Reinforced film for greenhouses: how to choose, properties, application of the material. How to securely cover a simple greenhouse with a film with your own hands? How to stretch the film on the greenhouse

The main task for fastening the film is simple - to fix it so that it is not blown away by the wind. But more and more often summer residents are interested in "safe" methods of fastening, without the need to pierce the film with nails.
The article will describe 5 ways to attach the film to the greenhouse without having to punch the film.

Rail (an option for a frame made of wood).

In this method, you can use wooden slats(glazing beads for windows are not recommended) with nails or self-tapping screws, or even better, packing tape fastened with staples from a construction stapler.

As an option, cut a tape from old linoleum or from any other strong material.

For many, this is the worst way cover the greenhouse - after all, you have to spoil the film. Such a film does not live for a long time, a couple of seasons at most. Well, if you nail cheap film, but nailing durable expensive film for a couple of seasons is stupid, especially if there are safer ways.

Although the reinforced film for the greenhouse is not afraid of breakthroughs from nails.

Rail nailed on the ends

If in the first method the film is fixed to the frame of the greenhouse both on the sides and to the roof rafters, in this method the film is fixed only on the ends of the greenhouse. How exactly - in the photo below.
If the film is not reinforced, then it is very often torn on nails (from the wind). This method reduces film damage and the chance that the wind will tear the film.

Clamps, clips (option for a frame made of PVC pipes, fittings)

How to fix the film on a greenhouse made of plastic pipes? You can fix the film on the greenhouse using special clips. Such clips can be found in the store, their price is not too expensive.

But if it was not possible to buy clamps, then they can be made independently from the same plastic pipes. The process is not very complicated. To do this, you need to cut the tubes and cut off the side part in them. To fix the film to the PVC pipe, you will have to experiment a little with the size of the cutout in the clamp. It is better to grind the edges of the clips, otherwise they may tear the film. An example of such a PVC greenhouse with latches is described here.
Any material is placed under the metal clips that will prevent the metal overheated in the sun from spoiling the film.
Some originals secure film with clerical clips. If the frame allows, then why not.

Greenhouse Film Fixing System

This fixation system consists of 2 parts - a PVC clip (resistant to UV radiation) and a galvanized (aluminum) profile. I think the principle of its operation is clear - PFH snaps into the profile along with the film, without any damage to the material. Mount the system on roofs, side walls and ends.

Another option is double clips for attaching the film to the aluminum profile.
Of all the ways to attach the film to the greenhouse, this is the easiest in terms of mounting and dismantling the film.

Net

Most safe way fixing the film to the greenhouse. First, the greenhouse needs to be covered with a film, and on top of it is a mesh, the mesh itself is tied to the body.
In this case, the film is not damaged in any way, but there is one drawback - you will have to stretch the film more often, especially after rain and if there is no additional fastening.

Rope, harness, elastic cord

Almost the same as in the case of the greenhouse mesh, but instead of it, a polypropylene cord or elastic cord is used. Moreover, you need to tie up the greenhouse in the form of Z (between two parallel cords - one diagonally).

Eyelets and elastic cord

A rather specific method, and therefore I will describe it in passing. Eyelets are a hole in the film reinforced with a metal or plastic ring. It is not suitable for ordinary film, only for strong and preferably with the addition of a cuff that will prevent the eyelet from breaking through the material.

If you have your own interesting examples of attaching a film to a greenhouse, share it with them in the comments.

If you have decided to put a film greenhouse on your site, you will face two tasks: what to make the frame from and how to cover the greenhouse with film. The solution of the second problem is directly related to the first, so the material for the construction of the frame, as well as its shape, must be chosen based on this.
The easiest way is to fix the film on a wooden base. Therefore, the most common in suburban and personal plots are just such designs, but you should not exclude other materials - plastic and metal, the main advantage of which is durability.

First you need to decide on the purpose of the greenhouse, the timing of its use. The choice of film depends on this.
If you plan to use shelter all year round or from the earliest spring to late autumn, the film for covering the greenhouse must be strong and durable, withstand temperature changes and the weight of the snow cover. In this case, it is recommended to use .
For spring shelters designed to protect young plants from frost and bad weather, you can use a simpler material, the price of which is adequate for a one-time use.

