Facades with the effect of aging. What is patina, its types and application for furniture decoration

16.06.2019

The technology of patination of MDF facades is used by furniture enterprises extremely rarely. Why? Because a well-made patinated MDF facade in PVC film is quite difficult to distinguish from natural wood products, which most often use the effects of aging. Unlike processing MDF, working with solid wood is much more difficult and more time consuming. Therefore, most entrepreneurs bypass such technologies, trying to make their product cheaper.

However, unlike others, the patination technology for MDF facades is not so complicated as to be abandoned. It is only necessary to know the general principles of the patination technique, and skill will come with experience. The money spent will pay off in the sale of truly truly exclusive furniture.

- this is the processing of the facade coating, in order to give it the effect of an aged natural or artificial material and highlight the surface texture with special paints (patina).

The process of patination of the MDF facade in PVC film consists of the following steps:

1. A thin layer, on the surface of a previously thoroughly cleaned MDF facade, is applied a special adhesive barrier primer. For achievement best quality, the primer is applied with a spray gun.

2. The second layer is applied colorless polyurethane primer for patina.

3. The primed surface is being polished.

4. A patinating compound is applied. Patina or compositions for patination are special, having special properties paints and varnishes used to visualize the aging of the facade or create decorative color effects on it.

5. Patina processing . For this process, various methods and materials can be applied to achieve the desired effect. For example, sanding with foam rubber or steel wool, scraping with a spatula, scratching sandpaper etc.

6. Lacquering the patina . Since the patinated surface of the facade is easily vulnerable to mechanical damage, it should be protected and fixed with a layer of polyurethane varnish. Moreover, to achieve the desired effect, you can use either matte or glossy varnishes.

The most popular patination techniques for MDF facades are classical method, contrast patination and crackle technique.

First patination method used for aging MDF facades with complex milling covered with PVC film under a tree. It is good if the texture of the film is covered with depressions imitating wood fibers. The patination of the MDF facade is done with a paint color slightly darker or lighter than the main background. After the patina layer dries, the surface is polished using a regular scouring pad. The achieved effect is fixed, as a rule, using a glossy patination varnish, which will emphasize the depth and highlight the elements of the aging of the facade.

Contrasting patination used to identify specific areas of a milled pattern. Most often, patinating compositions for gold, silver, copper or other colors are used for this. The patina is applied in an even layer on the primed surface of the milled recesses using foam rubber or a brush. Excess is carefully removed. After drying, a second layer is applied, giving the effect of aging and imitating joints on the surface of the facade. To fix gold and silver paints, it is recommended to use a matte varnish, as a glossy sheen will obscure the effect.

Crackle technique is aimed at achieving the effect of cracking the old layer of paint or varnish on the surface of the MDF facade. To do this, two layers of a special craquelure varnish. The second layer is applied after the first one has dried “to touch”, after about half an hour. It should be remembered that the depth and size of cracks will depend on the thickness of the varnish layer. After the varnish has completely dried, the cracks are filled with a contrasting patina or special grouts in gold, silver or any other suitable shade that is different from the main background. Excess is removed with a sponge. Further, the resulting effect is fixed with a layer of varnish.

Lacquer for patina using the craquelure technique is applied both by spraying and with a swab or brush. At the same time, various patterns and cracking effects can be obtained on different parts of the facade surface.

The technology of patination of MDF facades does not stand still and is constantly evolving, using a variety of methods and techniques of aging. To date, the effects of leather, pearls, drops, metal grains, magnetic fields, marbling, velveteen, wormholes, mother-of-pearl and others are used on furniture facades. Some of them can perfectly suit one or another style of furniture produced by the enterprise.

Tired old interior kitchen, or the new set does not look the way you want, but there is no way to change it? easy way correct the current situation, add atmosphere and uniqueness to the room - do-it-yourself patination of wood, or, more simply, "aging" of the surface. Thereafter kitchen furniture it will look like an old one, which will look much better and more expensive than before.

Patina - traces of aging material on various household items. Artificial aging of furniture, in which a patinating composition is used, is called furniture patination. This technique is very common in decoration. In fact, this is an imitation of the natural color change of the furniture surface that occurs over time.

This is now a fairly common practice appearance products are significantly changed, and the costs are minimal. It is also a plus that the procedure is easy to master and independently achieve the desired result.

Today, not only cottages and summer cottages outside the city are made out “antique”, but in city apartments the method has gained its popularity. Solid wood furniture is needed in order to realize this design style.

What are the features?

Originally, "patina" meant a thin oxide film that formed on the copper surface, which created an "aged" look. To give a rare color to furnishings, having the necessary reagents at hand, is now quite simple.

The easiest and safest way is to rub the wax mixture into the edges, corners and embossed grooves on the wood. As a result of the work, we will get the effect of tree pollution associated with age-related changes in its structure.

How to make a patina in an apartment? Sometimes ordinary paints are used, matching in color, to which bronze or aluminum powder is added. They can be easily purchased at the store. This is how patina is made by hand.

