Diseases of roses and their treatment. What pests and diseases affect garden and indoor roses? Indoor roses diseases and pests

15.06.2019

The indoor rose is one of the most sought-after and beloved houseplants, however, like many others, it is susceptible to various fungi and bacteria. In addition, non-communicable diseases caused by adverse external conditions can also survive. Despite the fact that the plant is considered unpretentious and easy to care for, pathogens can ruin the life of both flowers and their owners. How to prevent and treat diseases of indoor roses?

First of all, young or weak plants, as well as those that are poorly and inattentively looked after, are prone to diseases.

powdery mildew

One of the most common fungal infections of room roses is powdery mildew, which can develop as a result of poor ventilation of the room, excessive fertilizer, and crowding of plants in one room. The disease manifests itself in the form of a white coating on the leaves and stems. With the development of this disease of indoor roses, the leaves dry up and fall off. Powdery mildew is treated by removing affected leaves and buds and treating with fungicides.

downy mildew

This and the previous disease are often confused. The difference is that with downy mildew, plaque is observed only on the lower part of the leaves. At the same time, yellowish spots can be found on the top. This lesion usually spreads wet leaves and treated with fungicides.

rose rust

Continuing to talk about the diseases of indoor roses, one cannot help but recall the so-called rust. This disease manifests itself in the form of the appearance of red or brown pustules on the leaves of the plant. main reason- improper care. In order to prevent this disease, one should not forget about the timely ventilation of the room, about the correct temperature regime, humidity and other features If the rose is already affected, the leaves with pustules are removed and the bush is sprayed with special means.

spotting

This disease is very common. If you notice that brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which gradually increase and merge into one, affecting the entire leaf - this is spotting. The disease can be caused by both bacteria and fungus. It is treated by removing the affected leaves and shoots and spraying with preparations with copper. Usually, after this disease, watering is reduced and spraying is stopped for a while.

Pests

Indoor rose, whose diseases are numerous and very common, can also be affected by pests. Their most common representative is spider mite. It appears as a result of a lack of moisture and dry air in the room. If you find bright dots on a rose that gradually turn into spots, you are dealing with a spider mite. Rinse the cobwebs from the rose and take care of increasing the humidity of the air. For washing the leaves can be used for animals. When these steps are done, treat the plant with acaricides - special preparations from the described pest that affects roses.

Diseases and pests do not end there. You can also encounter rose aphids that attack leaves and buds. Thrips, another pest, causes spotting and deformed flowers. The leaves become brownish with a sheen. In this case, the plant should be treated with insecticides.

Do not forget that proper and timely care is the best prevention of any indoor rose disease. All they need for their health is fresh air, proper watering and light room.

Diseases of indoor roses and the fight against them are not much different from the therapeutic measures that are carried out in relation to landscape gardening. rose bushes. It is known that pests of roses in the form of various insects sometimes cause irreparable harm to plants, so any person who keeps them at home should be aware of what a fragile and whimsical can get. home flower, and how it is necessary to carry out the fight against the misfortune that has overtaken him.

Rose pests

Insects are a great danger during the period when the flower begins to actively grow and develop (during the formation of buds, leaves, buds). The indoor rose is especially vulnerable in these parts, since they feed on beetles, caterpillars and their small larvae, sometimes invisible to the naked eye. The main signs of damage to a flower by pests, as a rule, are the following:

the leaf becomes gnawed at the edges;
insect passages are found inside the leaf;
buds, flowers, pistils and stamens are damaged or completely destroyed.

rose aphid

Settles from below, on foliage and young branches, as well as on the flowers themselves in the form of small, almost imperceptible larvae, which are laid by adults. At the end of summer, the aphid becomes a butterfly and produces more and more offspring, sucking all the juice from the rose. The flower begins to quickly wither and deform, the foliage curls and falls off, and the buds become ugly.