Material calculation

The required amount of film is easy to determine knowing its width in a roll. To do this, the length of the frame is measured and the resulting figure is divided by the width of the material - the number of canvases required for shelter comes out.
In this case, it must be taken into account that the canvases are overlapped on the frame.

Note. Film in a roll can be wound in one or two layers. In the second case, it is a sleeve that can be cut along the fold and get a canvas twice as wide.

The length of each web is determined by the length of the arc (for arched structures) or the sum of the lengths of all sides in cross section (for structures with pitched roof) plus 10% for fixing around the perimeter.
Multiplying the required number of canvases by their length, we get the final figure - how many meters of film you need in total to cover the greenhouse from above. But, since it is also necessary to cover the greenhouse with a film from the ends, we calculate their area and add it to the resulting amount.

Rules for the installation of film greenhouses

In order not to redo the work twice, follow these recommendations:

• Do not pre-cut the film to length. Throw the roll from one side to the other. Then stretch, add 20-25 cm on each side to the mount, after which you can cut it off.
• Cut all the sheets in the same way. Lay them on the flat surface and glue on both sides with transparent tape.

Advice. In order for the adhesive tape to fix the joints well, the film for covering greenhouses must be clean, without traces of dust, and it is desirable to degrease its edges.

• When cutting out details for the ends, leave overlaps on all sides.

• So that the film does not subsequently sag, you should not fix it at low air temperatures. On the other hand, if you do it in extreme heat, then when it gets cold from tension, it can break.
  Choose for this moderately warm weather without strong winds.

The result of overstretching

• To make the film last longer, cover the greenhouse shortly before planting plants in it. And so that the earth in it has time to warm up, at the place of its installation, you can spread a black film, pressing it well around the perimeter.

After completing all preparatory work you can proceed directly to fixing the greenhouse (see). You will learn how to do this by watching the video or by reading the next chapter.

Methods of fastening to the frame

Some modern covering materials are strong enough that they can be sewn together without fear of tearing along the seam. Of these, according to the measurements taken from the frame, you can sew a removable cover with your own hands, which will remain fixed only along the bottom.

Usually, for this, an overlap is left on the ground, which is pressed down with a beam or covered with soil. The embankment should have a slope from the walls of the greenhouse to drain rainwater.

Close the frame

If you use, there may be several options for attaching it to the frame. But first, the finished canvas, glued along the length of the frame, is thrown over the greenhouse and pulled well.
The edges of the canvas should hang down at the ends on both sides. Along one of the long sides, a strong rail or beam is laid on the edge, carefully wrapped around and attached to the base of the frame with self-tapping screws or nails.

Advice. If the beam is heavy enough, and the coating must be removable, it is not necessary to fasten it. You can also sprinkle with earth to eliminate cracks.

In order to do the same on the other side, you will need an assistant, since it is difficult to cover the greenhouse with a film yourself - you need to stretch it evenly. After that, it remains to sheathe the doors and vents, close the ends and connect the joints with adhesive tape.

We strengthen

The method of fastening depends on the material of the frame:

• To the wooden frame, the coating is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws through thin slats or staples through felt, plastic packing tape, a strip cut from old linoleum;
• to plastic or metal pipes the film is fastened with special clips of a suitable diameter, which can be bought at a store or made independently from scraps;

• Alternatively, the coating can not be attached to the frame at all, but a mesh or twine can be pulled over it. The main thing is to fix it well down the perimeter of the greenhouse.

Especially responsibly it is necessary to approach the film cladding of door frames and transoms, as these are the most frequently used structural elements. So that the material does not rub or tear, the film must be wrapped around the door frame, fixed on it through the lining, and the end parts should be sheathed with felt or rubber tape.

Advice. Most often, the film breaks precisely at the points of contact with the frame due to its heating or rough surface. Therefore, all its elements must be smooth, without sharp corners and protrusions.
To prevent strong heating (especially of the metal frame), the instruction recommends painting it white or wrapping all structural elements with a light-colored cloth.

