How to make a wood router table. Milling table: do-it-yourself installation, instructions, drawings

16.06.2019

For the convenience of working with a milling cutter, the craftsmen install it permanently, and the workpiece is moved. When working in this way, we are no longer talking about a manual router, but the so-called "milling table". In this article we will try to explain how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands.

Which cutter to choose

There are many types of cutters. Before choosing it, you need to consider for what purposes you will need it. More complex workpieces will require a more powerful and resourceful router. Experts recommend choosing a router with manual adjustment and automatic spindle stabilization.

Very convenient milling machines with systems soft start and quick stop. And if the tool allows you to replace the motor brushes without opening the case, then there will be no price for it at all. This is a really significant plus.

In many operating instructions, manufacturers of milling machines advise against using it in upside down work. In general, these restrictions are not justified and can be ignored.

Tip: choose a router with a power of at least 2 kilowatts to confidently work with any tree. It should also have a speed control, as a rule, it is on all models. As for whether it’s worth buying brands like Bosch or Makita, my opinion is that if you do it professionally and every day, it’s worth it, but if for yourself, then an inexpensive Chinese is enough.

DIY milling table video

Milling table base

An important part of the tool is a special frame (bed). This is a frame on supports, on top of which there is a countertop. The bed can be made from any material: metal, wood, chipboard, etc.

The main thing is that it be rigid and stable. Size doesn't really matter either. It all depends on what size parts you will be working with.

To ensure comfortable work of the machine operator, the lower part of the bed must be deepened.

Due to this, the operator does not cling to the structure with his feet during work. We advise you to make a bed with adjustable supports that will allow you to work on any uneven floors.

A do-it-yourself wood milling machine is notable for its huge selection of creation options. You can create it completely for yourself.

table top

There is nothing complicated here. One option is the usual kitchen countertop covered with special plastic. On plastic, the workpiece will glide perfectly, and the board will dampen vibrations well.

Table router mounting plate

A plate with high strength at low thickness. As a rule, it is made of metal or textolite ( last option easier to use).

plate rectangular shape, in the center of which a hole is made. After that, the router is attached to the mounting plate. In order to fix the tool with the plate to the table, four holes must be drilled at the corners of the plate.

The easiest do-it-yourself milling table, drawings

So we got to the point of this article. So how to assemble a wood milling machine with your own hands? First, a tabletop is temporarily attached to the finished frame (frame). Then a mounting plate is placed on the countertop and its position is marked. Next, with the help of a milling cutter, on the countertop choose seat for the plate.

It should fit perfectly with the top plane of the countertop. In conclusion, it is necessary to mill the hole according to the shape of the sole of the router and connect it all together. Of course, you will have to tinker with some points, but the main thing is to follow all the instructions.

Top clamp

For more comfortable work, the table can be equipped with an upper clamp. A regular ball bearing will do.

It will allow you to tightly fix the workpiece. This will allow you to improve the quality and speed of work, as well as save your nerves and effort.

Security

We need to focus on the most important thing - safety. First, it is recommended to install a protective screen for the cutter. Secondly, equip the tool with an emergency stop button. The button should be in an easily accessible place for you, but at the same time, not interfere with your work. Thirdly, the working area can be additionally illuminated.

All these points will only add comfort to your work, because you cannot save on safety. Create for health.

To make a router with your own hands, you will need to make drawings. The diagrams indicate the key details of the design and their parameters.

The accuracy of the work performed depends on the power of the router.

Design features

The milling machine is used for edging, chamfering and decorative carving. The milling cutter, which is used for working with soft metal, is equipped with special knives. The unit in question consists of the following parts:

motor;
spindle;
cutter.

Scheme of the machine for milling.

The working cutter is located on the spindle, which is supplied with rotation from the motor. Some tools of this type operate on 1-phase AC power. Craft manual homemade router possible with a small DC motor.

The choice of cutter depends on the material to be processed and the purpose of the tool. Used for woodworking simple designs at low speed. It is more difficult to design an assembly for working on metal, because this material has a higher strength and rigidity.

When the device is connected to the mains, the spindle rotates, and sharp knives cut the material (wood, metal). The spindle must be made of a durable material that meets certain standards of hardness and rigidity. The speed of rotation affects the accuracy of the work. The number of revolutions depends on the density of the raw material. Experts recommend making homemade apparatus with a regulator.

