Step by step instructions for laying tiles on the floor. How to lay tiles on the floor correctly: a practical master class Laying square tiles on the floor

Most often, laying tiles on the floor is trusted by professional tilers and they do it for a reason. After all, the durability and beauty of the coating greatly depends on the quality of laying, and the process of work itself is very complicated. However, even a beginner can lay an even tile on a fairly even base with his own hands and according to the standard “seam-to-seam” pattern. The main thing is to choose the right mounting solutions and strictly follow the technology. Our step-by-step instruction with photos and a selection of useful videos. This tile laying theory will also be useful to those who need to control and accept the work of tilers.

Materials, tools and equipment

Here is a list of the materials and tools you will need during the laying, cutting and grouting process. floor tiles.

Tools and equipment:

• Roulette, metal ruler and corner;
• Construction pencil for marking;
• Building level and rule;
• Construction mixer or drill with a stirrer attachment;
• Tile cutter or electric tile cutter;
• Core or glass cutter (needed for curvilinear cutting of tiles);
• Tile cutters (for cutting curved);
• File (for grinding cut edges);
• Putty knife;
• Notched trowel (6-8 mm);
• Master OK;
• Rubber spatula for grouting;
• Rubber mallet;
• A bucket with a sponge and a rag;
• Knee pads and household gloves.

materials

In addition to the tile itself with a 10% margin, you will need:

• Tile adhesive corresponding to the base material (for concrete, wood, old tiles, etc.), as well as the characteristics of the tile itself;
• Crosses of the desired size;
• Grout of the desired color;
• Primer.

Step 1. Preparing the base

First you need to prepare the base so that it is even, clean and dry. It is preferable to lay tiles on concrete screed, but if desired, you can put it on old tiles or wood, chipboard (or other similar material). However, keep in mind that when installing tiles on the old cladding, the height of the final floor will increase.

To lay tiles on a concrete screed you need: remove possible roughness with a scraper, vacuum the floor, wash with an alkaline cleaner, then cover with a coat of primer (preferably) and wait 2-4 hours until the floor is completely dry. Further, if the concrete base is uneven (deviations of more than 5 mm per 2 linear meters), then it must be filled with some kind of leveling compound and wait for it to dry.

To put a tile on an old tile you need:

• To improve the adhesion of the old tile with glue, it is passed along with sandpaper or a grinder;
• Then the coating is vacuumed and washed, if necessary treated with a primer (drying in 2-4 hours is required) and covered with a self-leveling mixture.

Attention! When laying tiles on the underfloor heating system, turn off the heating 1-2 days before starting work. You can turn on the heating or floor heating only 2-3 days after grouting. For laying ceramic tiles on a “warm floor”, you need to use an adhesive with a high content of elastic polymers, which will prevent thermal deformation of the base.

Step 2. Drawing the Markup

Once the floor is dry, you can start drawing markings. There are many ways to draw markup, but they all have the same goal:

• The floor must be marked so that, firstly, the cut tiles are placed out of sight; and secondly, cuttings were required as little as possible. Ideally, tiles should be cut by a third or a maximum of half.

So, for example, the markup can be built in such a way that whole tiles are placed at the entrance, along the axes of the window opening, or, say, at the threshold balcony door. In our article, we will consider one of the most popular ways of laying tiles on the floor - along two perpendicular axes from the center of the doorway.

So, draw a line from the center of the threshold to the center of the opposite wall with a cord or laser level. Next, along this line, begin laying a row of dry cross tiles. After laying the last whole tile, draw a line along its outer edge so that you get two strictly perpendicular vertical lines as in the diagram below. It is advisable to use a square to make sure that the corners are straight at 90 degrees.

In the corner of the perpendicular, we will glue the first tile, and from it we will lay the first row (along the horizontal line).

Step 3. Laying the first tile and the first row

Dilute the adhesive in a bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions, apply it with a spatula to one of the corners of the intersection and at the same time to the area of ​​​​several tiles of the future first row, slightly going beyond it. Then smooth the adhesive with a notched trowel, keeping it at a 60 degree angle. Try to always keep the "comb" at the same angle so that the glue is the same thickness.

Attention! If the tile is larger than 30×30 cm or 20×30 cm, then the adhesive must also be applied to the tile itself in a thin layer (apply the adhesive to the tile and immediately remove it almost completely with the same spatula). For very large sizes, the layer of adhesive on the tile can be thicker and thinned out with a notched trowel as shown in the photo below.

Then, in the same way, you should glue the second tile and level it with the first one using a mallet and a rule. Make sure the tiles are level by placing a spirit level directly on two tiles at once as shown in the photo below.

Check the height of each laid tile with the previous one. If necessary, remove excess or, conversely, add glue

Only when both tiles are aligned, insert crosses into the corners of the tiles and into the seam.

Now continue gluing the tiles in the same way until the entire first row is complete. Walk along it again with the rule and check the evenness with a level.

A few rules and useful styling tips

• The subfloor and tiles must always be dry.
• Try to apply the adhesive to no more than 1 linear meter of facing area at a time.
• Glue that has stood for more than 30-40 minutes becomes unsuitable for work (with the exception of adhesives from some manufacturers). Therefore, try to knead the glue a little at a time.
• To prevent the glue from drying to the comb, constantly soak it in water.
• The crosses must be removed before the glue dries.
• Lean your knees on laid tile not desirable, as this may disturb its flatness.
• Tiles should be taken from different boxes, so a slight difference in tone will be invisible. Before starting work, be sure to check that the tone indicated on all boxes matches.
• On the back of the tile there is always the manufacturer's logo, by which you can understand where the tile has the top and where the bottom. Sometimes tiles have a special masonry orientation marker, which, for convenience, can be additionally marked on the end of the tile with a pencil.
• Have time to remove excess glue before it dries. It is best to remove it from the surface of the tile with a cloth moistened with solvent.

Alternative way of marking and laying the first row

Don't want to bother with markup? Then act the old fashioned way - start laying tiles from the most visible corner. If you are laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen, then you can start laying from the corner of the wall opposite the headset, then a row of cut tiles falls under it.

More useful information on marking and laying tiles on the floor with your own hands can be found in this video.

Step 4. Laying the remaining rows, cutting tiles

Hooray, the first row is ready and now, guided by it, we can lay the second row of cut tiles (see the figure below), and then all the rest.

• Attention! The first row is made up of only whole tiles, the cut tiles are placed later (in the diagram, the "cut" row is indicated as row 2).

How to cut the last floor tile adjacent to the wall? First of all, you need to determine the line of its cutting: put it on the penultimate tile already glued, put another tile on it and move it to the wall, but not reaching the wall at a distance of one seam. Along the outer edge of this tile, draw a line on the underlying tile. This line is the cutting line.

You can cut the tile in different ways and devices. Ideally, you should use a manual tile cutter or electric tile cutter(see photo above), if there is no such tool, then use a grinder. However, if the floor tiles are ceramic and not very thick (up to 9 mm), then you can apply the old construction trick and cut it ... with a regular glass cutter, as shown in this video.

How to cut tiles curved? Apply masking tape to the tile you are cutting to prevent the decorative layer from chipping. Then, with a pencil, mark a rounded cut line, say under the pipe. Next, drill a few holes along the marked rounded line with a carbide drill bit (also suitable for porcelain tiles). And finally, with the help of wire cutters, pliers and special tile tongs, carefully break off the unnecessary part. Sand the cut with a file.

When you have covered the entire floor, make sure all crosses are removed and leave the flooring to dry for 24 hours.

How to cut the floor tiles with an L-shaped grinder, for example, under the protrusion of the ventilation duct, you can learn from this video.

Step 5. Grouting

After 24 hours, you can start grouting. To do this, first lightly wet the joints with a spray bottle or just a wet rag to improve the grip of the grout, and then dilute the grout.

Holding the rubber trowel at an angle, apply the joint compound to about 1 sq. meter of the floor and distribute it so that all the seams are completely filled. But be careful not to force the grout into the seams too hard.

After 15-30 minutes, remove excess grout with a damp sponge. In the same way, continue to grout the seams on other areas of the floor, with the exception of the joints along the walls. One hour after grouting the entire surface of the floor, it can be washed clean with water or mild detergents.

After a week, the seams can be additionally coated with sealant.

Attention! Walking on a freshly laid tiled floor is not recommended for the first 2-3 days, ideally 7 days.

Ceramic tiles are the most successful solution for flooring in the so-called wet area, in other words, in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet, because there the probability of water getting onto the decorative coating is quite high. In order to competently do the laying of tiles on the floor in an apartment or a private house with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the construction technology of installation, as well as learn the professional secrets of experienced craftsmen.

The first thing the owners of the renovated premises face is the purchase of decorative finishing materials(facing, grouting) and related products. As for the design of the tile, here everyone relies on their own taste, but its purpose must be clarified, otherwise you risk acquiring material that can be laid exclusively on the walls, despite the fact that you need floor tiles. The main differences between these two varieties of ceramic tiles are:

• thickness;
• coating texture;
• strength.

Laying tiles on the floor

Please note that products that are laid on the floor are provided with a rough surface in order to avoid injury when wet feet come into contact with the floor due to slipping. We also advise you to purchase the required amount of cladding at a time from one product batch, otherwise you may encounter a difference in shade, and this will negatively affect the decorative effect.

The grout for the joints is selected according to the same principle. Currently, designers offer a lot of processing options. ceramic coating where the grout does not have to match the tone of the cladding - it can be contrasting.

Do not forget about a small supply of tiles, because in the process of work a marriage may be found or several samples will crack during cutting, which often happens even among experienced craftsmen, not to mention those who carry out repairs with their own hands.

Preparing the floor for finishing

The quality of the work performed directly depends on the condition of the base, which means that the floor must be flat and free of different kind pollution. Since the base in the kitchen or toilet can be made of various building materials, we suggest considering each option separately.

Cement strainer

Laying tiles on cement screed

In most cases, in a new building, the laying of ceramic cladding is carried out on a concrete screed, and here the main thing is to withstand the time after pouring it until the moment when it is possible to lay tiles, which will take at least 30 days. This period is quite enough for the complete setting and hardening of the cement-sand mixture.

Do not forget that mortar hardeners create a strong film on the floor, which reduces the degree of adhesion of the substrate to the cladding. It is also necessary to know that new house gives technological shrinkage, and the bearing bases can become covered with cracks.

To avoid trouble when facing surfaces with your own hands, it is advisable to organize a plastic layer between the floor and the decorative material, then both the tile and the grout will serve you for decades. Are you planning to put decorative cladding in a toilet or shower room in an old house, and the base is cracked from time to time? We will have to eliminate all existing defects with the help of special repair compounds. Any specialist will tell you with confidence that it is best to lay ceramic products on a concrete base, the main thing is not to forget to prime the subfloor.

Wooden floors

Plywood flooring on wooden floor

It is very rare to find perfectly even wooden flooring, so in most cases you will have to put plywood sheets or OSB boards on top of it with your own hands. Ideally, the thickness of the pressed chipboard or plywood substrate should be at least 12 mm, as it must safely withstand the pressure of a massive tile without deforming.

In bathrooms and toilets, it is better to give preference to elastic linings, because the tree is subject to intense swelling in a humid environment, which may cause the lining on the floor to crack.

old tiles

Removing old tiles

When starting to install a floor covering, you often have to face the problem when it is not possible to remove the old tile without significant damage to the base, then you will have to dismantle it and refill the screed, filling all the voids and irregularities with fresh mortar. Unfortunately, this process will take a lot of time, and this is not suitable for everyone.

You can also solve this problem in another way, namely, by sanding the surface (the grout must be carefully removed) until a rough texture forms.

Required Tool

When planning to put decorative tiled material in the toilet or in the kitchen with your own hands, you need to prepare in advance necessary fixtures, with the help of which the main process is carried out and grouting is performed.

Tile laying tools

For this you will need:

• goggles to protect the eyes from possible fragments;
• professional tile cutter;
• level;
• notched spatula;
• rubber spatula for seams;
• wide sponge;
• tape measure and slate pencil;
• plastic crosses of the required size;
• hammer;
• clean rag.

At the time of collecting the tool, you need to decide on the pattern, according to which the material will be laid on the floor. You can lay the decorative material with your own hands exactly seam to seam, diagonally, in a run. Whether you want to limit yourself to a single-color tile, combine contrasting shades in a checkerboard pattern or add decor - it's up to you, the main thing is that the result is harmonious and pleases with its beauty.

Laying tiles

Usually laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen starts from the wall, which always remains in sight, and trimming is best left in those areas where furniture and plumbing are planned to be installed. Do not forget to control the center lines of the window opening, because when you enter the room, the mismatch between the tile seams and those same lines instantly catches your eye and does not look aesthetically pleasing.

To avoid such mistakes, first lay out a part of the ceramic cladding without gluing and make sure that the desired pattern is achieved. Such a procedure will not take much time, but as practice shows, it will be very useful.

Adhesive selection

There are two types of adhesive base for ceramic tiles on the shelves of hardware stores:

1. Ready glue.
2. Dry mix for making a mortar with your own hands.

Glue consumption calculation

The finished mass is poured into plastic buckets, and you can immediately start using it without additional preparation. The only drawback of this material is its high cost. Dry mixes can be considered more popular glue, which, in turn, are divided into several categories:

1. Universal- intended for most cases.
2. Reinforced- used for laying large-sized heavy tiles and porcelain tiles.
3. Basic- applied to perfectly flat surfaces without errors.
4. For difficult surfaces- you can put a material with a smooth texture (glass, metal) on them.

A solution is prepared from dry mixes according to the instructions indicated on the package. To do this, dry mass is poured into a container with water in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. The grout for the joints is prepared in the same way. We do not recommend mixing a large number of glue, as it hardens quickly, and you simply do not have time to work it out.

The main stage of installing tiles on the floor

In order to lay the facing material without problems, it is necessary to ensure the correct temperature in the toilet or bathroom, where the work will be carried out. +20 C is considered the optimal mark. If this parameter is less, the drying time of the glue will increase, and at high rates, the moisture from the solution will evaporate very quickly, which will negatively affect its strength.

Starting to lay floor tiles in the toilet with your own hands, you need to take a spatula with a flat side, draw glue on it and apply the mixture to the floor at an acute angle, while applying some effort. This method will help the glue to penetrate into all the cracks, and it will be evenly distributed over a flat surface.

Next, you need to walk along the glue with the notched side of the spatula, maintaining the same pressure angle, otherwise the grooves will have different heights, which means that the tile will lie unevenly. The optimal adhesive layer should be at least 3 mm.

Tile installation

Ceramic cladding is laid on the floor, starting from the intended wall. If this is your first time doing such work in the bathroom or toilet on your own, start with solid tiles, and fill the resulting gaps with cut material. Each tile is pressed tightly against the surface smeared with glue so that the grooves are completely filled with mortar, and its excess from the joints is wiped with a rag.

In order for the dimensions of the seams between the decorative segments to be the same, and the grout to lie evenly in them, you need to install plastic crosses at the joints of the tiles. Make sure that the line of joints does not move during the work - it should be straight.

Trimming ceramic facing material performed using a special tile cutter, but in the case of thin samples, you can get by with a glass cutter or a scraper with a victorious tip. The edge of the tiles is carefully chipped off with sharp tongs.

After 24 hours, a grout can be applied to fill the gaps between the decorative finish. A multi-colored fugue is sold in hardware stores, and you can easily pick it up for your tile. The procedure for applying the fugue is quite simple and is carried out with a rubber spatula.

Grouting

After the material has dried, wipe the floor surface with a damp cloth. To make the grout last longer and not lose its color, it can be coated with a special solution. Following our advice, you can independently lay the tiles on the floor in the toilet or shower room.

No matter how diverse the assortment of available finishing materials pleases today, ceramic tiles, although they belong to the respectable “veterans” of the construction market, are by no means in a hurry to give up their leading positions in popularity. It occupies a very specific "niche" - this material, thanks to its unique performance characteristics, is used for external and outdoor work, for residential and technical premises, for finishing floors and walls, facades and hydraulic structures, adjoining buildings and even garden design elements.

Tiles have practically no competitors in the field of interior decoration with a pronounced high level of humidity - bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. The strength of ceramics allows it to withstand high loads, therefore, when facing floors in such rooms, preference is most often given to it, since, with all its positive qualities, it is also very affordable. And one more important advantage is the relative ease of installation: if you thoroughly understand the intricacies of how to lay tiles on the floor, fill your hand a little, show diligence, then you can easily cope with such work on your own.

But before taking on styling issues, it would be logical to consider the problems of its proper selection.

Going to the store for selection and purchase required material, the owner of the apartment should "arm himself" with basic knowledge about which tiles are usually on sale.

Choosing a floor tile based solely on its decorative qualities is an extremely frivolous approach. In a good salon-shop, trained sales assistants can be of great help, who will tell you which tile model is intended for which purpose. But it’s better to be able to navigate in icons and pictograms, which can tell a lot by themselves. Most common characters that may occur are shown in the table:

1 - This is a tile with pronounced frost-resistant qualities. It is suitable for the floor of the porch, veranda, balcony or loggia. It makes no sense to spend money on the purchase of such a tile for further flooring in a heated room.

2 - Foot on an inclined plane - a symbol of the anti-slip qualities of the tile. For rooms with high humidity(bathroom, kitchen) or for hallways, where moisture is often brought in from the street on shoes - a very important criterion. Often such an icon is accompanied by a digital indicator - this is the coefficient of friction. For these premises, the best choice would be slightly rough tiles with a specified coefficient of at least 0.75.

3 - A sign in the form of a diamond (sometimes found with the image of a drill) - the tile has increased characteristics of surface strength, resistance to accented impacts. Good quality for the floor in the kitchen - accidentally dropped dishes will not cause serious damage to the coating.

4 - Such a pictogram is always accompanied by a numerical value - this is the thickness of the ceramic tile. For laying on the floor, a material with a thickness of about 7 - 8 mm is usually purchased.

5 - Bending strength of a single tile. This parameter is determined based on the results of bench tests, and the higher it is, the better the material (for example, for porcelain stoneware, this indicator is much higher than for ordinary tiles). However, tiles on the floor should be laid so that the bending load is minimal - tightly and evenly to the surface, without air bubbles, shells, etc. .

6 - The palm-shaped icon indicates that this ceramic tile is intended exclusively for walls. No matter how beautiful and durable it may seem, it is impossible to purchase it for laying on the floor.

7 - But the image of the footprint from the boot speaks for itself - this tile is designed specifically for the floor.

8 or 16 are indicators of the resistance of ceramic tiles to abrasive, abrasive loads. In accordance with international standard PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7), there are 5 wear classes:

Wear class according to PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7)	Application area
I	Such tiles are suitable for rooms with a minimum load, where there is never an intensive movement of people (for example, a bathroom, a bathroom). In such premises, street shoes are not worn, and they do not have close proximity to the exit to the street.
II	This tile is for rooms where people also wear slippers, but the traffic intensity is already somewhat higher.
III	The wear resistance of this class allows the use of ceramic tiles in hallways or kitchens.
IV	High-strength tiles for rooms and halls with intensive use - entrances, shops, public places, offices, etc. In the conditions of apartments or private houses, it makes no sense to apply
V	The highest class of abrasion resistance, applicable to coatings with extremely high intensity of movement of people and even some types of vehicles. Scope of application - stations, large supermarkets, warehouses, industrial premises, etc.

9 - This pictogram indicates that the ceramic tile has undergone a double firing procedure. Such material usually has a glossy glazed surface, and is more suitable for laying on walls. In addition, the technology of double firing implies an increased porosity of ceramics - and this is a decrease in its mechanical strength and increased water absorption.

10 - The icon in the form of a chemical flask indicates the increased resistance of the tile surface to acids, alkalis, and other aggressive substances, including any type household chemicals. The letter indicator of this property of the material is "AA".

11 - If you come across such an icon, then you need to be careful in choosing a tile - in one box there can be tiles of various shades.

12 – Notwhich expensive types of ceramic tiles can be produced with the inclusion of precious metals in their composition: silver (Ag), gold (Au) or even platinum (Pt).

Pictograms 13 ÷ 15 inform about the parameters of the factory packaging of ceramic tiles. So, in the example above, symbol 13 indicates that the gross weight of the box is 19.00 kilograms, symbol 14 indicates that one package is enough for 1.42 m² of floor space, and symbol 16 indicates that 24 tiles are packed in a box.

The pictograms indicated in the table under numbers from 17 to 21 will tell you about some specific properties of the material. Such ceramic tiles are designed for special operating conditions. It could be train stations. and and airports, medical institutions, industrial enterprises, hotels, sports facilities. It makes no sense to purchase such tiles for flooring in a private house or apartment.

Other points not to be overlooked:

• If the tiles are planned to be laid on the floor of a bathroom, shower room, kitchen or other room with high humidity, then a material with a minimum (not higher than 3%) water absorption coefficient is required.
• The linear dimensions (length and width) of the tile also matter. Of course, the larger the tile, the faster it can be laid. However, for rooms with a small area and complex floor shapes, tiles that are too large will not work - there will be a lot of waste. Yes, and large tiles in such little rooms will look somewhat ridiculous. In addition, we must not forget that carefully laying large tiles is much more difficult.
• If you purchase several packs of ceramic tiles, you must definitely select the goods of one batch.

This is necessary for two reasons:

- Firstly, even a completely identical tile model, but from different batches, may have slight deviations in shade. In the conditions of the store, it is quite possible that it will not even be noticeable. However, after laying such a coating on the floor and under normal lighting, such a difference can greatly spoil the intended interior appearance of the room.

Different batches may also differ in calibration - the linear dimensions of the tile

Secondly, fluctuations in terms of linear dimensions tiles. It is clear that the cutting of material in production is carried out under the control of precise electronics. But it still remains ceramics, and there may be small errors, so the finished products must be calibrated. There must always be tiles of the same size in one batch, and the difference between different batches can even be a few millimeters. When laying such a tile on the floor, especially in large areas, there may be inconsistencies noticeable to the naked eye.

• Be sure to check the packages for broken, cracked tiles or chips on the surface. Salespeople may argue that marriage is inevitable and must be accepted. No, you don't, you pay your money for a quality product.
• It is generally accepted that a certain reserve should be purchased, 10% more than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises. This will be spent on “cuts” and in cases of compensation for some unfortunate misunderstandings. It must be remembered that it will not always be possible to buy additional tiles later to make up for the missing quantity - this has already been mentioned when talking about batches.

By the way, if laying is planned tiles, then the reserve can even be slightly increased - up to 15%. With such a technology, it is more difficult to fit the material along the walls, more waste remains and, in addition, the probability of making some mistakes, but inexperience, is much higher.

Prices for ceramic tiles

Ceramic tile

How to lay tiles on a concrete floor

The process of facing the floor with ceramic tiles can be divided into four main stages:

• Surface preparation for laying.
• Carrying out the necessary markup, drawing up a scheme of work.
• Laying ceramic tiles on adhesive mortar.
• and finishing work.

Preparing the floor surface for tiling

The requirements for the base for laying tiles, in principle, are simple - it must be strong, stable, and provide good adhesion with the adhesive composition. How is this achieved?

If we are talking about a concrete base, then first it is necessary to make a thorough revision of the old screed, on which it is planned to lay the tiles. No need to be lazy - you should tap every centimeter of the floor to make sure there are no unstable areas.

• First of all, its horizontalness is checked - if this condition is not met, then pouring a new screed simply cannot be avoided. If the evenness is satisfactory (differences are not more than 2-3 mm), then the old coating can still serve, provided, of course, it is stable.
• If, during the control inspection, places of screed peeling, concrete crumbling, deep oiling are revealed, they must be removed up to the “healthy” surface, both in width and in depth. Wide cracks and crevices need to be cut to a width of up to 10 - 15 mm.
• There should be no traces of paint, oil products, fats, remnants of the old coating on the surface - everything is scraped off to clean concrete.
• All protrusions are necessarily cut down - if you can sometimes look at a slight recess "through your fingers", since it will still be filled with glue during the masonry process, then even the smallest tubercle will make even laying simply impossible.
• After that, a thorough cleaning with dedusting of the surface is carried out. In order for the repair suction to lie well, it is necessary to prime all the places to be repaired and allow the primer to dry completely.
• A repair composition is being prepared - it can be a “classic” cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3, but it will dry for a long time.

The finished and completely frozen screed is also primed twice, after which you can proceed to further work.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Floor marking for laying ceramic tiles

Ceramic tiles should become a decoration of the room, and this will be possible only if its location on the floor is planned correctly. Carelessly, obliquely laid tiles can completely complete the interior

There are many methods and methods for placing ceramic tiles on the floor - it is impossible to consider all of them on the scale of this article - this is a topic for a separate publication. But even the simplest, "classic" method requires precision and accuracy.

Starting to plan laying from the wall is very risky, since the slightest flaw will grow with each successive row, and it will be very difficult to eliminate it. Therefore, the reference lines and the first rows of tiles are usually located approximately in the center of the room.

The first reference line is usually drawn along the room. To do this, in two places, at the beginning and at the end, the distance between opposite walls is carefully measured and midpoints are applied. They are connected straight (usually done with a coated cord), and receive a longitudinal baseline.

Now you need to draw the second, perpendicular to the first, also approximately in the middle of the room. It is very important that the strictest perpendicularity be observed. In order to avoid mistakes, and this is quite possible when using a square and a ruler, you should definitely check the right angle using the formula of the famous "Egyptian triangle": 3² + 4² = 5². According to the Pythagorean theorem, this is a triangle with legs that are multiples of 3 and 4, and a hypotenuse that is a multiple of 5.

For example, we measure from the point of intersection of the leg 900 and 1200 mm. We connect the marked points with a segment, and its length should be exactly 1500 mm - no more no less.

When the lines are drawn and their perpendicularity is checked, you can think about how to place the rows of tiles and where to start laying out. We remember that the drawn reference lines are not at all a “dogma” for the beginning of masonry - it will not be difficult for them to make a parallel transfer in any direction.

For example, if the front door in a spacious room is located exactly in the center, then you can lay out the first rows of tiles in this way - along the laid reference lines. The principle is as follows - so that when entering the room, a flat area is presented to the eye, without cuts and fitting. (see pos. "a" in the figure).

But in a small room, with an offset to the edge (pos. "b"), and even possibly having a complex shape or stationary obstacles, the beginning of masonry can be smstyle to a free "patch" - from here it will be much more convenient to work in all directions, but it will be the entrance that will turn out to be the "front door".

In any case, you should never be lazy - you should carry out the control laying of the central longitudinal and transverse rows of ceramic tiles "dry", without using mortar, but leaving the planned gap between adjacent tiles.

Do not neglect the initial "dry" laying of tiles - this will allow you to evaluate the options for its location

Such a simple procedure will allow you to visually assess the future picture, measure the distances, and finally decide on the laying scheme, that is, stop at one of the principles:

1 - in a small room, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you can take two walls from the entrance (green arrows) as the "starting line", provided that they are exactly perpendicular. In this case, the entire visible part of the room will be lined with whole tiles, and the cut edges will be hidden under furniture or plumbing fixtures.

2 - masonry is carried out from the center in such a way as to place the maximum possible number of whole tiles on the floor, leaving narrow sections for supplementing with fragments (brown arrows). Beneficial in terms of material savings. However, for reasons of masonry quality, it is advisable to leave sections not narrower than ⅓ of the tile width near the walls.

3 - the layout looks a little more impressive with a minimum number of whole tiles in a row, but with extended fragments along the walls (blue arrows). Such a coating looks more complete, and from an operational point of view, it is more reliable than No. 2.

4 - laying diagonally - will help hide the curvature of the room. Among the disadvantages is a more complex execution, especially in terms of preliminary marking and fitting of tile fragments, more material goes to waste.

If you have decided on this, then you should immediately outline what scheme will work is being done- from the far corner to the entrance, or by dividing the space into several areas in straight stacked rows, with their subsequent filling.

“Filling” the space can also be done in different ways. So, some masters are laying in order. Others prefer the "ladder" scheme with a consistent increase in the number of rows being laid at the same time.

"Filling" the space can be performed linearly, or, as shown in the figure, stepwise

By the way, there are supporters of laying ceramic tiles on the floor “in a run” or even randomly - sometimes this is part of the design plan for decorating the room. But in the conditions of an ordinary house, they still prefer to confine themselves to a direct laying pattern, “seam to seam”.

Laying tiles on the floor

• So, we are preparing the necessary tools and materials for laying.

- For work, you will need spatulas, ordinary, from 100 to 250 mm wide, and notched, with a furrow height of 8 - 10 mm. For grouting, it’s a good idea to get an elastic rubber spatula.

- You will need a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle for mixing tiles with an appropriate container for the same purpose.

- Always have a building level at hand.

- In some cases, it will be necessary to apply force to lay the tile in place. It is convenient to use a rubber mallet for this purpose.

- You should immediately think about how the tiles will be cut (more on this below).

- It is necessary to create a supply of calibration crosses of the required thickness, plastic wedges for height alignment.

- In order not to carry dirt, you need to have a supply of clean rags, a sponge for wiping the solution from the front surface of the tile.

• Probably no one thinks about it anymore. self-manufacturing tile adhesive - it can always be purchased at the store. When choosing, you need to control the purpose of the composition - in addition to the usual, intended for most interiors, there are specialized mixtures, intended for rooms with high humidity conditions, for the street, especially resistant or for so-called "complex surfaces", for the "warm floor" system, etc.

The glue is diluted by gradually adding a dry mixture to the amount of water specified in the instructions, with constant stirring with the help of a mixer or drill. The composition should turn out to be absolutely homogeneous, without lumps, of a sufficiently dense consistency - so that the ridges created by a notched trowel do not spread.

After obtaining the consistency of the composition necessary for work, it is left to “ripen” for 5 minutes, then mixed again for 2 ÷ 3 minutes - and you can start laying.

Too much mortar should not be prepared at once, especially if there is no experience in laying ceramic tiles. The term of his "life" is limited - this must be indicated in his instructions. If the glue begins to noticeably thicken during operation, then you will have to throw it away - you cannot dilute it with water again - it will lose its qualities.

• Beginning masters, apparently having heard a lot of old, irrelevant advice or having read about it somewhere, soak the tile in water before laying it on the floor. In doing so, they are committing a grave mistake.

A similar approach is possible if the tile is laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar, and even then - not in all cases. And all modern building mixtures - adhesives for ceramic tiles, are designed for application precisely on a dry surface. Excess water will significantly reduce the performance of the adhesive, and the tile will begin to “dance” and fall off over time.

Therefore, before laying the first tile, carefully read the instructions for use of the purchased tile adhesive again - everything is probably indicated there.

• Where to apply glue - on the floor, or on the tiles? There is no unanimity of opinion on this issue. Someone likes to apply on the tile - the marking lines on the floor remain intact.

On the other hand, it is more convenient to immediately smear a significant area of ​​​​the floor, and then concentrate on laying the tiles evenly (of course, if you have some experience, otherwise you may not have time).

Another option is to pre-glue the floor surface with glue.

There is a third tip - to coat both here and there, but lay the tiles in such a way that the direction of the ridges made with a notched trowel on the floor and on the tile is perpendicular - this way all cavities are guaranteed to be filled, maximum adhesion is ensured.

• After smearing with glue, the tile is laid on the surface in the right place, tightly pressed against the floor, its location relative to the reference lines is controlled, as well as the horizontalness of its upper plane in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
• Work continues in the same order, with obligatory installation calibration crosses - they will clearly maintain the required gap between the tiles.

When fitting each tile, its horizontalness must be checked using building level. The necessary adjustments are immediately made - adding or removing mortar, inserting a small wedge, etc.

• It is necessary to ensure that there is no excess glue left in the tile gap - this space will be needed to fill the joints. So it is better to remove the glue immediately, as it will be very difficult to do later. Together so, from the front surface of the tile, immediately remove stains of the solution with a rag or sponge, preventing them from drying out.
• Distance crosses are left between the tiles until the initial setting of the mortar. Then, when the tile has already acquired immobility, the crosses must be removed - it is impossible to leave them in the seams until the glue has completely solidified, since then there will be difficulties with extraction.

Video: a visual lesson on laying tiles on the floor

• Very convenient to use are modern devices for quickly laying out tiles - the so-called leveling systems. The kit includes stand clamps (disposable elements) and wedges (can be reused).

- After the first tile is laid on the glue, well pressed and inserted in level, two clamps are installed on each of its sides, so that they go under the tile with their heel. The thickness of the leg of the clamp will determine the size of the seam. Clamps are installed at a distance of approximately 50 mm from the corner.

Clamps installed...

Then another tile is laid. The wide heel of the clip is also under it.

... then the next tile is laid ...

A wedge is inserted and threaded to the limit into the clamp, where it will be fixed by a ribbed surface on the hooks. Very important - the wedges are always inserted from the side of the previously laid and leveled tiles.

... wedges are inserted all the way and fully fixed.

- Thus, the lower, even edge of the wedge "pulls" the surface of the next tile ideally into the plane of the already laid one. True, no one cancels control with the help of a level.

- The wedges should remain in this position until the glue has completely dried. Then they are removed with light side impacts using a rubber mallet. The design of the polymer clamps is such that they can withstand tensile stress, but immediately break off when exposed to a fracture. Below, under the tiles, remain only broken heels.

- Wedges, as already mentioned, can be used further, and broken hooks are disposed of.

Video: laying tiles with a tile leveling system

Tile cutting

Previously, it was only about laying a whole tile, but in practice there are never cases where everything is limited to this. So, now it's time to consider the problem of cutting tiles.

• Installation of fragments is recommended not immediately, but a day after the main part of the floor. During this time, the glue will already grab well, and it will be possible to accurately measure the required dimensions.
• When marking the tile poses, cutting should not be forgotten about the spacing between the seams - it should definitely be corrected for.
• There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles:

1. The most convenient way is with a tile cutter, a desktop tool that gives a smooth and accurate cut. It is enough to lay the tile with a marking line along the central ledge, draw the roller away from you with force over the surface of the tile, and then, resting the paws on the surface of the tile on both sides of the drawn line, press the lever down.

The most convenient tool is a tile cutter

With even a small experience of the master, there is practically no marriage in such cutting.

2. Manual tile cutter- a fairly convenient tool, but already requiring more dexterity from the worker.

First, the roller is drawn along the intended line of risk. Then the tile is clamped so that the tile cutter is exactly on top along the axis of the line cutting. Hand movement - and the tile should be divided into two parts.

Similarly, cutting is carried out using a conventional glass cutter, with the only difference being that the breaking is carried out on the edge of the workbench, or with the help of a line placed on the bottom of the workbench. cutting metal rod (nail or wire).

With all the advantages of manual and desktop tile cutters, they allow cutting tiles exclusively in a straight line.

3. grinder with a diamond disc - this approach is especially good when cutting tiles at an angle or creating complex shapes is required. The main difficulty here is to ensure that the tile is securely fixed when working with a grinder so that it does not fly out or crack.

Tiles can be precisely cut to size with a diamond grinder

The tile can be cut right through - when details of a complex configuration are required. If straight long sections are cut off, then you can only violate the integrity of the upper enamel layer - then it will not be difficult to break the tile along the intended line.

Particular attention to safety precautions - be sure to cover your eyes and face with a mask, so how not excluded scattering of small hot fragments of ceramics.

4. Small areas of tiles can be removed with pliers.

In this case, in the area to be removed, it is advisable to apply a fine mesh with a glass cutter roller. Then, with tongs, very small fragments are carefully broken out, gradually bringing the tile to the desired size.

If necessary, any minor unevenness left after cutting can be removed with a block wrapped with coarse (80) sandpaper. With large teeth, they can be “corrected” with pliers. If a pronounced sharp edge remains, then it is better to process it with a round file first.

The process of laying cut fragments, in fact, is no different from what was described above.

When performing work on cutting tiles and when laying its fragments, special care should be taken. Ceramics can crack and not along the intended line, which means that there is a high probability of getting a cut hand injury when pressed. In addition, broken edges can have extremely sharp edges that can cause very deep cuts. All work should only be done with protective gloves.

Seam sealing

After the entire floor area is covered with ceramic tiles, you can proceed to grouting.

• First of all, it is necessary to check the condition of the seams again - they must be cleaned to the full depth and width.
• getting ready jointing solution - grout. It can be cement-based or a two-component epoxy.

1. In domestic conditions, cement grouts are more often used (the so-called class WITHG 2 according to EN 13888).

Cement grout for joints

They are sold in stores in the form of hermetically packed dry mixes, they can have different colors - there is always the opportunity to choose the most suitable for general design color. They are closed to the desired consistency most often with water. But for rooms with high humidity or for floors with a high level of load, it is still recommended to use a special latex additive to dilute the composition - the floor surface will only benefit from this.

2. Recently, epoxy-based grouts (class RG according to EN 13888) are rapidly gaining popularity. These are two-component compounds that are prepared immediately before the start of work on filling the joints.

The “life” of such a composition is short, so it is prepared in small portions in order to be guaranteed to work out before hardening.

Epoxy grouts are more durable, resistant to chemicals, they are much more ductile and will not crack over time. These compositions have a much wider range of shades (including bright, saturated colors), and besides, many similar grouts are sold with special effects - sparkles, fluorescent glow, etc.

The only significant drawback of epoxy grouts (except for a certain difficulty with proper preparation working composition) - this is still a very high price, very limiting the scope of their use.

• The finished composition is typed on a rubber spatula or rubber grater and applied with force to the seam area, usually in the direction of 45 degrees from the seam line. Such a trajectory will provide the most complete and dense filling of the inter-seam space.

• After the joints are filled, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess mixture from the surface of the tile - later this will be much more difficult to do. Usually this is started when the grout remaining on the surface of the tile has appeared white coating- it began to dry out (usually after 20 - 30 minutes).

To do this, take a foam sponge, well washed and wrung out, and remove the remains of the fugue with it. The movements are usually the same as when grouting - 45 degrees to the seam line. At the same time, one should try not to touch the seams so as not to wash the puffer out of there. The sponge should be thoroughly rinsed as often as possible, with a constant change of water. By the way, water plays a dual role here - it washes away dirt and participates in the hydration of the cement composition of the grout.

After 3 — 4 hours, you can rinse the surface again with a foam sponge. Then, when the floor dries after washing, the remaining light cement coating is easy to remove by wiping the tiles with a dry, clean, soft cloth.

After that, the ceramic tile will already take on its “ceremonial” appearance, and it will be possible to say that the process of laying it is completed.

Prices for grout for seams

Grout for joints

Video: option for grouting on a tiled floor

However, if the cladding was carried out in a room with high humidity or with intense loads on the surface, then it is recommended to carry out one more simple operation - to coat the seams water repellent.

This is done very simply - the composition is abundantly applied to the seams with a thin brush. Such treatment will give the composition of the fugue water-repellent properties, which will significantly increase the service life of the ceramic coating, prevent dampness from accumulating in these places, and facilitate cleaning.

When the water repellent is absorbed and dries, you can restore the final order. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the floor with clean water - and we can assume that the entire multi-stage process of laying tiles on the floor is over!

In any room, the floor is exposed to the greatest mechanical stress. Therefore, floor tiles must be durable, resistant to abrasion and chemicals, and also have high moisture resistance, because it is most often laid in rooms where wet cleaning. In addition, floor tiles are also important element interior. It should be in harmony with the decoration of the walls and ceiling, create a common background with them. That is why designers develop different types of tiled flooring. What to focus on when choosing a tile for the floor and how to lay it correctly with your own hands - you will learn about this by reading this article.

We choose a tile for the floor in accordance with the operating conditions and personal preferences in color, shape, texture

When choosing a tile for a floor, it is necessary to take into account the load to which it will be subjected, the type of room (an object with high traffic or a dwelling). According to this criterion floor tiles Available for low, medium and high load levels. The low-load tile is designed for places where people mostly walk barefoot or in soft slippers. The medium load tile can withstand normal shoes. Tiles for a high level of load are laid in places with a large crowd of people.

In this case, we are interested in laying tiles on the floor of a residential building. Suitable , hallway, kitchen, toilet. If the tiled floor is not planned to be covered with carpets, then you should not choose tiles with a glazed surface, since it is easy to slip on such a floor covering. In this case, it is better that the tile is embossed - this increases the coefficient of friction. Tiles for the kitchen on the floor - on the contrary, should not be embossed, as it will be difficult to clean. For the kitchen floor, it is better to choose glazed tiles with a matte finish (may have a laser pattern to prevent slipping).

Having chosen a tile that meets these requirements, you can proceed to the choice of size, shape and color. Here you can dream up plenty, not forgetting to take into account the interior of the apartment and how the selected floor tiles will look in it. For example, a glossy glazed tile expands a visually cramped space, while a dark matte one will make a large room more sophisticated.

It's important to know! When choosing a tile, you should buy it all at once, in one series, as well as with a mandatory stock (approximately 10% of the calculated amount).

Do-it-yourself tiling is a responsible and lengthy process. Here are its main steps:

• preparation of the floor surface;
• floor marking according to the chosen laying scheme;
• direct laying of tiles;
• cutting tiles under the right dimensions and configuration;
• grouting.

Floor surface preparation

From what will be the surface of the coating on which the tile is laid, its further operational qualities will eventually depend. For this it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

Choosing a layout scheme and marking the floor according to it

With the help of tiles you can decorate the house, create an unforgettable interior in the room. How to lay tiles - in a linear or checkerboard pattern, create drawings and patterns or collect mosaics - is up to the owner.

Tiling schemes can be as follows

It is only important that the tile is started from the most visible places, because at the end of the installation it may be necessary to cut the tile to add the rest of the place in pieces.

There are three main options for laying out floor tiles:

1. "Seam to seam" - rows of tiles are laid in parallel. Most suitable for large tiles.
2. Laying "diagonally" - is made at an angle of 45 ° to the lines of the walls. Allows you to hide small irregularities in the walls with the help of cut tiles laid along the edges.
3. Laying "in run-up" is carried out according to the method brickwork from rectangular floor tiles. In this case, the first tile is laid not in the corner, but in the center of the room.

Each of these styling methods is good in its own way, the main thing is that the chosen option is in harmony with the design of the room.

We make the markup according to the selected scheme (in our example, the scheme is simple - “seam to seam”). To do this, from the wall located at the entrance, we measure a distance equal to the width of the tile, adding 4-5 mm to the gap, which will be closed later with a plinth (this space can then be used for laying a television or telephone cable). We stretch the paint cord along the marks and beat off the line.

Marking the floor surface for laying tiles

The procedure for laying floor tiles

To resolve the issue of how to properly lay tiles in order to get a beautiful and high-quality flooring, you just need to strictly follow the laying technology.

In order to know how to stick tiles in the same direction, a corrugated arrow is applied on its back. When laying, we cover the arrow with glue and we can get confused, so we make additional marks on the ends of the tiles with a pencil.

We make marks on the ends of the tiles in order to know the direction of its laying

For styling we need:

• rubber mallet;
• tile adhesive;
• notched trowel for floor tiles (with 12 mm square teeth);
• small level (45-50 cm);
• rule 1.5-2.0 m long;
• plastic crosses (3mm) and wedges for seams (4-5mm);
• grinder with a diamond disc;
• drill with a nozzle or a construction mixer.

An important point when laying tiles is compliance with the temperature regime - within 20 ° C.

1. Find the center of the doorway and mark it.

   Marking the center of the doorway

   We put one tile for reference - as it will lie.

   Laying tiles for reference

2. We knead the tile adhesive using a drill with a special nozzle or a construction electric mixer. Pour the dry mixture into water (water consumption - strictly according to the instructions on the package, otherwise the glue may turn out to be liquid). It is not necessary to prepare a lot of glue at once so that it does not have time to dry before we use it. The adhesive solution should be left for 15 minutes to infuse, then mix well one more time.
3. Apply the glue in an even layer on the tile with a spatula. We carry out a notched comb, holding it at a right angle and pressing it firmly against the surface of the tile so that the adhesive strips are the same.

   Apply glue to the tile and draw with a toothed comb

   The larger the size of the tile, the deeper and wider the grooves on the adhesive should be, and, accordingly, the size of the teeth of the spatula. Shake off excess glue so that it does not stick to the comb. We apply the first tile to the floor to the right of the one that was placed for reference. We press and gently tap it with a rubber mallet for a tighter fit.

   For a tighter fit to the surface, tap the tile with a hammer

   If any tile becomes hard to level with the rest, in this case it is recommended to remove a little glue from under it or add (if it fails). We check with a level how the tile lies.

4. We continue to lay the floor tiles in a row to the right. We do it in this way: before pressing the next tile to the floor, we put the level on it in such a way that part of it hangs over the previous tile.

   Laying tiles on the floor with a level

   We press the tile a little with our hands, making small circular movements until the edge of the level touches the surface.

5. Align along the line, insert crosses between the tiles so that the seams are the same. And so that the tile does not accidentally move, we fix it with wedges from the side of the wall.

   To prevent the tile from moving, we fix it with wedges from the side of the wall

   We lay out the entire row to the side wall on the right, checking the evenness of the plane of the laid tiles using the rule. If it is necessary to correct the position of any tiles, this must be done within 15 minutes after laying. Later, for this, the tile will need to be removed and re-laid, having previously cleaned it of hardened glue.

6. A piece of trimmed tile must be placed against the wall. Since floor tiles are much stronger than wall tiles, a tile cutter cannot cut it evenly: it splits arbitrarily, and not along a notch. Therefore, you have to cut it with a grinder with a diamond disc.

   Trimming tiles with a grinder with a diamond blade

   Having laid the trim against the wall on the right, we continue to lay the row to the left of the doorway until the first row is completed.

   First row of tiles laid

   We begin to lay out the second row from the tile in the center of the door, and go first to the right and then to the left of it. Between the rows we also insert plastic spacer crosses. We check each by level, making sure that the corners of the next tile do not protrude above the surface of the one already laid. The second row is also completed.

7. In places where pipes exit, we make figured cutouts with the help of a grinder.

   In places where pipes exit, we make curly cutouts

   If it is necessary to make round holes, then we use nozzles for a tungsten soldered drill. Upon completion of laying, we check with the help of the rule the plane in several places (in different directions).

   Checking the laying plane using the rule

   After making sure that everything is in order, we wait for the glue to dry in order to grout the seams.

Grouting joints between tiles

We figured out how to glue tiles, but no less important technological operation is grouting tiles. This is the final stage of installation. Probably, rarely anyone likes to rub the seams - this is a monotonous, boring job, but you can’t do without it. Qualitatively worn seams will give a finished look to the overall picture, and the tile will look even more beautiful. A failed grout, on the contrary, can ruin all the work.

When buying grout, it should be borne in mind that for many of them the color of the powder in the package differs from the color of the finished and then dried mixture. Therefore, you should not be surprised if, upon opening the package, you find a completely different color than the one that was shown to you in the store. The solution will acquire the desired color when mixed with water.

Often the color of the dry powder is different from the color of the finished grout.

When mixed with water, the grout acquires the desired color

We add water to the dry grout mixture and knead with a regular spatula a small amount of grout of the consistency of thick sour cream. We wait 5 minutes for the solution to infuse, then mix it thoroughly again.

Important! Grouting works are carried out on clean tiles. If the tile is laid neatly, the seams will be clean; if not, they need to be cleaned, removing excess tile adhesive. It would be useful to moisten dry seams with water with a narrow brush or sponge.

Using a rubber spatula, we fill the tile joints. We collect the excess mixture with a spatula and apply it again perpendicular to the seam. We draw thin lines with the corner of the spatula moistened with water.

Filling tile joints with grout

After filling the last seam, we wait about 30 minutes until the grout begins to polymerize. By this time, the grout composition is already holding quite firmly in the seams, but it is easily removed from the surface of the tile. We carry out the first wash, using a large-pore sponge for this. We carry out a final re-wash 1 hour after grouting. Then wipe the floor dry with a flannel cloth.

Attention! Laying floor tiles must be carried out strictly following the recommendations of the manufacturers of all materials used (tile, adhesive mixture, grout).

In the early days, the seams must be moistened with a wet sponge to give strength to the grout. And after 1-1.5 weeks, the floor can be operated (if the tile laying technology has been observed). We glue skirting boards and enjoy the result of labor.

We hope that this article has helped you learn all the nuances of laying tiles on the floor, and you will be able to do this work with your own hands without resorting to the services of professionals who cost almost as much as the tile itself.

Laying tiles on your own is not an easy task, and therefore, many trust it to professionals. But such a solution is quite expensive, and therefore, do-it-yourself work is far from uncommon. This is where step-by-step tiling helps.

