connect the shortest and half-meter bars together to make two identical figures. If the parameters of the bars for the frame of the front and back of the cage are the same for you, then you get a rectangle, if different - a trapezoid.
Step 4
Now connect the rectangles together using pieces of wood 70 centimeters long. You should get a wooden frame structure shaped like a large box.
Step 5
Let's start installing the floor. It can be made from several different materials. Introducing comparison table the pros and cons of each of them.
| Metallic profile | fine mesh | Wooden slats | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| + | - | + | - | + | - |
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A good solution would be to use combinations, for example, the first layer can be started from metal profile, welded in the usual way, without small and frequent holes. The second layer is made from a fine mesh. The profile will prevent it from deforming and such a floor will last a long time.
It is impossible to make the floor non-mesh in the main compartment, since animal feces will pass through the holes and accumulate in the tray under the cage.
Install the selected material on most of the future floor of the cage and fix it with fasteners. Leave 40-50 centimeters blank
Step 6
The rest of the unfilled space under the floor must be made of wood and solid, as there will be a rabbit's nest. It is best to screw a board to the bars, always well polished, so that the animal does not get injured. At the junction of the cells and the board, screw in a metal rail and weld the mesh to it.
Step 7
Let's move on to wall coverings. The back is also made of boards sanded and impregnated with sparing antiseptics. The front is made mesh so that you can watch what your pets are doing. Leave the ceiling uncovered.
Step 8
We sheathe the plank walls from the inside of the cage using plywood. The material must be multi-layered and good quality. The thickness can be any, but it is not necessary to take a very thick sheet so as not to make the structure too weighty.
You can fasten plywood with self-tapping screws or nails. The main thing is that the sharp part of the nail does not come out from the outside and does not injure you when caring for the cage.
Step 9
We are building a roof. To do this, we need a sheet of plywood and hinges, as on doors or cabinets. At the beginning, we fasten the hinges to one of the upper bars of the frame, then we put a sheet of good plywood on them. Here it is better to choose a thicker material, because the roof of the house will constantly rise and fall. Make sure it fits snugly. If there are large gaps between the frame and the roof, harmful drafts cannot be avoided.
If it was not possible to fit the lid tightly to the frame, do not despair. Take some felt or synthetic winterizer and cover the roof around the perimeter. This can be done even if there are no gaps, since in winter period such warming will come in handy for the eared.
Step 10
At the junction of the mesh and boards, install a plank that goes from floor to ceiling and from wall to wall. Make a hole of medium size beforehand so that the rabbits can move freely from one cage to another.
Step 11
Place the cages on the supports that have been previously installed in the rabbitry. Now, from the bottom of the cage, mount the pallet. It can only match the size of the mesh part of the floor, since the feces of the rabbit and baby rabbits will not seep through the wooden floors.
Step 12
Now install feeders and drinkers inside the cages. They can also be made with your own hands from wood, in the form of small troughs. Be sure to find a place for hay. Some rabbit breeders put it in makeshift hanging structures so that the rabbits can get it out and at the same time not trample it, turning it into bedding.
Now that you've learned how to make the easiest version of rabbit cages, let's turn our attention to other popular options.
family cage
The family dwelling for the eared no longer consists of two, but of three sections. A male sire with good quality characteristics of health and appearance is settled there. Females settle in the lateral compartments, and the male in the middle compartment. Manholes are being equipped between the rooms, this time with valves. This is necessary so that at the moment one of the females is ready to conceive, release her to the inseminator, and then do the same with the other rabbit.
This cell construction option is considered very effective for breeding thoroughbred animals, as it allows you to pre-sort suitable friend other individuals and track upcoming pregnancies.
Construction features
Let's name some points in the construction of cages from three sections that will help you with the construction.
Cages for rabbits in two tiers
The construction of a two-tier structure of rabbit cages is not too different from a single-tier one. Such a structure will have the following parameters:
- height of 2 - 2.5 meters;
- width of 1.4 meters;
- along the edges of the structure, every 10 centimeters are given over to the installation of feeders.
Dimensions may vary depending on your idea, but making a smaller cage is not rational.
Building instructions
So, we proceed to the construction of a two-tier cage.
| A photo | Step |
|---|---|
 | Step 1. In the same way as in the first instruction, we connect the bars to make four frame frames. Each of them will serve as the bottom and top for two cages. We also saw off eight bars of the same height for the corner parts of the cell "skeleton". |
 | Step 2 We make floors for cages. Most, as in the case of a single-tier structure, will be mesh, the smaller one will be solid, from the board. At the back wall we leave a small distance of about 10 centimeters, where we will place a drain for animal waste. This distance should be closed with a dense mesh with larger cells than the main one for the floor. |
 | Step 3 The back wall is made of boards, then sheathed from the inside with plywood. The side and front walls are also equipped with a mesh with medium-sized cells. |
 | Step 4 With the help of rails and metal plugs, we separate inside the house for eared compartments, leaving a place between them for a sennik in shape English letter"V". |
 | Step 5 Fasten in the compartment for the slope of waste metal sheets, going to the tray under the cage. Each cage has its own collection of feces and is installed so that it can be pulled out and cleaned. For the upper tier, it is placed on the ceiling of the lower tier, and for the lower tier, it is placed on special corners of the stand, built into the holding frame for cages. |
 | Step 6 We equip roofs for each of the tiers of plywood, nailed with felt or dense linoleum. |
To care for animals in cages, make a hinged back wall or roof.
Video - Cage for rabbits, independent construction
Cell according to the Mikhailov method
To date, there are many popular ways of breeding eared. One of the most effective is Mikhailov's mini-farm. Features of the mini-farm are as follows. It allows you to get a large number of healthy offspring and grow them into productive sexually mature individuals with minimal attention from the farmer.
Design features of the Mikhailov mini-farm allow you to achieve the following positive effects.
Cleansing of cells occurs without human intervention. And we are talking not only about animal feces, but also about food waste containing harmful fumes. Rabbits do not inhale them and remain healthy. Due to the fact that inside the rabbit houses such a high level hygiene, insect carriers of infection do not fly inside, since they simply have nothing to profit from.
