Simple and functional handmade f-clamps will become indispensable helpers in your workshop and will allow you to save a lot of money on expensive clamps, which, as you know, do not exist in many. Quick clamp cam type is optimal for situations where high clamping forces are not required: gluing narrow or small parts, edges, fixing workpieces, etc.

The cam clamp works on the principle of the classic f-shaped clamp. It consists of a guide rail and two jaws: movable and fixed. By fixing the workpiece in the jaws and turning the cam 90°, the tool will provide a strong and secure clamping. It will not be difficult to make a homemade clamp with your own hands at home, with a minimum of tools and consumables.

The proposed clamp drawing and detailing are a baseline. The design of the product is such that you can not go in cycles in materials and dimensions, changing them to suit your needs. The tire can be made from both metal and wood. You can also vary the length and width of the jaws to increase the grip depth of the clamp. Rivets or small bolts may be used instead of metal pins. The movable and fixed jaws are a mirror image of each other, so it is convenient to produce these parts in series, several pieces at once.

Having made a set of clamps and plain wooden stops shown in the photo with your own hands, you will get an effective angle clamp that will become indispensable assistant when gluing ideal frames.

A clamp is a clamping fixture that is used in working with wood and metal, paper and leather. In carpentry workshops, with the help of clamps, parts, boards and shields are glued together, with welding work clamp tightly parts metal products. In office work, they are used when filing documents for archiving, and in auto repair shops they clamp parts of the mechanism when repair work. The shoemaker with its help glues the soles better.

A clamp is a necessary detail in household use. They can be used to attach a pencil sharpener to a desk or table lamp to the bedside table. Even when changing the battery in a good expensive watch, you will need the help of a clamp to tightly close the case back. After all, with high-quality tightness, it closes very tightly.

You can buy a ready-made clamp in a store, but usually several different products are required in production at once, and they are quite expensive, so most craftsmen begin to think about making a clamp with their own hands.

Types of clamps

Required for work different types such clamping devices. They are made of metal or durable wood. They happen different shapes: F and G-shaped, tape, edge, pipe, quick-clamp, screw, angle or mounting. But no matter how the clamps differ in their design and appearance, the purpose of all devices is the same: to firmly fix the products for further processing or connecting parts to each other.

Angle clamp made of metal

Having made such a design on your own, you can firmly connect not only wooden, but also metal parts to each other. Use these clamps for welding.

To work, you need a steel corner having a thickness of 4 mm and a size of 40 mm, plates of 50 mm, threaded studs, nuts, washers and rods, a welding machine, a drill.

At an angle of 90 degrees, you need to weld the plates to the corners. From each side, also attach by welding a worm structure, which is a small piece of a corner with a welded stop nut, into which a knob with a hole for a metal lever is screwed on top. On the opposite side, a thrust mechanism is assembled, consisting of two washers. The emphasis freely scrolls on a hairpin.

This angle clamp is secure fastening parts at a right angle, which can be used not only for welding, but also in a carpentry workshop when working with wood or plywood.

Simple model for gluing corners

To make such a clamp with your own hands, you will need four steel corners of the same size, a threaded stud, two wing nuts, a drill, and a welding machine.

Two corners are welded together at a right angle, getting an even square in cross section. The next step is to weld the threaded studs inserted into the drilled hole of the same diameter. Holes must also be drilled in the remaining corners. The ready clamp is easy to assemble. To do this, you just need to clamp the glued wooden parts with wing nuts.

If it is necessary to glue large planes, you can take steel corners of greater length and install additional studs also from the bottom of the clamp.

Homemade tape clamp

This type of clamp is often used to make picture or photograph frames. Such a clamp is a universal mobile mechanism with which you can glue the corners of frames of various sizes.

For the manufacture of such convenient fixture 6 mm plywood is required, wooden beam ok, thick plywood 10-15 mm, jigsaw, screwdriver, metal square, simple pencil, thick tape with a clip, bolts, washers, wing nuts.

The first step is to make a "table". To do this, we take a rectangular sheet of plywood and fasten two wooden bars on the screws on the bottom from two opposite sides. Next, you need to clearly measure and draw the diagonals along which cuts for the structure will be cut with a jigsaw.

