Deciding how to make a wooden fence. Step-by-step instructions for making a fence from a wooden picket fence How to saw off a fence in a semicircle

Timber, boards and screws. What can be done with such a modest set of materials? ! Wooden fences undeservedly faded into the background. And absolutely in vain! Of course, in terms of stability and reliability, the fence made of boards significantly loses to its brick and concrete counterparts, but a minimum of time, effort and money is spent on the construction of a wooden fence.

At the same time, you can handle all the necessary activities on your own. By showing a little imagination and doing everything according to the instructions, you will create a truly original and interesting design.

Before proceeding with the construction, we pay due attention to the choice source material. For the arrangement of the fence we use only high-quality dense wood. The wood of oak, aspen, ash, Siberian larch, alder, mulberry is perfect.

Among all the listed options, the most interesting is the Siberian larch. A fence built from it will serve as long as possible. If one of the main enemies of most wood species is moisture, then larch only becomes stronger from contact with water.

We limit the use of pine except for the arrangement of the fence shield, in case of breakage or wear of the fence, such material can be replaced without special financial costs and effort.

Picket fence - pine

Important! And in no case do we use birch for the construction of the fence - it is extremely unstable and short-lived.

It is also important to choose quality material for making supports. With wooden spans, wooden poles will be best combined. You can either dig them into the ground or attach them to special metal stands (consoles) concreted in pre-created recesses.

Important! To prolong the life of wood, it must first be impregnated. It will reduce the intensity of the harmful effects of moisture, air, fungus and other harmful microorganisms on the building material.

To fix the effect, it is recommended to treat the wood with a special dye, for example, Swedish paint. It will give the material a very beautiful shade. If desired, a dye of a different color can be applied over the dried Swedish paint.

To prepare Swedish paint, we need:

• blue vitriol- 250 g;
• salt - 250 g;
• iron minium - 250 g;
• drying oil - 230 ml;
• flour - 570 g;
• water - about 4.5 liters.

Following the given proportions, you can prepare any required amount of dye.

The paint is quite economical. About 200-250 ml of dye is spent on covering 1 m 2 of the surface. The above recipe allows you to prepare a golden color paint. If you want to get a different shade, replace the minium with manganese peroxide, ocher, or another component of your choice.

Swedish paint is prepared in the following order:

• paste is cooked. To prepare it, stir the flour in 3 liters of water;
• the finished paste is passed through a sieve - this allows you to remove lumps from the mixture;
• strained paste is again put on fire. Salt and copper sulfate are added to the mixture. Constantly stir the mixture, achieving complete dissolution of vitriol;
• while continuing to stir the paste, add drying oil to it, and then pour in a certain amount of water (usually about 1.5 l) until a homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

We apply the finished paint to the wood in a double layer.

Table. How to paint a wooden fence

Paints	Binder	Life time
Acrylic	Polyacrylate	6-20 years old
Water dispersion	organic solvents	>20 years
Oily	Drying oil	2-3 years
silicate	liquid incandescent glass	20 years
Silicone	silicone resin	20 years
Enamel	Alkyd resin	10 years

For example, you can assemble a fence according to the wattle principle. Boards are attached in a bent state. Trying to straighten up, they will fit snugly enough against the supporting pillars.

Another great option is to fill the space between the supports. wooden siding. We fasten the sheathing boards, starting from the bottom, withstanding a 25 mm overlap.

The fences made in the form of blinds look no less original. By laying the boards with a downward slope towards the street, you will create an invisible fence that is resistant to wind loads.

Also, the boards can be nailed from the end. To perform the highest quality sheathing, we first make markings on each rack.

In the case of installing metal poles, they can be hidden by sheathing the racks on both sides. From above, we close the metal supports with wooden plugs.

If desired, you can make the fence more original and on wooden support posts. We make inclined grooves in the supports, and then insert the ends of the lamellas into them. Additionally, we fasten each bar with self-tapping screws. To hide the attachment points, we close the screws with wooden plates. We crown the upper part of the supports with plugs.

To make the fence look more original and modern, we can fill the boards with a small gap (up to 15 mm). At the same time, the narrower the boards will be (of course, within reasonable limits), the more interesting the design of the fence will turn out.

You can also use boards of different widths. When choosing this sheathing method, be sure to make sure that the pattern on adjacent sections matches.