Adding food and adding water to the feeders occurs once a week. Yes, now you are relieved of the need to constantly monitor the presence of these nutrients in the cells of the wards every day. The fact is that the feeders are constantly filled by themselves, as the food from the feeders is eaten. Another plus is that in winter the water in the drinkers is automatically heated.
Zones for sucrose and calving rabbits with offspring also warm up in frosts, which makes it possible to cross animals all year round and ensure the health of newborns.
The internal structure of the cell is as close as possible to natural conditions, which provokes the connection of instincts in animals. So, the mother liquor resembles an animal hole, since it is located below the main level of the cell, and the entrance to it really imitates a rabbit hole. The ceiling in the nesting compartment is tilted, as if it really is not a cage, but an eared dugout.
Open areas of the wall alternate with closed ones so that rabbits can get privacy and take a break from attention from humans or other animals.
Mikhailov's cage is also equipped with hinged doors that allow the rabbits to take the rabbit in unnoticed or, vice versa, add it. This is necessary when the birth of too small or large litter in one individual. If there are too many cubs, the mother can kill or eat several alive. In this case, it is imperative to transplant the cub and transfer it to the uterus in which a small offspring was born.
The part of the cage that is installed to the north is insulated. The south side, on the contrary, is equipped with ventilation to Fresh air entered the houses. The roof is equipped with a pipe through which gases from animal feces are emitted. Feeders and drinkers are sealed so that waste does not get into them.
Design Considerations
The area of each cell is 1.4 m 2 . Inside is placed up to 25 heads. The main structural element is a shed - a shed, consisting of several tiers of rabbit cages in one or two tiers. Such a shed can contain 70 houses. If we take this number as a basis, then queens will live in 35 of them, and adult males and young rabbits will live in the rest.
It is customary to make about two rows of cells, occupying together 8.5 m 2. These cells have only one roof.
Implemented cell "Mikhailov"
The shelf life of Mikhailov's mini-farm is about 20 years. Further, it will have to be updated or completely replaced with a new design.
Necessary materials
We warn you, if you do not have sufficient experience in construction, it is easier to purchase a Mikhailov cage. But if you are sure that you can handle it, stock up on the following materials:
- sheets of plywood;
- paint;
- nails;
- roofing iron;
- wooden beam;
- boards;
- ruberoid;
- Fiberboard soft and hard;
- picket fence.
Assembling the stand
Assemble the stand by carefully examining its image in the photo. In the horizontal section of the stand there will be a supporting part for a makeshift transformer compartment, as well as shelves for tools and a bench. Here they arrange a laz rectangular shape, leading from a sealed tank to a hopper for collecting excrement, merging into it along the shaft walls. The shaft is covered with fiberboard and roofing felt, resistant to frost and moisture.
Walking area and nests
Two pairs of racks are mounted on the stand, the cross section of which should not exceed 10 centimeters. They will be supported by a tier below, consisting of several compartments, in which the rabbits are caught for inspection or deposited.
The walking compartment is equipped with a drinking bowl and a feeder. In its lower part there is a hole measuring 20 by 20 centimeters, which goes into the mine. The floor is lined with a fence laid on slats, which are upholstered with strips of metal to protect against rodents. The flooring is made at an angle of 45 degrees.
The nest compartment is equipped with a hinged door, which leans back and forms a free area for interacting with the rabbits. The location of the bottom of the mother liquor goes down relative to the level of the main floor by 9 centimeters. Outside, the walls of the house for mother and babies are insulated with any available materials. The entrance to the department is also insulated. For its arbitrary overlap, a view is installed.
Drinkers and feeders
The drinker is represented by an automatic structure. The water trough itself can be anything, even a plastic bowl, even a wooden one. This bowl has outlets from several 5 liter canisters. Centimeter holes are drilled in each canister lid so that the water drains down gradually and only when the rabbit has drunk enough so that the trough does not overfill.
What size the area of the drinking compartment will have directly depends on the capacity and size of the canister itself, as well as the trough. The door to the compartment is made of plywood and metal sheet. One end of the watering trough should be hidden from the rabbits in order to install a small electric heater there, which automatically starts working when the air temperature drops below + 8 ° C.
A feeder is installed next to the drinker, into which compound feed in granules is poured. It is installed in a small gap between the parts of the flooring, in which the disposal device is located. Waste gets into it - crumbs and flour, as well as pellets trampled by rabbits. And from there they roll into the disposal.
The feed bowl for roughage is located at the top and bottom of the farm. From the outside of the cage, a tank is hung to it, in which hay and vegetables are laid.
Installation of the upper tier
The upper tier can serve as a mother and jigging level. In the first case, it is made at an angle, in the same way as described above. The second is divided into two sections different sizes, in which little rabbits will then be placed.
The length of the upper tier is 25 centimeters longer than the lower one. A drinker and a feeder are also installed in each of the sections according to the methods described above.
Roof
The roof is made inclined, a pipe for ventilation of the premises is mounted on top of it. This pipe is necessary to remove accumulations of harmful fumes from the cell, which are released during the life of the eared.
Bottom part
At the bottom of the cage is equipped with a box into which rabbit droppings are poured. This allows the use of animal excrement for gardening purposes and eliminates the need for the farmer to constantly clean the cages from faeces.
Mikhailov's cage - effective option for the rabbit business. This design requires minimal labor and time costs from the farmer. So, it takes about half an hour a week to care for animals - to fill the feeders, drinkers and clean the pallets. The eared ones kept in such a farm gain such weight in three months of their life that rabbits in the usual content can only get at 6-8 months.
Cages for rabbits Zolotukhina
Another famous farm concept for efficient rabbit breeding. Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin studied the life of rabbits in natural conditions from an early age and, in the prime of his career, developed this amazing structure that increases the efficiency of raising rabbits by activating their natural instincts.
Zolotukha cage farm has three tiers, it is made quite simply. Let's start reviewing the instructions for its manufacture.
To build a cage, we need:
- wooden bars;
- boards;
- metal grid;
- sheet iron;
- quality polycarbonate;
- slate.
