Make your own sliding doors for the closet. What material are wardrobes made from?

The sliding wardrobe is not only fashionable, but also a very convenient interior detail. In our cramped apartments, cabinets with sliding doors have taken root perfectly, because they take up a lot of space. less space. Fits very well in closet computer desk and disappears as soon as you close the cabinet door... Yes, such cabinets are just a godsend, because they are made according to individual orders and embody almost any of our desires. But when we are just going to buy a wardrobe, a lot of questions arise.

What is the closet made of?

When buying a wardrobe, it should be important for each of us what material it is made of. In most cases, chipboard (chipboard) is used for these purposes: a cabinet made of this material is strong, durable and, importantly, inexpensive. But there are some nuances that you need to be aware of.
For example, you see on the closet P-A marking, 1, M, W, E1, GOST 10632-89. It's getting scary, isn't it?
But everything is simple here: P-A, 1, M, W - this is fine-structured (M) polished (W) chipboard of the first grade (1 in the marking) brand P-A. It is in this version that the so-called "furniture chipboard" is used. It is not at all necessary to know the meaning of each of the designations, the main thing is to remember that it is precisely such chipboard that should be used in the manufacture of furniture.
The main interest is the designation E1 in the chipboard marking. It indicates how high the content of formaldehyde resins in chipboard is. The fact is that chipboard is made from wood shavings and sawdust, which are held together by these same formaldehyde resins. Over time, formaldehyde resins begin to be released into the air, and this is dangerous to health. There are two types of chipboard: E1 and E2. Chipboard E1 emits less harmful fumes into the air. But chipboard E2 is very toxic, so it is even forbidden to use it in the production of children's furniture. This is the point that should be given priority.
In addition, if you are interested in a closet for a bathroom or other room with high humidity, choose chipboard with increased level moisture resistance - it is indicated by the letter "B".
Naturally, cabinets made of simple polished chipboard cannot please us with a wide variety of colors and textures, so laminated chipboard is used in the manufacture of furniture. Unlike conventional chipboard, it is covered with a layer of paper-resin film. The paper is covered with a layer of thermosetting polymers, which is firmly soldered to the chipboard. Laminated chipboard is durable and resistant to any damage.
MirSovetov recommends: read on the label which chipboard was used in the manufacture of your cabinet: laminated or laminated. The fact is that at an equal cost, laminated chipboard begins to crumble quickly and the film begins to lag behind, so a cabinet made of such chipboard will quickly lose its attractive appearance. Of course, you can order a wardrobe made of solid wood. But it will be several times more expensive.
Another material for wardrobes is MDF. In fact, this is the same chipboard, only made using improved technology. Boards are formed from dried wood fibers, treated with binders and subjected to hot pressing. As a result, MDF does not contain phenol and other hazardous substances. MDF is very resistant to high humidity, fungi and bacteria.

Now there are two types of systems for sliding wardrobes: steel and aluminum. Steel systems are durable, strong and inexpensive, so they are classified as "economy class". Due to the heavy weight of the structures, the wardrobe looks more rough, in addition, steel rollers will be visible from the outside. Luxury sliding wardrobes are equipped with aluminum frames and a special door opening mechanism. Naturally, they are much more expensive, although they are not inferior to steel in strength, because with the help of special additives, aluminum can be given a very high hardness, while maintaining ease of processing.
The sliding wardrobe door is completely inserted into a steel or aluminum frame, to which rollers are attached from above or below. In high-quality cabinets, the rollers are attached from below, and only the guide “rail” is located on top. The "rails" on which the rollers roll have high edges, so that the rollers do not fly off the rail when they are opened sharply. If, on the contrary, the door hangs on rollers and is not fixed in any way from below, the mechanism will fail very quickly, the door will constantly slide off the “rails”. Rollers on sliding wardrobes of a class "lux" are put special - on ball bearings. This ensures silent door opening.

The sliding wardrobe can be made cabinet or fully built-in.
The cabinet wardrobe differs from the usual wardrobe only in the design of the doors, but otherwise they are very similar.
But the built-in wardrobe has a lot of differences. Firstly, to install a built-in wardrobe, you only need a back and two side walls. A frame is built into the opening between the side walls, floor and ceiling, doors are installed on it - and the wardrobe is ready. At your request, in the design of the built-in wardrobe, side and rear walls, or just some of them, can be used.
Now you need to decide how many shelves and sections you will have in your closet. It all depends on what kind of wardrobe you need. If the wardrobe is installed in, it must certainly have sections for outerwear and hats, as well as for shoes.
Hanger for outerwear can be of two types. In the first option, these are one or two rods installed parallel to the door, on which there will be hangers with clothes. In the case of two bars, the higher one is used for long coats and fur coats, and hangers with shirts, jackets or blouses are placed on the lower one. In the second option, if the closet is not deep enough (less than 60 cm), short end rods are fixed perpendicular to the door on the back wall. These rods are often made movable, which greatly facilitates the search for the right things.
Advice from MirSovetov: when ordering a closet for a hallway, order two sections for outerwear - one of them will contain things that you wear all the time, and the other will be used as storage for clothes for other seasons. Naturally, the sections do not have to be equal in volume, but on the contrary, it all depends on the number of things in your wardrobe.
If you need a wardrobe for a bedroom, you will need shelves for storing linen and other clothes. By the way, for better ventilation bed linen manufacturers of wardrobes offer to install not shelves, but baskets made of thin metal mesh. Baskets have two advantages at once: you can see the entire stack of laundry at once and you can easily take what you need without stirring up the entire stack. Secondly, the linen is constantly ventilated and will always be fresh.