To avoid the dominance of these insects on indoor roses, in the early spring, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment with the help of ready-made chemical insecticides: Antio, Aktellika, karbofos or metathion. For medicinal purposes, it is effective to spray the flower twice with a solution of kerosene at the rate of two grams of the substance per ten liters of water (for small indoor roses in pots, you can reduce the volume of water to five liters, and kerosene will be enough in the amount of one gram).

The volume of water and the amount of active ingredient depend on how many roses are in the room and what size they are. It is usually customary to indicate the total volume of liquid in the amount of 10 liters, but if the flower is small, prepare this a large number of solution is meaningless. The best option is to reduce the volume of water to five liters. Accordingly, the substance should be half as much: for a small rose in a pot, this will be enough - and so on.

To combat rose aphids, this solution is often used: 150 g of finely chopped garlic or onion + 200 g of tomato leaf are taken and placed in a one and a half liter jar. Then it is filled with water, and the composition must be infused in heat for six hours. Then the resulting mass is thoroughly mixed, filtered through cheesecloth, and the total volume of liquid is brought to 5 liters of water. In order for the composition not to drain from the leaves, 20 grams of liquid soap should be added to it, preferably green. The solution is also effective against other pests - such as sawflies, various caterpillars or mites.

Rose leafhopper

A characteristic sign of damage to a room rose by a cicada is small whitish dots, due to which the leaf acquires an unhealthy marbled hue. If insects have severely damaged a rose, its leaves turn yellow ahead of time and begin to fall off.

The larvae can most often be seen from below on the foliage, in spring: they are white, almost do not move and suck out the juice. It is important not to miss the moment when the larvae begin to appear in large numbers. The flower must be treated twice with any chemical insecticide. The interval between procedures is ten to twelve days.

Drooling pennitsa or omnivorous leafhopper

Signs of a rose affected by it are easy to see: a discharge similar to saliva appears on the plant. The pest settles in the leaf axils, usually from below. Like other insects, it is destroyed by insecticides - by spraying twice with a ten-day interval.

Very dangerous, looks like a yellow-green insect with black spots on the back. The larvae are green, small, and egg clutches can be found under a layer of thin gossamer. As well as its other harmful "colleagues", the spider mite harms the foliage of a room rose from the underside, sucking out all the juices from them. The leaf begins to wither, turn yellow, in places of damage by the jaws of the insect, small pale spots can be observed.

As a treatment, avermectin substances are used: they are used when it comes to "closed ground" or growing roses indoors. If the temperature in the room is + 20C, three treatments with an interval of 10 days will be enough, and in hot weather conditions (+30 and above), the treatment scheme changes: you need to carry out three to four procedures, the interval between which should be three to four days.

leaf rollers

Leaf rollers are harmful caterpillars, which entomologists count up to three. different types. They cause irreparable damage to the leaves of indoor roses, starting in spring and attacking young twigs and leaves.

If there are few leaflets, they can simply be collected by hand and disposed of, and the plant can be sprayed with any suitable compound from the pesticide group. As a rule, in a room, such measures are sufficient.

Sawflies destroy indoor flowers in both ascending and descending ways. The second type of insect is more widespread. Usually they are long, black, with dark wings and yellowish legs, a bit like bees.

When the caterpillar leaves the egg, it begins to bite into the branch, gnaws a passage in it and begins to live and develop there. As a result, the shoots quickly turn black and dry. effective means pesticides will serve to destroy the rose sawfly.

Bronze and deer

These are bright beetles of the same family. The bronze is golden green, and the deer is black and shaggy. The bronze is larger, up to 20 mm in length, and the deer is smaller, up to 12 mm. They feed on flower petals, especially pistils and stamens, and roses of light shades have to suffer from them the most.

Since the deer and bronze appear in room conditions rarely, The best way dealing with them - just pick them up with your hands in the morning while they sleep motionless on the plants.

rose diseases

Diseases of domestic roses most often occur under adverse growing conditions. In order to cure a rose, it is necessary, first of all, to improve its living conditions (put it in a warmer, lit place, it is better to water it or, conversely, do not overdo it with water). Also, overfeeding with fertilizers does not benefit the indoor flower: it can also get sick due to this reason.

powdery mildew

Powdery mildew affects young plants, and this happens in cool and excessively humid weather. The surface of the foliage is covered with a whitish coating, which is also found on the buds and thorns.