It should be understood that self-patination at home is an ordinary coloring, where the usual paints are replaced by specialized compounds. They do not affect the internal structure of the tree. Such a coating can be removed without consequences if the result does not satisfy you.

In practice, most often artificial aging is carried out on furniture that has lost its attractive appearance, and its design does not meet the requirements of the time. From fairly strong, normally functioning wood furniture, an interior in a retro style is easily formed. In addition, applying patina to wood will be a good protection against external influences.

On the video: applying a patina with outdoor decoration wood.

Types of patina

There are the following types of patina:

Shellac varnish. When working with varnish, a sponge or brush is used. For a different number of applied layers, the color varies from golden to transparent red.

Acrylic patina for wood. She is acrylic paint. The least difficult in practice and perfectly fits in an apartment. Acrylic patina is applied with a brush. The advantage is a large number of colors that can be used to tint the product. If necessary, re-painting is done to achieve the desired shade.

A bitumen-based varnish is applied to the furniture, the excess of which is easily removed with white spirit. The varnish is absorbed into the pores, creating the effect of antiquity. This patina is dark in color. Shellac varnish will help preserve the result.

Wax patina. It finds its application, in addition to patination of wood, in order to emphasize the structure of the tree and toned it. It freezes for a long time, which ensures comfortable work with your own hands. It is necessary to apply a wax patina when it is necessary to show the structure of the material. Most often used for small parts in oak and ash.

similar to wax, but more versatile.

Coatings for metal

patina finish metal parts performed mainly for parts exposed to heat (parts of fireplaces, barbecues, and so on). This treatment protects the surface and also maintains or enhances its appearance.

Patina for metal can serve as an excellent decorative coating, the most popular are gold and white (silver) colors.

You can apply a patina to a metal surface in the same way as when working on wood, with a sponge or brush. We patinate with a sponge if you want to only slightly emphasize a certain place. You need to barely touch the metal, with flapping movements. With a brush (about 3 cm wide), also be careful. If excess paint remains on the material, immediately wipe it off with a dry cloth before it hardens.

Do-it-yourself furniture patination

Of course, the availability of the necessary tools and materials is a necessary condition, but in order to make patination of furniture professionally, the accuracy, diligence and diligence of the master is more important. Each action must be performed painstakingly, following the rules. Be prepared for the fact that it will take a significant investment of time to work.

The point is that each action is performed in stages, there is nothing complicated in the patination technique itself. That is, before starting to perform one operation, the previous one must be completed completely.

Before starting to process large-sized furniture, it must be partially disassembled. All metal elements must be removed, leaving only wooden fittings. The sequence of actions for successful patination of furniture with your own hands is as follows:

1. All sorts of imperfections are eliminated from wood by grinding it with sandpaper. Then the workpiece is meticulously freed from dust residues.

2. The material is primed with a special primer designed for antique restoration, and dried for a day.

3. Apply a layer of patinated paint and dry it for a day.

4. The next layer of the selected coloring composition is applied in small strokes in all directions. Until the layer has hardened, the excess is rubbed with a foam rubber swab.

5. Before the second layer is completely seized, it is rubbed with a dry cloth.

6. When the part is dry, the defects are eliminated by local tinting. After it, the tree is also rubbed with a dry cloth.

7. When the wood is completely dry, the final coat of varnish is applied to its surface.

Features of processing large parts

The patination technology is slightly modified when working with large details, such as door leaves, furniture facades, Wall panels. Preparatory stage it is completely repeated without changes, but priming is carried out with a special primer, which is based on polyurethane or acrylic compounds.

When the primer dries, one thin layer of paint is applied. The part that has completely dried out after painting is polished with a metallized sponge called scotch-brite. Then the surface is wiped dry and coated with a colorless composition of polyurethane, acrylic or nitro-lacquer. The lacquer shade is selected based on the natural color of the treated wood.

For birch, walnut and linden sets, light, yellowish varnishes are used. Darker varnishes are used for oak and alder.

Craquelure technique

High decorative effect the tree is provided with additional cracks, the so-called "craquelure". To do this, use a special varnish, main feature which cracking. In order for the created cracks to become noticeable, they are overwritten with a contrasting compound. Craquelure is often referred to as decoupage.

The surface is treated with a primer alone; it is prohibited to use a brush or sandpaper. The first layer is applied varnish for craquelure / decoupage, which is selected according to the color of the wood. If required, a second layer is applied to make the nuance brighter.

A layer of decoupage varnish is applied to the still uncured varnish, which partially cracks during its drying, forming cracks characteristic of the old coating. The finished surface is rubbed. To consolidate the result obtained, the part is covered with a layer of varnish (most often the shellac class).

How to apply patina to furniture facades (2 videos)

Patina with different effects (30 photos)

Patina is natural aging. True lovers of antique furniture are willing to pay a lot of money for it. But today, it is not necessary to give a lot of money to buy antique furniture. It is enough to pay attention to the facades with patina.

