I will note right away: I am not going to prove the usefulness or futility of this undertaking. On the Internet, two camps have long been formed, which are constantly fighting among themselves, proving points of view to the point of losing momentum.
Someday I will study the issue, but not in this article. It is intended for those who want to learn how to dissolve lime for whitewashing trees, and get an idea how to do it the right way, according to science.
Why whitewash trees?
Most gardeners, answering this question, will say: "to protect trees from sunburn." This is true. But there are still factors that become whitewashed.
Frost protection
Frost cracks are damage to the bark, resembling deep cracks. In severe cases, they can reach the middle of the tree, leading to its death. They are formed when day and night temperatures fluctuate in winter time especially in February.
During the day it warmed up to 1 0 C, and at night it was -15 0 C - a phenomenon familiar to the regions of Russia. The bark of a tree, heated by sunlight during the day, cools sharply at night. This is equivalent to immersing hot glass in cold water.
Whitewashing a tree leads to the fact that the bark warms up and cools evenly. We remember from physics that dark color absorbs solar heat, light - reflects. This property is used in our case.
Pest extermination
Even slaked lime is an alkali that kills most insects, especially their larvae. Many diseases garden trees caused by these pests, and whitewashing reduces risks, reduces the consumption of chemicals, and preserves the crop.
Inexperienced gardeners complain that whitewashing does not help. Like, there is no difference between the processed wood and the unprocessed. Yes it is possible. But only if you take a brush and apply lime mortar without proper preparation. I will talk about it below.
sunburn protection
This factor causes numerous disputes on the forums. Forestry workers claim that sunburn occurs only on certain species coniferous trees and never - on deciduous.
Maybe this is so. But it's better to be safe. In theory, whitewashing can protect the bark from burns as well as frostbite. The same principle of intense reflection of the sun's rays works.
Whitewash contraindications
Some gardeners consider lime a panacea for all ills and wield a brush right and left. Thus, they make a gross mistake - not all trees can be whitewashed.
If you have a young garden, and the trees are not older than two years, it is better to refuse the event. The tender bark of young seedlings is easily damaged by aggressive alkali. It does more harm than good.
Preparing a tree for whitewashing
At this point, I will elaborate. Many gardeners make a mistake here, or rather, they do not prepare the tree in any way. The result is pests, burns, and trouble-sadness.
Remember. It is impossible to whitewash a tree without preliminary cleaning and disinfection. Yes, it will be beautiful. But no benefit.
Before cleaning, take polyethylene film and spread around the tree, close to the trunk. This is necessary so that pests and debris do not enter the soil. Then proceed according to the following scheme.
- Prepare wooden or plastic scrapers (do not work with metal tools).
- Examine the surface of the trunk and main branches, pay attention to cracks.
- Carefully remove the falling bark, mosses, lichens.
- Cover deep cracks and hollows with garden pitch.
- Trim the tree if necessary.
- Treat the barrel with a disinfectant solution.
Disinfection is best done with a sprayer or trigger. In this case, the solution will penetrate even the smallest cracks. With a brush, this effect cannot be achieved.
After disinfection, the film must be carefully collected, taken away from the garden and burned.
Disinfectant solutions
Most often in gardening, a 3-5% solution of copper or iron sulfate is used. It is prepared like this:
- take 300 g of powder (for a 5% solution - 500 g);
- pour in the same amount of hot water;
- after dissolving the vitriol, bring the volume of water to 10 liters (you can use warm or cold);
- mix thoroughly with a wooden stick.
Spray the main trunk and skeletal branches with this solution. If you missed the time and the tree began to bloom, make a 2% solution.
If in the process of inspecting a tree you find colonies of mosses or lichens, vitriol will not help. Treatment with salt solutions is necessary, which can be prepared by dissolving one of the following ingredients in 10 liters of water:
- food salt - 1 kg;
- urea - 600 g;
- nitroammophoska - 650 g;
- potassium carbonate - 550 g;
- potassium chloride - 350 g.
These solutions are applied to moss growth sites or added to lime mortar.
