Installation of suspended plastic stretch ceiling. Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels with your own hands: step by step instructions

23.06.2020

Suspended plastic ceiling is one of the most practical and hygienic interior decoration. The material from which plastic panels are made, PVC has glossy surface on which microbes and harmful bacteria have practically no opportunity to multiply. In addition, this material is environmentally friendly and does not emit an unpleasant odor.

The listed qualities of plastic often determine the areas of their application. As a rule, these are kitchens, bathrooms, balconies and loggias. Plastic is practically not afraid of moisture and frost. Installing a plastic false ceiling with your own hands is very simple and this work will not cause difficulties even for a beginner.

Before you begin to familiarize yourself with the installation secrets, familiarize yourself with the sequence of operations. The list is simple, but you cannot rearrange the items. It looks like this:

 Calculation of materials of the suspended structure
 Marking the level of the future ceiling
 Installation of battens and embedded parts for lighting devices
 Installing the start profile
 Facing PVC ceiling panels

Installing plastic ceilings will require a tricky set of tools that every household master probably has: an impact drill or puncher, a level for marking the horizontal plane of the ceiling (water or laser), a tape measure, a pencil, a ruler, a paint chopping thread, a saw for metal and a hammer.

Important to remember! To speed up the cladding process, it is recommended to use an electric screwdriver with a magnetic cross head.

Calculation of materials for the ceiling

To calculate a plastic suspended ceiling, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe existing ceiling. To do this, multiply the width of the room by its length. You can measure with a tape measure with the help of one partner, which will be needed for other operations.

It is necessary to add 5-10% of the total area to the figure obtained. This is the necessary margin to compensate for the costs of cutting PVC plates. Most running size this is a width of 25 cm, a length of 3 m. However, other sizes can be found on sale.

Can be used as a frame wooden beam 40 x 40 mm or 40 x 60 mm. If the climate is quite humid, then you can use the UD-27 wall or gypsum ceiling profile and the CD-60 load-bearing ceiling profile. They are made of galvanized metal and are not afraid of corrosion and deformation from excessive moisture.

The number of UD-27 profiles is equal to the perimeter of the room. The bearing ceiling profile TsD-60 is placed at intervals of 600 mm from each other. 300 mm recede from the edge of the wall and calculate the number of pieces. Usually the width of the room in meters is divided by 0.6. The length of the profiles is 2.5-3m.

To make suspended plastic ceilings look beautiful as a guide or starting profile, you can use a PVC profile with a decorative plinth. It can be made in a monolithic form, or the plinth can be attached to the profile groove separately. Its amount is also equal to the perimeter of the ceiling plus 3-5%.

In order for the joining of the plinth in the corners to look aesthetically beautiful, the plinth can be cut in a joiner's miter box at an angle of 45 degrees or you can buy ready-made plastic corners. The frame is fastened to the ceiling with dowels at intervals of 50-60 cm. Galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer 25 mm long are used to fix the PVC plates to the ceiling.

Installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels

Installing plastic on the ceiling begins with markings. First determine the horizontal plane of the future ceiling. To do this, use a laser or hydraulic level. The minimum height of the ceiling can be lowered by the thickness of the beam or metal profile.

If more is required, then the galvanized TsD-60 ceiling profile is hung on straight or U-shaped hangers for plasterboard ceilings. Under the timber, you can put wooden dies.

The laser level is fixed on the wall with a dowel, stepping back from the existing ceiling the required distance. The device is installed in the horizon using its standard bubble levels. When turned on, the laser beam will mark the horizontal plane of the future ceiling on the walls.

Using a paint thread with blue, you need to “recapture” this level on the walls. After that, the axes of the ceiling profiles are marked on the ceiling. To do this, you can use a ruler, chalk and a building corner of 90 degrees.

According to the line marked on the walls with dowels at an interval of 0.5 m, the wall profile UD-27 is mounted. P-suspensions are attached to the ceiling with an interval of 60 cm with dowels. Their perforated legs are lowered down at an angle of 90 degrees. Carrier profiles are attached to them with 12 mm galvanized self-tapping screws.