Manufacturers make antique patinated facades by artificial method. Sometimes from the side it is even difficult to distinguish such a facade from natural wood. But it is enough to open the doors in the furniture kitchen or bedroom to understand that you have MDF in front of you. This will be noticeable in inside, manufacturers in order to reduce the cost, leave it just white.

Patina can be absolutely any color and shade, but the facade with white patina looks beautiful, especially in the bedroom or living room. Such facades are: matte and glossy.

When matte facades are used, the patina can be gold or silver tinted. This is a complex process and such an effect cannot be achieved on a glossy surface. It should be borne in mind that the price for such work increases significantly.

On a glossy surface, black looks beautiful. Such facades are suitable for a more strict and restrained style.

For the kitchen, facades are often processed using craquelure technology. This is a method that helps to achieve deeper cracks. Next, the material is coated in a few words of varnish. Deep cracks can be seen even in the photo. Such facades are more expensive, but they look spectacular.

Some people think that furniture can be aged with your own hands. Partly it is. But this requires certain skills and equipment. As practice shows, the first time you can only spoil the material. Therefore, it is better to order facades with patina from the manufacturer.

How to choose patinated facades

Patinated facades enable lovers of the classics to buy furniture in vintage style at an affordable price. Now we will tell you the subtleties classical style so that you can choose the right furniture for yourself.

Classical furniture refers to the style: baroque, empire, rococo, etc. But most people prefer neoclassicism. Usually these are less worn facades, and the patina is made in a restrained, elegant and light style. As a rule, neoclassical is cheaper in price.

When choosing a facade in the kitchen, many will like the white patina. Especially if it is made in the Provence style. It looks beautiful when the handles on such furniture are made of ceramics.

You can offer facades with silver gold patina. Such a patina looks harmonious only on matte facades. On gloss, gold and silver shades will shine.

Art Nouveau differs from the classical style in more rounded facades. Often a light contour drawing is applied to the facade, which is suitable for the kitchen.

The classic style is calm colors and tones. You will never see brightly colored furniture in this style. Depending on your preferences, you can choose: brown, beige, walnut, chocolate, cognac, dark blue, dark green and dark gray.

Facades are made from various materials. The best option is MDF. This material is not as expensive as wood, and the quality is much better than chipboard. Therefore, if the budget is limited, but you want to buy reliable furniture, then MDF is the best value for money.

If there is little money, it should be borne in mind that the price of facades, even with the most elementary headset, will be much higher than for a regular classic design. The headset includes: glass inserts, grilles, radius doors, etc.

Before buying, it will be correct to view the photo in the catalog. This will help to understand what the soul desires. Thoughts and questions will appear that you can ask the manager by phone.

The manufacturing technology of patinated MDF facades, only at first glance, is complex and exclusive. In fact, it is not difficult at all. The only thing, technological process patination MDF requires a certain amount of time and proven skills of the master. But experience is easy to acquire in the process of work, you only need general knowledge the very principle and process of manufacturing patinated MDF facades.

You can write a lot about the advantages and disadvantages of patinated MDF, so I won’t do it. Everyone will decide this question for himself, based on his preferences. Let's talk about the production technology of these very patinated facades, i.e. facades with applied artificial aging effect.

In this article I will make an attempt to slightly open and scientifically describe all the details of how patinated mdf.

MDF patination technology.

Basis for the patinated facade.

The most common MDF one-sided MDF board with a thickness of 16, 18 or 19 mm is used as the basis for the patinated MDF facade. The most commonly used thickness is 16 mm. MDF is sold in sheets measuring 2800 x 2070 mm.

On the one hand, it is laminated with a white coating, on the other side and from the ends - open structure MDF.

MDF (English Medium Density Fiberboard) - medium density fibreboard.

The basis is prepared according to the usual technology for the manufacture of conventional film MDF facades. Let me briefly remind you of the technology for manufacturing film MDF facades.

1 . From the plate, on a furniture cutting machine, facade blanks of the desired size are cut.
2 . Items are sent to CNC milling machine , to give the facades the desired pattern. Instead of CNC, you can also use a conventional milling and copying machine with a set of templates of the required profile. But, milling CNC machines allow you to create complex drawings, reliefs in three-dimensional form. Facades with complex patterns are ideal for patination.
3 . After milling, the details of the facades are covered with a thin layer of glue from a spray gun. Then they go to lamination with conventional PVC films. This is done on a special thermal vacuum press.

Finished regular film MDF facades.

At the end of this familiar process, MDF facades are sent for patination.

Patination or patina- giving the effect of aging new surface. It has always been customary to give a similar effect only to natural materials, such as wood or metal. But some effects are achievable on artificial surfaces or coatings, in particular on MDF facades.

Particularly good look patinated MDF with a film under the texture of natural wood with a complex profile of milling the ends and imitation of the panel. Qualitatively and creatively made patinated facades can knock down even an experienced furniture maker, who can easily take them for made of natural materials. It gives out such facades - the reverse side, since the reverse side of the MDF board is laminated with a white film. Covering the reverse side of the facade with decorative films with subsequent patination is not at all economically justified, and it is not at all necessary.