If you are an ardent opponent of chemistry and do not want to poison the garden, you can use a wood ash solution for disinfection. It is prepared according to the following recipe:
- take 3 kg of ash;
- add 5 liters of water;
- bring to a boil;
- cool, add 50 g of shabby laundry soap;
- mix thoroughly.
Spray the trunk and branches of the tree.
Trees can be bleached 3 days after treatment. If it rained at this time, repeat the disinfection.
How to properly dilute lime for whitewashing?
In stores you can only find quicklime. These are stones white color, less often - sand, which have a strong alkaline reaction. When interacting with water, a strong release of heat occurs, and three types of solutions can be obtained:
- fluff;
- lime dough;
- lime milk.
What you get at the end depends on the ratio of quicklime to water. According to technology, you first need to get fluff and only then prepare a solution for whitewashing.
Fluff recipe
Use caution when handling quicklime. During interaction with water, the temperature rises to 150 0 C, and the solution itself boils and “splashes”. If you are not careful, you will get chemical burns to the eyes or skin.
Therefore, work with gloves and protect your eyes from lime. Step by step recipe next:
- take a deep container (a bucket will do);
- pour 2 kg of quicklime;
- carefully pour in 2 liters of water;
- wait for the violent reaction to pass;
- Gently mix the contents until smooth.
You can take a different amount of lime. The main thing is to keep the ratio 1:1 or 1:1.5, where the first value is quicklime.
How to make a whitewash solution
If you simply dissolve the fluff in water, the whitewash will be washed off by rain in a month. Therefore, I recommend whitewashing trees with the following solution:
- 2.5 kg fluff;
- 9 liters of water;
- 60 g (3 tablespoons) flour paste.
Mix everything thoroughly and apply to the trunk with a brush. Instead of a paste, you can add 1 kg of clay.
Note. You should get a creamy mass (milk of lime). A more liquid solution will roll off the bark, a thicker one will not stick.
Lime milk is prepared in a ratio of 1:3. If you want to whitewash young seedlings, make a 1: 4 consistency or use water-based paint.
When is the best time to bleach trees?
It is believed that the trees need to be whitewashed in the spring. This is not entirely correct. At this time of the year, the main whitewash is carried out, but it must be repeated in the fall, when preparing the tree for wintering.
Whitewashing in the spring is carried out after the snow melts. In the central regions of Russia, this is the end of March - the first half of April. In the south - the beginning of March. The air temperature during this event should not be below 5 0 C. But you should not delay whitewashing either - you need to have time to disinfect and whitewash the trees before the foliage appears.
If you hesitate, the soil will warm up, pests will crawl out of it, the procedures will be in vain.
Whitewashing in the fall is carried out after the foliage is dropped. The air temperature should not be lower than 4 0 C. The process is the same as when processing a tree in the spring - first clean the dead bark, treat the cracks with garden pitch, disinfect, only then whiten.
Whitewashing in the summer is acceptable if you notice that the lime has been washed away by the rains. The best time for this - early morning, until the heat began. No advance preparation is required.
I think I told in detail how to dilute lime for whitewashing and about the technology for processing a tree trunk. If you have any questions - write in the comments or social networks.
We prepare the tree for whitewashing and properly dilute the lime
Whitewashing with lime is a generation-proven method of treating the surfaces of walls and ceilings. Despite the range of modern building materials, lime does not leave store shelves. What is the secret?
Whitewashing with lime or chalk: what to choose?
Whitewashing as a way of finishing the surfaces of residential premises is becoming less and less popular. Modern materials are increasingly appearing in our apartments, and there is no longer any particular desire to mess with the bleaching solution. But, nevertheless, there is still a demand for lime and chalk whitewash. This method finishing is widely used in educational and medical institutions, in premises for household purposes, etc.
Whitewashing can also be found in apartments, for example, on the ceiling in the kitchen or bathroom. Quite often, a bleach solution is used to finish a garage, a barn and a cellar in home gardens. And if you go outside the city, then in the villages you can still find neat white houses, in which, of course, the stove occupies a central place. Whitewashing the stove with lime is still relevant today.
