How long are hacksaw blades for metal. Hacksaw blade for metal

We give answers to questions about what a hacksaw blade is for metal, how to choose and install it correctly, and how to extend the life of the consumable.

Electric and hand saws have a removable working element - a file, also known as a hacksaw blade. As a rule, it has a length of up to 300 mm, a width of 12-15 mm and a thickness of less than 1 mm. This material provides answers to questions about what a hacksaw blade is, how to choose and install it correctly, and also describes some products that are in demand by consumers.

Blades for hacksaws are a narrow strip, at the ends of which there are two holes for attaching to a tool. There are three main criteria for their classification:

The division into groups according to the first feature occurs like with hacksaws - blades are distinguished for manual (mechanical) and electric (sometimes called machine) tools. The dimensions of the working elements vary. So, for manual ones, canvases 250-300 mm long, 12-25 mm wide, 0.63-1.25 mm thick are used. An example is a domestic-made canvas made of X6VF steel with parameters 1.25x12x300, which will cost the buyer 30 rubles apiece.

The parameters of files for power tools vary from 150 mm in length, to 55 mm in width, from 1.25 to 2.5 mm in thickness. An example is a blade for a reciprocating saw HAMMER RS BL 001, the parameters of which are 150x19x1.25 mm, and the cost is 100 rubles per piece.

Another difference between hand and reciprocating saw blades is the number of holes for fasteners. The first has two, the second has one.

The second classification criterion is the material used to make the canvas. Allocate steel products:

• carbonaceous(the least durable, suitable for non-ferrous or soft metal; marked as HCS); for example, Bosch HCS TF 350 M 408 mm GFZ for 1400 rubles;
• fast cutting(they have the most wear-resistant teeth, but they are fragile and have a high price; HSS marking); Gross HSS 18TPI 300 mm - 160 rubles per pair;
• bimetallic sheets(innovation in the market, replacing analogues; the basis is carbon steel, on top of which a fast-cutting strip is welded, which serves as the basis for the teeth; denoted by BIM); Gross Variozahn 300 mm BIM from 300 rubles per pair.

There are also paintings alloy steel(designation HM), but more often they are used to cut brick, concrete or stone.

The size of the teeth for hacksaws for metal is 2-2.5 mm. This parameter it is considered “small”, since there are products with a larger tooth (for example, for wood files it is 4-6 mm).

International standardization provides for a different principle for dividing canvases. So, the number of teeth per 1 inch of the file is taken into account. This figure is given in the marking before the letters PPI (points per inch - “point per inch”) or TPI (formula “PPI - 1”). The higher the number, the smaller the tooth is represented on this canvas.

When choosing products for a hacksaw, the user does not have to guess for a long time - most well-known saw blades have a tooth pitch of 18 or 24. This is how branded products for construction are designated (for example, Standart 24 TPI 300 mm, Kraft-Flex 18 TPI blade from the manufacturer Kraftool).

The main classification of blades for hacksaws is compiled on the basis of the above criteria. It is important to know that the presence of set teeth is welcome if the user expects comfortable work without pauses and tool breakages. Now about how to properly install a hacksaw blade in a hand or power tool.

Ways to install the canvas

There are two types of fastening system on hand saws:

• threaded clamp;
• lever mechanism.

In the first case, the canvas is stretched between the mounting holes and fixed with a wing nut. In the second, the actions are performed similarly, only the file is put on and removed by means of a special lever, usually located at the edge farthest from the handle.

The blade is installed in such a way that the teeth tilt in the direction opposite to the handle. When the hacksaw is working, the cutting of the metal layer will occur when moving “away from you”. The reverse direction - “towards you” - is an idling, in which the workpiece is not cut. Therefore, efforts during the reverse movement are in vain. In addition, it is so easy to dull the teeth of the blade.

For electric hacksaws, the working body is attached differently. For example, below is the process of replacing the blade on a reciprocating saw Makita JR 3070 CT. For this you need:

• turn the head of the holder counterclockwise at a small angle so that the inner slot allows you to remove the product;
• remove the canvas;
• place the end of the new file into the slot of the holder until a characteristic click is heard.

By the way, the canvases are also divided according to the type of shank (the section that connects to the holder). There are shanks with one stop, two-jaw, universal 1/4, clamping 1/2 and special for Makita saws, having two holes at the end.