At first, separate formations appear, then they merge into a continuous mass and completely affect the surface. The leaves curl and the rose can die quickly. As a spray, solutions of soda ash are used (50 grams are taken per 10 liters of water) or colloidal sulfur (1% suspension).

Marsonine black spot

Fungal disease, which is characterized by the appearance of black or brown spots - usually in the middle of summer. Spots can be seen on the foliage, except for it - in the area of stipules and petioles. Diseased leaves should be picked and burned, and the flower should be sprayed (usually twice with an interval of 10 days) with any mildly toxic fungicide.

Rust

It manifests itself in a room rose in the form of bright orange spores on the underside of the foliage and occurs when the spring is too wet and warm. The plant dries out, it quickly withers, because rust is also a fungal infection that quickly spreads throughout the rose.

Just as in the case of black spot, diseased areas are eliminated and burned, the flower is treated with fungicides or with a copper-soap solution, which is especially effective in spring, during a period of intensive growth.

Chlorosis

It is characterized by the fact that the leaves begin to discolor or turn yellow. In some forms of chlorosis, the veins of the foliage may remain green. In any case, chlorosis is clear sign the fact that a room rose lacks important minerals - such as potassium, calcium, manganese, zinc. If you do not take action, the leaves fall off, and the flower can quickly wither.

Here you can not do without outside help specialists: it is important to establish the cause and type of chlorosis by laboratory analysis of the earth in a pot or the flower itself - and only then take appropriate measures.

downy mildew downy mildew

Too fungal disease, the appearance of which is accompanied by brown spots, and the underside of the foliage is covered with a grayish bloom. Gradually, the spots begin to acquire a reddish tint or turn brown, the leaf flies around, and the diseased parts of the flower die.

The risk of peronosporosis increases with heavy rains and hot weather. In this case, fungicides are also used, which should also be used from time to time as a preventive measure - especially if weather conditions contribute to this.

Preparation of spray solutions

How to treat a rose from pests on your own - you can prepare one or another solution, carefully observing all proportions and keeping in mind that most of the numbers are based on 9-10 liters of water. The most popular are the following compositions:

Copper-soap solution. AT hot water, in the amount of 9 liters, dissolve 300 grams of liquid concentrated green soap. Instead, you can use economic. After the soap has dissolved in water, 30 g of copper sulfate is added to the hot solution. Everything is mixed until a homogeneous mass and cooled, after which you can proceed to spraying. Important point: when it appears in the composition of flakes, it is unacceptable to use it.
Bordeaux liquid, 1%. Copper sulfate is taken (100g). quicklime (also 100g), then it is quenched in a special container until milk of lime is obtained. In another container, vitriol is diluted, then poured into where the milk of lime is located. The suitability of the composition for use is checked by lowering an iron nail into it. If it is covered with a copper coating, lime must be added to it until the plaque on the nail stops appearing.

Folk remedies for roses

Among folk remedies to protect domestic roses, compositions against diseases and compositions used against pests are isolated, many of which can be easily prepared independently.

Remedies for rose diseases

Among the folk remedies against diseases of roses, there are those that are especially effective in case of defeat. indoor flower powdery mildew or rust:

Powdery mildew: mullein mixed with ash helps. Fresh manure (1 kg) is diluted in 10 liters of water with the addition of 200 g of ash. Everything is mixed. Infuse for a week, warm, then strain using cheesecloth. Usually, one spray is enough, but in severe cases, the procedure is repeated after three days.
Rust: V.I. Michurin. After removing the diseased parts of the flower, the stem of the milkweed is broken off. A drop of its juice is rubbed on the sore spots of the rose. The procedure is repeated 2-3 times a day.