If there is a need for whitewashing, then first of all you need to choose the material on the basis of which the bleaching solution will be made. The most common options are chalk and lime. Of course, each of the options has its positive and not so properties. What do you know about them? Nothing? Then meet:
Lime is a material that is obtained in the process of roasting carbonate rocks. It is used both in construction and for the production of various chemical compounds. Hydrated lime is used for bleaching, which is obtained by combining lime powder with water. It has the following positive characteristics:
- affordable and low cost of the material;
- has bactericidal properties;
- resistant to temperature fluctuations;
- moisture resistant;
- able to tighten small cracks;
- adheres well to brick, stone, wood and plaster.
Whitewashing with lime also has negative points:
- possible defects (streaks, stains, stains);
- there is a risk of burns.
Since lime is a sodium alkali, precautions must be taken when working with it to protect your health.
Chalk is a common and familiar material of natural origin. Advantages of chalk finish:
- affordable price;
- environmental friendliness;
- deep color white;
- easy to wash off - easy to remove a layer of white;
- simplicity and safety in work.
Flaws:
- easy to wash off - not suitable in a humid environment;
- possible defects (stains, streaks, bubbles, etc.).
How to extinguish lime for whitewashing correctly and safely?
In the event that the lime turned out to be more suitable option to finish the necessary surfaces, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for its preparation and extinguishing. You can buy this alkali in a hardware store in slaked (powder, dough) and quicklime (lumps). In the first case, it can immediately be added to the solution, and in the second case, it can be preliminarily extinguished.
Before extinguishing lime for whitewashing, you need to make sure that all precautions are observed and there is no danger to health. For safe work necessary:
- put on overalls and rubber gloves;
- protect your eyes with special goggles, and your nose with a respirator;
- extinguish lime only in metal containers;
- choose a well-ventilated area for this procedure.
In case of contact with lime on the skin, immediately rinse with plenty of running water for 15 minutes, and then consult a doctor.
After following all the precautionary procedures, you can begin to slake the lime. Extinguishing is chemical reaction, during which lime interacts with water. As a result, you can get fluff (powder) or lime dough, which will depend on the amount of water used.
To get fluff, you need to take 1 part of lime and 1 part of water, i.e. 1 kg of lumps of lime per 1 liter of water. Lumps are placed in a clean deep container, which are then filled with cold and clean water. Reacting, the lime heats up very much, which is accompanied by hissing and splashing. It will take about 30-40 minutes before the lye settles down. After that, it must be stirred with a wooden stick. As a result, after evaporation of moisture, a powder will be obtained.
Lime dough is a plastic mass, for the preparation of which you need 1 part of alkali and 3 parts of water. The further process is not particularly different: water is added in small portions to a container with lumps of lime and gradually stirred. During the reaction, moisture evaporates, but its content in the final product will be greater, which will make it possible to obtain a pasty consistency. With the help of the test, cement-sand mortars are strengthened and solutions are prepared for plastering works.
How to dilute lime for whitewashing at home depends on the form in which the alkali is present, it can be prepared according to several recipes. Mandatory ingredients in all formulations are water and table salt, so you should check their presence. And then we choose a recipe, adapt it to required volume and prepare a bleaching solution, the approximate consumption of which is 0.5 liters per 1 m2 of surface.
Recipe 1. Fluff - 400 g, water - 600 ml, table salt - 5 g, drying oil - 0.3 tbsp. Mix all ingredients thoroughly and pass through a sieve to remove lumps. To give a bluish tint to the resulting solution, you can add ultramarine - 20-25 g.
Recipe 2. Dough - 3 kg, water - 10 l, table salt - 100 g. The dough is diluted in half the volume of water and milk of lime is obtained. Salt is diluted separately in 1 liter of hot water, added to milk and mixed thoroughly. Coloring compositions are also soaked separately in water and gradually poured into the solution. Before use, the bleach mass is brought to a volume of 10 liters by adding the required amount of water.
Whitewashing with lime is rarely used these days. But sometimes there are situations when you have to do it.