The principle of fastening hacksaw blades in reciprocating saws is the same for all devices; manufacturers have thought through the design, made the insertion of the cutting element convenient and facilitated the work of the user.

Rig selection rules

Buying such an insignificant thing as a hacksaw file is a responsible task. So that the user does not make a mistake with the choice, he should listen to some recommendations of experienced craftsmen. More tips are discussed below.

1. There should not be any cracks or signs of corrosion on top of the canvases.
2. Make sure the saw blade is flexible. To do this, it needs to be slightly bent and released. A quality product will instantly restore its original shape.
3. Sawing speed is directly related to the number of teeth per inch. The more of them, the less time it will take for the operation.
4. Among all the files, the one suitable for sawing a particular metal is selected. Preference should be given to red-hot iron or bimetallic products. The former look like stainless steel coated with a layer of nickel, but it has dark teeth. The latter are painted in a certain color (red, yellow) or several shades. The listed canvases are much more durable than black counterparts.
5. The length of the blade corresponds to the length of the hacksaw, whether it is a hand or power tool. In order not to be mistaken, it is important to study the markings that are on both the saw and the hacksaw blade.
6. Do not consider the price of the product as a key factor in the choice. A dozen cheap black files (like the Russian X6VF 1.25x12x300 mm, 77707 at a price of 30 rubles) will become dull and fail while a more expensive analogue works (for example, Stanley 1-20-437 300 mm long for 120 rubles).

Having made your choice and bought a metal unit for a hacksaw, you just need to fix the equipment and start working. It is also recommended to adhere to the rules for the storage and operation of hacksaw files. Timely replacement of used equipment will extend the life of a hand or power tool. If you have experience using these or those files, share your opinion in the comments.

A hacksaw is the most important tool of a real man. And hand saws are considered the most versatile, because they can be used in urban conditions, and in the country, and where there are no power sources. A lot of problems around the house are solved with the help of a hacksaw, which, by the way, does an excellent job with both plastic and wood! Padlock stuck in garage? Has a nut stuck on a bolt over time? Handlebars too wide on a bike? All this can be fixed by buying a hacksaw for metal.

Varieties of hacksaws

It is difficult for the average consumer to understand the whole variety of hacksaws and saws on the market. However, despite this, they are divided into three types, depending on the purpose of the tool:

• Wood saws. This tool is a carpentry hacksaw, which is used for sawing logs, boards, wooden blanks, sheets of chipboard and fiberboard. A hacksaw for wood, as a rule, has a wide beveled hacksaw blade, along the edge of which the cutting part is located. The cut occurs in a straight line, thanks to the teeth set apart to the right and left. And straight teeth are needed to remove chips, which facilitates the passage of the blade.
• Hacksaw for metal. This is a narrow file that has thin teeth. The canvas is attached to the C-frame at both ends, and its tension is adjusted using a special screw. On one side of the frame there is a rubberized or plastic handle for a comfortable grip.
• Hacksaw for concrete. This tool has a design that is similar to a wood saw, but has larger teeth. Some teeth may have tungsten carbide soldering, which allows you to saw foam and sand concrete blocks.

The most important characteristics of hacksaws are the following indicators. At the hacksaws different types the length of the canvas can be 300 - 700 millimeters. Depending on what size of the workpiece will be sawn, and a hacksaw is selected with the appropriate blade along the length.

You need to know the pitch of the teeth, since this indicator determines what thickness and hardness materials the hacksaw blade will handle. For example, teeth with a pitch of 3.5 millimeters are suitable for sawing soft wood, 5 millimeters for sawing hardwoods. Also, hacksaws are two- and three-sided to adjust the sharpness of the cutting part.

The design of a hacksaw for metal

The most common and simplest device for working with metal, of course, is a special hacksaw for metal, which outwardly differs from a hacksaw for wood. A hacksaw is often used in construction and repair work, when it is necessary to accurately and accurately cut not very large wooden and metal blanks.

The design of hacksaws for metal is quite simple: a narrow hacksaw blade is stretched between the two ends of a metal U-shaped bracket. The working part of such a saw is the thinnest blade with teeth, and it is necessary to work with such a tool with only two hands. The web fastening system can be of two types: a threaded clamp - in this case, the web is stretched and then fixed with a wing nut, a lever mechanism - when the web is installed and removed using a special lever.