A few words about shelves

It is convenient when there are a lot of shelves in the closet. However, do not make the shelves too close to each other. The optimal distance between the shelves is 30 cm - so it will be convenient for you to fold and take out clothes. If the wardrobe is designed for books, 23-25 ​​cm between the shelves is enough. But after all, books of a large, non-standard format are often found, so provide for them the top or lowest shelf, the distance to which will be at least 30 cm.
If the closet is large, up to the ceiling, its upper shelves will be used as mezzanines for storing things that are rarely used. Such shelves often carry a very large weight, and in order for them to withstand such a load, they are usually not made long. Make sure that the shelves in your closet do not exceed 1 meter in length. In other words, in huge built-in wardrobes, the top shelf must be supported every meter.
And one more thing: in every large closet there should be. Neat lamps built into the top wall of the cabinet will make it much easier to find the right things in the cabinet.

wardrobe doors

When ordering a wardrobe, you need to decide in advance what material the doors will be made of. They can be made from laminated chipboard, then the wardrobe will be just an elegant addition to the interior. And you can order glass or mirror doors. Of course, they are more fragile (by the way, and the most expensive), but very beautiful. Yes, transparent glass doors most often installed in home libraries to be able to see the books on the shelves. Mirrored doors, especially if they are installed in wall-to-wall built-in wardrobes, visually increase the size of the room. The plastic facade of the wardrobe is good for rooms made in modern style. The colors and texture of plastic are so diverse that you will surely pick up exactly what you want.

When ordering wardrobe...

So, we have found out the main features of wardrobes, now you need to find a company that will make your wardrobe ...
Arriving at the office of the wardrobe manufacturer, first of all, ask what the edge of the chipboard parts is made in their products. If you are told that they cover the details of their cabinets with a patch or mortise edge, alas, this option is not for you. Laid on and mortise edge - a sign of handicraft production. It quickly exfoliates and greatly reduces the life of the cabinet. A reputable company will produce PVC edgebands with a thickness of 0.4 mm to 3 mm. Sliding wardrobes with PVC edge much more expensive, but they will serve you faithfully for many years.
Next, find out how thick the chipboard will be on the door and cabinet walls. For good doors chipboard 8-10 mm thick is required. But in Russia this is not produced, so in the "left" firms they take domestic chipboard 16 mm thick and grind grooves into which rollers are attached, adapted for a thin 8 mm plate. Thus, the door turns out to be twice as heavy as it should be. Because of excess weight door rollers will wear out catastrophically quickly.
Now the cabinet walls. If you expect to buy a sliding wardrobe made of high-quality imported chipboard, then the thickness of its walls should be 18 mm. It makes sense to arm yourself with a caliper and measure the thickness of the chipboard. If “suddenly” it turned out that the walls of the cabinet were only 16 mm thick, you were deceived, instead of imported chipboard, they installed domestic ones. Our chipboard is no worse than Western counterparts, the difference is only in price.

MirSovetov recommends that you do not save on the purchase of a sliding wardrobe. A cheap wardrobe will “revenge” you a hundredfold, acting on your nerves with a rattle when opening doors, jumping off the “rails” and a quick loss of appearance. Contact reputable companies, choose quality materials. And our advice will not let anyone deceive you!

The sliding wardrobe is convenient, as the doors in the open state do not take up much space. It can generally be made unframed - in a niche, from wall to wall. All that is needed in this case is to install doors for the wardrobe, and then assemble the filling (or vice versa, this is not so important.

If we talk about strict restrictions on the size of doors for a wardrobe, then there are none. You can make any length and width. But there are recommended parameters based on operating experience:

Sash design

The door leaf of the sliding wardrobe consists of profiles:

All this together looks like in the photo. In this frame, in the grooves, your chosen material for the doors is inserted. It can be glass, mirror, and other materials.

Dividing profiles are optional. They are needed if you assemble the sashes from different materials Or maybe you just like them better this way. The maximum thickness of the filling material is 10 mm, the minimum is 4 mm. Thinner ones - glass, plastic, mirror - are inserted through the sealing gasket.

In order for the sash to move, rollers are installed on it - at the top and bottom. The entire mass of the door falls on the lower rollers, and the upper rollers stabilize the vertical position of the leaf, preventing it from deviating.

The rollers are attached to the side profiles using special fasteners.

Guides for compartment doors

As you understand, the sash is not everything. Guides are needed along which these same doors will move. There are two of them - upper and lower. In appearance, they differ significantly.

When installing the doors, they are first tightly inserted into the upper guide, the sash is raised to the stop and the lower rollers are placed in the corresponding slot. The whole structure is shown in the following photo.

Size calculation

At self assembly sliding wardrobe doors have two options. The first is to measure the opening, think about how many doors you want to have and contact a door manufacturing company with this information. Just make sure they sell parts without assembly fees. The manager will take care of everything for you. necessary materials, will give out the dimensions and announce the amount. Everything is simple. But you will have to buy everything in this office, i.e. choose from what is available.

sashes

Calculate the width of the leaves so that only one handle is visible in the closed state, but at the same time it should not cover the door leaf itself. For a sliding door of two wings, consider this: measure the width of the opening, add the width of the profile and divide in half. This will be the width of the sash.

For example, the opening is 1600 mm, the width of the handle profile is 26 mm. We get 1600 mm + 23 mm / 2 = 811.5 mm. Please note that the width of the handle profile is taken arbitrarily. It can be different in shape and, of course, in width. When calculating, substitute the width of the design you have chosen.

To calculate the tricuspid, you will need to add twice the width of the profile and divide by 3.