The next step is to make four frame holders from thick plywood. First you need to cut 4 identical pieces of plywood rectangular shape, then using a metal triangle, draw identical right angles on one side and cut them out. You also need to make a slot for the bolt so that the clamp has mobility and can move left and right. To prevent the stretched tape from jumping off, you can cut a recess on the opposite side of the corner.

Clamp

This type clamping mechanism designed for work that does not require particularly strong and tight compression of parts, as it does not have a strong connecting effect. Such a clamp can temporarily and quickly fix the part, for example, when cutting. It works due to the eccentric located in the middle of one of the parts of the clamping device.

For manufacturing, you will need wooden blocks or thick plywood, a metal plate, self-tapping screws, screws, bolts, a drill, a circular saw, sandpaper.

The first step is preparing wooden bars. Their shape can be different, at the request of the master. It doesn't play big role. A cut is made in the back, about 6-7 cm. A metal plate is inserted into the fixed part of the clamp with a preliminary drilled holes and bolted securely. On the moving part, the fasteners do not pass through the plate, but are located along the edges. The bar should move up and down.

Further work continues on the moving part. On the saw, a longitudinal cut is made, leaving a thin strip at the bottom. It will act as a clamp and should move. The cut is also made for the eccentric, which is screwed to the top of the part.

The eccentric is easy to do. With a compass on paper, draw a semicircle, the ends of which are connected by an angle. It turns out the form of a drop. Transfer the dimensions to thin plywood and cut it out with a saw. In order for this part to fulfill its role and put pressure on the moving part of the bar, we shift the center of the semicircle by 1 cm and drill a hole, attaching it to the upper bar with a screw. When turning the eccentric, the part is tightly fixed and quickly clamped.

Table clamp

Very easy to use and easy to perform desktop clamp. A wooden beam, a piece of plywood, bolts, a drill, a threaded stud and a metal stick for the lever are taken. Two bars are bolted onto a sheet of plywood, which are motionless on the table. Then the clamping device itself is installed.

A hole is drilled in one of the bars, into which a threaded pin is inserted, securely screwed into a smaller bar at a right angle. A lever is inserted into the free end for convenience. Very fast and easy, even a beginner can handle it.

Simple wood clip

This G-shaped design is designed to hold two planes when gluing. Having made several copies, you can fix all the corners. To work, you will need a wooden beam, plywood, a threaded stud, a nut, screws.

Having twisted three identical pieces of a wooden beam, we firmly fix it with the help of two rectangular pieces of plywood. Next, drill a hole for the stud. To make it move well, you can drive a nut tightly into a wooden beam, along which the stud will spin freely. The handle can be made at your discretion either wooden, or by inserting a simple lever from a metal stick.

Lamp installation

With the help of clips, you can rearrange the table lamp to a place convenient for reading: on desk, bed, bedside table or hanging shelf. The lamp on the clamp is convenient to use, therefore it is popular.

Quick clamps such as clamps can be used in all areas of life and production. Making them with your own hands is not difficult, you just need to allocate a little time and have a desire. Successful work!

In order to speed up and simplify the process of work, for example, when working with metal products, you will need a couple of angle clamps! In addition, after welding, the metal clamped into the clamp does not lead away as without it, and the angle remains 90 degrees.
It is not difficult to make an angle clamp with your own hands, it is enough to have on hand small remnants of a profile pipe, a hairpin, and, of course, bolts with nuts, which I think everyone has.

Visually, the clamp can be divided into two parts: the base and the clamping part.

First of all, we make the base from a professional pipe 25 * 60 as shown in the photo.

Base made of profile pipe 25*60

First, you can assemble it on tacks, then completely boil the seams and clean it well with a grinder.

Then, from the same pipe 25 * 60, we cut off two segments of 160 mm each and weld them along the edges. You need to cook only from the outside and from the ends, because. With inside the workpiece will be pressed and the seam may interfere.

We weld the outer jaws 90 degrees to each other.

The outer and inner clamps must be exactly 90 degrees to each other, after welding, make sure that they have not moved or been pulled away.