Rose pest control

A large number of folk remedies are used against insects. Here are some of them:

shag (400g) or other tobacco waste is boiled in nine liters of water for half an hour. The mixture is infused in heat for 2 days, filtered well, then 40 g of green soap are dissolved in a liter of water, and all this is mixed;
onion or garlic (300g) and tomato leaf (200g) are minced with a meat grinder, placed in water (3l). Insist 5-6 hours, strain. Bring the volume of liquid to 10 liters, with the addition of soap (40g);
dry hot pepper (200g) is crushed, mixed with two liters of water. Boil over medium heat for an hour. Insist for two days, then crush the parts of the pepper floating in the liquid, drain the broth, squeeze the vegetables. Strain, bring the volume of liquid to two liters. Pour a liter of the finished broth into the prepared 10 liters of fresh water. Add soap, 40g.

In order to prevent diseases of indoor roses and protect flowers from pests in time, they must be carefully looked after, paying attention to their condition. At the first signs of damage, measures should be taken - only in this case a positive outcome and a further healthy state of the flower are possible.

We treat a room rose for diseases:

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In addition to insect pests, there are a large number of fungal organisms that cause and contribute to the development various diseases roses. For the successful cultivation of healthy and beautiful plants it is necessary to know the diseases of roses and their methods of treatment and be able to recognize diseases at an early stage.
Most pathogens of roses have the ability - long time will be preserved on dead plant residues and therefore it is very important to collect absolutely all fallen leaves, cut shoots, removed weeds and burn them.
If the leaves are not removed from the bushes before the winter shelter of roses, then the eggs of pests and fungal spores remaining on them will perfectly endure the winter, and with the onset of spring they will hit the plant.
It is recommended for prophylactic purposes to treat the bushes in the spring with a solution of copper oxychloride (0.4%), and in the fall with ferrous sulfate (3%). It is very important to disinfect the cutting tools before starting pruning, and treat the cut points with garden pitch or clay mortar.
rose rust
One of the most common diseases, rose rust is a fungal disease that is caused by a rust fungus.

As a rule, it occurs in a weakened plant in a cold spring after a harsh winter and completely affects the plant around the middle of summer. Symptoms of rose rust, which appear as early as early spring, are rusty spots on the upper side of the leaves and bright orange pads, which are clusters of spores, on the underside of the leaves, which turn black in the second half of summer. Infected leaves fall off, and young shoots turn red and shrivel.
Rose rust control methods:
removal and destruction of the affected parts of the plant at the initial stage of the development of the disease;

spraying the plant with a decoction of horsetail;

dusting the bush with ground sulfur, or with a mixture consisting of ground sulfur with slaked lime in a ratio of 5: 1;

spraying and watering plants with tincture of wormwood consisting of 400-500 g of fresh leaves and 40-50 g of dried wormwood leaves filled with 10 liters cold water and infused for 2-2.5 weeks until the start of fermentation. Before use, such an infusion must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10;

in case of severe damage, treatment with copper-containing preparations of the lower

leaf surface 1 time in 2.5-3 weeks;

as an extreme measure - spraying with a solution (1%) of Bordeaux liquid.

Rose diseases: black spot

At the initial stage of the development of the disease, the upper surface of the leaves is covered with very rapidly growing dark brown spots with yellowish edges. After 1.5-2 weeks, the leaves of the plant turn yellow and fall off, then the stems become stained, flowering stops, growth stops, the rose loses all foliage and the plant dies.
Black spot control methods:
systematic destruction of the affected parts of the individual on initial stage disease development;

spraying with a decoction of horsetail;

spraying with sulfur-containing preparations 1 time in 7-10 days with severe damage;

spraying with copper-containing preparations, such as copper-soap emulsion and copper sulfate (5%);

extreme measure of control - 1 time in 6-8 days with a solution (1%) of Bordeaux liquid, watering the soil around the bush and spraying the entire plant.

powdery mildew
Powdery mildew, the most common disease of roses, got its name because it forms on stems, leaves and young shoots. white coating. It is very similar to flour, and after the spore matures, a liquid resembling dew drops begins to stand out.