Example: opening 2100 mm, handle width is the same - 26 mm. We consider: 2100 mm + 2 * 26 mm / 3 = 717 mm.

Everything is easier with height. 40-45 mm are subtracted from the height of the cabinet and the required sash height is obtained, as well as the length of the side profiles. With the size of the valves all.

filling

Since the filling is in a frame of profiles, we subtract twice the width of the profile from the total width of the sash. We do the same with the height - subtract the height of the lower and upper profile.

So, the width of our sash is 811.5 mm. The measured width of the handle profile is 18 mm. Since the handles are placed on both sides, we double this figure. We get 36 mm. Total filling width 811.5 mm - 36 mm = 775.5 mm.

We also consider the height: let the original be 2350 mm, the width of the upper profile is 12 mm, the lower profile is 48 mm. Total filling height 2350 mm - 12 mm - 48 mm = 2290 mm. This is if the filling is solid and it is chipboard that does not require a silicone sealant. If the sash is a solid mirror or glass, the thickness of the sealing gum must be subtracted from the found height. It is 1 mm, but since it is worn around the perimeter, it takes 2 mm in general - above and below. In this case, the filling height is 2290 mm - 2 mm = 2288 mm.

If the sash filling consists of fragments, the thickness of the connecting profile is also subtracted. It is also about 1 mm.

Profiles

The height of the vertical frame profiles is equal to the overall height of the sash. The width of all horizontal ones is calculated depending on the width of the handle: we subtract twice the width of the handle from the width of the sash (there are two of them).

Let the width of the handle be 26 mm. We get the width of the vertical profiles: 811.5 mm - 26 mm * 2 = 759.2 mm.

Assembly photo report

First, all profiles are cut exactly according to the calculated dimensions. The accuracy must be perfect. The cut is strictly perpendicular, at 90 °. Holes are drilled in the handle profiles for the installation of rollers and fasteners.

Holes are made through two diameters. The exact size depends on the dimensions of the purchased fasteners, but basically there are two sizes: 4 mm and 6 mm, as well as 6 mm and 10 mm.

At the top, one such hole is made, the center of which is at a distance of 7 mm from the edge of the profile, at the bottom of the holes there are two - the first at a distance of 7 mm from the edge, the second - departing from the cut of the profile 42 mm.

When assembling, first of all, all parts of the filling are assembled. First, if there is glass or a mirror, sealing rubber is installed around the perimeter. It is simply put on the end of the part by pressing a finger. At the edges, the sealant is cut off, put on end-to-end, but without overlap on the next side.

A protective film is glued to the rear of the mirrors. You can use regular stickers. This film will not allow the fragments to crumble if the mirror breaks.

If the sash is composite, we assemble it using connecting profiles. The filling parts are simply inserted with force into the profile. Sometimes considerable effort may be required. You can tap on the butt with the back of your hand or use a rubber mallet for this.

Simply insert the filling parts into the grooves of the profile and tap on the end

When the sash is assembled, according to the same principle, the corresponding profiles are installed at the top and bottom.

Then it's time to install the side handle profiles. Everything is the same: drive the filling into the groove, make sure that it goes all the way along the entire length without distortions. When the frame is assembled, it is necessary to tighten it with fasteners. We start from the top. Take fasteners, insert into the previously drilled hole. If the distance was measured accurately, the screw falls into the groove of the upper cross member.

Tighten the connection with a hex wrench. Slightly not screwing up to the stop, we insert the upper rollers between the screw head and the profile jumper, then we tighten the screw.

We repeat the same operation on the other side. Then we go down. Here the fastener is installed in the upper hole. We just tighten it up. Repeat the same on the other side.

Installation of the lower roller - we start the plate in profile

We press the spring, tucking the roller body inward. We insert the screw into the hole, trying to get into the socket, tighten it with a hexagon. It may need a different size - slightly smaller than the others - as this screw is usually thinner and longer.

You don't need to tighten it all the way. So that it goes into the plate half a centimeter or so. Then, when installing the door and adjusting its stroke, this screw adjusts the position of the sash - the corner rises or falls.

If you press the roller wheel, it will go into the body, then return due to the elasticity of the spring. This simple mechanism ensures the smooth running of the wardrobe door.

Having collected all the wings, we proceed to the installation of guides. They should be located strictly one under the other, even without deviations of a millimeter. Use a plumb line or laser level ().

First, screw the top guide. It is attached either to the ceiling or to the top of the cabinet. The distance from the shelves is at least 100 mm, otherwise the doors will touch the shelves, things, hangers.

We insert spring-breakers into the grooves from the sides into the lower guide. They will limit the movement of the door. The number of springs is equal to the number of wings, they are installed at both ends.

If there is no laser level, so as not to suffer with plumb lines, for starters, you can simply lay the lower guide until it is fixed. Then install one blade, bringing its upper rollers to the top, and setting the lower ones in the desired groove. Thus, the doors will connect the upper and lower rails.

By setting the canvas strictly vertically, you will automatically set the lower guide. It remains only to screw it on. Just be careful not to move the doors.

The last thing that remains to be done is to glue the shlegel on the sides. This is a fleecy self-adhesive strip that softens the impact of the sash on the walls of the cabinet (or just on the walls if the cabinet is unframed).

The final touch - Schlegel sticker

On this wardrobe doors are installed and ready to go. You can watch the process again in the video.

In order to save money, some people start making furniture themselves. For example, if you purchase material and accessories, you can get an inexpensive wardrobe with sliding doors. Today, such products are in great demand, because they save living space, easy to use, decorate the interior (applies to models with original and interesting view). The following describes how to prepare and mount wardrobe doors with your own hands, as well as decorate them in an unusual way.

