Cellular table with your own hands. Plywood cutting table

16.06.2019

Welcome to our page" Multifunctional workshop table - Festool MFT 3 table idea!

In this overview photo and video gallery, Arsenal Masters experts have made a selection of foto and video on the Festool MFT 3 multifunctional table variations: improvements, improvements, adaptations and home-made options.
* This photo review was created for informational purposes and is not a product, you can print this page yourself and for free.

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The Festool MFT /3 table has gained popularity all over the world among craftsmen working both in the workshop and on the road for good reason. MFT - Multi Function Table is a combination of mobile desktop and workbench.

Its main advantage is versatility and ease of use. Its popularity is due to the fact that the manufacturer combined the convenience of carpentry solutions (with fixing stops and clamps on the table top in mounting holes) with the solution? coming from the machine tool industry, where almost any equipment is installed on aluminum profiles with a T-slot.

Video:

You can see the idea and possibilities of use in the video from Festool on the MFT/3 table:

View all purchase options in the catalog with prices

We have divided this collection into topics:

1. Improvements and enhancements to the Festool MFT3 table

If the Master lacks the standard features of the product or something seems unfinished, then he begins to improve it at his discretion. And here the main thing is not to overdo it. But if you approach the matter with all passion, you get a good solution. We will show some of these successful solutions.

MFT3 table is originally mobile. Accordingly, his legs for stationary serious work are not stable enough, even with a diagonal traverse. And I would like to use its capabilities to the fullest. So, first of all, we came up with the idea of installing the MFT table on another more stable desktop. And MFT with folded or removed legs allows this. There are many options, but the essence is the same:

He is with "adult" wheels:

Base on aluminum profiles:

And the components:

Video:

The process of making such a table can be seen in the video:

An extended version of the MFT/3 table, assembled using native components. Lateral elongated profiles 2 meters long are custom items that you can order from us.

Additional "body kit":

2. Homemade table options

An interesting implementation of the MFT 3 table idea from Nizhny Novgorod master Maxim G. Here, instead of standard round holes, rectangular windows are cut out in the top panel of the tabletop. The clamping of the workpiece with the help in these windows is much faster than in the holes. A standard machine profile with a T-slot is installed in the side binding board of the table top. It ensures that everything works with the same clamps.

An interesting idea is a table with a frame cellular bench. Simple and functional. The table can be made using the Kreg bevel tool:

Video:

on table with a frame honeycomb underbench:

Another interesting option honeycomb workbench from mirock's woodshop:

Video:

Video: how to make a cellular workbench from mirock "s woodshop

Mobile Options:

Semi-stationary multifunctional table Masters from their native Fatherland. Simple design, affordable materials - an excellent budget solution:

Video:

And a video review of it:

One of the most popular tables in the image and likeness of MFT 3 is the project of the mobile table Multifunction workbench (MFTC for short) from Timothy Wilmots (Timothy Wilmots).

Video:

Video of a homemade multifunctional table MFTC

Stationary options:
The stationary versions of the MFT table offer a good stable base. Masters use a variety of solutions.
The simplest - of course, the most budgetary:

The simplest can also be in the form of a cabinet:

For example, when using even inexpensive materials (plywood, MDF, pine bars and simple), you can achieve an excellent result. It is only necessary to apply accuracy, fit all the details well with the help, grind and coat with high quality. And here it is the embodiment of a budget, but worthy-looking master's dream of his multifunctional workbench.

The next option takes advantage of only the benefits of working with .

Stationary MFT desktop made with German thoroughness (below detailed video presentation on it) further revealed the idea of the versatility and possibilities of the Festool MFT table:

Video:

A few more solutions from European and American craftsmen that take advantage of all three options for clamping on a workbench: using rail profiles, using a conventional vise, and using stops installed in holes in the worktop:

Version on standard aluminum machine profiles: quickly assembled and thanks to the standard profiles has a great versatility in the implementation of your ideas. For greater stability, it is better to install corner inserts.

