Shtapka window plastic. What are wooden glazing beads, how to make and install them What is a glazing bead

All photos from the article

The last stage of glazing is the installation of glazing beads, which can be made not only from wood, but also from plastic. It would seem that such a simple and inexpensive window element, but how much benefit it brings. For example, it removes moisture from the glass, preventing it from getting on the main frame, and also insulates the room by closing the gaps between the glass and the frame. Today we will look at wooden glazing beads for windows made of wood and PVC.

You will learn:

• what it is;
• how they differ from each other;
• how to properly install and manufacture.

What is commonly referred to as a bead

So it is customary to call a rail made of wood or PVC, having a small cross section, where one plane is designed to remove moisture. They can mainly be found as fastening glasses in door and window frames.

If you remember, earlier in this place there was always a putty that did not let moisture through, but now it is practically not used. A silicone sealant came to replace it, which has proven itself both from the inside and especially from the outside.

Tip: use a colorless sealant in your work, which is almost invisible from the outside, like colored or pure white.

Kinds

Consider two main options that can be used for wooden windows, it's from:

wood

Usually used in individual and civil buildings. They are made most often from coniferous trees. Although, they can be from larch, and even exotic ones. Trading networks offer products 2-3 m long. The profile of the product is more conservative than that of plastic.

PVC

Differs in ease, reliability, plasticity and durability concerning wooden. Does not require painting prior to installation. Washes off dirt and dust quickly. It is usually sold by a trading network with products 4 m long, it can be offered individually or in packs of several dozen pieces. Has several ways of fastening. Plastic glazing beads for wooden windows are more diverse. The dimensions of the sides depend on the thickness: double-glazed window; glass; sandwich. They can be 5-30 mm.

Tip: if you need to get a rounding on one of the faces, go through its radius beforehand.

In this case, the manufacturing cost will be 5-10 times lower than if you buy the product in a store or on the market. Just keep in mind that the wood must be dry and not have knots, otherwise the glazing bead on them will break.

Tip: paint should be applied to the product before installing it on the window.

Installation

Prepare:

• tube with silicone;
• construction pistol;
• nails, preferably finishing;
• lightweight hammer.

Process:

1. Cut off the spout from the tube to a certain diameter and install it in the gun. Gently pressing the trigger of the device, coat the perimeter of the window so that a roller Ø3-4 mm remains on it.
2. Attach the glass to the frame and lightly press down, removing the gap between it and the silicone layer.
3. Attach a pre-prepared glazing bead to the glass, remembering to fill it with nails. The latter should be parallel to the glass, and not at an angle to it, otherwise there is a risk of breaking it at the time of clogging.

Tip: use galvanized nails of minimum length or finishing nails that do not have a hat.
The price of the latter is about 20% higher.

It is better to use a special hammer - glass. During operation, its one surface must be leaned against the glass, then it will definitely not crack.

Tip: do not forget that the glazing bead should always be installed on the outside of the window, then moisture will not penetrate into the room.

If you ever have to delete broken glass from a wooden window, remove the glazing bead like this:

• take a flat metal tool, such as a knife, hammer, spatula, pliers, chisel or screwdriver;
• pry the middle of the glazing bead by inserting the tool near the hammered nail;
  
• thrusting the second tool into the slots that appear, wring it out completely, and then remove it from the window.

Conclusion

From the article proposed above, it became clear that the glazing bead is a necessary structural element of any window. It allows you to protect the frame from moisture, and also will not allow cold air to enter the room. The video in this article will complement the information on the above topic.

From the article you will learn:

The glazing bead plays an important role in the plastic window. It depends on him whether the light-transmitting system will fully protect the adjacent room from the penetration of dust, noise and draft into it. Without a properly installed glazing bead, the window will be a structure that closes the opening of the room only from strong gusts of wind, while not being able to maintain heat at the proper level.

Sometimes the glazing bead (represents an elongated rail) needs to be dismantled. Most often, the reason why the rail must be removed is the replacement of a broken double-glazed window. Consider this element plastic window more.

What is a staple?

The figure below clearly shows what a bead is. For a tighter fit to the wall of the double-glazed window, it is equipped with a sealing rubber. Beads differ from each other in size and shape.

They can be:

1. curly
2. round
3. square

A wide bead is used in double-glazed windows that have only one chamber in their composition, while a narrow bead is designed for a three-chamber double-glazed window.