Hacksaws, which use the second method of installing and stretching the blade, of course, are more expensive than the first option because of their versatility, as well as the speed of installing and removing the blade. The main advantage of hacksaws is that, unlike power tools, you can work in the field with a hacksaw, because you do not need an electrical network. Among other advantages of hacksaws for metal are ease of operation, maintenance and low weight.

There are quite a few hacksaw blades on sale a large number of. And, of course, the cost of paintings is also different. The price of a hacksaw for metal depends on the type of blade and the number of teeth per inch (bi-metal or with hardened teeth). Bimetallic blades rarely break, more flexible and more expensive than hardened blades.

Choosing a hacksaw

Any tool, be it a hacksaw for wood or metal, you need to be able to choose. Remember that you can count not only on the recommendations of sellers, but also on your own strength. Avoid buying budget tool options and the most expensive models when you are not sure why a given tool is so expensive.

This tool should be practical so that when making a move in any direction and at different angles, you can easily perform all actions, for example, cut metal not only with standard movements, but also completely vice versa. Choose the size of the machine yourself: for standard blades or for universal functions, which will help you easily install blades of any size into a hacksaw.

When buying, first look at the frame of a hacksaw for metal. She may be ordinary; made of composite heavy-duty materials, which is distinguished by a long service life and the ability to cut even alloys of increased hardness; and with the ability to change the angle of inclination of the toothed blade to work with hard-to-reach places.

Pay close attention to the handle of a hacksaw for metal, because you will have to hold on to it constantly when working. The handle should be comfortable, lie perfectly in the hand, be equipped with special finger rests. The handle should have a minimum of hollow plastic parts, because such a handle a real man breaks on the first try.

Be sure to pick up the tool, it should not be loose and flimsy. In a hacksaw for metal, everything should be as strong as possible. Not only the integrity of the tool will depend on this, but also the ability to hold the toothed blade in the position that you need, and not the tool.

The location of the lamb for stretching the hacksaw blade at the opposite end from the handle is considered a classic, but this, on the other hand, is also a problem. As a rule, with a stretched canvas, it is very difficult to turn this lamb without improvised means. That's why the best option there will be a lever mechanism for tensioning the toothed web.

Choosing a hacksaw blade

When choosing a hacksaw for metal, special attention should be paid to the toothed blade, because the smallest flaws can negatively affect the quality of work in the future. The canvas should not have cracks and signs of corrosion, and also be smooth. When checking, you need to bend the canvas and release it - it should instantly restore its original shape.

It should be noted that blades exist with 32, 24, 18 teeth per inch. The greater the number of teeth on the blade, the faster and better to cut the material and vice versa. It is desirable that the hacksaw has the ability to install at an angle of 90 degrees of the blade in order to cut dimensional sheet materials. If this is not possible, then the cutting depth is limited by the height of the hacksaw itself. There are models in which the web fastenings are made at an angle of 45 degrees.

The fabric can be made from various materials, and you need to choose it based on what kind of alloys you will be sawing. It is better to choose bimetal or red-hot canvas. The black canvas, as a rule, is of very poor quality and is only enough for a few movements of the hacksaw, then the teeth begin to crumble, potholes appear, and it is no longer possible to work with such a canvas.

The hardened blade looks like nickel-plated stainless steel with dark teeth. Exactly dark color and talks about their hardening. Bi-metal blades for hacksaws are painted in some color (yellow, red, etc.) or even bi-colored. Such canvases will last much longer than budget black ones. After that, it remains only to make sure that the length of the blade corresponds to the length of the hacksaw, this is indicated both on the tool and on the blade.

Using a hacksaw

To handle a hacksaw for metal, no special skills are required, the principle of operation is quite similar to the operation of a hacksaw for wood. One of the main tasks is the timely change of the blade, while choosing a specific type of blade and tooth pitch.

Application environment

In such a hacksaw, the blade has rather small teeth, respectively, this allows you to work not only with metal, but also with many other materials. A hacksaw for metal can cut foam, plastic, PVC, chipboard, plexiglass, ceramics, laminate and even wood. In this case, the processed edges of the material are quite even. That is why such a tool is considered the most versatile. The cost of a hacksaw for metal, of course, is higher than the price of a similar model for wood.