Conclusion

Knowing how to cover the greenhouse with film, you can save a lot on the purchase of a finished structure, its delivery and assembly. For many summer residents who grow flowers and vegetables not for sale, but for their own needs, this is very important.

Very often, those who spend some time on personal plot, the question arises: how to stretch the film on a metal greenhouse? you get an expensive film, cover the greenhouse with it with your own hands and do not get the proper result. Then everyone asks the same question: why is the result of cultivation not what we would like? The answer lies in how correctly you will attach it to a metal greenhouse.

The better (and more expensive) the film, the longer the seasons it will last.

In itself, the maintenance of a metal greenhouse requires a lot of time, effort, material costs. To reduce all these costs, the greenhouse needs to be carefully looked after, in particular, you need to buy quality coating. A good film can last more than one season.

This is a fairly versatile material. At first, it was used only as a means by which you can perfectly pack an item. However, further use has shown that this is a multifunctional thing. Due to its properties, it can perfectly retain heat and let in daylight. These characteristics are highly valued by gardeners, which is why it is used in greenhouses.

The film has become a great alternative to glass, which is fragile and expensive. This material, of course, will not allow you to use the greenhouse all year round, but in this case, you can grow seedlings on natural soil, harvest a month or two earlier than usual.

Basic rules of use

Direct contact of the film with the frame metal is not allowed.

If you decide to cover your greenhouse yourself, you should take into account some of the nuances when using a film if the main construction material is metal.

If the fasteners are made incorrectly, then the film will become bad, unusable.

There are certain rules for its use specifically for metal structure greenhouses:

1. In no case should nails, wire or self-tapping screws be used, as they can cause mechanical damage and lead to damage to the entire canvas.
2. The second rule is that you need to make sure that the film does not touch the elements of the metal frame of the greenhouse. They, being under the canvas and direct rays of the sun, heat up to +70 degrees. This directly affects the film. It constantly heats up, then cools down, and this intensifies the process of its destruction. Even a very expensive film, which is designed for several seasons, in such a situation will not always last even one season. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary, before covering metal carcass, wrap it with cloth or paper. You can take the fabric not new, but the old one that you wanted to throw away.

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The main methods of attaching the film

Reliable fastening of the film will keep it from fraying by the wind.

There are two main ways to attach the film to the metal frame:

1. The method in which the clip is used. Now a large number of greenhouses, which can be purchased at the store, have special clips in their kit. If you make a greenhouse with your own hands, then you can make these elements yourself. For the manufacture of clamps, you need to take the usual sheet bent iron. Be sure to use rubber gaskets, then the film will serve for a very long time. They are a kind of fuse and do not allow the coating to come into contact with metal clips.
2. You can stretch the coating on a metal greenhouse using a coarse mesh or a strong cord. To attach the film to the greenhouse with a cord, you must first stretch it over the frame on both sides. The cord needs to be attached in one of the lower corners, then pulled, while throwing it in a zigzag from one side to the other. These steps must be taken with inside. So the canvas will be fixed on both sides with two layers of mesh, which was formed with a cord.

When stretching the film over a metal greenhouse, do not apply excessive force, because the material will quickly deform, especially when it is windy outside or with temperature changes.

In the country house and in the garden, it is not possible to do without a greenhouse and a greenhouse in all regions: in the north, summer is too cool and short, so you have to lengthen it. Yes, and in more southern regions, then grow seedlings, then get early / late vegetables-berries. That is why these facilities are popular: the costs are not very high, but there are many benefits. Moreover, do-it-yourself greenhouses and greenhouses can be built of any design, from any material, for any task.

Immediately make a reservation, what is the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse. The greenhouse is serviced from the outside. He has small size and you won't be able to get into it. The greenhouse is already a more solid structure in which you can stand in full height and work. The plants in it are served from the inside. Here, in fact, is the whole difference.

Despite the obvious difference in the dimensions of the structure, the same ones are used. There are several basic ones, as well as many combinations and modifications.