The composition of the glazing bead is polyvinyl chloride (PVC). However, the latest window models, as a rule, are equipped with similar elements, which are based on glass composite, which differs from plastic (PVC) in better properties.

Why does a window need a bead?

The glazing bead keeps the double-glazed window from falling out, and it is attached only from the inside of the window, there is no need for a rail from the outside.

Such an element prevents the penetration of dust, drafts, street sounds into the room; complements by making her appearance aesthetically complete.

Read also: Black plastic windows. Features of application in the interior

The glazing beads themselves rarely need to be replaced, only in case of significant damage, or if they lose their original properties.

How to remove a bead from a plastic window?

To remove the glazing bead with your own hands, you do not need to be a "jack of all trades", it is enough to be able to use a hammer, spatula and chisel. It will take 3-5 minutes for an unprepared person to remove each glazing bead (and there are 4 of them in each sash: two vertical and two horizontal), no more.

Blitz-poll: What plastic windows are better to put in a room: a living room, an office, a nursery, a bedroom, a kitchen?

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Bead removal sequence:

1. A chisel or spatula with a sharp end is placed in the gap between the glazing bead and the frame (closer to the middle).
2. By pressing the tool like a lever (a hammer to help), we are trying to raise the glazing bead.
3. We intercept the freed part with our hand and carefully remove the rail of interest.
4. We put the bead aside so that when installing it back, it will not be confused with another.
5. In the same way, we dismantle the rest of the elements.

For more information on how the window glazing bead is removed, see the videos below.

It should be remembered that the top rail of the plastic window is removed last, and during subsequent assembly it is installed first.

The wind blows into the joints between the glass and the glazing bead. How can I replace glazing beads with new, more modern methods of insulation?

Can be done as follows. Insert the glass into the frame. Secure with nails. Leave them hanging out just a little bit. Next, seal the seams with sealant. It can be silicone, it can be acrylic for painting. If you make a thin exit hole, you get a very neat seam. After applying the sealant, carefully level it with your finger. The sealant will not only secure the glass in the frame, but will also fill the small gaps between the end of the glass and the wood. If the windows are painted White color, then for work will do white silicone sealant. And you don’t have to paint, and the water is not terrible. Excess sealant on glass and wooden frame Easily removed with a tissue or dry cloth.

Glazing beads can only be replaced with beading beads, which are an integral part of fixing the glass in the frame.

Theoretically, it is possible, of course, to make a frame with grooves for glass and insert glass into it at the frame assembly stage, but there are many minuses, the main one is the impossibility of replacing glass without disassembling the frame.

In the USSR, sometimes they "went" in a funny way, instead of glazing beads putty and nails.

A year later, the putty cracked all over, the glasses burst when hammering nails, it is extremely difficult to remove a nail that has sat in the frame for several years.

In the most modern windows everywhere there are glazing beads, they are different, but they are.

Modern hacks use silicone (sealant) instead of putty, the same nails, but instead of putty, a silicone side, but this is not right.

Silicone loses color over time, "gathers" dust and it hurts to look at the window.

The problem is rather difficult to fix.

Using sealant on top of the glazing bead to seal the gaps will most likely not help.

To get rid of this problem, you have to remove the glazing beads, remove the glass and grind seat, of course, we remove all old paint, putty and so on.

Then we apply a sanitary sealant to the frame (I advise you to work with Makroflex sealant, it has never let me down).

We insert the glass, you can temporarily press it with carnations so that it does not fall out.

Now we apply another layer of sealant.

Remove excess silicone immediately with a damp cloth.

The silicone will dry and the wind will no longer bother you.

Previously, even during the union, it was the norm to use window putty instead of glazing beads. It was plastic and easily applied to the place between it and the frame, or it was used to cover up large chips on the frames. Putty for windows is also being produced now, but I don’t think that it has big success compared with modern technologies window production, so, the maximum is used by older people in their dachas, and even then out of habit. The big disadvantage was that already on next year all the putty cracked and it was necessary to rip it off again and spread new layers, and the plus was the ability to paint it with paint like the frame.