There are a lot of options for decorating wood. Choose the one you like and start building the fence. You already have all the knowledge necessary for this.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Successful work!

Video - DIY wooden fence

Decorative fence with your own hands. Photo

The phenomenon, popular all over the world, is available to every person. You just need to learn how to properly grow bushes.

Purpose and forms

This is very effective remedy not only in, but also in the working plan. It can perform many functions. First of all, you have the opportunity to isolate yourself from the annoying glances of passers-by.

From what form the hedge is given, it is divided into:

Each profile is created by different instruments and types. For example, rectangular shape can be created using views. If they are light-loving, then with this form of a bush lower leaves may die off.

If you want to achieve the shape of a triangle, then you need to trim the bushes at 80 ° on both sides. The most optimal is a trapezoid hedge, as it allows all leaves and shoots to receive the optimal amount of sunlight, which means it suits many species.

A circle of plants is the most difficult to create, it requires the possession of certain skills. Therefore, this form is most rarely resorted to, although it looks very harmonious on any site.

If the territory of the cottage allows, then you can organize the second type - a freely growing hedge. Its width, unlike the previous one, can reach up to 3 m.
Such hedges are created from plants that do not tolerate a haircut. Instead, they take on their aesthetics - beautifully growing, which are large and bright.

All this gives the site a solemn look. Usually planted, given the color of the leaves or themselves and creating a unique palette of colors.

Did you know? In Europe, parks with figures made in the form of animals, people and geometric figures began to appear during the Renaissance.

How often to cut?

A free-growing hedge can only be trimmed once a year or 2, just to trim the bushes. This is also necessary to stimulate flowering. Although this procedure can not be done at all.

As for the sheared type of hedges, then, of course, everything is a little more complicated. In the early years, it is necessary to carry out a haircut 1 time for the whole. This occurs in early autumn or late spring.

So the plant will rapidly gain height, much faster than with a single haircut. It is necessary to follow the fence, and then you yourself will understand when you need to cut the bushes - with the loss of clear lines of the figure and the appearance of young shoots.

Most often used to form a hedge. If they are too branched, then they are cut at a distance of 30 cm from the ground, and if there are few new shoots, then 15 cm is enough.

If you planted a plant in the fall, then you will have to cut it for the first time in the spring of next year. If it has been growing on the site since spring or summer, then you will have to cut it off after you have planted it.

If the hedge consists of, then you should not cut it. This can be done no more than once a year, then in order for it to grow better.

Pruning shrubs in groups

Robert Marklay - German garden expert - subdivided into special groups. This was necessary in order to facilitate the understanding of which plants and in what period should be pruned.

First

The first group includes those that do not require cutting bushes in the spring. This is because this group contains mainly such specimens that have a low ability to regenerate, respectively, they need to be cut less often.

In addition to a long period of growth, the plant is extremely difficult to tolerate the wounds inflicted on it. It is enough to cut only old branches so as not to harm the bushes.

The first group includes plants such as, laurel cherry.

Second

The second group includes those that begin to bloom earlier than the rest. Pruning in such cases is carried out after the end of the flowering period.

The process is to remove old flowers. Thus, you will give rise to new ones. There is no need to carry out any additional procedures.

Important! If you prune shrubs of the second type in early spring, then they will not give flowers, since there were buds on the cut shoots.

It is necessary to trim the faded branches by one third. Such an approach will help abundant flowering. Be careful not to cut branches at the same height each year.

If you do this, the branch will become compacted and a painful outgrowth will appear on it. It will not allow the plant to release new shoots from below.

The second group includes, kolkvitsia, early flowering, as well.

The second group formed a small addition: subgroup 2a. It included those shrubs that need total cutting. These include gorse, etc.

Usually, after the flowering period, they need to be cut to the base, or to new shoots. So on next year they will produce lush flowers.

Third

The third group includes those hedges that have a late flowering period. If this happens, then this means that the buds and shoots were formed in the same year.

Green fences on the border of the site can be grown from free-growing plants that do not require additional removal of branches, but only regular trimming of the hedge will help to achieve an aristocratic look with the correct geometric proportions. Despite the external lightness, this issue should be approached seriously and with knowledge of some nuances. It is necessary to begin the formation of the future fence in the first year after planting.