The process of patination of furniture MDF facades.

1. Applying an insulator. Using a spray gun, the surface of the MDF facade is applied layer of adhesive barrier-soil (insulator). It should be a special barrier primer for laminated surfaces. Apply in a very thin layer.

Example: Two-component polyurethane adhesive barrier primer for laminated paper TR 5008 from Sayerlack. It is used to ensure adhesion to melamine paper and other hard-to-paint surfaces.

2. The second layer of polyurethane primer. It is recommended to use a colorless polyurethane primer for this layer.

Example: colorless primer for MDF TU100 by Sayerlack. Such a primer dries quickly and can be sanded in half an hour.

3. Fine grinding second layer of soil.

4. Application of patina. For this stage of creating a patinated facade, special coatings are used, which are called patina. Or LKM (varnishes and varnishes) for special effects.

Examples: Sayerlack coatings. IF 427 - metallic effect coating; IF 490 - Cracolet; IF 425 - effect of gilding; IF 415/13 - mother-of-pearl effect; IF 501 - leather effect coating: XT 418 - textural effect and many others.

5. Patina processing. Patina processing takes place different ways, which depend on what kind of effect you want to achieve. It can be a washcloth made of metal shavings or fishing line, scrapers, a piece of foam rubber.

We will dwell on these technological stages (4 and 5) a little lower.

6. Lacquering. The created effect after all must be fixed and protected from external influences. To do this, use a glossy or matte polyurethane varnish.

Example: varnishes from Sayerlack. TZ 62 - matt lacquer; TL 345 - high gloss varnish; TZ 29 - medium economy class lacquer. The varnish is applied with a spray gun in one or two layers. Most often these are just two thin layers without intermediate grinding.

Of course, the Sayerlack paintwork materials presented as an example are not at all fundamental. For patination mdf you can use paintwork materials and other manufacturers with similar parameters. At the same time, the use of polyurethane primers and varnishes is also not very necessary. Everyone can choose for their purposes, their own complex of coatings, which, for objective reasons, is more convenient or accessible to him. It is also quite possible to use paintwork materials based on acrylic.

List of some companies producing varnishes and patinating compositions:

RENNER, Italy. LKM.
Sayerlack, Italy. LKM.
BORMA WACHS, Italy. Materials for gilding and restoration.
VOTTELER, Germany. LKM, VISh-stains on the basis of solvent.
Maimeri, Italy. Decoupage varnishes, patenting compositions, craquelure varnishes.
HESSE, Germany. Coatings, patinas. (the most inexpensive materials and the largest selection).
I.C.A. (Industria Chimica Adriatica) Italy. LKM, patinating compositions. (fastest drying at room temperature).
white wall, Russia. LKM series "COLORICCI". domestic manufacturer.
Creall, The Netherlands. Craquelure varnishes, grouts. Special acrylic materials for effects.

Patina application. patination effects.

The fourth and fifth stages of the process of patinating MDF facades, the most creative of all. A lot has been written about patination on the Internet, full of master classes, videos, etc. There are a million + 1 patination effects. Firms that produce a patinated facade, as a rule, select one or two simple techniques and use them in their production.

Describing all methods of applying patina is not the concern of this article. Here I will just try to describe a couple of the most used methods. how to patinate mdf.

Method 1. Simplest.

On the prepared facade, lined with a textured film under wood, a layer of patina is applied, which, after drying, is polished with an ordinary washcloth (kitchen mesh) made of metal shavings or fishing line. You can use sandpaper, but its use requires high skill. The more intense the grinding, the more pronounced the effect of aging. The color of the patina can be selected empirically. For a simple effect of old varnish or wood, it is better to use a patina that is quite a bit darker or lighter in tone than the background.

For this method, MDF facades with complex milling and lined with wood-like PVC films with texture imitating pores natural wood(i.e. micro-depressions on the film texture). With this method of patination, it is better to use glossy varnishes that emphasize and highlight the effect, give it depth.

Method 2. Contrasting patina.

Used in conjunction with the first method of patination. The goal is to highlight areas of the milled pattern. To achieve this, gilding, silvering, darkening imitation of joints, etc. are usually used. To do this, use patinating compositions with the effect of gold, silver, copper, etc. The compositions are applied to the primed surface with a brush or sponge, rubbed into the milling elements. Surplus is removed. A thin main layer of patina is applied on top, which is also processed according to (method 1). The effect is fixed with a matte varnish. In general, in the case of gilding or silvering, it is better to use matte varnishes, since glossy ones in this case do not look quite appropriate.

Method 3. Crackle effect or technology for creating craquelure on a varnish surface.

Craquelure(fr. craquelure) - cracks in the paint layer or varnish, which appear during the aging of paintwork materials over time. Creation of the "crackle" effect - accelerated creation of craquelure on the surface of paintwork materials with special varnishes. This method is used in conjunction with the first or with all of both, the only feature is that the layer of craquelure varnish is applied first and only then, after drying, the rest of the patina is applied. There are several techniques for patination with a crackle effect. I will describe only the one that is used most often.