Aggregate classification

According to the method of application, manual routers are classified as top, lamellar and edge units. Top routers are submersible (with a movable motor) and fixed (with a motor fixed in one position). The classification of narrow-profile units depends on the material being processed and the parts:

to work with GKL;
tenoning machines;
to create grooves.

You can assemble a vertical milling cutter for woodworking with your own hands from an electric motor, a cutter and a cartridge. The engine is removed from any electrical appliance, and the cartridge from the perforator. The base (chipboard or PVC sheets) is attached to the motor. The engine and cartridge are connected with a special adapter. If necessary, this work is entrusted to specialists. Then select and install knives. The device is ready for use. An independent CNC device is used to create products designed on a computer ( laser cutting drilling, milling and engraving).

Universal Device

On the basis of the obtained apparatus, it is possible to manufacture universal machine. For this, a bed is used. The machine will fit for rough woodworking, but it will not be possible to perform accurate high-quality work with it due to the fact that it does not work at high speed.

To create a multifunctional machine you will need:

MDF board (1.5x1.5 m);
accessories.

A drill and a jigsaw are used to cut parts. The finished machine is not suitable for working with solid metal. In the manufacture of a CNC machine, an aluminum profile with a section of 80x40x4 mm is required, which is cut into beams (4 - 460 mm each, 2 - 1300 mm each).

To the benefits manual router with their own hands, experts include:

suitable for most surfaces;
affordable cost;
ease of use;
ease of assembly;
inexpensive service.

The revolutions of a standard motor from a household appliance are not enough to ensure high-quality processing. This shortcoming can be overcome by equipping the structure powerful engine. To do this, use a motor from a modern puncher.

For shallow sampling of wood blanks, a motor with a power of up to 500 W is used, but it will stall. Experts recommend installing a motor with a power of 1100 watts. Processing wood in normal mode with any type of milling cutter allows a drive of 1 - 2 kW.

Then you need to decide on turnover. The cut will be more accurate if there are more revolutions. With motors designed for a 220 V network, connection will not cause difficulties. three-phase asynchronous motor connected according to a special "star - triangle" scheme. The wiring diagram ensures smooth start-up of the machine and operation with high power.

Conclusion on the topic

Before you do homemade device, it is recommended to find out its working principle. When the axis starts to rotate, the carriage with the motor moves up or down along it. The skids act as guide stops. The screw is necessary for fixed fixation of the carriage after its height adjustment. The supporting body is attached from below to the cover of the workbench, holding the structure.

The carriage with the motor must be securely fixed and immobilized to ensure uniform sampling. The removal of the swing arm from the side and equipping it with homemade gears will make the design easy to use.

If there is no finished table, then in its manufacture take into account the fact that different materials behave differently during operation. Wooden table not resistant to moisture, but absorbs vibrations well.

Guides for the stop can be made of plywood or chipboard. This will allow you to adjust the horizontal position. In the manufacture and use of the tool, safety measures must be observed.

Router lift in this table:

Part 1 - https://youtu.be/RA4-75ijmWg

Part 2 - https://youtu.be/GHqP4Wceu08

March 2015. I finally decided to make a table for the Bosch 1400 ACE hand router, because the last time with the bed (and there I had to mill all the edges of all the details) I was very tormented and spent a lot of time.

The design is hardly unique, because any carpentry fan has already made and laid out his own table for a router, but this is my version and it will not be superfluous for experience and review. As always, a lot was decided in the process and improvised, for example, to fix the router on the bottom of the table, its side stop helped me a lot, or rather the pins from the side stop. On the other hand, dismantling the router is quite problematic now, but this is the first router table and it does its job.

The milling table from a manual milling cutter is simply a necessary thing. You will understand this when you run any detail in a couple of seconds. Previously, each part had to be pressed against the table with clamps, make a passage, change clamps, finish the passage, turn the part over, etc.

A table for a milling cutter solves all this instantly, and most importantly, it cost about 500 rubles, while ready-made tables cost an order of magnitude and many times more.

Second part: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF7BVRbK4hE

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I think that those home craftsmen who have a manual router, but do not have a table for a router, have repeatedly thought about buying or making a table for a router. Since using a milling cutter stationary, the convenience of working with it greatly increases, especially when working with small elements.

But for a home workshop, a table is often not justified, both for financial reasons, for example, like in my apartment. Therefore, as an option, you can use a small homemade milling table that is attached to a universal workbench or even to a regular table.