An important factor in this case is the strict observance of the technology of work. In total, the whole process can be divided into 7 stages. More specifically, laying ceramic tiles on the floor is carried out in the following sequence:

1. First of all, the calculation of materials, their purchase and preparation of the tool is performed.
2. Next, you need to prepare the surface, in this case, the base is leveled and primed.
3. The next step is marking, which involves the rough layout of the tiles and the application of marks, in some cases, support stops.
4. The next step is laying, in particular the first row.
5. Further, the entire area is laid with solid tiles.
6. The next step is cutting the tiles and laying them.
7. And finally, the seams are grouted.

Thus, for the correct installation of tiles on the floor with your own hands, detailed instructions are simply necessary. And then we will consider in more detail each of the stages of work.

Preparation of tools and materials

In the case when laying tiles with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

1. Master OK.
2. Several spatulas, in particular, notched, regular and rubber.
3. You should also arm yourself with several levels, small, up to 50 centimeters in size, and medium, up to 1 meter.
4. The next will be a rubber mallet.
5. Another necessary tool is a grinder or, since in most cases it is simply necessary to cut tiles. Here you can also note additional devices, such as wire cutters, sandpaper and file.
6. And the last device will be a container for adhesive mixture.

We figured out the tool, now you should pay attention to the materials, or rather to their calculation and purchase.

In particular, for a correct calculation, it is not enough just to measure the surface area, factors such as:

1. Tile size.
2. The thickness of the adhesive layer.
3. Tile type.
4. Base material.
5. The presence of obstacles.

All these factors just need to be taken into account. In addition, if it is necessary to cut tiles, you should also pay attention to the size of the segments. Because if they are more than half the size of the tile, then for one such row, you will need to purchase twice as many tiles.

Usually, when calculating, 10-15% is added to the resulting number, which for the most part is enough to cover the cost of cutting, as well as cases of marriage (damage to tiles, incorrect cutting, etc.).

Speaking of the adhesive mixture, here the calculation is carried out based on the type of tile, the type of mixture itself, the size, and the required layer thickness, which is usually indicated on the package.

To calculate the required amount of grout and glue, you can use the calculators on our website:

We figured out this issue, now you can go directly to the technological process.

Surface preparation for laying

The first issue is the preparation of the foundation. It is very important to ensure maximum flat surface, otherwise the ideal styling will not work. The main mistake is the myth that a little more glue can hide bumps, which is not true. High-quality laying is possible only on a flat base, and nothing else.

Before laying, it is first necessary to dismantle the old coating, if any, up to the very base. The next step is to form and .

The method of leveling the floor does not play a role here. This can be either, or, the arrangement of the "warm floor" system, etc. The main factor is the full compliance with the technology of work.

Also, all sills, skirting boards and other obstacles that may interfere with laying tiles close to the wall are subject to dismantling.

In some cases, it is possible to lay tiles on the floor without dismantling the old coating (in particular, provided that it is also a tile).

Surface marking

And the next step is the marking of the floor surface, which is especially important when laying uneven tiles. It is carried out as follows:

1. A straight line of the first row of tiles is marked. Since the laying is carried out starting from the far corner of the room, the markup is also accordingly.
2. Next are labels for the location of the material. In cases where tiles are laid without seams with a pattern, a complete drawing of the location of the elements is necessary.
3. An important factor is the laying at the entrance, in this case, the markings should be carried out in such a way that solid fragments lie at the doors; accordingly, it may be necessary to indent from the far wall.
4. An important factor in the markup is the accounting of which also plays a role.
5. You can also carry out a preliminary layout of the tiles on the surface, for more accurate marking.

Laying tiles diagonally

The beginning of laying and filling the area with solid fragments.

After the markup is done, you can start laying ceramic tiles with your own hands. To begin with, we will directly analyze the arrangement of the first row and the further laying of solid fragments, after which we will move on to cutting and final laying.

So, let's look at how the tiles are laid, the step-by-step instructions in this case will be the best helper:

1. First of all, you need to prepare the adhesive mixture. Difficulties should not arise here. We do everything in accordance with the instructions on the package. In this case, the amount of mixing should not exceed that required for a plot of 1 square meter.
2. Now, armed with a notched trowel, apply a layer of glue to the floor surface. For greater reliability, you can also apply a layer on the tile itself, in this case, the grooves of the mixture on the surfaces should be perpendicular to each other.
3. We put the first tile on the glue, after which we press it lowering it to the required level. Next, you need to align it to the ideal horizontal position, which is checked using the building level.
4. For leveling, a rubber hammer is used, with the help of which, with light taps, the tile is more tightly pressed against the surface.
5. It is important to do everything quickly and accurately. After laying, it is highly undesirable to remove the tile from the surface.
6. So, the first tile is laid and leveled. Now you can start laying the next ones.
7. In the same way as in the first case, glue is applied, and the tile is laid on the floor. Next, alignment is carried out according to the level of the first element. You can add some glue if needed.
8. After the final shrinkage of the tiles, the excess mixture is removed.
9. It is important not to forget about or special, to form the same seams over the entire surface.
10. It should be placed either in the corners, at the intersection, or with an indent of 2-3 centimeters from the edge of the tile.
11. All gaps between the tiles should be immediately cleaned of excess adhesive, since after it dries, cleaning will be almost impossible.
12. In the same way, the laying of large tiles is carried out.
13. Further, the base area is completely covered with whole fragments.

On this, this phase is completed, and you can move on. Before that, it is necessary to let the glue grab and harden to such an extent that it is possible to walk on the coating. It is advisable to leave the masonry for a day, and then continue to work.

Cutting tiles and laying the remaining fragments

The next step is cutting the missing fragments of the coating. Several tools can be used to cut tiles, depending on the type and thickness of the tile. In some cases, the use of a glass cutter is also acceptable, in others it can only be handled with the help of a grinder. And for porcelain tiles you will need already.

Having chosen a tool, you must first take all the necessary measurements and make marks on the tile. All marks are drawn from the back. Having marked the tile, you can start cutting. Since the process is quite dusty, it is desirable to carry it out on the street.

If it is necessary to cut uneven fragments, for example, arcuate ones, a machine with a diamond wheel or a special tile cutter-nippers is used.

The cutting process itself is carried out as follows:

1. The tile must be firmly fixed so that it does not stagger or vibrate when cutting.
2. After that, following the marked marks, cutting is performed.

In the case of using a special tile cutter, it includes a special platform for fixing and limiters, with which you can indicate the direction of cutting.

Grouting tiles

And the last stage is grouting. It can not be carried out only in the case of seamless tiling.

To start it, you must wait until the adhesive mixture has completely dried, and then completely remove the crosses and other auxiliary materials from the surface, if any.

Before starting, we carry out a complete cleaning of the surface, which can be done with a vacuum cleaner, and proceed. The process itself is carried out as follows:

1. Cover the edges of the tile with masking tape. This is done if the tile is dull and the pores are large and to avoid contamination and reduce the amount of tile cleaning work when using epoxy grouts.
2. The next step is to dilute the grout, and apply it with a rubber spatula.
3. Movements are performed perpendicular to the seam, while with pressure, in order to completely fill the seam with the compound.
4. After that, the excess solution is removed, the seam at the same time is slightly deepened and leveled.
5. After complete drying, the adhesive tape is removed and the surface of the tile is wiped with a damp sponge.