If you decide to do repair in the apartment on your own, then you will probably glue the wallpaper and then this article will come in handy for you. In it, we will tell you how to glue wallpaper with your own hands.
This detailed instruction on the site is dedicated to sticking wallpaper with your own hands with photo and video materials. You will learn how to properly complete all the steps from preparing the walls to finishing the work.
Once you learn how to properly glue the wallpaper, you will be able to use this skill in the future, because for many years these methods have remained unchanged and differ only depending on the type of wallpaper.
Preparatory work
Do-it-yourself wallpapering should begin with preparatory work. This includes the choice of wallpaper, glue and wall preparation.
The choice must begin with the choice of the type of wallpaper, their colors and size.
The main types that are most often found in the store are:
- paper;
- non-woven;
- vinyl.
It is better to choose non-woven wallpaper 1 m wide, see the colors for yourself, but the picture is better than one that does not need to be customized. This will save you time and money.
You can find out if the wallpaper needs to be adjusted or not by the label. If the word “Rapport=0” is present on it, then such wallpaper does not need to be adjusted, and with “Rapport=30” you will have to leave a margin of 30 cm.
It is also worth considering when choosing wallpaper that a large pattern does not reduce the room, while a small one, on the contrary, increases it.
Wallpaper pasted to the ceiling with a vertical pattern increases the height of the room, and the border under the ceiling reduces it.
The blue tint makes the room bigger, and the brown tint makes it smaller.
Also make sure that all rolls have the same batch number, as different batches may have different shades.
Types of wallpaper
Paper
Usually it is two layers of paper.
- The first is the paper base.
- The second decorative layer, on which a pattern is applied, and can also be embossed.
They have a splitting property, that is, when removed from the wall, the first layer remains on the wall and can serve as a basis for subsequent wallpapering, and the top layer is removed.
Structural
In such wallpapers, a special colored paste is applied to the base in the form of some patterns. They are highly resistant to washing and other mechanical influences, do not fade in the sun.
When removed, the first base layer remains on the wall and can also serve as the basis for new wallpapers.
Vinyl
They consist of two layers, the first is the base material, and the second is a vinyl seal. They are very strongly connected to each other.
May be embossed. Vinyl wallpapers are used where durability is required.
non-woven
In these wallpapers, instead of a paper base, a special interlining is used. Non-woven wallpaper are both ready-made and for subsequent painting.
When sticking non-woven wallpaper, the glue is not applied to the wallpaper, but directly to the wall. They are not deformed and can be removed completely when removed.
Adhesive selection
Glue very important element when wallpapering. The main criteria for glue are:
- chemical neutrality;
- transparency after drying;
- should be environmentally and hygienically clean.
Glue is chosen depending on the type of wallpaper used.
For paper, ordinary wallpaper glue is suitable, which must be diluted with water according to the instructions on the package.
For synthetic wallpapers on paper basis use the same glue as for non-woven fabrics containing synthetic resin.
For wallpaper for painting, a particularly strong adhesive is required. These are usually dispersed adhesives in ready-made form.
For velor, wallpaper made of natural material and metal, special adhesives are used.
Preparing walls for wallpapering
Preparation of the base begins with the removal of all old decorative coatings.
If the wall was covered with wallpaper, then we soak them with water using a sponge and let them soak, then they are easily peeled off with a metal spatula.
The whitewashed walls are soaked with water and the whitewash is removed with a metal spatula.
Painted walls treat sandpaper with a coarse grain and remove all loose paint.
In the presence of cracks and other defects on the wall, they must be puttied to an even state.
Walls must be primed and dry before wallpapering. This will increase the strength of the fastening and reduce the consumption of glue.
For priming, you can use a ready-made special primer or the same glue only diluted with water by about 20-30%.
If rust spots have appeared through the primer on the wall, then they are painted over with white enamel paint.
Glue must be selected in accordance with the selected wallpaper. All characteristics are indicated on the packaging itself.
The only thing I would like to advise is not to save on glue, since the whole result of the work you have done depends on it.
The glue preparation process is also indicated on the packaging and must be strictly observed.
How to glue wallpaper with your own hands
For wallpapering, we need the following tool:
- roulette;
- stationery knife;
- plumb;
- scissors;
- glue brush;
- wallpaper brush;
- joint roller;
- bucket;
- clean soft cloth.
If you have paper or vinyl wallpaper, then the glue is applied to the canvas, and with non-woven wallpaper, directly to the wall. Also remember that the glue is selected depending on the type of wallpaper.
When the walls and glue are ready, you can proceed directly to wallpapering the wall. In no case should there be drafts in the room, otherwise they can simply fall off.
It is advisable to turn off the electricity in this room. At the very least, this must be done when working in the area of sockets and switches.
Previously, all wallpaper was glued with an overlap, and they had to be glued starting from the window. Modern wallpapers are glued end-to-end, and therefore where to start gluing now does not matter.
Cutting wallpaper, as mentioned above, with a drawing that does not require adjustment, can be done in size. Otherwise, you will have to adjust the pattern and the consumption will be higher.
Allowances should be left at the top and bottom of 10 mm, after the sticker they will be cut off.
We will start gluing from the window. It's no secret that walls and corners in our homes are far from ideal. Therefore, before sticking the first strip of wallpaper on each wall, it is necessary to draw a strictly vertical line along the plumb line.
The distance from the corner should be equal to the width of the wallpaper minus one centimeter. This is necessary so that there is an overlap on the adjacent wall of 1 cm.
When sticking non-woven wallpaper, glue is applied only to the wall.
We coat the wall itself to the width of the glued strip.
We glue the canvas strictly along the drawn vertical line. There should also be an overlap on the ceiling and baseboard, for further trimming and smoothing out irregularities.
The next step is to smooth the strip with a dry, clean cloth or rubber roller. Roll the seams with a rubber roller.
If folds form, then it is necessary to tear off the strip and glue it again.
It is impossible to stretch over the edges, since in the future there will be gaps at the junction of the wallpaper.
Trim off the excess top and bottom. If necessary, coat the edges again and smooth.
We wipe the glue that has left with a wet, clean cloth or sponge.
We glue the following strips in a similar way:
- coat the wallpaper;
- we coat the wall;
- apply end-to-end to an already glued strip;
- smooth with a rubber roller;
- cut off the excess;
- remove excess glue.
When pasting arches, first glue the strips next to the arch and above it. We leave a margin of 2-3 cm, which we repeatedly incise and wrap in an arch. Then we glue a precisely measured strip of wallpaper into the opening of the arch. Also, the corner can be closed with a special corner profile, matched to the color of the wallpaper.
Little tricks when sticking wallpaper
Start pasting the room from the corner closest to the window and finish above the door.
Stick the strips strictly vertically, use a plumb line or a laser level.
When sticking in the area of sockets and switches, they must be removed. Pre-de-energized! Then we make a cut in the places of sockets and switches in the shape of a cross. After the wallpaper has dried, carefully cut out the excess and screw the covers of sockets and switches into place.
Humidity
If the wall on which the wallpaper will be pasted is concrete or plastered, then we carry out the following experiment.