It must be said that cutting metal with a hacksaw is not very easy. The most important thing is to ensure that the saw moves back and forth smoothly. The canvas should not wag from side to side, but should bend. After some time of operation, this metal tool needs to change the blade. Friction with the pointed end part of the tool provokes blunting, and this in turn leads to poor quality applications in the future. Sharpening a hacksaw for metal will not work.

sawing process

Before you work with a hacksaw for metal, you need to figure out how to fix the canvas. If the blade is single sided, the teeth should point down and forward from the handle. To install the canvas, you need to release the tension screw, remove the old canvas from the pins, put on the new one and tighten it so that the canvas rang like a string from the click of a finger nail. In this case, the main thing is not to overdo it so that it does not break. By experimenting, you can find the optimal tension.

Take before work right hand for the handle if you are right-handed, (left if you are left-handed), the other - for the vertical edge opposite the handle. Place the fabric on the cutting line. Direct it strictly in the direction of the cut line. Make the angle of inclination of the tool small.

The hacksaw blade should practically lie on the part, as a rule, at an angle of 30-45 degrees, so that there is less noise, vibration, and the cut line is smoother. Cutting across the metal with a right angle is worth it only in emergency cases, for example, when turning the cutting line. The draft angle should be smaller, the smoother you want the cut line to be.

It is recommended to make the first movements with little effort so that the blade cuts into the metal and does not slip from the cutting line to the sides. Make progressively smooth movements, press the tool against the part more firmly when moving forward, loosen the pressure when returning to original state. When the canvas clings to the metal, you can work with all your might.

Make the maximum range of motion, from edge to edge of the canvas, without hitting the arc of the hacksaw on the metal on the part. You should not "stagnate", as the canvas will quickly be erased in one area, and you will be forced to throw it away. Keep the arc of the hacksaw straight, not allowing it to bow to the sides. The direction of cutting must match the surface of the hacksaw arc.

Remember that the blade can easily break when the tool is jerked to the side. The properties of the metal of the web are such that it perfectly holds longitudinal tensile forces, but is very brittle in bending.

Cut along a curved line

A hacksaw for metal is a fairly practical tool, as it allows you to cut along almost any curved line. The cut line must first be marked with something - a marker, a pencil, scratched with a nail so that it is noticeable during work. To cut the material along an arc, without crossing the translational movements of the tool, it is necessary to align it perpendicular to the end of the part and gradually smoothly turn the arc so that the blade moves along the intended line.

It is recommended to turn the canvas smoothly and gently, otherwise it may break. Turns for a hacksaw blade are extreme. If you need to make a sharp turn, for example, by 90 degrees, you should “stagnate”, continue sawing and slowly turn the arc of the tool, periodically stepping back, using the side of the material that is external to the part to turn the hacksaw blade.

For cutting inner corner, you must first drill a straight line with a thin drill that has a length slightly greater than the width of the web, then thread the web into such a groove and then cut further.

Broken cloth tool

You remember that excellent steel is used to make hacksaw blades, so even the smallest piece can become the starting material for various cutting tools. The options we give do not exhaust the variety of devices that you can get from broken hacksaws.

First you need to make handles for a set of cutters. Use, for example, a tube with a diameter of about 20 - 25 millimeters from any non-ferrous metal. Such a product is convenient in that its end can be easily converted into a cutter holder. To obtain a holder, it is necessary to grind off one side with a file until a longitudinal groove is formed, and then flatten this end by placing a plate slightly thicker than a hacksaw blade into it.

After that, it remains to drill a hole for the tightening screw. A similar hole should be present at the end of each fragment of a hacksaw, previously released on fire, for this, heat it up to redness and let it cool in air. Now you can start forming cutters.

Make a saw blade from the longest piece, for which you just need to sharpen the toothless edge. From the wreckage, a shorter set of cutters will be obtained for a wide variety of jobs. For example, for cutting cardboard, leather, rubber, a joint knife is considered indispensable, the blade of which must be sharpened obliquely and only on one side. Cutters for working with wood are close to it, but differ in the shape of sharpening.

You get a small chisel if you sharpen the end edges of the fragment. With the help of a grindstone, it will be easy to give the canvas a hook-shaped shape to get a claw for cutting textolite, plexiglass, getinaks and other hard sheet material. And if such a claw is sharpened from the inside, the cutter can be used for butchering electric cable, removing plastic or rubber insulation from wires.