Building instructions
So, first of all, let's determine the dimensions of the future cell:
- the width of the rabbit dwelling is 2 meters;
- building height - 1.5;
- the depth of the structure is not more than 80 centimeters;
- rear floor slope - 5 centimeters;
- the mesh at the back wall takes 20 centimeters;
- doors are made in the form of a square with 40 centimeters of length on one side.
Let's start building.
| A photo | Step |
|---|---|
 | Step 1. Scaffolds for cells are assembled according to the method already familiar to you. Each of them is divided into two equal halves, between which there is a small distance for placing a sennik. |
 | Step 2 For the floor this time, not a mesh is used, but a durable slate. When laying and attaching sheets of slate to the frame, expect that you need to retreat 20 centimeters from the back wall. This space is covered with a welded mesh, through which the feces of the eared will leave. |
 | Step 3 Now let's start making the walls. The back walls are made from carbonate sheets at a certain angle. The upper part of each of the walls is mounted to the end of the slate floor of the next tier in height. At the topmost tier, it is straight. Thanks to this design, rabbit droppings roll over the walls of each of the tiers and eventually fall into the pan. |
 | Step 4 We make a door for queen cells and feed compartments. In the first case, we prepare it from wood and insulate it to create right conditions for rabbits. In the second - we make from the grid. |
 | Step 5 Nests for summer content are also made with mesh walls. They are separated from the remaining space by a wooden partition, which can then be removed and a spacious cage for young animals can be obtained. Winter queen cells are wooden, with closed walls. The entrance to it is also wooden, with a closing hole, the lower part of which is in contact with the floor. Hay is spread on the floor. |
 | Step 6 We make feeders. These devices are a tray that occupies most of the cage wall located in front. The feeder is inserted into the cage only one third, its bottom is made at an angle. This is necessary so that the feeder can be filled from the outside without opening the cage. A drinker is also installed inside. |
Zolotukhin cells are famous and have been successful for many decades. The ease of manufacture makes them popular and the rabbit breeding effect is amazing.
Cages for dwarf rabbits: step by step instructions
Not only farmers can make a cage for a rabbit, but also those who have chosen this cute animal as their pets. Of course, it is easier to buy such a structure, but it costs a lot of money, which can instead be spent on buying vitamins and food for the eared.
Making a rabbit house with your own hands will take very little time and will not require serious labor.
Step 1. Assemble the cage frame according to the mechanism described above. This time the wireframe parameters will be as follows:
- length - 1 meter;
- the height of the bars for the back wall is 55 centimeters;
- the height of the bars for the side walls is 70 centimeters;
- frame width - 70 centimeters.
Step 2 Assemble the frame so that there is a distance of 15 centimeters between the lower end of the back wall and the future floor.
Step 3 At the bottom of the cage, nail wide wooden slats or install a welded metal profile mesh. This support is needed to stiffen the future mesh floor. When the rails or profile are installed, mount a fine mesh on top.
Step 4 Make cage walls. The back can be made from plywood or boards, and the rest from a metal mesh with medium-sized cells. Make one of the walls also plywood or wood and cut a hole in it for the door.
Step 5 Make a door out of wooden frame and metal mesh and put on loops to the hole.
Summing up
Now you know many of the most popular ways to build rabbit cages. The choice of the option that suits you will be based on the following nuances:
- starting budget;
- rabbit breeding experience;
- region of residence;
- livestock size, etc.
The main requirement is high quality construction
So, for example, cages using the Mikhailov mini-farm method will help to minimize labor costs and loss of time for caring for animals, however, it is very difficult to place this serious structure inside the barn, which makes the use of the structure in regions with long cold winters almost impossible. In addition, the equipment of such a cage requires money and construction experience. Beginning rabbit breeders will not benefit from spending so much money, especially if they are not sure that they want to keep rabbits for many years.
Zolotukhin cells do not require large financial costs, but imply that the number of rabbits contained in them will not be small. Therefore, this option is not entirely rational for farmers starting out in the rabbit business.
Breeding rabbits in households can be profitable, as well as turn into continuous losses. Rabbits actively breed, grow quickly, eat green fodder, and their meat and skins are expensive - and this brings considerable profit to the breeder. However, they are capricious in keeping and subject to high mortality. Therefore, the construction of rabbitry should be given the closest attention. We will talk about how to create a rabbitry with your own hands in this article.
The word "bunny" has a double meaning. This is the name of the room where the rabbit enclosures are located, as well as cages made together and mini-farms standing on the street.
Most often, rabbitries are heated and lit rooms with good ventilation, where there are cages in tiers. In regions with a mild climate, open rabbitries are more often used, which are a structure of two or three walls covered with a canopy.
Rabbit Hut - inside view
A good rabbitry must meet the following requirements:
- create comfortable conditions for living and breeding animals;
- be convenient in service for a person of average height and build;
- have a well-thought-out system for removing waste products from cells and their subsequent disposal.
The buildings for the rabbitry are made one-story and rectangular. They are built according to GOST 23838.
In practice, cages with these animals can also be placed in a frame-type barn.
Common designs and their features
A standard indoor rabbitry is a closed room equipped with lighting, ventilation and heating systems, less often with a water supply system. There are cages in long rows, usually in three tiers. Between them there are passages, the optimal width of which is 1.5 m. Often part of the rabbitry is separated for technical rooms and food storage.
Tiered mini-farms
Rabbit in a hole
This is one of the most controversial decisions, supporters and opponents of such a design are approximately equally divided.
An example of a "pit" keeping of rabbits
Advantages of "pit" content:
- burrow life is natural for rabbits;
- in the pits, the microclimate, humidity and temperature normal for rabbits are naturally formed;
- animals breed all year round;
- good litter survival;
- animals get sick less often and gain weight better;
- feed is given to all animals at once, this saves time and effort.
Cons of "pit" content:
- it is impossible to regulate mating;
- it is difficult to monitor the condition of individual individuals;
- difficult to catch animals;
- there is a chance that the rabbits will dig under the walls and escape.