We take an ordinary plastic film, glue it to the wall with adhesive tape and leave everything overnight.
The next day, we look - if drops of condensate appear on the film, then such a surface must be dried. Otherwise, it will be impossible to glue the wallpaper due to too much humidity.
Surface strength
Take any sharp object and try to scratch the wall on which the wallpaper will be glued. The place where the scratch was made should not crumble and crack.
Also, when running along the wall with a fingernail, no traces should remain on the surface.
Walls that were previously painted can be checked for strength by sticking adhesive tape and then tearing it off. There should not be any debris left on the tape.
If there are traces on the tape old paint, then the wall must be cleaned of paint that does not adhere well to it.
If the surface was previously whitewashed, then it is washed with water.
Before wallpapering, it is desirable to treat the surface with a special primer. It will further strengthen the walls.
After finishing wallpapering, they need to be allowed to dry properly. The room temperature should be around 18-20°C. Drafts and strong heating of the room should not be allowed, as this will lead to the fact that the seams will open and the wallpaper may fall off the wall.
Wallpapering mistakes
Although wallpapering is not too difficult and does not require high skill compared to some other repairs, it is still necessary to be aware of possible mistakes and not allow them.
skew
This is when the edges of adjacent strips do not match (there is no joint, or vice versa, an overlap is obtained).
If you try to pull the edges, you can tear the canvas. It will be correct to tear off the entire strip and stick it in a new way.
To prevent distortion, glue the wallpaper strictly vertically along the drawn lines using a plumb line.
Pattern Mismatch
The reason for the discrepancy is the wrong cutting of the canvases.
Try to choose wallpapers that do not need to be customized to the pattern, as this makes the process of gluing easier, thus saving time and reducing the number of trims.
Do not cut the whole roll at once, cook 2 - 3 strips.
Wallpaper peeling
Wallpaper may come off if:
- the surface has not been prepared;
- the glue preparation technology is violated or its expiration date has expired;
- the conditions necessary for the proper drying of the wallpaper are violated.
If you glued the wallpaper following these instructions, then these defects will not be.
bubbles
Blisters appear when air gets under the wallpaper.
After sticking the strip on the wall, it is necessary to immediately squeeze out the air from under it with a rubber roller or a simple rag, moving from the center to the edges.
Also, when using vinyl glue, bubbles may appear when sticking thin paper wallpapers.
Small bubbles can be removed with a syringe by injecting glue into the bubble and smoothing it out.
Most defects occur due to violation of the rules when gluing wallpaper. The main mistakes are a violation of the instructions when preparing wallpaper paste, drafts or too low a temperature in the room.
Video instruction on how to glue wallpaper:
Good luck with your repair!
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Pasting the walls with wallpaper during the repair process is the most popular type of decoration. This is facilitated by the availability of materials and not too sophisticated technology. In order for the work done to really please the eye, preliminary preparation of the walls for wallpaper is necessary. This is the most difficult and time-consuming stage in the process of changing the interior of the premises of the apartment, whether it be a hall, a corridor, a toilet, etc.
The preparation of walls in a new building and a residential apartment are somewhat different from each other. In a residential apartment, work begins with the dismantling of the old type of finish: paint, whitewash, old wallpaper. After that, the walls are inspected. If necessary, old plaster removed and the walls repaired.
The new building is being completed installation work installation of door and window units, electrical wiring, floor screeding, ceiling whitewashing. After this work and new apartment, and in the old one, match:
- the surface of the walls is being prepared for plastering: notches are stuffed, primed, beacons are mounted;
- walls are plastered with gypsum (cement-sand) mortar or dry plaster ( OSB plate, drywall, plywood);
Attention: rooms with high humidity- bathroom, kitchen and bathroom - it is forbidden to plaster with a solution containing gypsum.
- the plaster layer is puttied (if the finishing grout is made on high level, and the wallpaper is planned with a relief pattern, the operation can be skipped);
Important: a thin layer of putty is necessarily applied to the gypsum plasterboard, which will subsequently allow you to remove the pasted wallpaper without destroying the drywall sheet.
- a primer is applied to ensure adhesion of the wallpaper adhesive to the wall.
Step by step, the entire process of preparing walls for wallpaper is discussed in the articles “How to prepare walls for wallpapering” and “”.
Selection and preparation of glue
The quality of wall decoration with tapestries is primarily affected by the type of wallpaper glue. Right choice composition allows you to glue the walls without bubbles and air pockets, with invisible joints, uncontaminated canvases.
When choosing an adhesive composition, it is necessary to take into account the type of wallpaper base. Yes, for paper wallpaper suitable CMC glue firms "Metilan", "Moment", etc. For vinyl wallpaper produced special types of glue, as indicated on the packaging. non-woven can be glued with a special adhesive mass for interlining.
About the types of glue, methods of their preparation and application, as well as compliance different types wallpaper can be read in the material "".
The choice of wallpaper depending on the room
A huge range of wallpapers allows you to choose them for the type of wall, and for a specific room in the apartment. For example, for concrete base walls, even and without flaws, smooth wallpaper will do. Volumetric (embossed) are suitable for all types of wall material. They mask small bulges and depressions well, hide slightly parted seams.
In the rooms south side buildings it is best to use cool colors: gray, blue or green. By the way, they visually increase the rooms in Khrushchev, with their small dimensions - area and ceiling height.
From the north side it is necessary to choose tapestries of warm colors ( beige color with variations) or golden color. In the hallway and corridor dark washable wallpapers in rich shades are suitable. Living room looks great in both light and dark colors. Here the main idea in choosing trellises is to maintain general style interior.
In the bedroom should be calm semitones. The harsh color is annoying and keeps you awake. Photo wallpapers with views of nature look good here and functionally fulfill their role.
Wallpapering technology
Many apartment owners, when replacing tapestries on their own, believe that they know how to glue wallpaper correctly. Indeed, they can stick simple single-layer paper wallpapers on the wall without any problems. However, when working with other types and types of wallpaper, questions begin to arise. So how to glue the wallpaper yourself?
The technology of pasting walls with modern wallpaper is not complicated and consists of several interrelated stages. It can be presented step by step as follows:
- the required number of wallpapers is calculated;
- buy wallpaper and glue;
- prepare the necessary tools and fixtures;
- the place for gluing the first sheet of tapestries is selected;
- the scheme is determined according to which the wallpaper should be glued;
- cutting sheets of wallpaper;
- adhesive mass is being prepared;
- tapestries are glued to the wall.
Materials and tools
For continuous and high-quality work, you will need materials and a set of tools with fixtures.
Materials. For pasting the walls you need to buy:
- wallpaper (non-woven, photo and glass, paper, vinyl, etc.);
- wallpaper glue (preferably specialized).