Tell me, my wooden windows are 17 years old, made of oak, bivalve, varnished. In general, one outer sash began to leak, which flows about 20 grams of water into the middle between the sashes. The window itself is closed so that the seam between the window and the frame is not covered by anything with a glazing bead flush with the window, i.e. it does not overlap the seam of the frame and the window. When it rained, I took off the bottom glazing bead, it is easy to see that at one time there was some kind of lubricant on it, not silicone, and the place under the glazing bead was moisture. I had to dry it with hot air (hair dryer). I dried the glazing bead a little, cleaned it up, smeared it with varnish again, then passed it with silicone at the junction of the window (on the gun) and smeared the glazing bead a little below and on the part that is adjacent to the window. Attached hammered cloves.

A question. Is it necessary to change the glazing beads so that they look beyond the window so that the water flows to the ebb and is there any point, again, there is a gap between the window sash and the frame. I insulated them for the winter with self-adhesive foam rubber 10 mm. But I was told that self-adhesive is better on the inner sash, and not on the outer one, that is, the rain will still pass through the foam rubber, even though it is pressed against the frame.

Tell me how to do it right, what to check and what to redo so that water does not pass. I really could not identify the place where the water came from or through the glazing bead and along the sash into the gap between sash and frame or directly into the slot.

Vasily, Samara.

Hello, Vasily from Samara!

You really can't figure out on the spot where the water is leaking through your window, and you want me to determine it without seeing it, and hundreds of miles away from you. It's a bit difficult to do this.

According to the classics of the genre, window panes are framed with glazing beads. In this case, the outer glass is always (!) Inserted from the outside and after that a glazing bead is installed around the entire perimeter. (This prevents water from penetrating behind the glass). Beads on the top and sides are usually made flush with the surface of the window sash, but the bottom bead is sometimes made with a larger shelf so that water can drain beyond the bottom surface of the sash.

Some craftsmen-kulibins put glass and bead from inside the room and at the same time a selection of a quarter of the window sashes is located outside. This is fundamentally not true. I won't explain why.

Naturally, earlier all such places were smeared with window putty, now they do it with colorless silicone.

In double-leaf windows, the joint between the two sashes is usually covered with a strip-layout (otherwise a flashing), which is nailed to one of the sashes, which closes after the first sash is closed, on which there is no such strip. This prevents the penetration of water along the junction of the valves. At the same time, the plank protrudes beyond the outer surface of the sashes and the rain rolls down it onto the window tide.

A tree is a tree, it can dry out and get wet, which is why cracks appear through which water can penetrate from the street inside. Much depends, of course, on the type of wood and the degree of fitting of window elements, the service life, but it is not always possible to completely prevent the penetration of moisture. Reduction of gaps can be achieved by replacing old elements with new ones, by adjusting window hinges.

And the foam rubber sticker is really done only from the inside. Previously, foam rubber strips were not in use, and I personally used gutta-percha rubber, which was used to seal diesel doors. But you still have to get it

I remember a case when, in a similar situation, the owner of a village house generally first pasted adhesive tape on the outside, which really did not last long, and then smeared the problematic window on the outside with silicone through all the cracks so that it became airtight.

Conclusion - universal way no. Adjust the window elements so that the mosquito does not stick its nose. I can't recommend anything else.

Other questions on the topic of metal and interior doors, windows:

doors

• Installation of doors in the opening of tongue-and-groove gypsum boards
• Installation of an entrance metal door in a log house

It's nice to receive letters from readers, especially if they testify to the practical benefits of my blog. The other day I was sent a question about the technology of mounting glazing beads on wooden windows.

I know that owners of homes with wooden windows often ask such questions and I propose to consider the topic in more detail. This is what we will do in this article.

Purpose and varieties

What are staples? These are wooden slats. small size.

Made from different breeds wood, but most often - from coniferous trees.

Sometimes hardwoods are used, and if necessary, these elements can be made from the same material as the main product, they can even be made from exotic species.

Purpose of glazing beads

Beads are designed to hold glass in a window or door frame. They are also used by furniture manufacturers as decorative elements. Previously, putty coped with the same tasks, but glazing beads look much more attractive, harmoniously connecting with the structure. Window glazing beads also additionally insulate the window.

Variety of forms

There is a large number of types of glazing beads:

• concave;
• square;
• rectangular;
• convex;
• curly.

For an additional aesthetic component, decor is applied to them, elegant carvings are cut out, etc.

