Clamp quick-clamping made of wood drawings. Do-it-yourself quick clamp

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A clamp is a tool that resembles a hand vise, which is used to securely fix or glue two elements together. For example, in carpentry, it is used to connect two planes during drying. adhesive solution. However, this tool is not always at hand, so you can independently resort to the manufacture of a quick-clamping structure. To properly make a clamp with your own hands from metal, you need to follow step-by-step instructions with photo and video master classes.

Design features

A clamp can quickly fail, which is why it is so important to know how to make a homemade tool. The components of this metal structure are the lever part, the frame, the jaws of the clamp and the moving part.

What are the advantages of clamping tools:

The clamp can also be made from wood, however metal structure more practical and reliable. Its manufacture does not require special knowledge and skills, you only need the use of welding equipment, a hacksaw and a burner. The whole process with step by step instructions shown in the video.

Models of clamping tools are divided into the following classes according to the operation of mechanisms and structural features:

Manufacturing technology

A do-it-yourself metal clamp is much more reliable and practical than a wooden structure. For the manufacture of home-made units, welding equipment and locksmith units will be required.

Tools for making clamps of any type

1 option

Following the instructions, you can make a homemade clamp from metal fittings.

Option 2

To make a corner clamping tool with our own hands, we will need the following materials: steel trimmings from the corner 40 * 40, 50 * 50 and 30 * 50 to 200 mm, 2 F-shaped clamps and a strip 10 * 50 to 250 mm long.

Let's get started:

Buying clamps in hardware stores is quite expensive. Everyone wants to get rid of extra costs if there are alternatives. You may need several such tools at once, this is especially true when assembling, manufacturing or repairing furniture. Homemade clamps will replace your hand vise, as it is possible to choose the model, type and size of the tool. Following the instructions in the photo and video, you can quickly figure out the manufacturing mechanism and quickly make a manual clamp from improvised materials.

A clamp is a clamping fixture that is used in working with wood and metal, paper and leather. In carpentry workshops, with the help of clamps, parts, boards and shields are glued together, with welding work ah clamp tight parts metal products. In office work, they are used when filing documents for archiving, and in auto repair shops they clamp parts of the mechanism when repair work. The shoemaker with its help glues the soles better.

A clamp is a necessary detail in household use. They can be used to attach a pencil sharpener to a desk or table lamp to the bedside table. Even when changing the battery in a good expensive watch, you will need the help of a clamp to tightly close the case back. After all, with high-quality tightness, it closes very tightly.

You can buy a ready-made clamp in a store, but usually several different products are required in production at once, and they are quite expensive, so most craftsmen begin to think about making a clamp with their own hands.

Types of clamps

Required for work different types such clamping devices. They are made of metal or durable wood. They come in different shapes: F and G-shaped, tape, edge, pipe, quick-clamp, screw, corner or mounting. But no matter how the clamps differ in their design and appearance, the purpose of all devices is the same: to firmly fix the products for further processing or connecting parts to each other.

Angle clamp made of metal

Having made such a design on your own, you can firmly connect not only wooden, but also metal parts to each other. Use these clamps for welding.

To work, you need a steel corner having a thickness of 4 mm and a size of 40 mm, plates of 50 mm, threaded studs, nuts, washers and rods, a welding machine, a drill.

At an angle of 90 degrees, you need to weld the plates to the corners. From each side, also attach by welding a worm structure, which is a small piece of a corner with a welded stop nut, into which a knob with a hole for a metal lever is screwed on top. On the opposite side, a thrust mechanism is assembled, consisting of two washers. The emphasis freely scrolls on a hairpin.

This angle clamp is secure fastening parts at a right angle, which can be used not only for welding, but also in a carpentry workshop when working with wood or plywood.

Simple model for gluing corners

To make such a clamp with your own hands, you will need four steel corners of the same size, a threaded stud, two wing nuts, a drill, and a welding machine.

Two corners are welded together at a right angle, getting an even square in cross section. The next step is to weld the threaded studs inserted into the drilled hole of the same diameter. Holes must also be drilled in the remaining corners. The ready clamp is easy to assemble. To do this, you just need to clamp the glued wooden parts with wing nuts.

If it is necessary to glue large planes, you can take steel corners of greater length and install additional studs also from the bottom of the clamp.

Homemade tape clamp

This type of clamp is often used to make picture or photograph frames. Such a clamp is a universal mobile mechanism with which you can glue the corners of frames of various sizes.

For the manufacture of such convenient fixture 6 mm plywood is required, wooden beam ok, thick plywood 10-15 mm, jigsaw, screwdriver, metal square, simple pencil, thick tape with a clip, bolts, washers, wing nuts.

The first step is to make a "table". To do this, we take a rectangular sheet of plywood and fasten two wooden bars on the screws on the bottom from two opposite sides. Next, you need to clearly measure and draw the diagonals along which cuts for the structure will be cut with a jigsaw.