The simplest milling table

You can also make a table from an ordinary piece of chipboard or plywood by screwing a milling cutter to it.

But you will need to take a material thick enough to have the necessary rigidity, and thick material will reduce the exit of the cutter and thereby reduce the depth of the grooves being machined. Therefore, all the same, it is worth making a box to the countertop, which will provide rigidity and reduce the thickness of the countertop.

In addition, it is very useful if the table has a side stop with adjustment and with the possibility of attaching a vacuum cleaner.

Removing shavings and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner is very important when working in an apartment, and in the workshop, order and cleanliness will not interfere either.

This article describes the manufacture of such a table for a router with your own hands.

Starting with a box

First of all, a table box is made, this will require two pieces of thick plywood 18-21mm, which are glued together with PVA glue and pulled together with clamps.

In total, we need 4 blanks.

In one of the blanks, using a hacksaw, we cut two grooves for the clamps. In this case, on the width of the groove, we make several cuts with a hacksaw, and remove the remains of plywood between the cuts with a chisel and a hammer.

We make a countertop

It is necessary to cut out the countertop, apply markings (the exit point of the cutter and holes for fasteners) for a specific router.

We mark the holes for the screws securing the tabletop to the box.

When everything is marked, we drill all the holes with a drill, and you also need to countersink into the holes for the screws, then the countersunk screw will be deepened, will not protrude beyond the surface of the tabletop and therefore will not interfere when moving workpieces along the surface of the milling table.

Assembling the table

To do this, we need screws and a screwdriver.

Here is the base of the table.

When the table is assembled, two rods need to be twisted into the box through the table top.

A rod is used on one side of which there is a “thread like a screw”, and on the other, a regular thread for a nut.

In the future, at these degrees, with the help of lambs, a side stop for the router will be installed.

Side stop

We proceed to the manufacture of the side stop.

To do this, we need two pieces of plywood.

DIY milling tables (drawings, videos and diagrams)

One workpiece will be pressed against the table, and the part being machined by the milling cutter will slide along the second.

We drill holes through which the two workpieces will be combined into a single whole. We zenk them.

We make cutouts for the cutter with a Forstner drill.

With a hacksaw, we refine the cutouts for the cutter and make grooves for the clamping mechanism of the side stop.

Using rectangular plywood blanks, we assemble two blanks of the side stop at 90 degrees.

We assemble a box for connecting a vacuum cleaner.

Now you need to embed the nozzle in the dust removal box and screw the box itself to the side stop.

It remains only to press the side stop to the table for a manual router with the help of lambs.

Here such an elegant and compact table for a router with their own hands can be made by anyone who knows how to hold a tool in their hands.

And this is a milling cutter in the table in the process of removing a quarter with a straight groove cutter.

In the future, it would be worth making a protective screen for the cutter, spot lighting working area and an emergency stop button.

DIY milling table tips

When buying a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks and scope of work performed for it. Therefore, the master, thinking about buying, is trying to find a universal option, to combine the accuracy in processing on the machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.

In this article, we will consider a compromise option - a do-it-yourself table for a manual router, drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.

To make a do-it-yourself milling table, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or buy ready-made version, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.

The working process of a hand mill is to move the tool along the plane of the workpiece.

If the milling cutter is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then the manual machine becomes a milling machine. It takes a little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.

A number of milling operations are preferably performed only in a stationary position - the selection of grooves and grooves, all kinds of ways to process the edges of products and the laying of tenon joints.

The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location.

It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.

Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands.

The design of the portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual milling cutter from the structure, and after completing the work, mount it again.

The main elements of the milling table

Consider the option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to do with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.

It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:

bed;
countertop;
mounting plate;
longitudinal stop;
clamping combs.

bed

You can assemble a table for a manual router with your own hands from improvised materials (cutting plywood sheet, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes).

We put together a frame for the machine from boards or use old table, nightstand.
Anything that will allow you to respond rigidly and stably to the vibration of the milling machine and will perform the functions of the supporting structure of the machine will do.

Making the machine frame with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself.

Homemade table for a manual router

Only when taking into account the characteristics of the operator (height, arm length, etc.), the workflow will take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.

table top

For a work surface, it is convenient to use a kitchen worktop.

But this option is relevant if you have changed kitchen furniture and the old countertop is lying idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.

