A frame house is a light structure in which the installation of a full-weight metal structure as an entrance door is hardly justified. At least from the point of view that, if desired, an attacker can easily cut a piece of the wall and get inside. However, many owners of such structures decide to install iron doors and do it themselves.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

• building level;
• hacksaw;
• a hammer;
• roulette;
• corner;
• screwdriver;
• chisel;
• mounting foam;
• wooden wedges;
• anchors.

To install metal doors for a private house built according to frame technology, you need to further strengthen the opening. It is best to perform such work at the construction stage. Otherwise, the size of the passage will be significantly reduced.

Classic order of operations

After purchasing materials and preparing the tool, you can proceed:

1. Mount the casing or pigtail. The purpose of the structure is to separate the walls of the building from the heavy metal structure, making them independent of each other. Select a groove on the sides of the finished passage, treat it with an antiseptic and dry it. Put a bar five by five centimeters into it - it should go in tightly. Mounting is not allowed here. Assemble the casing box completely, then install it levelly in the opening and fix it with self-tapping screws to the bar, preventing them from piercing it through. Do not forget to lay a heater or use foam to blow out the cracks.
2. Place the iron box on the wedges and level it. Mount with anchors through the frame or on mounting ears (depending on how the manufacturer produced the product).
3. Hang the door leaf and adjust it. Check how it closes - it should not swing open spontaneously.
4. Carry out the foaming. The threshold is better to put on the sealant.
5. Fasten the platbands.

Installing a metal door in a frame is a dangerous undertaking in the sense that even an experienced measurer can easily make a mistake in taking measurements. Calling the wizard, make a pigtail in advance. Only in this case all measurements will be taken correctly. But in this situation, there is one significant disadvantage - to spend a couple of days with an open entrance.

Photo from installation:
Making a casing box	We are preparing an opening

Installation of doors in frame housing construction

24 December, 2012

There are two types on the market today. entrance doors- metal and wood. For frame house both options are suitable, however, for their installation, you will have to take into account some features.

Due to the fact that wooden doors quite affordable, they are installed in their homes by about 70% of homeowners. That's why we'll start with them. As you know, any door consists of a block, canvas, awnings and fittings. When buying or ordering a door frame, please note that its size must be 1.5 cm smaller than the size of the doorway. This circumstance will allow you to well insulate the doorway and facilitate installation work.

Before proceeding directly to the installation, do not forget to clean the doorway of debris. Then, at the ends of the opening, we fasten the bars, the size of which corresponds to the size of the gap (we fasten 4 bars on the sides, and 3 bars on top and bottom). We “try on” the door frame into the resulting opening, it is important that it fits tightly there, if necessary, align it in level, placing wooden chips under the right side.

After making sure that the door frame is placed correctly (we check with a plumb bob), we drill holes in the threshold and in vertical posts, fasten everything with self-tapping screws. By the way, for this you need to take self-tapping screws, the length of which is 2-3 times the thickness of the threshold and racks. We hang the canvas on the hinges and check how easily the door opens and closes, and whether the lock works well.

In the event that the door, closing, clings to the lower edge of the door frame, you need to trim the end of the canvas in the place where the problem occurs. After all the errors have been eliminated, we remove the door leaf from the hinges and proceed to install the spacer rails. Two rails are mounted between the vertical posts, the threshold and the upper horizontal bar. Then the space between the opening and the box is filled mounting foam. After it is completely dry, you can hang the canvas on the box. The platbands on the door are installed after the completion of the facade cladding.

As for the installation of metal or armored doors in a frame house, there is nothing complicated, although there are still some features. Given their considerable weight, the opening will have to be strengthened. For this, an additional rack and struts (oblique or transverse) are installed, this provides greater rigidity. In addition, it is necessary to carefully process the wood along the edges of the doorway, because. at the joints of materials increases Negative influence atmosphere on wood.

Processing means the impregnation of wood with antiseptic compounds. Installation of metal doors in frame buildings does not imply complex manipulations, everything is done in the same way as in timber houses, only instead of anchor bolts they use ordinary studs with lock nuts and seals.

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This article is mine translation and adaptation western text from the American carpenters and joiners website thisiscarpentery.com about how one of the pros from this site installs a wooden door in wooden wall. So in essence, this is the installation of a door in a frame house. The story is told in the first person.
____________________________________

I've been installing doors for over thirty-five years and have been writing about it for almost twenty-five of them. Over the years, I have approached the installation of each individual door individually every time (like most carpenters), because the installation process consists of many stages and you need to follow literally everything! It will not work even next time to repeat the installation one by one. However, if you don't follow the same algorithm every time you install, you'll just be wasting valuable time and effort.