If you take wooden lath, drive a nail at one end, and at the other, make a groove under the joint already known to you, fixing it with a screw, you will end up with a compass knife, which will be very convenient to cut holes of different diameters and circular blanks, you just need to change the location of the nail. An unfinished piece of a file, which is fixed in a cycle, can facilitate the cleaning of plastic, non-ferrous metal, wood and putty surfaces, as well as the removal of rust.

Thus, the simplest and most common way to work with metal is to use a hacksaw. This tool, if used correctly, will serve you for a long time. The main thing when working is to change blades in time, choosing the appropriate tooth pitch and type of blade. Also, in no case do not throw away old hacksaw blades and their fragments. They can find a second life and serve as a raw material for the manufacture of many tools.

Hacksaw for metal is designed for cutting sheets of round, profile and strip metal. The hacksaw consists of hacksaw blade for metal and frames (machine). At one end of the machine there is a stationary head with a shank and a handle, at the other end there is a tension screw, a movable head and a nut for tensioning the blade. The canvas is inserted into the slots in the heads and attached with pins.

The frames are made sliding, which allows you to fix canvases of different lengths. To move the hacksaw apart, the knees are bent until the rivet leaves the cutout. The rivet is guided into another cutout and the knees straighten out. Machine with mobile holder also includes a square with a handle, along which the holder is fixed and moved.

Description of the canvas

Steel narrow thin plate with two holes and teeth on one edge. It is manual and machine depending on the purpose. For the manufacture of these elements, the following steels are used:

1. U10A;
2. P9;
3. X 6VF.

The hardness of the material should be HRC 61-64. They are inserted into the frame with teeth forward. Almost always used for hand saws 250-300 mm long, 0.65 and 0.8 mm thick, 13 and 16 mm high. The performance of the blade differs depending on the operating conditions of the cutter, which explains the difference in angle values.

When cutting a wide metal workpiece, long cuts can be made: each tooth removes chips, which should fill the chip space until the tip of the tooth leaves the cut. The amount of space depends on the pitch S of the tooth, front (Y) and back (A) angles. Depending on the hardness of the workpiece being processed rake angle webs can be zero, negative or positive. The cutting efficiency of a hacksaw with a blade with a zero angle is lower compared to one whose angle is greater than 0 °. For cutting materials harder, elements with a large angle of sharpening of the teeth are used (they are more wear-resistant). For cutting soft materials this figure should be less.

Number of teeth

In most cases, blades with a pitch of 1.3–1.6 mm are used for cutting metals; with a length of 25 mm, there will be 17–20 teeth with this. The thicker the material being processed, the larger the teeth should be, and vice versa. For different metals, blades with the following number of teeth are required:

1. Soft metals - 16;
2. Hardened steel of medium hardness - 19;,
3. Cast iron, tool steel - 22;
4. Flat, angle and solid steel - 22.

Hacksaw 300 mm

In the process of work, two or three teeth should be involved. In order to avoid jamming of the web in the metal, the teeth are bred. The wiring is performed so that the width of the cut made by the hacksaw is slightly larger than the thickness of the canvas. This prevents jamming in the section of the web and facilitates work.

For blades with a pitch of 0.8 mm (1 mm is acceptable), the setting of the teeth should be wavy, that is, every two adjacent teeth are bent in opposite directions approximately 0.25-0.6 mm. The working element with a step of more than 0.8 is spread along the tooth (corrugated divorce), while two or three teeth are retracted to the left and right. With an average step, one tooth is retracted to the left, the second is not retracted, the third is retracted to the right. With a large step, one tooth is retracted to the right, and the other to the left. Appropriate wiring on the tooth with a step of 1.6 and 1.25 mm. The wiring should be completed at a distance of no more than 30 mm from the end.

Preparatory stage

First, the material to be processed is firmly fixed in a vice. And it should be fixed so that it is convenient for the worker to work. Further, in accordance with the hardness, shape and dimensions of the cut workpiece, a hacksaw blade is selected. If the rafters are long, it should be with a large tooth pitch, if short - with a small one.

The hacksaw is installed in the slot of the head so that the teeth are not directed towards the handle. The end of the web is inserted into the fixed head and secured with pin bookmarks, then the second end of the web is placed in the slot of the pin, which is fixed with a pin. The blade is tensioned by hand (do not use a vice or pliers) by turning the wing nut. The hacksaw should be kept away from the face.