Types of pruning to achieve different goals

There are several types of hedge trimming: shaping, rejuvenation and sanitary pruning. You should also pay attention to the fact that there are secrets to shaping a deciduous fence and an evergreen conifer fence.

Pruning - part of the care of the green fence

How to properly form a crown

For freely growing plantations, formation is not necessary at all, you can only sometimes remove branches that stand out from the general appearance. In most cases, hedges are grown from plants that need pruning and shaping to keep the landscape neat.

It is worth knowing that the width of the hedge is made from 40 to 80 cm. This option is not only easy to maintain, but also does not take up a large area. Depending on the crop chosen, even a 60 cm wall can become an insurmountable obstacle to uninvited guests or animals. Growing a wider fence is advisable in areas with a large area.

Scheme of formation over several years

Crown formation in deciduous trees and shrubs begins in the first year after planting, if planting was carried out in spring. If in the fall - then only next spring. The trunk is immediately removed so that a stump of 15 cm from the ground remains. This is done in order to increase the side shoots. The following year, the grown shoots are removed by 1/3. Only after 3-4 years, you can simply level the side shoots.

A live fence made of coniferous plants should not be cut much, as it initially has the correct shape and grows very slowly. Usually, the formation is reduced to the removal of side shoots, old branches, but this is done carefully, without cutting large areas. It is better not to touch the tops at all until the fence grows to the required height. The first removal of branches is carried out only a year after planting.

There is a rule that is followed when determining the number of haircuts:

• for conifers - once a year in the spring, if there is a slow growth of the crown;
• for deciduous - at least twice a year in spring and autumn. Mature plants require trimming every six weeks to maintain a neat appearance.

Conifers have the correct shape

When Rejuvenation Is Needed

Crown rejuvenation is usually required for neglected living fences, which not only have grown strongly, but also have a solid age. In extreme cases, uprooting of old plantings and planting new seedlings in their place is required. But if there is a desire to save plantings, then cardinal pruning is important. carry it out better in spring so that the fence has strength to recover.

Many cultures quite easily tolerate the complete removal of the crown, up to leaving a low stump, which becomes the basis for future young shoots. But there is a more gentle approach to how to trim a hedge for the purpose of rejuvenation. You must first remove the branches from one side of the bushes, leaving stumps 10 cm from the trunk. After a year or two, do this procedure with the second half. In this embodiment, obstruction and protection from the curious eyes of passers-by are preserved.

Rejuvenation of old plantings

What is sanitary pruning and when to do it

Sanitary pruning refers to the thinning of the crown, the removal of old, withered or broken branches. It can be produced during the entire period of active growth from spring to frost. Just do not get carried away too much, as bald spots overgrow for a long time.

Cut branches and leaves must be burned or thrown away, but not left on the site, otherwise they can become a breeding ground for pests and diseases. This haircut is most relevant for flowering and fruit plantations. It is important to remove faded inflorescences and ripened fruits in time, as they take away strength.

Brush cutter application

What tools are needed for the job

Specialty stores offer a large selection of tools that make trimming hedges easier. Usually, to form a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bplantings, brush cutters or a compact chainsaw are purchased.

Hedge trimmers are of two types:

1. Equipped with a gasoline engine.
2. Having an electric motor.

Application of garden shears

The second is inconvenient in that you need to pull the cord along the site, although it is cheaper than the gasoline counterpart. You can use batteries, but they are designed for continuous operation of no more than 40 minutes.

The use of garden shears is advisable for finishing touches in hard-to-reach places or in a small area, as it will be physically difficult to cut the entire hedge. Pruners are often used - it is convenient for trimming both individual shoots and the entire surface.

Rope for clear lines

High fences will require an additional ladder that is easy to move. Also, do not focus on your eye when forming. It is better to pull the rope and cut only the shoots that go beyond its borders.

Many overlook the fact that pruning a hedge in autumn or spring is hard to tolerate by any plantings, therefore, in order to adapt and recuperate, it is important to periodically mulch the soil and apply organic and mineral fertilizers.