Tools and fixtures. You can stick wallpaper with a minimum set of tools. But in order for the work to be done quickly and beautifully, you must have at hand:
- ladder;
- plastic bucket - 2 pcs. (for glue and clean water);
- cuvette (bath) for glue;
- roller 250 mm wide and paint brush(brush for wallpaper edges and corners) for applying the adhesive mass;
- metal spatula for cutting wallpaper on the wall;
- plastic wallpaper spatula (wallpaper brush) for leveling thin wallpaper or tapestries with a three-dimensional (embossed) pattern;
- plumb or laser level to find the vertical;
- ruler with a pencil for drawing a vertical starting line;
- construction knife (scissors) with replaceable blades for cutting wallpaper to length;
- roulette;
- rubber roller for pressing the wallpaper to the wall;
- rubber roller, narrow, cone-shaped, for smoothing seams (joints);
- foam rubber sponge for removing glue from the front side of the wallpaper;
- napkin (towel) for hands;
- screwdriver for removing sockets and switches;
- insulating tape for working with electrical wires.
Buying wallpaper
Going to the store for wallpaper, you must strictly observe two conditions:
- buy the required number of tubes;
- buy tubes of the same shade.
Material Quantity Calculation
1. The height of the wall surface to be glued is measured (it may not coincide with the height of the ceiling due to the non-removable plinth and baguette). Then the length of the roll (10 m) is divided by the result of the measurement, resulting in the number of full trellis panels in one roll.
After that, the length of all walls is measured, the results of the measurements are added up - the value of the perimeter in meters is obtained. The resulting number is divided by the width of the wallpaper tube (0.53 m, 1.06 m) and the number of sheets in it. The measurements taken can be written by the formula:
T = P/L x H/K, where
- T is the number of wallpaper tubes, in pcs.
- P is the length of the perimeter of the walls, in m.
- L is the width of the wallpaper tube (0.53 m or 1.06 m).
- H is the height of the pasted wall surface (the length of the pasted wallpaper sheet).
- K - the length of the wallpaper roll (10 m, 15 m and 25 m).
Attention: professional finishers advise not to take into account windows and doors when calculating the amount of wallpaper purchased.
The result obtained must be rounded up and add 1-2 tubes of wallpaper to match the color, for an unforeseen marriage and a reserve (repair of trellis sheets damaged on the wall).
2. The length of the perimeter of the walls is measured, after which the required number of wallpapers is taken from the finished table below.
Attention! If the height of the pattern (rapport) is more than 0.6 cm, it is necessary to add 1 more roll of wallpaper for every 6 tubes to all calculations.
It already takes into account all the nuances of calculating the required number of wallpapers, but without taking into account the fit of the picture.
wallpaper requirements
In the production of wallpaper, machines are filled with paint for a certain batch. When refilling, the tone may be disturbed. At the same time, at the point of sale, the difference in shade may not be seen, but on the wall it will be clearly visible.
Therefore, you need to buy tapestries of the same production batch, one production date and one article number. You can see this data on the insert (label) that wraps each tube of wallpaper, which is clearly visible in the photo. Practice shows that not everyone knows this, and many ignore it. The result is clearly visible on the walls - the different tonality of the tapestries is conspicuous.
Buying glue
The adhesive mass is bought according to the type of wallpaper purchased. The number of packs (tanks) of wallpaper adhesive is easy to determine - the packaging indicates the consumption in rolls with a length of 10 m and a width of 0.53 m.
If the wallpaper has a different size, the flow rate is adjusted. The number of packages is the result of dividing the total number of trellises purchased by the amount of consumption (in rolls).
Where to start gluing
All the recommendations for choosing a place to start decorating walls with trellises state that it doesn’t matter where to start gluing wallpaper in a room - you can start from any place you like: a door, a window, a corner, or even from the middle of the wall (the main thing here is that the first canvas should be glued strictly vertically). However, this advice is not entirely correct. Paper wallpapers, especially single-layer (simplex), should be glued from the window, while in different directions - so the seams are not visible.
Determination of the pasting scheme
Depending on the type of wallpaper, experts offer two pasting schemes. How to glue paper wallpaper is shown in the diagram. Here, work starts from the window and is carried out in different directions.
For other types of tapestries, both the option shown in the diagram and work in a circle are applicable when the beginning and end meet. In this case, work can start from:
- windows (following many years of tradition);
- doors - the box serves as a guide (replaces the vertical line);
- angle - in this case, with the help of a plumb line, a vertical is drawn from which work will be carried out;
- a vertical line drawn on the wall in any arbitrarily chosen place.
Step-by-step instruction
You can wallpaper the walls yourself, without involving professionals. To do this, you must act strictly in accordance with the instructions.
- Using a plumb line, a vertical line is drawn on the wall with a pencil, from which work will begin.
- The height of the wall to be glued is measured and the first sheet of wallpaper is cut to size. Experts advise for non-professionals to make an allowance of 10 cm, although those who have even minimal experience with trellises cut them immediately to size.
- The remaining panels are cut, combining the pattern on the floor, and not on the wall, as some authors of works on this topic recommend. Tapestries without a pattern are simply cut to size.
- Diluted glue according to the instructions printed on the package.
- The adhesive mass is applied to the wallpaper canvas (on the wall in the case of non-woven wallpaper) with a roller or a special brush. The edges are smeared with a brush. First, the first (any) half (slightly more than half) is smeared and folded in half. The fold should not be fixed. Then the second half is spread and also folded in half ( correct method the fold is shown in fig. below).
Folded wallpaper is kept in this state until the end of the impregnation process - the approximate time is given in the table below.
- The upper half of the sheet of wallpaper is opened and glued to the wall (the lower part remains folded all this time). It is necessary to navigate not along the ceiling, but along the drawn vertical (if the upper half is glued correctly, then the second one will easily follow the drawn line).
Attention: if the wallpaper was cut with an overlap, a margin of 4-6 cm is left at the top of the wall.
The wallpaper is smoothed with a wallpaper roller (plastic spatula) from top to bottom, from the center to the edges (see photo).
- The second half of the panel is opened and also glued to the wall.
- The overlaps from above and below are cut with a knife using a metal spatula.
- The second and subsequent sheets are glued in the same way, according to the accepted scheme.
How to make seams invisible
In the process of work, it is important to ensure that the joint remains invisible. Errors occur for 3 reasons:
- the consistency of the glue is incorrectly selected (more liquid than required), as a result of which the edge of the wallpaper bubbles (lags behind) in some places;
- wallpapers by their nature, under the influence of moisture of the adhesive mass, stretch, and when dried, they shrink, forming a visible butt seam;
- a mistake was made when aligning the wallpaper - the sheets were overlapped.
The problem is solved by rolling the joint with a special narrow wallpaper roller. If an error is detected after the trellises have dried, the visible seam is painted over with a special corrective paint.
Places where pasting is overlapped with a metal ruler and a construction knife are cut in the middle 10 hours after the end of work (the wallpaper has shrunk, and the glue has not dried completely and allows you to remove both the lower and upper pieces of the cut trellises).
How to glue wallpaper in the corners
Here are some secrets that allow you to complete the work quickly and efficiently.
- It is impossible to glue a whole sheet at the corner due to a possible violation of its geometry, as a result of which the vertical line disappears at the second part of the wallpaper.