For example, renovations in the apartment of elderly parents who do not recognize other options than lime whitewashing. Or refurbishing the class your kids are in.
Whitewashing with lime is cheap, in addition, lime has antiseptic properties. Due to the fact that lime is a good antiseptic, lime whitewash is recommended for kindergartens, schools, medical institutions.
You can whitewash a garage or basement with lime - it's not expensive, and it will become lighter from the white walls and ceiling. It is allowed to whitewash the walls with lime. After drying, lime whitewash creates a strong film, and whitewash will not remain on clothes if you lean against the wall.
Lime whitewash is used to finish wet visits due to moisture resistance.
Whitewashing with slaked lime disinfects the surface. For this reason, it is used for whitewashing cellars, chicken coops, cowsheds and other livestock premises.
In gardens, the bark of trees is treated with lime whitewash.
How to whitewash walls and ceilings
It is difficult to find a master who will undertake this work now. The work is not the cleanest. For low pay, the master will not work. The payment that he will name will seem too high to you. So, you will have to whiten yourself.
Do-it-yourself whitewashing with lime is not so much a difficult task as an unpleasant one, and most importantly, a dirty one. Before starting work, cover the floors and furniture with a film if it is not possible to completely free the room. Prepare protective clothing.
Lime consumption for whitewashing
The consumption of whitewash depends on the method of its application and on the treated surface. When applying whitewash with a brush, the consumption increases. For brick walls whitewashing will be required more than on smooth walls.
Approximate consumption is 0.5 liters of finished whitewash per 1 m².
On sale lime is slaked and quicklime. Slaked lime is sold in the form of powder - fluff lime, and in the form of lime dough.
Fluffy lime is diluted in a ratio of 3 liters of water per 1 kg of powder. From one package of fluff weighing 2 kg, you will get 6 liters of whitewash. This whitewash is enough for 12 m² of surface, provided that it is not brickwork.
Ready lime dough is diluted at the rate of 1 kg of dough per 3 liters of water. Remembering that one liter of whitewash can whitewash two squares of walls, it is easy to calculate how much lime dough is needed.
Quicklime, lumpy, must first be extinguished, then diluted with water.
For slaking, lime is poured with water in proportions of 1:1. As a result of quenching, you will get a powder. If you add three times more water, you will get lime dough. Powder or dough for preparing lime for whitewashing is diluted with water. From 1 kg of quicklime, 10 liters of whitewash are obtained, ready for use.
It is difficult to calculate the consumption of whitewash with an accuracy of a square. Lime is an inexpensive material, so nothing bad will happen if you buy a couple of extra packages.
How to dilute lime for whitewashing
Lime is diluted with water according to the proportions indicated above.
Quicklime is first slaked with precautions. When slaking lime, it releases a large number of heat, steam is produced. Possible splashing of extinguishing lime from the tank. Rubber gloves, goggles and heavy clothing will help you avoid burns if lime gets on your skin.
After quenching, lime is not immediately used for whitewashing; the solution must stand for at least two weeks. And only after you have endured a certain period, the solution can be diluted with water and proceed to whitewashing.
It is better to buy slaked lime, because it is easier, faster and safer to prepare it for work.
In diluted lime, based on 10 liters, add 2 tbsp. tablespoons of drying oil, 100 g of table salt and paint blue. Before adding, salt and blue are diluted in hot water. Salt and bluing gives whitewash whiteness, and drying oil contributes to better adhesion of whitewash to the surface and gives whitewash strength.
The saturation of the solution for whitewashing depends on the method of its application. When applying whitewash with a brush, the solution becomes thicker. When applying whitewash with a sprayer, the mixture should be more liquid and must be filtered through several layers of gauze.
Surface preparation
Puttying the walls before whitewashing helps to get smooth beautiful ceilings. But since whitewashing with lime is a cheap finishing option, usually the walls are not leveled or puttied.
So that the whitewash lies evenly and does not peel off after a week, the surface is cleaned and all contaminants are removed.
