Melamine edging sticker - do-it-yourself adhesive edging tape. Edge for countertops with glue - how to glue? Do-it-yourself pasting of chipboard with pvc edge

In this article, we will consider the simplest option - this is gluing a 2 mm edge with a pre-applied hot melt adhesive. You can order such an edge either in the supplier company or in the workshop. The increase in its cost will be 2-5 rubles per meter.

To glue such an edge, we need a technical hair dryer (thermal gun), a milling cutter (preferably an edge cutter), a molding cutter, a sharp knife, a file and a cotton glove.

We fix the part vertically or horizontally - as you prefer (it is advisable to fix it with clamps).

First, we warm up the tip (about 5 cm) of the edge well so that the glue melts and the edge itself becomes soft.

We apply the edge and, heating the glue with a stream of air, together with the end of the part, smooth the edge with a gloved hand. After warming up the area about 10 cm long, set aside the hair dryer and iron the area more carefully and so on every time. The main thing here is not to overheat the edge (the overheated edge easily bends - just by itself - and in this case the places of inflections in the form of waves will remain visible).

We look at the glue line again, heat the non-glued places with a hairdryer again (and you need to warm it with front side, warming up the entire edge) and smooth to a full fit.

We turn to cutting overhangs. If you have an edge router, then everything is fine, but if only a universal manual one, then it will require refinement, because. do not put it on the edge of the workpiece - the overhang interferes.

I screwed a piece of chipboard onto the sole, which allowed me to lift the sole on one side only.

Then, of course, I made myself a normal edging - I will use it in the lesson.

Practice on scraps first to fine-tune the cutter cut, otherwise you risk damaging the laminate. Like this, for example:

A milling cutter with a molding copy cutter (curve radius 3 mm) carefully, without swaying, guides along the workpiece face, cutting off excess edges.

We turn over to the other side and repeat all the manipulations to smooth the jambs and cut off the overhangs.

We cut off the remains from the ends as follows: we press with a sharp knife along the edge, forming a scratch. We lay the workpiece on the edge of the table along the line of the scratch, after which we break it off with a downward movement.

Or we saw off a piece from the end hacksaw blade(the main thing here is not to scratch the adjacent edge, perpendicular to the sawn one).

Irregularities and roughness are cleaned with a file.

The end result should be something like this. For clarity, a straight (short) piece of the edge was glued on the machine, and a long one (which covers the bend) was glued by hand. The difference is almost invisible.

Today I again tried to glue 0.4 mm PVC edge with an iron. My previous attempts failed (the edge melted before the glue, shrank even at the lowest heat levels. In general, nothing worked). Based on these experiments, I concluded that this is not possible at all. I confess, I was wrong - thanks to the guys - they convinced me. I picked up another iron - newer and again took up experiments.

Since I don’t have a glue applicator, I decided to use the method of applying glue from the melamine edge directly to the workpiece, which I also read about somewhere on the web. For work, I needed an iron (more precisely, two - see below), a sanding block (best not with an abrasive, but with felt - it will also flash in subsequent photos), a melamine edge - any color, a PVC edge (which we will glue) and a metal ruler or here is such a square. I will give a larger view of both types of edges (the photo shows that PVC is without glue, while melamine has a thermal adhesive layer applied).

To begin with, we fix the workpiece on a workbench, preferably vertically.

Then we apply a piece of melamine edge to it and smooth it with a hot iron (we set the heating regulator to the second position).

Having ironed in one direction, we begin the movement of the iron in the other, tearing off the edge until the glue has cooled.

We see that the glue remains on the workpiece.

Another photo, more visual. It can be seen that there is almost no glue left on the melamine tape, while it is present on the workpiece.

Now we cut off a piece of PVC tape of the desired length (with a small traditional margin)

At first I tried to glue it again with my old iron (letting it cool beforehand) the result is deplorable. The edge immediately shriveled up.

Then I took up the next generation iron (which I wringed out from my mother-in-law) and set it to the very minimum.

Moved the edging tape to the right so that the deformed piece did not lie on the surface to be treated and began to smooth it with an iron. Things are progressing more slowly than with.

Warming up in one direction, we begin to move the iron in the opposite direction, smoothing the edge tape after it with the palm of your hand.

Surplus from the ends lends itself perfectly to simple scissors.

The cut is perfectly even and does not require additional finishing. (but if necessary, you can rub a bar with a fine abrasive a couple of times).

To trim the overhangs on the edges, it is advisable to lay the detail horizontally .. Personally, it’s so much more convenient for me. They, as in the case of melamine, lend themselves perfectly to a metal ruler, driven at an angle shown in the photo.

The cut is a little rough. It should be polished.
This is done with a felt bar, with which we make several movements along the edge at an angle.

Turning the workpiece over, I found a non-glue zone. Not pleasant, but not fatal.

Again we take the iron and press the non-glued area for 20-30 seconds.
Then we change the iron to a felt bar, with which we also press it until the glue cools.