Prepare the doorway

Draft doorways are always a problem, especially now that builders are allowing a tolerance of 5 cm more than the door frame. There can also be problems with the level of the floor, not to mention the curvature of the walls of the frame house. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation, all these problems must be eliminated, otherwise then they will lead to a lot of inconvenient complications.

crooked walls

If you install a frame in a doorway with curved walls, the door will be difficult to align with the frame, and you may even think that you bought a defective door, although this is not at all the case. There are two ways to check the curvature of walls.
Drive a nail or self-tapping screw into each corner of the doorway, and then pull the thread crosswise between them to make an X in the center of the doorway.

The two strands should touch each other in the center, if not, try to move the wall at the bottom of the doorway a little.

Using a small sledgehammer and a suitable piece of wood, lightly tap the bottom of each wall. Before banging on the wall, make sure there are no plumbing fixtures or electrical outlets. And on the other side of the wall there should be no tiles, otherwise it will fall off!

Tap on the wall until the threads touch each other. Don't worry if you didn't manage to completely eliminate the curvature, you can still improve the result in the process of installing the box.

You can also check the curvature of the door frame walls "by eye". The main thing is to know where to look. If your door frame is not at the very end narrow corridor, then look over one end of the box nearest you to the opposite end farthest away from you.

Your head should be positioned so that the line of sight runs along both edges. The far edge should be parallel to yours. If this is not the case, the walls are set crooked and in this position you can see exactly how much you need to move the wall.

Align the Threshold

Don't wait until the box is installed to start leveling the sill. Put the level on the threshold and find the position where the bubble of your level stops in the center.

If you are installing the door on a finished floor - laminate, tile, or wooden board, you can measure the thickness of the alignment pad and cut the same number of millimeters from the opposite side of the harness. If the finished floor has not yet been installed, leave the gasket in place and install the box on top of it.

Make pads

Majority doorways made to large tolerances and must be reduced before installing the door, otherwise you will have to insert a gasket between the frame and the wall. Use plywood squares, screwing them around the entire perimeter of the opening so that in the end the doorway is only 3-4 mm larger than external dimensions doors and boxes.
If the door is located in a corridor or other inconvenient place, it is necessary to center the opening so that the frame and door slopes are the same on both sides of the finished door.

Installation of gaskets behind the hinges should be avoided. Gaskets behind the hinges will not allow you to subsequently adjust the position of the door in order to level and correct the necessary gaps.
Please note that on my level there are even blue marks on the hinge points so as not to accidentally install the gasket in these places.

Install the door in the opening

Place the box in the opening, then remove the mounting screws or temporary latch. Insert two spacers at the top of the jamb on opposite sides. These two spacers will securely secure the door frame and the door in the opening.

Adjust the top of the box so that it is level with both sides of the wall - or as close as possible to this, then it will be easier to install the slope.

The first five mounts

Install the first five fasteners in the right places and in the right order. Otherwise, you will not be able to properly adjust the door.

In this tutorial, I am inserting screws in the pre- drilled holes in front of the box. In your case, instead, drive 15 gauge nails or staples into each of the places you marked, or drive screws close to a quarter so that the slope covers the fasteners.

Attachment Location #1:
The first fastener is located near the top hinge of the box - as high as possible. Do not insert shims behind fastener #1. The shims are already installed at the top of the jamb.

Mounting location 2:
the second fastening is at the level of the top of the door frame as high as possible.

Mounting location 3:
the third fastening is at the level of the bottom of the door frame as low as possible to the floor. However, before that, it is necessary to correct the remaining irregularities of the wall.
Move the bottom of the door frame in or out of the wall until the door is flush with the frame. If the frame is severely warped, don't try to completely eliminate the curvature, you can still do this before attaching fastener number 4 (this is especially important with twin doors). You may need additional spacer to secure the box before installing the third fastener.

Mounting location 4:
Fastener #4 should be at the very bottom of the door frame, as low as possible to the floor. However, before that, correct the remaining irregularities of the wall.
Move the bottom of the door frame in or out of the wall until the door is perfectly flush with the frame. If you are installing a double door, make sure both are on the same plane.

To maintain an allowable gap of 3-4 mm, you may need to insert another spacer before securing the number 4 fastener.

Mounting location 5:

The last fastening fixes serious problems with doors, especially heavy ones.
The weight of the door will press on top harness doors, along with this, the upper hinge will be under pressure. This pressure will increase the hinge gap above the top hinge. If the hinge gap above the top hinge is not removed at this stage, the gap may not be corrected and the door will rub against the door frame.
To relieve pressure on the top hinge and box, replace one of the top hinge screws with a screw long enough to penetrate not only the box itself, but also the wall stud. Applying enough pressure to this screw will help adjust the top clearance, but don't overtighten it.