In recent years, the fashion for wooden buildings has led to the fact that more and more developers are thinking that a metal fence may not be the most best solution. In terms of durability, maybe yes, but in terms of aesthetics, it is inferior to wood. The wooden fence has somewhat lost its popularity due to its short life: wood, with constant exposure to the sun and water, quickly collapses. To increase the service life, the protective coating in the form of paint has to be constantly updated. With a large length, it takes a lot of time and requires a considerable amount of paint. This problem has become less acute, since the new antiseptics that have recently appeared can extend the life of the fence, and also guarantee the durability of staining for several years. The term is different - from 2-3 years, to 5-7. It depends on the type of antiseptic impregnation and the manufacturer, but finding "long-playing" ones is not difficult: in any more or less large store.

Moreover, these impregnations do not paint over the texture of the tree: all the veins are visible. They just change color, usually to a darker one. Such a fence made of wood looks solid and rich. Even a simple picket fence, and even a difficult one, even more so.

What is important is that you can put up a wooden fence with your own hands alone, if necessary, even without the involvement of assistants. Another important thing: a significant part of the work - the preparation of wood - can be carried out not on the spot, but, say, in a garage or workshop. And start it long before the start of construction. For example, from autumn to spring, and the construction itself should be started already when the weather is warm.

Wood is a very plastic material and the simplest thing can be done so that it looks like a work of art. This is true for fences as well. If you wish, you can make such a “candy”, which is a pleasure to look at. designs wooden fences several.

Fence

The simplest is the picket fence. This is a set edged boards or strips of the same, as a rule, width, which are nailed vertically to two or more transverse rails.

Scheme of a wooden fence made of vertically nailed boards - picket fence

The shape of the top may differ. A 90° floor cut is the easiest option, but far from the best, and not only in terms of aesthetics. The top of such a fence, even painted, is exposed to intense moisture, as a result, the coating in this place is destroyed first. And the wood pores in the perpendicular cut remain open. Rain, fog, melting snow / ice are absorbed by them, which leads to the destruction of wood. To avoid this, cut the tops not at 90 degrees, but at 45 degrees. If you look at such a board in profile, then the top will be beveled (see the figure below).

The distance between two adjacent fences is chosen according to your desire. You can make a solid fence, fitting one close to the other, you can make it translucent, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm, or you can make it completely transparent - with a large distance equal to the width of the boards or even more. Such options are popular for internal fences, which are more designed to separate zones and mark boundaries than to protect from something. For outdoor fences facing the street, they usually choose a solid installation, maybe with a very small distance so that the boards do not “swell” in wet weather.

Sawn tops add variety. They can be sharpened in different ways - with a rounded top, in the form of peaks, triangles, trapezoids. All this in different options and combinations.

Rounded top - the most popular This is more of an openwork fence, but decorative - for sure Tops in the form of lilies - the fence will be beautiful Peaks and triangles - in combination and independently

Some even make truly works of art: a carved fence requires a lot of perseverance. The work is painstaking, but the result is worth it.

Carved fence slats - beauty Beauty - carved wooden fence

Make curly tops faster and easier with a template. Cut out a sample from a sheet of plywood, bring it to perfect condition. Then cut out all the rest according to this pattern. You can cut with a jigsaw or on a milling machine.

A jigsaw for such a case can be bought. All the same, even taking into account this expense item, it will turn out cheaper than buying ready-made carved pickets. The downside here is that it takes a lot of time, and the pickets turn out to be unequal: either the file will go a little to the right, then a little to the left. The edges then still have to be processed with sandpaper.

Buying a milling machine, if you don’t plan to use it later, is unprofitable. And those who already have one can buy cutters with a floating head and make a figured picket fence with it. The height of the cutting part of the cutter is equal to the thickness of the board that you will process, and the head rests against the template.

In both cases, you will have to somehow fix the template on the workpiece. This can be done with thin nails or by sticking double-sided tape on the template.

But if you approach the process creatively, then even from even thin planks you can make a beautiful wooden fence: nailing it at different angles.

The authors of this wooden fence made it even simpler: they only made the height non-linear, emphasizing the relief with a plank nailed on top. This, by the way, is the second way to significantly increase the life of a wooden fence - the plank blocks access for water to the most vulnerable open cross sections). Also, non-linearity is given by planks nailed to the surface in the form of frames, and the wood inside is painted in a lighter color. Agree, original.

Wooden fence "checkerboard" or "chess"

In fact, this is one of the subspecies of the picket fence. The boards are stuffed alternately on one side, then on the other side of the crossbar. It turns out an interesting three-dimensional view.