Features of selection and fastening

Beads seem to be a very simple, insignificant element, but it would be a mistake to approach their choice carelessly. Only the right, picky choice will ensure tight tightness of the window. otherwise, very soon the wooden glazing bead will cease to fulfill its function, it will become unusable, drafts and moisture will begin to penetrate through the cracks.

This moment is very important for windows facing the street. For internal structures, not in contact with the external environment, you need to pay more attention to the decor, choosing special glazing beads with beautiful carvings or other decorations. For outdoor structures, ordinary smooth glazing beads are more suitable.

The material of the glazing bead must be the same as the rest of the window structure. If the frame is made of softwood, the glazing bead should be the same, otherwise hardwood is used. Manufacturers can also custom-make fine wood glazing beads if needed to ensure material consistency with the rest of the structure.

The fastening of the glazing bead is also important. It should not fit very tightly to the structure, otherwise drafts may occur.

From the outside, the fasteners should not be visible, because, if the glazing bead is intended for decoration or for insulation, it should be beautiful and neat in appearance.

For a variety of glazing beads and their purpose, see the video:

Beads for wooden windows

Question:

“I have wooden 17-year-old windows made of oak, double-leaf construction, lacquered surface.

And just recently, one sash began to leak. About 20 g of water seeps between the leaves into the room. I can’t figure out why this is happening, where exactly the problem lies and which element needs to be replaced or repaired. The window is closed in such a way that the seams between the frame and the window do not overlap with a glazing bead - it is flush with the window.

Somehow, after the rain, I took off the bottom glazing bead, this is very easy to do, as it turned out. On its surface, the remnants of some kind of lubricant (not silicone) are visible, I found moisture under the glazing bead. Dry with a hair dryer.

After drying the glazing bead, I cleaned it, varnished it, at the junction of the window I covered it with silicone on the rifle and the glazing bead itself, too, from below, in the part adjacent to the window. Fastened again with nails.

And now here's the question. Will it be necessary to change the glazing beads so that they go beyond the window, so as to ensure that the water drains to the ebb? Does this make sense, because, perhaps, there is a gap between the frame and the sash?

I insulated the windows winter time 10mm self-adhesive foam. But then I was told that the self-adhesive should be used with inside, and from the outside, water will still pass even through foam rubber tightly pressed to the frame.

Tell me, how can I do the right thing, what can I redo and check to exclude the passage of water? I just can’t determine where the water came from: it passed through the glazing bead and further along the sash, seeping into the gap between the frame and the sash, or it immediately falls into this gap.

Answer:

“Hello, Vasily from Samara!

You have puzzled me a little.

You cannot figure out where the water is leaking in from your window, but you want me to do it from a distance and give clear instructions on how to fix the problem?

Framing window glass with glazing beads is a classic convenient option that allows you to tightly fix the glass and ensure tightness and aesthetics of the structure. In this case, always, without exception, after installing the outer glass, glazing beads are mounted around the entire perimeter, which will protect the window from water passing through the glass.

On the sides and in the upper part, the glazing beads are installed flush with the surface of the sash. Bottom glazing beads are sometimes made using a large shelf. This solution ensures that water drains beyond the lower sash of the window.

Some adventurous home craftsmen insert outer glass from inside the room, like a glazing bead. In this case, a sample of a quarter of the wings is obtained from the outside. You can't use this option! You can guess why.

Obviously, in the past, all joints were covered with putty, now more convenient and modern colorless silicone is used for this.

In double-leaf structures, the joints between the leaves are covered with a flashing, nailed to the second-closing leaf (the one that closes first does not have such a layout plank).

A similar solution is used to prevent water seepage along the junction between the leaves. The flasher is out of bounds outer surface shutters, through which rainwater rolls down to low tide.

Do not forget about the property of wood to gain moisture and dry out depending on weather conditions., this causes the appearance of cracks through which, over time, water from the street can penetrate into the room.

A significant role is played by the type of wood, and how well all the elements of the window were fitted, the period, operating conditions and care, but even with the best factors, moisture can still begin to penetrate.

Self-adhesive foam rubber is really intended for gluing only from the inside of the room. Previously, foam strips were not used to seal windows. Personally, in my practice, I used gutta-percha rubber intended for sealing the doors of diesel locomotives. But such material is not so easy to obtain.

I came across an interesting case. The owner of the village house used ordinary tape on the outside, but it did not last long. And then he went through all the cracks with silicone for sealing.

To reduce gaps, you can try adjusting the window hinges or replacing old elements.