The main design differences are in the shape of the roof. There are three of them:

• arched;
• lean-to;
• gable.

What is the frame for greenhouses and greenhouses made of?

The choice of materials is wide, and they are often combined. So, the frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse is made from:

Probably everyone knows about the advantages and disadvantages of metal and wood. But what are good and bad plastics, probably a few. Plastics are good because they bend well, they outside surface initially smooth and does not require processing, it does not tear the covering material. Plastic pipes are round, there are square ones, their wall is quite thick and strong, it holds self-tapping screws. Their main advantage: they are chemically neutral, do not bloom, do not rust, do not rot. Another property is their lightness. Regarding the construction of greenhouses, this is both an advantage and a disadvantage. On the one hand, the design is light, it is easy to assemble and disassemble. But at strong wind lightness is already a disadvantage. It is neutralized with a good base, to which the frame is securely attached.

What to cover

The main covering material for greenhouses and greenhouses is a film. It is used on both small and large structures. Glass used to be used for year-round use, but its high price and fragility led to the fact that it is used very rarely - it turns out to be an expensive shelter. A big weight glazing requires a solid frame.

There are two new items. A more familiar polycarbonate, which is used for both canopies, and a relatively new one is spunbond non-woven covering material.

Now about all the details.

Film for greenhouses and greenhouses

It is produced from different polymers, has different thicknesses. The most common are polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride. There are also reinforced ones.

Polyethylene films are the most inexpensive, but they are also the most short-lived. Even with the most careful attitude, they do not serve for more than a year: they become brittle under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and they are finished off by cold. However, more often buy them: cheap.

Available in sleeve form. Cutting it on one side, we get a double width. It is not worth using an uncut film: the service life will remain the same, and the consumption will be exactly twice as much. There is only one feature: the film breaks quickly along the fold. It is difficult and almost useless to seal it later: adhesive tape sticks very poorly to a dusty surface. Therefore, this fold is glued with adhesive tape before use. It turns out reliably.

Thickness and types

The optimal thickness of the polyethylene film for country greenhouses and greenhouses is 150 microns. To take a thicker one - anyway, its service life is one season, and the characteristics and 150 are enough.

More durable reinforced film. Manufacturers give a 3-year warranty on it. It is easy to distinguish by appearance: she's in a cage. Fibers of other polymers or the same polyethylene, but processed in a different way, are woven into the polyethylene web. Thanks to stronger fibers, such a film greenhouse can withstand wind and snow loads well (to a certain extent). Reinforced film is available in different densities, for greenhouses and greenhouses in summer cottages and household plots, 120 g / m 2 to 200 g / m 2 is more suitable.

There are also polyvinyl chloride films. They can be used up to 7 years. But they are expensive. The material is also good because it transmits sunlight well (80-90%) and almost does not transmit infrared (5-10%), that is, it does not allow the greenhouse to cool overnight. If you need a warm greenhouse that maintains the temperature well at night, this is your choice.

There are also films that are called perennial. Most often it is polyethylene with various additives. Some other polymers are less common. Typically, multi-year films have some special properties:

• less destroyed by ultraviolet radiation - light stabilizing;
• less transmits thermal radiation - heat stabilizing;
• does not allow condensation drops to form on the film - hydrophilic;
• reflects thermal radiation, glows in the dark, absorbs ultraviolet - these properties depend on the type of additives, but are called light-transforming.

These properties can be combined in one film. So you can find a long-term hydrophilic heat-stabilizing film, etc. One more moment. Such films usually have some kind of tint: yellow, greenish, blue ...

When choosing a multi-year film, be sure to specify its service life. It can be from two seasons to 3 years. Note. If 2 seasons are written, this means that it needs to be removed for the winter. If 2 years, then this is a film for year-round use. Sellers often manipulate these concepts, saying that two seasons are two years.

Polycarbonate

This cellular material has many advantages: it is light, transmits light well, retains heat, bends, and is easy to install. The disadvantage is the relatively high cost. However, if the greenhouse is operated for more than one year, such investments will pay off: even without additional heating, the growing season is significantly increased.