Most often, this disease affects greenhouse and indoor varieties of roses, as well as actively growing young shoots and leaves. The disease is caused by a fungus and spreads very quickly throughout the plant and is transferred to neighboring bushes.
At first, powdery mildew spots are easily erased, and under them there are no noticeable damage to living tissues, but after 1.5-2 weeks they cover the entire bush, turning into a solid white coating. This leads to twisting and falling of leaves, curvature of stems, deformation of flowers and death of young shoots. As a result, the bush quickly withers and very often dies.
The infection develops very quickly under such favorable conditions as a hot, humid day and a cool, conducive night.
This disease is much easier to prevent than to fight it. In autumn, you need to remove all affected shoots from the plant, remove all leaves under the bush and burn. Add ashes under the bush and dig it up with the obligatory transshipment of the soil - this will make it difficult for oxygen to reach the pathogens. It is recommended for prophylaxis in autumn and early spring to spray roses with a solution (3%) blue vitriol.
Powdery mildew control measures:
exclude fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers that stimulate the development of the fungus, giving preference to ash and potash fertilizers;

on the early stage diseases, organic preparations are effective - 1 kg of manure diluted in 10 liters of water and 200-300 g of wood ash, infused for 5-7 days. Then the infusion should be filtered and sprayed on the bush at intervals of 1 time in 4-5 days until the signs of the disease disappear completely;

with an average degree of damage, a copper-soap solution is effective, consisting of 100 g of grated laundry soap dissolved in 10 liters of water, with the addition of 30-40 g of copper sulfate. With such a solution, you need to spray the bush at intervals of 1 time in 8-10 days;

in case of severe damage, apply special means such as topsin and benomyl. It is necessary to carry out treatment with such preparations in a row 3-4 times at intervals of 1.5-2 weeks. In the case of an advanced disease, the affected plant must be removed and destroyed to avoid damage to neighboring plants.

Rose treatment
There is whole line The main reasons why roses most often get sick:
improper pruning, after which the cut point does not overgrow for a very long time;

evening watering of plants;

plants growing next to roses are already infected with bacterial diseases - most likely rose bushes will suffer the same fate;

cool humid climate actively contributes to the development of fungal diseases;

waterlogging or lack of moisture;

lack of nutrients in the soil.
The method of treatment of roses depends on the disease:

fungal diseases are treated by destroying infected leaves and pruning the plant;

sulfur or Funginex is used to combat mold foci;

in case of a bacterial disease, the infected stem must be removed and destroyed along with the ulcer;

with sulfuric rot on branches and buds, the affected parts must be removed;

in the event of a bacterial gall disease, it is necessary to remove the infected plant from the garden or flower bed as soon as possible, otherwise it will lead to the death of crops growing nearby.

The treatment of roses after wintering deserves special attention, since the plant has weakened and become very vulnerable over a long cold and damp period. The main diseases are stem blight, fusarium rot, and bacterial canker develop due to poor ventilation and excessive moisture during the dormant period. In this case, roses need to be fed with mineral and complex fertilizers. Carry out the necessary course of treatment of diseases with the help of drugs. In case of severe infection, the plant or its infected parts must be removed.
Protection of roses from pests
The main pests of roses are:

It must be said that many diseases primarily affect young and weakened plants, plants that are not carefully and properly cared for.

powdery mildew

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Oidium, Sphaeroteca, Microsphaera, etc. is a common fungal disease. This disease not only weakens and depresses the plant, but often leads to death. It manifests itself in a characteristic white (similar to flour) plaque on the leaves, mainly on their upper side, then on the stems and buds. A poorly ventilated room, excessive fertilizer and crowding of plants contribute to the disease.