Example No. 1 of keeping rabbits in pits 
Example No. 2 of keeping rabbits in pits 
Example No. 3 of keeping rabbits in pits
For pit keeping in rabbitry, a hole is dug 1 to 2 meters deep around the entire perimeter. The floor and walls are concreted to prevent escapes. The resulting pit is covered with sand about 20 cm thick, on which a mesh is laid for ease of cleaning. Inside they put feeders, drinkers, and you can run rabbits.
According to a number of farmers, pit content is the best option, as it is as close as possible to the natural living conditions of rabbits. It is believed that the meat characteristics of underground rabbits are much better. However, with all the advantages, the organization of such housing is associated with a number of difficulties. deal with rabbits in the pits in.
All-weather version with insulated compartments
The climate of Russia is such that in most of its territory the winter is too cold for keeping rodents on outdoors or in uninsulated rooms. Therefore, for the successful maintenance of rabbits, you need to think about warming. There are two options here, and to achieve the best result, they must be combined. Either heat the rabbitry, or insulate the compartments themselves, which contain the animals.
The temperature in the place of their maintenance should not fall below -5. The range from +5 to +15-20 degrees is considered ideal for this time of year. Approaching the upper threshold of the specified range is most desirable; in warmth, rabbits breed well and gain weight. This will help prevent seasonal "breaks" in this type of business.
In the mother liquor, the temperature should not fall below 10 degrees, otherwise the rabbits may die, or, under the best circumstances, they will lag significantly behind in development, and the farmer will spend more on keeping the cubs than he will ultimately receive profits. Keep in mind that rabbits are born naked and are very sensitive to cold. Although the female herself takes care of heating the cubs and warming the nest, both mole rats, and already grown up, and rabbits that have grown hair - low temperatures, everything is even, harmful. Systematic freezing leads to slow growth and poor weight gain, as well as a decrease in immunity.
The original method of warming the compartments was invented by Russian rabbit breeders. A “pocket” made of thick plywood is attached to the bottom of the compartment, where an electric heating pad of the EG-1 brand (or another) is inserted. With the help of a transformer, the heating pad, if necessary, is switched on to a reduced mode, thereby heating the floor of the cage.
Basic principles to follow when creating a rabbitry
Regardless of the design of the rabbitry and cages chosen, there are certain sanitary and hygienic standards that must be observed. In particular, there are certain standards for lighting, temperature and cage ventilation. When creating a rabbitry, they must be followed.
Types and sizes of cells
From the description of large structures, let's move on to small ones, that is, to cells. They can be used both autonomously, for keeping one or two animals separately from the rest, or stand in a barn-type rabbitry or be part of a collapsible mini-farm complex.
There are a lot of options for cages for rabbits. But all of them can be divided into three conditional groups, depending on the purpose.
mother liquors
These are cages of a special design, where rabbits are placed for lambing. There she gives birth and lives with the cubs until they reach twenty days of age.
A distinctive feature is the presence of a nest. It is a box made from improvised materials, such as plywood, and has dimensions of 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.
Nest building rules:
- it is necessary to cut a hole in the nest at a height of at least 10 cm. This is done so that too small rabbits cannot get out of the nest;
- the floor in the mother liquor should only be solid;
- the plywood from which the nest is made rots from the secretions of animals, so it is necessary to lay a piece of waterproof material on the bottom, for example, a stainless steel sheet, and a thick layer of straw on top;
- the lid is made so that it can be raised and lowered (it is best to put it on furniture hinges);
- if the mother liquor will stand on the street or in a cold room in the winter, you need to take care of heating (you can use a cheap and proven method of heating: infrared lamp placed in a special compartment).
Two-section cage with sennik for adults
This type of design is good for keeping two adult animals. At plus temperatures it is permissible to expose it outdoors, at minus temperatures it is recommended to use it indoors, including heated ones.
A two-section cage is a wooden box 1.4 - 2 m long, 0.5 to 0.7 m high and 0.5-0.7 m wide. The upper, lower, side and rear walls are made solid. It is best to use structures knocked down without gaps from sanded unpainted boards for this, but other solutions are possible, for example, from a fine mesh or from tin. In the last two cases, it is worth taking care of a rigid, strong frame that will hold the entire structure.
Drinking bowls and feeders are placed at the edges, so that the animals could not climb there with their paws.
Two-section cells can also be made multi-tiered. This will help to more rationally use the rabbitry area.
Video - Do-it-yourself two-section cage
Cage with nest
This option is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows the rabbit to lead a more natural lifestyle for him. In this case, the cage is divided into two compartments with a manhole between them. The smaller compartment is insulated with hay and serves as a nest.
group cells
Enclosures for young animals 3-6 months old, also called group cages. Animals can be both heterosexual and same-sex. Please note that uncastrated males may begin to show aggression towards each other early, in which case they must be seated in individual compartments. The typical dimensions of this cage are 120 by 50 by 40 cm.
How to create a drawing of a rabbitry
Of course, a drawing of a single cage or a whole rabbitry can be done independently, or simply fit any of the above options to fit your size. The main parameter you need to know is the number of rabbits that you plan to keep in a cage.
- For one young animal, a minimum of 0.1-0.2 m2 is required. For a comfortable stay, this rate should be increased to 0.5 m2. Males, which are planned to be put into breeding, need 2 times more space.
- An adult animal needs at least half a meter of free space. Ideally, a meter to be able to fully move.
- For rabbits of large breeds, these standards must be increased. The dimensions should be such that the animal can freely stretch out to its full length along the cage, without resting its body against the walls, and can sit without touching the lid with its ears.
- There must be a separate nest in the mother liquor. Its typical dimensions are 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.
When the dimensions are determined, you can proceed to the drawing. You should start by drawing a top view: draw a rectangle of the required dimensions, if necessary, divide it into compartments. Then, on the drawing, all elements are indicated: partitions, doors, manholes, feeders, etc. Dimensions are affixed everywhere. Based on the top view, the side view is drawn. An imaginary section should pass through the most technologically complex section, for example, along the mother liquor nest. The sizes must match. You can draw a bottom view, paying special attention to the legs and the supporting structure.
Nuances in the manufacture of rabbitry
If you are building a cage for the first time, here are a few tips that will come in handy. They are not obvious to new farmers and will help to avoid mistakes.