If it is planned to install an overhead chandelier, an embedded part is mounted on the plastic ceiling on the existing ceiling.

You can make it from a piece of plywood and straight hangers, fixing them in the corners. Having bent the legs to the required height, the part is attached with dowels to. Do not forget to drill a hole in the center of the board and bring the lighting wire into it.

A guide profile along the perimeter is attached to the wall-mounted UD-27 profile with self-tapping screws with a press washer. The plate for plastic ceilings is made in such a way that there is a spike on one side of it, and a groove on the other. The first plate is cut to size and the spike is cut off. After that, it is brought into the guide grooves of the starting profile with a cut spike against the wall and pushed all the way.

With self-tapping screws with a press washer, the first is attached to the ceiling profiles in the upper wall of the groove. The second trimmed plate is inserted with a spike into the groove of the first. In order to reduce the joint between the second panel, they tap the heel of the palm. It is also convenient to do this with a hammer through a wooden plate.

The whole process is repeated until the last panel is laid into the plastic ceilings. It may have to be cut not only in length, but also in width. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the cut, it is necessary to drill holes in the front layer of the plate. It should be the diameter of the screw head.

The self-tapping screws will go in and fix the last plastic ceiling panel. Do not forget to drill a hole for the wire in the plate on which the overhead lamp will be located. The plastic ceiling is ready and if you still have questions, then the video on installing plastic ceilings will help answer them.

If a few decades ago, the decoration of ceilings in most cases was limited to whitewashing or wallpapering, then today the base can be sheathed quite unusual materials, for example, plastic. How to install plastic panels on the ceiling, we will understand below.

Advantages and disadvantages of ceilings made of plastic panels

Finishing the surface of the ceiling with polyvinyl chloride has many advantages:

Irregularity masking. Installation does not require perfect alignment of the base coat. Panels will hide all defects.
Convenient installation of communications. Pipes, wires and ventilation ducts freely placed in the interceiling space.
Various lighting options. From the ceiling plastic panels with your own hands you can install original lamps or lighting.
Easy to install. It is much easier to equip a PVC structure than suspended or stretch ceilings.
light weight. The lightness of the material allows you to mount it on a longitudinal frame, which significantly reduces the cost of profiles.
Possibility of additional insulation. During the installation process, hydro-, noise- and heat-insulating material can be placed in the interceiling space.
Reuse. If necessary, the panels can be dismantled and reinstalled.
moisture resistance. The material is absolutely not afraid of water, and therefore it does not warp, does not become moldy, and does not deform when moisture enters. Because of this, it is he who is chosen for equipping the ceiling of plastic panels in the bathroom, kitchen, balcony and loggia.
Ease of maintenance. The plastic is resistant to most detergents without abrasives, therefore it can be easily cleaned of almost any contaminants.
Relative cheapness. PVC panels are relatively low cost and will cost significantly less than drywall or stretch counterparts.
Durability. With proper maintenance, plastic will last about 15 years.

As for the disadvantages of this method of finishing ceilings, here are:

simple view. The ceiling of plastic panels looks pretty budget.
Limited types of structures. Using PVC, you can only make a single-level design without bends.
Reducing the height of the room. A suspended ceiling made of plastic will make the room lower by at least the width of the profile.
Interpanel seams. Even with correct installation seamless plastic lining, the joints of the panels will still be visible.

After weighing the pros and cons of this method of finishing, you can make the final decision whether to install plastic ceilings in the room.

Varieties of plastic panels for the ceiling

Today, this material is so common in the construction industry that it is used for sheathing various surfaces.

According to the type of purpose, the panels are:

wall. They are thicker and heavier.
Ceiling. They differ in relatively low weight and lower strength characteristics.

By type of connection, the following varieties are distinguished:

Seamless. The joints of such panels are visible only at close range.
Embossed. The surface looks as if sheathed with clapboard.
With chamfer (rust). They look like seamless patterns, but they have a decorative hole at the ends.