With a slight skew, the canvas, stretched tightly, and with significant pressure, slightly stretched, lead to a kink, which is why a break is possible. The degree of tension is checked by pressing the finger from the side: if there is no deflection, the tension is sufficient.

cutting process

There are two steps in the cutting process:

1. Worker - the tool moves forward from the worker.
2. Idle - the hacksaw moves to the worker.

When idling, the tool is not pressed, as a result, the teeth only slide. During the working stroke, light pressure is provided with both hands, and the hacksaw moves in a straight line.

Operating rules

During cutting, one must stand firmly, straight and free in front of the vise, half-turned to the axis of the workpiece being processed or to the vise jaws. The left leg is slightly pushed forward approximately along the line of the workpiece, and the body rests on it. Feet should be placed so that they form 60-70 ° (with the distance between the heels).

The correct posture of the worker can be considered when the right hand with the tool, set to its initial position and bent at the elbow, forms right angle between elbow and shoulder. The handle is grasped with the right hand so that the handle rests on the palm. It is wrapped around with four fingers, and the thumb is superimposed on top along the handle.

The fingers of the left hand wrap around the movable head of the hacksaw and the nut. During the cutting process, strict coordination of efforts is observed, that is, the correct increase in pressure. The movement of the tool must be horizontal. They press it with both hands, but with the left hand a little effort is made, and the right hand reciprocates mainly.

1. Short blanks are cut along the widest side. When processing corner, channel and tee profiles, it is better to change the position of the workpiece, and not to cut along the narrow side.
2. Cutting should be carried out smoothly and slowly, no more than 40-60 double moves are made within a minute.
3. The entire canvas must be involved.

The greatest difficulty for beginners is the wobbling of the work item. If this trouble occurs, you should check the condition of the fasteners - wobbling may indicate insufficient tightening of the "lamb". Unlike carpentry tools, ours cannot be sharpened on a new one, it needs to be changed.

When you need to make a cut in a hard-to-reach place, it is better to use a hacksaw handle for metal.

Today there are a huge number of hacksaws for metal. All of them differ in their appearance, characteristics, etc. Also, these tools are divided into professional and home. The most significant difference between these two types will be the metal sheet.

Dimensions

Currently, the standard length for a web is 300 mm. There are also hacksaws, in which this figure is 150 mm. Shorter options are used only in cases where a large hacksaw is not suitable precisely because of its size, or the master needs to perform very delicate work.

If we talk about the teeth of the blade for metal, then they are very small. This choice is due to the fact that it is small teeth that best cope with the task of cutting metal products. The masters of working with this tool pay attention to the fact that the canvas is essential element, but it is worth paying due attention to the handle of the tool. For some types, it is made very unsuccessfully, and it will be inconvenient to work with such a device, even if the metal sheet meets all the qualities.

Tool Differences

As mentioned earlier, saws are conditionally divided into professional and home. The main advantage of a professional tool is that its design is more rigid, and also makes it possible to work at an angle of 90 and 55 degrees. Home appliances, on the other hand, are most often more flimsy, and during work they are constantly “stormed”. In this case, even a high-quality metal sheet does not guarantee high-quality cut. However, here it is necessary to build on the frequency of using this tool. Home saws are much cheaper, and you should buy them only if the hacksaw is rarely used. If you use this tool quite often, then you should not save.

It is worth mentioning a separate one - a hacksaw-handle. The main difference between this tool and a conventional hacksaw is that it is designed to work with a broken hacksaw blade for metal.

Product design

The design of this tool is almost the same for all models. The saw is a C-shaped arc, between the lower edges of which the blade is fixed or stretched. The working and main part of this tool is the same hacksaw blade for metal, which has many small teeth.

The handle - one of the three main parts of the device, plays a significant role in terms of ease of use of the tool when long work. The most successful in terms of performance and comfort of use are two-component composite handles with rubber inserts.

The frame of this tool is an element that is designed to fasten a blade for a hacksaw for metal. In the production of the frame can be used different materials, however, it depends on them for what type of work the saw will be used. For example, if you need to cut high strength metals, then it is best that the frame is made of high strength composite materials.

It is important to note that the design of the frame largely determines the working conditions. If it is necessary to cut in hard-to-reach places, then it is best to use a frame with adjustable blade angle or simply purchase more short version fixtures.

canvas

A hacksaw blade is a thin strip made of hardened steel. Despite the fact that this is the only metal part in the design of the saw, it is also the most vulnerable to breakage, since the thickness of the product is very small. For this reason, when working with this tool, it is very important to monitor your actions. Careless and careless handling will lead to a quick breakage of a fragile structural element.

teeth

By itself, the steel sheet for metal, the photo of which is presented below, cannot cut other metal parts.