The next step is to make a mount for the clamping part.

We cut off a segment from a 40 * 40 pipe 30 mm long and cut off one of the sides, making it the letter "P", then weld it to the base. To fix the screw, we need to drill two holes for 8 and a third (lower) hole for 10, so that the socket wrench goes into it (you will understand why later).

We make a mount for the screw.

With the first part finished, now proceed to the second.

From the same pipe 25 * 60 we make internal clamps (sponges), on the outer sides I got 105 mm.

We press them with clamps to the external clamps and weld them together.

We make internal clamps.

We cut out two triangles 2 mm thick and weld to the internal clamps from above and below. We drill a through (in two triangles) hole at 8.

We weld two triangles and drill a hole.

To fasten the screw in one and the other parts, we weld nuts 8 and 14 together (as shown in the photo). We make two pairs.

We make a mount for the screw.

We screw one nut onto the screw, and for the second we need to prepare it.

We grind the screw in a circle a little more than the width of the nut and cut the thread at the end by 8. We put a washer on it, the main thing is that it be of a smaller diameter than the screw thread, put on a fastener welded from three nuts and tighten the bolt. The mount should rotate freely, and the groove was made so that during the rotation of the screw, the nut would not be screwed onto it, but would rotate freely.

Novice woodworking enthusiasts will find our instructions with a sequentially described process for the manufacture of carpentry clamps of several varieties will be useful. In it, we will tell you what materials to use for this and how to make a device that is exactly suitable for your own needs.

Materials for body, stop and jaws

In carpentry, clamps are used to securely and carefully hold several parts together while they are mechanically connected or while the glue dries. The pressing force should not be colossal, it is much more important not to damage the surface of the parts to be joined. At the same time, the clamp must maintain high strength and be durable.

For the manufacture of clamp parts that are in direct contact with the workpiece, it is better to use hardwood. Ideally, these are bars and planks made of larch, beech, hornbeam or birch. Such a tree has a sufficiently high strength and at the same time is elastic, restoring its shape well. The hardness of such wood is usually higher than that of the processed parts, which can be compensated by heels made of leather, light rubber, felt or softer wood.

Both solid wood and rolled metal can be used as a frame for the clamp. corners or profile pipes fit well, but they need to be carefully cleaned, primed and painted so that there are no traces of rust on the finished product. To prevent accidental mechanical damage or punching of the parts to be joined, it is recommended to stick wooden planks over the metal elements of the clamp or pull on a loose silicone hose.

Which screw and flywheel to use

Despite the not very high pressing force, conventional studs with metric thread will not be very convenient for use as a clamp screw, except for a very small one. A small thread pitch will make it tedious to choose a free stroke, among other things, a triangular profile is “eaten up” much faster.

It would be much more correct to purchase studs with a trapezoidal or rectangular thread, otherwise called a jack thread. The optimal step is about 2-2.5 turns per centimeter, so a good smoothness of adjustment and an optimal tightening force for wooden parts are achieved.

You can get studs, nuts and fittings of the right type either by contacting a turner directly or in a hardware store, including on the Internet. There is, however, one BUT: most factory products have a full thread, while a slightly different screw configuration is optimal for a clamp. Ideally, if there are smooth pillars at the ends of the stud: about 20 mm long for the bearing fit (slightly thicker than the thread) and about 30-40 mm for the handle (slightly thinner or the same diameter).

The handle or flywheel can be made either from a block of wood, or by drilling a hole in the side of the stud and inserting a steel bar into it as a toggle lever, like in a vice.

Straight screw clamp

For the manufacture of the simplest clamp, you will need a frame in the form of a U-shaped bracket. It can be made in two ways. The first is to connect three bars at right angles on a tongue-and-groove joint, reinforcing it with glue and a pair of dowels. This option requires a fairly high qualification of the carpenter: hemming and fitting must be done with high accuracy, because the load in these nodes is very significant.

The second option is somewhat simpler, but more expensive in terms of material consumption. You can cut the bracket out of thick birch plywood by gluing 3-4 blanks 12-16 mm thick with Titebond wood glue.