Crackle technique with patinated grout. Apply the first layer of craquelure varnish, After about half an hour, when the layer dries "to the touch", apply a second layer. The depth and effect of cracks depend on the thickness of the layers. To speed up the drying of the second layer and for faster cracking, drying can be done with a hair dryer. After the varnish dries and cracks form, we rub a contrasting grout into them (gold or aluminum powder, a patina of much darker or lighter tones than the background), removing the excess. Craquelure varnish not strong, and the cracks are quite fragile, so the whole effect must be fixed with a surface layer of varnish. You can first cover the facade with applied craquelures with a general layer of patina (as in method No. 1), or you can immediately apply finishing layer varnish. But it is preferable to apply the finish after the general patination on top of the craquelure.

Craquelure varnishes applied by spray, brush or swab. By spraying varnish, the entire surface is covered with craquelure, while chiseled application with a brush or swabs allows you to create more complex effects by highlighting specific areas of the facade. Several layers of varnish can be applied in sections, for example, to cover the entire facade with a thin layer, and apply additional layers only in the corners. This will create a more realistic effect of uneven cracks.

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Patination is the process of artificial aging of the external surfaces of various interior items and materials. Such processing gives the products more decorative, antique. In addition, the compositions used in the application of patina can increase the protective properties of objects made of wood, gypsum, copper, bronze, and iron. This property is especially valuable for old interior items, which, it would seem, have already served their purpose. Recently, there has been a tendency to give a textured natural and aged look to new furniture.

The process of aging wooden surfaces is quite painstaking, it requires effort and time. At the same time, anyone can master it on their own, and the availability of a range of special tools for sale allows you to realize your creative potential just at home. Try and you in a few days to make an attractive and presentable piece of furniture that was already going to be taken to a landfill.

Patination can look like staining with further processing, after which the natural pattern of the tree is highlighted with color. Also, the products are given a shabby aged look. Accordingly, the last type of decor looks like paint wear on the most convex details. As a shading dye, paint of any color can be used, including interspersed with gold, silver and bronze. Pastel blue, green, pink, brown tones are most suitable for decorating rustic-style furniture, the so-called shabby chic.

You have old wardrobe an interesting shape or a new, but too simple appearance - add history, respectability to it. If you still do not know how to make patina on furniture with your own hands, follow our instructions.

Tools and materials

You will need:

Wooden cabinet that you will decorate.
The primer will help increase the adhesive properties of the wooden surface to be decorated.
Paint is the main decorative material. Choose a color that will blend better with the interior or set it off.
Patina is the second layer of paint. As a result of processing, it will remain a little. Therefore, do not be afraid to use bronze or gold shades.
The varnish will become the final protective coating. If you want your cabinetry to really look antique, use a matte lacquer rather than a glossy one.

Because decorative works will be held at home, choose the safest paints and varnishes. Consider water-based acrylic formulations of specialty products. Among their advantages: environmental safety, good durability, ease of use, a large selection of shades.

Also, prepare:

Sandpaper for sanding wood surfaces.
Several brushes for applying patina, paint, varnish.
Dry cloth to wipe upper layer paint to achieve the desired effect.

Description of the work process

First of all, carefully grind the surface of the product with fine sandpaper. Pay the most attention to the doors, as they are the "face" of the cabinet. If the old varnish coating remains on the wood, it should be completely removed. When doing this, try not to damage the pattern of the tree.
Then we carefully remove the dust formed after grinding from the surface of the cabinet.
Apply the primer to the surface with a roller or brush. This tool will improve the quality of wood, forms a thin layer of polymer, which will create favorable conditions for the adhesion of the surface and paints and varnishes.

In order for the properties of the stain (primer) to manifest themselves in full force during patination, the composition must be well absorbed and completely dry. Drying should take at least 8-10 hours (night). If you are patinating for the first time, before you start decorating the cabinet, practice on a separate unnecessary piece of wood. Eliminate your mistakes in subsequent work.

Gently coat the wood with the paint of your choice (in our case, another layer of stain). Leave on for 12-24 hours to dry completely.
With a patina of your chosen color, paint even (not protruding) sections of the cabinet. Pay attention to recesses (for example, a panel). If you chose metallic paints(gold or bronze), do not overdo it with its application. Furniture should be elegantly aged, and not shine like a polished samovar.

Do not use patina on areas that are frequently touched by a person during use. The decor in such places will be erased very soon.

When the patina begins to dry out, take a dry rag and carefully wipe the top layer with it. This is a painstaking work that requires accuracy and patience.
After the final mashing, to preserve the decorative accents, cover the cabinet with a layer of acrylic varnish. While working, make light movements with a soft brush. Do not apply twice in the same place: the patina may smudge. Another good option is to use spray varnish.

Complement the closet you made with a few more items in a similar style, for example, a mirror, a bedside table. Your room will immediately change - the interior will become softer, calmer.