When whitewashing the ceiling with lime, the chalk whitewash is completely removed. If the ceiling was previously whitewashed with lime, you can leave the old whitewash if it holds well or remove it partially.
Yellow spots on the ceiling, left after the flooding of the neighbors, are washed with whiteness. A solution of copper sulphate helps to remove stains. But keep in mind that with further repairs, if you decide to paint the ceiling water-based paint, stains may appear again. Only not yellow, but green.
The surface to be whitewashed must be absorbent. By oil paint whitewash is not applied.
You can’t listen to advice that walls and ceilings need to be primed with a regular primer! The primer creates a film on the surface, on this film the whitewash will roll or collect into drops on the ceiling. This is just the case when priming is to your own detriment.
What tools are used for whitewashing
Whitewash the walls and ceiling with a brush, spray gun or spray gun.
Do not use a roller for whitewashing. When rolling out the second layer of whitewash with a roller, the first, dried up layer of paint will not withstand the load and will move away from the surface.
For whitewashing, a special brush is used. Soak brush before use warm water for a couple of hours.
Brick walls can be whitewashed with a regular brush with natural bristles. When whitewashing with a brush, stripes remain. So that the stripes from the brush are not noticeable, the second layer of whitewash must be applied in the direction of the light flux.
Whitewashing with lime with a spray gun gives the best results. Whitewash lays down evenly, lime consumption when whitewashing with an airbrush or spray gun is less than when applied with a brush.
Airbrushes are mechanical, more often they are called manual, or electric.
A manual spray gun is convenient in that it has a long rod and a long hose for supplying whitewash to the sprayer.
It is convenient to whitewash high ceilings with such an airbrush without the use of stepladders.
For electric spray guns, the power button is located next to the spray gun, so you can’t do without stepladders when working.
It is difficult to whitewash rooms of great height with such an airbrush - only from special stepladders.
On the video - whitewashing the ceiling with an electric spray gun.
Airbrushes are expensive tools. It is not advisable to purchase them for whitewashing one room. For whitewashing, you can use an old-style vacuum cleaner. The inconvenience is that the whitewash container is small - they usually use a 0.5 liter jar. We often have to interrupt work in order to add a new portion of whitewash.
For whitewashing, you can use sprayers for plants. In such sprayers, sufficient pressure is created to spray the whitewash. Sprayers are produced with a capacity of 15 to 5 liters.
Whitewash is poured into the container, then air is pumped in and when the button is pressed, the whitewash is evenly sprayed. A small spray can whitewash the walls and ceiling in a small room.
The sprayer with a capacity of 5 liters has a rod, with such a sprayer you can whitewash a room with high ceilings.
Operating procedure
- Cover windows, doors, furniture and floors with foil - this will make it easier for you to clean the room after whitewashing.
- Prepare the surface for whitewashing - remove chalky whitewash, get rid of stains and flaky limescale whitewash. Close up the cracks.
- Dilute the whitewash for work. If you are bleaching with an airbrush or spray gun, strain the solution. Before adding a new portion of whitewash to the spray gun container, mix the whitewash solution.
- When working with spray guns, take care to protect your face and hands. It is better to look funny than to suffer from lime burns later. Goggles or a mask, a respirator, rubber gloves, tight clothing - all this is necessary for protection.
- Before applying whitewash, lightly dampen the surface with a spray bottle.
- Pour the whitewash into the container of the spray gun, pump air into it. Adjust the spray nozzle so that the whitewash is sprayed evenly. If the whitewash does not spray, then it is too thick. Add water and mix well.
- The sprayer should be at a distance of 15-20 cm from the surface.
- Whitewash is applied in a circular motion.
- The second layer of whitewash is applied at intervals of one and a half to two hours over the wet first layer.
For cheap whitewashing and disinfection of walls, lime is most often used. Thanks to her, there will be no fungus and mold in the room. The room, the outer walls of the building will turn white. The cost of lime is much lower than the prices of other Decoration Materials. In addition, this mixture is moisture resistant and has high rate strength. When dried, a film is formed on the surface of the wall that can withstand the influence of various weather factors (rain, snow, etc.) for many years.