The next step is to make four frame holders from thick plywood. First you need to cut 4 identical pieces of plywood rectangular shape, then using a metal triangle, draw identical right angles on one side and cut them out. You also need to make a slot for the bolt so that the clamp has mobility and can move left and right. To prevent the stretched tape from jumping off, you can cut a recess on the opposite side of the corner.

Clamp

This type clamping mechanism designed for work that does not require particularly strong and tight compression of parts, as it does not have a strong connecting effect. Such a clamp can temporarily and quickly fix the part, for example, when cutting. It works due to the eccentric located in the middle of one of the parts of the clamping device.

For manufacturing, you will need wooden bars or thick plywood, a metal plate, self-tapping screws, screws, bolts, a drill, a circular saw, sandpaper.

The first step is preparing wooden blocks. Their shape can be different, at the request of the master. It doesn't play big role. A cut is made in the back, about 6-7 cm. A metal plate is inserted into the fixed part of the clamp with a preliminary drilled holes and bolted securely. On the moving part, the fasteners do not pass through the plate, but are located along the edges. The bar should move up and down.

Further work continues on the moving part. On the saw, a longitudinal cut is made, leaving a thin strip at the bottom. It will act as a clamp and should move. The cut is also made for the eccentric, which is screwed to the top of the part.

The eccentric is easy to do. With a compass on paper, draw a semicircle, the ends of which are connected by an angle. It turns out the form of a drop. Transfer the dimensions to thin plywood and cut it out with a saw. In order for this part to fulfill its role and put pressure on the moving part of the bar, we shift the center of the semicircle by 1 cm and drill a hole, attaching it to the upper bar with a screw. When turning the eccentric, the part is tightly fixed and quickly clamped.

Table clamp

Very easy to use and easy to perform desktop clamp. A wooden beam, a piece of plywood, bolts, a drill, a threaded stud and a metal stick for the lever are taken. Two bars are bolted onto a sheet of plywood, which are motionless on the table. Then the clamping device itself is installed.

A hole is drilled in one of the bars, into which a threaded pin is inserted, securely screwed into a smaller bar at a right angle. A lever is inserted into the free end for convenience. Very fast and easy, even a beginner can handle it.

Simple wood clip

This G-shaped design is designed to hold two planes when gluing. Having made several copies, you can fix all the corners. To work, you will need a wooden beam, plywood, a threaded stud, a nut, screws.

Having twisted three identical pieces of a wooden beam, we firmly fix it with the help of two rectangular pieces of plywood. Next, drill a hole for the stud. To make it move well, you can drive a nut tightly into a wooden beam, along which the stud will spin freely. The handle can be made at your discretion either wooden, or by inserting a simple lever from a metal stick.

Lamp installation

With the help of clips, you can rearrange the table lamp to a place convenient for reading: on desk, bed, bedside table or hanging shelf. The lamp on the clamp is convenient to use, therefore it is popular.

Quick clamps such as clamps can be used in all areas of life and production. Making them with your own hands is not difficult, you just need to allocate a little time and have a desire. Successful work!

Novice woodworking enthusiasts will find our instructions with a sequentially described process for the manufacture of carpentry clamps of several varieties will be useful. In it, we will tell you what materials to use for this and how to make a device that is exactly suitable for your own needs.

Materials for body, stop and jaws

In carpentry, clamps are used to securely and carefully hold several parts together while they are mechanically connected or while the glue dries. The pressing force should not be colossal, it is much more important not to damage the surface of the parts to be joined. At the same time, the clamp must maintain high strength and be durable.

For the manufacture of clamp parts that are in direct contact with the workpiece, it is better to use hardwood. Ideally, these are bars and planks made of larch, beech, hornbeam or birch. Such a tree has a sufficiently high strength and at the same time is elastic, restoring its shape well. The hardness of such wood is usually higher than that of the processed parts, which can be compensated by heels made of leather, light rubber, felt or softer wood.

Both solid wood and rolled metal can be used as a frame for the clamp. Corners or profile pipes work well, but they need to be carefully cleaned, primed and painted so that there are no traces of rust on the finished product. To rule out accidental mechanical damage or punching through the parts to be joined, it is recommended to stick wooden planks over the metal elements of the clamp or stretch the loose silicone hose.

Which screw and flywheel to use

Despite the not very high pressing force, conventional studs with metric thread will not be very convenient for use as a clamp screw, except for a very small one. A small thread pitch will make it tedious to choose a free stroke, among other things, a triangular profile is “eaten up” much faster.

It would be much more correct to purchase studs with a trapezoidal or rectangular thread, otherwise called a jack thread. The optimal step is about 2-2.5 turns per centimeter, so a good smoothness of adjustment and an optimal tightening force for wooden parts are achieved.