But polycarbonate is different in structure and thickness. The most commonly used types in the construction of greenhouses are in the table.

For normal conditions(average snow load and wind) single-chamber sheets are used to cover greenhouses. For regions with a lot of snow, it makes sense to take reinforced ones.

The thickness of the sheets is optimal - 6 mm or 8 mm. You should not take less: sheets are too fragile and their characteristics are not very good (see table). Polycarbonate 4 mm thick can be placed on small ones. He can't handle heavy loads.

Polycarbonate still needs to be fixed correctly: the cells must be oriented from top to bottom, open edges must be sealed with special tape or adhesive tape, fastened with special thermal washers or bolts with a large metal washer, under which it is necessary to put a rubber or plastic lining.

Spunbond

This is no longer the same material. There are many brands: Agril, Lutrasil, Spanteks, Agrospan, AgroSUF, etc. It's just that Spunbond appeared first and now all similar materials are called that way, as well as "non-woven covering material" or "agrofibre". It is a non-woven polypropylene fiber that has unique characteristics: allows air, light and moisture to pass through, while saving plants from overheating or freezing. Review of the practice on the use of this material in the video.

Agrofibre is characterized by density. The lowest is 17 kg / m 3, the largest is 60 kg / m 3. For seasonal greenhouses and greenhouses from spring to autumn, the optimal density is 30-40 kg / m 3, for winter, 60 kg / m 3 are already needed.

How to quickly build a greenhouse with arcs (with photo explanations)

As a rule, the first greenhouse in the country or in the garden is made from inexpensive materials: you need to try what it is and evaluate how profitable the idea is. Hence the requirements: a simple, pre-fabricated design from inexpensive, available materials. These requirements are fully met by frame greenhouses with arcs made of PVC pipes (HDPE can also be used).

materials

Here is a greenhouse, as in the photo above, can be done in a few hours. You will need the following material:

• Board for the base, size not less than 75 * 40 mm, the length depends on the dimensions of your greenhouse. A frame is knocked down from a bar, which lies along the perimeter of the greenhouse. If the greenhouse is 6 * 3 meters, then the timber needs 18 meters, if 8 * 3 m, then 24 meters, etc.
• Board with a section of 50 * 20 mm for the organization of the front door.
• PVC pipes with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. The length depends on the dimensions of the greenhouse. If you are going to build a greenhouse, then at the top point its height should be at least 2.2 meters. Then you can easily work inside.
• Reinforcement with a diameter of 14-16 mm. It should be slightly smaller than the inner PVC diameter pipes.
• Covering material - film or agrofibre. Others for this design will not work.
• Perforated metal tape.
• Wood screws.

Treat wood with rot and insect repellant before use. If there are pieces of bark somewhere, you need to get rid of them. That is where most of the larvae are. If there are any factory impregnations, you can use them. You have used engine oil - it will do. If it is not there, you can burn the wood blowtorch. This method is unreliable, but even such processing is better than none.

Tools for the job

To make a greenhouse for a summer residence with your own hands, you will need a tool:

• hammer, nails;
• saw on wood;
• grinder with a disk for metal;
• sledgehammer or heavy hammer (to hammer rebar);
• screwdriver

We build a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes (photo report)

First of all, the site is marked out, then the site is leveled. She is leveled. Next, the actual construction of the seasonal greenhouse begins.

Preparatory work

A rectangle is knocked down from a wide board, which outlines the border of the greenhouse. If you know how, the beam can be connected into a paw, if not, just knock it down with a hammer and long nails (at least 10 cm). Reinforce the uly with metal plates or corners. We check the base. To find out how evenly it turned out for you, measure the diagonals. If they are equal, great. No - straighten it out. After that, we fix the base - in inside corners we drive in reinforcement rods. They will hold the base in place.

The reinforcement is cut into pieces about 80 cm long. They are installed every 50 cm on both long sides of the greenhouse. 40 cm are hammered into the ground and the same remains to hang around. The rods of opposite sides must stand strictly one opposite the other, otherwise the greenhouse will be skewed.