In the future, this screw can be loosened or tightened to adjust the fit of the door in case it settles.

Adjust bottom gap

Most heavy doors press on the bottom hinge and compress the bottom door trim, which reduces the clearance below the bottom hinge. Often for this reason, the doors do not work correctly and the bottom of the door scrapes against the door frame.

For more bottom hinge support and bottom clearance adjustment, install a shim just above the bottom hinge. Insert the spacer until the gap is equal above and below the door.

Support for door frame pillars.

Insert a pair of spacers between the walls and the box - one on each side - above and below each hinge and every 300 mm in the center.
At the same time, it is better not to use fasteners in these places, since you may have to remove these gaskets in the process of adjusting the door.

Install spacers on the sides and top

Insert shims every 300 mm behind the locking strap, including behind the locking device and door deadbolt. Fasten lower than the gaskets, not through them. Do not fasten near the locking device and deadbolt.
Insert the shims into the upper trim of the door frame so that the gap is the same throughout the entire length.

And here is the whole installation process interior door in a frame house on video:

And this interior door installation from an experienced Russian master:

Installing a door in a frame house assumes that the work will be done in correct sequence, carefully and accurately. As frame construction has its own characteristics, compliance with a certain algorithm is necessary to optimize labor costs and installation time.

Unlike other types wooden houses buildings built using frame technology do not shrink. For this reason, the installation of input and interior doors can be practiced immediately after their construction.

Installing an entrance door in a frame house is different in that it is undesirable to install heavy doors, for example, made of metal. Installation of a heavy door leaf will require additional reinforcement of the opening, for example, with a bar. Often, if a contractor is building a house, then his tasks include installing doors and making them, it is worth noting that this is very convenient, since they already have a large stock of tools and sometimes very expensive ones in their arsenal.

Another important issue when installing the front door is the choice of the direction in which it will open. A door that opens outward will be safer for the occupants of the house than one that opens inward. This also complies with fire safety rules, when the direction of opening coincides with the direction of evacuation, and helps protect the room from intruders: the door leaf that opens outward is much more difficult to crack or knock out. However, there are no laws that would regulate the direction of opening, so the owners of private houses can choose any.

Materials and tasks

For the manufacture of the door leaf, wood, metal, plastic, veneer and a number of other materials are used. When choosing, they proceed primarily from what the door will be - interior or entrance. The choice is also influenced by the interior design of the house and the preferences of the owner.

Wood, veneer, MDF, glass, plastic, etc. make a canvas for interior doors. Their main tasks are to provide sound insulation and to separate the rooms inside the building, i.e. they are primarily decorative.

On the contrary, the front door protects the interior of the house from the effects of the external environment. Its task is to protect against adverse natural factors and the penetration of intruders, so the requirements for it are higher than for interior canvases.

From outer door structure required to provide good thermal insulation, so the doorway is insulated with a special film. For the same purpose, the door leaf is insulated and, in addition, reinforced, for example, with metal, locks are installed and equipped with anti-burglary devices that prevent unauthorized entry.

For the installation of entrance doors in a frame house with your own hands, it is recommended to buy a ready-made door structure. Firstly, it will reduce the time to complete the work, and secondly, it will help to avoid errors when installing in a doorway.

Installation of entrance doors made of metal and wood

1. Installation of a metal door in a frame house begins with checking the strength of the doorway. Jambs should be installed on all sides of the opening, securely fastened to the racks of the frame. It is acceptable that the casing be made of timber, however, it must be borne in mind that this will reduce the size of the opening. Before installing it, it is necessary to seal the walls in the opening with vapor and waterproofing films. The film is fixed with adhesive tape and a stapler. Before purchasing a metal door structure, it is necessary to perform the necessary measurements in advance.
2. The door unit consists of a leaf and a metal frame with hinges. The latter has holes for fastening to the walls of the opening, or "ears" with such holes are provided. The structure is placed in the doorway, the door is opened, after which a bar is placed under the open canvas. Opened door after the installation is complete, it will look like this. This stage of work is performed by at least 2 people, since a metal door block usually weighs from 60 kg and it is inconvenient and dangerous to work with it alone.
3. Using a level, the frame is aligned horizontally and vertically, fixed with wooden wedges correct position. Close the canvas and again check the position of the structure with a level. If deviations are detected, they are eliminated by knocking out wedges.
4. Next, perform a rigid fastening of the block in doorway. To do this, drill side holes for anchors in the casing through the mounting holes located in the frame or "ears". Holes for anchors are drilled through the casing and frame racks. After that, the door block is fixed with anchors and the door leaf is opened and closed several times, checking the operation of the doors.
5. Similarly, holes for anchors are drilled in the upper and lower parts of the frame, after which its position is fixed with anchors.
6. Check the doors again. If they close and open normally, then the seams between the frame and the box from the bottom up - from the floor to the ceiling - are blown with mounting foam with a gun. The seams are not completely blown out - by 60-70%.
7. The bottom seam - between the floor and the threshold - is recommended to be filled not with foam, but with sealant.
8. After checking the operation of the door and the foam hardening, the seams can be closed with platbands.

Similarly, the installation of door blocks made of wood. To install them, it is not necessary to strengthen the opening with a casing box, and the side racks from the boards will suffice. In addition, one person can handle the installation on their own.

Installation of interior doors

A common mistake when installing interior door units is choosing a frame made from fiberboard. Due to their low strength, they quickly warp, in addition, hanging doors on such a box is a very laborious task.

The choice of an entrance metal door is a difficult matter, and it is worth approaching it responsibly.

Our company anticipates possible questions and features of the installation of entrance doors and offers, at a minimum:

Door leaf 90cm (for ease of carrying furniture)

The door is not made in China.This is an economy option and it will freeze in winter (ice will form).

In order to understand what kind of door is needed for your home, we suggest that you read our article.

General tips for choosing doors.

To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for choosing:

A quality steel door consists of the following elements:

• One-piece front sheet with no welds. If the welds stand out strongly, the door will break into pieces after powerful blows.
• The presence of platbands, they close the distance between the door frame and the opening for its installation. The absence of platbands provides burglars with the opportunity to break in with a mount.
• The vestibule - looks like a protruding section of the front sheet, and closes the gap between the door and the door frame. The vestibule serves as an additional protection against breaking with a mount.

During the selection, you need to pay attention to the transverse stiffeners, this is very important, because after a few years the insulation of the door at the top will disappear and there will be a void in its place, besides, they save from breaking. Without insulation, the house will become noisy, and in winter it will be very cold. It is advisable to study the thermal insulation properties when buying, it depends on the sound insulation, which is easy to check.

A completely different question is the durability of the door, no one will give it a test, because strong kicks will spoil the quality of the structure. But you can check the resistance by looking at the structure, for example, if the thickness of the outer sheet is less than 1.5 mm, the door will deform over time, and it will be possible to cut through it even with a blunt knife. The normal thickness of the outer sheet is 2 mm, and do not believe if you are told that thin sheets are no different from normal ones. If you can't measure the thickness of a sheet, look at its weight. How to do it? Just open and close the door, if you feel that it is light, then there are two options: poor quality material or a thin outer layer.

Familiarize yourself with the locks, if there are two of them - excellent, when breaking into the robbers will have to try and most likely they will not succeed. It is advisable to install a lever and cylinder lock so that it is very difficult to break the door. At the moment, manufacturers offer locks and internal hinges, so you can protect yourself from cutting the hinges. But according to statistics, poor-quality locks are to blame for 90% of robberies, and the cut of loops is practically not used by robbers. Not only are the hinges useless, they are also expensive and spoil the characteristics of the door, so their installation is impractical.

Thermal insulation and sound insulation.

When production iron doors in Russia it was just beginning to develop, their quality left much to be desired, and even wooden representatives were much more reliable and convenient. And even despite the fact that metal conducts sound and heat better, it was almost impossible to install a metal door with high quality. And the tree is much more comfortable and softer, so it was not difficult to make installation in size. In those days, people avoided iron doors because of the complicated and expensive installation, but now everything has changed.

Now people still use the old method to increase thermal insulation and noise protection, people install a steel door and a wooden one. The steel door saves from breaking, and the wooden one protects from noise and cold, besides, it looks very nice. But everything can be made much easier - to purchase a high quality metal door that will perform all the functions you need. Technology has advanced a lot, and now installing a metal door is very beneficial because:

• A high-quality seal is carried out along the entire length of the door leaf, usually in two circuits. For better sealing, webs, seals and frames are specially made from bent profiles.
• Decorative panels have a minimum thickness of 8 millimeters, so extraneous noise does not reach the apartment.
• Inside the canvas contains mineral wool and foam to dampen noise during door strikes.
• Ideal sealing of the mounting gap, usually high-quality cement or even concrete is used as a material. The door frame is also filled with cement or concrete.

