If the roof is already covered: attic insulation from the inside according to all the rules. Insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered - the nuances of the process and the choice of thermal insulation material

The attic floor is often used for housing, so it is necessary to carry out the insulation correctly in order to create comfortable conditions. The technology is similar to similar work in any other room, but the peculiarity is that the attic is separated from the street by gables and roofing, and not by capital walls. All surfaces need to be insulated, and since they differ in device, the installation of the insulation is carried out in different ways.

What is the best way to insulate a mansard roof

Usually on the attic floor there are no load-bearing walls with high thermal insulation characteristics, therefore, the insulation of the roof and gables must be carried out especially carefully and efficiently. Only in this way you can feel comfortable and cozy in the attic both in summer and in winter.

If we compare the roof of the attic room and the main walls, it is clear that it cannot compete with them in terms of thermal insulation. In addition, the roof cannot withstand heavy loads. All this must be taken into account when choosing a heater.

Properly insulated attic can significantly increase the living space of the house

In order to maximize the usable volume of the attic floor, the following rules must be followed during its construction:

• to reduce the load on the truss system, light roofing materials are chosen; in this case, it is not recommended to use natural tiles;
• to reduce the layer of the roofing cake, modern and effective heat-insulating materials are chosen;
• special attention is paid to the organization of ventilation of the roof space, otherwise moisture will accumulate in the room and the thermal insulation properties will deteriorate.

Properly performed ventilation and waterproofing of the mansard roof allows moisture to be removed from under the roof space, which ensures effective thermal insulation and long service life of the materials used.

For the attic roof it is necessary to choose light materials

The number of required layers and the thickness of the heat-insulating “pie” depend on the choice of insulation. The attic has its own design features, so the insulation must meet the following requirements:

• have low thermal conductivity, experts recommend using materials with a coefficient below 0.05 W / m * K;
• due to possible roof leaks, the insulation must be moisture resistant and lose a minimum of its properties after getting wet;
• have a small weight so as not to overload the rafter system, it depends on the density of the material, which should be in the range of 14–50 kg / m 3, it is not recommended to use denser heaters;
• should not burn and support combustion;
• since the heat-insulating material is laid on the roof, this requires that it keeps its shape well and does not slip over time, forming gaps;
• withstand significant temperature changes, not be afraid of frost;
• have a long service life.

Materials for insulation

For the insulation of the attic roof, the following materials are most often used:

1. Mineral wool. This is an excellent solution, it does not burn and does not support the combustion process, it is easy to install, has a low weight, high thermal insulation characteristics. Besides, mineral wool has an affordable cost, so it is popular and in demand. Depending on the location of the insulated building, the thickness of its layer can be from 150 to 300 mm. The main disadvantage is that this material absorbs moisture well, so you need to make high-quality waterproofing.

   Mineral wool can be in rolls and mats, it is more difficult to insulate the roof with rolled materials

2. Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene. This material has a low weight, good thermal insulation characteristics, low moisture permeability, but its main drawback is a high degree of fire hazard. During the laying of the foam, it crumbles, so there are gaps that must be additionally sealed. After some time, the foam plastic, unprotected from external factors, begins to gradually collapse, therefore, experts do not recommend warming the attic with this material.

   To insulate the attic, it is necessary to use foam plastic with a thickness of at least 50 mm, if necessary, it can be laid in several layers

3. Extruded polystyrene foam. This good insulation for carrying out these works, as it is durable, not afraid of moisture, does not burn and keeps its shape well. A sufficient layer of material is 5–10 cm. Extruded polystyrene foam has a low vapor permeability, therefore, to create in the attic comfortable conditions it is necessary to properly make the supply and exhaust ventilation, and this is additional time and costs. In addition, its price is higher than that of conventional foam.

   When insulating the roof with extruded polystyrene, good ventilation is necessary

4. Polyurethane foam. For installation, special equipment is used, which allows you to apply the material without cracks and gaps. It has good thermal insulation characteristics, low weight, does not burn, moisture-proof, but its disadvantage is low vapor permeability. Without the organization of forced ventilation, it will be uncomfortable to be in such a room due to high humidity.

   It will not be possible to carry out work on insulation with polyurethane foam on your own, as professional equipment is needed

5. Ecowool. This is the most suitable material for attic insulation. It is also applied without gaps, penetrates into all cracks and fills them well, is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, is light in weight and has good vapor permeability, and is environmentally friendly. In addition to the fact that the cost of this material is high, it will not work to insulate the attic with ecowool on its own, therefore, specialists will have to be invited to perform these works.

   Special equipment is used to apply ecowool

6. foil materials. They not only insulate the room, but also reflect heat. In order for such materials to effectively fulfill their purpose, the mirror layer must be directed inside the attic. A gap of about 5 cm is left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

   Foil insulation is used for hydro, heat and sound insulation.

In each case, the choice of the most effective insulation for the attic must be approached individually. When using mineral wool, the heat-insulating "pie" can be disassembled, the condition of the rafters assessed and, if necessary, carried out repair work and then put everything back in place. If sprayed materials were used, then it will not be possible to inspect the rafters.

The better to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside

When choosing materials for attic insulation from the inside, the climatic conditions in which the house is located are taken into account. Each material has its pros and cons. The most popular and affordable material with which the attic is insulated from the inside is basalt wool. Installation is carried out in several layers, while overlapping the seams. Usually a layer 15–20 cm thick is sufficient.

Basalt wool is laid in several layers

Professionals often use polyurethane foam. It has high adhesion, so after application there are no gaps left. Polyurethane foam has high thermal insulation characteristics, so it is applied in a smaller layer, unlike other materials, which will need much more. But keep in mind that the cost of this material is high and installation will not work without special equipment. Expanded polystyrene plates are often used, the thickness of the required layer will depend on the density of the material used.

If you are insulating the mansard roof from the inside yourself, then it is best to use expanded polystyrene, basalt or mineral wool, as they are simply mounted. Often they are combined: first mineral wool is laid, and then expanded polystyrene plates.

How to properly insulate the roof of the attic

The technology for carrying out these works is not difficult, especially if the insulation is performed with mineral wool. During the installation of thermal insulation, personal safety measures must be observed: be sure to wear tight and closed clothing, use goggles, gloves and a respirator.

Work sequence:

1. Preparatory stage. Everything wooden surfaces well treated with antiseptics, metal parts are coated with anti-corrosion impregnation.

   Treatment of wooden roof elements with an antiseptic can significantly increase their service life.

2. Waterproofing attachment. A waterproofing film is fixed on the rafters, and a crate is mounted on top. The waterproofing material is overlapped between the crate and the rafters, all seams are glued with a mounting film, for example, Ondutis BL or Ondutis ML. First, the tape is attached to the canvas located below, it is done 5–6 cm from the edge, then the protective layer is removed from the tape and the upper canvas is fixed. Laying material is carried out from the lower slope of the roof. First, the film is fixed with a stapler, and then wooden counter-rails are installed to create a ventilation gap. You can fasten the slats to the rafters with nails or powerful staples, but it is better to do this with self-tapping screws. Then proceed to the installation of insulation.

   Laying of insulating layers is carried out in a certain sequence.

3. Heater installation. The insulation is laid between the rafters, work starts from the bottom and gradually moves up. In order for the insulation to fit snugly, its size should slightly exceed the distance between the beams. To fix the insulation, use special anchors or frost-resistant glue. This applies to roll and plate insulation, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam. Ecowool and polyurethane foam are applied using a special installation, so there are no unfilled voids.
4. Vapor barrier attachment. After laying the last layer of insulation, the installation of a vapor barrier is carried out. It is attached to a wooden crate laid on a heat-insulating layer. Do not stretch the vapor barrier membrane too much, it should sag by 2–3 cm, this will ensure that there is a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation and the exterior finish.
5. The final stage is the installation of finishing materials. To do this, a crate is made over the laid vapor barrier, you can use wooden slats or a metal profile, and already sheets of drywall, plywood, chipboard or lining are fixed on it with the help of special screws.

   Installation of drywall is carried out on a metal or wooden crate, which is attached to the rafters over the vapor barrier

When installing the insulation, the plates should be tightly adjacent to each other, and to eliminate cold bridges, it is recommended to lay a second layer with overlapping joints.

Useful tips for choosing and installing various types of insulation:

• if mineral wool or fiberglass is used, then to ensure high thermal insulation characteristics, their layer should be 15–20 cm;
• basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 1000 ° C, does not absorb moisture, but it is damaged by rodents;
• A 2.5 cm layer of polyurethane foam in terms of its thermal insulation characteristics corresponds to an 8 cm layer of mineral wool;
• A 15 cm layer of ecowool in terms of thermal insulation characteristics corresponds to a 50 cm wood;
• so that the rolled or slab material fits snugly between the rafters, its width must exceed the distance between them by 1–2 cm.

Features of installing insulation for a mansard roof

When designing a building with an attic floor, it is necessary to correctly calculate the distance between the rafters in order to ensure maximum structural strength. When installing insulation between the rafters, it is necessary to lay the material back to back so that there are no gaps left, otherwise cold bridges form.

Only the correct laying of all elements will effectively insulate the attic

During the installation of waterproofing, all work is carried out from the lower slope of the roof and the material is overlapped. On top of the insulation mats, it is recommended to lay another continuous layer that will completely cover the rafters. Wooden or metal rafters have a higher thermal conductivity than insulation and are cold bridges. If they are closed with insulating material, it will be inconvenient to mount the finishing elements. To simplify this task, it is necessary to mark the location of the rafters during the installation of the last layer of insulation.

If we talk about the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, then not all materials are convenient to install, it is almost impossible to lay roll insulation normally. To strengthen the rafter system, various connections are often used, which complicate the laying of the insulation layer.

Video: attic roof insulation from the inside

Insulation of the pediment of the attic from the outside

When insulating the pediment from the outside, most specialists and home craftsmen use extruded polystyrene foam or ordinary foam. To perform these works, scaffolding will be needed, since doing everything with the help of a ladder will be difficult, long and tiring.

The technology of warming the pediment from the outside consists of the following steps:

1. First, the walls are prepared. To do this, they are cleaned of dirt, and then primed. The primer will allow the adhesive to show its characteristics better. It is recommended to prime in two layers, the second is applied after the first has dried.
2. If you plan to use a finishing material such as siding, then for its fastening it is necessary to make a crate. She may be from wooden beams or galvanized profiles. The height of the crate should correspond to the thickness of the insulation used.

   To make it easier to install the foam, the step of the crate should be equal to the width of the sheet, then the material will lie tightly and the waste will be minimal

3. The foam sheet in the corners and in the center is smeared with glue and pressed for 30-35 seconds to the surface of the gable.
4. If the foam will be plastered, then it is better to additionally fix it with plastic dowels.

   If the foam will be plastered, it must be fixed with dowels, and if siding is mounted, then it is enough to fix it only with glue

5. After laying the insulation, a waterproofing film is attached. If the crate is wooden, then this is done with a stapler, and it is fixed to the profile with the help of a counter-crate, on which the siding is then attached. To create a gap between waterproofing and decorative trim the thickness of the crate should be 20–30 mm.
6. At the last stage, the siding is installed or the foam is plastered, and then painted.

   Both metal and vinyl siding can be used to finish the gable.

Video: attic gable insulation

It is not difficult to insulate the attic with your own hands, it is enough to have basic knowledge and skillful hands. If we talk about the insulation of the pediment, then when using a hinged facade, it is better to take such heat-insulating material as mineral wool. If the facade is wet, then it is better to insulate with foam. Only with the observance of the developed technologies and the correct implementation of the stages of work on the insulation of the attic, the expected result will be obtained. If everything is done correctly, then you can use the attic as a living space throughout the year.

Every year more and more of our compatriots fall under the temptation to equip residential attic in my house. This makes it possible to expand the living space and adds some romance to the overall concept of the house, especially if you install skylights. Almost all new country houses are initially built with an attic, but even in old houses, cold attics are remodeled by compassionate owners, insulated, heated and equipped. In order for the attic to be warm and dry in winter, cool in summer and the materials last for a long time, it is necessary to understand the very essence of the attic floor insulation technology and understand the processes taking place in it. It is not difficult to do the insulation of the attic roof with your own hands, all the work is quite simple, you only need a partner and a tool. The main thing is to do everything right, then the heat-insulating material will last a long time, the wood of the rafters will not get wet and will not rot, and as a result, an early overhaul will not be needed.

Why is attic roof insulation necessary?

The attic is a special room, its walls are almost closely drawn to the roof surface and the ventilation gaps are no more than 10 - 15 cm. That is why the attic quickly cools down in winter and heats up in summer. The entire area of ​​the roof is, as it were, an accumulator of solar heat in summer, and most of the heat goes through it in winter. This is due to the thermal conductivity of the materials from which it is made, and ventilation. For example, in winter, the heat coming from heating radiators rises, spreads under the roof and safely escapes, since the roof material has a high thermal conductivity. At the same time, the snow melts, turns into ice and destroys the roofing material. And in summer, the surface of the roof heats up and transfers heat to the entire structure, as a result, even the air becomes hot and stale. Two air conditioners will not cope with such a problem.

In a house with a classic cold attic, the situation is quite different. In it, the function of a heat insulator is performed by snow on the roof in winter and air in the attic. Backfill thermal insulation materials on the floor of the attic, plus the air enclosed in the attic, perfectly contain the heat coming from the residential heated space. As a result, even in the most severe winters, the temperature in the attic does not fall below 0°C - -2°C. Thanks to this, the snow on the roof does not melt and serves as an additional heat insulator. In summer, the air temperature in the attic can be regulated by opening and closing the windows in the gables, in fact, this is a real ventilation that removes excess heat from the attic, preventing overheating of the structural elements of the roof.

What to do with the attic? It is necessary to carefully insulate the room, choosing the right material, its thickness, installation location and comply with the technology. For example, if you use a heater of insufficient thickness - by eye, then it may not be enough, the snow will melt, and soon you will have to re-roof the roofing material, since the old one will become completely unusable. A sufficient width of the insulation will completely isolate the attic room from the roof, and well-executed ventilation will remove excess moisture and condensate from the under-roof space. But first things first.

Mansard roof insulation materials

Choosing the best thermal insulation material for insulation of a mansard roof is a very important task. It depends on the type of insulation how thick the “pie” of insulation will be and the number of layers in it. Due to the specifics of the place where the material will be used, certain requirements are imposed on it:

• Low thermal conductivity. It is advisable to take a material with a coefficient below 0.05 W / m * K.
• Low moisture permeability. Due to the fact that the roof can leak, the insulation material must be moisture resistant and, if possible, not get wet or lose its properties when wet. If this condition cannot be met, then the insulation must be waterproofed to prevent wetting.
• The low weight of the insulation is extremely important so as not to overload the roof structure. You can determine the weight of a material by its density. To insulate the attic, you can use mineral wool insulation with a density of 45 - 50 kg / m3, fiberglass - with a density of 14 kg / m3. Heavier plate options (200 kg / m2) will not work.
• Fire safety. It is desirable that the material does not burn and does not support combustion.
• The ability to keep in shape. Since the place of laying the insulation is unusual - between the rafters at an angle, over time, light roll materials based on mineral fiber can slide down, leaving large gaps at the top - empty spaces. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will retain its shape and dimensions for a long time.
• Resistance to severe frosts temperature fluctuations and the ability to withstand multiple defrost/freeze cycles.
• Durability.

The thickness of the attic insulation is calculated for each case individually. This can be done using a special online calculator. For the calculation, it is necessary to indicate the region of construction, the thickness of the walls of the house and their material, the thickness and material of the wall insulation, the thickness and material of the floors of the house, as well as the thickness and material of the insulation of the floors. All this is extremely important for calculating heat losses, on the basis of which the thickness of the insulation is selected. If you select “by eye”, then in most cases mineral wool with a layer of 250 mm is enough.

Consider the most popular materials that are used to insulate mansard roofs.

Mineral wool or glass wool- one of the most successful solutions for insulating the attic from the inside, although not ideal. Mineral wool perfectly fits into the space between the rafters, leaving no gaps, does not burn and does not support combustion, weighs little and serves as an excellent heat insulator. Slab positions of basalt wool perfectly keep their shape. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture quite strongly, like any cotton wool, therefore, waterproofing from the side of the roof and vapor barrier from the side of the living room are required, since mineral wool vapor also absorbs well. Wet mineral wool loses up to 60% of its properties irrevocably, and its complete replacement is required. In addition, over time, it cakes and crumbles, it does not withstand mechanical loads well.

However, mineral wool remains one of the most the best materials for insulating a mansard roof with your own hands. It is inexpensive, easy to work with, and following the right technology will level out its shortcomings. For different regions the thickness of the insulation is calculated individually, but the minimum layer of mineral wool for the middle zone of the Russian Federation is 150 mm, in colder regions the thickness must be increased to 250 - 300 mm.

Styrofoam or Styrofoam- an extremely popular material on the market, with which they try to insulate everything, and what is possible and what is not worth it. Against the background of seemingly ideal characteristics - low thermal conductivity, negligible weight, moisture resistance and rigid shape, the foam has significant drawbacks. Firstly, various brands expanded polystyrene have varying degrees of fire safety from G1 to G4. And as practice has shown, for some reason combustible polystyrene G3 - G4 is used for insulation, which can end very badly. After all, the fire spreads upwards, if the attic insulation material catches fire, it will be unrealistic to survive in it. Secondly, working with polystyrene is not very convenient, since it crumbles when cut and installed, there are gaps between the rafters that have to be closed in all sorts of tricky ways. Thirdly, the foam plastic begins to crumble and collapse over time. Given all the shortcomings, it is not worth doing the insulation of the attic roof with foam plastic. This material can only be used in areas where it will be hidden behind a floor screed or a layer of plaster.

Extruded polystyrene foam- an excellent material for insulating the attic from the outside, i.e. if you lay it on the rafters under the roofing material. It is strong enough, not afraid of moisture, does not burn, keeps its shape perfectly. And what is important - it requires a very small layer of 50 to 100 mm.

polyurethane foam- a modern material that is blown using a special installation, leaving not the slightest cracks or gaps. This is an indisputable plus, especially since with such a coating it is easy to avoid cold bridges in the form of rafter legs. Polyurethane foam is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, weighs little and keeps its shape perfectly. But he has another drawback - low vapor permeability, he practically does not "breathe" at all. This means that the attic room will always be unpleasantly damp if forced ventilation is not provided.

Ecowool- one of the most ideal options in the question of how best to insulate a mansard roof. It is also blown into all cracks, is not afraid of moisture, practically does not burn, weighs little, "breathes" and, most importantly, is absolutely environmentally friendly, unlike all other materials. Its fumes or random particles are not capable of causing harm, unlike mineral wool.

When choosing a heater for a mansard roof, pay attention not only to the characteristics of the material itself, but also to the clean design features its use. For example, laying mineral wool between the rafters allows, if necessary, to disassemble the "pie" of insulation and check the condition of the rafters, repair them, and then the mineral wool slabs can be easily put in place. If polyurethane foam is sprayed into the space between the rafters, then the rafters become practically inaccessible for revision. So everything needs to be treated wisely.

How to properly insulate a mansard roof from the inside

The most common way to insulate an attic is from the inside, if space permits or there are no other contraindications. For this, heaters based on mineral wool, glass wool and, less often, extruded polystyrene foam are used. Even less often blow out polyurethane foam or ecowool.

The scheme of insulation of the mansard roof from the inside

Compliance with the correct "pie" of mansard roof insulation is the key to the durability of materials and the comfort of living in an attic room.

Mansard roof insulation pie (from inside to outside):

• Finishing material.
• Vapor barrier membrane.
• Insulation - mineral wool or glass wool.
• A waterproofing membrane that releases steam and does not allow moisture to enter.
• Ventilation gap with crate.
• Roofing material.

Vapor barrier film it is necessary to use it if there are wadded materials as a heater. So the mineral wool can be protected from the damp vapors of the living quarters. If polyurethane foam or ecowool is used instead of mineral wool, then vapor barrier is not needed.

Waterproofing needed in any case, regardless of the insulation used, it will protect the wooden elements of the roof structure. As a waterproofing, it is necessary to use superdiffusion membranes that can release steam to the outside and not let moisture in. Between the waterproofing film and the roofing material, a ventilation gap of 4 to 10 cm thick is required, depending on the type of roof. Through it, excess steam will come out of the heater.

Laying insulation between the rafters of the mansard roof

Insulation of the mansard roof from the inside is best done at the stage of building a house. Then all stages of work will be performed correctly. Before starting the insulation, it is necessary to determine where we will insulate. To do this, we draw a drawing of the attic with the exact dimensions and note where the interior space will be finished. For example, if the living space will occupy the entire area, including the roof slope up to the ceiling, then the entire roof slope must be insulated. If the room is, as it were, cut off, i.e. below, between the slope and the interior trim, there will be free space, then it will be necessary to insulate strictly according to the drawn scheme, leaving free space for ventilation. But then in narrow areas near the very edge of the roof it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling.

Consider the option of insulating the entire roof slope:

• Even at the construction stage, before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to waterproof the roof. To do this, we lay a waterproofing membrane on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom up, making an overlap of at least 15 cm and gluing the joints with self-adhesive tapes. The film must be spread out without tension so that it does not tear when frost sets in. It must be laid with a sag of no more than 2 cm per 1 m. We nail the waterproofing to the rafters with a construction stapler. If this is not the case, then galvanized nails with a wide hat can be used.
• From above we nail a crate of wooden bars. Their thickness is selected depending on the required size of the ventilation gap, at least 2.5 cm. We fix the crate with corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws. In order not to injure the film once again, we make holes in the bars in advance.

Important! For greater reliability, two ventilation gaps can be made: between the insulation and waterproofing, between the waterproofing and the roof. This will protect the material from getting wet if condensation suddenly accumulates on the film.

• We lay roofing material on the crate - tiles, corrugated board, slate, metal tiles. Here, for the installation of a soft roof, you first need to nail sheets of chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the crate, which will serve as the basis for fastening.

• Works are moved inside the attic room. We unpack the insulation - mineral wool and let it lie down and straighten up. Cut into required pieces. The width should be 20 - 30 mm more than the distance between the rafters so that the canvases are held "by surprise".

• We push the insulation sheets into the space between the rafters. We press on the middle of the canvas, and the edges straighten themselves. The thickness of the rafter should be 200 - 250 mm.

Important! It is convenient to select the step between the rafters according to the size of the future insulation. Rolls are sold with a width of 1200 mm. The step can be made 1200 mm or 600 mm, then the roll will need to be cut in half.

• On top of the insulation we lay a vapor barrier material with an overlap of 10 cm, glue the joints with adhesive tape. We fix to the rafters with brackets or with the help of a crate.
• We fill the crate of slats with a thickness of 25 mm.
• We fix the finishing material on the rails.

This completes the insulation. For a more illustrative example, you can watch the video insulation of the mansard roof.

If you plan to insulate the attic in an old or already built house and do not want to remove the roofing material, then you can cheat a little. The waterproofing film can be spread inside the attic, wrapping it around the rafters and leading into the space between them. But in this case, the wooden rafters are unprotected in case of leaks.

Laying insulation under the rafters of the mansard roof

A little less often, the method of insulation is used, when the material is laid inside the attic on top of the rafters, and not in the space between them. The main reason is that this way you can avoid cold bridges, which are wooden rafters. And so a snug fit of the heat-insulating material will ensure the absence of gaps, and the free space between the rafters will serve as additional ventilation. A very good solution if the attic space allows you to reduce it by at least 30 cm on each side.

Insulation of the attic from the inside of the room:

• From the inside, we nail the waterproofing membrane to the rafters.
• We fasten plasterboard ceiling hangers to the rafters so that they look at each other with their U-shaped hole.

• We put a heater in the suspensions. We cut the canvas with a slight overlap to eliminate the appearance of cracks. The result should be a continuous sheet of insulation. We outline along the way where the rafters are located.
• We close the insulation with a vapor barrier film, fasten it with brackets.
• We fill the crate for finishing material. For fixing, we use long nails 150 - 200 mm to break through the insulation and reach the rafters.

In principle, this method can be combined with laying insulation between the rafters. The first layer will be between the rafters, and the second will cover everything, including cold bridges.

How to insulate a mansard roof from the outside

It is possible to insulate the roof from the outside only at the construction stage or if the roofing material is removed. This method of insulation allows you to leave the attic space in its original form without losing space. Also many design solutions suggest the use of rafters as decorative elements of the decor.

Mansard roof insulation technology from the outside

Insulation of the attic from the outside is carried out only with dense slab materials. These include extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex. It is not afraid of moisture, so it does not require vapor barrier. The "pie" of Penoplex insulation will look like this:

• Extruded polystyrene boards.
• Waterproofing membrane.
• Ventilation gap with crate.
• Roofing material.

The undeniable advantage of this method of insulation is that the rafters are available for inspection and repair at any time.

Laying insulation on the rafters of the mansard roof

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam over the rafters allows you to create a continuous heat-insulating layer without cold bridges.

• To prevent the material from sliding off the roof, at the very bottom we nail a board to the rafters, with a width equal to the thickness of the insulation (from 50 to 100 mm).
• We spread the insulation boards in a checkerboard pattern. You need to start from the bottom, from the fixing rail.
• We fix them to the rafters with the help of special dowels with a mushroom cap.
• We spread the waterproofing film, starting from the bottom up, with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm, glue the joints with adhesive tape. The film is necessary to protect the material from leaks and condensation.
• We fill the crate of bars with a minimum thickness of 40 mm.
• We install roofing material.

Extruded polystyrene foam does not require any additional protection from the inside.

It is necessary to insulate the gables of the attic room together with the entire facade of the building, i.e. outside. The choice of insulation material depends entirely on the material from which the house is built and the preferences of the owner. For example, if insulation is carried out using a curtain wall system, then mineral wool with vapor barrier and waterproofing films can be used. And if a wet facade is planned, then foam can be laid under it. Do not forget that compliance with technology is the key to success.

Video - how to insulate a mansard roof

The roof is one of the most important structural elements of a building. It is exposed to various environmental factors. Protects the house from high and low temperatures, precipitation, solar radiation. If the roof is not insulated in accordance with building codes, heat loss through the roof can reach a third of the total heat loss of the house. Insulation of a mansard roof is not such a simple process as it might seem, although it is doable with your own hands. If your house has an attic floor, the question will inevitably arise how to insulate the attic roof. Many owners prefer to make an extra room there. First, it increases the total living area of ​​the house. And secondly, there is a new original room. During the construction of modern cottage settlements, attic rooms are planned initially. But even in old houses, you can easily convert the attic with your own hands into a living space.

The insulating material used for the attic roof, in addition to keeping the house warm, protects against acoustic vibrations. Therefore, it is important to decide how best to insulate the attic roof.

First you need to decide how to insulate the roof of your attic. To date, there are many options for thermal insulation materials. Mounting them is easy to do with your own hands.

Thermal insulation should contribute to maintaining a favorable atmosphere in the room. In winter, the house should be kept warm, and in summer - cool.

There are many nuances in the installation of the roof itself. The walls of the attic room are either the gables of the building or the slopes of the roof, or are adjacent to the slopes. That is why the intensive movement of air through the roof begins. Because of this, it is constantly exposed to temperature changes. To avoid the above problem, attic insulation must be carried out in sequence (from the inner layer to the outer layer):

1. Vapor barrier layer.
2. Heat insulating layer.
3. Ventilation gap.
4. waterproof layer.
5. Directly roofing material.

If high-quality insulation of the mansard roof is carried out, then the absence of the above layers is not recommended. Of particular note is the role of the heat-insulating layer and the ventilation gap. It is thanks to the presence of all layers that the microclimate in the attic room is provided.

What to look for when choosing a heater

When choosing a heater, you should first look at thermal conductivity. This is the ability to give and absorb heat between the attic space and the surrounding air. A material with low thermal conductivity is desirable. Firstly, it will contribute to better protection of the house from heat leaks. And secondly, a thin layer of heat-insulating material is required.

Properly insulated attic

On the other hand, if the attic roof is not adequately insulated, problems begin in winter. During the winter months, the roof is covered with a layer of snow. Snow is a good additional heat-insulating layer. But with insufficient insulation with your own hands, heat is lost through the roof. The snow is gradually melting. A layer of ice forms. Ice is unable to retain heat. It has a mechanical effect on structures. Including on the outer covering of the roof. This leads to its wear and gradual destruction. Sometimes because of this, it is required to repair the outer roofing layer after each winter. With sufficient thermal insulation, snow does not melt and does not turn into ice in winter. The roof retains its structure, and the snow provides additional protection against heat loss. In summer, the situation is reversed. Under the influence of direct solar radiation, the roof tends to heat up and a suffocating atmosphere is created. If you lay a layer of insulation in sufficient quantities, this problem will not be, and a comfortable environment is provided in the attic.

The main characteristics of heaters

When deciding how to insulate the attic roof of a house from the inside, in addition to thermal conductivity, it is necessary to pay attention to several more important parameters of the insulating material. The most important characteristics:

• water resistance;
• weight;
• fire safety;
• durability;
• material thickness;
• environmental characteristics;
• terms of operation.

Moisture resistance is usually specified by the manufacturer of a particular material. It is an important parameter, since the roof can leak and get wet. Therefore, it is desirable to choose a material with water-repellent properties. If this is not available for one reason or another, then the layer will have to be additionally waterproofed. The weight of the material is also of great importance. The smaller it is, the better. The total weight of the material is determined based on its relative density. Mineral wool materials should be with a density of 45 to 50 kg / cubic meter. When using fiberglass, the density should be within 20 kg/m3. Heavier materials will put excessive pressure on structures.

Insulating layers must be non-combustible. This is usually reflected in the technical documentation. As for durability, the ability of the insulation to maintain its shape for many years is important. After all, the roof can be multi-pitched. If the insulation is deformed, the roof will simply lose its protective properties.

What materials are popular

It is necessary to disassemble each separately in order to decide how to properly insulate the roof of the attic. Main materials:

• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• glass wool.

The better to insulate the attic roof, you decide. But before that, you need to familiarize yourself with each material.

Styrofoam- this is a sought-after material among people who are faced with the problem of how to properly insulate a mansard roof. It has suitable thermal conductivity, low density and, accordingly, low weight. Polyfoam provides good protection against water, it is quite inexpensive. On the other hand, it has certain disadvantages. Its main disadvantage is the lack of fire safety. Also, when installing with your own hands, it often crumbles. As a result, gaps appear between the rafters. This, in turn, leads to a decrease in the thermal insulation characteristics of the coating. Styrofoam also has a short service life.

Extruded polystyrene foam has the best features. Firstly, it is non-combustible and provides the necessary fire safety. Doesn't crumble over time. Has water repellent properties. The advantage is also that a very thin layer of material is needed. The material is not recommended to insulate living quarters.

polyurethane foam differs from the previous options in the way of laying. This leaves no gaps. The material retains its shape very well. It has the necessary fire safety and repels moisture. The disadvantage of polyurethane foam is the poor ability to pass vapor. Because of this, there may be increased humidity in the attic room. The problem is solved by the organization of adequate ventilation.

Mineral wool and glass wool commonly known as insulating materials. They have many advantages. Excellent fire safety, keep heat well, have a low density. Do not leave cracks and gaps when laying. The material provides excellent sound insulation, has a low price. The disadvantages include high moisture absorption and vapor absorption.

Important: installation of glass wool is carried out in closed clothing, a mask and gloves. Contact of material particles with skin and mucous membranes should be avoided.

Laying heat-insulating material

When insulating the attic, do not forget about hydro and vapor barrier

After selecting the material, it is necessary to prepare the premises for installation. Insulation of the attic roof begins with determining the step of laying the insulation. We must try to ensure that the sheets of insulation fit closely between the roof rafters. This will avoid the formation of gaps and further heat loss. If you are using foam, then this nuance does not matter to you. Waterproofing is laid with an overlap between the rafters and the crate. Then, with the help of screws, wooden panels are installed to provide ventilation. The insulating material itself is mounted directly on the created platform between the rafters.

Tip: the rafters themselves let heat through. It is necessary to lay an additional thin layer of insulating material on top. Be sure to remember the location of the rafters.

This is useful when attaching various structures in the attic room.

Video: brief abstracts of proper thermal insulation with mineral wool insulation

Thus, it is not difficult to insulate the roof. To do this, you need to choose the right material that suits you. And then, in accordance with the technology, mount the insulation. As a result, a favorable climate for living will be created in the attic room.

Many owners of old houses are thinking about expanding their living space at the expense of the attic. However, they immediately wonder what to do if the roof is already covered, but the attic still needs to be insulated. In this case, the decision to carry out insulation work from the inside comes to the rescue.

Peculiarities

The process of insulating the attic from the inside cannot be called easy. To do this, you need to know the specifics of the roofing device, as well as figure out whether your existing roof is suitable for insulation. Indeed, not every attic can be converted into an attic area, especially if the roof is already covered.

There are three situations how a roof can be made:

• Between the rafters and the crate there is only a ventilation gap. In this case, the roof is considered absolutely unsuitable for insulation. You will have to completely disassemble the roof structure in order to insulate it.
• A polyethylene film is laid between the crate and the rafters, which acts as a vapor barrier. Such solutions can be considered optimal, and the roof - fully prepared for subsequent work on its insulation.
• A diffusion membrane is laid between the rafters and the crate. An option similar to the previous one. The presence of a waterproofing layer is evidence that the roof is prepared for insulation from the inside.

Thus, the main feature is the preparedness of the roof for further insulation.

Heaters

Thermal insulation of the roof of a private house, cottage, cottage can be carried out using various means. There are liquid materials, and elastic, and even those that have a relatively high density.

Before proceeding with the choice, be sure to pay attention to the design of the roof. It often happens that not every material is universal, so it's better to play it safe. The simplest example is the insulation of gable and sloping roofs: if almost any heater is suitable for a simple gable structure, then far from everything for a broken one.

If you do not consider liquid heaters, then the rest are sold in two forms - in slabs and in rolls. As you might guess, dense insulation is presented in the plates, and fibrous in rolls.

It should be noted that for insulation from the inside, not all options available on the market are suitable. This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to insulate the attic from the inside due to the existing rafters. This increases the need for leveling cold bridges.

Materials for internal thermal insulation should be considered in more detail.

Styrofoam

Ordinary foam is one of the cheapest materials. It is sold in ready-made plates, which makes it convenient to use. Despite the fact that polystyrene belongs to budgetary thermal insulation solutions, it has many advantages.

So, the foam is not hygroscopic - it absolutely does not absorb water and moisture. To increase the water-repellent characteristics, it is enough to treat it with a special agent., which will clog the pores on the surface, and the water will simply drain over the foam plates.

It should also be borne in mind that the foam has a very low weight due to the presence a large number voids between the granules that make it up. This contributes to the fact that it will be possible to cope with the insulation work alone. Lightness has another advantage, which is to lighten the load on the roof structure.

Styrofoam does not conduct heat well, as a result of which we can safely say that it perfectly insulates the attic. The ease of working with it is another significant advantage of the material: to cut the material, cutting out pieces right size, you can use an ordinary clerical knife.

However, there are also some disadvantages here. Firstly, the foam does not “breathe” at all, which can cause condensation to form. Secondly, the foam is susceptible to damage by pests, in particular rodents. Thirdly, polystyrene cannot be used to decorate wooden floors, since over time the tree will shrink, and gaps will appear between the foam plates.

How to insulate the attic with foam plastic is described in the next video.

Penoizol

Penoizol, or urea-formaldehyde foam, is a liquid version of the foam. The warming solution is prepared immediately before use. Its difference from many other mounting compositions, for example, PPU foam, is that it does not expand during the solidification process, retaining its original appearance and condition.

The mass resembles white foam, similar in appearance to shaving foam.

liquid foam often used to insulate roofs and attics during the construction phase, but can also be applied after the roof has been laid. Among other things, it can be used to additionally insulate the walls and floor of the attic.

The vapor permeability of the material, like that of a dense counterpart, is almost at zero, which makes it mandatory to take care of decent roof ventilation. However, the material does not conduct heat, therefore, it copes with its main function - thermal insulation - perfectly well. So if you do all the work properly, thermal insulation with penoizol will be a worthy and budget solution.

Extruded polystyrene foam or foam

Despite the fact that polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam belong to the same group, the second is more practical. This is largely due to the specifics of the installation. So, expanded polystyrene closes the rafters, which is why better tightness is achieved. Expanded polystyrene plates are easily fixed to each other with glue. Due to the low weight, installation can be done independently.

The material has a long service life, while it does not rot and is not attacked by rodents. The only serious drawback is the flammability of the material. You will have to take care of additional insulation of electrical wiring, because one spark can lead to a strong fire.

If no communications are planned to be carried out to the attic, polystyrene foam will be an excellent choice, especially considering that it can be covered with any finishing material. It is also compatible with wood, metal and any roof covering.

mineral wool

Mineral wool often acts as an alternative to foam. This material refers to rolled, which is due to the convenience of laying heat insulators supplied in this way. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure, which radically affects some of its properties.

So, mineral wool is an elastic material that is attached between the rafters. Wherein additional mounts will not be required it is enough just to cut the slabs of cotton wool 2-3 cm wider than the portal into which the insulation will be inserted.

Rodents do not encroach on cotton wool, so you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the insulation layer. Mineral wool, however, belongs to the category of environmentally friendly heaters. Among other things, it guarantees excellent thermal insulation, despite the fact that it does not absorb moisture, and even if it gets wet, it will dry in record time. Also, it is better to use fibrous material if it is necessary to additionally soundproof the attic from the surrounding street noise.

Read more about attic insulation with mineral wool in the next video.

glass wool

Glass wool is one of the varieties of mineral wool, but there is a difference. First of all, it is worth noting that the materials are made from different fibers. This is where fiberglass is used. Due to this, the material is more elastic and durable. In addition, glass wool has the best sound-absorbing characteristics. At the same time, it is hydrophobic - it absorbs moisture well, but dries poorly, as a result of which, when wet, it quickly loses its operational properties.

Many fear that using glass wool for thermal insulation purposes within a living space will lead to harmful effects. Actually it is not. If done correctly Finishing work, no harm will be caused to health. On the contrary, glass wool is even safer than styrofoam because it does not burn.

However, the material requires care when laying it. It will be necessary to take all safety measures, protecting the organs of vision, respiratory tract and skin from glass dust.

stone wool

Among all insulating wool, stone wool is more expensive than analogues, and all thanks to its special properties. Compared to others, it is itself safe and practically devoid of the shortcomings inherent in other samples. It is the most environmentally friendly of all, is not afraid of elevated temperatures, as it does not ignite, and also does not deform under the influence of heat.

Stone wool perfectly retains all extraneous sounds, while its sound-absorbing characteristics are an order of magnitude higher than those of other wools. Another advantage is the good vapor permeability of the material. It “breathes”, so condensation cannot form on it.

Stone wool can last for a long time. Such good performance properties are due not only to the strength properties of the material, but also to its ability to resist mechanical stress. Even if it is compressed, it does not deform.

Cotton wool is sold in the form of soft slabs, which are easy to cut into the desired formats if necessary. The only existing drawback is the high price, but the material is worth the money.

Ecowool

Ecowool is very different from other cotton wool in the form of sale. If other analogues are supplied in rolls or slabs, then ecowool is first crushed, and then applied by scattering the material using special equipment. It is believed that in this way it will better clog all existing cracks, forming a monolithic insulating coating.

There are two drawbacks here. First, you need to apply ecowool with the help of special tools. Secondly, the cost of the material also cannot be called democratic.

polyurethane foam

Foamed polyurethane foam also needs to be applied using special devices, which are quite expensive.

To avoid unprofitable spending on the purchase, it is easier to lease equipment - to rent.

The use of equipment and the application technology itself are quite complex, therefore, when working with the material, it is necessary to have at least some experience and knowledge on this issue.

Polyurethane foam is most similar to polyurethane foam, since it has a similar principle of operation. It expands in the same way when it solidifies, completely closing all the cracks and gaps through which cold wind can penetrate or precious heat can escape. After hardening, the material becomes monolithic and smooth. This feature of it indicates that it does not absorb moisture, so you can do without the construction of additional hydro and vapor barrier layers.

All this makes foamed polyurethane foam perfect choice regardless of what material the roof and floors are made of. The best solution when working with him is to invite a team of specialists who will perform the installation in a few hours on their equipment, doing everything in compliance with the technology.

Penofol

Penofol is a one-of-a-kind foil insulation. It is produced in the form of polyethylene foam boards, covered with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. Aluminum reflects heat back into the room, so heat loss is kept to a minimum.

However, it is important to ensure that the foil side is turned inside the room and not outside when laying.

Penofol is absolutely safe for humans and animals, although it is not a natural material. Due to the aluminum coating, it does not conduct heat, which gives grounds to assert the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. Among other things, it may not be necessary to make a vapor barrier for this material, since, with proper installation, it does an excellent job of vapor barrier itself due to its special texture.

If you plan to operate the attic for permanent residence, then choosing penofol, you will not regret it.

Room preparation

Having decided to insulate the attic from the inside, you first need to properly prepare the room itself for work. Keep in mind that not every attic is suitable for insulation. Check if the ceiling height is 2.5 m in more than 50% of the area of ​​the entire attic. If not, then you should not deal with warming - it will still be impossible to live here.

Next, dismantle all existing sheathing material, exposing the rafters. Installation of insulation will be carried out either on top of them or between them. Check the condition of the roof, as well as the presence of vapor and waterproofing layers. Keep in mind that the roof, which has smudges, must first be fixed, and only after that you can proceed to the insulation work.

It is important that they are in good condition, have no gaps, except for ventilation.

vapor barrier

Creating an attic floor for winter residence, especially if the winters in your area are harsh, the first step is to check the presence of a vapor barrier. As a rule, it is done immediately when the roof is mounted, even if they do not plan to use the space under it as an additional room in the future. If there is no vapor barrier, then the roof will have to be redone from the outside, dismantling roofing materials. Unfortunately, it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside, because it must lie between the rafters and the counter-lattice.

Various materials can be used to create a vapor barrier. All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, as well as the specifics of combinations with insulating materials. All this must be borne in mind when moving on to insulation work, so it makes sense to dwell on vapor barrier materials in more detail.

In addition, it will help you make a choice if the roof of your house does not yet have a vapor barrier.

Polyethylene film

Despite the cheapness of the material, many builders strongly discourage its use. This is due to the fact that it is unsuitable for creating a vapor barrier layer in Russian realities. The material does not "breathe" at all: it does not let in not only moisture, but also air, and this creates problems with circulation and, accordingly, the greenhouse effect. So, the condensate cannot evaporate and, flowing down, falls on the thermal insulation.

Therefore, if in your house the vapor barrier is still made using plastic film, refuse to buy water-absorbing heaters, such as glass wool.

Over time, the film tends to collapse and crack, so after a short period of time you still have to completely disassemble everything in order to replace the fragile material that has served its purpose.

glassine

Glassine is suitable for both steam and waterproofing, so it has received universal recognition. However, it is necessary to act here in two directions. Firstly, a layer of glassine will need to be laid between the roof and the counter-lattice, and secondly, on the insulation from the side of the room. If all work is done correctly, this guarantees reliable protection and an optimal microclimate in the attic. Above, between the roofing and the counter-lattice, a double layer of glassine should be laid.. Only then can the optimum effect be achieved.

Glassine is more needed to protect the insulation from moisture, so any one can be chosen as an insulating material. Try to choose options that do not deform under the influence of temperature changes, and are also not subject to attack by rodents. Both cotton options and penoplex are perfect.

Ruberoid

Roofing material has been used as a vapor barrier since the times of the USSR, so in old houses you can find just such material between the roof and rafters. However, if possible, such a layer will need to be dismantled. This is due to the fact that the roofing material is a rotting material, and in accordance with the standards it cannot be used for hydro and vapor barrier in buildings with a long service life.

If it is decided to leave the roofing material, then you should not expect good vapor barrier qualities from it. For this it is better to lay an additional layer of special vapor barrier material, at least the same polyethylene film.

It should be borne in mind that condensation may accumulate on the roofing material from the inside, which will lead to wetting of the insulation. So, if the insulation is temporary (for example, it is carried out in winter, and everything is planned to be redone in the spring), then foam plastic can also be combined with roofing material.

Izospan

The material isospan consists of polypropylene. It is one of the most recommended for the construction of vapor barrier due to the fact that it was designed only for these purposes.

Izospan collects condensate and further prevents it from getting on the heater. The two-sided texture of the material is responsible for this. On the one hand it is smooth, and on the other - a little rough. On the rough side, drops of condensate linger and evaporate. With the help of isospan, they vaporize not only the roof, but also the walls of the attic.

Depending on the properties of isospan, markings differ. The most expensive, but materials with the effect of energy saving FB, FS, FD, FX are considered effective. They have a foil coating that reflects heat back into the room, thereby reducing heat loss to almost nothing. At the same time, the special texture still prevents condensate from rolling off and spoiling the insulation.

waterproofing membrane

You should not attribute to waterproofing membranes all the same properties that are inherent in specialized vapor barrier films. Indeed, both of them collect and evaporate condensate, but the main task of waterproofing membranes is to protect the house from moisture, not steam. In addition, waterproofing membranes have a wider range of applications, from insulating attics and basements to protecting swimming pools.

Waterproofing membranes are available in different types. There is diffusion, superdiffusion, and also anti-condensate, which is more suitable than others for a vapor barrier role. If you find, having disassembled the sheathing material, one of these membranes, consider yourself very lucky.

You can lay any insulation without fear that it will get wet and quickly lose its qualities. In addition, the microclimate in the attic will be excellent.

Penofol

Penofol is both an insulating and a vapor barrier material. However, it can only be laid when a waterproofing membrane is found between the roof and the rafters.

The reflective foil surface itself will collect condensate and help it evaporate, but the second “bare” side must be well protected from moisture. Only in this case, the variety will cope with both steam and thermal insulation.

Material consumption

The calculation of the material is made at the stage of inspecting the roof for damage. Here it is important to consider the pitch between the rafters and the distance between the vapor barrier and the interior space. The number and thickness of the plates depends on the internal space: whether the thermal insulation will be laid in one layer or in several. The size of the plates depends on the distance between the rafters.

Please note that if the step between the rafters is more than 60 cm, then it will be necessary to independently prepare an additional crateto make the fixing of thermal insulation possible.

As for the sprayed heaters, in this case it will be necessary to calculate the volume. Beforehand, it will be necessary to clarify such data as the estimated thickness of the heat-insulating layer, the perimeter of the rooms and the height of the walls, as well as the density of the insulation. We must not forget about the presence of windows and doors. It is best to use a special calculator.

Warming scheme

Since when insulating the attic, the roof is mainly insulated, it makes sense to consider the scheme of laying layers only for it.

Starting from the outside, the cake will look like this:

• On top is the roofing material, which is not touched. Under it are a crate and a counter-crate, which serve as a frame.
• Next comes a layer of hydro and vapor barrier, which is also the original one.
• A layer of insulation is laid out under the waterproofing. Depending on the width of the step between the rafters, an additional crate can be built here.
• From the side of the room, a vapor barrier layer is attached to protect the insulation.
• Finally, finishing is done.

How to insulate with your own hands?

To insulate the attic with your own hands from the inside, you need to keep in mind the layout of the layers one after another, and also follow the following step-by-step instructions:

• It is necessary to retreat a little from the existing waterproofing layer, leaving an air opening. This will allow the insulation to "breathe".
• After that, the heater is installed. Depending on the material, it can be laid between the rafters or on them, as well as sprayed. How it is necessary to handle this or that insulating material is written in the instructions for it.
• Next, install a vapor barrier film. If a gap between it and the insulation is possible, then the connection to the walls, ceiling and, in the case of an attic, to the floor must be airtight. Otherwise, condensation will form on the side of the film that is turned towards the insulation, and this should not be so.
• At the last stage, the finishing. There are many options to choose from, but drywall, clapboard, or MDF boards are usually purchased.

• it is better to buy cotton wool insulation not in rolls, but in mats, so they do not need time to “track down”;
• to insulate the floor, you need to choose foam or other inexpensive material;
• the insulation does not need additional fixing, however, if anything, you can use nails, adhesive tape or construction stapler.

To ensure a comfortable stay in the attic during the year, the owners of the house need to purchase quality look insulation and mount it, taking into account all the nuances. The roofing cake will only last a long time if the attic roof is properly insulated.

Features of mansard roof insulation

If the technology for arranging insulation is observed, a microclimate favorable for human habitation is created indoors. On cold days, it will be warm and comfortable, and in hot weather, the air will not overheat due to the presence of thermal insulation.

Before insulating the roof of the attic, it does not hurt the homeowner to understand the features of the arrangement of the roofing pie and purchase quality tools and building materials.

The process of thermal insulation of attic roof structures has much in common with the insulation of other types of roofs for private houses, but they are subject to special requirements. This is due to the fact that the walls of such premises either closely adjoin the slopes, or are formed by the slopes of the roof and the gables of the structure. As a result, the air in the attic gets too hot on hot days, and cools down quickly on cold days.

The structure of the roofing pie of the attic roof in the direction from the inner layer to the outer looks like this:

• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• ventilation gap;
• waterproofing;
• finishing material.

The presence of all of the above layers, according to the attic roof insulation technology, is mandatory, since each of them performs a specific function.

How to insulate the roof of the attic correctly

Increased attention should be paid to ventilation and thermal insulation, since the quality of their arrangement depends on how comfortable it will be on the attic floor. When choosing a heater, thermal conductivity is taken into account - it means the ability to direct heat into the room and in the opposite direction.

The lower this indicator, the better the material will be able to protect the attic from the loss of thermal energy. This means that to ensure the desired level of thermal insulation of the roof, it will be possible to mount a smaller layer of insulation.

Most of the heat in a heated room is lost through the roof, since the heated air always rises. It penetrates through the layers of the roofing cake and moves in the direction of the coating, on which winter time there is a layer of snow.

At sub-zero air temperatures (less than 2 degrees), snow, due to its porous structure and the presence of internal air pockets, performs the function of an external heat insulator.

If the heat loss due to the roof is large, the coating material is very hot, and the snow layers begin to melt. Then, as the temperature drops, the resulting water turns into ice. The presence of a frozen crust is very dangerous for the roof surface - the load on the roof structure increases significantly. When the mansard roof is properly insulated from the inside, the snow does not begin to melt on it in frosty weather.

In the summer heat, excess heat gets into the attic from the roof, and even the air conditioner will not help to ensure a comfortable temperature in the room. This problem can be avoided by installing a high-quality thermal insulation layer from the inside of the roof. Of course, in the attic floor the air temperature will be higher than in the rooms located below, but this circumstance will not cause discomfort.

Mansard roof ventilation device

Roof insulation above the attic needs a special approach, which is explained by the peculiarities of its design. Ventilation of a standard roof is provided by the presence of an attic equipped with dormer windows. As for the attic, its ventilation space is only 10-15 centimeters.

When arranging such a roof during the installation of the roof pie, it is important to correctly make the ventilation gap. This space between the layers of waterproofing and insulation should facilitate the removal of excess moisture and prevent overheating of the roof in winter and, as a result, the appearance of an ice crust.

As a result of the arrangement of ventilation, the entire structure will be provided with protection that will prolong operational period roof elements. On hot days, due to the presence of a gap, heat is partially removed from under the roof - this circumstance helps the air in the attic not to overheat.

The choice of thermal insulation material

In preparation for laying a roofing pie, before insulating an attic with a sloping roof, you need to choose high-quality material. The thickness of the future insulation and the number of layers of insulation depend on its technical parameters. On the domestic market of building materials there is a huge selection of products for roofing.

Among them, the most popular are:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• glass wool;
• polyurethane foam.

In some cases, foam glass may be used. For internal insulation, natural materials such as wood chips, seaweed and others.

Priority in choosing

When choosing a heat insulator, several technical characteristics are taken into account:

• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• environmental friendliness;
• fire resistance;
• moisture resistance.

Experts consider the best choice for insulating a mansard roof to be a material with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.05 W per square meter or less.

The higher the moisture resistance index of the insulation, the longer it will last without loss of functional qualities. An important parameter is the environmental friendliness of the material. For the fire safety of housing, its resistance to fire is of great importance.

Such insulation as mineral wool is produced from molten rocks. It retains heat excellently, is resistant to temperature changes and aggressive environments, does not rot, weakly absorbs moisture. Mats of this material can have different thicknesses, so they are convenient to use when arranging the thermal insulation of a mansard roof.

Molten glass is used to make glass wool. According to its characteristics, this type of insulation has much in common with mineral wool, but it has a thermal threshold below -450 ° C. It is a good sound and heat insulator. But moisture can collect between its fibers, so installation work should be done correctly.

Glass wool and mineral wool are inexpensive, and insulation with their use will cost minimal financial costs. But their use requires laying a thick layer of thermal insulation and a reliable device for hydro- and vapor barrier.

To insulate the roof structure from the inside, polymeric materials are also used. For example, the advantages of polyurethane foam are a high degree of heat retention, durability, low weight. It does not pass steam and is resistant to moisture. See also: "How to insulate a mansard roof - the choice of materials and the rules of insulation."

Expanded polystyrene can very effectively insulate the attic without removing the roof. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.05 W/m²K. It is a hydrophobic material that does not allow steam to pass through. Expanded polystyrene can have a flammability class G1 - G4. By the way, polymeric heaters are expensive artificial materials. Therefore, they are not used when they want to build a house only from environmentally friendly products.

It should be noted that natural heaters have good thermal conductivity, but they also have disadvantages. For example, foamed glass is very brittle, and materials such as mats made from straw and reeds, granulated paper, are highly flammable. It is necessary to know how a mansard roof is insulated with natural heat insulators, and to possess the appropriate skills.

Thermal insulation technology

For high-quality installation of insulation when installing a roofing pie, you need to study step by step instructions performance of construction work.

The process of insulating a roof on a house consists of a series of steps:

• preparation for laying insulation;
• installation of thermal insulation;
• fastening material.

The phased arrangement of insulation is as follows:

1. During the development of the project for the construction of the truss structure, it is necessary to determine the installation step of the rafters. At the same time, one should not forget that it should turn out to be strong and reliable, and the gap between the rafter legs cannot exceed the standard values. In the case when the heat-insulating material has already been selected, the rafters are mounted so that the insulation boards fit tightly between them. This technology greatly simplifies installation and minimizes the amount of waste building materials.
2. A layer of waterproofing is mounted between the rafters and the crate above the thermal insulation. Her canvases are overlapped, starting work from the bottom edge of the slope. Each subsequent row should overlap the previous layer by 15 centimeters. The film is fixed on the tree with a construction stapler. Then counter rails are attached, the thickness of which provides a ventilation gap of sufficient size. The slats are fixed on the rafters with self-tapping screws, although nails can also be used.
3. From the inside of a fully prepared truss structure, the insulation is laid and securely fixed.

The nuances of warming a sloping roof

Rafter legs, which are made of wood or metal, are cold bridges, since their thermal conductivity is worse than that of the heat-insulating materials used. Given this circumstance, when arranging the attic, it is necessary to install a heater not only between the rafters. It is necessary to place a continuous layer of thermal insulation on top of the laid mats, but in this case a thinner material is used.

The above technology improves the quality of insulation. But this method has disadvantages, these include the fact that as a result the rafters are completely closed and it will be difficult to use them to fix other elements of the roof structure. To ensure further installation work, it is necessary to note the location of the rafters.

A vapor-permeable film is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer, which performs the function of removing excess moisture. Next, the crate is attached. At the final stage of thermal insulation work, the inner lining of the ceiling surface is produced.

The precise implementation of the instructions on how to insulate the sloping roof of the attic allows you to use the living space throughout the year, since a favorable microclimate will be created in it.

Self-insulation of the mansard roof is quite feasible, but for this it is necessary to fulfill the requirements for this type of roofing work.

Mansard roof insulation: how to insulate, thermal insulation device, attic insulation technology with a sloping roof

Mansard roof insulation: how to insulate, thermal insulation device, attic insulation technology with a sloping roof

Mansard roof insulation

If the attic remains non-residential, the air in the under-roof space serves as good thermal insulation (along with floor insulation). In the case of the attic, everything is completely different: here the thermal insulation is very close to the roofing material and the task is not only to insulate the attic, but also to create conditions for the entire roofing system to serve for a long time.

Insulation of a sloping mansard-type roof must be carried out according to certain rules

Let's say right away that all the wood that is used in the construction of the roof must be treated with antiseptics. Indeed, everything: both battens and counter-battens, and rafters. All wooden parts. It is also necessary to make them less flammable. To do this, they are treated with flame retardants. All elements that are located on the side of the street are treated with compounds for outdoor work. Treat all wooden parts facing the inside of the room with impregnations for internal works. If you use the composition for outdoor use indoors, the specific smell will remain for several years. If the opposite is true, the wood on the outside may suffer: the degree of protection is insufficient. So don't skimp on this.

More. Before describing how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands, it is worth recalling this: a ventilation system must be organized in the under-roof space. For this, special ventilation holes are arranged on the skate. Through them, the air from under the roofing material escapes, carrying away excess moisture. And it must fall under the roofing through the overhangs. There absolutely can not be done all hermetically. That's where the air comes from. Only in this way will the condensate dry out in a timely manner and the roof will serve for a long time.

In order for the insulation to be correct and moisture to be removed in a timely manner, it is necessary to move air masses under the roofing material

Proper attic insulation

To keep the attic floor warm in winter and cool in summer, there were no problems with high humidity, icicles did not freeze on the roof, it is necessary to properly insulate the roof. But in the case of a roof, insulation, vapor and waterproofing are a complex solution, and one without the other works very poorly, or does not work at all.

If the sloping roof is at the same time the walls of the attic floor, the pie will be as follows (from inside to outside):

• internal lining (drywall or lining);
• crate;
• vapor barrier;
• insulation (the thickness of the insulation depends on the region and the parameters of the insulation, for central Russia it is about 200 mm);
• superdiffusion membrane;
• ventilation gap;
• crate;
• roofing.

How to insulate a mansard roof: a sequence of layers of a sloping roof for a living space

The photo shows the insulation of a broken mansard roof in a graphical version. Please note: a superdiffusion membrane is laid over the insulation (marked blue color). Its purpose is to prevent condensate formed or precipitation seeping through the roofing from entering the insulation and removing the steam that nevertheless got into the mineral wool, ensuring its drying. Therefore, with a vapor permeability of 1500 g / m 2. This layer is often called waterproofing (as it is, in fact, it is), only waterproofing is vapor-permeable.

Laying waterproofing

Ideally, it fits exactly as shown in the figure: wrapping the rafters and closely fitting on the insulation. Often, to save money, they roll it out over the rafters, but without pulling it, but making it sag by 3-5 cm. This option also works well: moisture gets on the surface, and then rolls down and out of the roof. Here is another important point: the membrane must go into the gutter. Then the moisture will be removed from the under-roof space.

You can also lay waterproofing like this: with a slight sag, but definitely NOT pulling it

A few more points on laying the membrane. It rolls across the rafters, starting from the bottom. The first row is launched into the gutter. The next one is rolled out with an overlap of 10-15 cm. And so on until the ridge. On the ridge, the membranes are cut off on both sides along the upper edge and fixed. A strip rolls along the ridge, descending from one and the other side of the roof. It turns out a coating through which water flows down to the gutter itself.

Vapor barrier and rules for its installation

It is worth talking separately about the vapor barrier. It must also be a membrane. Polyethylene or polypropylene film will not work: its characteristics are not the same. The vapor permeability of this layer (expressed in g/m2) should be as low as possible. Ideally, it is equal to zero. That is, this layer should not allow vapors to pass from the room into the insulation layer. When using mineral wool as insulation, this is very important: when wet, it loses more than half of its properties, and when it freezes in a wet state and then melts, it generally crumbles into dust.

Therefore, the vapor barrier film is also laid with the entry of one panel onto another. Moreover, these joints are glued with a special double-sided vapor-tight tape (it looks like sticky rubber). Ordinary painting or stationery will not work. They do not provide 100% vapor protection. In addition to the joints, all junctions are also glued: from below, from the sides, from above.

A line is drawn on the vapor barrier. It marks the border from which the next layer starts (this is the amount of overlap) and the line along which the canvases are fastened with adhesive tape

The vapor barrier is usually attached to the lags with stapler brackets or, as in the figure, with planks of the inner crate for mounting the skin. In this case, another ventilation gap is formed, which will dry the finish and the membrane. This clearance is desirable but not required. In principle, the lining can be mounted directly on top of the membrane.

thermal insulation

The better to insulate a sloping roof - the question is complex and there is no unambiguous answer to it. Mineral wool is used, only hard, with a density of 30-50 kg / m 3. Since the attic roof usually has a large angle of inclination, then soft materials can slide. It is for this reason that it is better to take plates. Although in this case it will be necessary to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the dimensions of the insulation: it should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the plate so that the material becomes “spread” between the beams and holds well.

It is necessary to lay thermal insulation in such a way that there are as few cold bridges as possible. For central Russia, usually 200-250 mm of mineral wool is required. These are several layers of mats. When laying between the rafters, the slabs are positioned so that the seams of one row overlap the next. The width of the insulation, as already mentioned, should be slightly wider than the distance between the rafters. Then the plate becomes dense, excluding the presence of cracks. If the width is more/less, you have to cut the material. At the same time, the chance to get a smooth edge is small and there are many residues.

If the dimensions of the rafter do not allow laying the entire insulation, planks of the required thickness are stuffed across from the side of the room. Between them lay the remnants of insulation. From above, a vapor barrier is already attached to it and, if necessary, a crate for finishing. This option is even better: cold bridges are completely excluded, blocking even the rafters. This method requires a little more installation costs, but it will definitely be warmer in the attic, which will reduce heating costs.

How to insulate a mansard roof: the order of work

The device of the attic floor is good because it allows you to stretch the end of construction. It is immediately necessary to lay and fix the superdiffusion membrane on the rafters, the crate and roofing material on it. And attic insulation can be done from the inside after a while.

But pay attention: the waterproofing layer must be mounted together with the roofing. This is the main mistake of many developers: they do not lay this membrane. As a result, either it is necessary to remove the roof and lay it, or to invent systems to correct this shortcoming. The whole problem is that in this case there is no cheap solution that guarantees the normal state of the materials.

We warm outside

If you do everything at once, the order of work is as follows:

• from the side of the room, a crate is stuffed across the rafters - thermal insulation will lie on it, instead of a crate, a cord or galvanized wire is sometimes attached;
• heat-insulating material is laid on it from the side of the roof (according to all the rules, shifting the seams, making sure that there are no gaps);
• a superdiffusion membrane is rolled over the thermal insulation;
• crate is stuffed;
• roofing is laid;
• from the side of the room, a vapor barrier is fixed and glued;
• with or without crate mount trim.

Insulation of the mansard roof from the outside: it is not difficult to work, the thermal insulation is laid on the crate lined from below

With this option, it is not difficult to work with a heater: it is easy to lay it, it relies on a crate (laces).

Warming from the inside

This option allows you to move the interior decoration for the required period (useful if there is a shortage of funds). After installing the truss system, here's what you need to do:

• roll out and fix the waterproofing;
• stuff the crate (if necessary, a counter-crate);
• install roofing material.

That's it for the first step necessary work. After the opportunity to continue, you will need to insulate the mansard roof from the inside. It will no longer be so convenient to work: you will have to make a building envelope that will not allow you to push the insulation higher than necessary. The cotton wool itself will have to be fixed in some way: it strives to fall on the head. The order of work is as follows:

• between the lags in increments of 40-50 cm, stuff the strips that will hold the thermal insulation, providing the required ventilation gap;
• thermal insulation of the required thickness is laid and fixed (the rules remain the same);
• a crate is nailed to hold the layers of insulation;
• a vapor barrier membrane is laid and glued;
• the crate and finishing material is mounted.

If you use plates, then it is also easy to insulate the attic from the inside.

A few notes on how you can lay the heat-insulating material. If these are high-density mineral wool mats and their width is a little more than the step between the lags, everything is relatively simple: they themselves hold up well.

If rolled mineral wool is laid, everything is more difficult. Making the insulation of the mansard roof from the inside, it is laid from the bottom up. Take a string, a construction stapler. Roll out the cotton wool, press it against the planks, fasten a piece of lace with staples, drawing the letter Z. This is how you fix the first layer, followed by the second and all subsequent ones.