What is the conclusion? There is no single correct, universal way to deal with the described problem. I can only advise you to fit all the elements of the structure as tightly as possible, there is no other way out.

An example of removing glazing beads and adjusting the top loop in the video:

Bead window wooden

When you need to install or replace glass, you will definitely have to take care of buying a good wooden glazing bead. This element is a small dry planed lath designed to secure the sash or glass in a window frame or door.

The Selva company offers glazing beads wooden size 8x10 mm. Our products are made only from high quality materials designed for use in difficult environmental conditions. In the production of glazing beads, all necessary norms and rules are observed.

We offer all sizes of bead. In stock there are always products with a length of 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0 m.

We pay maximum attention to every, even the most seemingly insignificant detail. After all, small elements are often important. A window bead is just such an element window construction.

Despite the fact that this detail is very small, it is the glazing bead that is sometimes the determining factor in the characteristics of the window. With its loose fit, energy saving deteriorates due to the penetration of air between the glass and the glazing bead. Many years of experience with such small details as bead allows us to say that this is one of the most important elements window construction. If it fails, the entire window ceases to reliably protect the home from drafts and moisture. Therefore, we approach our work very responsibly, regardless of the product in which the glazing bead is to be installed, whether it will be used on the outer surface or perform a decorative function in furniture or interior doors.

A seemingly insignificant detail turns out to be very important, like some other small elements of a double-glazed window (seals, etc.).

A glazing bead is an element of a window structure in the form of a wooden frame, with the help of which a double-glazed window is fixed on the frame. The glazing bead usually has a groove for inserting not a contour seal, but an additional seal.

Additional sealant is made of special window rubber. That is, window glazing beads are wooden slats different shapes inserted into the rebate to secure the glass.

Bead making

To make a glazing bead, four spindles are taken for all sides: upper and lower horizontal and two side vertical ones. The lower spindle plays the role of a jointer.

Side cutters allow you to use the profile of the top cutters installed through the spacer ring. This makes it possible to change the number of strands depending on the specific workpiece.

The cutters of the upper spindle allow the profile of the glazing beads to be formed, but the workpiece is not completely cut through. The jointer lower spindle divides the glazing beads into streams, for which the undercut layer is removed.

We treat each order with the utmost responsibility, we cooperate only with reliable manufacturers who have proven their serious attitude to work for many years.

There are no trifles in our work, even the smallest details for interior structures must be impeccable both in terms of durability and aesthetics.

Window glazing bead is a large selection of products with a variety of colors and shapes, of all sizes.

Each element is made of high quality material, perfectly fulfills its task, is a functional and durable part of the window structure.

Application

Window glazing bead in most cases is designed to perform a sealing and decorative function. in furniture, window and door wooden structures. It also performs the task of securing all kinds of inserts made of glass and other materials. The durability, strength and aesthetics of the glazing bead are very important. Although it seems very insignificant, it performs several tasks and always remains in sight.

Replacement

If the glazing beads in your home have lost their original characteristics, have lost their appearance or have ceased to perform their functions, such a problem can be dealt with.

Moreover, for this you do not have to completely change the windows, it is enough to install new glazing beads - and the functionality of the structure will be restored at a low cost.

What tools are needed to do this job?

You will need sandpaper (coarse and fine-grained), a spatula, putty, cloves and the glazing beads themselves.

Preparing window glazing for replacement

Replacing glazing beads in horses is carried out in stages. First you need to remove one of the glazing beads from the window, carefully measure it and make new part the same parameters.

For cutting glazing beads, it is recommended to use a metal file. Of course, such a product can be cut with a regular knife (I even had to try this method once, since there was nothing more suitable at hand). I had to work hard...

When you are done with the first glazing bead, do exactly the same with the rest.

Remove glass and use coarse sandpaper and a spatula for cleaning the grooves located in the frame under the glass.

Installing new window glazing

Installation of new glazing beads is carried out after the enamel has dried. A thin layer of window putty is evenly applied to the place where the element is attached.

Take a bead, attach to the attachment point and press down. Remove excess putty with a spatula and nail the glazing bead with carnations.

The same must be done with all the other glazing beads. After installing all of them, you need to sand the joints with fine-grained sandpaper in the corners. After the putty dries, you can paint the window.