Control measures. In diseased plants, remove the affected shoots, leaves, buds. If the disease has spread strongly, covered all the leaves, it is easier to cut off all the shoots at the root, leaving 5 cm hemp. After that, be sure to spray everything that remains after pruning with Topaz, and also spray the ground and the walls of the pot. In addition to topaz, other drugs can be used, for example, fundazol. Dilute fungicides according to the instructions and be sure to re-spray.

downy mildew

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Peronospora, Plasmoparma, etc. - easy to confuse with a previous disease. The difference is that with downy mildew, the underside of the leaf is covered with a white fluffy coating of fungal spores. And on the upper side of the leaves you can see light or purple spots. Downy mildew spreads primarily on wet leaves.

Control measures. In diseased plants, the affected shoots, leaves, buds are removed, the plant is treated with a fungicide, and each time it is better to treat the plants with different fungicides in order to exclude the occurrence of resistance (addiction) of fungi to the drug. Usually 2-3 treatments are enough.

Spotted roses

This is rather not one disease, but a group with similar symptoms, pathogens, both fungi and bacteria. At the same time, spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which, with the spread of the disease, grow in size, merge and affect the entire leaf as a whole. Spots can be dry or weeping, along the edge or over the entire surface of the leaf. In roses, this disease often manifests itself in the second half of the growing season, this is facilitated by increased humidity of the air and soil, thickened crown, poor ventilation of the room, dense stale (not loose earth in a pot.

Control measures. Removal of affected leaves and shoots. Spraying with any copper-containing preparations (oxych, hom, Bordeaux liquid) or sulfur preparations (colloidal sulfur, thiovit-jet, mancozeb, thiram), regulation of watering and stopping spraying with plain water until recovery. Usually 2-3 treatments are required (including the ground surface). Please note that all fungicides containing copper leave blue or blue streaks on the leaves.

With this disease, pustules form on the back of the leaf, which can be completely different color- from red or orange to dark brown, they protrude above the leaf as warts or papillomas, always round in shape. Brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaf over time.

Control measures. Remove all suspicious leaves as soon as possible. Spraying with fungicides designed specifically for the control of rust fungi, such as topaz. Rose rust is promoted by keeping in a poorly ventilated area, with high humidity and high air temperature.

Rose pests

rose aphid

A pest that affects both leaves and buds. The shoots and leaves are curled, covered with sticky secretions of aphids, on which the sooty fungus settles. It all looks as if the plant has dandruff or flakes, flowers and buds are deformed. Damaged parts become discolored, the leaves curl, turn yellow and fall off. The plant is strongly oppressed and stops normal development. The buds do not open, the flowers become contaminated with secretions. Aphids are especially dangerous in spring, affecting the tips of young shoots. At home, roses can become infected through garden soil or with plants from the store.

Control measures. Remove all affected shoots, wash the foliage 2-3 times with soapy water. Then spray and water the bushes with a solution of the actar preparation. If the lesion is very strong, for example, from cuttings cut in a garden where aphids are rampant, then it is better to soak in an actellic solution (20 drops per 1 liter of water).

spider mite

It used to be that the appearance of mites is promoted by too dry and warm air in the room, however, this opinion has been debunked by many years of experience: roses are affected by mites in any climate, with any air humidity, they simply have an extremely high susceptibility. But in dry and hot conditions, mites multiply many times faster than in cool and high humidity, in just 3 days they can damage a whole rose bush in a pot. Ticks hide on the underside of the leaf, in the axils of shoots and buds. The surface of damaged leaves is first covered with pale dots - places where cell sap is sucked out, but later they increase, solid whitish spots form, the leaves curl and fall off.

If you are not sure if there are mites on the roses, take a magnifying glass and inspect reverse side leaf - you can see the skins from molting ticks (whitish husks), or the ticks themselves: they can be almost invisible - gray, or yellow-red, brick-colored or dark brown (a variety of many species).