In general, if you want the mansard roof to be warm, it is better to use mineral wool mats of the required density of 30-50 kg / m 3. They are tough enough to hold their shape well. Softer rolled materials on vertical surfaces or with a large slope are caked, settling down, the thermal insulation of the mansard roof deteriorates.

These are the consequences of laying mineral wool rolls of insufficient density

What is the best way to insulate a mansard roof

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating a mansard roof is mineral wool. It is good, but not at all ideal: it is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

Sheathe the roof with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Styrofoam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but when burned, it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing grades (with special additives). Here they are better for roof insulation for roof insulation.

The main advantage of foam: low price. It is mounted simply: it is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed with mounting foam. It is convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with foam plastic: order the plates of the right size - 10-15 mm more than the gap between the rafters - and put them tightly. Due to the elasticity, they hold very well.

From the side of the roof, a ventilation gap is also left and waterproofing is laid. But it protects more a wooden structure, since polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, it practically does not absorb it itself, it does not conduct steam. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material of the pair does not pass through, it is necessary in the attic good system ventilation, and this is an additional cost.

XPS has best performance: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of polystyrene. It also has a system of locks, which reduces the risk of cracks, through which heat will fly away. Another plus: mice and insects do not like extruded polystyrene foam, fungi and mold do not multiply on it. What limits its use: a solid price. You also need a ventilation system.

EPPS brands - Ekstrol, STEREKS, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX (PRIMAPLEX), Styrofoam (Stirofoam), KINPLAST (KINPLAST), Teploizolit, GREENPLEX (GREENPLEX). While the technology is the same, there are some differences in performance, so compare when choosing.

Not so long ago, a new type of insulation appeared: expanded polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, multiplying in size, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is perhaps the only way for today to correct the situation and insulate the attic with high quality, if during installation roofing forgot to put a layer of waterproofing.

This is the process of insulation with expanded polystyrene foam (left) and what happened as a result. Excess is trimmed to the level of the lag

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W / m² ° C), but a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition is poured. In the case of a mansard roof, the side parts are rafters, sheet material (fiberboard, GVL, plywood, etc.) is nailed to them from below and from above.

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which loosened cotton wool comes out under pressure. It fills all the cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The process of insulating a mansard roof with ecowool

The main advantage of ecowool compared to all the heaters described above is that it conducts steam. It can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume, and then give it away. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated in a natural way, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be all the same, as well as the properly organized movement of air masses in it.

this information is the most understandable and compact. I want to insulate the roof, which partially covers the second floor. Approximately 1.7 m along the upper vaults of the 2nd floor. ventilation gap. In winter there was condensation, mold has gone in places. I will do the insulation according to your recommendations. The question arises with the attic. Leave it uninsulated or insulate it together with the vaults of the 2nd floor. they advised to install 6 aerators in the ridge. The attic area is about 80 m². I want to ask if this will help? Or leave the attic cold and deaf? In other words, the air through the ventilation gaps will rise to the attic and go into the cracks on the ridge. it is covered with clapboard. I think to drill holes around the perimeter around the entire eaves for air flow. Your opinion, if it doesn’t make it difficult. Thank you

If you do not plan to use the attic as a living space, it is quite possible to leave it cold. Then it will be easier to make ventilation. Everything turns out exactly as you intended - aerators will provide natural ventilation attic space. At the same time, exhaust ventilation ducts can not be taken out to the roof, but stopped in the attic. From here, through the aerators, the polluted air will leave itself. In this case, the problem of overgrowing the channels with ice disappears.

Attic insulation: inside, outside, materials

It is always tempting to use an attic space for living. For comfortable conditions, it is necessary to insulate the attic room. It can be done inside and out, using different materials.

Mansard roof insulation instructions

The dimensions of the attic, as a rule, are limited by roof structures. And often the attic is not protected by load-bearing walls with digestible thermal insulation. Therefore, the insulation of the mansard roof must be carried out especially carefully.

Mansard roof in the process of insulation

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic roof

Self-insulation of the attic roof is quite feasible. However, it is necessary to remember the requirements for the design of such a roof:

• mansard roofing involves the use of lightweight materials to reduce the load on the truss system. For example, natural tiles are inappropriate for her;
• for insulation and insulation of the mansard roof, you should also choose effective lightweight materials, which will reduce the weight of the structure;
• Ventilation plays an important role in the attic roofing system. Any puncture in the development or installation will lead to an increase in the level of humidity in the living room, a decrease in the properties of the insulation and damage to the elements of the supporting structure.

Mansard roof insulation technology

Roof insulation of this type can be carried out in two ways: from the inside and outside. Each of the methods has its advantages and disadvantages, however, external thermal insulation is considered the preferred method due to higher results.

Mansard roof insulation from the outside

Private house with an attic floor in the process of insulation from the outside

Installation of thermal insulation for a mansard roof is quite simple and comes down to preparing the working space, laying and fixing materials:

1. We hem the lower part of the rafters with plywood, OSB or edged board.
2. We lay a vapor barrier layer on top. Its canvases and joints with the structure must be glued with foil tape. When installing this layer, it is important not to confuse the side of the material: the vapor barrier functions in one direction.
3. The next layer is insulation. When laying it, it is important not to leave voids.
4. Next, we spread a hydrobarrier over the rafters. We also glue the strips of material with special tape.
5. Then you need to make a ventilation gap. To do this, a rail with a height depending on the type of roofing is mounted on the hydrobarrier along the rafters. A wavy roof involves a rail of 20-30 mm, a flat one - 50 mm.
6. At the last stage, the crate and roofing are installed.

Mansard roof insulation from the inside

The photo shows a mansard roof in the process of insulation from the inside

The internal insulation of the attic roof, although it seems to be a more rational method (given the protection of the room from precipitation), still has a number of disadvantages:

• most heaters are simply inconvenient to mount from the bottom up, and laying out and fixing rolled materials is almost impossible;
• often the truss system is reinforced with various connections and girders, at the junction points of which voids remain unprotected by thermal insulation. This forms cold bridges, respectively, the insulation of the mansard roof does not work well.

The internal thermal insulation of the mansard roof is as follows:

1. Starting from the lower edge of the roof, we lay out the waterproofing film with an overlap, fasten the edges with adhesive tape. At the walls, this coating should have a small margin, and the excess after completion installation work are removed.
2. To ensure the ventilation gap, as well as a high-quality fit of the film to the roofing material, we nail counter-battens to the rafters with nails.
3. Then we lay out the insulation tightly, without gaps, for example, mineral wool.
4. Further, the entire space is sewn up with a vapor barrier membrane. It is fixed with overlapping construction brackets.

Insulation of the mansard roof with foam

One of the options for insulating a mansard roof using foam

Styrofoam (or expanded polystyrene) is one of the most popular heaters, which is used for thermal insulation of foundations, facades and mansard roofs. If you don’t know how to best insulate your mansard roof with foam, read our instructions, which describe all the steps step by step.

This material has an impressive number of advantages:

• low cost;
• sufficiently high resistance to stretching and compression;
• light weight;
• wear resistance (resistance to mechanical stress and temperature extremes);
• high rates of moisture and fire resistance;
• easy installation;
• service life from 25 to 80 years.

Insulation of the attic roof with foam plastic is done as follows:

1. We remove protruding screws and nails from the wooden elements of the roof structure;
2. We lay a waterproofing film on the rafters, fasten it with furniture stapler. If we are talking about a finished building, the film is not laid on the rafters, but through additional slats.
3. Then, foam sheets are laid out between the rafters, each of which is adjusted with a knife to fit tightly and eliminate gaps. You can fix the insulation with wooden slats, glue or special dowels with wide caps.

Mansard roof insulation scheme using Yutafol vapor barrier as an example

Insulation of a broken mansard roof

Due to its characteristics, a broken mansard roof must be properly insulated:

1. The vapor barrier is mounted from the inside of the attic room with a solid carpet. Joints are sealed with special adhesive tape;

On the video you can see the process of warming the attic with a broken type of roof

Mansard roof insulation materials

The choice of material for the thermal insulation of the mansard roof depends primarily on climatic conditions your region. Given the thermal properties, each insulation has its own necessary heat-insulating layer.

One of the best options for insulating the attic from the inside is polyurethane foam. The photo shows the installation process of this material.

Consider heaters by popularity:

• The most common and high-quality mansard roof insulation is basalt wool. Its installation is carried out in two layers, with overlapping joints. Most regions require laying a layer of 150-200 mm;
• the next most popular is polystyrene foam. Its required thickness is determined by the characteristics of the brand of the product;
• modified mounting foam - polyurethane foam. This material allows you to solve the problem of roof insulation from the inside. It can be applied in smaller layers due to its thermal properties. It also has a high level of adhesion and fills the voids of the structure well;
• contrary to popular belief, Ursu is not recommended for use as a mansard roof insulation. The layer of this material necessary for thermal insulation is almost impossible to fix. In addition, after a while it can “roll” down the structure if the mounting surface is inclined.

From this video you will learn how to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands using available materials. The necessary diagrams and sketches are also included.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a mansard roof is a fairly easy process that does not require high professional training and expensive materials. Basic knowledge in the field of construction and skillful hands will allow you to insulate and decorate any mansard roof with high quality and for a long time.

Mansard roof insulation technology - tips on how to properly insulate from the inside with your own hands, materials and diagram, video

Information article about the insulation of the mansard roof: technology, materials, thermal insulation of a sloping roof, foam insulation.