Previously, it was possible to finish the finish in only two ways: inner part canvases with leather substitute material, or paint it with durable paint. It is quite possible that people tried to save on materials and hung a heavy load on the tenants, because they had to repaint the canvas themselves or order the covering material separately. Expensive wooden doors were made from a single piece and covered with a resistant varnish; these doors can still be seen in very old buildings. But then there were expensive models, and the coating was not even thought through, painted with the first paint that came across and covered with low-quality material. Even now you can find similar doors, although the market is full of new models that are affordable and of the highest quality.

In the 90s, new imported doors appeared in Russia, and their finish was striking in high quality. Israeli doors were covered with all the familiar PVC material, and Italian and Spanish decorative panels and overlays. Russian manufacturers adopted foreign experience and launched the production of new doors. But many do not pay attention to high-quality leather upholstery and still prefer to install panels. More often, thick panels with a width of 8-20 millimeters or thin ones up to 4 millimeters are installed, moreover, the panels are made of different materials. Slim models are made of plastic or MDF, and the outer side of the panel is covered with natural veneer or plastic film. Wider panels are made from MDF, solid wood or thick plywood. Usually, a pattern is applied to an MDF sheet, and then a natural veneer or plastic film. If the panel is made of solid wood, it is varnished and tinted.

The panels have many advantages, for example, you can choose a suitable pattern or color for the overall interior of the apartment, but artificial leather does not allow this. The cost of the panel depends on the complexity of the pattern and the quality of the material, but due to high demand, the price has also increased. The cost of a thin panel is at least 500 rubles, and a wide one is 12 thousand rubles. But, despite the high quality and many advantages, there are also disadvantages. The surface of the panel, like the surface of the skin, is easily deformed. To increase resistance to damage, a layer of protective plastic is applied, but the cost of the panel also increases very much.

Castle selection

Above, we have already said that you need to install two locks with different systems. The first is lever, and the second is pin or cylinder. Thus, the robbers will break their heads during the break-in and lose a lot of time. You need to spend a lot of time, nerves and tools to carry out a break-in, but this is if he did not take a grinder with him. Putting one lock is much easier and even more convenient, but when there are two of them, you can be sure that the apartment is safe. It is very important to choose different lock manufacturers because manufacturers use the same patterns in their locks. A latch lock for a metal door is not at all suitable, because if it closes randomly, you will have to break the door.

Most experts say that lever locks are the most effective and reliable. Usually they are crab, that is, the tongues-crossbars “leave” in two or four opposite directions in relation to the door leaf. But what harder design castle, the higher its value. When installing two high-quality locks, a tidy sum will go away, so it’s better to make the main lock crab, and the second ordinary. One of the locks should be cylinder, and the second - lever, this is the best combination. You can increase the stability of the cylinder lock larva with an armor plate, so it will be more difficult to knock it out. If the bolts of the locks are hidden inside the metal rotating tubes, they cannot be sawn through.

When buying a door, pay attention to the manufacturer of the lock, it is advisable to buy a complete set with an imported lock. They are much better and practically do not fail, besides, the number of key combinations is incredibly high - at least 500 thousand, maximum 4 billion. The main advantage of the heck is reliability and simplicity. It is impossible to crack it with a master key, and it is unrealistic to break it with a sledgehammer or a heavy blow, because the blow is distributed over the entire area of ​​a heavy metal door. But you can use the grinder, although with such noise it is unlikely that the criminal will succeed. He can escape even because the latch is used only when someone is at home. Do not forget about actions during a fire, if you have installed a latch - getting out of the apartment is as easy as shelling pears. Even expensive imported locks are not so safe, because when heated, the internal mechanisms are deformed and become faulty, and the spring elements are destroyed in the first place. The door is jammed and it is impossible to get out of the apartment.

According to their design, the hecks are overhead and embedded, with and without a latch. Correctly mounted mount Eliminates the difference between mortise and overhead design during use. You may need a latch if the latch needs to be opened from the outside, because it is almost impossible to push objects through the cracks in the door. Plus, the canvas stops vibrating and leans more strongly against door frame. In rare cases a chain may be needed, but a steel door is very heavy and a very strong chain should be chosen, much stronger than for a wooden door.

To sum up and remember everything from the very beginning, what should be provided by high-quality steel door and how it should look like:

• A high-quality door has no deformations and distortions, it is an ideal geometric design.
• It is necessary to install high-quality imported locks in the canvas, moreover, two types at once: cylinder and lever (crab).
• A good canvas has a seal for thermal insulation and sound insulation. But still, a rubber seal around the perimeter of the door will not hurt either.
• no matter how good and reliable door if it was installed incorrectly. Follow up correct installation- it is very important.
• decorative trim steel door should be on high level, choose between powder coating or natural wood panels.