Vintage chest of drawers

Such an old chest of drawers will refresh the room, bring into it a slight reminder of what once was. It is easy to make it from a piece of furniture just purchased in a store or a really old one, adding antique handles, a little imagination and creativity. And after - no one will distinguish this "antiquity" from the real legacy of your great-grandmother.

You don't have to be a master to make this type of patination. The technology is very simple. Read the job description and you'll understand.

Prepare everything you need for aging chest of drawers

wooden chest of drawers,
dye,
stain,
paraffin candle,
matte acrylic lacquer
brushes,
sandpaper,
old rag.

Step-by-step instruction

Remove the handles from the doors and drawers of the chest of drawers.
Sand the outer wooden surfaces, remove any remaining lacquer.
Remove dust from chest of drawers.
Cover decorating surfaces protective agent(primer). Leave for 8-10 hours to dry.
With a paraffin candle, rub the most protruding parts of the chest of drawers.
Apply a thick layer of acrylic paint in the color you want on the chest of drawers with rough strokes. To paint the front of the drawers, take them out. Leave the product for 12-24 hours for the paint to dry completely.
With the help of the skin, rub the paint with very light movements in places where paraffin has been applied. After some areas are erased, walk over the surface with a dry rag.
After removing the excess paint layer, remove dust and dirt from the surface of the chest of drawers.
Cover the product with a thin layer of matte acrylic varnish. Leave to dry for 4-6 hours.

Bituminous varnish for aging interior items

Bituminous varnish is widely used for decorative aging of mainly relief surfaces. This technique looks especially successful when working with carved elements that are on furniture, picture frames, mirrors, and other interior items. Apply bituminous varnish over a layer of paint. It is able to reveal and emphasize depressions, cracks, darken the lowest places, give a beautiful brown tint to elevations.

What to prepare

Frame for a picture or a mirror. Choose products with a relief surface. Doesn't have to be wood.
Primer.
Acrylic paint in gold or silver.
Bituminous varnish.
Alcohol-based shellac varnish.
Synthetic brush for applying varnish.
Brushes for paint, primer.
Sponge or natural old rags.
A little white spirit.

Decoration order

First of all, coat the wood frame with a primer. This is a protective substance that will make the wood whiter and more resistant to aggressive influences and improve the adhesion of the product to decorative materials. This means that the quality of work will improve. It will take 8 to 10 hours to dry.

The application of bituminous varnish on a smooth, untreated surface allows you to reveal the wood pattern, age the material, making it darker. Glitter does not appear.

Paint the embossed frame with gold or silver acrylic paint. Leave the product to dry for 4-6 hours.

If you have chosen a plaster product for decoration, then this step is mandatory. Without prior application of paint or conventional acrylic lacquer, bituminous lacquer will be absorbed by porous gypsum.

Using a synthetic brush, apply bituminous varnish to the entire frame in quick motions. You can cover small areas with a decorative substance and immediately rub it with a piece of rag, removing excess varnish, evenly distributing it over the surface.

If the varnish had time to dry in uneven spots, then within 2-4 hours after application, moisten a piece of cloth in white spirit and rub it in the right place.

After drying, the bituminous varnish remains sticky for some time. Therefore, it must be covered with a special fixative. Pin decoration Bituminous varnish can be applied by applying an alcohol-based shellac varnish on top of it.

Various patination technologies allow you to get a wide variety of decorative effects - from solemnly aristocratic classics to charming Provence filled with comfort and charm. Try other ways on your own, choose one that will make your interior more beautiful and better.

Natural origin

Natural patination occurs under the influence of oxygen on the oxidized surface. Whether it's wood or metal, plaque adds age and charm to an item. Basically, the effect is manifested on carved and forged textures - in these places there are many refractions of the surface, where the main protective layer is abraded.

The noble plaque does not include heavily corroded areas that adversely affect the integrity and aesthetic appearance of the surface.

Artificial aging

By aging wood and any other surface, designers mean creating the effect of an oxidized material that gives furniture and utensils a noble sound. But waiting for the process to happen naturally is incredibly long.

Modern technologies helped with the solution - artificial patina. This is a coating with special coloring compositions using a special technology.

Materials for self-patination

Special paint, which often includes particles of real precious metals - silver, bronze, gold. Such a coating is more wear-resistant than natural patina, it protects the wood from destruction due to its dense texture with minimal porosity.
Any paint on a traditional basis will help to create an imitation of a noble surface. The color in this case can be anything - from natural golden to unusual bright blue, purple, red, etc.

Patina on wood

Not every wood product can be covered with a natural coating without destroying the main structure - this is only characteristic of dense, moisture-resistant species, such as oak or ash. Of course, the effect is arbitrarily formed only on a whole array, on modern facades from MDF, its formation is impossible.

Artificial patina is applied on any surfaces:

From an array;
On lamellas;
By MDF.

To obtain the effect of antiquity, a chemical effect on the surface is used in combination with a mechanical one.

Varieties of patina compositions

For painting "old times" use compositions based on different substances:

stain;
Bitumen;
Acrylic;
Wax;
Shellac;
Butter.