Control measures. Against ticks, drugs of the insectoacaricide class or - Actelik, Neoron, Fitoverm, Apollo, Vermitek, Etisso Blattlaus-Sticks sticks (stick into the ground) and others are used. Since ticks are highly resistant (resistance to chemistry with each new generation), drugs need to be changed or alternated. If you buy a rose in a store, bring cuttings from the garden, root a rose from a cut (bouquet), the probability that it has a mite is about 90%, if not more. Therefore, prevention is simply a must: spray the leaves very carefully from all sides with fitoverm. Another method of prevention is regular hot shower. Roses tolerate contact with hot water 53-55°C. Under strong pressure from the shower, the water washes away ticks, egg-laying, cobwebs. If you carry out 4-5 procedures in a row, you can get rid of ticks without chemicals. .

thrips

This pest comes to us, most often, with garden flowers and from bouquets. And contribute to their faster reproduction of high temperature and low humidity. At home, thrips can harm roses all year round but especially in spring and summer.

Fungicides for the treatment of roses

Fundazol is a systemic fungicide for protecting plants from diseases (leaf spot, powdery mildew, etc.). Produced in packages of 10 g. To prepare a working solution, 1 sachet is diluted with 10 liters of water. It is required to evenly spray the leaves.

This drug is very controversial, there is no consensus about its safety for both humans and plants. There are known cases of phytotoxicity, inhibition of plant growth from the decomposition products of benomyl (dibutylurea is formed - it inhibits the processes of photosynthesis). Therefore, it is permissible to use only a fresh drug, not expired.

In addition, the use of foundationazole leads to the emergence of resistance in fungi not only to benomyl, but also to a number of other fungicides. And the last thing - fundazol is not a panacea and is not able to cure roses immediately completely and irrevocably. Officially, foundationol is allowed in Russia (see the reference book of pesticides and agrochemicals allowed in the Russian Federation).

Sulfur - its preparations belong to insectofungicides. In indoor floriculture, powdered sulfur is used to pollinate roses in the fight against pests (mainly mites and powdery mildew). Quite an effective drug. Can be purchased at a gardening store called "colloidal sulfur" or "Thiovit-Jet". If you have signs of disease on roses, sulfur preparations are the very first thing you can try in treatment.

Agat-25K is a biological preparation for protecting plants from diseases and increasing productivity. Increases seed germination, enhances the development of the root system. It is successfully used for indoor plants as a prophylactic and light fertilizer. The active substance is inactivated Pseudomonas aureofaciens bacteria, biologically active substances of plant and microbial origin, macro- and microelements. Produced in the form of a flowing paste in bottles of 10g. 1 measuring spoon of the drug is diluted in 3 liters of water until completely dissolved, then the plants are sprayed three to four times with an interval of 20 days.

Insecticides for the treatment of roses

Fitoverm is an insectoacaricide, after 6-8 hours after treatment, gnawing pests stop eating (for suckers, this time is extended to 12-16 hours). It should be borne in mind that the death of pests occurs 2-3 days after treatment, and the maximum effect is achieved on 5-7 days.

To combat ticks, dilute 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water, with aphids - 1 ampoule per 0.25 l, and with thrips - 1 ampoule per 0.2 l of water. A maximum of 2 treatments are carried out with an interval of 7-10 days. Do not use too often against ticks - causes resistance. But it is great as a preventive measure, especially at home.

Aktara is a good insecticide with systemic properties, it works against aphids, thrips, whiteflies, scale insects, mealybugs, fungal mosquitoes. But the maximum effect will be achieved only with simultaneous watering and spraying on the leaf (if mosquitoes, only watering). Requires 1-2 treatments.

Actellik - insectoacaricide for the control of aphids, scale insects, whiteflies, mites and other plant pests. Produced in ampoules of 2 ml. The contents of the ampoule are diluted in 2 liters of water, in case of severe pest damage - 1 ampoule per 0.7 l of water. Spray with a freshly prepared solution, evenly wetting the leaves. The optimum temperature for processing is 12-25°C. Dangerous for humans - hazard class II, apply in extreme cases.

Inta-vir - insecticide for the destruction of insect pests of horticultural crops and indoor plants. Effective against aphids, thrips, leaf-eating caterpillars, whiteflies. Produced in the form of tablets. One tablet is diluted in 10 liters of water. Spraying of plants is carried out with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves. A maximum of 3 treatments are carried out.