Get studs, nuts and fittings desired type you can, either by contacting the turner directly, or in the hardware store, including on the Internet. There is, however, one BUT: most factory products have a full thread, while a slightly different screw configuration is optimal for a clamp. Ideally, if there are smooth pillars at the ends of the stud: about 20 mm long for the bearing fit (slightly thicker than the thread) and about 30-40 mm for the handle (slightly thinner or the same diameter).

The handle or flywheel can be made either from a block of wood, or by drilling a hole in the side of the stud and inserting a steel bar into it as a toggle lever, like in a vice.

Straight screw clamp

For the manufacture of the simplest clamp, you will need a frame in the form of a U-shaped bracket. It can be made in two ways. The first is to connect three bars at right angles on a tongue-and-groove joint, reinforcing it with glue and a pair of dowels. This option requires a fairly high qualification of the carpenter: hemming and fitting must be done with high accuracy, because the load in these nodes is very significant.

The second option is somewhat simpler, but more expensive in terms of material consumption. You can cut the bracket out of thick birch plywood by gluing 3-4 blanks 12-16 mm thick with Titebond wood glue.

When choosing the shape of the parts, keep in mind that the most reliable design will be with external slopes for greater rigidity. The stop of the bracket and its opposite part, in which the clamping screw will be fixed, must be trapezoidal. In this case, the inclined sides should diverge outward at an angle of about 30º more than a straight one. Thickening in the middle of the frame is also highly desirable.

To fix the screw, it is recommended to use nuts or nuts of the appropriate diameter, which are fixed in one of the “horns” of the clamp frame with inside and further strengthened epoxy resin. If the bracket was assembled from bars, then you need to insert a screw into one of them before final assembly. If the frame structure is multi-layered, then the bushings can be replaced with nuts, which are glued into the cut of the central plywood layer. Here it is important to follow the direction of the axis of the screw and at the same time not to allow glue to get into threaded connection- Lubricate it well with grease.

At the point where the clamping heel is attached to the screw, some kind of swivel is necessary so that the parts do not move when clamped. It is best to press a bearing, selected according to the diameter of the inner race, onto the whole edge of the screw stud. For a secure stop, clamp the pin into the drill chuck, and then cut a groove under the retaining ring with a triangular file and a hacksaw. Next, in the bar serving as a support heel, you need to make a cylindrical groove with a core drill and press the bearing with the pin into it, strengthening the fit with varnish or epoxy.

Adjustable universal clamp

Clamps with a variable opening width are more versatile in application, they are most often used when rallying furniture panels. To make such a clamp, you will need a calibrated rail made of dry hardwood, ideally beech or ash. A constant profile size is required along the entire length and the complete absence of any defects. The clamping force that the clamp can withstand directly depends on the thickness and width of the rail.

So, manufacturing should begin with fixing a perpendicular stop at one end of the longitudinal rail. It is better to make it from two bars that fold and clamp the rail in two symmetrical grooves, or fill it in the manner of a hammer. Thus, the workpiece for a clamp with a fixed stop acquires a T-shape, and the length of the stop on the working side must be greater than the overhang from reverse side no more than 3 times. The connection of the stop with the rail can be strengthened with furniture ties, it is also possible to connect on 2-3 dowels and PVA glue.

The reverse part of the stop is designed to secure the bowstring. A straight steel bar with a diameter of 10-12 mm is ideal for it. At the end of the bar, thread should be cut and spread between the end stops with nuts from the inside. Holes for the bowstring should be drilled as close as possible to the back edge of the stop. In this case, the indentation from the edge should be sufficient so that the wood does not split. After installing the bowstring, it is necessary to mark a series of notches on the end of the bar facing the clamped part, in increments of 15-20 mm, make cuts up to 2 mm deep with a hacksaw using this marking and cut the notches with a knife.

Next, you should make a movable clamp block. A through eyelet of rectangular section is made in it, the dimensions of which exactly correspond to the thickness and width of the longitudinal bar. Ideally, gouge a groove 2-3 mm smaller, and then bring it to the desired shape with a square rasp. The bar should sit snugly in the last, but at the same time allow relatively free movement along the clamp and its slope for locking on the notches. Under the bowstring, you also need to make a through hole so that the bar is located strictly perpendicular to the rail, and the block slides freely along it with a slight backlash.

On the reverse side of the hard stop, you need to fill another block, which will fasten the bar with the bowstring parallel to each other. To do this, you can use a small piece of the bar, in which a groove for the bar is made with a chisel and an incomplete hole for the bowstring is drilled. Dowels or bolts are used to fix the pads. As for the clamping screw and the heel, they are installed by analogy with a conventional clamp. It is enough to drill a through hole in the movable block not too close to the edge and paste a futorka or nut into it from the inside. So when the part is clamped, the nut of the screw mechanism will rest against the wood and sit even tighter.