We put on arcs

We put a cut piece on the reinforcement on one side polypropylene pipe, bend it and put it on the same bar from the opposite side. Got the first arc. We do the same with everyone else. We get arcs installed every 50 cm. This is a greenhouse frame made of polypropylene pipes.

Now the pipes need to be fixed. Otherwise, they will come off just as easily as we put them on.

We take a perforated metal tape, a screwdriver, wood screws. We cut off a piece of tape, attach it to the frame near the pipe on one side, then on the other. You can screw one more - two self-tapping screws closer to the pipe so that the arc is held securely. To make the fastening stronger, it is better to take corrugated reinforcement rather than smooth, you can also fix the PP pipe twice: almost at the ground and closer to the upper edge of the frame.

Now we need to connect all the arcs longitudinal pipes. They will give rigidity to the structure. If the greenhouse is small, only one longitudinal rib is enough. But it is more convenient when they are also on the sidewalls.

A long piece of PVC pipe or a beam of small section is tied at the top in the middle of the arch. It is attached with a plastic clamp to each arch. It will give the structure additional rigidity.

Plastic clamps - universal fasteners

Making doors

A doorway is already made from the board in the middle of the first arch. Its height and width depends on how high your greenhouse turned out. But the width of the door should not be less than 80 cm: it will be uncomfortable to walk.

Now the matter is small: choose what, cover the greenhouse. PVC pipes will be able to take out a film (any) or nonwoven fabric(or both of these materials). After the material is fixed, we can consider the manufacture of the greenhouse with our own hands finished: you can plant seedlings. There is enough height to grow even high varieties of tomatoes or cucumbers and you can easily make supports for tying.

Greenhouse using the same technology

It is interesting that it is easy to build a greenhouse using the same technology. Only its dimensions will be smaller (the fittings may be thinner, its pieces are smaller), and the whole technology is similar.

Almost also built a greenhouse "Snowdrop". The only difference is that the covering material is stitched in it, drawstrings are made in it, into which PVC pipes are threaded. After they are installed in the necessary places of the agrofibre, they are stuck into the ground. Why is such a greenhouse convenient? The fact that the shelter can be moved along the arch, opening or closing plants as needed.

Improvements

Most questions arise when organizing the entrance: it turns out the most problematic part. Here are two options for solving it:

How to attach film to pipes

What are the advantages of PVC pipe arcs? They are smooth, the film and spunbond do not tear on them. But how to attach the film to them? You can’t drive a nail into them, you can screw in a self-tapping screw, but only into one lying on the ground. It “plays” in the frame and the screw does not screw into it. For fastening the film there are special plastic clamps-latches. They are put on top of the film, cover part of the pipe.

From a hose, a plastic pipe, other improvised materials

Such clamps can be made from improvised materials. For small greenhouses from arcs, a piece of old hose, cut lengthwise, is suitable. For greenhouses, its rigidity may not be enough: the windage is greater. Then the clip can be made from a piece of the same plastic pipe. It is also cut lengthwise, but you will have to cut off some of the width: PVC, and HDPE are still quite rigid, and you can’t just unfold them. Which part of the pipe to cut out, determine empirically, then process the edges with emery: so that they do not tear the film.

Pipe clamps, which are used when installing pipelines in houses, do a good job of holding the film. You have to break off his leg, but otherwise he is very good.

Still people use stationery binders right size. This device holds well, but due to the fact that it is metal, there is a possibility that the film will tear in strong winds. To prevent this from happening, you can put a piece of cloth.

And another way that you can attach the film to the arc of the greenhouse: take double-sided tape and stick it on one side of the pipe. Then, gradually removing protective film stick a film on it. This is an option for cheap plastic film: it will be impossible to remove it. Another point: you need to stick the film not to the very bottom: after all, you may need to ventilate the greenhouse.

For convenient ventilation, the film is cut longer than required by 20-30 centimeters on each side (if the length of the arc, for example, is 2 meters, then the film will need at least 2.5). They take a bar, wrap it with a film and nail it. Now, if the film needs to be lifted, it is wound onto a bar, and it is fixed (or simply thrown onto the roof, tying a rope so that it can be pulled back). Only the bar should be well processed, without sharp edges. So it won't break the film.