Panels on the market are presented in three standard sizes:

Lining - 300*10/300*12.5 cm;
Seamless with a length of 260-300 cm and a width of 15-50 cm;
Squares (rectangles) - 30*30 - 100*100 cm;
Leafy with a width of 80-203 cm, a length of 150-405 cm.

According to the type of coating, PVC panels are divided into:

Glossy. Lacquering makes the surface mirror-like.
Matte. Without additional processing. A budget option.
colored. In cheaper models, the pattern is applied by transferring from thermal film, in expensive ones - by direct printing.

For mounting a ceiling made of plastic panels, ceiling, seamless, sheet models are most often used.

Among the variety of PVC panels provided on the market, it is very easy to get confused, so you need to know the rules for choosing high-quality material:

The panel must be geometrically correct, with a clearly marked pattern and a smooth surface.
No stiffeners should be visible from the outside. At the same time, keep in mind that the strength of the structure directly depends on their number.
When choosing panels, take two parts and dock them. High-quality products should fit snugly to each other, easily dock and not form gaps at the joints.
Try pressing or bending the material. Even though light and thin, ceiling panels should not be too fragile.
Smell the material. A quality product does not emit a strong odor.

You should not save on materials, because high-quality panels will last much longer and will fully pay for themselves over time. Be sure to check the certification of products and make purchases from reliable suppliers so as not to become the owner of a low-quality product.

To do right choice among the widest range of textures and colors, consider the following nuances:

You can visually increase the height of the room by equipping a light ceiling. A dark coating, on the contrary, will reduce the height.
The glossy surface visually deepens the ceiling, making it more remote and the room voluminous.
Do not overload the interior with more than three colors in the decoration of the ceiling.
Imitation of wood or stone on plastic looks primitive (especially if seams are visible), so it is better to refuse texture patterns.

At the same stage, think about the type of fixtures used and how to mask the extreme ends of the panels.

Do-it-yourself ceiling installation from plastic panels

The design consists of a frame fixed on the base surface and sheathed with PVC. To do the work yourself, you need to prepare the ceiling, make markings, draw up a drawing, calculate the amount required material, build a frame and fix the panels on it. At each stage, many technological nuances should be taken into account, and it is important to approach each process responsibly in order to ultimately be satisfied with the work.

Preparatory work before installing the ceiling of plastic panels

Significant preparation or alignment of the base ceiling with such a finish is not required, but some work is still worth doing:

We free the room from large-sized furniture, remove curtains, cornices, paintings and a chandelier, insulating the ends of the wires.
Lay on the floor polyethylene film and close the doorway with it.
We remove the ceiling trim and dismantle, if necessary, the old wiring.
We putty large cracks and holes.
Prime the surface with an antifungal compound.

If a suspended mounting method is planned (using metal hangers), then the preparation of the base surface can be considered complete. If it is supposed to be installed in a hemmed way (fixing the profiles directly to the ceiling), then it is additionally necessary to trim the surface with gypsum putty.

Calculation of material for the ceiling of plastic panels

In the course of work, we will need panels and components directly. Materials must be purchased with a margin so that in case of unforeseen circumstances the installation process is not delayed. To correctly determine the exact number of fasteners, components and panels, we first measure the length of all four walls. Note that opposite walls also need to be measured separately as they may not be level.

We carry out calculations taking into account the following rules:

We divide the ceiling area by the area of one panel, add 15-20% to the result obtained and round up. This figure will be an indicator of the required number of PVC panels.
Counting Quantity ceiling profile and suspensions, keep in mind that it is mounted in increments of 0.5-0.6 meters.
The length of the desired starting profile is equal to the perimeter of the room plus 10 cm.
The number of dowels will be needed with the calculation of 1 pc / 0.5 meters of the profile, and self-tapping screws - 1 pc / 0.5 meters of the panel length.
To calculate the amount of plastic profile, divide the perimeter of the room by three (standard length of products) and round up.