The implementation of this process becomes possible due to the application of small wedge-shaped teeth to the edge of the web. It is very important to pay attention to the hardening of these teeth when choosing a tool. Proper selection will lead to the fact that the service life will increase significantly, as well as the efficiency of cutting the necessary parts. Currently, it is customary to use blades with fine teeth for cutting hard metal products, and large teeth are intended for working with soft parts. The canvases themselves can be made of different types of steel, but it is best to opt for bimetallic ones. If these could not be found, then you can pay attention to the red-hot canvases. These saw elements are made of nickel-plated stainless steel with teeth. It is worth noting that the canvas should be attached in such a way that the teeth go in the opposite direction from the handle.

Canvas selection

The quality of the blade is determined by its teeth. The first selection criterion is the shape of the cutting elements, which can vary depending on the inclination of the edge piece.

The second criterion for choosing a blade is the pitch of the teeth. By this parameter, you can determine what material hardness it is suitable for cutting, as well as choose the maximum possible thickness of the product that can be sawn. This indicator is measured by the number of teeth per inch of the web. It is also important to note that the thickness of the web for metal plays an important role here. For example, on professional 300 mm hacksaws, the thickness will be 0.63 - 1.25 mm. The thickness of the blade for electric saws with a length of 150 mm is from 1.25 to 2.5 mm.

It should also be said that the number of teeth per inch of the blade depends on the thickness and material of the workpiece that will be sawn. For example, when sawing an aluminum workpiece with a thickness of more than 5 mm, it is necessary that the number of teeth per inch be 18. If the thickness is from 2 to 5 mm, then the number of teeth can vary from 18 to 24. When the workpiece is less than 2 mm thick, the number of teeth should be between 24 and 32.

GOST sheets for metal

GOST 6645-86 is a state standard that establishes requirements for the type, size, quality of metal sheets, etc.

This document sets out the rules for the technical production of this product. In particular, steel grades are prescribed in this GOST, from which it is necessary to make types of canvas. For example, type 1 must be made from a steel strip that meets all the requirements of GOST 23522-79. Type 2 hacksaw blade must be made of high speed steel, which is determined in accordance with GOST 19265-73. The document also states that the canvases must be subjected to heat treatment. An acceptable canvas is when the surface is free of cracks, captivity, scale or corrosion.

A hacksaw blade is one of those parts that quickly become unusable and require frequent replacement. However, knowing the intricacies of choosing a product, you can ensure long and high-quality work!

Universal saw - hacksaws for all occasions

Even an ordinary, at first glance, hacksaw can cause confusion in the average consumer, on the shelves he will find many tools that differ from each other! To simplify the choice, we list the three main types of tools, into which, depending on the purpose, they are divided:

1. Hacksaws - a narrow saw with thin teeth. It has a characteristic recognizable appearance, mainly a C-shaped or U-shaped frame, between the ends of which the canvas is tightly attached. Older models of hacksaws often have a handle that runs parallel to the blade, modern products are equipped with a much more ergonomic "pistol" handle.
2. – classic carpentry tool, which serves for sawing wooden building materials, as well as plywood sheets. As a rule, carpentry saws have a wide beveled working part, on the edge of which are located cutting teeth. The teeth are set alternately to the left and right to make cutting easier. At the same time, straight teeth in some models help to remove chips from the cutting line.
3. A hacksaw for concrete looks similar to a carpenter's saw, with the difference that the first tool has larger teeth. Quite often, they have soldering of hard-alloy metals, thanks to which this tool can cut foam blocks and sand-concrete structures.

The quality of the tool is determined by the following indicators:

• Blade length - depending on the size of the workpiece, the appropriate tool is also selected. On average, the length of the working part ranges from 300-700 mm.
• Tooth pitch - this indicator determines the thickness and hardness of materials that the tool can handle. For example, a pitch of 3.5 mm is suitable for sawing wooden materials from soft rocks, five-millimeter hacksaws work with hard rocks.

Hacksaw for metal - we cut steel in slippers!

With the advent of hacksaws for metal, work with various metal products it has become much easier - even at home, in your garage or workshop, you can saw off the desired piece of reinforcement or thick wire. And even the appearance of mechanical analogues did not affect the popularity hand tool: firstly, the cost is affordable for almost any master, secondly, high accuracy is achieved in the process of work, thirdly, the tool is almost impossible to break, and fourthly, the independence of the product from the mains makes it indispensable in the field.

Modern hacksaws differ not only in their "pistol grip" - manufacturers come up with and improve systems for fastening the blade. The threaded clamp, which is present in all older models, is gradually being replaced by a lever mechanism, thanks to which the installation of the web is many times faster. True, they are more expensive than hacksaws with a lamb.

However, design features affect by and large only for the convenience of tool maintenance, the quality of the cut and the speed of the work depend, first of all, on the replaceable hacksaw blades. There are plenty of them on sale, you can find a product for any wallet and any purpose. The cost of blades depends on the alloy from which they are made and the number of teeth per inch. Basically, there are hardened steel parts and bimetallic products. The disadvantage of hardened steel is its brittleness, therefore, although the products are cheaper, they break more often, while bimetallic ones boast good flexibility and hardness, which is why they are more expensive.

The choice of a hacksaw for metal - do not overpay!

Even to the choice of such a simple tool, like a hacksaw, should be approached by the knowledgeable. Remember that the task of the seller is to sell the most expensive instrument, the possibilities of which you will use hardly 10%. Use the rule of the golden mean - avoid completely budget models and don't buy the most expensive ones. The tool must be practical, provide the ability to work at different angles and with different canvases.

The popularity of some models is due to the ability to work with canvases of any length, and this is really a very good move. Also pay attention to the ability to change the angle of the blade in the frame itself - this feature allows you to work with metals even in hard-to-reach places. Take the tool in your hands, grab the handle with your palm. The palm should completely cover the handle, while the fingers should not interfere with each other and should not rest on the details. Avoid hollow handles - if you squeeze a little, you will break the tool. The product should not be loose, all details are adjusted and create a feeling of reliability.

Hacksaw blade - a choice based on knowledge!

When buying a canvas, pay attention, first of all, to its appearance- even the smallest flaws can affect his work. Avoid canvases with traces of corrosion, cracks, roughness. An ideal canvas should be smooth, clean, with even teeth, and when folded, it should instantly restore its original shape. The more teeth per inch, the faster you can cut the part. So, there are canvases with 18 and 24 teeth per inch, most often they are bought for the home, but 32 teeth per inch is the lot of professionals.

Avoid buying black products - these are enough for several visits, then crumbled teeth make the job impossible. Hardened products, although not flexible, are much more convenient to work with. In appearance, they look like a nickel-plated strip of stainless steel metal with dark teeth - it is the color of the teeth that is the easiest way to guess about their hardening. Bimetallic canvases are usually painted in some colors, and although they are more expensive, they will last much longer. By choosing suitable material, make sure that the length of the product and the length of the hacksaw match.

Using a tool - patience and work will grind everything!

A hacksaw for metal does not require any special skills to operate. You only have to monitor the condition of the canvas and change it in a timely manner. By the way, due to the small teeth, the tool is suitable for working not only with metal, it will also show itself perfectly in plastic, chipboard, PVC, laminate, and even ceramics and plexiglass. In this case, the edges of the cut will turn out to be quite even.

The biggest difficulty that beginners face in the process of cutting metal and other materials with a hacksaw is the waving of the blade from side to side. If this happens, check the condition of the fasteners - wobble may indicate that the lamb is not tightened enough. By the way, you should not rely on the effort of your hands alone - use at least pliers to increase the pressure. Unlike a carpenter's saw, it will not work to sharpen the blade after it has become blunt, you will only have to replace it with a new one.

You need to fasten the canvas with the teeth down and forward from the handle. It is necessary to stretch the canvas during its change in such a way that from the slightest blow it rang like a string. See, don't overdo it!

You can find the optimal tension only by experience. The hacksaw blade should lie on the part when working. You need to work at an angle of up to 45 ° - so you get less vibration and noise, and the cut will be even. During the first movements, the canvas should not be pressed - extra force is useless here, the canvas will only begin to slide in different directions. Increase the pressure while moving forward, when you return the saw to its original state, do not use any pressure at all. And when the canvas cuts a good edge, you can work with all your might.