These substances create patination of different shades with individual effects:

fragmentary refinement;
Full coverage;
Craquelure effect.

Patina may vary in consistency:

Thick patina is presented in the form of a paste. It is designed for gilding wood in shades from yellow to red, close to the color of natural gold.
Liquid patina for wood on a water or synthetic basis saturates the wood pattern to noble shades, adds a slight shine effect.
Facet varnish will help create an in-depth effect of aging with cracking of the coating (craquelure).

Detailed description of compositions

Kitchen furniture with a patina or a cabinet with a gilded frame - you can process any wooden product, which has an invoice. It is worth noting that the coating of metal and wood is carried out with compositions on a different basis - they have special characteristics of stability and adhesion to the base.

wood stain

In almost every home there is a piece of wood with patination. Coating boards with stain is one of the ways to improve products with the option of protection against fungi, mold, moisture penetration and decay.

To enhance the effect, the working surface is brushed: it is possible to preserve the longitudinal hard fibers, soft ones are removed with a special hard brush. Thus, a natural array is processed at home. True, the color of the patina in this case is the same - the stain is made in a dark shade, you will not have to expect gilding.

Bitumen

It would seem that the material far from art is bitumen. But the patina on wood from it is the most malleable and easy to apply, it can be used to make rich gilding or a thin coating. Bituminous varnish blackens the recesses in the thread, highlighting the edges protruding to the surface. It is produced on the basis of a bituminous polymer and turpentine or white spirit, therefore, after drying, the treated surface must be fixed with shellac varnish.

Acrylic

Universal water-based material for patination of surfaces made of metal, wood, plaster. Differs in durability, good adhesion to the bases, protects structure of wood from wetting and settlement of microflora.

The wood patination technology does not contain tricks: you can paint the entire surface or apply color selectively to the protruding parts of the thread. Compositions of different shades are applied in several layers - a complex color ornament is obtained.

Acrylic patina antiquity can be any color:

Gold;
Silver;
Blue;
Other possible shades.

Combinations of light and dark colors can give a rich effect of aging a noble tree.

Wax

The wax composition leaves a mother-of-pearl overflow on the surface, which favorably emphasizes the relief of the carving. The coating dries slowly and is easy to apply without special skills and tools.

Wax paint is non-toxic and safe, making it a preferred choice in the kitchen. The durability and ability of the wax to penetrate into the porous surface of the wood provides good resistance to moisture and cleaning.

Shellac

Shellac paint-lacquer reddish-brown or yellowish coating. It helps to preserve the main color and visible structure of the base, if you use shellac as an independent tool. In most cases, it is used as a cover layer for other compositions, in decoupage technique and in painting.

Butter

The oil solution favorably beats the structure of the tree by saturating the color. The material is similar to the shellac solution, but it cannot be used in the decoupage technique - the oil does not fix, but dissolves the paper. Used as a coating and protection for less resistant paints.

Patina technology

Working with patina does not cause difficulties; on the contrary, this process is fascinating and creative. But for each type of surface there is its own algorithm for preparing the base and applying the patina, which should be followed.

Surface preparation

If you decide to patinate finished products with your own hands, the first thing you need to pay attention to is the quality of the surface. If the product is created from a raw array, then there are no problems. Harder with smooth surfaces varnish, acrylic film, PVC - paint is not fixed on such. To correct the situation, we will do the following actions:

We brush the surface with coarse-grained sandpaper or a metal brush. Thus, we will get rid of the soft fibers of the tree, hidden under a film that is unstable to such influences. The exposed structure is now suitable for further processing.
Remove dust with a soft brush, degrease the surface.

MDF boards and chipboard is better primer - such preparation will help to make an artificial wooden relief and ensure optimal adhesion of the base and the coloring composition.

Classic patination

It is not difficult to apply coloring compounds from bitumen, wax or acrylic, but you need to do it correctly:

With a brush, apply the coloring matter in an amount determined by the intensity of the desired result. The paint can only appear on the surface or penetrate into all the recesses of the relief.
If desired, remove excess solution with a rag.
If it is necessary to obtain a deep patination effect, after the first layer has dried, apply a second one and shade it in the same way.
After the final layer of paint has dried, rub the treatment area fine sandpaper to give the product an aged look.
We fix the finished surface with shellac varnish.

Wood stain for furniture

The price of this method of ennobling interior items is low, so everyone can afford to use this technique.

The use of stain allows you to darken the tree without adding the effect of gilding, ignoble woods and panels to give the appearance of a stately oak array.

On the brushed surface, apply a water stain with a brush.
We remove the top layer of paint with a sponge to highlight the relief.
After the layer has dried, a second one can be applied, but the composition must have a different base (white spirit).
Rubbing the wax helps to deepen the texture of the object, rub it into the dried stain.
The result is fixed with shellac.

We offer you to get acquainted with the technique on the example of the processing of stair elements:

Craquelure

Expensive, but the effect is the most impressive. To create it, we use 2 components:

Facet varnish;
Patina.