Arcs for greenhouses from profiles

A greenhouse under a film can be not only from polymer pipe. You can also use galvanized profiles for outdoor use. They are light, due to the ribs have a sufficient degree of rigidity. A greenhouse with a galvanized profile can be covered with any material, except, perhaps, glass: it is too heavy.

To make an arc from the profile, its side parts are cut with a grinder every 20-30 cm, leaving the middle part intact. On the ground, an arc is outlined that needs to be formed (a semicircle can be drawn with a piece of rope and a pencil tied on one side if you are working on a concrete site or a sharp peg that scratches the turf or ground. The incised profile is placed on this pattern, folded in places of cuts. Then they take a screwdriver and self-tapping screws (fleas), fasten them in places where the side parts intersect, first from one side, then from the other side.

How it looks live, see the video.

Polycarbonate can already be attached to such arcs. But the structure is still not rigid enough to be walked on.

Video on how to make arcs for a greenhouse with wood polycarbonate

This method is available experienced carpenters. But the result is excellent: not only reliable, but also beautiful. The fastening system was invented very interestingly: the polycarbonate is not fixed tightly, but moves along the guides, opening and closing the side faces. The design is more complex, but also more reliable.

Economical greenhouse with heating

How to make a year-round greenhouse, and spend a little on heating it? One of the gardeners came up with the idea to bury the greenhouse in the ground. One of the very rational options, see the following video.

Do-it-yourself greenhouses are made from different materials and different designs, but the priority is the arched structure. It is easier to build, and does not interfere with work, it allows you to ventilate if necessary.

In an effort to “plant” the family from early spring on their own vitamins, summer residents build all kinds of greenhouses, different both in shape and in coating material. But the film still remains the most popular coating. Manufacturers took this attachment into account by expanding the range of new types: reinforced film for greenhouses, polyvinyl chloride, copolymer and others.

Every year more and more new names appear, and what is hidden under them: the usual polyethylene film with hyped marketing names or improved forms of coatings? An ordinary summer resident can “hang noodles” and sell at a high price a traditional film of a denser structure, which will not show itself with any additional advantages. So that you do not fall for the tricks of sellers, let's figure out what characteristics are hidden behind the new names of coatings and whether it is worth buying them for country greenhouses.

Types of film coatings

Most ancient view film material, however, as well as the most common. Demanded due to cheapness. Polyethylene has some advantages, they are enough for a summer resident who decides to make a greenhouse or an unheated greenhouse for one season:

• protects seedlings from frost, wind, precipitation;
• raises the temperature inside by a couple of degrees (and this means a lot if it is about 12˚ outside, at this temperature most vegetables do not set fruit);
• increases the level of humidity;
• protects vegetables from fog, etc.

frame white color help polyethylene last longer

If you ventilate and close at night in time, then the season will serve quite tolerably.

On sale there is a cloth, sleeves. How many lengths are needed - so much will be unwound. The width of the canvas varies from 1.5 to 3 m, the sleeves - up to 6 m. The sleeve is more profitable - if you cut it in one fold, you will get 2 times more footage. Some summer residents cover the greenhouse with a sleeve, believing that two layers of coating are stronger.

We hasten to dissuade everyone: even polyethylene covered in three layers will not be preserved by the next spring, it is characterized by “aging”, i.e. decrease in strength characteristics under the influence of the scorching rays of the sun, temperature extremes, frost. Destruction will go on at any thickness, and you should not spend money on thick polyethylene.

Yes, and it will last one season only with proper operation.

What should be provided

1. If you lay a cut sleeve, then a fold is obtained in the middle, it is the first to “give up” from heat or wind, it begins to break through. To avoid this, stick a wide transparent adhesive tape around the entire fold before covering the greenhouse. Do not wait for the moment when the fold begins to burst. Then it is too late to glue the adhesive tape: it will not stick to the dusty film.
2. Polyethylene stretches from heat. A cord is pulled on top or wooden slats are hammered crosswise.