Varieties

Before proceeding with production work, it is necessary to figure out what designs generally exist. Compartment doors are equipped with a suspension system, overhead or frame profile. Hanging products are considered the cheapest, because they consist of a chipboard sheet and a facing edge. On its inner side, there are rollers at the top, and guide elements at the bottom. Such a system is difficult to regulate, quickly fails, and the canvas is prone to bending.

Overhead profiles hold chipboard better, since they are located on the sides. If such doors are needed, then the lower rollers equipped with bearings will act as a support. There are also rollers in the upper part, but they perform the function of support. If there is an obstacle in the way of the doors, they can warp and jump out of the grooves.

The frame profile is a structure of horizontal and vertical elements. They are made of steel (aluminum) and make the product more durable and reliable. The rollers on the doors move not only to the sides, but also vertically. Glass or a mirror is easily inserted into the canvas.

Sizing

In order for the furniture to look neat, it is necessary to correctly execute the wardrobe. With their own hands they are made 500-1000 mm wide. A door that is too small will collapse, and a door that is too large will be difficult to operate. The height of the structure depends on the type of profiles. For example, overlays have a length of 5500 mm, so they can be adjusted in height.

When calculating the width of the doors, the overlap must be taken into account. Therefore, the width of the profile is added to the measurement of the opening, and the total amount is divided by two (the number of canvases). If there are more doors, then the number of profiles will also increase.

The height of compartment doors is calculated much easier: you need to measure the opening in height and subtract 45 mm from it. This distance allows you to bring the canvas into the upper profile. Do not subtract less than 45 mm, otherwise the doors will be tight.

Material

How to make do-it-yourself wardrobe doors and what material to use for this? His choice depends on the financial abilities and design preferences of the consumer. Most often, chipboard, glass, mirrors, plastic, etc. are taken into account. Chipboard doors imitate natural material, make the interior homely, warm and interesting. They are used in the manufacture budget cabinets because they are of low cost.

Glass designs can be: frosted, patterned, colored or embossed. They are pasted over with a special film, which, upon impact, will not allow the material to break into small fragments. Mirrored doors also look very elegant. They can be tinted, covered with an anti-reflective film, equipped with built-in lamps, drawings and patterns.

Quite often there are doors made of acrylic plastic - a very durable material. Its color palette is diverse, which allows you to create an individual design. You can get a unique interior if you combine this design with decoration and other interior details.

Fasteners and guides

You can install the wardrobe doors with your own hands if you purchase the necessary ones (rollers, self-tapping screws, adjusting screws, guides, etc.). Their main weight falls on the bottom, so there should be large rollers. The top rollers are small size, since they are only needed to support the structure and move along the guide profile. You will also need adjusting screws with fine threads, which are responsible for tilting the doors. The main fasteners are self-tapping screws that connect the elements into a single product.

Horizontal guides are responsible for the movement of doors inside the cabinet. Upper profile - a horizontal part at the top of the door frame, which has a filling in the form of chipboard or a mirror. A special groove runs along it for screwing in self-tapping screws. With the help of the lower guide element, the vertical profile is fixed, the carrier rollers are hidden, and the appearance is improved.

It will not be possible to make sliding doors for a sliding wardrobe with your own hands without a vertical handle profile. It has a groove into which the filling is inserted. This element makes the product attractive, because it looks very elegant.

Door assembly

After taking measurements, choosing materials and fittings, they begin to assemble the doors. First, prepare the filler. They lay it exactly along the perimeter. Then it is applied to the base material and attached to it from above and below with horizontal strips. It is very important that the mirror goes into all the grooves, and the seal is not visible.

In the manufacture of the wardrobe door with their own hands, they also arrange the side racks. To do this, the design is placed on the edge and put on a mirror. Profile elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, for which pre-prepared holes are required. After that, rollers are installed at the top and bottom, and a tape with a pile is glued to the vertical profiles. If necessary, the design is equipped with handles (screwed with screws or inserted into a cut hole).

Preparatory work

Before performing the preparation of the opening. To begin with, the horizontality and evenness of the guides are checked. The whole structure must have a strict geometry, however, small errors are hidden in the process of adjusting the doors. You can also level the cabinet using the leveling feet (especially if the floor is uneven).

If you have to mount it, you will have to prepare an opening. To begin with, measure its width again and cut out two linings from chipboard. Their size must match the width of the opening (maximum accuracy will be required). With the help of a drill, several holes are made in them. The lining is applied to the ceiling, leveled and pulled with screws so that they are imprinted. Holes are drilled in the marked places and dowels are hammered. The parts cut out of chipboard are screwed with screws. The bottom lining is mounted in the same way as the top one. It is very important that it is perfectly even.

Installation work

Do-it-yourself installation of doors in a sliding wardrobe begins with laying guides. First, they take the upper element, measure the desired length and cut off the excess with a jigsaw. The same is done with the bottom guide element. Using a drill, drill holes necessary for fastening to cabinet parts or linings. Guides are applied, aligned and secured with screws.

Once everything is finished, you can proceed to the installation of doors. The first web is inserted into the guides, the system is checked for performance and adjustment is performed. Properly adjusted doors will allow mechanisms to operate quickly and easily. After that, a second canvas is installed, checked and adjusted. Sometimes they install three-leaf sliding doors for the wardrobe with their own hands. Then the mounted sashes are moved aside and the third canvas is mounted. All the same manipulations are carried out with it as with the previous elements.

decoration

At any time, you can remove the doors and decorate them with various materials. In this case, you can choose: mirrors, patterned glass, leather and fur, various films.