The principle of installing shtaketin in the fence "checkerboard" or "chess"

If you look at such a fence exactly opposite, it looks like a deaf one, if to the side, then at a certain angle some part of the yard will be visible through the gap. The degree of transparency is regulated by the entry of one bar after another. You can make it so that the visibility will be zero. For example, with a plank width of 10 cm, make the distance between them no more than 6 cm. Here, no matter how you look, nothing is visible. The disadvantage is the high consumption of wood. But the fences are very beautiful, especially in combination with brick or stone pillars and figuratively made tops.

Checkerboard on the plinth - such a fence looks gorgeous

They make horizontal fences from chessboards. But here you need to keep in mind that it is very convenient to climb on such a fence: boards are like steps. True, any fence is not such a serious obstacle. Rather, it is a protection from prying eyes than from serious assassination attempts.

Wooden fence - horizontal checkerboard

Such "chess" looks decent and solid. Pillars can be anything: metal, wood, stone, concrete. If metal poles are installed, they are made from a profiled thick-walled pipe (3 mm). Above ground level, from the front and back, they are sewn up with boards (to the pillars with bolts or self-tapping screws), which are larger than the width of the profile: they should protrude on the sides by 3-6 cm. Thus, we get guides into which the boards are inserted. The boards are then fastened from the inside to the sheathing of the pillars.

Fence "Herringbone"

Another type of horizontal fence is called a herringbone. It is named so because the boards are stacked close to one another, and with an overlap on the one below. In profile, it looks like a Christmas tree, as children draw it.

Wooden fences "herringbone" create a continuous covering

It is more difficult to climb up such a fence. Please note that there is a protective visor on top. It protects the most vulnerable part of the fence, greatly extending its life, as well as pushing back the time for the next painting. After all, usually the top and bottom of the coating is the most damaged. From below, this fence is protected by a plinth, from above - by a visor.

Wooden fences "blinds"

They differ from those described above in that the boards do not adjoin one another. They are fixed at an angle, but with some clearance. This type of fence does not create a solid wall and the yard can be viewed, although this will require you to sit down or even lie down - depending on the angle of inclination.

A fence called "blinds" - looking at its device, you will understand why

This type of fence is very uneconomical - wood consumption is usually high. The assembly is also difficult: fasten a bar (corner) under each board or cut a notch in the post.

But with such a construction, it is provided good ventilation site. This is important if the climate or terrain is humid. You can’t install a solid fence: there will be a puddle under it and the dirt in the yard will never dry out.

Wicker from the board - a beautiful fence

The fence made of boards bent between the pillars looks unusual. They are intertwined between the pillars like a traditional wattle fence. They only make it from long boards.

Fence "braid" from the board

Most often they are found in a horizontal version. There are fewer joints and bending long spans is easier.

There are also vertical braids. To give them a finished look, planks are nailed at the top and bottom - they both hold the edges of the boards and protect them from bad weather.

How to make such beauty, see the video. It's really easy, but it takes a lot of strength.

lattice fences

A wide variety of gratings are made from thin, and not very thin, slats: with different angles, frequency of slats, etc. These fences play a rather decorative role and are used either for indoor fencing - the waters of the thief, in the garden - or for the main entrance - to mark the borders, but not cover the beauty.

Fence made of wooden planks lattice “in a cage” Lattice fence made of boards - looks serious Double planks - such a lattice fence looks interesting

Photo of beautiful fences

You just wonder what beauty people can make from a piece of wood. Really beautiful. And some, while not very complex.

Maybe someone will be inspired by these photos of old wooden fences, they can be repeated ...

Disappearing beauty...

Cypress "Columnaris", thuja (Thuja) and pear

3. "Wavy" fence

After pruning, the plants produce new shoots, which means that you can experiment with the shape of the "wall". For example, instead of the usual rectangle, you can grow ... a green wave!



Wavy fence - quite reliable protection

Quite reliable protection and chat with good neighbors you can through the green window!

4. Blooming wall

Do you want to surround your garden with floral splendor? Soberly assess whether the game is worth the candle. Most bloom 2-3 weeks. And such plants will need more space, since narrow walls cannot be formed from them. How to compromise decorative types, which perfectly tolerate a haircut, such as spirea or hawthorn.

Blooming wall: hawthorn grows along the perimeter of the site, and its flowers successfully set off the green array

However, ideally from beautifully flowering shrubs it is better to form free-growing hedges, giving the plants enough space to fully develop.