When choosing the shape of the parts, keep in mind that the most reliable design will be with external slopes for greater rigidity. The stop of the bracket and its opposite part, in which the clamping screw will be fixed, must be trapezoidal. In this case, the inclined sides should diverge outward at an angle of about 30º more than a straight one. Thickening in the middle of the frame is also highly desirable.

To fix the screw, it is recommended to use nuts or nuts of the appropriate diameter, which are fixed in one of the "horns" of the clamp frame from the inside and are additionally strengthened epoxy resin. If the bracket was assembled from bars, then you need to insert a screw into one of them before final assembly. If the frame structure is multi-layered, then the bushings can be replaced with nuts, which are glued into the cut of the central plywood layer. Here it is important to follow the direction of the axis of the screw and at the same time not to allow glue to get into threaded connection- Lubricate it well with grease.

At the point where the clamping heel is attached to the screw, some kind of swivel is necessary so that the parts do not move when clamped. It is best to press a bearing, selected according to the diameter of the inner race, onto the whole edge of the screw stud. For a secure stop, clamp the pin into the drill chuck, and then cut a groove under the retaining ring with a triangular file and a hacksaw. Next, in the bar serving as a support heel, you need to make a cylindrical groove with a core drill and press the bearing with the pin into it, strengthening the fit with varnish or epoxy.

Adjustable universal clamp

Clamps with a variable opening width are more versatile in application, they are most often used when rallying furniture panels. To make such a clamp, you will need a calibrated rail made of dry hardwood, ideally beech or ash. A constant profile size is required along the entire length and the complete absence of any defects. The clamping force that the clamp can withstand directly depends on the thickness and width of the rail.

So, manufacturing should begin with fixing a perpendicular stop at one end of the longitudinal rail. It is better to make it from two bars that fold and clamp the rail in two symmetrical grooves, or fill it in the manner of a hammer. Thus, the workpiece for a clamp with a fixed stop acquires a T-shape, and the length of the stop on the working side must be greater than the overhang from reverse side no more than 3 times. The connection of the stop with the rail can be strengthened with furniture ties, it is also possible to connect on 2-3 dowels and PVA glue.

The reverse part of the stop is designed to secure the bowstring. A straight steel bar with a diameter of 10-12 mm is ideal for it. At the end of the bar, thread should be cut and spread between the end stops with nuts from the inside. Holes for the bowstring should be drilled as close as possible to the back edge of the stop. In this case, the indentation from the edge should be sufficient so that the wood does not split. After installing the bowstring, it is necessary to mark a series of notches on the end of the bar facing the clamped part, in increments of 15-20 mm, make cuts up to 2 mm deep with a hacksaw using this marking and cut the notches with a knife.

Next, you should make a movable clamp block. A through eyelet of rectangular section is made in it, the dimensions of which exactly correspond to the thickness and width of the longitudinal bar. Ideally, gouge a groove 2-3 mm smaller, and then bring it to the desired shape with a square rasp. The bar should sit snugly in the last, but at the same time allow relatively free movement along the clamp and its slope for locking on the notches. Under the string you also need to do through hole with the expectation that the bar is located strictly perpendicular to the rail, and the block slides freely along it with a slight backlash.

On the reverse side of the hard stop, you need to fill another block, which will fasten the bar with the bowstring parallel to each other. To do this, you can use a small piece of the bar, in which a groove for the bar is made with a chisel and an incomplete hole for the bowstring is drilled. Dowels or bolts are used to fix the pads. As for the clamping screw and the heel, they are installed by analogy with a conventional clamp. It is enough to drill a through hole in the movable block not too close to the edge and paste a futorka or nut into it from the inside. So when the part is clamped, the nut of the screw mechanism will rest against the wood and sit even tighter.

Angle clamp

The most difficult to manufacture can be called a clamp, which ensures the fixation of two parts at a right angle. At the same time, it is the most useful and sought-after tool in the carpenter's workshop.

The basis for the corner clamp will be a piece of thick plywood. It is better to take a square plank of about 300x300 mm with a thickness of at least 14 mm. In the corner of the base, you need to fix two bars of hardwood, which for convenience we will call reference. These pads must converge at a right angle facing the center of the plywood board, the thickness of the bars is at least 25x25 mm. Their fastening should be as rigid as possible: it is recommended to first glue the bars, ensuring their perpendicularity with the help of a bench square, and then strengthen the connection with ties or bolts.