Lime is of two types - slaked (fluff), quicklime. Fluffy is sold in hardware stores in the form of dough and loose powder. For whitewashing 10-12 square meters will need to be diluted in three liters cold water one kilogram of the product (powder or dough). That's just the right way to dissolve lime in water gradually. First, they take a fluff in the amount of one kilogram and pour in half a liter of water. Mix thoroughly, the solution warms up slightly due to the chemical properties of the lime. Then again add water, no more than one liter, and stir. The action is continued until the solution acquires the desired consistency, i.e. it should not be thick or transparent. The density of store sour cream is just right. You don't need to start whitewashing right away. Let the diluted lime stand for a day or two. Quicklime is often used for cement mortars, plasterers. It makes them stronger and gives plasticity building material. For whitewashing, quicklime must first be extinguished. The process is not difficult, but requires compliance with security measures. Goggles, rubber gloves and clothing that covers all parts of the body (overalls) will be required to prevent lime solution from splashing into the eyes and onto the skin. Most often, construction stores sell medium-extinguishing lime. To properly redeem it, do the following:- Prepare a container - a bucket, a bowl (it is imperative that there is no rust anywhere).
- Fill the bucket with 0.25% lime.
- Pour cold water (1/2 bucket).
- Stir the mixture thoroughly with a long wooden stick.
- Crush the lumps of lime with a stick to make the solution even.
- The entire period during which the quicksand will boil, you need to keep stirring the milk. Boiling time - 5-7 minutes.
- Be careful not to get drops in your eyes or on your skin.
- Now you can add water so that the solution acquires the desired concentration.
- Give whitewash time to settle (a week) and only after that start work.
Now you know how to dilute and slake lime. Know that the whitewash solution should not be greasy or thin. If the concentration is high, then it cracks on the walls, respectively, the view will deteriorate. And with a low density, the whitewash will not have a saturated color. You can try the consistency with a stick to mix the solution. Just dip it. Then lay it down to dry. If the color is juicy, lays down evenly, does not exfoliate, then you can whiten.
Some time ago, the whitewashing of trees in the spring was a traditional event of April community work days. For this reason, perhaps, some gardeners begin their garden work with this event: elegant trees seem to announce the end of winter. But there are other opinions, according to which the solution interferes normal development plants during the period of awakening after winter, and, therefore, the whitewashing of garden trees in the spring is carried out more for beauty, and not for benefit.
Why whitewash trees?
Treatment of trees with special solutions is carried out to protect the bark from many external stressors, such as sun, frost and awakening garden pests. Therefore, it is possible to whitewash trees for treatment and prevention twice a year.
When to bleach trees
Only autumn whitewashing is able to fully fulfill its main purpose and help trees such as apple and cherry trees to winter. It should be carried out in a period when the leaves have already been shed, but there is still no snow and frost (as a rule, in the second half of October or a little later). It is better to choose a sunny day so that the paint can dry quickly and not wash off.
Since there are few whitewash formulations that last long enough on trees, whitewashing trees in the spring is highly desirable. It must be carried out in March or in early April. This allows not only to protect the bark from the strong spring rays of the sun, but also to help cope with some harmful overwintered insects.
How to properly whitewash trees. Barrel cleaning
Old trees usually have a very heterogeneous bark, covered with various cracks, growths, furrows, moss, etc. It is very difficult to whiten such a surface, and the solution will not be able to hold out for so long. Therefore, for the health of trees and for the convenience of whitewashing, the trunk should be cleaned. For these purposes, special scrapers are commercially available, but you can also use ordinary fabric gloves. They will make it possible to clean the bark of trees quite carefully and without any damage. It is a little easier to do the job with a metal scraper, but great care is required, as you can accidentally clean off healthy bark.
During the cleaning, moss and growths are removed, as well as the dead old layer of bark, which will later be replaced by a new one. All this is home to harmful insects. All garbage should be burned.