Watching a video, where you can personally observe the construction process by professionals, also helps to avoid mistakes.
Video - Step by step building a cage for rabbits
Tools and materials
To build a rabbitry, you do not need anything particularly rare or expensive. Of the tools, the usual is enough building set. The presence of a welding machine will be a plus.
Usually, lining, timber or ordinary boards are taken for construction. Only their use is not recommended, rabbits gnaw through the tree. Therefore, it is combined with the following materials:
Let's analyze: what materials are the parts for creating cells.
- Frame. It is made from wooden blocks.
- Side and back walls. They are made from thick boards. There are recommendations to make walls from plywood, but you should not do this. Plywood is less durable, warps, delaminates and bubbles from moisture, and, most importantly, rabbits quickly gnaw through it.
- front wall. Made from fine mesh. Iron mesh can only be taken if it is painted or coated, otherwise it will rust.
- Floor. It is made from fine mesh or boards stuffed in parallel.
- Roof. It is made of wood, roofing material, slate. But corrugated board can be used exclusively for covering cages standing under a canopy or indoors - it gets very hot in the sun.
How to choose a seat
Whether you want to build a building, a mini-farm, or just put a few cages under a shed, you need to start by choosing the right place.
taken in Russian Federation building codes allowed to erect personal plot outbuilding with an area of 15 sq. m. and a building for keeping farm animals or poultry with an area of 40 sq. m. The residential building must be at least 15 m away from the two above-mentioned buildings.
Additionally, you need to take care of the following:
Even if there is no place on your personal plot that fully satisfies all these conditions, try to get as close to the ideal as possible. Small discrepancies are not critical.
Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners
At first glance, it seems that such a structure is very difficult to build on your own, but this is just an illusion. Even for a delitant, it is quite possible to make a rabbitry on your own, spending from several hours to several days of time on it.
If you decide to build a rabbitry with your own hands, the algorithm of actions should be as follows.
Step 1. Using the above tips, choose a place for the future rabbitry, decide on its size, layout, material for construction.
Step 2 Build the cage frame according to the dimensions in the drawing. It can be wood or metal. If several cells stand side by side, the frame must be solid.
Step 3 With the help of a joiner's square and a level, a shelf and an upper frame are attached to the frame;
Step 4 The bottom and lid are assembled on a frame made of wooden beams or they are cut separately from thick plywood. In the latter case, at the corners it is necessary to cut holes for the legs.
Step 5 The bottom and lid are attached to the frame.
Step 6 A mesh is nailed to the door. Attach it to the frame with furniture dowels.
We nail the frame, in which there will be a grid in the future
Step 7 Upholstered with a net or clog the sides of the cage with boards. The mesh is cut with scissors for metal and put on self-tapping screws with a screwdriver.
Help in the construction will also help watching the video of the manufacturing process.
Video - Do-it-yourself rabbit cage from professionals
This video shows in detail all the stages of construction, are given helpful tips newcomers.
As can be seen from the article, making a rabbitry with your own hands is quite realistic even for a beginner. You just need to strictly follow the advice, and everything will work out.
Subsistence farming has always been profitable. You can keep chickens, pigs, and goats, but rabbits have always been especially popular, because they are unpretentious and do not require special feed. But they definitely need special cages for rabbits, it’s not customary to keep these animals in the barn.
Cell sizes
Before building rabbit cages, you need to find a blueprint that you will work from. On the Internet, you can find ready-made or draw a drawing yourself. To do this, you need to know the size of the cages for rabbits. Beginning rabbit breeders should be aware that one cage is not enough for them to breed these animals. We need several houses for rabbits, at least three.
For adult rabbits
Two adult rabbits will fit in a house of two sections. Its minimum dimensions are: length - 140 cm (preferably 210-240 cm), width - 60-70 cm, height - 50-70 cm. Between the two compartments there is a feeder for grass and hay. A rabbit house can also be made on two floors, which will help save space.
House of two sections for adult rabbits
Cage for young animals
In cages for rabbits, namely for young animals, rabbits are kept in groups. Making a cage is simple: the minimum dimensions of a dwelling for young animals: 200–300 cm per 100 cm, height - 35–60 cm. At least 0.12 square meters area. Sometimes separate cells are not made for young animals, but kept in ordinary ones, for adults, calculating the number of individuals according to the area they need.
House for a rabbit with offspring
A house for rabbits with children, for breeding, consists of aft and uterine parts, which are separated by a partition. It has a hole. It should be located just above the floor (10-15 cm) so that the rabbits cannot get out of the nest. Houses for rabbits (mother liquor) has dimensions of 0.4 by 0.4 m and a height of 20 cm. It is placed in the uterine compartment just before birth. Here is an approximate drawing of a cell with a queen cell.
Drawing of a cell with a mother liquor
For giant rabbits
The size of the cage also depends on the size of the giant rabbits. If you have purchased giants, they will be cramped in standard enclosures, you need large houses. To breed giant rabbits, you need a dwelling 0.75 m wide, 0.55 m high, and 1.7 m long. This is the minimum, it would be nice to make it larger.
Cell manufacturing rules
If you decide to build your own rabbit cages with your own hands, you need to know some rules so that you don’t have to make a new one in a few months.
- Rabbits are rodents, so for those who want to keep rabbit cages, it is better to protect all parts of the wooden frame that are located inside the cage by covering it with metal. It will take only a few hours, but then the rabbit cage will last 10 years longer.
- Antiseptic must not be used. Pets can get poisoned.
- The roof must not be damaged by moisture. For her, it is better to use slate. If your rabbits will live outside, don't make a metal roof. Under the influence of the sun, it heats up, and the animals will be uncomfortable in this stuffy space.
- For the frame of the rabbit houses, a beam (50x50 mm) is used. Can also be made from metal. For sheathing, a chain-link mesh is suitable, the cells of which are 25x25 mm. The mesh is needed for the facade, for the sides of houses and doors. The back is always made deaf, because. drafts are harmful to them.