From the center of each block, you need to draw a perpendicular line, coaxial with which the screw studs will be located. It is necessary to retreat from the bars by a distance of 20-30 mm more than the maximum thickness of the parts to be tightened. After that, two more bars are rigidly attached to the base parallel to the previous ones. It is advisable to glue the nuts immediately, and then proceed with the stop bars in the same way as with the reference ones: first position them on the adhesive joint, and then strengthen them with ties. For greater convenience, you can immediately screw the screw studs into the nuts.

After fixing the thrust bars, it remains only to press on the bearings fixed in the movable blocks. The cross section, dimensions and material of the latter should be similar to the reference bars. Finally, you need to fill the handles or insert the toggle levers and cut off the excess base of the clamp, removing the protruding corners for free rotation by the screw handles

Individual clamps for specific operations

In any carpentry workshop, homemade clamps show themselves to be more adapted to local working conditions than purchased in a store. You can use a wide range of variations of the three designs described above.

For example, on one rail, you can fix not one, but two adjustable pads for positioning parts at a great distance. Such a tool will be very useful, for example, when assembling door blocks.

Instead of a handle, you can weld a regular hexagonal bolt cap onto the stud. This is true if, when assembling parts, several clamps need to be often clamped, released and rearranged. At the same time, it will be convenient to rotate the clamping screw using end head with a ratchet or even a screwdriver.

To assemble products of complex shape, you can make clamp stops and movable blocks of a more complex configuration, which are well suited for working with irregularly shaped parts.

If the master decides to perform some work from wood or metal, then he should process the part. But this can be done qualitatively only if this part is very firmly fixed with a clamp.

The old models of such a tool made it possible to work with only one hand, but now there are new models of this tool, which serves as an indispensable assistant to any master, and they are not only quick-clamping. but also allowing you to work with the part with two hands.

There are several types of such clamps:

Let us briefly describe each type of clamp. The first type is lever. This means that the work of such an assistant tool is based not only on axial work, but also on the work of levers. Often popularly they are also called clamps, which allow you to quickly fix the parts intended for processing.

Lever clamps do not require a lot of force from the master; in order to clamp something with them, it is worth applying a little force. And in order for the parts to be clamped tightly and no longer able to move, it is necessary to use a lever that will do all the work for a person.

The design of such a lever clamp is quite simple, it can even be done with your own hands. This will require the main frame and some element, where just the main clamp can be. With the help of such an assistant tool, you can not only clamp parts and make them immovable, but also calculate the clamping force, which is important, for example, when gluing.

The remaining types of clamps differ from the first type and among themselves in that they have different clamping mechanism. Many of these types of tools - an assistant can be made with your own hands.

How to choose the right clamp when buying

Choosing a tool such as a clamp is not difficult, you just need to know a few rules that will be able to purchase such a tool - an assistant that will become indispensable for you when doing any type of work. First of all, you should pay attention to what your tool has a working stroke.

Moreover, it is worth paying attention to what is the distance between the elements - clamps. The higher the indicators for these two points, the better this tool will be for you. This will allow the use of clamps for working with parts, both large and small.

Varieties of screw clamp

In such a tool - an assistant, not a lever, but a screw, is put forward in the first place. Such a clamp is also popularly called a pipe clamp, as it is used to clamp pipes, which are usually used for plumbing work.

Such a tool is considered very strong and reliable in plumbing, as it is made of duralumin. By the way, such an instrument has also been used special mounting holes. so that it is convenient to fasten any part to the workbench during work. It will be quite difficult to make such a tool with your own hands and at home.

Now a few words about the mounting clamp, which is most often used in the construction of various objects. The main purpose of this tool is hold any building materials. such as reinforced concrete slabs, so that they can be processed with high quality.

Such a clamp is considered the most reliable for work, but if you study its design, you can easily understand that it is simple. Looking at the drawing, where its constituent elements are reflected, you can easily assemble it with your own hands.