1. A mirror is often inserted into the doors of wardrobes, especially if the furniture is located in the hallway. For interior design, silver and bronze products are best suited.

2. Patterned or ordinary glass covered with a decorative film looks great on furniture designs. Individuality to the room will give the material made to order.

3. Photo printing looks very nice and allows you to create absolutely any image. In this case, the picture is applied either immediately to the surface, or to a film pasted under the glass.

4. using leather and fur. In great demand today decorative panels imitating the skin and fur of animals. If desired, various patterns and patterns are applied to them.

5. Special films allow you to quickly and cheaply decorate the product. A variety of colors and textures will help to combine furniture with any style of interior.

The sliding wardrobe is popular with consumers due to its spaciousness, space saving and attractive appearance. It will cost less if you figure out how to assemble wardrobe doors with your own hands. And if the apartment has a spacious niche, then you can protect it and get an excellent dressing room.

Housing furnishing is the final step that combines all the repair and design stages. V modern furniture several must be combined essential qualities: operational functionality, appearance as such, compliance with the general design idea.

Coupe systems or their elements are present in almost every home. The convenience and functionality of this furniture are indisputable, and for such design styles, like minimalism, urban, hi-tech and completely irreplaceable. The article provides comprehensive recommendations for the independent manufacture of a sliding wardrobe.

Advantages

Having considered the pros and cons of this class of furniture, we will get a complete picture of modern concept closet with compartment door opening system.

Advantages
Ergonomics	Standard designs require blind areas for opening. In coupe systems, doors move in the same plane along the guides when opening and closing. Significantly saves floor space.
capacity	The ability to arbitrarily configure the internal space (filling), which determines the spaciousness. The only requirement is ergonomic expediency.
Versatility	Fits into any interior. Various ways decorations and finishes allow you to install the wardrobe in the bedroom, kitchen, living room, etc.
Functionality	Inside, unlike conventional cabinets, you can store dimensional items, household appliances. Embed various devices- ironing board, workbench, countertop, etc.
Ideal solution for narrow spaces	For narrow aisles and corridors, a closet is often the only solution. Only it can be put in such places and comfortably operated.
Zoning	Double functional purpose. Using such furniture, you can easily zone the room, that is, it can also perform the function of a partition.
Variety of designs	No restrictions for internal filling. A large number of materials for the manufacture of facades, which allows you to realize any design idea.
Using a mirror	A mirror can be installed on the facade. This will improve the functionality of the room and visually expand the space.
Operational reliability	Doors that move along rails will last much longer than those that open on hinges.

The disadvantages are much less, but they are:

Flaws
Failure of the sliding system	Occurs only in the case of the acquisition of a low-quality sliding system.
The need for additional lighting	If the dimensions are large, additional light will be required, it significantly increases operational comfort.
The need to clean the guides	Over time, the lower guides become clogged, which can become an obstacle to the movement of the roller. Therefore, sometimes you have to clean the grooves of the guides.
Mirror gets dirty quickly	If a mirror is used in the decoration, then it will often have to be washed from stains and traces of hands.
No swap option	When designing, the dimensions are related to the specific location of the cabinet. Not suitable for fans of frequent permutations.

Varieties in form

There are several varieties, they have structural and external differences:

• built-in;
• stand-alone;
• corner;
• diagonal corners.

Let's consider each of them separately.

built-in

When constructing such a cabinet, there is no top, back wall and base. Partitions are made only. The entire structure is screwed directly to the ceiling, walls and floor. Metal corners are used as fixation.

This fixed structure, and it is an invariable part of the created interior.

Standing separately

It has sidewalls, top, bottom, back and sliding doors. This is a complete piece of furniture. It can be moved, it is not attached to any design elements.

Angular

An excellent solution for small apartments, where every meter is expensive. Repeats the shape of the corner and allows you to rationally use the space of the room.

diagonal corner

This is a kind of corner, but the facade does not repeat the shape of the corner, but is made diagonal. The increased capacity of this design determines its frequent use as a dressing room.

Material used

Furniture with a sliding door system is made from a variety of materials. The table shows the main ones:

Material
	The most common and frequently used. Chipboard board, having low price, has sufficient strength. A huge selection of textures, colors, patterns allows you to make a front part for any design solutions. There is one, but significant, drawback - it is difficult to fine workmanship. For this reason, mostly simple structures are made from chipboard or chipboard.
	Eco-friendly material, easy to process. The variety of facade coatings is no less than that of chipboard. Practical and affordable material.
	Expensive option but natural wood will last a long time. A great decoration for any interior.

Types by design

Classification by design differences is as follows:

1. embedded;
2. case.

Embedded . There is no need for top, bottom and side parts. Their function is performed by the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche. Drywall can be used for manufacturing, which will reduce the overall cost of the product.

Cabinet . The main difference from a conventional cabinet is the method of opening the doors. If necessary, you can move. Transportation (moving) without disassembly is possible. Minus - increased consumption of materials, as side, lower and upper walls, the back are made.

Now let's take a closer look at the organization of the internal volume of the cabinet.

Design features

When designing, ergonomic and operational specifics should be taken into account.

Consider the main structural elements sliding wardrobe.

Door width

The choice of door size depends on factors:

• manufacturers of sliding systems are limited to certain sizes. Some systems allow you to make a sash up to 120 cm wide;
• the width is affected by the number of internal sections. Each section must be freely accessible;
• choice is influenced by personal preference. There are no special rules, unless it goes beyond the restrictions listed above.

The optimal width, worked out in practice, is from 600 to 900 mm. This size provides the most comfortable conditions use.