In our market you can pick up planting material for a flowering hedge, take a look at the selection.

A hedge made of beech forest covers the site only in the corners

At what distance from each other to plant bushes depends on the size and type of a particular representative of the flora. If the earthen ball is wrapped with a mesh of synthetic material, it must be removed. If the mesh is made of decaying fabric, it is enough to cut it at the top.

After planting, water the plants well and shorten the shoots strongly so that they branch well.

Ready-made options for site fencing

Do you want to create an elegant and functional protection for your relaxation corner? Build a green wall! Most cheap option- and wait a few years until your "fence" grows to the desired height. For the impatient, there is another - on sale you can find ready-made hedges. Such a “wall” is quite expensive, but in this case you won’t have to wait. Planted and done.

As an alternative: on the border of the site, you can put a regular fence and twine it, for example.

On the border of the site, you can put a regular fence and twine it with climbing plants

By the way, these representatives of the flora will help to isolate themselves from curious neighbors on the terrace or balcony: plant a fast-growing one in a large box with a trellis - and in a few months you will have an excellent screen!

What varieties of boxwood are suitable for hedges?

For a low hedge, which plays the role of a frame for or, you can choose 'Faulkner', 'Herrenhausen', 'Rococo', variegated 'Golden Dream' and other varieties small-leaved boxwood. But the popular ‘Suffruticosa’ and ‘Blauer Heinz’ are not the most the best way because they are very fond of moths. In addition, these varietal plants often get sick.

Small-leaved boxwood "Rococo"

For high hedge tall hardy new breeds such as 'National' or 'John Baldwin' are great.

How to protect boxwood?
Plants planted in well-ventilated areas are more resistant to attack. Try to avoid, water the "pet" at the very base and cut off the excess once a year.

Did you find moths on the leaves of caterpillars? Process the bush. If there are signs of fungal diseases, cut off the affected parts of the branches to healthy wood, or simply remove the entire plant. It is advisable to use only if you process the bushes every 3 weeks.

How to defeat the boxwood moth?
Are there any types of boxwood that the moth ignores? Most often, this pest suffers boxwood evergreen(Buxus sempervirens) and its hybrids. Oriental views such as boxwood chinese(Buxus sinica) and small-leaved boxwood(Buxus microphylla), are less susceptible to moth attack (Cydalima).

Overview of the most suitable plants

In addition to boxwood, you have a wide range of plants suitable for making hedges.

Advantages: The plant tolerates pruning well, sun and shade tolerant. The tree grows well in almost any soil. In autumn, its foliage turns yellow.

Disadvantages: fast growing, so it should be cut twice a year. Since maple is a deciduous plant, in winter it does not cover the area well from prying eyes, and besides, it is often struck.

General information: annual growth - 30-40 cm, 3-4 plants/p. m, optimal height hedge - 1.5-4 m.

Benefits: thorny branches will not allow people or animals to enter the garden, but they will provide protection to the birds. In full sun, the red-leaved variety ‘Atropurpurea’ (Thunberg’s barberry, #2 in the collage above) takes on a more intense coloration. Even in winter, dropping all the leaves, he covers the site due to the density of the branches.

Disadvantages: planting and cutting shrubs should only be done with gloves.

General information: annual growth -15-25 cm, 3-4 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 0.5-1.5 m.

You can read more about barberry and its varieties in articles and.

Advantages: grows well on any soil, both in the sun and in the shade. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow and do not fall off until young shoots appear. Even after heavy pruning, it grows back quickly and is also relatively cheap.

Disadvantages: it is desirable to cut it twice a year. In winter it is not as dense as in the rest of the year. The hornbeam is sometimes damaged by the moth.

General information: annual growth - 20-40 cm, 3-4 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 1-4 m.

Benefits: Thanks to its evergreen leaves, it reliably covers the garden even in winter. Plants of such hardy varieties as ‘Herbergii’, ‘Etna’ and ‘Novita’ have proven themselves well. You only need to prune once a year.

Disadvantages: may suffer from winter frosts in sunny and windy weather. The fruits are poisonous and can be prevented by cutting the plant shortly after flowering.

General information: annual growth - 20-40 cm, 2-3 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 1-2 m.