The hand clamp has several options:

There are other options for this hand tool- assistant. In the people, such a clamp is called a spring clamp. This is due to the simple design and the same simple application. Therefore, it is easy to make such an assistant tool with your own hands.

Instructions for making a tool - an assistant with your own hands

To make a clamp, you must correctly step by step follow the steps that are described in the instructions. To begin with, we acquire those parts that are necessary for the manufacture of a tool - an assistant with our own hands.

To make a clamp, you will need the following items: several studs with threads of different diameters, nuts. that will fit in size, a few planks made of plywood, and a couple of slats.

The second step for making a clamp is to create a base. You can also make it yourself. To do this, it is worth fixing what you have already done on the table. Then we take the bars and, applying to the clamp, we drill holes where they are needed in order to press them tighter to the base of the table.

The third step is to make a clamp with your own hands. This will require those plywood boards that you prepared in advance. You must press them against the bars that are already fixed on the clamp, but in such a way that they are movable.

You must understand that the role of these boards in the tool that you make with your own hands is to be levers in the clamps. Now, using studs and nuts, it remains to secure this entire structure, which you made with your own hands.

But using such a tool - an assistant that you made with your own hands, you should understand that it is not very durable and it is difficult to talk about its reliability. But it can be great for doing many household chores, as long as they are not very difficult.

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Simple making of a clamp with your own hands from improvised materials.

Hello to all DIY lovers! And in this article, I want to show one of the options for making a simple clamp from improvised materials. It will take quite a bit of time to make this homemade product, but on the farm this thing is very useful! Everyone, I think, knows where you can apply a clamp, especially if you like to do everything yourself!

So, for the manufacture of this homemade product, I used:

- a wooden block (a piece of a block remained from my previous homemade Homemade ladder "Swedish wall");

- hairpin by 8 (do the length at your discretion, I took 20 cm);

- working tool (screwdriver, jigsaw, multifunctional device, keys, crowns, etc.).

First of all, we mark the template of the future clamp on the bar.

Then, using a jigsaw, we cut out the blanks.

These are the bars you should get.

Now, with the help of an MFP (by the way, a very convenient thing for processing small workpieces) and a special nozzle with sandpaper (who does not have such a tool, you can just get by with sandpaper), we process the workpieces.

Such beauty turned out, but to complete it, I also processed the future clamp with dark varnish.

I made holes with the help of a crown to hide the nuts in a bar and drilled through holes.

Now just putting it all together

And here is such a wonderful assistant I got!

How to make a clamp with your own hands?

Buying clamps is very expensive. Therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary expenses, it would be useful to know how to make a clamp with your own hands. Quite often, in the manufacture of furniture or wooden products, clamps are required in in large numbers. Especially if wooden crafts produced professionally. To make clamps on your own, you will need primitive improvised materials that everyone has available. In addition, the work process itself is not complicated and does not require professional skills, which will allow you to quickly create the necessary auxiliary tool.

Clamp diagram: a - parts, b - assembled, 1 - rectangular hole, 2 - pusher, 3 - body wall, 4 - ledge, 5 - hole in the body, 6 - clamping screw, 7 - movable jaw, 8 - lever, 9 - protrusion, 10 - threaded holes, 11 - screws.

What is a clamp, and is there any point in making it yourself?

A clamp is an auxiliary tool that is used to fix the boards when they are connected (using glue, fasteners, etc.) or, if necessary, to compress them. Usually clamps are made of metal or wood. A clamp is also used to cut boards evenly, to make wiring for a hacksaw, to connect various parts and elements, etc. At the same time, homemade clamps are in no way inferior to purchased ones. To understand the principle of making a clamp with your own hands, you should understand its design.

Scheme of the assembly of the corner clamp.

Such clamps consist of 2 elements - a “body” (frame) and a fixing element (movable clamp). There are clamping jaws on the movable element and the frame, and for better fixation, the movable element is equipped with a lever. Sometimes there are lever clamps, but they are rare due to their complexity in production, both in industrial enterprises and at home.

The operation of the clamps is simple: parts (or material) that require processing are inserted into the body of the tool, then the working material is clamped with a moving element (clamping occurs with sponges), after which you can start processing or working with parts or material.