In addition, you may need an H-profile to connect the ends of the panels, plastic corners for external and internal joining.

In residential premises, the crate can also be made from wood, but for mounting the ceiling of plastic panels in the kitchen, balcony or bathroom, it is better to use metal, galvanized ones.

Marking the ceiling before installing plastic panels

For the convenience of work, prepare in advance a tape measure, a paint cord and a hydraulic level.

We markup in the following order:

We measure the height of all corners and the center of the room.
In the lowest corner from the base ceiling, we measure the height of the interceiling space.
With the help of the level, we make marks in the same plane in all corners, we screw temporary self-tapping screws into them.
Between the two temporary fasteners we stretch the paint cord and beat off the line of the plastic coating. Repeat the procedure for all walls.
On opposite walls near the ceiling we make marks in increments of 0.5 meters.
We stretch the paint cord between the marked points and beat off the fastening lines of the supporting profiles.
We mark the places of attachment of suspensions.

If a hemming technique for fastening panels is assumed, then marking on the wall is not done, but base ceiling pre-aligned.

How to make a frame for the ceiling of plastic panels

When mounting the frame for suspended ceiling mounting, we use metal suspensions. Before starting work, you must make sure that there are no hidden wiring in the places where the holes are drilled. To do this, you need to invite an electrician or use special detectors. Failure to do so may damage the power supply and even cause injury.

We carry out the work according to the following instructions:

We attach a guide profile according to the marking level on the wall. It must be fixed on all walls, except for the one where the last part will be installed. This is necessary for ease of docking and fitting.
At the marked places, we attach suspensions to the dowels and bend their ends.
We insert the ceiling profile into the guide and fix it on the hangers with self-tapping screws.
We align each element along a stretched nylon thread.

Frame for false ceiling attached without hangers to a pre-leveled base surface as follows:

We attach the supporting profile along the marked lines on the ceiling. In the process, it is necessary to monitor the tightest fit of the parts to the wall. However, if the coating was previously leveled, then cracks should not form.
We attach the L-shaped profile to the walls along the perimeter of the room at the level of the ceiling profiles fixed on the ceiling.
We attach the corners at the joints.

At this stage, it is necessary to lay all communications and draw conclusions for fixtures. The wiring must be laid in a heat-resistant corrugated sleeve.

Please note that with hemming fastening, the interceiling space is not enough for mounting spotlights.

How to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels

Plastic panels must be fixed across the location of the profiles, the installation is performed as follows:

If necessary, cut off the part of the desired length by 0.5 cm less than the width of the room. To do this, you can use a jigsaw, a hacksaw with small teeth, a sharp knife.
Sanding the edges sandpaper and remove the film from the panel.
We insert one side into the starting profile, bend it slightly and insert the second edge.
We move the element close to the wall. As a result, the first panel will be fixed in three profiles.
We attach the remaining side with self-tapping screws with a wide hat to the crate in the groove.
We insert the second part in the same way into the opposite guides and move it tightly to the previous panel.
We sheathe the entire ceiling using this technique. The edge element will need to be cut to the appropriate width before installation.
We install decorative plinths on the starting profile along the perimeter of the room. In the place where the last panel is attached, it can be glued on liquid nails.
We cut out holes for mounting lamps with a drill with a crown.

Such a ceiling finish can be done at any stage of the repair, both before and after finishing the walls and floor, since this work is not “dirty”.

In order for the design to turn out to be aesthetically attractive, strong and durable, we recommend that you take into account the following recommendations in the process:

Plastic panels are fixed on a longitudinal frame, but if you plan to hang a chandelier, then at the place of its installation you will need to reinforce the crate with jumpers and fix the anchor hook to the base ceiling in advance. Jumpers must be cut from the ceiling profile and attached with crab connectors.
For a beautiful joining of skirting boards at the corners, they must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. For convenience, you can use the miter box.
If small gaps remain after the installation of the last panel, they can be blown out with an acrylic-based sealant.
It is better to attach a foam skirting board to uneven walls, since plastic products will form gaps.
The highest quality PVC products are produced by Italian manufacturers. The warranty period for such panels has almost doubled, and the cost is 20-25% higher.
Plastic is not combustible, but under the influence of high temperatures (80-90 degrees) it can melt, therefore it is better not to install high-power lighting fixtures in these ceilings. The best option is LED lighting.
Glue panels liquid nails on the ceiling is absolutely impossible. Firstly, this is not a sufficiently reliable fixation, and secondly, there must be a ventilation gap between the base surface and the plastic coating.