- Wallpaper in the corners is always cut off. On the second wall, it is necessary to leave 2-3 cm. The next canvas is overlapped on the left strip. Then, with a knife with removable blades, using a metal ruler, a continuous cut is made in the middle of the seam. Strips of wallpaper from the bottom and top are removed, and the seam is rolled with a narrow roller. If desired, you can even choose a picture.
- External corners are glued using a similar technology.
How to glue at windows and doors
The greatest inconvenience when pasting walls with wallpaper occurs when meeting with obstacles. You can avoid trouble if you follow the technology of gluing tapestries near doors and windows. You can glue the tapestries near the doorway according to the following algorithm:
- wallpaper is glued to the wall over the doorway;
- the pasted sheet is docked with the previous one;
- wallpaper is tightly pressed against the wall with a roller;
- scissors make a diagonal cut of the wallpaper to the upper corner of the door trim;
- wallpaper is tightly rolled to the side and top trim;
- a strongly protruding part of the wallpaper is cut with scissors;
- with a metal spatula, the left strip of wallpaper is wound under the casing.
Attention: if the platbands sit tightly on the wall and it is impossible to get wallpaper under them, trimming is done with a knife using a metal spatula.
Gluing near the window is much easier - the wallpaper is glued to the wall using conventional technology. After they are completely dry, the unnecessary part of the tapestries is cut off along the edge of the window with a knife.
Frequently asked Questions
At what temperature to glue the wallpaper
Many recommendations indicate that it is necessary to glue the wallpaper at a temperature of 23-25 ° C. However, this temperature regime can only be reached in summer. Winter, when you need to heat up, does not allow you to work in such conditions (in most Russian cities in winter, the temperature in the apartment is 18-20 ° C).
So at what temperature can wallpaper be pasted over walls? Manufacturers of tapestries and glue have taken this into account and recommend finishing work at a temperature of 10-25 ° C. Therefore, in unheated rooms (dacha, veranda), glue wallpaper in winter period Not recommended.
When can I open windows after pasting
Impatient apartment owners try to quickly get rid of the smell of glue and wallpaper. But open windows are drafts. And in drafts, the glue dries quickly and unevenly, as a result of which the adhesive mass does not have time to create the necessary adhesion to the wall. The result is that the seams diverge or the wallpaper sheets peel off.
When can windows be opened? You can open the windows after the glued wallpaper has completely dried - after 1-3 days(the time for complete drying is indicated, as a rule, in the instructions printed on the package with glue). For insurance, it is better to add one day to the specified time.
What to do if the wallpaper bubbles
In practice, there is often a situation, even among professional finishers, when minor violations of technology lead to the appearance of bubbles and air cavities on the surface of glued walls. This is not aesthetically pleasing, and a potential place for the appearance of mold and fungus. How to get rid of bubbles on wallpaper?
Depending on the size of the lagging area, you can advise:
First, re-glue the canvas with very large air cavities. All attempts to fix the problem without tearing the wallpaper off the wall will be noticeable.
Secondly, with medium pockets, it is also better to re-glue plain tapestries (the trace of the cut will be very clearly visible). Wallpaper with a pattern is cut with a construction knife in the middle of the resulting cavity. The edges are carefully, with the help of a spatula, pulled away from the wall and an adhesive mass is delivered to the resulting space with a brush. In this case, it is not necessary to coat the entire dry surface.
You can disperse the glue with a dry cloth with a tightly compressed cut seam. Allow 5-10 minutes to soak the base of the trellis with glue, and then roll the lagging place with a wallpaper roller to remove excess mass and air mites. In this case, it should be remembered that the paper wallpaper from the glue is stretched, and after drying, it decreases in size. Therefore, the edges of the cut must be overlapped. For vinyl and non-woven wallpaper - end-to-end.
Thirdly, small bubbles are eliminated with a syringe. The needle must be taken under the density of the glue - the thicker it is, the thicker the needle. The bubble is pierced in a circle, from the edges to the center, at an angle of about 30 degrees with respect to the wall.
Such a scheme of punctures allows you to cover the entire lagging surface of the wallpaper, as well as release excess adhesive mass through the punctures when smoothing the problem area. If large folds form, they must be smoothed out. Small wrinkles after the glue dries will disappear by themselves.
What to do if the wallpaper is translucent
The problem of translucent wallpaper after their complete drying is solved the only way- alteration of the work performed. Therefore, at the preparatory stage, you should try to avoid this headache:
- prime the walls with a special primer (in extreme cases, whitewash with water-based paint);
- buy thick trellises;
- check medium and thin wallpaper for translucence - attach a piece of sheet to a bright spot and evaluate the degree of density.
How long does wallpaper dry
No one will give a definite answer to this question. There are a lot of factors here. And the type of wallpaper, and the applied adhesive mass, and temperature regime rooms, and air humidity, etc. The maximum run-up is from 12 to 72 hours.
Duplex and non-woven paper wallpapers dry the longest - up to 3 days. Non-woven wallpaper on a different basis (not paper) needs about a day to dry completely, vinyl - about 48 hours.
You can determine the degree of drying of the pasted wall with the palm of your hand - pressing it against the wallpaper. If you feel warm - the wall is completely dry, there is a chill - you still have to wait. In passing, we note that it is strictly forbidden to accelerate the drying process with heating devices.
How to glue meter wallpaper alone
Gluing technique meter wallpaper alone does not have any special techniques that differ from the above instructions for pasting wallpaper.
Good quality work can be achieved if you use the advice of specialists with extensive experience.
- Before starting work, the room where the work is planned is ventilated, and then tightly closed for a day.
- It is better to dismantle the plinth - it can be easily removed (gluing the trellises will become faster and easier). In order not to look for dowel holes under the wallpaper later, self-tapping screws are screwed back into them.
- It is better to cover the floor with cardboard or newsprint, but not plastic wrap(on the film, the glue easily gets under the wallpaper when smearing the edges of the sheet, as a result of which it stains them).
- Use a ladder. The table and the goats often leave marks on the pasted-over walls while moving to another place. In addition, it is more difficult for them to start the bottom of the wallpaper.
- Use specialized wallpaper glue - the universal adhesive mass holds tapestries worse on the wall.
- Do not join the tapestries in the corners - glue with an overlap (1-2 cm), and then cut with a knife, forming a seam.
- Wipe (wash) your hands regularly.
- Do not correct the uneven cut of the wallpaper on the top and bottom of the walls. At the bottom, errors can be hidden with a plinth, at the top with a frieze or baguette.
Related videos
Not only a professional can glue wallpaper correctly, but also a person without special building knowledge and skills. The main thing in this is to follow a certain sequence, be patient and approach the implementation of each stage with full responsibility. Only in this way you will get an excellent result.
As in any construction business, the first stage is rough preparatory work. Before you start creating, you need to prepare your canvas well, namely the wall for pasting, the accuracy and aesthetic appearance of your repair will depend on this.
Step one - rid the walls of the old coating
If you are renovating a newly commissioned new building, you can skip this step. If there are old wallpapers on the walls, you will have to get rid of them.