In most cases, the number of clamps required for a particular operation is not limited to 1 pc. For a tight fixation of the hacksaw, use 2 pcs, for fixing wooden planks- from 2 or more (depending on their length). In addition, if you want to connect parts, it is recommended to use a pair of clamps. Many people forget to take them off after work is done, which often leads to the loss of the tool. And primitive factory-made metal clips are not cheap, which makes it cost-effective to make such tools yourself. Below we will consider how to make carpentry clamps from wood and metal, and how an angle clamp is made by hand.

Making a wooden clamp

It is much easier to make a wooden clamp than all other types of such a tool. Such clips are very convenient when performing various carpentry work.

The main materials needed to make a clamp.

To make them you will need:

• pieces of boards (you can plywood);
• studs (which should be pre-threaded);
• nuts (for threaded studs);
• slats.

For the manufacture of the clamp, two studs 200 mm long with pre-threaded threads and 2 studs 120 mm long should be prepared. It is important that all 4 studs have the same diameter. Next, nuts are selected under the thread of the studs, two rails are prepared. Reiki should be prepared from hardwood. Oak is ideal, but beech, birch or ash slats are also suitable.

Then the slats need to be made the same in size. To do this, saw off all the excess and produce grinding. Then 2 holes are drilled in each rail. The holes must be at the same points on each rail. The diameter of the holes must match the diameter of the studs.

The next step is to stick plywood (as sponges) on the surface of the slats. When the plywood is glued, all the protruding parts are cut to the size of the battens, and the plywood sponges themselves are drilled through the holes in the battens.

Hacksaw before modification and clamps obtained from it after modification.

Then long slats are inserted into the resulting holes. They will act as guides.

After the guides are installed, they are fixed with nuts to the rails. 2 nuts are screwed onto each guide.

Next, insert short studs. To make them immovable, the studs are riveted on one side. It is important that one stud is riveted from the back of one rail, and the other from the back of the other. Nuts are used as clamps. In order to make it more convenient to tighten them, lamb nuts are used. In this case, it is important to cut the threads on the fixing studs along their entire length.

This completes the manufacture of the wooden clamp.

How to make a screw metal clamp

To make such a clamp, you first need to prepare the materials. For the clamp body, you can use a sheet of steel about 1 cm thick or even and straight metal cuttings of the same thickness. The length of the workpiece depends on what working distance the clamp will have. For manufacturing, you will need long screws or bolts M8 or M10.

Clamp assembly diagram.

At the beginning of the manufacturing process, markings of the future tool body are applied to the workpiece material. Often the body of the instrument looks like the letter "C". In this case, the thickness of the workpiece can be different. It depends on the required length. working area. When the markup is applied, the part is cut out. To do this, at home use gas cutters, acetylene torches or a grinder. The grinder is used for workpieces of small thickness, it is problematic to use it when cutting out small curly elements.

When the workpiece is cut, it is polished with files, sandpaper. Grinding is important process, if you do not grind the part, then there is a chance of cutting yourself on sharp edges when working with the tool.

Then, on one side, fasteners are made for the movable element. To do this, M8 or M10 nuts are welded to one of the sides of the clamp body. If there are no bolts or screws of sufficient length, hexagons or rebar of the desired length can be used. They should be threaded first. A flat flat part (on the working side) is welded to the end of the screw, which will act as sponges. A lever is welded on the opposite side (studs can be used as a lever), which should simplify the clamping process. This completes the manufacture of the clamp.

Another option is to make a clip like a caliper. For this, a sliding frame made of steel strip is used. The end of the strip is flattened, and sponges are welded to it. Further, a movable element is made from the same strip, to which nuts are welded and a screw is screwed in for fixation.

It is more difficult to make such a clamp, but it has a longer stroke and, accordingly, a larger working area.

Do-it-yourself clamp. How to make a clamp with your own hands?

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A do-it-yourself clamp facilitates the work of the master and saves him money.

No master can do without a clamp. Whether it is a carpenter, or a metalworker, there is always a need to use it.