PVC film

There are many descriptions on the Internet that its appearance resembles cellophane. But cellophane is rustling, and polyvinyl chloride is thick, does not rustle. In terms of structure and appearance mind pvc similar to the material of medical droppers.

PVC can be recognized by the yellowish tint of the edge of the roll

What are the advantages "added" to the coating, compared with polyethylene?

1. Transmittance for ultraviolet rays - 80%, for ordinary light - 90%.
2. Practically does not pass IR radiation (only 5-9%), the greenhouse does not cool down overnight.

But this coating option has not gained popularity among summer residents, since it is quite expensive, and the frost resistance threshold is only -15˚. In our climate, such temperatures in winter are not uncommon, so if the film is not removed, it will only last a couple of seasons, although manufacturers promise a service life of about 8 years. Then you will have to remove the coating in the fall. Dust quickly settles on it, preventing the penetration of light.

Reinforced film

The name suggests that it is somehow fortified. The material is ordinary polyethylene. But the frame is made of polymers different way processing, gives the material strength, resistance to stretching. Reminiscent of a fishing net, the cells of which are filled with polyethylene. The thickness of the cells and the thickness of the carcass threads vary.

The smaller the cells, the stronger the frame of the reinforced polyethylene

On sale you can find frames made of twisted polyethylene, fiberglass threads or polypropylene fibers. The choice of a certain composition does not give the summer resident anything, the service life is about 3 years. But if a “breathable” reinforced film is offered (it is produced in Denmark), then it has an advantage over the others - it has better ventilation. In each cell of the "breathable" material, a small hole is punched through which air passes.

It is better to cover the greenhouse with a reinforced film for more than one season.

Films - "perennials"

There are so many types of multi-year films for greenhouses that it is necessary to specifically find out which coating parameter the manufacturer has improved. Most multi-year coatings are based on polyethylene, where certain additives are mixed. The most common types are:

• does not allow drops to hang on the roof, but makes them flow down the walls (hydrophilic film);
• increases the resistance of the coating to the damaging effects of sunlight (light-stabilizing);
• does not transmit infrared radiation, retains heat better (heat-retaining);
• prevents dust settling (antistatic);
• passes to the maximum ultra-violet rays, prevents infrared radiation - transmits useful light and blocks the path of harmful (light-transforming).

These additives are found in the same film in different variations. Long-term coverings from 2 seasons to 3 years serve. It is important to clarify here: we are talking about seasons or years, because seasonal film requires removal for the winter and storage in a room with a positive temperature, and annual film can remain in the greenhouse in winter.

In addition to polyethylene, there are "perennials" from other polymer compositions.

Any film coating, even the most durable, is afraid mechanical damage, therefore, it can serve for a long time only when the owner correctly fixed it on the greenhouse.

Let's consider how to fix it on the greenhouse arcs or on the greenhouse.

It is necessary to fix on wooden planks with a stapler. This method makes fewer holes than nails, does not violate the integrity of the web

1. metal or wooden frame the greenhouse heats up very strongly, in places of contact with the coating, the structure of the film begins to quickly collapse. It is necessary to paint white, or wrap the contact points with a white cloth or heat-insulating material.
2. Wooden planks are nailed to the edges of the film with a stapler, wrapped with a film so that the tree hides inside.
3. They stretch the coating onto the frame as follows: they screw the strips on one side of the greenhouse to the base with screws, throw them on the other side, pull them on and screw them on from the second side. A greenhouse film stretched in this way will hold on stronger than just nailed.
4. If a whole piece is not enough for the greenhouse, then several are combined into one. The best way glue - fix the joints with a wide dense adhesive tape. This must be done before the coating becomes dusty. Before gluing, wipe the surface with alcohol, stick adhesive tape and wipe the joints with a soft cloth, expelling air bubbles. For the season, this fastening is enough.

Greenhouse from reinforced film will last for several years

How to glue the film? A more time-consuming way is to weld the seams with an iron. To do this, lay the film overlap, cover with newspaper and iron. You can also glue it using waterproof glue, but degrease first.

Whether it is worth overpaying for improved parameters is up to you.