It is not recommended to peel off the walls on old wallpaper, as this creates a risk that under the influence of moisture and glue the old layer will peel off or blister. In addition, it is quite difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface of the walls.
To remove old wallpapers, we need:
- Spatula or knife with a wide blade;
- Rags and sprayers;
- Soap solution.
The process is very simple. Rags and sprayers need to thoroughly wet the walls (soap solution will act as an adhesive solvent), and remove a layer of old wallpaper with a spatula or knife. When wet, it will come off very easily.
Do not forget that painted walls are also not best surface for a new layer of wallpaper, so you have to get rid of the paint. Sanding or priming - not the most better ways cleaning the surface, using a building hair dryer or a grinder are quite laborious and “dirty” cleaning methods, not to mention the fact that you have to breathe paint fumes or dust, which can cause poisoning. The ideal way to remove paint from walls is with a special wash.
After cleaning the walls from the old layer, you can see how the wall is suitable for pasting, what cracks and dimples need to be leveled and puttied, and this is the second step.
Step two - puttying and leveling the walls
The second step depends entirely on the level of evenness of the walls. If the walls are completely crooked, then most likely you will have to resort to the help of professionals who will level the walls with drywall or plaster on beacons.
Even if the level of the walls is normal, only the surface itself leaves much to be desired (for example, it is in small irregularities, chips or dimples), you still cannot do without putty or any leveling mixture.
For more information on how to prepare the walls and align them, see this video tutorial.
Step three - sanding the surface
In order to prevent grains of sand and particles of putty from showing through under a new layer of wallpaper over time, the leveled surface must be thoroughly sanded. This can be done by gently pressing with a grater or sandpaper - with wide semicircular movements until visible flaws are eliminated. Residues should be removed with a long bristle brush.
Step four - primer
It would seem that you can stop at the third step, but for better adhesion to the surface and greater stability of the putty, a primer on the walls is also needed. In this capacity, either diluted wallpaper glue or a special primer solution can be applied. The primer is evenly applied with a roller on the entire surface of the wall and left to dry for about a day.
The third and fourth steps are detailed in the following video:
This completes the preparatory work, and you can proceed directly to wallpapering.
We glue the wallpaper correctly
There is no single pasting algorithm for all types of wallpaper, each has its own characteristics and nuances. Let's consider them in more detail.
paper wallpaper
The classic version of cosmetic wall decoration is paper wallpaper. This is an inexpensive, environmentally friendly, breathable material that does not cause much difficulty in application. Glue paper wallpaper as follows:
- The roll is rolled out on the floor with the wrong side up, with a pencil and tape measure the height of the wall is + 10 cm (error);
- Use a knife or scissors to cut the roll into pieces, usually 4 strips per roll, if you do not need to select a pattern. If the picture is on the package, as a rule, the tolerance is indicated in centimeters.
- The wall is marked with a pencil and a tape measure so that the pasting is as even as possible.
- We dilute the glue, according to the proportions indicated on the package, and evenly apply it to the strip, paying special attention to the edges. Let it soak for a couple of minutes.
- Using a roller, carefully apply the strip on the wall, without damaging the paper, which is especially sensitive after getting wet.
It is very important not to overexpose the paper-based wallpaper, otherwise you risk bubbles and uneven pasting. The maximum amount of wet wallpaper should lie - 5 minutes, then they need to be quickly glued to the wall.
During pasting, do not forget to also close windows and doors to avoid drafts, due to which they may not “grab” the walls due to the quick drying of the glue.
Vinyl wallpapers
Cutting of rolls vinyl wallpaper is no different from paper markings, so we just repeat the first 2 points of the previous section “Paper wallpapers”. In the case of a pattern, you will have to glue one strip at a time, choosing the pattern of each subsequent strip. Next, glue the vinyl wallpaper like this:
- We prime or coat the wall with a thin layer of glue, let it dry for 15-20 minutes;
- We coat the cut strip and apply it to the wall with a roller;
- Subsequent strips, unlike paper wallpaper, are applied end-to-end, without overlapping one another.
All layers of glue - both on the wall and on the wallpaper, must be applied in a very thin layer so that its remnants, when rolled out with a roller, do not fall on the outer surface and leave no marks, especially on light wallpaper.
Smooth the wallpaper, if bubbles appear, from the center to the edges.
The final touch will be trimming the excess wallpaper at the plinth. It is worth doing this with a sharp blade only when the wallpaper is dry to avoid “chewing” them.
Non-woven wallpaper
Non-woven wallpaper is glued in the same way as vinyl wallpaper, only for them it is not necessary to coat the strip itself, since it already contains a binder polymer, it is enough to moisten the wall with special glue.
Wallpaper for painting
There are 2 types - or vinyl, so we paste them, according to the above instructions. Before applying the paint, let the wallpaper dry perfectly, ideally about a day. Choosing paint for interior decoration water-based acrylic houses are optimal. They do not give smudges, fit perfectly and do not hide the texture of the wallpaper.
Pasting on drywall
One of the options finishing drywall is . They simply, easily and very evenly lie on the surface of the drywall, if the seams between the sheets are first sealed. However, those who decide to change the wallpaper in the future will be in for an unpleasant surprise. They lay down easily when pasting, but they are dismantled along with the layer, so it is advisable to treat the surface with plaster before applying. Otherwise, be guided by the type of wallpaper that you will be gluing.
We glue unusual wallpapers
We paste over the ceiling
I want to note right away that alone better ceiling do not glue, especially if you are new to this business. we prepare in the same way as the surface of the walls before pasting, i.e. we clean from the old layer (paint, whitewash or wallpaper), putty the bumps, if any, and be sure to prime the surface.
- It is advisable to draw a control line (the place where the first strip is pasted), which you will be guided by. For less visibility of the joints, glue, starting from the window and moving towards the opposite wall.
- To facilitate the pasting process and not to wash the glue out of the head later, when smearing, fold the strips with a snake, approximately 30-40 cm each, so that the smeared folds come into contact with each other. And then gradually unfold the wallpaper when sticking.
- We align and expel the bubbles in the applied strip with a roller from the center, moving towards the edges.
- Cut off the excess on the wall with a sharp blade after drying.
On a note! Before starting work, turn off the electricity, close the windows and put on clothes with wide pockets with everything you need (roller, knife, rag) so as not to jump up and down the ladder for the tool.
Customizing the drawing
How to glue wallpaper with a pattern? There are two options.
- Stick the first sheet on the wall, and when measuring the second, combine the pattern directly on the wall;
- Combine two non-glued strips on the floor and only then glue.
It is advisable to glue the strips end-to-end so as not to disturb the geometry of the pattern.
We stick photo wallpaper
Wall murals in the interior are not only original design decision, but also the ability to visually expand the space. With their help, you can “open” a window to a Garden of Eden full of flowers, create a delightful view of the city landscape, turn a doorway into an arch, or change the ceiling to a blue sky with clouds.
Examples of interesting interior solutions with photo wallpaper can be found in the video below:
A few tips for pasting photo wallpapers:
- It is better to glue photo wallpapers with special glue so as not to spoil the extremely thin canvas;
- We stick them on a perfectly flat, prepared, puttied surface;
- Be sure to mark the surface of the wall in centimeters, as indicated in the instructions. We start from the window. Horizontal and vertical lines should form even right angles of 90°.