The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a strong and reliable table for a manual router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the supply of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.

The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the dimensions of the workpieces being processed, the width of the tabletop changes, and the depth and thickness are unchanged.

The figure shows a worktop, the dimensions of which are suitable for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is not mandatory, each master changes them for specific conditions and requirements.

A hole is cut in the center of the tabletop for mounting a milling machine.

The dimensions of this hole are larger than the mounting plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded to install the mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the fold is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the table surface.

For greater machine functionality and workpiece processing different sizes grooves are selected in the tabletop.

They are equipped with a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal pressure comb in the required position.

Mounting plate

The mounting plate is needed to secure the router to the table.

It is made of durable materials such as: metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. For fastening, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used. For ease of control over the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.

The plate should fit snugly into its seat on the machine table top.

Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over mounting the router directly to the bottom of the tabletop. The small thickness of the plate increases the depth of milling and allows you to easily dismantle the router with your own hands. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter being used. The cutter diameter ranges from 3mm to 76mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with changeable rings to change the cutter hole.

Longitudinal stop

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required, which guides the workpiece along the table.

A do-it-yourself result of work will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the countertop. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.

A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction.

Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working body, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.

Longitudinal stop (front view)

Longitudinal stop (rear view)

Pressure combs

To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.

The vertical comb is placed on the stop structure.

Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the comb moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.

The horizontal clamping stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves along and across in a horizontal plane.

If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table with your own hands, with which you can adjust a comfortable height for work.
For the durability of the equipment, the wood parts of the milling table are covered with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
Mount the protective glass on the longitudinal stop, which will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
Wear gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
Do not wear loose-fitting clothing.
Use handheld routers with a power rating greater than 1100W.
Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank.

Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:

before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
do not apply great force when milling (too much feed will damage the tool);
install the cutter in the collet at 3/4 of the shank length, but not close, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
using cutters large diameter, reduce the rotation speed;
disconnect the tool from the power supply before carrying out adjustment and maintenance;
keep an eye on the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged copies.

DIY milling machine

DIY milling table: drawings, photos, videos

Translated by SaorY for mozgochiny.ru

Everyone brain artisans Good day!

For those of you who don't have large workshops or small tool shelving, this will come in handy. homemade this article, which compactly fits all useful tools, and which can be easily moved to other work sites.

When creating this brain crafts I tried to make it as compact as possible so that it can be conveniently used even in a small space, and moved even if you don’t have a car.

To do this, she has transport wheels, and move under the tree you can do it alone, but if you still use a car for this, you will only need a little help with loading.

This compact machine homemade includes: circular table, router table and jigsaw. And it also has a large cabinet in which you can store your other tools.

Useful link

To show under the tree in action I'll make a couple of boxes out of cheap pine boards.
The video shows how I cut the boards for the drawers on the circular table using a slide, to get the required dimensions I use an additional bar with a clamp.

Then I make a groove for the base.
The desired angle can be obtained using the corner stop with a guide.
By removing the pad, you can set the angle of the disc, in this case 45 degrees.
The guide of the jigsaw is adjustable in three axes, thus it is possible to use blades of different sizes - from 100 to 180mm, thereby obtaining a maximum cutting height of 70mm.

Next, I make a drawer handle, and for this I use a milling cutter, with which I make a rounded chamfer. There is also a guide for the corner stop, and an outboard bearing will be useful for milling curved lines. The router itself can be tilted at an angle of 45°.
The box is ready, and it takes its place.

The tongue-and-groove connection is possible on this braintable do it in two ways. Firstly, with the help of a jigsaw, an additional bar and an angle stop.

And secondly, on a circular table, using a special jig.

With the disk itself big size which can be installed on homemade(235mm), you can get a maximum cut of 70mm. There are small adjustment bolts on the rail to reduce the tilt and even lock if necessary.

To connect the parts, I chose the second method, for this some parts should be placed on one side of the jig, and others on the other.

And that's what happened, go to the router, this time we are already using a clamping device to make a groove in the base. To do this, raise the circular saw and set the router at an angle of 45 °.

Step 1: Cutting the Parts

The creation of a multifunctional table begins - homemade with cutting all the details and their numbering.
Further, to obtain a slot for the handle, 4 corner holes are drilled and “finished” with a jigsaw.

Holes are then drilled the same size as the diameter and thickness of the washer of the opening system. The holes are countersinking.