Angle clamp

The most difficult to manufacture can be called a clamp, which ensures the fixation of two parts at a right angle. At the same time, it is the most useful and sought-after tool in the carpenter's workshop.

The basis for the corner clamp will be a piece of thick plywood. It is better to take a square plank of about 300x300 mm with a thickness of at least 14 mm. In the corner of the base, you need to fix two bars of hardwood, which for convenience we will call reference. These pads must converge at a right angle facing the center of the plywood board, the thickness of the bars is at least 25x25 mm. Their fastening should be as rigid as possible: it is recommended to first glue the bars, ensuring their perpendicularity with the help of a bench square, and then strengthen the connection with ties or bolts.

From the center of each block, you need to draw a perpendicular line, coaxial with which the screw studs will be located. It is necessary to retreat from the bars by a distance of 20-30 mm more than the maximum thickness of the parts to be tightened. After that, two more bars are rigidly attached to the base parallel to the previous ones. It is advisable to glue the nuts immediately, and then proceed with the stop bars in the same way as with the reference ones: first position them on the adhesive joint, and then strengthen them with ties. For greater convenience, you can immediately screw the screw studs into the nuts.

After fixing the thrust bars, it remains only to press on the bearings fixed in the movable blocks. The cross section, dimensions and material of the latter should be similar to the reference bars. Finally, you need to fill the handles or insert the toggle levers and cut off the excess base of the clamp, removing the protruding corners for free rotation by the screw handles

Individual clamps for specific operations

In any carpentry workshop, homemade clamps show themselves to be more adapted to local working conditions than purchased in a store. You can use a wide range of variations of the three designs described above.

For example, on one rail, you can fix not one, but two adjustable pads for positioning parts at a great distance. Such a tool will be very useful, for example, when assembling door blocks.

Instead of a handle, you can weld a regular hexagonal bolt cap onto the stud. This is true if, when assembling parts, several clamps need to be often clamped, released and rearranged. At the same time, it will be convenient to rotate the clamping screw using end head with a ratchet or even a screwdriver.

To assemble products of complex shape, you can make clamp stops and movable blocks of a more complex configuration, which are well suited for working with irregularly shaped parts.

Experienced furniture makers, carpenters, plumbers rightly believe that a clamp is no less important tool than a comfortable workbench, a well-balanced planer or a set of razor-sharp Swedish steel chisels. The device can be bought, rented, but it is best to make a clamp with your own hands. In this case, there will be confidence that a simple device will not let you down at the most crucial moment.

The essence of the clamp device

Structurally, a clamp is the simplest device that allows you to press a part, workpiece, several constituent parts in one piece for installing fasteners - self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts, rivets, or while the glue dries.

To the device of the clamp, regardless of the design, material and size of the fixture, two basic requirements are imposed:

• The frame of the clamp must not deform under load, the rigidity of the frame of the fixture must be sufficient to keep the clamping jaws parallel to the plane;
• The design of the clamping screw should provide adjustable and smooth pressing of the movable clamp support on the fixed surface.

There are a fairly large number of various clamp schemes, and although the device of any clamp is essentially primitive, no one is trying to make a universal design that could be used in any situation. The device turns out to be very heavy, uncomfortable and difficult to use.

Therefore, the dimensions and scheme of the fixture are selected based on the dimensions of the parts to be joined and the required pressing force. Conventionally, clamps are divided into three large groups:

• Carpentry and furniture bar clamps, they are trying to be made from hardwood and metal;
• Mounting clamps of high rigidity;
• Locksmith resistant clamps.

In addition to classic ruler clamps, custom-made clamps of non-standard schemes are widely used, most of them are made for performing one or two operations of increased complexity.

For example, drilling in an array of several boards to a great depth, cutting or gluing a beam in a figured way at a right or non-standard angle, welding parts of a complex configuration. More than enough options The best way to ensure the highest quality of the connection - it is still to make a clamp right size and forms.

DIY wooden universal clamp

The easiest way is to make a clamp from a wooden plank and timber. Wood is a fairly democratic material, so if you mark up the parts correctly and use the proper tools, you can make a clamp of any level of complexity without much effort.

To make a wooden clamp, you will need the following tools and fixtures:

• Desktop drilling machine power 400-500 W for drills from 1-15 mm. The vertical stroke of the drill chuck must be at least 120 mm;
• Electric grinding wheel. It can be made independently, for this, instead of an abrasive stone, a circle of plywood is installed on an electric grinder, 10 mm thick and 350 mm in diameter, on which sandpaper sheets are glued on both sides;
• Hand-held circular saw for wood with a blade diameter of at least 150 mm. You can use a grinder or a band saw.