- We cut off the white stripes along the edges of the photo wallpaper;
- We coat the parts of the photo wallpaper, do not wait, as in the case of other types, immediately paste them on the wall.
- Gently smooth with a roller and a rag, without damaging the fragile surface of the wallpaper.
Where to start and how to glue in the corners
| Relative to the window | Relative to canvas wallpaper | Relative to the corners | |
| Wallpaper on the ceiling | We begin to glue from the window, moving towards the opposite wall so that there are no noticeable overlaps. | It is best to glue wallpaper on the ceiling, starting from the center and gradually moving towards the edges, so symmetry will be observed, and the final work will look neater. | It is better not to start from the corners, because. there is a risk that the strip will go crooked. |
| Wallpaper | As a rule, they are glued from the window, since the joints are not visible this way. | We begin to glue from the ceiling, but we level not along the ceiling line, but along the first strip of wallpaper. That is why it is so important to stick it evenly. | In the future, if the wall is not even, it is better to glue the corners with separate cut pieces of wallpaper. |
Adhering to these simple rules, you can accurately, quickly, and most importantly, qualitatively, make your own cosmetic repairs.
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It is rare that an apartment renovation is complete without wallpapering. This universal type of decorative coating is suitable for any interior, it is loved for its ease of installation and perfect look.
Wallpaper - a coating that occurs in every second modern apartment
With your own hands - the task is not difficult, especially if you have all the necessary tools. Experienced people get by with a brush and roller, but other devices may come in handy for a beginner:
- paint bath and roller for applying glue. It is better to choose a roller with a pile of medium length, and the dimensions of the bath should correspond to the roller. You can replace it with a wide brush with a comfortable handle. In addition, keep a small brush handy for gluing seams;
- rubber roller for smoothing streaks on the wall and removing air bubbles on thin wallpaper. For thick ones, instead of a roller, you can use;
- a roller with a roller for pressing the web in the inner corners;
- container for dilution of glue: it is better to use a large pot or bucket with a lid. Airtight dishes will allow you to keep ready-to-use glue for several days;
- drill or construction mixer for mixing glue. If we are talking about a small amount of work, you can do it manually;
- pencil, long ruler, tape measure and scissors for marking and cutting canvases. For cutting, you can use a construction knife - the edges are smoother;
- a plumb line or building level for marking the vertical line from which you will glue the wallpaper;
- a sponge to remove excess glue and a dry rag for cleaning up debris.
In addition, in fact, the wallpaper itself, you need to prepare the glue. The composition is selected in accordance with the type of coating. You can buy glue at the store and dilute it according to the instructions.
Note! Instructions for the preparation of glue is placed on the package. It indicates the proportions of water and powder, the consumption of glue per square meter of surface and the specifics of the application.
The preparatory stage before sticking wallpaper on the wall with your own hands
Do not rush to immediately start wallpapering. It is not enough just to purchase tools and materials, you still need to carry out preparatory work. Examine the condition of the walls, remove the old coating and carefully prime the surface.
How to remove the old coating from the walls
If previously the walls were already decorated with wallpaper, they must be removed. In most cases, the material is easily torn off, but if you have pieces or whole strips that cannot be torn off, you will have to use special tools. Compositions for removing old wallpaper can be bought at the store, but it is cheaper and easier to make such a mixture yourself. The recipe is simple: warm water add dishwashing detergent and some wallpaper paste. Using a sponge, the agent is applied to the wallpaper and left for half an hour until the coating softens.
Ask a Question
“Any alignment of the walls is accompanied by the formation a large number debris and dust. Remember to use a respirator to protect your respiratory tract and close the doors to other rooms."
Wall primer
Do not neglect the primer of the walls. If you skip this stage of preparation, you risk getting an extremely unpleasant result - the wallpaper will simply peel off. In addition, the primer will even out the color of the wall, and the gray concrete will not show through under a thin coating. The primer mixture will fill the voids in the porous surface, you spend less glue.
For walls made of, concrete and wood, a universal acrylic primer is used. It is easy to apply, diluted with plain water and dries fairly quickly.
Note! Unscrupulous sellers may offer you, instead of acrylic primer, PVA glue solution. Be careful, outwardly the compositions are very similar, but the glue has a specific smell.
For walls made of wood, plywood or alkyd primer can be used. It dries for a long time - almost a day, but provides excellent adhesion even for heavy wallpaper. Metal walls are treated with a glyptal primer similar to enamel. Only she guarantees you quality coating. The same primer can be used for plastic. This coating will dry overnight. Another option for a mixture for metal is perchlorovinyl primer, but it is not recommended for use in residential areas due to its high toxicity.
How to glue wallpaper - basic techniques
After you have prepared the walls well before the main stage of work, you need to solve several important questions: where to start gluing, how to properly cut the wallpaper and paste it in difficult and hard-to-reach places.
Related article:
interesting solutions for the living room, bedroom, children's room, kitchen and corridor. The basic rules for selecting canvases and recommendations from designers - read in our review.
Where to start gluing wallpaper and how to fit the pattern
Wise own experience older relatives will tell you that you need to glue the wallpaper from the window. Indeed, the old paper panels were glued just like that for one simple reason: the joints were overlapped, and so that in natural light the seams were not conspicuous, they had to be directed away from the window. Modern manufacturers offer panels that are glued end-to-end. Such seams are less noticeable, but they require a perfectly even base. So the question of where to start work becomes less relevant: start from any side on which it is convenient for you to draw a vertical, and glue in a circle.
Pay attention to several important nuances:
- how the wallpaper will look in the opening between the windows. It is not always good if a seam is placed in a narrow opening;
- where the furniture will be. If you plan to put and do not place wallpaper behind it in order to save money, you need to decide on a starting point;
- if you plan to place it on one of the walls, you need to evenly measure the location of the pattern and continue pasting from this place.
The first canvas is the most difficult task. It is important to place it strictly vertically so that the slightest skew does not spoil all the work later.
Expert point of view
Dmitry Kholodok
Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"
Ask a Question“If you use a plumb line, rub the rope with chalk or paint. Fasten the top end of the plumb line and pull the bottom lightly - the paint will remain on the wall and mark the desired line.
Most often, rooms in apartments have imperfect corners. Therefore, it is better to mark the vertical on each wall. Wallpapering technology requires pattern fitting. Fashionable finishes are distinguished by complex ornaments and bright images. You should be aware that on the wallpaper packaging, manufacturers indicate the offset distance to fit the pattern. But in practice, it is easier to do the adjustment manually, visually combining the pattern. And this should be done not only at the stage of cutting the canvases, but also in the process of gluing them.
Video: wallpapering with a large pattern
Glue on the wallpaper or on the wall - how to apply it correctly
The answer to this question depends on what type of wallpaper you have chosen for your renovation. If you have paper wallpapers at your disposal, the glue is applied directly to the canvas. For reliable gluing of thick vinyl or non-woven coatings, the adhesive composition is applied to both the wallpaper and the wall. Non-woven wallpaper can be glued without applying the composition to the canvas, limited only to the processing of the wall.