These simple tips help avoid errors during installation. Read the instructions carefully and make a plan of action before starting work, so as not to forget anything.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels - look at the video:

Plastic ceilings are the best solution for bathrooms, kitchens and other rooms in which the practicality and functionality of decoration come first. Our recommendations will help you figure out how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. Following the instructions, you will do all the work yourself, from preparing the base surface to installing decorative skirting boards.

Plastic panels are increasingly being used today as finishing material for walls and ceilings. Their popularity constantly tends to grow, which is due to good operational characteristics, aesthetic appearance and easy holding installation work. Another significant advantage of panels of this type can be called an affordable level of price indicators.

How to choose plastic panels

Plastic panels can be used without any special fears in rooms with high humidity — .

This material is impact resistant aggressive environment and fluctuations in temperature indicators - suitable for. Moreover, their use prevents the formation of mold and mildew, which is important for. When choosing PVC panels, length and width indicators should be taken into account. The surface of the material can be lacquered, glossy or matte.

Another significant advantage of PVC panels is the absence of the need for careful leveling of the surface, as well as the ability to hide individual communication elements under the frame.

Photo: finishing the bathroom with plastic panels

When choosing this variation of the finishing material, you should focus on the fact that plastic panels for walls and ceilings have certain differences. The former have higher weights. In addition, they have a more rigid structure.

Option to finish the bathroom with plastic panels

Plastic panels designed for finishing the ceiling are lighter. This is due to the need for installation work at height. The minimum weight indicators greatly facilitate this procedure.

Finishing the walls and ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels

Along with this, plastic ceiling panels are more fragile. When performing installation work, you should be very careful, as you can easily damage the surface of the finishing material.

Wall decoration with decorative plastic panels

At standard thickness 5-10 mm wide panels can vary from 25 to 50 cm. The length varies from 2.7 to 3 m. When choosing a finishing material, you should pay attention to the quality of the color of the panel, the uniformity of the drawing and the correctness of the shapes. The quality of the stiffeners should also be taken into account. They should not stick out from the outside. The surface of the material should not contain characteristic chips and cracks.

The level of resistance of the material to deformation will depend on the quality of the density and flexibility of the PVC panel. If such a panel is tightly compressed, then no traces of mechanical damage should remain on it.

Necessary tools and materials

When performing work on installing plastic panels on the wall and ceiling, at the initial stage, you should select the necessary tools and materials. To resolve an issue related to installation, you may need:

PVC panels;
drill;
dowel;
cord and pencil;
perforator;
ladder.

This should also add moldings and corners. By using the latter, you can achieve the most even markup. Otherwise, when installing plastic panels on walls or ceilings, certain difficulties may arise.

Photo: plastic panels for bathroom tiles

Plastic panels are selected depending on the features of the layout of the room. AT small room it is advisable to use narrow panels. Under the condition of finishing a more spacious room, it is best to resort to the use of wider products.

Photo: ceiling decoration with built-in lamps with PVC panels

Self-tapping screws can be used instead of dowels. They are necessary if the frame will have a metal version. Dowels are relevant only if a wooden frame is used. It should also be noted here that the wooden base cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity. This is due to the fact that such material is subject to decay, as well as negative influence fungi and mold. For this reason, in the kitchen and bathroom, the use of a wooden frame is not a viable solution.