All other operations can be done with a hand tool. Of course, you can also drill holes and cut grooves with a hand drill and a hacksaw, only to achieve the required quality and manufacturing accuracy using hand tools it will be very difficult.

Classic F Clamp

The design of the simplest wooden clamp looks like the Latin letter F. The vertical and upper horizontal bars are one piece - a fixed guide connected by an emphasis of one of the jaws. The central bridge of the letter F is the movable or reciprocal part of the jaws, which is driven by a lead screw. The third part of the clamp with a drive screw is made in a removable version. The clamp can be rearranged along the length of the guide bar, the distance between the jaws can be made smaller or larger, as far as the length of the base rail allows.

The general view of the clamp is shown in the photo.

First you need to make a guide rail. For these purposes, larch or spruce board is suitable. All other parts of the clamp can be made from any wood, except soft varieties, - poplars, lindens, birches.

Important! For the manufacture of any fixtures and accessories, only defect-free wood is used. If there is none, then it is best to make a clamp from ordinary plywood 15-20 mm thick.

The base bar is cut along the length of the future fixture. The supporting fixed part of the jaws of the clamp bears the lion's share of the load, so it is best to make the guide from the strongest wood or use a little trick.

A semicircular groove is cut along the side end of the rail, into which a steel bar with a diameter of 8-10 mm is placed. On the one hand, the end is bent around the end, at the other end, the rod is connected to a fixed jaw with a nut screwed onto a pre-cut thread.

The fixed part of the jaws is glued to the guide bar with carpentry glue, after the glue has dried, the supporting surface is carefully cut at an angle of 90 ° to the guide bar. This part can be made glued, or a mounting groove can be cut with a hand-held circular saw.

The reciprocal or movable part of the jaws is cut out together with the support for the screw from one bar. Next, in both blanks, you need to make U-shaped cuts, allowing you to put the parts on the guide bar. After removing the burr, the workpiece is installed in a package in a drilling machine and a hole is drilled for the lead screw.

If a sufficiently intensive use of the clamp is expected, then a brass tube must be pressed into the hole for the screw, and a plain bearing must be made. Otherwise, the lead screw will quickly break the hole by 2-5 mm, which will make the tool unsuitable for work.

Clamp assembled from wood and steel

It is convenient to work with a wooden clamp if you need to make a small pressure to fix a package of several planks or glue two parts together. If it is planned to process a beam or board with a carpentry tool, planer or grinder, then it is best to make a clamp for fixing the material with a metal guide.

The process of making a clamp from wood and steel is as follows:

It remains to assemble the clamp, the rearranged part is drilled under the fixing bolt, a bolt or stud is installed and tightened with a nut. At the end of the assembly, two or three idle runs should be made to upset the walls and facilitate the rotation of the screw.

Wooden clamp for fixing and screed sets

In 40% of cases, work in a carpentry or furniture workshop requires the use of long clamps to tighten whole sets or packages of planks, form furniture panels, tabletops and door leaf. The manufacturing process of clamps for the needs of the screed is practically no different from the usual wooden F-shaped fixture.

Unlike other fixture schemes, the screed clamp is made of massive timber, with a section of 50x50 mm and a length of at least 100 cm.

In addition, three blocks of oak or beech are required in order to make a fixed support with a lead screw and two parts of the jaws - rearranged and movable.

On the reciprocal rearranged support, an installation groove is cut and a hole is drilled into which a nut is pressed under the mounting bolt. The distance between the supports can be made larger or smaller if the sponge is moved to the next hole and fixed with a bolt.

Wooden clip from hanger parts

A small device, very reminiscent of a tightening type of clamps, can easily be made from ordinary suit hangers. The wooden base of the hanger is made of two identical halves of a trapezoidal shape.

First of all, to make a clip from a hanger, you need to fold the two halves of the hangers into one bag and clamp it in the vice of a drilling machine.

Without opening the machine vise, you will need to make four holes with a diameter of 8 mm. Two blanks are obtained, each of which has a pair of through holes. It remains to make a clamp, for this it is necessary to cut off two studs with an M8 thread, each 25 cm long. Studs can be glued into one of the halves or make a symmetrical version, as in the photo.

From the clamp, you can make a fixing device for gluing boards, holding pipes, or pulling together a package of several planks.

Fast C-clamp for wood

In addition to the classic options for carpentry clamps and clamps, when working with furniture and wood materials, you have to use small-sized clamps. One of these devices is a C-shaped clamp made of wood, photo.

Before making a clamp, you need to find a suitable wood blank. C-clamps require very strong wood, so acacia, elm or steppe oak are used for manufacturing. The U-shaped body is cut out with a grinder. With a total body size of 100x100 mm, the width of the sidewalls must be at least 2.5 cm.