How to glue wallpaper in the corners of a room
Most often, in the course of work, one has to deal with inside corners. Here you should make sure that the strip covers the corner and a few centimeters behind it. Even if the canvases are glued end-to-end, you need to overlap in the corners. Only in this way will you get an even angle. Use a level or plumb line as a guide. So that the overlap is not noticeable on thick wallpaper, after gluing, cut both layers along the ruler with a sharp knife, and until the wallpaper is dry, remove excess stripes from one side and the other. If necessary, add glue with a small brush.
You will also have to tinker with the outer corners. They are rarely perfectly even, so here you also need to use an overlap of 3 centimeters. After the first canvas has been glued, you need to cut it off, leaving a thin edge at the corner. The second strip is aligned vertically on the other wall and fixed so that there is a minimal overlap on the first panel. How to glue wallpaper in the corners in a short video course.
How to glue wallpaper near windows, doors and behind the battery
So, you glue the wallpaper with your own hands, and you have reached. Feel free to fasten the new canvas so that an entrance to the window is formed. If you need to seal the slopes, make two horizontal cuts and bend the panel. If it does not reach the frame, you will have to make another cut, it is advisable to join it at the corner (see the technology for gluing external corners described above).
is a serious obstacle. You can’t place wallpaper behind them, so you have to cut them off. This must be done so that it is not noticeable that there is a bare wall behind the battery. To do this, leave a part of the canvas so that it goes 10 centimeters onto the radiator, and then tuck it behind the device, pressing and smoothing it with a spatula. How to glue the wallpaper yourself behind the battery in the video.
How to make seams invisible
Why can the seams between panels remain visible? There are several reasons for this effect:
- defective coloring of the edge of the wallpaper. A minimum strip of tenths of a millimeter without paint can cause the seams to be visible;
- an error in gluing the canvas - a skew in one direction leads to minimal overlap or a gap;
- loose adhesion of the material to the base, part of the strip may lag behind due to an air bubble.
It happens that you noticed the marriage too late, what to do? There are several ways to mask the seam so that it becomes invisible. If you get an unplanned overlap, you just need to cut through both canvases as you would when working with internal corners, and remove excess strips.
Important! In order for the edges of the wallpaper to adhere tightly to the base, additionally coat them with glue and roll them with a rubber roller.
Notice the uneven coloring of the edge? It is best to return such wallpapers to the store, this is a defective product. If for some reason this is not possible, for example, you bought the material in another city, then try cutting off the unpainted edge. This is difficult, and new joint problems will inevitably arise. It is best to do this during the gluing process, specifically overlapping and cutting off the edge already on the wall. As an alternative to this method - the use of a suitable color paint. It is better to take the color half a tone darker.
How to stick wallpaper of different types
A wide range of wallpapers in modern stores includes products not only for every taste, but also for every budget. You can limit yourself to buying cheap paper-based wallpaper or purchase more expensive non-woven or vinyl options. Is there a difference in gluing different types wallpaper?
How to glue paper wallpaper
Paper is an inexpensive and environmentally friendly coating. Experts advise when gluing paper finishes to apply glue to the panels. Keep in mind: the paper quickly absorbs the glue, so you have to work very quickly, otherwise the strip will get wet and will tear when glued.
Do not be alarmed if, even after careful leveling, irregularities appear on the surface after a few minutes - after drying, the canvases will “pull up” and be even again.
How to glue vinyl wallpaper
For vinyl wallpaper, you definitely need to purchase a special glue. This material is thick, and should only be placed end-to-end. On the packaging of vinyl wallpaper, they usually write what glue should be applied to: on the panel or on the wall. Unlike paper, vinyl strips should soak with glue within 10-15 minutes. The video below gives recommendations on how to glue vinyl wallpaper with your own hands:
Article
Very often you can see how two people spend precious time, pasting one room with wallpaper. One of them, as a rule, is engaged in smearing the strip with glue and serving it to his partner, who has been idle on the scaffold all this time. Then they change places. While the second adjusts the strip in place, the first contemplates the process and gives "valuable" advice. Then they swear and pasting is transferred to another day.
However, all wallpaper work can be done by one person, without a partner. Moreover, labor productivity increases significantly. It is enough to master a few tricks and abandon stamps, many of which are more than one hundred years old.
List of required tools
For productive work with wallpaper, you need to replenish your arsenal of tools. Here is a complete list of what is required for this:
- Lightweight ladder.
- Clean plastic bucket for glue.
- Cuvette for glue.
- paint roller with an average density of fur 250 mm wide.
- Flat brush with a width of at least 50 mm.
- Wallpaper line.
- Wallpaper knife and a set of spare blades for it at the rate of 1 pack per room.
- Scissors.
- Roulette and pencil.
- Water or laser two-plane self-leveling level.
- Wallpaper brush (if the selected wallpaper requires careful handling when smoothing).
- Rubber wallpaper roller (wide, for smoothing the panels).
- Rubber roller for joints (suitable for most types of wallpaper).
- Plastic cone-shaped ribbed joint roller (suitable for heavy wallpaper with special manufacturer's instructions).
- Plastic wallpaper spatula (for smooth wallpaper it can be used instead of a rubber roller, and when working with other wallpapers, it is convenient for them to press down the wallpaper in the corners).
- Cardboard or thick construction film is wider than the width of the wallpaper.
- Sponge and gauze cut to remove excess glue.
- Pliers, screwdriver, electrical tape.
A few words about surface preparation
Not so long ago, the attitude towards wallpaper could be characterized by the phrase: “Paint it so that it is clean and terrible walls was not visible! In the modern sense, the place of wallpaper in the interior is much wider. Therefore, under the wallpaper there must be a reliable, even and clean surface. These requirements are met by high-quality plaster puttied in several layers with intermediate grinding and priming of each layer. Such a surface does not require scale repair work in the future and can withstand repeated wallpapering during subsequent cosmetic repairs.
There are wallpapers that can be removed without residue. These, for example, include all types of non-woven wallpaper. All types of vinyl wallpaper (this is the most common class of decorative wall coverings on the market) have a peelable backing that remains on the wall and is a ready-made base for gluing other wallpapers. Therefore, the requirement for high strength plaster and putty layers is relevant. The base should not fall off together with the wallpaper when they are subsequently removed.
You can check the quality of the surface by scratching the wall crosswise in an inconspicuous place with a hard, sharp object. If a chip does not form in the crosshair, then the surface is solid.
Pattern matching, labeling and storage of strips
The bulk of the wallpaper comes with a pattern. The larger it is, the greater its step (rapport), the more waste there will be during work. The first technological operation when working with wallpaper is pattern matching, marking and storage of strips.
Two rolls are rolled out on a clean floor. The one on the left in the photo has already been cut to length according to the desired height with a margin of at least 10 cm from this size. The second roll is aligned with the pattern on the first page and pencil marks are made along its edges. You can cut these places with scissors.