Another interesting project stationary workbench on rollers from Peter Parfitt from England (below is the video on it):

Video:

And the most solid, in our opinion, development of the MFT table idea is the workbench table from Holzwerken.
A solid and thoughtful solution with interesting ideas:

Video:

Video review of this workbench:

3. Homemade fixtures for the MFT table

Drawers and shelves:

Such a table can be very useful when there is a shortage of storage space and if you work with wood not every day, but on occasion.

Step 1: Dimensions and part identification

Many parts have only one dimension. This is because the second is either unimportant, stated elsewhere, or depending on the thickness of the plywood. I found out this way was: 18mm, 23/32, 3/4 may be close, but small errors add up.

You will need:

4x8 sheet of plywood. I used BC. e. and it was designated 18mm.

4 pipes about 32″ long. This is a flexible part. I used 1.25 inch aluminum plugs from onlinemetals.com. They are a bit pricey with shipping but were needed as I drilled holes that were too big for my 1″ electric pipe. I plan to experiment with what you have available and what drills you have access to. A tight fit will give the best results.

8pcs x 2 3/8″ bolt

Wing nut 3/8 8pcs

Washer 3/8 16pcs

adhesive & double stick carpet tape

cookies and or drywall screws

3/4 oak dowel 36″ long

Notes:

Blue pieces and one short yellow chimney support. They are shown here but mounted under the table to keep the pipes parallel to the top.

Not all photos are 100% accurate. The first table was a glitch and some adjustments were made to the final drawings.

The bolts are overkill, but the larger ones are easier to use.

Step 2: Cut The Sequences

The idea here is to have similar pieces without moving the saw. A table saw can be used, but this was done with circular saw and the parallel stop that came with it.

First Cut: Rip 24″ off the short end of 4x8 plywood. This is for the top of the table and will be the basis for many other aspects. It is important to use some of the cut. Track saw, straight edge, etc.

Second Cut: From the other end, use your own 24″ piece and subtract 4 plywood thicknesses. It should be around 21. The reason this is important is because the legs are placed on inside top of table and outside shelf.

Cutting them off either side gives greater accuracy.

Set these two aside and continue cutting.

The pieces are color coded and if they have a color or a colored dot they are one general measurement. Remember, save on the right side of your line.

Leg note: Legs should be 3″x3″ when finished. This leaf cut has the short side measured long for a rabbit. If you want glue and screw or glue and cookies the short side would be 2-1/4, or 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood!

Once all the strips are cut go back to the first 24″ wide piece done and cut that 37″ long. We cut neatly, with a guide or straight edge of some kind. Save the cut off for later as the short skirt ends up coming out of it.

The next section of the shelf is the top length. This was done with the help of the second segment. Use the top you just made as a template and subtract four plywood thicknesses. Should be around 34″. Save cut off like a short skirt the ends will be made from this.

Step 3: drilling holes, long boards

1. Take two long 3-3/4. To get the length, spread them out on top and subtract two plywood thicknesses. Draw a line. Clamp them together and cut at the same time if you can with a circular saw or Miter saw. Set aside.

2. Cut off two short 4-1/2s and the remaining 3-3/4s. This aspect should be 32-3/8″ +/- so that they will fit into the shelf when all is assembled. Clamp and cut off all three at once.

3. Next drill holes desired diameter depending on which pipes you have chosen. Pay attention to the location of the link from the bottom. Mark all "bottoms" for subsequent installation. Drill holes as evenly as possible. For this I used double tape and a drill press. All pieces were stacked on a flat surface with the referenced side down. In short, they were in the center and all fit.

If you don't have a drill press, drill three 3-3/4 wide as one band, remember the center is shorter and make your marks longer. They must be ordered long, short, long. Then, using the shorter one as a template, drill two 4-1/2's wide. I would still recommend using double-sided adhesive tape.

Also pay attention. If your plywood has a good side/and a bad side that is important to you, flip the board properly. If the holes are not perfect the pipes may not allow you to do this later.

Step 4: drilling holes, short boards

1. The board supports. Cut off the remaining 4-1/2 boards to approximately 24″. I did this by cutting a 4-1/2 x 48 in half. Then add the remaining 4-1/2 and cut all three at once on a miter saw to the maximum length possible.