Two types of laurel cherries - medicinal and Lusitanian - and their decorative forms are described in the material.

Benefits: evergreen coniferous plant with different colors of needles depending on the variety ('Alumii'-blue-green, 'Columnaris' - blue, 'Stardust' - yellow). More shade-tolerant and less prone to fungal diseases than western thuja. Covers the "rear" all year round. V winter time seeds serve as food for birds.

Disadvantages: does not tolerate pruning to old wood.

General information: annual growth -10-20 cm, 2-3 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 1.5-4 m.

Benefits: Both native European larch (L. decidua, pictured) and Kaempfer larch (L. kaempferi) have beautiful young shoots, bright yellow color in autumn, and attractive buds. It's hardy conifer tree Prefers full sun. Grows well after pruning.

Disadvantages: larch sheds needles for the winter.

General information: annual growth - 25-50 cm, 2-3 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 1.5-4 m.

Read more about the nuances of planting and care in the article.

Advantages: the leaves of both the green-leaved forest beech (F. sylvatica) and its red-leaved variety (F. sylvatica f. purpurea, pictured) remain on the branches for a long time, so that hedge from this plant and in winter can boast of relative density. It tolerates pruning and shading.

Disadvantages: May suffer from drought in summer. Pruning is shown twice a year. More demanding than a hornbeam.

General information: annual growth - 30-50 cm, 3-4 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 1-4 m.

Advantages: shrub in June - July strewn with white inflorescences, and in autumn - with black fruits. Well-branching common privet (L. vulgare) variety ‘Atrovirens’ is excellent for hedges. The privet oval-leaved (L. ovalifolium) ‘Aureum’ has leaves with a yellow border.

Flaws: leaves fall prematurely in severe frost. As a rule, you need to prune 2 times a year.

General information: annual growth - 20-40 cm, 3-4 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 1-2 m.

Benefits: The evergreen is increasingly used for hedges. Photinia Fraser (Ph. fraseri) ‘Red Robin’ with bright red young shoots is perfect for this purpose. It tolerates drought and heat well, prefers sunny places and is undemanding to soils.

Disadvantages: insufficiently frost-resistant, therefore it is suitable only for regions with a warm climate.

General information: annual growth - 20-30 cm, 2-3 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 1-2 m.

Benefits: A coniferous plant that grows well in both sun and shade. After a strong pruning, it quickly overgrows with young shoots, and is distinguished by its endurance. excellent substitute for boxwood in low hedges. It is enough to trim once a season. Reliably hides the site from prying eyes all year round.

Disadvantages: slow growing. The bark, needles and seeds are very poisonous.

General information: annual growth - 10-20 cm, 3-4 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 0.5-2 m.

Pros: An excellent low cost candidate for a yard fence. This coniferous plant is evergreen, so that the hedge from it remains dense in winter. Beautiful varieties- ‘Smaragd’ (slender) and ‘Sunkist’ (yellow). You need to prune once a year.

Disadvantages: does not tolerate heavy pruning, is prone to fungal diseases, the needles turn brown with a lack of moisture. The plant is poisonous.

General information: annual growth - 10-30 cm, 2-3 plants/p. m, the optimal height of the hedge is 1.5-4 m.

Advantages: bamboo of this species grows in a bushy manner, does not need fencing with curb tape. Stems with evergreen leaves look very elegant. An excellent alternative to traditional hedges for sun or partial shade areas.

Disadvantages: due to cold and drought, the leaves curl. It should be cut twice a year - in early spring, before the appearance of young shoots, and in summer.

General information: annual growth - up to 2 m (new stems), 2-3 plants / p. m, optimal height. and. - 1.5-2.5 m.

Of course, the choice of plants depends heavily on climate zone. For example, cherry laurel with glossy leaves will provide reliable shelter from prying eyes all year round, as well as photinia, which is gaining more and more popularity among gardeners. The only "but": both of these plants can suffer from frost in severe winters. If you live in a region with a cold climate, it is better to immediately choose hardy breeds such as yew and hornbeam.

If you spend little time on winter and you do not need a dense shelter for all seasons, the best solution would be to plant deciduous species, such as forest beech or field maple. In the spring they will delight with juicy greenery, in the summer they will cover the "rear" with dense foliage, and in the fall they will turn into bright colors - this is something that evergreens certainly cannot boast of.