Construction of battens for walls and ceilings

The frame device is a primary issue that should be resolved when installing plastic panels on a wall or ceiling. It was noted above that a wooden or metal variation of the frame can be used as the basis. The optimal distance between the individual elements of such a base is equivalent to 50 cm. In this way, it is possible to compensate for the unevenness of the surface of the ceiling or walls. The recommended sequence of actions will look like this:

Carrying out markup.
Installation of profiles around the entire perimeter of the surface.
Installation of transverse profiles.
Installation of the basis for fastening PVC panels.
Panel installation.

During the marking, you should first determine the smallest height of the ceiling. From this point, two lines must be drawn on the walls. To do this, you can resort to using a cord painted with chalk. The correctness of the markup is checked using the building level.

After marking, profiles should be installed around the entire perimeter of the surface. The fixation of these elements should be carried out without the formation of voids and gaps. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to achieve maximum reliability of the entire structure.

Profile frame for walls

After installing the transverse profiles, you should solve the problem, which consists in mounting the base for fastening the panels. For fastening plastic profiles self-tapping screws can be used.

Profile frame on the ceiling

When installing a metal variation of the frame, you should be as careful as possible. The total weight of the structure will be large enough, so it is necessary to ensure high reliability of its fastening. Mounting hangers to concrete floor can be carried out by using special dowels with a cap on the sleeve. Ordinary dowels will fail, as concrete is characterized by the presence of internal voids.

Attaching the first panel to the frame

Holes in the metal profile can be drilled simultaneously with the preparation of holes in the wall. Provided that the frame is mounted on ceramic tiles it is advisable to resort to the use of a perforator only if adhesive mixture dried up completely. In a different scenario, cracks may appear on the surface of the tile.

Features of mounting panels

Or a wall, it is best to start by determining the optimal length of the material. It is recommended to provide a solution to this issue in advance. To cut plastic panels, you can resort to using a regular hacksaw.

There is nothing difficult in the installation procedure of such panels. Previously, they are placed in the profile, and then fastened with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to start the installation of plastic panels from the corner of the room. This applies to both the ceiling and the wall. It is also very important to monitor the quality and evenness of the installation of the first element. It should be strictly perpendicular to the wall or ceiling. Otherwise, the panel will not be able to snap into the groove and will need to be removed and reinstalled.

Special crate for plastic panels with fasteners

The edges of the plastic panels should go into the slats. The last detail is adjusted to the optimal distance to the wall. If necessary, you can cut the panel with a regular hacksaw.

Advice! Before performing work related to the installation of plastic panels on a ceiling or wall, it is recommended that you first take care of installing various elements of communication systems. They are able to mask water pipes, electrical wiring or heating pipes well.

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, plaid, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling of plastic panels is usually made plain. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - then small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - when frosted ceiling it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount Wall panels to the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, so the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same strips, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because appearance the surface is very similar.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

On device false ceiling assemble the frame from the guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the strips or profiles first around the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - spacing.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fix it on the screws (brackets). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with an ordinary drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done immediately, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. After trying it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sagging, which are formed due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth to a shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

Despite the variety of types of suspended ceilings, such as plasterboard, stretch or armstrong, plastic panel ceilings have not lost their popularity to this day, due to their low cost and ease of installation.

Basically, plastic panels are used for mounting plastic ceilings in bathrooms, kitchens, balconies or loggias, filling stations, but also for wall panels and sheathing of communication systems, sewers and water pipes leaving an inspection hatch to control taps and water meters. The use of panels for large ceilings is not very advisable, since such a ceiling does not look aesthetically pleasing due to the limited panel length of 3 meters, there are also 6 meters, but it is not always possible to bring them into the room. Because of this, it is necessary to add a docking H-profile, which does not completely match the color of the panels and stands out strongly against the general background.

Do-it-yourself installation of panels begins with the assembly of the frame to which they will be attached, the frame can be made of wood or metal profiles that are used in the installation of drywall. Better to use metal profiles, since they are more even, unlike a board or a bar.