2. Trumpet supports. Cut long 3-3/4 in the amount of two pieces 22-3/8 +/-. They fit under the table so their actual size is 24″ minus the thickness of the plywood*2.

Similar to long boards, these must be laid and stuck together. Ideally 4-1/2, 4-1/2, 3-3/4, 3-3/4, 4-1/2 with 3-3/4 in the center. Remember bottom marks. If you need to break that I would do 3-3/4 and 4-1/2 and mark them as A. do the rest and mark them as B. You don't want to be bending the pipe to get things to fit.

Notice the holes:

My first holes were for 1″ emt wire. This stuff was cheap, but my hole was too sloppy. Thus expensive aluminum. However the 1.25 aluminum through the 1-1/4 hole drilled with the fostner bit was too tight. Ended up using a spade bit and some sanding.

Step 5: Optional Rigor

At my table I have mortised legroom. I don't think this is absolutely necessary, but it does add to the stability. That's a fair amount of work. Take it or leave it, worse is adding a few more bolts!

If you decide it should be done to the bottom of the top of the table. Ideally, before making holes and defiantly before the skirt is added.

Step 6: Gather the Top

This should go pretty fast. I used jointer biscuits. If you do, be sure to mark boards and links at the correct angles. Glue and clamp or glue and nails/screws work also.

All your pieces had a brand on the bottom. Make sure it's visible when you assemble these pieces.

Step 7: Drill in the top

There are two ways to do this.

1. Draw a 2-1/2 line all around the top. From this line of hole centers 4-3/4 apart in the short direction and 5-5/16 in the far direction. Drill away. The numbers are a little off, 1/8 maybe. With some fancy geometry you could cut through the lines if you really wanted to. 3/4″ fostner bit for best results

2. I built a jig. 9-3/4 x 37 plywood scrap. Draw the 2-1/2 line all the way around. Mark your centers 5-5/16. Install the 2-1/2 link on the drilling machine. Drill one line of the hole and just opposite two corners.

Lay the template over your top with a line of holes along the bottom edge, clamp securely. Drill. Then flip it over and align the two corner holes on the template with the two detailed ones. Insert a 3/4 inch dowel into each of the two corner holes. Again clamp and drill on the line. Next, rolled up the fishing rods, slide the template of one line, placing it in the corners.

It worked pretty well. The holes looked good, but not 90 degrees. It probably needs another jig!

Step 8: legs

A couple of ways to make legs.

Cut off all legs to 32″. It's not critical. If you have other machines you can use in conjunction with this table think that changes that. Cut as much as you can boldly at once for greater precision. Make sure you don't use more than 3" wide boards. The ones on the shelf.

We have 3″ strips and either 2-1/4″ or 2-1/2″. According to these plans 2-1/2 since there were rabbit and dado. If you want to use other methods then use 2-1/4″. Or technically 3″ minus the thickness of the plywood. In my case 18mm.

Step 9: Assemble Shelves

We've cut before. It should be about 34″ (37″ minus 4 plywood thicknesses).

We take the remaining 3 long "wide boards. Lay them out on a shelf on top and put two pieces of plywood at the end to cut the overall length. Scribe and overhang. Cut them both out at the same time. Should be about 32-1/2″.

Assemble the shelf just like you did the top. No need for additional holes or spikes.

Additionally:

Tape the long boards together and drill two more holes for the pipes. I am over the center of the shaft by 3″ of the board and about 4″ from the end. I did this much however it would be more useful if a few holes were drilled into the legs to raise and lower the shelf. I only have one shelf high.

Step 10: Leg Hole Cutting Guide and Leg Holes

This guide drills holes in the top and into the shelf precisely. This is not necessary, but if you have it turned off in all holes, then the legs will be determined specifically. This helps make the legs interchangeable.

Step 11: Shutters

The question of how to make a milling table on your own is asked by many home craftsmen. This is understandable: equipment on which the router is fixed motionless, and the workpiece moves along a specially equipped desktop, in many cases is much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a manual milling cutter, the workpiece is fixed on a regular table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which does not allow maintaining the accuracy of processing.

The milling table significantly increases the productivity and efficiency of working with a manual router. It is often unprofitable to purchase a serial model of such a table for your home. It is much more economical to make a milling table with your own hands. It won't take long and will require very little financial costs. Any home master can cope with such a task if desired.