- In order to build a floor, they take a grid with cells of 25x25 mm or 10x25. Because of this, feces do not accumulate inside the cell, but are collected in a special bunker or roll down to the ground along an inclined path. You will not see a solid floor in a rabbitry.
When building a cage for rabbits, you must follow some rules
Rabbits have very caustic urine that soaks into the solid floor and causes the wood to rot. If not a mesh, then the floor can be covered with bars, between which there are gaps of 0.5 - 1 cm. Experienced rabbit breeders advise laying a small sheet of plywood on the floor. Then the rabbits will not have pododermatitis. But it must be constantly removed and washed, dried.
How to build a rabbit hutch
If you want to build correctly with your own hands, then it will help you step-by-step instruction. This is the simplest cage that can only be kept indoors. According to this instruction, it is possible to make cages for rabbits and for the street, but use OSB.
The drawing can be made by yourself, focusing on the dimensions of the cage for rabbits: the size is 1.5 by 0.7 m and the height is 0.7 m. m, with a height of 1.2 m in front and 1 m in the back. It is not difficult to make a drawing of such a cage.
How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands? Here is a step by step guide. Prepare all the necessary materials:
- plywood, 2 sheets (* 1.5 by 1.5 m), thickness - 10 mm;
- bars, 10 pieces: length 3 m, 30*50 mm;
- metal mesh with cells 15 mm, 3 m;
- self-tapping screws 30 and 70 mm, 2 kg;
- tools for work.
Frame manufacturing. On hard smooth surface we assemble a frame measuring 3 m by 0.7 m and a height of 1.2 in front and 1 m behind the structure. The frame must be on legs.
We attach a mesh to the floor of the future cage, it may not reach the edges of the cage, because. there will be a queen. The floor of the mother liquor is solid.
We make the back wall: cut it to size and attach it to the screws over the entire area. Fix plywood sheets along the edges of the cage where there is no mesh - these are future queen cells.
Start working on queen cells. To do this, attach a bar located vertically and screw a wall to it, make a hole in it according to the rules. Bars are attached to the walls of the mother liquor, and the lid of the mother liquor is fixed on them.
Cage for rabbits: making queen cells
Making a feeder: You need to make a device for feeding. In the middle of the cage we attach a vertical bar, two feeders 7 cm high and 30 cm wide are attached to it. Two bars are attached above the feeder at a distance of 20 cm, these are guides. From plywood, you need to make a frame for the feed, a special device, the top of which fits between the guides, and the bottom sits directly into the feeder.
Rabbit cage: making a feeder
Cage for rabbits: the feeder is installed on the frame
A hay feeder is installed next to the main feeder, which is made of steel wire.
Rabbit cage: hay feeder
We sheathe the free space with plywood, install a roof with an overlap of 5 cm in front and 10 cm from each side and back. There should be a hole in the middle in which food will be laid. It is better to install a lid on top so that rodents do not get into it. It remains only to install doors 30 by 50 cm. For their manufacture, a mesh is needed. The cage is ready.
If you don’t like this do-it-yourself rabbit cage making scheme, there is a detailed video instruction. There is a step by step explanation. True, the drawing will have to be done independently.
Rabbits are not only valuable fur, but also ... care. In order for your pets to grow beautiful and large, you need to provide them with a good “apartment”. Do-it-yourself rabbit cages are a laborious but interesting process, which you can master thanks to our recommendations. You do not have to look for specialists and buy ready-made buildings. With the help of the proposed master class, you will make cells of the size that you need.
What tools and materials need to be prepared
Starting building rabbit houses, prepare everything you need for work. This will allow you to not be distracted and complete the work in a shorter time.
Of the tools you will need:
- wood saw
- plane
- a hammer
- pliers
- screwdriver
- corner
In addition, you must have at least minimal skills in working with this inventory.
The choice of material directly depends on the design you choose. But in any case, you will need:
- plywood sheets
- bars
- slate
- galvanized mesh
- nails
- screws
The grid section depends on the age of the rabbits that will live in the "house", but it is better to choose no more than 16 * 48. It is suitable for both adult animals and the construction of "nursery".
Important construction milestones
First of all, you need to make a drawing and determine the dimensions. By standards, a large breed rabbit requires a cage one and a half meters long, 0.7 meters wide and at least 0.5 meters high. If you are breeding medium-sized animals, you can change the cage parameters down.
Any structure consists of a bottom or floor, walls, a roof, and what you plan to do inside the cage. These can be nesting compartments and mother liquor. The walls can be wooden or mesh. The bottom must be made either from a fine mesh or from slats located at a distance from each other. Carefully approach the creation of the roof. For outdoor cages, tiles or slate are preferred, as they will protect from sunlight and rain.
All feeders and drinkers with a tray must be retractable and have a lid for dosed feeding. For outdoor cages, it is imperative to make protection from dogs, cats and rodents. by the most in a simple way the installation of the structure on bars 0.7-0.8 meters long is considered.
Cage with nests
A do-it-yourself rabbit cage is often made with nests. To create such a home, you need to follow these steps:
- We collect the frame from the bars. As a result of this work, you should get a box with a front wall 50-60 cm high, and a back wall - 20 cm less. It is better to place the cage above the ground on bars 70 cm long.
- We sheathe the frame with plywood or boards. If it is planned to make nests, then the floor is also made of solid wood. In the aft compartment we stretch the net, we separate both sections with a partition. In it you need to make a hole with a diameter of 0.2 meters. It is located 15 centimeters from the bottom edge. To prevent rabbits from nibbling at the tree, you can sheathe the edges of the hole with iron.
- We create a roof. For convenience, rabbit breeders make it on awnings so that it is possible to open the box.
- Doors are different. In the nest section, the door should be solid, but in the aft section, a mesh is used to create a door.
- If you want the rabbits to have space to walk, you can organize walking in the form of an additional structure made of a frame and a net. Sometimes the owners make it so that the animal has the opportunity to eat pasture.
Wire cage
All-mesh cages are easy to place: you can install them both in the barn and on the street. They are easy to handle and take up little space. Similar designs are used by those who are engaged in breeding and selling animals.