The result is such a PVC-sealed butt end.
This technique is well suited for big parts especially when melamine edging is not suitable and edging is not available for some reason. But in terms of time, it is quite costly.

The edge in furniture production is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapor.

You will learn about what edges are, as well as how to glue them and how to glue an edge with an iron and a hairdryer, from this article.

Types of edges - why are they needed

1. The most common type is melamine edge with glue on paper basis . It is applied to finishing of internal sites of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the best quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, wears out quickly. Easy to stick at home with a simple iron.
2. T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
3. PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant, resistant to moisture. Gluing PVC edging will require an edger, so using this type of edge at home is difficult.
4. ABS plastic is an eco-friendly, chlorine-free option. Valued for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue and with glue.

The average cost of a profile per linear meter:

• PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
• PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
• Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, products from Rehau are actively used, which offers a large selection color solutions, as well as different tape widths from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that will calculate how much material is needed to glue the edges.

PVC edge - how to glue in stages at home

For work you will need:

• iron or building hair dryer,
• and of course buy a PVC edge with glue
• hard roller,
• newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated to make the adhesive sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the "Synthetics" mode.

• The profile is applied to the end in such a way that it overlaps the end of the section.
• Next, the iron again performs heating through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
• The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along the entire length.

1. Bonding with a building hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired area, clamped and gently smoothed.
2. Gluing with glue "Moment". This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the butt is checked manually, sawdust, rubbish, dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After that, apply and press. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grabs faster.

VIDEO

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, glue is again applied to the area and the profile is clamped with a roller or manually.

Since usually the width of the PVC edges is taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess along the edges. To do this, use a regular clerical knife or file. It is taken with both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts are broken off and an edge remains that matches the width of the section.

Shutdown

After everything is glued, it remains to process the bumps sandpaper.

How to glue an edge on chipboard - a description

Melamine edging is the best option for home use when you need to refurbish old furniture With minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality material.

Consider, how to glue the edge on a chipboard tabletop at home.

GREAT VIDEO RELATED TO THE TOPIC

To work, you will need the following materials:

• skin,
• sharply sharpened knife-jamb,
• wallpaper roller,
• melamine edge,
• building hair dryer or iron.

Action algorithm:

1. select the operating mode of the iron so that it does not get too hot and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
2. process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
3. measure the profile
4. heat it with an iron and press it firmly against the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, Moment glue),
5. cut off the hanging edges of the edge with a knife.

It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly wringing the material. Then it remains to sand the edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.

If the cut of the edge and the chipboard itself are slightly different, the stain will help correct the difference.

In the case when the part has a complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material evenly the first time. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to spoil the product.

Types of edge glue

What glue to choose for the edge

Furniture professionals actively use hot melt adhesives for edging. They are convenient if the production will be put on stream, and both high quality results and fast speed are required.

Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means that when heated they become very elastic and when cooled they harden quickly. The polymer of ethylene with vinyl acetate, which is part of the adhesive, is responsible for these properties. The disadvantage of using is the need to use special equipment, namely the appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.

1. In domestic conditions, PVC glue is often used, which adheres paper materials well to various surfaces. Homogeneous without lumps of light color, the mass glues surfaces well, but is afraid of moisture. It does not require the use of additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for non-professional masters to use.
2. Suitable universal adhesives "Moment and" 88-lux"Which will securely glue the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
3. From professional furniture glue for the edge, it is worth noting products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material using the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

Today we will analyze a more professional technique for gluing the end decorative edge. This is hot glue edging with a hair dryer. Naturally, not having professional equipment, we will disassemble in an amateur manner, accessible to any garage master.

For work, we need a 2 mm PVC edge with hot glue applied to it - it is applied with a special roller in the form of a grid.

It can be purchased at furniture stores footage. If the store does not sell the edge with the applied adhesive layer, then it can be applied in furniture workshops for a fee (as a rule, it does not exceed 5 rubles per linear meter).

• In addition to the edge itself, we need a thermal gun (aka an industrial hair dryer),
• as well as an edge router, with a molding curly cutter installed in it with a ball bearing.
• Additional elements are a fabric glove (one is enough) and a felt block.

Let's move on to the methodology itself. It is better to set the hair dryer to medium values ​​\u200b\u200b(about 300-400 degrees Celsius).

We fix the workpiece on the workbench (horizontally - if it is large and vertically in the clamp, if it is small). To begin with, we warm up the tip of the edge tape - it should soften a little and acquire elasticity.

While the glue has not hardened, we apply the heated edge to the end face of the workpiece. We press the attached edge with a felt block tightly to the part for 10-20 seconds until the glue cools.

Then, directing a stream of hot air into the gap between the part and the edge tape, we heat the latter, by 10-15 centimeters in length,

after which we set aside the hair dryer, take a bar and roll the heated tape with sliding movements.