Using a homemade table for a manual router when processing wood products, you can achieve results that allow you to get professional milling machines. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list of technological operations is performed qualitatively: cutting out figured holes and making various slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.

The factory-made milling table device can be found in the video below. We will try to make it no worse, but in some ways even better and, which is very important, cheaper.

A homemade milling table that you equip your home machine with will give you the opportunity to process not only wooden blanks, but also products that are made of chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. With the help of such a home-made milling table, you can make grooves and slots, process elements of tongue and groove joints, chamfer and create decorative profiles.

A homemade table for a router, the manufacture of which does not require large financial costs, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It will only be necessary to fix the tool itself - a hand mill, for which you can use a drill stand or a workbench. It is no coincidence that many manufacturing companies are engaged in the manufacture of precisely milling tables and accessories for them, but for such a device you will have to pay a decent amount of money. A home-made table for equipping a milling machine, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, is in no way inferior to models produced under production conditions in its functionality, but it will cost much less.

Milling table drawings: option number 1

Drawings of the milling table with a detailed analysis of the design of the main units and their dimensions.

Blueprints homemade table for manual router (click to enlarge)

Detail dimensions Table in section Two-layer table top Cut-out in the first layer of the table
Marking the cutout of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Cutting the cutout according to the marking of the second layer Drawing of the parallel fence
Stop end plate Dust pipe Plexiglas safety guard Comb clamp and locking block

Milling table design

If you wish, you can make a home-made milling table from an ordinary workbench, but it is better to make a special design. This is explained by the fact that the machine with the cutter creates strong vibration during operation, so the frame used to fix the cutter must be highly stable and reliable. It should also be taken into account that the milling device is attached to the bottom of the router table top, so there must be enough free space under it.

When attaching the device to the tabletop of a homemade table for a manual router, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity, or special clamps for a milling machine. This plate can be made from sheet metal, textolite or durable plywood. On the soles of most models of routers there are already threaded holes, and they are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and cut threads into them, or use special clamps for a milling machine.

The clamps for the milling machine or the mounting plate must be flush with the tabletop, for this, the appropriate dimensions are selected in the latter. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary for connecting it to the tabletop using self-tapping screws, and others so that such a plate can be fixed on the router sole. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must be countersunk.

To make turning on your device more convenient, you can place a regular button on the table top, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device even safer to use. To improve the convenience of your home machine you can fix a long metal ruler on the surface of a milling table made for a manual router with your own hands.

Before you start designing a milling coordinate table with your own hands, you need to determine the place where it will be located, and also decide what type milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate router with your own hands (the table will be located on the side of the saw equipment, serve as its extension), compact desktop machine, stand-alone stationary equipment.

Opt for compact benchtop equipment for woodworking and other materials if you access it infrequently or often use it outside your workshop. Such a setting, which is distinguished small size, takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.

If the size of your workshop allows, then it is better to adapt the base of a stationary milling machine to the router, which is much more convenient to work on than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be put on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.

Simple homemade router table. There are questions about the overall strength, but cheap and cheerful.

The simplest milling table or table for a drilling machine can be made very quickly. To make such a design, which is easily located on a regular desktop, you will need a chipboard sheet on which the guide elements are fixed. As such a guide, which can be used as a parallel stop for a milling table, an ordinary board of small thickness, which is attached to the table top with bolts, is suitable. If necessary, a second such board can be attached in parallel, which will serve as a limiting stop.

To insert a router into a table in a chipboard sheet, it will be necessary to make a hole for its placement, and it will be fixed on the table top with two clamps. After that, the manufacture of the milling table can be considered complete. To make the use of this design more convenient, simple clamps for a milling machine can be placed on the tabletop.

Manufacturing of the bed and countertop

The bed of a home-made milling machine must have high stability and reliability, since it is on it that the main loads will fall. Structurally, it is a frame with supports on which the tabletop is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame frame, you can use welded metal profiles, chipboard, MDF, wood. It is advisable to first prepare the drawings of such a device. On them it is necessary to designate all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.