This device is available in different options from universal to specialized. Relatively recently, a new modification has appeared: a quick-clamp clamp. Develops compression force up to 450 kg.

The task for all types is common - to fix the workpieces for processing or connecting to each other.

Like any other tool - clamps can be purchased at the store or made independently. The second option is often chosen by professionals. It’s easier to come up with your own design than to look for an option for individual tasks.

Homemade clamp - varieties and manufacturing technologies

Such devices are used to fix two objects (not necessarily the same size) at a right angle, to connect them together in any way. It can be wooden blanks when gluing, or assembling with the help of corners and confirmation.

However, most often, an angle clamp is used as a jig for welding. metal parts at a right angle.

For manufacturing you will need:

• steel corner 40 mm, 3-4 mm thick;
• steel plates 40-50 mm wide;
• threaded studs, preferably hardened;
• bars for collars;
• nuts for the worm mechanism;
• welding machine;
• drill, taps.

We weld the corners to steel plates strictly at an angle of 90 °.

We attach a worm structure to each side by welding. This is the same corner with a welded stop nut or thickening, in which the thread is cut in accordance with the hairpin. The width of the working gap is selected for potential workpieces.

IMPORTANT! If the range of workpiece sizes is too wide, it is better to make several clamps. Too much stroke of the knob does not contribute to a strong fixation.

A stud-knob is screwed into the working nut, after which an emphasis is assembled at its end. As a rule, this is a design of two metal washers. different size. The stop should scroll freely on the hairpin.

On the reverse side of the knob, we drill a hole into which we insert a metal rod as a lever.

A properly assembled metal clamp allows you to securely fasten steel parts for welding, or wood for carpentry. The design is so simple to manufacture - that it has become a real life among homemade craftsmen.

Carpentry option 1

The simplest wood clamp used in carpentry is made from the following materials:

1. Two blocks of wood and a non-solid but strong material. Pine will do. Too hard wood will leave marks on the workpiece with strong fixation;
2. Furniture nuts with a latch under a tree;

Steel studs, not necessarily expensive hardened steel;

Nuts - lambs with a thread corresponding to the studs;

Washers are persistent, you can also use ordinary, inexpensive ones.

Working pliers are cut out of the bars. Holes for studs are drilled in them strictly parallel, with a slight backlash.

The studs are screwed into furniture nuts and locked. Convergence is provided by lambs, or regular nuts with an open-end wrench (if a particularly strong grip is required).

ADVICE! If you make two sets of identical clamps, the scope will expand. Then you can use the device as a carpenter's vise.

Carpentry option 2

For quick fixation of small parts, a clamp is used, made in the form of a caliper.

The device is made of bars and thin plywood. The worm system is familiar - furniture nuts and a hairpin-knob. The fixed stop is firmly attached to one end of the guide rail. Recesses are cut out on the rail itself to fix the movable mechanism.

Having moved the bracket to the required distance, it remains to turn the knob a few turns, and the part is fixed. After releasing the stop mechanism, the carriage moves easily, freeing the workpiece.

The stationary version of this clamp has a rail design. On two guides installed in parallel - grooves are cut at the same distance. On them, with the help of metal rods, fixed stops are attached. They can be moved to the desired distance, according to the width of the workpieces. Fixed stops with a worm gear are installed at the end of the bars.

The clamp is carried out in the usual way - furniture nut, hairpin, collar.

Carpentry option 3

Sometimes it is necessary to simply press the workpiece against the processing table. For this, there is a self-clamping clamp. The illustration shows how to make metal or wooden brackets.

The principle of operation is simple - you need a lever with an eccentric at the swivel end. By turning it at an undefined angle, we get an automatic quick clamp. The overall height is adjustable with a pin fixed to the workbench.

It is possible to fix two clamps of this type on a mobile template for mass milling identical workpieces.

This type of quick-clamping clamps is made individually for each matrix, or rearranged on a new substrate for cutting out the next form.

Pipe clamp

Welding metal pipes end to end is a rather difficult task that requires precise orientation of workpieces in space. If you weld a piece of pipe to a finished system fixed in a room, the task is simplified. And welding of free-lying segments requires an assistant or a special device.