In order not to mess with a square and a ruler, it is enough to align the strip of wallpaper along the edges in the place where the incision was made, and press down the place of the inflection with your hands.
Then you need to cut off the rest of the wallpaper roll from the canvas with scissors. Don't worry about uneven edges. After all, the margin in length is intended for this, so that after gluing the strip on the wall, cut off the excess in place with high accuracy already under the ruler.
In the meantime, the previous marking strip is no longer needed. On her reverse side you need to mark with an arrow the direction where the top will be, number and roll the base out. The roll must be placed vertically against the wall on which it will be glued in the future.
The next canvas is marked and stored in the order indicated above. With this method of preparing and storing cuts ready for gluing, you can straighten the wallpaper without taking up space in the room.
Usually cut strips are spread on top of each other front side down, and glue is applied to the top strip in the stack. In this case, the edges of the lower cuts are damaged, which significantly reduces the quality of work.
Markup. Let's say plumb - no
The next stage of work is the marking of the walls in accordance with the plan. Almost all wallpapering guides advise using a plumb line for this. Stone Age! There is not a single professional who would use this device. For marking vertical and horizontal lines, either a water level or a laser is used. Mark the position of the first stripes from the corners (vertical lines), the position of the border on the wall or the transition from one wallpaper to another (horizontal level).
When drawing a line with a pencil, you do not need to draw it with effort. It is enough just to mark with a dotted line. If the line is left solid, then under transparent non-woven wallpaper it will be visible even through two layers of paint, while other wallpapers can be stained with graphite dust. It is important to make a small tolerance in width. Let's say the width of the wallpaper is 53 cm. Then the vertical line must be removed, stepping back at least 54 cm from the corner, placing the edge parallel to the marking line, there is less chance of deviating from it than letting the wallpaper go straight along it.
Application of glue, impregnation and gluing of the strip
After all the preparatory stages are completed, you can proceed to the direct pasting of the room. By that time, all the stripes will straighten out. Glue must be diluted before starting work, following the manufacturer's recommendations. One rule that is common to all can be noted here: the water must be clean and cold, and the glue must be poured into the water in a thin stream with continuous stirring. Do not dilute two packs of glue at once. It thickens quickly and lumps will form. The type of glue must match the type of wallpaper.
The strip must be rolled out on cardboard or film. Pour part of the glue into a cuvette, dip a roller into it and apply it to the wallpaper. It is important to grease the edges well. Glue with an indicator is ideal for this. Nothing bad will happen if the roller goes over the edge of the canvas. Fresh glue is easily removed with a damp sponge or gauze. The layer of applied adhesive should be uniform, but not thick.
Immediately after applying the glue, the wallpaper must be folded, as shown in the photo, and left to soak for three to five minutes. If the next strip of wallpaper passes through flat wall without obstacles, you can miss the next cut and also fold it. But more than three strips for impregnation should not be left - they will begin to stick together.
The strip impregnated with glue must be deployed by climbing the stairs. According to the mark, find the top and attach it to the wall, making an overlap on the ceiling (the magnitude of the overlap should be greater than the total slope of the floors, which in some houses can reach 10 cm).
First, the upper half of the panel is glued and adjusted according to the pattern. Then you need to go down the stairs and unfold the second half of the wallpaper, fit it end-to-end and start smoothing it with a wide rubber roller (a wallpaper spatula or a wallpaper brush, depending on the type of wallpaper), starting from the middle and top, ending with the edges and bottom, squeezing all the air out.
Immediately after this, the joint is rolled with a narrow rubber roller. The seams can not be strongly squeezed and rubbed with a rag. Excess glue should be blotted with a sponge, which should be washed immediately in running water.
The less attention is focused on the seams, the less they will stand out after drying.
Sockets and switches - to remove or not to remove
The answer is unequivocal - shoot! There are several reasons. Firstly, electrical fittings are sometimes replaced, and a different model of outlet or switch may have different dimensions. Well, if they are large, but if not? Secondly, the rosette installed over the wallpaper looks much better than the one cut off along the contour.
In many manuals, it is advised to cut the wallpaper crosswise at the installation site of the box, and bend the resulting sectors inward and glue them. Not the best option in terms of fire safety. It is better to immediately cut the middle out of the box.
This must be done while the wallpaper is damp, as they tend to stretch as they dry, and then it is difficult to find the place where the installation box is located. Naturally, when dismantling the electrical fittings, it is necessary to de-energize the room, and insulate the bare wires and put them inside the box.
How to cut off the excess
One of the main tools in the wallpaper business is a flexible ruler. It is arranged simply: a strip of flexible stainless steel is sealed in a plastic case 60 cm long. The ruler is able to tightly cling even to uneven surfaces, exactly repeating all their bends. The photo shows how to use it.
It is important to remember that after each cut, you need to break off the tip of the blade of the wallpaper knife so that it is always sharp. Saving here is completely unjustified. After the excess is removed, you need to wipe the surface with a damp sponge.
Despite the fact that the wallpaper is damp, the cut remains clean, without scratches and lint. Without a wallpaper ruler, it is impossible to accurately perform such work.
Heating radiators - ways to get around a sore spot
Any master, regardless of qualification, really does not like heating radiators. In terms of complexity and painstakingness, this warm place in the apartment presents the greatest difficulty when pasting wallpaper. Batteries are provided in new buildings, which are quite easy to remove and install back. When dismantling the radiator, only wall mounts and floor outlets remain from it, to which it is connected by means of quick connectors(the so-called Americans).
With this method of pasting the surface behind the radiator, little time and nerves are spent. Much more of it will be required to first remove and then return the battery to its place. Before unscrewing the “American” nuts, you need to turn off the valves on the supply and return of the radiator and drain the water, having previously reduced the pressure by unscrewing the shut-off screw on the drain valve.
If it is not possible to remove the radiator, then it is enough to put wallpaper strips along its perimeter to a depth of about 15 cm on each side. It is recommended to additionally glue the wall surface behind the battery with glue, especially if it works.
To quickly and accurately perform wallpaper work without an assistant, you should use a few useful tips:
- Use only a ladder. "Goats" and scaffolding are bulky, they can easily damage the walls.
- Working with non-woven wallpaper or fiberglass, there is no need to pre-cut and adjust the strip according to the pattern. It is possible to make pasting from a roll, as the glue for these types of wallpaper is applied to the wall.
- To make the edge of the wallpaper going along the slopes neat, you need to make a small overlap (1-2 cm), wait until the wallpaper dries, and then cut off the excess with a sharp wallpaper knife.
- Do not join the wallpaper strictly in the corners. It is better to make a transition from one plane to another by an amount exceeding the deviation of the wall from the vertical, and stick the next wallpaper sheet in level, overlapping the previous strip, cut both sheets under the ruler, and remove the excess.
- All types floor covering, except for parquet and tiles, are laid after wallpapering.
- If parquet is laid on the floor, then before wallpaper it must be covered with two or three layers of thick cardboard. It is impossible to cover the parquet with foil!
- Hands must be clean. After each pasted panel, wipe them with a damp gauze, which you periodically rinse out.
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