The lower part of the bed from the side of its front part must be deepened by 100–200 mm so that nothing interferes with the feet of the operator of the milling machine. If you are going to process door linings and facade ends for them on your home-made machine, then the dimensions of the bed can be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).

One of the significant characteristics of the bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, on which the convenience of working on such equipment depends. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height of equipment for which people work while standing is 850–900 mm. It is desirable to make the lower parts of the bed supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for uneven floors, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table. To make a turntable with your own hands, it is enough to fix special wheels on its legs.

The assembly of approximately such a table is considered in option No. 2

Make a milling table different low price, high reliability, can be made from the countertop of the old kitchen table. Such countertops are usually made of 26 or 36 mm chipboard sheet, covered with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface ensures good sliding of the workpiece, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens the vibrations that occur during the operation of the equipment. If you make a desktop for the machine with your own hands, then MDF and chipboard (LDSP) plates with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.

Milling table drawings: option number 2

Detailed drawings of a milling table with additional drawers, which can be made from timber and plywood (or MDF). The list of parts with dimensions and recommended material of manufacture is presented in the table.

Table of table parts and their dimensions Frame Upper corner of the frame Lower corner of the frame
Sliding guide for drawers
Large drawer Small drawer Small drawer front Table side panels

How to make a mounting plate

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine has a fairly large thickness, the mounting plate for mounting the router should have a minimum thickness. This will maximize the reach of the cutting tool. It is clear that such a plate with a minimum thickness should be characterized by high strength and rigidity.

The plate can be made of metal or of a material that is not inferior to it in its strength - textolite. The thickness of the textolite sheet should be in the range of 4–8 mm. Using pre-prepared drawings, a rectangular part is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the sole of the router.

The connection of the plate with the sole of the router and the table itself, as mentioned above, is ensured by the holes made in it and the counter threaded holes in the milling cutter. Holes for fixing the plates to the table surface, which are used as clamps for the milling machine, are made at their four corners.

The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the plate with the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the sole of the tool. In order not to be mistaken in the manufacture of the plate, it is necessary to first prepare its drawing, on which it is necessary to indicate dimensions this part, the diameters and the location of all the holes on it. If desired, you can fix it on the surface of the table using clamps.

A video with a detailed story about the construction of a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the complexity of manufacturing is also very serious. For most masters, such a table will be unnecessarily complicated, but perhaps someone will draw useful ideas when building your own equipment.

Milling table assembly

A universal milling table or begin to assemble by attaching the table top to the finished bed. The mounting plate is applied to the place of the countertop where it should be placed according to the drawing, its outline is drawn with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the indicated contour, for which a hand mill with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess should be such that the plate lies in it at the same level with the surface of the countertop.

It will not work to make a recess with right angles with a round cutter, therefore, on the plate itself, the corners must also be rounded with a file. After fixing in the tabletop, it is necessary to make a hole in the mounting plate with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the router sole. It is done using a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the countertop itself.

When the equipment requirements are low and there is no desire to get involved with homemade products, you can buy something like that which is shown in the photo below.

PROMA with a price of about 6 thousand rubles is one of the cheapest factory milling tables

To perform such an operation, you do not need a drawing, since it does not require high accuracy. WITH reverse side worktops, it is also necessary to select a certain amount of material, since the dust collector casing and other devices will need to be placed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all the above operations, you can focus on the drawings or photos posted in this article.

The final step in assembling a homemade milling table is to connect all of its structural elements. First, a milling cutter is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its sole is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the top surface of the tabletop using self-tapping screws with countersunk heads, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations, the tabletop itself is securely fixed to the frame.

Milling table drawings: option number 3

Compact desktop router table and detailed analysis his creation in the photo below.

Computer model Appearance assembly Rear view Front view
Cutter raised, sashes moved apart Cutter lowered, sashes moved Manual frezer Hose from a vacuum cleaner to remove dust and chips
Mounting the router and removing chips Adjusting the rise of the cutter The rise of the cutter is carried out by turning the screw Adjusting the rise of the cutter
Adjusting the cutter projection Plexiglas platform before installing the router Glass precisely fitted to the worktop Router screwed to the support platform

Making the top clamp

Wondering how to do homemade machine safer in operation and ensure the convenience of processing dimensional workpieces on it, it is possible to equip such equipment with an upper clamp. To create this fixture, made on the basis of a roller, it is also necessary to prepare drawings.