Frame assembly materials:

profile UD;
CD profile;
suspensions;
dowel with a diameter of 6 mm;
self-tapping screws for metal with a press washer 4.2x13 mm "fleas".

Minimum set of tools for installation on a concrete ceiling:

perforator;
screwdriver;
metal scissors;
hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
water level;
drill bit 6 mm.

You may also need an upholstery cord and a 2.5-3 mm drill, a drywall crown, a miter box, silicone.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic panels

If the ceiling is not hidden wiring, it must be placed in corrugated pipes to prevent possible ignition.

Before installing the profiles, it is necessary to mark the ceiling to which the ceiling will be lowered, taking into account the height of the UD profile of 45 mm and the height of the starting profile of 8-10 mm, this is especially important for balconies, since the final height of the false ceiling overhang will block access to opening balcony windows.

I set the marks in the next step, you need to transfer them with the help of a ruler from bottom to top by 8-10 mm, depending on the height of the starting Elk profile.

After marking, the installation of UD profiles is carried out. The profile must be leaned against the wall so that its lower part is at the mark, then using a puncher equipped with a drill bit, we drill the profile together with the wall to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10 mm. After drilling the first hole, you can hammer in the dowel, which is convenient if you work alone.

The next step is the installation of suspensions, in order to determine their location, you need to put marks on the UD profile, since in the future a CD profile is attached to the suspensions, then the marks are applied based on its location. The CD profile is mounted perpendicular to the length of the plastic panels. Having determined the direction of the plastic panels, we make a mark on the UD profile perpendicularly every 50 cm.

Next, we insert the CD profiles cut to the required length into the UD profile and fasten the suspensions to the ceiling with dowels, then we connect the suspension with the CD profile with self-tapping screws, if the profile span is large, then we check the level or pull the cord so that the frame is on the same level. At the end, we connect UD and CD with self-tapping screws.

If will be used wooden frame, it is desirable to treat it with an antifungal agent.

When the frame is ready, we fix the starting Elku profile or the fillet ceiling plinth or F-profile.

Professionals advise first fixing 3 guide profiles, and glue the last one after joining all the panels. You can mount 4 “Elks” at once, but then, due to poor pressure, a small gap may form between the last and previous panel, plus this method is a quick installation without the use of liquid nails.

Depending on your choice, whether this is a starting profile or a fillet, the sequence of further work depends.

If the starting profile is selected, then the first 3 are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the last one is fastened with liquid nails, otherwise all 4 are fastened with self-tapping screws.

If this is a fillet, then all 4 or more can be fixed on liquid nails, and the latter is attached at the end, taking into account that her “tongue” is cut off, see the video for more details.

The same can be applied to the F-profile.

I would like to note that no matter which version of the guide you choose, it can be fixed in any way convenient for you, with self-tapping screws or liquid nails, staples or nails on wood.

Laying the first row

We cut the PVC panel 5 mm less than required to facilitate installation.

We put one edge of the panel into the PVC guide. To start the second edge, you need to slightly bend the panel down.

We fasten the panel to the profile with a “flea” self-tapping screw. On a wooden frame, you can use an ordinary drywall screw.

We insert the second panel and press down so that the lock snaps into place.

Installation of the last plastic panel on the ceiling

There are several ways to pin the last panel:

1. The easiest way is to cut the panel 5-7 mm less in width, first slide it into the guide, and then push it into reverse side until the lock clicks.

2. Glue the last panel to the profiles on liquid nails together with the L or F profile, or in the case of a fillet, the panel is glued first, and the fillet with the “tongue” cut off on it. More details about last option see video.

Fixtures for PVC

We make holes for recessed fixtures or ventilation using a drywall crown dressed on a screwdriver or drill.

How to make corners?

It is not necessary to cut corners on the L or F profile, they are not very noticeable. But for fillets you need a miter box and strong nerves if you are a beginner. After the installation is completed, we cover the gaps with silicone, watch the video.

In order not to resort to buying a miter box, you can purchase corners for PFC fillets, they are shown in the photo below.