Sliding systems

Sliding systems are classified according to two main criteria:

1. profile material;
2. expansion principle.

For the manufacture of the profile of the movable system, aluminum or steel is used. The material of the sliding system is chosen, as a rule, the same as that used for the door frame. Steel structures are cheaper, but in most cases aluminum is preferred.

Structurally, two types of systems are produced - bottom-support and top-hung. In the lower support - the door with rollers moves along the rail. In top-hung - its rollers move along the upper guides.

Height

The height is chosen arbitrary. The only limitation may be the ceilings or the small stature of the owners of the apartment / house. Designs are made both from ceiling to floor, and smaller heights.

The standard length of wall material used is 270 cm. Standard apartment has a ceiling height of 260–270 cm. Almost identical dimensions allow you not to saw or build up structural elements.

For ceilings above 270mm (if you want a floor-to-ceiling cabinet), there are two solutions. First, the sheets of material are joined to the required length. The second - the mezzanine is going. Sheets can be joined on high-precision equipment of companies specializing in such services.

Shelf depth

The depth of the shelves determines the daily usability of the cabinet. The optimal and recommended indicator is 60–70 cm. Usually a hanger bar is placed in the closet, the width of which is about 48 cm. A depth of 60 cm will completely eliminate contact inner surface doors and clothes hung on hangers. Most furniture accessories (boxes, trays, etc.) have a width of 50 cm. You should not make shelves deeper, since it will be inconvenient to get "under the wall" when placing things.

Not always the dimensions of the premises allow you to install furniture with the maximum recommended depth of the shelves. But there are limitations on the minimum depth. The best option may be a depth of 40 cm. Considering that 10 cm goes under the mechanism sliding doors, small hangers 30 cm wide can be purchased. Alternatively, mounting a hanging bar (s) perpendicular to the doors and the back wall, in this case, the width of the placed hangers is not limited.

Such a solution is much better than completely refusing to install a cabinet, especially since even such a "narrow" design for small apartments is the perfect solution.

Length

When designing, the length of the cabinet is selected in accordance with the place of its further installation.

Height of shelves and rods

The height between the shelves is 250–350 mm. The choice rule is simple: more depth of shelves - more distance between them, less depth - less distance. This dependence is associated with the convenience of access to the stacks of linen located in the depth of the shelf (near the back wall).

When designing a mezzanine, you should take into account the dimensions of things that are supposed to be stored on it. If these are suitcases, then the height of the mezzanine should be equal to the height of the suitcase, plus a small margin.

The mounting height of the hanger bar is determined by the length of the clothes placed on it. The maximum height will be equal to the longest thing. Average length of typical wardrobe items:

• shirts - up to 100 cm;
• jackets - up to 110 cm;
• long clothes - up to 130 cm;
• raincoats and fur coats - up to 150 cm.

These calculations are approximate, since the length of clothing depends on height, style and other parameters.

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Schemes and drawings

The diagrams show various options furniture assembly projects and technologies:

Device inside

When designing the filling of a sliding wardrobe, first of all, zoning of the internal space is done. The figure shows a universal scheme for dividing various things into storage zones:

When buying a finished product, you will have to agree with the filling configuration proposed by the manufacturer. Self-manufacturing will allow you to take into account the dimensions, functionality, location of various zones and much more, which, ultimately, will provide maximum operational comfort.

Below is a table with examples of frequently used elements of internal filling and zoning of a sliding wardrobe with their help.

Zoning
	Shelves are one of the main elements of filling. They can be fixed and retractable, solid and ventilated, half and full depth, etc.
	Drawers - the second most important element of the cabinet.
	Hanging bar - necessary for clothes on hangers. The material of manufacture is different, most often metal.
	Convenient storage baskets. All things are clearly visible in them, which creates a certain convenience.
	This device is called - bruchnik. Pants are always ironed and ready to wear.
	Rod (hanger) for storing ties - it is convenient to choose, do not wrinkle, the correct suspension prevents shape change.
	Convenient placement of belts, as an alternative - storage on a shelf in rolls.
	Compact and convenient storage of underwear.
	Placement of bed linen, towels, some clothes in piles on shelves.
	For storing blouses, light blazers, short sundresses, a significant part of the internal volume is allocated. A pipe with hangers is installed in the opening. You can make several of these departments - for short and long things.
	Section for accessories - bracelets, watches, glasses, etc. It is recommended to store these items in drawers. Inside the space can be divided into separate cells.
	Shelves for storing shoes. In the upper (mezzanine) part, you can place shoes in boxes.
	Hooks, hangers, carabiners, rings and other accessories for bags.
Hiking suitcases	Rarely used (once a year during the holidays) suitcases place on the far (upper) shelves or mezzanine.
	One of the options for bed linen. Shelf width up to 80 cm, height - up to 60 cm.

Characteristics of the main filling elements:

• sliding and fixed shelves. For convenient use, the distance between them is from 350 to 450 mm;
• drawers. Two types - fully retractable (100%), partially retractable (80%). Can be equipped with closers that provide smooth semi-automatic closing of the drawer;
• mezzanines, known as hard-to-reach shelves. Located at the top. They store rarely used and overall things;
• bars are needed for hangers. Mounted across the width of the cabinet;
• pantographs or special "furniture lifts". Thanks to them, clothes are stored at the required level and can be easily pulled out with a special bar. They are electrical or mechanical;
• baskets are convenient for storing small items. Equipped with rollers and guides.

facades

Thought out to the smallest detail, the internal content will be sharply dissonant with unsuccessfully chosen facades. It is the facades that give the whole cabinet a special finished look. Consider several options for their implementation.