Disinfection and damage treatment
Not all types of whitewash can effectively destroy pests, so it is recommended to pre-treat the bark with a special disinfectant. To do this, you can use a solution of Bordeaux mixture or other preparations. It is important to apply them in such a way that it is covered with a solution, but drops do not drip from it. It is best to use a small spray gun. Regularly apply strong chemicals not worth it, because they tend to accumulate and harm both the tree and you.
If there is ashes in the house, you can make a wonderful remedy for harmful insects from it. In addition, it can also serve as a top dressing. It is done as follows: 2-3 kg of ash is diluted in 10 liters of water and a small piece of soap is added. This processing spend on a sunny day.
Existing cracks or wounds on the bark are treated special means to protect wood and accelerate healing. It is best to use a garden var. As a rule, experienced gardeners do it themselves. There are many recipes. The easiest option is to make a clay mash with mullein and straw. It is not very durable, but it can still serve for some time.
Applying whitewash
It is most convenient to whitewash trees with a spray gun. This allows you to save time and paint over all the bumps and grooves well. But this will require more solution, and not everyone has the apparatus itself. Therefore, brushes corresponding to the thickness of the trunk are more often used.
Whitewashing trees in the spring is performed from the bottom up to the first branches. Often the trunk is whitened in height only a meter or even lower. But frosts and pests can harm a tree and higher. Cracks often appear in the fork between large branches. Therefore, it is necessary to apply the composition high enough, as well as paint the warp of the lower branches.
What are the best tools to use
Whitewash compositions are very different, and their purpose is different. Simple whitewashing trees with lime in spring is not very effective, as it will wash off after a few rains. Clay, glue or manure should be added to lime for better adhesion (which is available). For better protection vitriol is added to the whitewash.
Of great importance when whitewashing is the age of the tree. Older ones can withstand more additives. Young seedlings need to be bleached more carefully. They use only chalk or lime for whitewashing trees with natural additives, because they have a rather delicate skin that cannot be clogged with glue (they will not be able to breathe normally and will slow down in growth).
If there is no time to look for and breed all the components on your own, there is also a ready-made whitewash for sale. Adhesive and protective additives have already been added to its composition, and at the same time it allows you to “breathe”. Whitewash is sold in a diluted or dry form (it should be diluted with water according to the instructions). acrylic paint it is undesirable to use for whitewashing. Although it looks, of course, beautiful and does not wash off much longer. The trunks are elegant, bright, snow-white, but they do not breathe at all.
We suggest considering what whitewashing can have fruit trees spring composition.
Whitewashing trees in spring: a composition of lime, glue, clay and vitriol
The advantage of this mixture is that it adheres well, does not wash off for a long time, and is environmentally friendly. Suitable for mature trees.
Dilute in water (about half a bucket) 50g of wallpaper paste. After it disperses well, add 2 kg of slaked lime and 400 g of diluted very hot water vitriol. Add 1 kg of clay and 1 kg of manure. You can use 100 gr instead. Mix the composition well until a homogeneous mass. In density, it should be similar to sour cream.
Composition of lime, clay and copper sulfate
This mixture has been used for many years, but still has not lost its popularity among gardeners.
Whitewashing trees in spring, the composition of lime, clay and vitriol has the following. Put out 2.5 kg of lime with water. This is done in this way: 6 liters of water are poured into a bucket and lime is poured. Be sure to cover the bucket with a lid and let it, so to speak, “boil”. After about 15-20 minutes, the lime will stop splashing. Now you need to add 300 g of vitriol, previously diluted in hot water. To make the mixture thicker and stick better, add 2 kg of clay. The solution should be well kneaded so that it becomes thicker and does not have lumps. It is better to cover trees with such a composition in two layers.
Composition for young seedlings and trees
Here you can use only environmentally friendly and the simplest ingredients that do not clog pores on young seedlings.
The composition is as follows: mix 2 kg with 1 kg of manure and 1-1.5 kg of clay. Then add water until you get the consistency of thick sour cream.
Clay and manure have disinfectant and adhesive properties. This composition can be used to whitewash all trees, not just young ones.
The composition is applied with a wide brush. Start whitewashing from the top and move down.
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