In one of the sidewalls, you need to make a through hole with a diameter of 12 mm, into which two steel nuts, M8 or M6, are pressed. The easiest way is to screw the nuts onto the threaded rod, grease with glue and insert into the hole. It is necessary to make several gentle blows with a mallet so that the nuts with a slight interference fit into the through hole. It remains to make a handle, and the C-shaped clamp is ready.

Do-it-yourself metal clamp

Most metalwork and carpentry clamps are made of metal, most often steel or aluminum alloys, there are only two reasons for such selectivity:

• High strength of metal parts;
• Long service life even under heavy load.

To make metal clamps, you will need welding equipment, a grinder and a regular electric drill and a jigsaw.

Long clamp

It would be most logical to make a clamp in which the guide rail or plank of wood is replaced by a square profile pipe. A meter clamp can be made from a 20x20 mm square, for a two-meter one you need a 30x30 mm profile. The use of tubular square profile allows you to make the structure very rigid without "toffees" and shrinkage, as is the case with lumber.

The easiest way is to make a long clamp according to the classical scheme. Stationary, movable and adjustable parts are made of thick plywood.

Each part consists of two halves, which are cut with a jigsaw and bolted together on a long square tube. The lead screw can be made from two parts of a threaded stud and a regular piece of reinforcement.

Homemade welded rebar clamp

Instead of wood, you can use a regular reinforcing bar with a cross section of 8-10 mm. To make a clamp body from reinforcement, you will need to cut two blanks 65 and 55 cm long. The bars are heated for blowtorch and bent on a steel mandrel at a right angle according to the drawing.

The bent blanks are welded into one L-shaped structure, the spout and the linear sections of the reinforcement are necessarily connected by a welding seam.

The next step is to make a stand for the lead screw from a segment of 20 cm, to which a nut is welded. If the clamping force on the clamp is more than 50 kg, then the rack can be made bent or strengthened with an additional brace.

Homemade G-Clamp

The G-hull design is also called screw press for the tremendous force that can be obtained with a lead screw. Making a G-shaped clamp is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to cut the workpiece of the body of thick metal with a grinder, at least 7-8 mm thick.

The body is welded with the letter P. On the top shelf, you need to make a hole for the nut, then screw it onto the lead screw and install it in place of welding. A small piece of metal is placed on the bottom shelf - a table, which is pressed with an unscrewed screw. You only need to make a few welding points or seams to weld the table and nut, and the clamp is ready.

Wooden spacer for metal clamp support

An important part of any clamp is the lining that is installed under the supporting surfaces of the clamp. This is done to achieve two goals:

• Prevent damage to the part clamped by the clamp, since in metal fixtures the clamping pressure can easily reach several hundred kilograms;
• Uniformly transfer and distribute the force from the lead screw to the surface of the furniture board or fixed part.

It is best to make a gasket from ordinary birch plywood or softwood with a rough surface.

Clamp for winding the wire on the mandrel

A very difficult task is considered to be a reliable fixation of steel wire on a round workpiece, for example, a rubber pipe or a fitting head. Structurally, such a device consists of a double body and a winding pin.

The wire is wrapped around the pipe and hooked on a pin with a bolt head. For 2-3 turns with a key, the wound one-and-a-half loop is pulled to the desired state. It remains to twist the wire on the hose into several turns by turning the body and cut off its ends.

Do-it-yourself angle clamps

The use of specialized clamps today remains the only possible way to assemble any rectangular or square structures made of wood and metal with an ideally set right angle.

For example, a system of ready-made triangles that cover the planes of the joining sides and firmly hold them in the desired position until the fasteners are installed or welding is completed.

Clamp universal for any angle

A right angle, as a rule, is not a particular problem when working with clamps, it is much more difficult to make an angle of arbitrary size. To solve such problems, you need to make a fixture for the clamp, as in the photo.

The additional device is based on an ordinary pine block with a sector cut out in the center right angle. The second part is the usual right triangle, which can be made from spruce or pine slats.

A through hole is drilled at the top of the corner of the sector, with a diameter of 5-6 mm. It is the hole that allows the triangle to swing and change the angle of inclination of the clamp by 3-7 o.

Angle Steel Assembly Clamp

Connecting two parts at a right angle is much easier if you fix them in an angled clamp. In the simplest case, the device consists of two guides from a cut profile pipe or steel angle.

The guides must be set using a square at an angle of 90 ° and connected with additional sheet metal overlays.

To ensure that the workpieces do not fall out of the fixture during operation, two G-shaped clamps are additionally installed on each of the guides.

Do-it-yourself quick-clamp clamp

Sometimes when working with wood, clamps are required, with which you can fix or tack the part to the desktop or place in just a few seconds.

In order to make a quick clamp, you will need wooden planks or plywood 16-18 mm thick. Initially, the tracing paper of the details is transferred to the tree and cut out using an electric jigsaw. In the driven parts, it will be necessary to make cuts for the entry of the counterpart.