To create a cage, you need a grid with different cell diameters. For the walls and top, a mesh with cells of 2.5 * 5 centimeters is suitable. For the floor, you need to take a grid with a smaller diameter - 3.5 * 2.5 centimeters. Such dimensions will exclude the accumulation of manure, and favorable conditions will be provided for rabbits.
Keep rabbits at home
Cages for home maintenance are different from the buildings described above. Here are the main guidelines to follow when creating home cages:
- We cut out two side walls with a height and width of 07-0.8 m.
- The back wall should be 1 meter wide and not more than 0.55 meters high.
- We fix the back wall on the side. It is necessary to do this so that there is a gap of 10-15 centimeters from the floor to the edge.
- To make the box strong, you need to fix a meter-long rail between the side panels.
- We fix the grid in the form of a floor and a front wall. If necessary, add a few more rails.
- Be sure to fix the rail at the top level, on which the lid of the box will rest.
- Also make a lid from a mesh on a frame with canopies, due to the fact that the box will stand at home and it will not be necessary to protect it from sunlight.
- Since the floor will be mesh: do not forget to make a pallet that could normally fit under the cage in height.
Keeping cells clean
In order for rabbits not to get sick, but to grow up healthy and large, you need to know how to care for the cages. Any care begins with cleaning. You need to rake out the pallet daily. To prevent droppings from getting into the drinker and feeder, it is necessary to make a lid. If there is a flooring from slats, it will be useful to clean inside the cage - manure is not always removed on its own through the gaps between the slats.
Humidity in cells is of great importance. If this is one cell from the grid, then the humidity does not threaten the rabbits. The situation is more complicated with structures consisting of several tiers.
At high humidity rabbits develop a disease such as coccidiosis, which in most cases leads to the death of the animal.
To prevent infection, the owner must disinfect the cage 3 times a month. For this pet, you need to transplant it into another cage, remove the flooring, food and pour water. With the help of a propane lamp, all surfaces of the “house” are burned. Particular attention is paid to the mesh floor, as well as the bars on which the entire structure is attached - in these places all pathogens accumulate. Regular treatment will prevent infection of rabbits.
In the outer cages, the beams on which the structure is erected suffer, and roofing material. If necessary, the latter will need to be changed so that the rabbits do not get wet from the rains and the sunlight does not fall on them. Therefore, think in advance what material will be appropriate and will be able to serve. long time.
To create a cage with our own hands, we indicated its dimensions for a large breed rabbit. But, as practice shows, all these numbers are conditional. You can make a cage for the male small size so that he can move in it. But don't make it too small. The lack of movement negatively affects the animal, and you will no longer receive any offspring from such a rabbit.
When planning rabbit breeding, remember that it is not always possible to keep young animals in the same bunker with their mother. If their size has not yet reached the lethal size, and the time of separation of the mother and rabbits has come, it is necessary to plant the young in a separate rabbitry. In this case, you can hardly get by with one cell.
If there are several females that are kept separately, it is not necessary to make separate rabbitries for young offspring. Collect one free aviary, designed for a large rabbit, according to our master class. There is enough space for young growth to fatten up to the desired weight.
This could be a cage for keeping adult rabbits.
These bunk cages will help you save space. Based on this scheme, you can make 3 and even 4-tier "houses" for eared pets.
If you have experience building cages for rabbits, share it in the comments. Any advice or recommendations would be helpful to other rabbit breeders.
Reading time ≈ 11 minutes
One of the important components of the successful keeping of rabbits is the provision of suitable housing for animals - cages. Cages are very convenient for breeding animals - it is easiest to feed, care for, and, if necessary, treat animals in them. At the same time, do not rush to buy industrial copies - you can make cells yourself. We will look at how to build DIY rabbit cages, as well as a series of photos of original building ideas.
Two-story cage for rabbits.
Features and requirements
In fact, a cage is a construction in the form of a box with opening front doors. It consists of a frame (sometimes with high legs), closed by walls, a roof and a floor. Inside there are compartments for food and rest, separated by a partition with a manhole. In the aft compartment there is a feeder and.
Size and design features cells depend on the age, breed, sex of the rabbit, the method of keeping. However, in essence, the design will be identical for all groups of animals.
A common drawing of rabbit cages.
When viewed from above, the cell diagram looks like this. The floor of the cage can either be completely mesh or have a mesh insert to remove feces. The floor in the nesting section must be solid, windproof and warm.
Schematic representation of the cell from above.
Another version of the cells is also in demand - which has sleeping compartments on the sides, and in the center - an area for feeding and activity. Such blocks are longer (up to 1.2 m), the standard height is about 35 cm.
There are several types of cellular content:
- in room;
- on the street;
- combined - part of the year indoors, part - on the street.
- the use of high-quality, durable, rough building materials;
- reliability and stability of the structure;
- no more than 3 tiers of cells (device of a sloping roof for effective removal of feces);
- the presence of a canopy.
Important! In winter, it is imperative to take care of the insulation of the cells. Boxes should be reliably protected from frost and wind, especially if animal breeding is planned.
Cell types
As we have already indicated, the design of the house for animals is selected based on many factors. Therefore, below we briefly consider the main distinctive features blocks for animals with different needs:
House for rabbit rabbits.
In addition to standard cages, there are also options with an aviary. If there is free space, such blocks can be installed. The aviary is equipped either under the structure or near the back wall. At least one of the walls of the enclosure should be mesh, but the option is also popular when the back wall is solid, and the rest of the mesh - as in the photo:
Two-story cage with an aviary.
With a large number of individuals, a shed will become a convenient design for keeping. It is a frame with 2-3 tiers of cages under a canopy. This whole structure looks like a mini-barn, but it greatly increases the efficiency and convenience of care, allows you to rationally use the area, while each animal can be provided with a separate block. You can also build a shed yourself.
Shed for rabbits.
Depending on the needs of the animal and your goals appearance designs can be absolutely any. For example, for males, which are usually kept alone, you can build a very simple one-story block:
A simple one-story cell.
You can also make a frame and divide it into three compartments to accommodate several individuals under one roof.
One-story block with three cells.
If you have enough space, and the amount of living creatures is small, you can make a two-story (two-story) apartment for animals:
A two-story cage in the form of a house for one individual.