After that, a place is prepared for installing the power and emergency shutdown buttons. Then, with the help of dowels and 50mm self-tapping screws, the body is assembled braintable.

On request, body parts are varnished, so craft will look better and last longer.

Having prepared the body, 3 upper parts are assembled. To do this, the details of the folding frames are cut and the necessary holes are drilled in them. The hole for the tube is drilled with such a diameter that this tube rotates freely in it, since it is the axis of rotation of the hinged covers.

Then a cavity is selected for a circular saw. I did this with my 3D router, in the absence of a similar one, this can be done with a regular router using the appropriate jig and guides.

FROM front side cover of the circular table, a cavity is selected for a quick-detachable panel, by removing which it will be possible to change the angle of inclination of the disk.

The panel itself can be used to set the cavity milling depth.

Having installed the circular saw in the intended cavity, holes are marked for its fastening. A 3D router is well suited for this, because on drilling machine these holes cannot be drilled due to its limited working surface.

Step 2: Beginning the Assembly

At this stage, the gradual assembly of the portable multi-functional machine for the workshop begins. do-it-yourselfer.

The groove for the guide is marked and selected using a circular table. Two additional plywood will give the necessary depth for a solid fastening of the guide rail. Next, a bar is attached to the lid with a self-adhesive tape measure applied to it.

After that, a hole for the router is drilled. Then the tubes for the axes of rotation are cut off and the frames of the hinged covers are mounted on the body. In accordance with the drawings, fixing props are manufactured and installed.

A router cover is applied to the frame, aligned and fastened with screws through holes in the guide channel.

Then the cover of the jigsaw is prepared, a groove is selected in it for this same jigsaw. If a non-slip material, such as melamine, is used for the lid, the surface of the lid should be varnished, alternating with sanding.

Having done this, the details of the mechanism of the vertical lift of the milling cutter are cut out and assembled, with the help of which the depth of milling will be adjusted.

A hole is drilled in them of the same diameter, or suitable, as when creating the router cover. This holder brain-milling machine can be made on a CNC machine or even ordered online.

The finished router holder is attached to the vertical lift, and now you can try it in action.

To mark the radius of the tilt grooves, ordinary loops are temporarily attached to the vertical lift, and plywood scraps are used to make turntable handles.

Step 3: Completing the Build

This assembly stage homemade I will start with those details that I forgot about earlier. They will give stability to the lifting system.

To begin with, the base parts are cut, I did this on my circular table, then they are assembled into a frame that is attached to the bottom of the multifunctional case braintable. The height of this frame should be the same as the height of the existing wheels.

A latch is attached to the flaps of one of the hinged covers, and a lock is attached to the flaps of the other. This may be useful when transporting crafts and act as a preventive measure against the theft of your instrument.

The socket for the circular saw is connected through the power button and the emergency shutdown button. The extension cord is wound on special handles made for this purpose.

The quick release panels are made from opal methacrylate. They are placed in their places, and the slot in the panel of the circular saw is carefully made by the saw itself. As a guide bearing, I used an accessory from the kit of an old router.

This fixture will be useful when milling curved lines.

After that, the level checks the plane of the entire upper part crafts if they do not lie in the plane of the central part, then this is easily corrected by adjusting the inclination of the fixing supports.

milling table for manual router

Next, the perpendicularity of the working parts of the tools and the plane of the table is checked. To check the router, a tube is fixed in it, along which the perpendicularity of the axis of the router and the plane of the table looks, and the parallelism of the channel of the guide and the circular disk is also checked. And finally, the perpendicularity of the jigsaw blade is checked.

After that, the table tops are folded up to check if they interfere braintools each other.

Step 4: Useful Tools

This step is about making some useful accessories for the table - homemade.

First of all, the details of the sled are cut, then a groove is selected for the slider of the guide. After that, two plywood parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, while the positions of the screws should be chosen so that they do not interfere with the subsequent refinement of this part.

Then a measuring tape is glued onto it in a specially prepared groove, and this accessory for braintable varnished, alternating with grinding, thereby creating the necessary smooth surface on this device.

Slides are assembled, placed on the multifunctional homemade and the excess is cut off from them and the middle cut is cut, and then the measuring tape is also glued.

The guide slider is unscrewed from the sleigh and a groove is made for the tenon-groove conductor. Same as my other circular table.