At the marked points of the axes, you need to make holes with a diameter of 20 mm.

Hinge axles are cut out of a round billet, ground and pressed into holes. It turns out the design of the clamp, somewhat reminiscent of scissors. The drive uses a standard lead screw with a diameter of 6 mm.

Clip for holding and fixing small parts

In a similar way, you can make a clamp for fixing especially small parts. You will first need to mark and cut out two halves of a device similar to tweezers or a medical clip from OSB or plywood.

The crescent-shaped blanks are interconnected using a wooden axis, so a hole of the appropriate diameter must be made in each of the parts of the clamp. For the body of the clamp, you can use ash or spruce, the axis must be made of a harder material - oak or beech.

Clamp made of rebar and wood

Using a reinforcing bar with a length of 50-60 cm and a diameter of 8 mm, you can make a very strong and at the same time lightweight frame for universal use.

The structure is based on a solid wood support block. The dimensions of the block are 150x50x30mm. Dimensions may vary depending on the thickness and bending radius of the reinforcing bar. A hook from a piece of reinforcement can be bent with a heavy hammer to steel pipe. The bend must be made so that the bent reinforcement is flat.

Tape universal clamp

One of the most interesting unusual clamp designs uses a thick polyester fabric belt as a strength element. A band clamp is used where it is necessary to evenly tighten several parts.

To make a tape clamp, you need to make corner elements and a device for tensioning a polyester belt. Three corners are cut out of ordinary pine on a printed tracing paper. The fourth element - the tensioner is made of two blocks and a tension screw.

The tape is passed around the block, if you unscrew the screw with a wrench, the distance between the blocks increases, and the belt of the device is tightened, pressing all four blocks to the part.

Cam fast clamps

Often, a part or workpiece in a clamp must be fixed quickly, and the clamp must be made without unnecessary movements. For example, when drying or painting a batch of panels or frames. For these purposes, it is best to make a specialized device with cam clamps, photo.

The difference of this device lies in the fact that instead of the traditional lead screw, plywood eccentrics are installed on the vertical jaws of the clamp.

To do this, on wooden racks, you must first make a cut along the thickness of the eccentric.

Telescopic folding clamp

The idea of ​​a telescopic clamping device is based on a set of pipes that fit into each other with a minimum gap, like a folding fishing rod, and a set of ring clamps with a screw lock.

A ring is cut off from each pipe, to which a piece of metal with threaded threads is welded. A wrapped screw or bolt fixes the pipe located inside, which allows the entire structure to be clamped into one extended rod.

Mounting universal clamps

In addition to clamps, two-shelf clamps are widely used for fixing glued parts of complex configuration. universal clamps, a photo.

The idea of ​​a clamp is borrowed from a bookbinding press, the dimensions and number of clamps are selected depending on the size of the part.

4-Way Poly Clamps for Wooden Panels

The lack of reliable fixation remains one of the problems that one has to face when assembling and gluing a shield from several wide and flat strips. It will not work to make an assembly even from five or six glued planks and pull the material with ordinary long clamps; with the slightest increase in effort, the shield arches.

The solution to the problem will be a fixture with four clamps, photo.

The panel is fixed with two pairs of clips. At the ends of each pair, you need to make a cross-shaped clamp from a nut and metal plates. At the opposite end of the mount, a height-adjustable hinge is installed. The lead screw of each clamp rests against a wooden lining. It is enough to make a few turns of the screw so that a pair of bars firmly compress the parts to be glued.

Clamping box for workbench mounting

If there is no special mounting cradle, parts of a complex configuration are not so easy to fix on flat surface workbench. In this case, to process wood detail complex spatial design, it is best to make a clamping box.

Making the design is quite simple:

• A box-shaped frame is assembled from plywood;
• Two beams are sewn along the long sides of the box, best made from pine, with a section of 50x50 mm;
• A number of mounting crossbars of the same material are stuffed.

The box allows, with the help of clamps, to ensure the retention of any, the most complex part. If it is planned to use powerful power tools for its processing, a clamp or clamp must also be made for the box-shaped base, fixing the fixture on the table.

Homemade coffee table clamp

A serious problem for everyone wooden tables magazine type was and remains a low transverse rigidity of the frame, even without a load, the tabletop often has a small, but extremely unpleasant backlash.

You can fix the problem by installing a homemade clamp or a tightening spring. Two planks or blocks of wood are connected to each other with a long metal bracket.

The fixture can be made with a screw clamp or self-clamping. In any case, the bars will strengthen and fix the frame with legs, thereby eliminating the existing backlash.

Inexpensive simple clip from a PVC pipe ring

Sometimes you have to look for improvised means to hold when carrying, but more often when drilling or processing parts and round objects. The simplest version of the clamp can be made from a PVC pipe ring.