The first step is intensive coloring of the surface with facet varnish. The number of layers determines the depth of cracks in the coating. After drying, the thick layer cracks and you can start patination, which has already been discussed.

Artificial scuffs

The method below is universal for solid wood and MDF.

We take more patina dark shade than the main surface and apply it with the first layer.
We rub the protruding fragments with paraffin: carving, forging, framing of the product.
Now apply a lighter patina.
We remove the paraffin with a spatula, grind the wood.

This type of coating deepens the structure and in the most advantageous way emphasizes the pattern of wood and carvings.

Tired of the old kitchen interior, or the new set does not look the way you want, but there is no way to change it? An easy way to correct the current situation, add atmosphere and uniqueness to the room is to patinate the tree with your own hands, or, in other words, “aging” the surface. After that, the kitchen furniture will take on the look of an old one, which will look much better and more expensive than before.

What is patination?

Now this is a fairly popular practice, because the appearance of products changes significantly, and the costs are minimal. It is also a plus that the procedure is easy to master and independently achieve the desired result.

What are the features?

It should be understood that self-patination at home is an ordinary coloring, where the usual paints are replaced by specialized compounds. They do not affect the internal structure of the tree. Such a coating can be removed without consequences if the result does not satisfy you.

In the video: applying patina for exterior wood finishing.

Types of patina

There are the following types of patina:

Shellac varnish. When working with varnish, a sponge or brush is used. For a different number of applied layers, the color varies from golden to transparent red.

Acrylic patina for wood. It's acrylic paint. The least difficult in practice and perfectly fits in an apartment. Acrylic patina is applied with a brush. The advantage is a large number of colors that can be used to tint the product. If necessary, re-painting is done to achieve the desired shade.

Bituminous patina. A bitumen-based varnish is applied to the furniture, the excess of which is easily removed with white spirit. The varnish is absorbed into the pores, creating the effect of antiquity. This patina is dark in color. Shellac varnish will help preserve the result.

Wax patina. It finds its application, in addition to patination of wood, in order to emphasize the structure of the tree and toned it. It freezes for a long time, which ensures comfortable work with your own hands. It is necessary to apply a wax patina when it is necessary to show the structure of the material. Most often used for small parts in oak and ash.

Oil patina is similar to wax patina, but more versatile.

Coatings for metal

Patina coating of metal parts is carried out mainly for parts exposed to heat (parts of fireplaces, barbecues, and so on). This treatment protects the surface and also maintains or enhances its appearance.

Patina for metal can serve as an excellent decorative coating, the most popular are gold and white (silver) colors.

Do-it-yourself furniture patination

1. All sorts of imperfections are eliminated from wood by grinding it with sandpaper. Then the workpiece is meticulously freed from dust residues.

2. The material is primed with a special primer designed for antique restoration, and dried for a day.

3. Apply a layer of patinated paint and dry it for a day.

4. The next layer of the selected coloring composition is applied in small strokes in all directions. Until the layer has hardened, the excess is rubbed with a foam rubber swab.

5. Before the second layer is completely seized, it is rubbed with a dry cloth.

6. When the part is dry, the defects are eliminated by local tinting. After it, the tree is also rubbed with a dry cloth.

7. When the wood is completely dry, the final coat of varnish is applied to its surface.

Features of processing large parts

The patination technology changes slightly when working with large parts, such as door leaves, furniture facades, wall panels. The preparatory stage is completely repeated without changes, but priming is carried out with a special primer, which is based on polyurethane or acrylic compounds.

For birch, walnut and linden sets, light, yellowish varnishes are used. Darker varnishes are used for oak and alder.

Craquelure technique

Additional cracks, the so-called "craquelure", provide a high decorative effect to the tree. To do this, use a special varnish, the main feature of which is cracking. In order for the created cracks to become noticeable, they are overwritten with a contrasting compound. Craquelure is often referred to as decoupage.

Facades with the effect of aging. What is patina, its types and application for furniture decoration

What are the features?

Types of patina

Coatings for metal

Do-it-yourself furniture patination

Features of processing large parts

Craquelure technique

How to apply patina to furniture facades (2 videos)

Patina with different effects (30 photos)

How to choose patinated facades

MDF patination technology.

Patina application. patination effects.

Tools and materials

Description of the work process

Vintage chest of drawers

Prepare everything you need for aging chest of drawers

Step-by-step instruction

Bituminous varnish for aging interior items

What to prepare

Decoration order

Read more at your request:

MDF patination technology.

Patina application. patination effects.

Natural origin

Artificial aging

Materials for self-patination

Patina on wood

Varieties of patina compositions

Detailed description of compositions

wood stain

Bitumen

Acrylic

Wax

Shellac

Butter

Patina technology

Surface preparation

Classic patination

Wood stain for furniture

Craquelure

Artificial scuffs

What is patination?

What are the features?

Types of patina

Coatings for metal

Do-it-yourself furniture patination

Features of processing large parts

Craquelure technique

How to apply patina to furniture facades (2 videos)