The channel slider is adjusted so that the roll between the bolts disappears. The slider itself can, if necessary, be stopped by simply twisting the bot to the maximum.

Dowels glued into this fixing system are used as guiding axles. At the end of the assembly of the rack, the handle of the fixing system is made, and then the entire rack is tested in action.

Additionally, a dust collector for the router is installed on the rack, and in lateral side brain-resistant at the dust collector, threaded bushings for the pressure panel are screwed.

Having done this, the parallelism of the rack and the circular disk is checked, then a measuring tape is glued into the groove of the side wall.

Having finished with this, the details of the tenon-groove conductor are cut, which are then glued and cleaned.

Step 5: Some More Useful Tools

This is the last video of this brainguide, and its first part shows how to make a corner stop (to create it, you can stick a printed template or use a ruler). The stop blank can already be cut on the multifunctional machine itself.

The thread in the guide slider is inch, but if metric is needed, then you will have to use a tap.

Be sure to temporarily screw the stop blank to the guide to make sure that the turning radius is done correctly.

Then, the details of the spiked conductor are cut, while it is necessary to slightly increase the thickness of the conductor fastening to reduce friction.

To make a pressure panel, a template is glued onto a plywood blank, the adjustment grooves for this panel are selected using a milling cutter brain machine. In the right places of the cover with a milling cutter, threaded bushings are mounted.

First, the bearing adjustment system is assembled, a metal plate is used to avoid wear on the plywood.

One of the holes is made large in order to adjust the bearings through this.

The same is done with plywood.

After that, the height adjustment system is mechanized, and now the structure can move in three axes, thereby obtaining the desired position.

Finally, the finished saw guide can be tested in action, while it is important to hold the sawn board with both hands so that it fits firmly enough to the table plane.

About the compact multifunctional homemade Anyway, good luck with your work!

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Professional processing and manufacturing wooden parts only possible with a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since the milling cutter does not move along the surface being machined, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives more opportunities for processing parts. As a result, the blanks of products are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work.

compact homemade construction replace industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and unmovable.
Portable - has compact dimensions and is relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Construction scheme

For self-manufacturing of countertops, MDF boards are usually used, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, light in weight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is prone to corrosion, so it must be painted.

Milling table tops must be smooth. Often they are made of plastic or metal. These tables are perfect flat surface which is immune to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for the longitudinal stop fasteners. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the manufactured models of countertops are made of MDF boards or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the sole of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminium. The plate for the router must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the insert protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices to level the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the work surface of the milling table.

Create convenience in selecting the diameter of the cutter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixed overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. More about self-manufacturing you can read this design.

Necessary tools and materials

Joiner's glue.
Bolts with nuts.
Screws.
MDF board and birch plywood
Electric jigsaw.
Spanners.
Sandpaper.
Ruler.
Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden poles or between two pedestals. Most in a simple way creating a countertop, a supporting part and parts for a milling table will use an MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table, we used:

1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the top of the table will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a single 19mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a replacement for this material.

Sawing sheet material into fragments according to the specified sizes.

1 - working surface; 2 - emphasis base; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not match the specified parameters or be defective.

It is necessary to remove the plastic lining from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking the cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template when marking

On the largest sawn part No. 1, 90x70 cm in size, make markings for the cutter. To do this, it is necessary to draw a line in the middle at a distance of 235 mm from the edge, putting a mark. Then place the overlay so that the router adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be fixed with screws.

Mounting holes must match the trim

Measure the diameter of the lining and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicular to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

Fasten four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the table top with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy as glue.

Glue the rest of the blanks and secure them with screws. Install a router on the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

Now you need to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - external side stand; 2 - internal rack; 3 - rear rack; 4 - base

Cut plywood into pieces according to size.
Assemble the table structure, fixing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

Then you need to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut out a square from the specified material, the sides of which are equal to 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the overlay and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the cutter to handle the details as much as possible

As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. On the countertop, draw and cut a cutout, the edges of which are processed with sandpaper.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them with reverse side countertops with a 11 mm drill. Lay the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the sole of the router. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten it with screws.

The holes of the worktop and the plate must match

For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stop make the process convenient

Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for fastening clamps, linings and protective devices.
To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a piece of 140x178 mm in size from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

For a stop, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience.

For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out the details from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a clamp-comb, it is better to use maple wood. To cut the part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood fibers. Ridge slots are best done circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix details when processing small fragments

Fix the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work. Clear All wooden elements from dust and cover with oil.

Safety

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it are possible. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the countertop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the scattering of particles.

While working at the table, it is unacceptable to clean and lubricate parts, remove the protective screen and measure workpieces. Protective goggles must be worn to prevent the flying particles from getting into the eyes. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place hands close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure that they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correctness of sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a do-it-yourself milling table

Thanks to relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact design of the milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

Having received garden plot, I started carpentry. After 10-15 years, I have accumulated a collection of power tools in my workshop, numbering 27 items. A special place in it is occupied by a manual milling machine, which allows an amateur carpenter to make professional objects from wood. good quality. With its help, it is possible to quickly and accurately profile edges and make connections. However, soon to work with a milling machine as hand tool I became uncomfortable.

I first felt the need to have a milling machine when I was making a wooden grate for a bath: I had to make 40 oval planks. I had to build a simple milling table. I installed a chipboard sheet with a hole in the middle on a metal frame, attached an old milling machine to a 10 mm plywood sheet and fixed it to the chipboard - the milling table is ready. It was convenient to work with him, but soon I wanted better.

Having studied a dozen and a half homemade sites, I realized that it is possible to make a very good milling machine, moreover, in budget option. Started with project development.

The main dimensions of the machine were determined by two products I have: a metal frame picked up at a landfill and a 2050 W SPARKY X 205CE hand mill.

Do-it-yourself milling table for a router: drawings

The classic milling machine, made on the basis of a manual router, consists of six main elements: a bed 1, a worktop 2, a mounting plate 3, a manual router 4, a lift 5 that allows you to adjust the cutter overhang, and a longitudinal stop 6.

Milling table top

A mounting plate is used to mount the router on a tabletop. Attaching the router to the insert plate has two advantages over attaching it directly to the underside of the table top. Firstly, the plate saves 6-10 mm of cutting depth compared to mounting the router to a cover with a thickness of 20 mm or more. Secondly, the plate makes it easy to remove the router for changing tools.

For making mounting plate (Fig. 2) I used a 10 mm lavsan textolite sheet. The location of the mounting holes from the sole of the router was transferred to paper, and from paper to the plate. I made a hole d61 mm in the center of the plate and milled a fold in it for installing interchangeable liners for a specific cutter.

Cut the table top to size. I marked out the necessary holes, grooves and an opening for the mounting panel according to the drawing. Cut out the opening with a jigsaw.

Prepared guide bars for the copy cutter. The height of the bars should be such that the copy cutter with the upper bearing is in constant contact with them when processing the rebate.

I installed the mounting plate on the countertop, secured two long bars with clamps and attached two short ones to them using a stapler (photo 7). To ensure a guaranteed gap between the fold and the mounting plate, I used thin spacers 0.2 mm thick on each side.

For reliability, I attached the short guide bars to the long ones using small squares.

Removed the plate and gaskets. I installed a copy cutter with an upper bearing in the collet of the router. Leaning the sole of the router on the guide bars, set the milling depth of 2 mm in the table top. I made several shallow cuts, increasing the overhang of the cutter until it reached a depth of 0.5 mm more than the thickness of the mounting plate.

He took off the copy bars. I cleaned the edges of the fold and opening with the help of a skin.

Using the mounting plate as a template, I drilled mounting holes in the corners. On the reverse side of the tabletop, I installed mortise furniture nuts into the mounting holes.

I milled three grooves for aluminum guides using a 19 mm cutter, which I fixed in the grooves with self-tapping screws. The tabletop of the milling machine is ready.

Elevator for milling table

The next node of the milling machine, which deserves special attention, is the mechanism for feeding the cutter into the cutting zone, or the elevator. The cost of a professional elevator sold in stores reaches 50-60 thousand rubles. This is a high-precision and convenient mechanism, but for the purposes of amateur carpenters, it is, of course, redundant.

When developing my own elevator design, I set myself the goal of using the maximum number of purchased parts. The easiest way to solve the problem of the translational movement of the milling spindle is with the help of a pair of screw / nut: when the nut is fixed from axial movements, the screw performs translational movement.

The design of the elevator is shown in figure 4. As a moving element, I used a M16 bolt 200 mm long. For support, I used a long M16 nut, which I welded to a steel plate. The bolt is driven by a handwheel attached to it through a welded support washer.