A ball bearing is often used as a roller for the clamping device. right size. Mount such a roller on a holding device that allows you to fix it at any distance from the table top. With this simple universal device, the workpiece of any thickness will be securely fixed when moving along the surface of the desktop.

In the video below, a man shows his homemade router table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.

Drive for homemade milling machine

In order for the homemade wood router you made to be distinguished by high performance and functionality, it is necessary to equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine for shallow woodworking, a 500W electric motor will suffice. However, equipment with a low power drive will often shut down, which will negate all the savings from purchasing a weak electric motor.

The best choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 watts. Such an electric motor with a power ranging from 1 to 2 kW will allow you to use your own homemade device like a real milling machine for processing wood products. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on such a machine. To equip the drive of the machine, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, on drilling machines), as well as hand tools(drills, grinders, manual milling cutters).

Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible with a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since the milling cutter does not move along the surface being machined, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives more opportunities for processing parts. As a result, the blanks of products are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work.

compact homemade construction replace industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and unmovable.
Portable - has compact dimensions and is relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Construction scheme

For self-manufacturing of countertops, MDF boards are usually used, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, light in weight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is prone to corrosion, so it must be painted.

Milling table tops must be smooth. Often they are made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is immune to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for the longitudinal stop fasteners. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the manufactured models of countertops are made of MDF boards or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the sole of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminium. The plate for the router must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the insert protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices to level the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the work surface of the milling table.

Create convenience in selecting the diameter of the cutter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixed overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. More about self-manufacturing you can read this design.

Necessary tools and materials

Joiner's glue.
Bolts with nuts.
Screws.
MDF board and birch plywood
Electric jigsaw.
Spanners.
Sandpaper.
Ruler.
Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden poles or between two pedestals. Most in a simple way creating a countertop, a supporting part and parts for a milling table will use an MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table, we used:

1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the top of the table will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a single 19mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a replacement for this material.

Sawing sheet material into fragments according to the specified sizes.

1 - working surface; 2 - emphasis base; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not match the specified parameters or be defective.

It is necessary to remove the plastic lining from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking the cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template when marking

On the largest sawn part No. 1, 90x70 cm in size, make markings for the cutter. To do this, draw a line in the middle at a distance of 235 mm from the edge, putting a mark. Then place the overlay so that the router adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be fixed with screws.

Mounting holes must match the trim

Measure the diameter of the lining and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicular to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

Fasten four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the table top with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy as glue.

Glue the rest of the blanks and secure them with screws. Install a router on the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

Now you need to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - external side stand; 2 - internal rack; 3 - rear rack; 4 - base

Cut plywood into pieces according to size.
Assemble the table structure, fixing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

Then you need to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut out a square from the specified material, the sides of which are equal to 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the overlay and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the cutter to handle the details as much as possible

As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. On the countertop, draw and cut a cutout, the edges of which are processed with sandpaper.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them from the back of the tabletop with a 11 mm drill. Lay the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the sole of the router. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten it with screws.

The holes of the worktop and the plate must match

For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the further processing of the ends. narrow details. To do this, you need to cut guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stop make the process convenient

Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for fastening clamps, linings and protective devices.
To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a piece of 140x178 mm in size from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

For a stop, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience.

For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out the details from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a clamp-comb, it is better to use maple wood. To cut the part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood fibers. The slots of the ridges are best done with a circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix details when processing small fragments

Fix the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work. Clean all wooden elements from dust and coat with oil.

Safety

When working on milling machine accidents and injuries from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it are possible. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the countertop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the scattering of particles.

While working at the table, it is unacceptable to clean and lubricate parts, remove the protective screen and measure workpieces. Protective goggles must be worn to prevent the flying particles from getting into the eyes. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place hands close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure that they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correctness of sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a do-it-yourself milling table

Thanks to relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact design of the milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.