Another version of a two-tier block with a symmetrical attractive facade:
Please note: In all such designs with an aviary, a tray is located below the upper tier for effective removal of feces.
Two-story cage in the form of a house.
If you wish, you can embody the most original ideas and make a cage for rabbits with your own hands like a house, as in the photo below. To descend into the walking area, the block must be equipped with a ladder.
Blue teremok cage.
And here is another outstanding design - in order to use the space with benefit, beds with greenery are equipped on the roof of the block.
Cage with seedlings on the roof.
Another example of a design - on the sides of the block there are a feeder and a drinker. In the center there is a nest with manholes on both sides. Thanks to the convenient door, you can access the kids and easily perform care procedures.
House with compartments.
In the photo below we see a very original, practical and simple design by wheelbarrow type. The pet house is equipped with a pair of wheels on the back and a pair of handles on the front. If necessary, the cage can be quickly and without outside help move to another location. At the same time, the block is equipped with a nest and there is enough space for walking in it.
Mobile home on wheels.
To make the household part of the yard look aesthetically pleasing and original, houses for living creatures can be built in the oriental Pagoda style.
Pagoda style house.
If you need a spacious aviary for walking young animals, you can make a metal structure, completely mesh with a little shelter.
Spacious aviary for rabbits.
Before you start building a home for animals, read these simple recommendations. They will save you a lot of time in the creation process and allow you to avoid some mistakes:
- With year-round outdoor maintenance for the manufacture of walls, it is better to choose thick boards. If the rabbits are kept partly outside, the sides of the cage can be made of plywood. If the rabbits are on the street only in summer, then the walls can be made from a strong mesh.
- When kept outdoors, the structure must be placed at a height of at least 0.7 m from the ground. This will protect the animals from the cold, precipitation, as well as rats and other animals.
- The floor can be built from wooden slats or mesh. The size of the cells should be about 1-1.5 cm, so that manure passes freely through the holes, but the animals do not injure their paws.
- For the roof, you can use boards or plywood. And on top, for reliability, put any available roofing material. The only thing to keep in mind is that metal sheets can become very hot in the sun and overheat the cage, so you will have to install a canopy from above.
- On the front wall you need to install two doors on hooks, one mesh, the second wooden.
- The wooden elements of the house will most likely be gnawed, therefore it is recommended to sheathe the most vulnerable parts of the cage with thin tin sheets, namely: wooden beams in the frame and doors, manhole, feeder.
- Removable glazing should be provided in case of bad weather. Frame with glass can be attached different ways, for example, on hooks, and shoot in sunny weather.
Idea: facade and exterior walls can be upholstered decorative material or paint to give the house a decorative look.
Cage with supports.
Necessary materials
So, let's consider the manufacture of a three-tier structure for group keeping of rabbits.
Necessary materials:
- timber with a section of 5 * 5 cm;
- aluminum plaster corner;
- screws;
- metal connecting corners;
- slats 24 * 12 mm (for the floor, you can use a metal mesh);
- galvanized sheets.
All mounts in the cage will look like this.
Required tool:
- construction stapler;
- grinder (hacksaw);
- roulette;
- screwdriver;
- electric drill.
For the construction we will use the following drawing. One tier is shown here, such structures will require 3 pieces.
Drawing of a cage (one tier).
Manufacturing process
Below is a detailed step-by-step instruction for making a house.
- First you need to prepare the material for work - saw the timber into the desired segments. So, you need 16 pieces of 1.9 m each (12 pieces need to be sheathed with corners from one side), 24 pieces of 0.35 m each, 18 pieces of 0.8 m each, 12 pieces of 0.45 m each, 6 pieces of 0, 7 m. All prepared segments must be sheathed on one side with a corner using a stapler. These parts will be in direct contact with animals, which means that the tree needs to be protected from chewing.
- For the manufacture of the first tier, we assemble the frame. To do this, we connect the corners of 2 segments of 1.9 m and 0.35 m. It turns out a rectangle.
- Next, on a long segment, we measure 55 cm from the edges on each side, top and bottom. We make notes. Now we insert a bar 0.35 m long into the middle of the rectangle so that the marking line is closer to the center.
- This results in a division:
- We make a hole for the feeder. To do this, find the middle along a long line and make a mark. On the opposite side, on the bar, we mark 0.7 m from the right and left ends. We apply bars 45 cm long with a triangle for fitting, mark the angle and cut it with a hacksaw and attach it.
- By the same principle, we build the second part for the first tier. With the help of bars 80 cm long, we connect both parts. The frame of the first tier is ready.
- For the floor, you can use wooden slats or a metal mesh. If you use rails, you must first drill holes for the screws in them, otherwise the thin rails may crack. Watch the distance between the rails - it should be about 1-1.2 cm so that the animals do not injure the limbs.
- The side parts of the structure, as well as the lintels, are made of plywood. Instead, you can use a grid or boards.
- We use galvanized sheets for the roof. In size, they should be slightly larger than the frame, so that it is possible to make small visors over the compartments.
- With the help of hinges from the front, it is necessary to attach doors made of mesh and plywood. On this one tier is completely finished.
- In conclusion, the wood cage must be treated with fire. First, it will eliminate burrs and make the wood look smoother. Second, roasting will eliminate most microorganisms from upper layers tree. Then the structure must be treated with a disinfectant, for example Brovadez, according to the instructions.
Bar preparation.
We fold the frame.
Insert jumpers.
Caracas in the making.
We make a hole for food.
Finished tier frame.
Fixing rails on the floor.
In principle, you can stop there if you do not need accommodation a large number living creatures. But if there are a lot of rabbits and little space, you can continue and put the three compartments into a single three-story structure.
This will require strong bars 2 m long (4 pieces). You need to fasten the compartments with metal corners. The first compartment should be at least 30 cm above the ground. The distance between the compartments should be kept at least 10 cm to accommodate pallets.
Finished construction.
Thus, we presented a selection of photos from original ideas designs, and also considered the step-by-step manufacture of cages for rabbits with their own hands.
Video: step by step construction cages for rabbits.
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