Mirrored

The mirror visually enlarges the space and makes the room brighter. It can be whole or divided into several parts. Big weight mirrors determines the need to select high-quality and reliable rollers. Such a facade creates additional maintenance chores - the mirror quickly gets dirty. It will have to be wiped and washed regularly, especially if there are small children in the family.

A variety of finishes are used for facade mirrors - sandblasting patterns and drawings, spraying of various shades (silver, emerald, gold, etc.) for glass, printing color images and much more. For safety reasons, the mirror inside covered with anti-shock (armor-) film. If the mirror breaks, the pieces will not scatter.

glass

Glass is no less popular than a mirror, facades are equipped with unbreakable. Mostly used frosted glass with a pattern. Vertical, horizontal stripes look original, dividing the canvas into separate squares.

MDF and chipboard

These materials are laminated with film. The facades look massive and heavy. To install them, you will need reliable roller systems. One of the advantages is a huge selection of colors, shades and patterns, in texture - from matte to bright glossy.

On MDF and chipboard facades, you can apply photo printing.

These are the main types of facades used in the manufacture of sliding wardrobes. You can combine them with each other. This article contains photographs with a considerable number of original ideas for the production of facades.

Step by step instructions for making

Adhesive edge tape

After cutting all the elements, the edge tape is glued to the ends of the plate. The sequence of operations performed:

Instructions for gluing the edge to the end of the blanks
	If there is no assistant, you can use a simple trick. You will need a small box and a quick clamp. The clamp presses the board to the box, ensuring the stability of the workpiece and the convenience of gluing the edge tape.
	One side of the edge tape has an adhesive surface. Heating to a high temperature, it is easy to stick to the workpiece.
	Cut the edge to the desired length. Leave a margin of 1 cm around the edges. You can cut off after gluing with ordinary scissors.
	For sticking position temperature sensor set the iron to "2".
	For your safety, wear left hand two gloves. There should be no pellets on the palm.
	Run the iron along the edge tape, and hold it with your left hand (leveling).
	We carry out the iron in the opposite direction, at the same time with a hand in a glove we firmly press (smooth out) the edge tape.
	Hand smooth the edge a few more times.
	The use of a special roller. Glue the edge tape with an iron and then roll it with a roller. Very comfortably.
	The cooled tape, with a sharp knife from the end, carefully cut off the remnants.
	We get such a cut.
	We repeat the procedure for all ends of the workpiece. We measure the tape with a margin of 1 centimeter, from each edge.
	Glue with an iron and smooth.
	We cut off the cooled edge. The edge has already been glued on the adjacent edge, we make the cut very carefully.
	From all sides we cut off the longitudinal remnants of the protruding edge.
	Result. We glue edging tape the ends of the remaining blanks.
	All cuts are ground with a special bar. Inner part it is filled with foam rubber, outside - fine-grained abrasive.
	Grinding of slices is done only with longitudinal movements.

Processing of the main elements is carried out in a similar way.

Assembly

Details are cut according to the project. This operation is best done in the workshop on a special format machine. After cutting and gluing the edges, we assemble the cabinet:

Frame Assembly Instructions
	To work, you will need to assemble an additional device, consisting of a metal strip and two pieces of board connected at an angle. It turns out a corner with a metal guide. You will also need two quick clamps. With this device it is very convenient to connect workpieces at right angles.
	We make a check with a square - it should be 90˚.
	Set aside 70 mm from the top edge.
	In the example, a 16 mm plate is used, therefore, 9 mm must be retreated from the edge. Why not 8 mm? Because the plate protrudes 1 mm beyond the edge, forming a small ledge. The middle of the end of the adjoining plate is at a distance of 9 mm.
	Drill mark.
	A similar mark is placed below.
	Using a drill, we make holes for fasteners.
	A special drill replaces three at once. It allows you to make the main hole, corbel and chamfer in one operation.
	drilling.
	We twist the confirmation with a screwdriver.
	Having fixed the sidewall, according to the project, we mark the places for installing the shelves.
	Next, using a square, put marks on both sides under the holes for attaching the shelves.
	Marks on which holes for confirmations will be drilled.
	The device assembled at the beginning of work is convenient to use for attaching shelves. We measure with a tape measure 1/2 the thickness of the plate. The thickness of the plate is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the mark.
	At this level, we install the shelf using quick-clamp clamps.
	It is clearly seen here that the mark is in the middle of the end face of the workpiece. Everything is ready for drilling.
	Drilling.
	We twist the confirmations.
	Install the remaining shelves in the same way.
	Install the crossbar. And we fasten each shelf with confirmations.
	Having fixed the crossbar quick clamp, we twist it with confirmations from above and below, after we fix each shelf.
	This is how the lower part of the closet is assembled. We clamp the strip from the plate with a clamp and fix it from the end with a confirmation.
	We drill shallow holes from below for installing furniture legs.
	We twist the metal sleeve with external and internal threads.
	Using a hexagon, tighten (retract) to the desired position.
	We twist the leg with a plastic support into the sleeve. Thanks to this, the furniture can be moved and leveled.
	Two parts of the support leg assembly.
	After assembling the cabinet, a fiberboard sheet is attached to its back side with ordinary carnations.
	Fastening fiberboard start from the top. By tilting the cabinet from side to side, we achieve a 90˚ angle between the sidewall and the top bar. We nail the side and bottom sides of the fiberboard sheet.
	When assembling, such plastic furniture corners were not used. Why? The use of confirmat is much more practical, since it is screwed into the slab by several centimeters and securely connects the structure, giving it additional rigidity.
	We close the hats of confirmations with a decorative cap.