Enough to drill two through holes, insert a couple of pieces of reinforcement and cut the wall of the ring in one place. The device is designed for a certain diameter of the part, so you will have to make a whole set of clamps to work.

Racks for a set of clamps

Work tools and clamps should first of all be stored in a specially designated place. Instead of a pile of tools that are difficult to find and select the necessary device, it is best to make several split racks or shelves. In this case, it will take only a couple of minutes to quickly select a few of the most suitable clamps in terms of size and design, and not half a day, as before.

Improvised clamps

Often, in carpentry work or when assembling wooden structures, there is not enough time to make full-fledged clamps and clamps. That's when wit and experience come to the rescue.

For example, a round workpiece can be fixed with several rings stuffed onto the frame.

Reinforcing bar or water pipe can be clamped with an impromptu clamp from several bars and adhesive tape.

An ordinary trunk tie-down cord will help pull off a set of a dozen wooden planks like a tape clip.

Do-it-yourself clamp is made according to a pre-prepared scheme. The tool is presented in the form of a clamp, which is used to fix different parts. Joiner's clamps are used for sawing, breeding saw teeth or sharpening it.

Quick clamp is a kind of manual vice, which is used for strong fixation of workpieces or parts.

Principle of operation

A quick-clamp clamp is a kind of manual vice, which is used to firmly fix workpieces or workpieces. The main elements of the device include a frame, a moving part, lips, a valve. Experts recommend making tools from iron.

The quick-release tool can be fixed with one hand. The object is inserted between the jaws, pressing it down with a movable system. Then the product is fixed with a valve. The advantages of the considered design experts include:

• light weight;
• the ability to capture large parts;
• high strength;
• transportation;
• fast work.

The quick release clamp is used for unclamping. To do this, you will need to dismantle the limiters and lips by turning the last elements over. With this tool you can process glass.

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Elements

Do-it-yourself clamps made of light metal quickly fail. The parameters of such units do not exceed 2 m. To press the overall sheets of plywood, you will need to make a sliding home-made clamp.

The components of the design include:

• frame;
• jaws for clamping;
• moving part;
• lever component.

The mobile design with the help of a thread changes the pitch between the jaws. From a constructive point of view, the lever device consists of levers and eccentrics. This tool is difficult to make at home.

To make a wooden clamp, the scheme and the following tools are used:

• threaded studs;
• slats;
• nuts;
• plywood.

The length of the studs should be 120 and 200 mm, and the diameter should be 5 mm. The size of plywood boards is 15x150x200 mm, and the parameters of 2 rails are 20x40x240 mm.

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Step-by-step instruction

The production of a homemade clamp consists in the use of wooden bars made of oak, beech, birch or ash. Such tools are fixed to the work surface. In the bars with which the clamping part is attached, 2 holes are made. This technology provides a tight fixation of the nut with the stud.

To obtain a stable and reliable structure, it is recommended to place the bottom bar flat.

The next step is to install plywood boards. A bar is attached to them. The bottom edge of the plywood must be placed 3 cm below the bar. The blanks are drilled. Studs are inserted into the holes obtained.

Plywood is used as a clamping element. Such clamps capture parts with a moving strip. The tool is fixed to the surface of the countertop with short pins. Long analogues determine the working stroke of the clamp. Nuts are a lever that fixes a moving element by adjusting the clamping force.

A homemade clamp for welding can be made from a hacksaw, 2 threaded studs and a nut. The last elements are inserted into the clamp connectors. The nuts are put on from the inside of the device. The resulting tool has 2 sizes. To prevent the body from breaking into 2 parts, the folding element is wrapped with electrical tape. The versatility of the resulting device lies in the possibility of its reverse transformation into a hacksaw. To fasten the sliding structure of the tool, steel fasteners are used. A homemade clamp is not recommended to be used to the limit of its capabilities. Otherwise, it will quickly fail. The universal clamp is made from a channel.

Its length depends on the maximum dimensions of the processed material. The thickness of the channel is selected taking into account the frequency of use of the future tool. Places for holes for bolts are placed along the axis of the channel. The last fasteners are welded to the thrust structure. Holes are cut with a welding machine. To achieve a tight stop fit, the nest is made in the form of a drop. A bolt is welded to the channel. The size of its head should correspond to the diameter of the nest.

The next step is to manufacture the clamping device. To do this, use a thick screw. The resulting tool is used when working with dimensional objects. Otherwise, 2 small clamps and a flexible insert are used. The material of the latter design must have a high degree of rigidity, and the plane must be curved. The ends of the flexible insert are pressed with 2 small clamps to the plywood sheets. The plane is recommended to evenly press on the surface to be glued. The method of manufacturing a homemade tool depends on the purpose of the device and the dimensions of the workpieces.