This manipulation is repeated over and over again. At the same time, it is not worth overheating the edge (it should not acquire pronounced plastic properties). If only to a minimal extent - the edge, as it were, begins to reach for the workpiece - then it’s enough to heat, it is necessary to press. This moment comes with experience.

It is important not only not to overheat, but also not to underheat. In the first case, the edge will acquire excessive plasticity and may go in waves. In the second case, it simply does not stick.

Now let's move on to the next stage, which is quite difficult at first - this is the processing or pasting of the corner radius (moreover, it is easier to glue the outer one than the inner one). I described >>.

In this case, the edge must be just overheated so that it is easily molded along the pasted profile.

After warming up, when the edge has softened, we quickly press the edge to the surface, trying to come along the entire corner.

At first, it may not work, that is, you must first practice.

After we have glued the entire edge tape, we proceed to remove the excess, that is, the overhangs. You can cut off the ends with a pruner or simply break it off, after scratching it with a sharp object (I usually use method 1).

Overhangs on the edges are removed with a special edge cutter.

It is rather problematic to do this manually, due to the large thickness of the edge. The cutter cuts off the excess while rounding off the remaining edge.

Excess glue, which is often not removed with a cutter, can be scraped off with a simple metal ruler.

Often, after removing the overhangs, there are prominent places of “non-gluing”.

Personally, I usually get them at the corners. How to be with them? Again, we take the hair dryer and warm up the non-glued area from the outside, trying to blow a stream of air into the gap.

Warming up for 5-6 seconds, put off the hair dryer and firmly press the area with a felt bar to the surface of the part for 20-30 seconds.

As a rule, this is enough to glue the edge and remove the gap.

Now it remains only to polish the milled edge, which has a rough structure.

To do this, we make several vigorous movements along the cut edge of the edge.

At the same time, the felt warms up a little, melts the PVC, which smooths out all the bumps.

And a photo of the finished work (it will be a countertop with a rounded corner).

This technique is used even in small professional workshops when processing radius parts, because large stationary automatic edgers, as a rule, do not have the ability to stick edges on roundings, and not everyone considers purchasing small specialized units cost-effective (at least in a furniture workshop, with whom I work with, this is exactly the case).

Everyone knows a fact that often occurs during edge banding - this is melting PVC edges, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.

There is a problem of wavy formation on the edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, delamination of the edge from the part, 0.4 mm edge roughness, whitish edges and many more problems.

It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case deeper than to write off everything on the quality of the edges.

So, you should first consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage at this stage in detail, we are talking about using only PVC edges.

The process consists of several stages:

gluing

Facing

Overhangs milling

Cycling

Polishing

Bonding of PVC edges.

Regardless of the type of machine, edge bonding is carried out using glue - melt.

The likelihood of marriage at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:

Make the most suitable settings by trial and experiment

Choose a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature

Take into account the parameters of chipboard (moisture, friability)

The edge melts when glued.

If you use a feed rate of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply a more heat-resistant edge, and it must be taken into account that the permissible temperatures declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape, and not to the part. We recommend changing operating temperature glue bath.

After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, the surface roughness appears:

A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the wrong selection of glue - melt.

The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right glue - melt. Bumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of chipboard with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.

It will be possible to correct the problem by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the tuberosity will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.

When gluing, an uneven surface is formed due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:

Such a problem is easily solved. Just move the additional pressure rollers.

Too noticeable seam between the edge and the end of the part.

When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the adhesive for visual merging of the adhesive seam of the edge and laminated chipboard.

The edge is melted on curved parts.

This problem is also worth looking at in terms of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.

So, for example, for manual machines, when the part moves around a fixed adhesive unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.

For equipment with automatic feeding, when the workpiece moves around the gluing unit with constant speed 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive unit is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edgeband.

Milling of overhangs, scraping.

After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.

This problem occurs if the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.

Increase cutter speed and decrease edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.

Chips formed at the edges of the edge.

Chips on the PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.

They may indicate that the speed of rotation of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both at the same time.

Polishing.

In order for the edge of the edge to be well polished, all the remnants of chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel with a separating liquid applied to the surface of the chipboard.

Conclusion:

Based on the above, we recommend that you do not immediately write off bad edge banding for when changing suppliers.

In order to make sure that the edge does not fit, it is necessary to check its use on several modes / machines, check whether the temperature and feed rate are set correctly, take into account the composition of the adhesive and much more.

Of course, the quality of the edges primarily affects the veneering process, based on many years of experience in the supply of edge bands, we recommend that you choose materials based not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.

So, in order not to spoil the product / part at the stage of edge banding, it is necessary:

Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges

Pay attention to how much the importer works in the market

How many suppliers/factories the importer has (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).

We offer to solve your problems at the edge banding stage.

You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the "LUX" edge, save without loss in quality, using the STANDARD PVC edge. ().

We are happy to solve all the problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program / in production, we accept a full refund.

We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edging materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.