In the same operating sequence, you can assemble a sliding wardrobe of any configuration.

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Door manufacturing

The door consists of a frame, metal guides and a system of rollers. It is worth ordering it from a company professionally dealing with such systems. Specialized software according to the given dimensions, it will calculate all the elements and issue a complete specification for the assembly. Mirrors or slabs of other materials are cut to the size of the doors for mounting in frames.

Elements for sliding system
	Vertical bars/handles for the side parts of the door.
	Sealing rubber for a mirror.
	Self-adhesive brush to soften the impact of doors when they are opened / closed.
	Staples for fixing doors in extreme positions.

The main parts for assembling the doors are made of aluminium. All metal components must be covered protective film to protect them from scratches during transit.

Sliding system assembly

Consider step by step assembly door leaf. In our example, there will be two mirror doors.

Finished closet

Door Assembly Instructions
	The door is located in a horizontal position and provides free access from all sides.
	In the upper part of the vertical rack, which also serves as a door handle, we drill two mounting holes.
	The lower one is 6.5 mm in diameter.
	Top hole - 10 mm. Through it, the upper profile of the doors and the roller will be attached.
	The lower part of the same vertical profile. Top hole - 10 mm, bottom - 6.5 mm. Distance from the edge of the first hole - 7 mm, the second - 43 mm. Closer to the edge, the lower roller will be attached. The second hole is for the screw connecting to the profile.
Profile mounting	From above we fix the rubber seal with a profile, carefully inserting it.
	The procedure is performed sequentially on all faces. We do not cut off the rubber seal at the corner, but continuously lay it around the entire perimeter.
Should not be screwed all the way	This screw is not fully tightened. Later, the upper rollers will be installed in it.
	Install the upper rollers and tighten the screw until it stops.
	Rubber seal installed at the bottom of the door.
The screw with the top roller is also twisted	In the upper part we fix the second pair of rollers.
	Install the bottom roller. We press the spring on the roller and carefully insert it into the hole, fix it with a screw.
	The screw is tightened with a hexagon.	Wardrobe with the first door installed.
	In the same sequence, we assemble and mount the second door.

Additionally, we install auxiliary elements - a pipe for hangers, etc.

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At the end it should look like this

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the diagrams and drawings. They will help you create your own project.

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Photo

This is mainly because not everything can be bought in a particular region or there are requirements for a minimum lot. Usually than more city, the more choice.

So, let's move on to considering the design and materials from which our closet will be made.

What is the wardrobe body made of?

Sliding wardrobe body(picture 1) is made of laminated chipboard or chipboard. The body consists of two side walls, a roof, a bottom and a base plate.

The bottom of the sliding wardrobe rests on plastic legs, like kitchen cabinets. As a back wall (in diagram 7) is used HDF or otherwise fiberboard, material 3-4 mm thick.

The HDF color is usually matched to the color of the hull or made from a neutral white or cream color.

For the manufacture of the case, a plate with a thickness of mainly 18 mm, manufactured by Kronopol, Kronospan, Pfleiderer, Egger, is used. The decors of these manufacturers are widely represented on the local market. You can always choose and decide on the color of your wardrobe. The choice is huge.

For example, the following decors are presented in the Kronopol assortment, of course, we do not have all of them on the market, but already by the number you can pre-select the desired decor. All decors are divided into three groups: plain colors, decors imitating wood texture, fantasy colors, decors of exotic woods.

Plain decors chipboard Kronopol

Decors chipboard Kronopol imitating wood

Fantasy decors Chipboard Kronopol

The internal space of the sliding wardrobe is divided by vertical partitions (in diagram 3).

Shelves are made removable (in diagram 2) on Rafix screeds. The shelves on this connecting fittings will be rigid, they will not fall out of the closet, additionally ensure the rigidity of the closet.

The edges of the internal parts of the sliding wardrobe are faced with a polymer edge 0.45 mm thick. The edges of the outer parts (front edges of the side walls, roof and bottom) are lined with a 2 mm thick edge.

The body of the sliding wardrobe can optionally be supplemented with an ending with radius shelves made of chipboard or glass (in diagram 9). Shelves along the radius part are lined with an edge 2 mm thick.

What will be the drawers in your wardrobe

The drawers in the closet are made in the same way as the body, made of chipboard, the bottom is made of HDF. The facade of the box (in diagram 4) is made of chipboard. Structurally, the box will be made as in the photo below.

The handle on the drawer will be made mortise (in diagram 5) so as not to interfere with the opening of the compartment doors.

The box itself is pulled out on ball guides 45 mm high (in diagram 6), reliable, withstanding serious power loads.

Pipe for hangers in the closet

A pipe for hangers is an important detail in a sliding wardrobe (in diagram 8). For the hanger, a chrome-plated pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is used. The fastening of the pipe to the walls of the closet compartment is reliable, using consoles.

Sliding wardrobe doors

Sliding doors of our sliding wardrobe are made of aluminum profile. Basic profile colors: gold, champagne, aluminum, bronze. According to the geometry, there are two types of profile - closed and open.

Compartment door filling options

• Chipboard. But, here it is necessary to take into account the following point, that not all decors of chipboard with a thickness of 18 mm have analogues with a thickness of 10 mm, which can be used as filling compartment doors.
• Painted glass - lakobel.

• Lakomat glass white. Translucent white glass.

• Mirror. Silver, bronze, graphite mirror.

• Glass and mirror sandblasted.

• Glass with photo printing.

• The glass is tinted.

• Bamboo and rattan panels.

Rice. 15. An example of inserting a rattan into a sliding wardrobe