Here is such a simple procedure will help restore the functionality of the glazing beads and the window structure as a whole. It seems to me that there are no difficulties in this, every homeowner can do this.

Glazing of wooden windows

Restoration and glazing of wooden windows is carried out using wooden slats- glazing beads. Glass needs to be replaced correct handling ram.

Typically, glass 2-6 mm thick is used for wooden windows.

Preparation of tools and materials

Before installing new glass, you need to carry out proper training frames. Sheet 2-3 mm window glass and window glazing beads made of wood should be available.

You will also need a glass cutter, pliers or pliers, a knife and a spatula. Glass is fastened with 1-1.5 mm steel wire, nails, screws, studs, etc.

Glass sheet marking

To accurately determine the required length and width of the glass, you need to measure the distance between the folds in the window cover. For measurements, use a rigid ruler - metal, wooden, etc. In this case, a tape measure is not suitable, it does not make measurements as accurate as necessary due to the distortions and irregularities on the frame. Only after measurement is sheet glass marked.

Glass can be ordered from a specialized company that cuts glass and mirrors to specified dimensions, and thus greatly facilitates the work.

Glass must be made a few millimeters smaller than the dimensions obtained - based on the subsequent swelling or warping of the frame. Otherwise, the glass may break during these processes.

Wooden window installation technology in video:

Window frame preparation

Check the bindings, remove the slightest fragments of old glass during restoration. Be sure to wear work gloves when doing this.

Remove the old nails with tongs or pliers, remove the remnants of the old putty that has dried to the folds.

A chisel is used to remove the putty. After that, for the final removal of dirt and putty, wipe the folds with a damp cloth.

After drying, you need to carry out additional preparation with folds. If they are curved, they are leveled with a knife or chisel, after which they need to be treated with drying oil and painted.

If there are gaps in corner connections they are treated with putty. I recommend resorting to putty for outdoor work. If you first remove the frame from the hinges, it will be much easier to cope with this task. After that, the outer side of the window frame is finished.

Glazing process

When the frame is fully prepared, you need to carefully insert the glass into the folds and fix it. With the frame horizontal, you can perform this procedure slowly, with caution.

If the glazing is carried out in a vertical plane, you will have to fix the glass quickly, while holding it with your hands.

Glass is attached to the frame different ways. You can use glazing beads and putty for this.

When using putty, you need to consider that in the future it will lag behind. This is unavoidable due to loose joints of glass with folds (in particular, as a result of accumulation and runoff of condensate). Then passes through the frame cold air. Due to the shortcomings of this method, we do not recommend it and will not consider it here.

Increasingly, glazing beads are used to install and fix glass. They come in different shapes and are designed to hold down glass and fill folds (where putty was previously used).

Inserting glass with glazing beads occurs in several ways:

• without putty, dry. This method is the most undesirable;
• using bed putty under the glazing bead;
• with the installation of glazing beads and glass on putty;
• with elastic pads.

It is advisable to attach the glazing bead to the binding with screws, in extreme cases - with cloves. They are installed every 30 cm. The screws should be 3-5 mm away from the glass so as not to crush it.

If a dry insert is used, glass is inserted into the folds and secured with glazing beads. If only bed putty is used, sheet glass is laid on it, pressed tightly and fixed with slats. Excess putty is cut off and smoothed out.

If glass and bead inserts on putty are used, the glass must be laid in bed putty and pressed against the folds. On the one hand, the glazing bead is also coated with the same composition, placed in place and fixed, excess putty is removed. When the putty is completely dry, the bead is painted.

When restoring and inserting large window panes, it is better to use rubber gaskets, which will act as a putty. The simplest gaskets for this method are U-shaped.

The height of the spacers is such that they are at or below 1 mm of the edges of the binding beam or glazing bead.

If special gaskets are not available, rubber tubes can play their role, which will have to be cut to length.

With this method of inserting glasses (with rubber gaskets) you need to cut the glass with the calculation of additional gaps that form between the glass and the gasket and folds. Gap size from 3 mm. To avoid wrinkling of the gaskets, triangular cutouts are made at the corners.

The ends of special gaskets or cut tubes are put on glass and butted together. Usually this connection is made on the side or top side. The joint is fastened with wire or glued. After putting gaskets on the glass, it is inserted into the folds of the window frame and secured with glazing beads. The protruding parts of the gasket are cut flush with the glazing bead.

An example of using glazing beads in a video: