Beds for the lazy: photos, ideas, ways to implement them. Vegetable Garden Planning - Secrets to a Successful Harvest

Country geography: how to properly place the beds.

How to properly place beds and fruit trees on your site
The harvest has long been harvested, and it is snowing outside the window. It would seem that it's time to take a break from summer troubles, but the thoughts of many gardeners are already devoted to the future summer season: what and where to plant, what fertilizers and seeds to buy, how much and what kind of film is needed for greenhouses and hotbeds ...
And it seems that there is nothing complicated here - just place potatoes, cabbage, carrots, beets, onions and garlic, green crops on their hundred square meters, because everything else: trees, shrubs, raspberries and strawberries have long had their legal seats.

But in practice, everything turns out to be more complicated - you have to compare a lot of different factors in order to accept, sometimes, only one correct solution. Moreover, for this it is not enough to know which crops are light-loving and which are shade-tolerant - you also need to take into account the fertility of a particular site, which crops grew here in the past, and preferably, and not only in the past year, and which crops will grow nearby peacefully and without conflicts.

Therefore, really enthusiastic gardeners and gardeners have to plan and account for their garden no less painstakingly than accountants do their reporting. For example, my grandfather had a huge ledger with detailed plans garden-garden for several decades, starting from the 50s. In fact, for so many years, information is not needed - in most cases, it is enough to have data for 3-4 years, but here the grandfather’s truly accounting nature has already affected.

Everything is simpler for me, since a computer is at hand, and it’s enough for me to simply record the year on the plan once drawn in the corresponding program and note where and what crops I grew. But most probably still have to draw such a plan by hand - in this case, it is more reasonable to draw a plan once indicating trees, shrubs, greenhouses, hotbeds and permanent ridges, then take a dozen photocopies, and mark the crops planted in each one year or another - it will be much faster.

How to agree on all the pros and cons
Even if you have all the necessary information, finding the right solution can be difficult. You start to place, and it seems that almost everything was planned out, but at the last stage it turns out that, for example, there is a garden bed left for cabbage, on which this same cabbage grew the year before last and at the same time was sick with keel. So, you can’t land her here, and everything starts all over again. Again, we have to redo the plan, look for a new solution and draw it again.

If you are familiar with this situation and give yourself a headache every year by planning and moving crops around the garden again, then try interesting solution, which I recently read about (I don’t need it, since I do everything on a computer, but most gardeners will probably come in handy). True, to use this approach, you must have rectangular beds that are close in size, and each vegetable must be planted on its own bed (that is, not in the company of others).

In this case, you can plan like this: take last year's site plan (or better, plans for 3-4 years) and Blank sheet paper. Draw this sheet into identical rectangles and write on them: potatoes, cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, etc., listing everything that you plan to plant. Moreover, if you always occupy two ridges with garlic, then, accordingly, there should be two rectangles with the name "garlic", etc. Cut the paper into separate rectangles and start on your plan to assemble a puzzle called "an entertaining garden", placing the ridges-rectangles in the right way on the chosen places of your plan. It’s not scary to make a mistake here, because. it's easy to fix everything by moving the "wrong" rectangle to a new location. Try it, and this method will be much easier than playing all the situations in your head and repeatedly and painstakingly redrawing your plan.

What factors should be considered when planning a garden?

First, all vegetables love a sunny place. Only green crops, which include onion on a feather, and perennial bows like chives and slime, partially put up with partial shade. This means that in a small shade of a house, a fence, trees and shrubs, you can sow and plant onions and some herbs. Although you won’t get a big harvest in this case, you still can’t grow anything else in these places.

The second is the compatibility of vegetables: who is good with whom or, conversely, bad. Cabbage does not live with tomatoes and beans. Cucumber - with potatoes. Tomatoes - with fennel. Potatoes - with tomatoes and pumpkin. Peas and beans are very unpleasant onions and garlic, radishes - hyssop. Only now carrots get along with everyone, although from the point of view of protection against carrot flies, it is preferable to sow it in company with onions. It was about bad neighbors.
What about good ones? Here are other examples. All vegetables of the celery family (carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery) go well with the onion family: onions, garlic, leeks, shallots. White and black radish work well with other vegetables. Radish grows very well between rows of bush beans - it becomes very large, tasty and not wormy. Potatoes do not interfere with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish and onions. But each individually, because in this group there are several irreconcilable couples.
Onions, celery, potatoes, dill and lettuce are compatible with cabbage. Tomatoes can be planted next to green and cabbage crops, asparagus and beans. Peas can coexist with carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, radishes, corn. Etc.

The third rule is no less important - it must be borne in mind that the phytoncides secreted by some plants repel pests of other crops or prevent some diseases from developing. For example, onion phytoncides repel carrot flies, and carrot phytoncides repel onion flies. Dill protects cucumbers from diseases, and onions and garlic protect tomatoes. If you plant strong-smelling plants near cabbages, such as celery, thyme, or sage, they will drown out the smell of cabbage and make it less attractive to pests. And it’s good to plant basil near beans to protect against bean weevil, garlic near roses to protect against aphids, parsley near asparagus.

When planning, it is also necessary to take into account the predecessors, that is, whether a suitable vegetable grew last season in the place where you will plant another in the spring. And here again there are numerous schemes! And the most important thing to learn is that you cannot plant the same culture in the same place. And besides, you can not place cabbage after any cabbage and beets. Beets - after beets, cabbage and tomatoes. Tomatoes - after all nightshades and peas.

The fifth thing to consider is the long-term rotation of crops, a 3-4 year perspective. Here it is even more difficult. Agronomy teaches you to rotate vegetables according to their nutritional needs, in particular, in organic matter. Conventionally, in the first year (i.e., on fresh organics), they grow cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage of medium and late deadlines ripening, leeks, etc., that is, those crops for which organics need to be applied a lot. In the second year they are replaced by onions, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes. The third is the turn of root crops (carrots, beets, radishes, etc.), which have to add a fair portion of mineral fertilizers.

Features of garden planning
With a garden, it gets even more difficult, because we plant vegetables every year, and if one year your planning was unsuccessful, then perhaps the next year everything will be much better.
We place trees and shrubs in permanent places for a long time, and once planted apple trees will supply you with fruits for the rest of your life. Therefore, when drawing up a garden plan, it is necessary to allocate separate permanent places for each species of trees, for vegetables, for flowers, and everything must be correctly calculated in advance where and what will grow in 10-20 years. And there are a lot of rules too.

The first rule is that each group of crops (fruit trees, berry bushes, vegetable and ornamental crops) has a permanent place. A common mistake is the combined arrangement of crops, when vegetables, strawberries, berry bushes are placed among young apple and pear trees. At first everything turns out well: the trees do not take up much space, there is enough light and nutrition for other plants. But over time, the trees grow, and then the intermediate crops fall into the shade, their productivity becomes low. Therefore, the first rule of site planning is to allocate a separate permanent place for each crop. Of course, you can temporarily grow berry bushes, strawberries and vegetables among vigorous tree species, but then, when a strong blackout occurs, they will have to be removed and moved somewhere else, which you need to think about in advance.

The second rule is to provide for the possibility of renewing strawberries, plantations of berry bushes, cherry and plum trees. Let's say strawberries bear fruit well in one place for 2-3 years. In the fourth or, in extreme cases, the fifth year of fruiting, it must be completely eliminated. Therefore, one bed is vacated every year in order to grow vegetables here next year, and a bed of vegetables is planted with strawberries.

Therefore, it is more convenient to attribute strawberries not to a garden, but to a vegetable garden and change strawberry ridges with vegetable ones. Currant, gooseberry and raspberry bushes can theoretically bear fruit in one place for a very long time, and it all depends on proper care. It is more profitable (from the point of view of saving your own time) to take care of these crops well and regularly cut and spray, then in one place, subject to rejuvenating pruning, they can bear fruit for 10, 15 years or more. And everything will be fine. And if you take care of them poorly, then they will not last long, the bushes will weaken from diseases, pests, malnutrition and thickening, and you will have to look for them somewhere else and start growing and shaping again.

The third planning rule is respect for the rights of a neighbor. Your trees should not greatly obscure the neighboring area. The distance from the tree trunk to the boundary should be at least half the generally accepted row spacing: for vigorous trees 3.5-4 m, for medium-sized trees - 2.0-2.5 m. Currants, gooseberries, raspberries can be planted in the strip between the trees and the boundary . And in no case should you plant tall trees and shrubs 20 cm from the border, which, alas, is not uncommon.

The fourth planning rule is to reduce the height of plants as you approach the house. In order for the housing to be dry and bright, it is necessary to place the lowest plants near the house - flowers, lawn grasses, part of strawberries, vegetables, shrubs, and tall trees should be taken away, deep into the site.

The fifth rule is to take into account the characteristics of certain plants. From berry bushes in drier, but well-lit places, it is better to plant red currants, gooseberries, and black currants in lower, more humid (but not swampy) places. Raspberries and sea buckthorn are planted separately in specially designated areas of the site, since the first gives a lot of root offspring, and the second develops long roots that interfere with the growth and development of other plants; Strawberries are planted in places where snow is well retained in winter. Growing strawberries between fruit trees undesirable.

Chokeberry and sea buckthorn look good when planted in groups closer to home. Lemongrass and actinidia are planted near the wall of the house so that there is protection from the wind and it is possible for them to create reliable vertical supports. Barberry and lilac are planted away from all other crops (somewhere apart), because. their root secretions do not give life to other plants.

Particular attention should be paid to planning a garden for planting vegetables, do not think that this stage is not important, that you can just stick a seed or seedlings and the earth itself will give birth. In our latitudes, this, alas, is not so ...

Separately, it is worth noting that even vegetable beds can be like flower beds, no worse, and sometimes even better. In this case, your garden will become your flower garden at the same time, care will pay off handsomely, you will see that even vegetables are able to respond to care and care, like flowers. Therefore, bringing love to the site will undoubtedly affect the harvest!

What should be vegetable beds when planning a garden

The first and most important rule is that the beds should be well lit, even and dry! That is, the sun should always fall on your bed, the bed should be raised, and, of course, even.

Planting garden plan example

Please note that this scheme is presented as an example, first of all, as an idea from which you can build on in the future. I recommend paying attention to the optimization of space - the structure of the beds is made taking into account the convenience of placement vegetable crops.

The most common vegetables of the Middle Strip

In the list, I presented the most popular crops among our gardeners. Of course, it does not make sense to plant everything, it is better to choose some of them.

root crops — radish, radish, parsley, carrot, beetroot, celery.
fruit — eggplant, pepper, cucumber, tomatoes, corn, peas, beans, pumpkin.
Tuberous — potato.
Cabbage — cauliflower, brussels, white head, savoy, kohlrabi.
Onion — onion, garlic, leek.
perennials — horseradish, rhubarb, asparagus.
Spicy flavor — watercress, sage, marjoram, cumin, dill, thyme.

Small garden layout example

The diagram suggests the optimal combination of vegetables, this garden bed can be used as the basis for a future garden.

original garden plan

A fairly ergonomic example of organizing beds, you can reach all the plants and make the necessary care.

Classic raised beds - islands

It is also a fairly common variant of the beds, which has a number of advantages over simple bulk ridges without sides. Please note that in any case, it is recommended to mount a fine mesh at the bottom of each box so that the moles do not damage the crop.

Vegetable yield per square meter

I also consider it necessary to voice the concept of vegetable yield per square meter - this indicator is important for calculating the necessary planting names. The numbers reflect the ideal value of the hypothetical yield.

For example, subject to all agrotechnical rules, on one square meter you can grow 30 kg of cucumbers, 5 kg of tomatoes, 6 kg of potatoes, 4 kg of root crops (carrots, beets, etc.), 2 kg of radishes, radishes and onions, 2.5 kg of peppers, eggplants, pumpkins, zucchini, 2-3 kg of peas and beans, 1.5 kg of lettuce and dill. The figures, I repeat, are approximate, close to ideal, but we need them to plan the size of the acreage.

Divide the entire garden

Divide the space into several parts, up to 5. Depending on the desired number and type of cultivated items. Change the planting site of a particular vegetable annually, observe crop rotation. Consider the recommendations for what is better to plant. More details in the table:

There are vegetables that need and do not need organics, some fill the soil with nitrogen themselves, while others take nitrogen from the soil. Plant vegetables in the same place every 4 years.

Table of distances between plants

It should also be noted the need to respect the distances between vegetables when planting. This is important criterion for the full development of the plant and its future harvest.

Vegetable Compatibility Chart

You can use the beds effectively only if you combine plantings by mixing different compatible plants. It turns out a significant savings in space, all the details in the table:

Video on the layout of the garden and crop rotation of vegetables

For more information about the crop rotation of vegetable crops, see the video clip from the editor-in-chief of the Sadovod newspaper - Yuri Bushuev. The material is very useful for all gardeners!

Happy owners of their own land plots, whether it is a dacha or private house, almost immediately face the problem of competent zoning of the territory. There are now many specialists in landscape design, but our person is closer to planning a garden with his own hands. A house, a garden and a vegetable garden are their own, and here it is important to take into account all the nuances from the very beginning, because it will be problematic or even impossible to remake.

Common types of planning

Tip: in the vast majority of cases, when designing a standard garden and vegetable garden with their own hands, experts adhere to proportions according to which residential buildings account for 10% of the territory, 15% is taken by a recreation area and outbuildings, 75% is given to plants.

Despite the apparent diversity, the layout of the garden plot can be done in four main ways.

1. The most common is the rectilinear or parallel-perpendicular version.. He is chosen not because he has some special beauty, but rather because it is easier. Plus, such an arrangement is subconsciously associated with order.

Important: parallel-perpendicular forms, in terms of landscape design, create the effect of reducing space.
Therefore, in this way, planning can be carried out garden plot 10 acres or more.

1. The exact opposite would be the circular arrangement option.. Let's say right away that this is a rather specific method, and it requires certain knowledge in landscape design. An orchard and flower beds can be entered in this way, but it will be more difficult with a vegetable garden.
2. The diagonal arrangement can be called universal to some extent.. Thus, it can be done as a layout of a garden plot of 15 acres or more. So the arrangement on the standard six acres. The diagonal orientation creates a visual volume and at the same time makes it possible to easily arrange the location of various zones on the site with your own hands.
3. The fourth option can be safely called creative. There are no specific laws here, as a rule, it is a symbiosis of several of the types described above. Most often it is used in areas with incorrect configuration and broken perimeter lines.

Tip: Before you start implementing your project, be sure to draw it on paper.
If you have purchased a finished site, which already has some buildings and plantings that you do not plan to clean, they should be noted first of all and further build on the resulting picture.

Laws of rational distribution

Of course, it is much easier to plan the location of buildings, a garden and a vegetable garden on 10 acres, this is the very critical quadrature on which such landscape delights as an open pond or a separate playground will already look appropriate. But the owners of smaller plots should not be upset either, with a competent approach, you can make a masterpiece out of any territory.

In any project, the house is the main object, they pay attention to it in the first place, so you should start with it. The approach here can be twofold, depending on the general focus.

If the site is being developed for the purpose of growing good harvest and in the future it should be overgrown with fruit trees and a rich garden, then it is better to place the buildings on the outskirts. Moreover, from the north or north-west side, so as not to block the sun for plants.

On the territory intended exclusively for recreation, with lawns and flower beds, it is more reasonable to locate housing in the center or closer to the front part. Outbuildings, in both cases, are recommended to be hidden in the depths of the territory, if this is not possible, then they should be decorated with shrubs or vineyards.

It is better to place a recreation area with a barbecue and appropriate furniture closer to home, in small areas it is appropriate to make a covered terrace adjacent to the house, in large areas you can equip a gazebo. So it will be more convenient to bring the necessary communications. But, of course, such a zone should be hidden from prying eyes.

If you want to regularly get good harvests and admire the beauty of your flower beds all season long, then all green spaces should receive as much sunlight as possible. The layout plan is also important. orchard and a garden with your own hands, because the price of improper planting is the lack of a crop.

Arrangement of an orchard

Suppose that all the torments of creativity associated with the arrangement of various zones in your country house or in a private household are already behind us and it is time to purchase seedlings. The most common mistake young owners make is the desire to plant everything and more.

But do not forget that fertile land is not dimensionless and no more than 7 tall, fruit-bearing trees can fit on one hundred square meters.

With a low or flat planting, you can fit up to 15 healthy trees and still have room for a small vineyard and shrubs. In this case, it is much better to plant less than to invest in quality seedlings, the price of which can be rather big, and uproot the trees after a couple of seasons, because they do not develop well and interfere with the growth of neighboring plantations.

Review your list.

Think about whether you need all the plants that you plan to plant.

• Sea buckthorn is certainly useful, but after the first harvest, interest in it drops sharply. Intensive growth, thorns and problematic collection will quickly discourage growing it, it is easier to buy 1 - 2 cans on the market.
• Cultivated undersized Walnut rare, in 80% of cases they will sell you a regular one. Its crown will cover a large area, and its roots can tear out a light strip foundation. It is appropriate for large plots or next to a capital cottage, creating a shadow over the barbecue area.
• Hazelnuts will take a quarter of a hundred square meters and give a lot of shoots.
• One viburnum is enough, it is better to plant it on the outskirts, near the fence. The plant is unpretentious and normally tolerates shade.
• Chokeberry or chokeberry, for a big fan. The fruits are good for pressure, but this plant loves the sun.

Any plant reaches for the light, and until it reaches its goal, it will not bear fruit normally. Therefore, by planting a seedling in a deliberately shaded area, you doom yourself to a lack of harvest, and the plant to an eternal struggle. In this case, even the best, grafted seedlings will not save you.

The shadow is about half the height of the tree. Conditionally shaded is an area where there is no sun for half a day or more. But do not worry in these places you can place paths, design elements or flower beds.

Important: trees planted near high walls will “shy away” from them, they will need to be shaped.
The only exception is the south direction.

If the goal is big harvest then it is better to form trees with a height of no more than 2m, in some cases the height can reach up to 4m. A comfortable distance between the trunks should be two tree heights, in other words, there should be at least 4m between two-meter plants.

Lines of trees, vineyard trellises and rows of shrubs try to arrange from north to south. Thus, you get an additional opportunity to plant low-growing crops between the rows of tall plants, there will be enough sun for everyone.

A few words about the garden

In the garden, ease of movement is important. The comfortable size of the paths is made at least 40 cm. It should be convenient not only to walk on them, but also to import fertilizers or harvest.

Based on many years of experience, we can safely say that the parallel-perpendicular arrangement of the tracks is inconvenient in this case. You will constantly stumble over right angles, and scold sharp turns.

The law works on vegetable beds, the shorter the path, the better. Therefore, feel free to combine diagonals, semicircles, or any other configuration that is convenient for you.

The width of the beds can be different, but a good bed should be raised to a height of about 20 - 30 cm and edged with a border. The internal space, at the same time, is completely filled with fertile, fertilized soil.

Cabbage, root crops and some bushy legumes like beds at least 1 meter wide. Beds for climbing beans, tall spreading tomatoes, cucumbers or melons can be made 60 cm each.

You should also take into account mutual love or dislike of cultures.

• Rhubarb, sorrel, perennial onions and horseradish are recommended to be planted separately from the general array.
• A variety of greens, such as dill, parsley, spinach, arugula and other salads, will find their place between the main beds.
• Cabbage does not tolerate neighborhood with tomatoes, strawberries, onions or potatoes. Onions are negatively related to legumes or turnips. Cucumbers do not need to be combined with tomatoes, rhubarb or carrots.
• If we talk about a favorable combination, then legumes, corn and sorrel get along well with zucchini. Tomatoes like to grow next to parsley, beans, carrots or onions.

Important: do not forget about crop rotation.
Related plants should not be planted in one place for more than 3 years, after which redevelopment should be carried out.
Otherwise, land depletion may occur.

The video in this article reveals some of the secrets of landscape design and do-it-yourself garden planning.

Conclusion

The layout of the garden and vegetable garden on 15 acres belongs to the category of layout of large areas. Unlike miniature 6 acres, there is already room for creative thought to roam here. But we do not advise you to neglect the above recommendations, it can take a lot of time to correct errors.

Most of our readers have a dacha or a plot that we definitely want to keep in order and beauty. Therefore, many begin to set up gardens or vegetable gardens within the boundaries of their summer cottage, as far as acres allow. But in order to do everything beautifully and efficiently, you need to know the rules and features. Some have a developed imagination and are very fond of creative ideas, and, therefore, it will not be difficult for them. What about everyone else? With this we want to help you. In this article you will find tips on how planning is done on your own, what are the rules, how to find suitable plants and how to plant them correctly, how many beds you need and how to place them, taking into account your acres. Also, which ones can be used? decorative elements and is it worth it at all? We will post some photos in the article that you can use to create your ideas.

The easiest way to get a beautiful front lawn

Of course, you have seen the perfect lawn in the movies, on the alley, and perhaps on the neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area in their area will no doubt say that this is a huge job. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think so, professionals have long known about the innovative tool - liquid turf AquaGrazz.

To begin with, it is worth understanding what planning is and where to start it. Layout is the optimal breakdown for the site, which will ensure the most rational use of usable area for fruitful beds. But where to start? Many owners want to plant fruit trees and set up a garden on their backyard, but the question arises, is it possible to combine all this? You can always combine everything, you just need to know how to do it right. Therefore, we would suggest that you start by creating your own unique garden bed layout idea that seems perfect to you.

In order to create something of your own, look at several options for ideas on the Internet, photos on websites or in landscape design magazines. You can also find several video tutorials on the basics of design. Please note that you can create everything with your own hands, but if you think that it is difficult and painstaking, then you can use the ideas of designers or their direct services.

Step-by-step instructions for planning

We want to help you properly organize the planning work on your summer cottage so that there are no unaccounted for moments. If you decide to make a complex of vegetable and fruit plantings, then you should start with the layout.

• Create an outline of your initial idea that reflects common features that you want to see on the site. You can make a color scheme in two versions to see at once what your site will look like in the spring and autumn periods.
• Calculate the size of the plot in advance, find out how many acres are in it (most often there are plots of 4 and 6). You should know not only the general dimensions, but also some features, among which are the sizes that plants can grow to, planting should not be very tight.
• Think about where you can place your garden. We want to say that many gardeners advise to have everything on the south side. If this is not possible for you, then try to make your place sunny, but with periods of shade.

Plan where is the best place to make beds

• Write a list of plants that you would like to see in your area. It can be both vegetable beds, fruit trees, and ornamental plants and flowers. Later we will talk about the most common schemes that exist at the moment.
• Consult with experts or read for yourself to see if the plants you choose are compatible with each other. To do this, you need to study the soil and fertilizer requirements for each type of plant. As well as the frequency of their watering, the need for solar energy and more.
• Find out what the acidity of the soil is, is there ground water, what is the relief, the orientation of the terrain relative to the sun.
• Estimate how many beds you can create. Think in advance which processes you will carry out with your own hands, and in which you will need help.
• Plant plants in a specific order. Seedlings cannot be in the shade, and bushes and low plants should be closer to the sun.
• It is necessary to find out the terms of fruiting of all trees and shrubs. And place all the plants according to their maturity.
• Take a photo of your work.

What should be indicated on the diagram, which plants to use?

What should be indicated on the diagram

The planting scheme should be developed as correctly as possible and it can be easily done with your own hands, without the help of experts. In order for you to take everything into account and not forget anything, we decided to develop special recommendations for you.

1. To start planting, you should always have a photo of the site with you. Since you can not always be in close proximity to it, and your circuit will often require it.
2. Put on the diagram the location of the house, if the site is not yet built up, then the estimated size and location.
3. Designate not only the sizes personal plot, but also its distance from the site boundaries. If you decide to combine several types of plantings into one composition, then it is worth indicating what size each of them will be and at what distance they will be located.
4. Pay attention to painting everything with colors. This is important only for a decorative look. Thanks to this, you will be able to see from a new point of view.

What plants can be used in the garden?

For the garden, you can use any plants that you need:

• cabbage,
• carrot,
• potato,
• cucumbers,
• tomatoes,
• greenery,
• beet,
• eggplant,
• pumpkin.

What are the site planning models?

In order to outline only the main points of planting, we decided to show you three main options for planning a garden and including a garden. It is worth noting that the choice should be influenced not only by the “liked” factor, but also by the relief of the site, the number of acres, the estimated number of beds.

1. Decorative model. This model is designed exclusively for lovers of unpretentious site management and assumes the presence ornamental plants and plantations. Most often, such a model is embodied in the form of a circle. Inside there are plantings of flowers and only ornamental plants (preferably tall ones to show all the beauty). Outside, a kind of “frame” is created from fruit plantations (currants, raspberries, strawberries). Very often buy low shrubs that will not hide decorative flowers too much. If the site allows, then fruit trees are planted in the back in a semicircle (their number depends on the size of the model). For example, you can see a photo of landing on the Internet.
2. Rectangular model. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that here you make both a garden and a vegetable garden at the same time. Most often, a square shape is used for giving. The peculiarity is that you plant several beds of vegetables (as far as the acres of the plot allow). Nearby are several beds of berry bushes (currants, raspberries), selected according to your taste. For best view fruit trees are also planted, but a little further away. The peculiarity is that, with all the abundance of species, a square or rectangular shape is preserved.
3. Arbitrary model. Here, the shape and size depend solely on acres and on your capabilities. The scheme is the same: you combine several vegetable and berry beds with fruit and ornamental trees. As you can see in the photo, only your imagination plays a role here.

Planning is very important thing, so we would like to give some tips for those who will do everything by hand. To begin with, it is worth noting that it is necessary to take into account all the natural and geographical factors of the site: size, lighting, temperature changes. If you still have a small area for a garden, then use the method of vertical beds more, cucumbers, beans, peas feel great on grids and supports, tall tomatoes etc. Always pay attention to the compatibility of garden plants, their need for lighting. Also, that you should not use old trees for the site, seedlings are quite suitable for you. If some process has become incomprehensible to you, then we recommend that you look at the photo on the Internet, where you can also find instructions on the optimal number of beds and the correct calculation of acres. Planning on your own is very painstaking, but after you dive into the process, you will love it!

A garden and a kitchen garden are integral attributes of any suburban area. To break them, you do not need to be an experienced gardener - it is enough to have a minimum knowledge of the issue and, of course, good instructions.

Let's start with the fact that making a garden from scratch is much more difficult, because it will grow not for a year, but for several decades, so many points have to be taken into account. Something, perhaps, will be planted in the wrong place, and years later these mistakes will make themselves felt. For example, a common mistake novice gardeners make is an overly deep root neck of seedlings.

The process is quite laborious and consists of several important steps. Let's get acquainted with the features of each of them.

Stage one. Choose a plot

Much attention is paid to the choice of a suitable site - the relief, type of soil, depth of groundwater, degree of protection from wind and other important conditions are assessed. Thanks to agrochemical analyzes, it is possible to determine the level of soil acidity and the concentration of nutrients, which will later help with watering, top dressing, and liming. Determining the depth of groundwater will allow you to determine the measures to minimize their negative impact. In a word, the laying of a garden should be carried out only after preliminary preparation, and gardeners must be aware of some aspects of land valuation.

Note! A number of additional measures will help to make even land unsuitable for trees suitable (for example, drainage).

Relief

Gardens grow best on slopes with a steepness of no more than 8 degrees. The direction of the slope is also important - it should be south, which means warm and well lit. Do not plant a garden in a hollow, because water accumulates there and cold air stagnates.

But the relief of most suburban areas is flat, without depressions and slopes, so there is no need to choose.

The soil

Fruit trees, as you know, have a fairly powerful root system, which goes deep vertically and spreads widely on the sides. This means that the nutrient medium is required in large volumes. It is for this reason that horticultural crops develop better on powerful soil, which contains the required supply of elements, and is sufficiently (but not too) moistened. In this case, marshy, rocky, strongly podzolized and clayey terrain is completely unsuitable.

As for the subsoil, it should be moisture and breathable.

1. Apple trees require black soil, sandy loam or soddy soil. It is important that the earth is loose and wet, however, apple trees do not tolerate excess moisture.
2. Plums need moist and nutrient-rich loamy soil. They do not tolerate a lack of moisture and dry air.
3. Cherries are best planted on not too steep slopes with sandy soil.
4. Pears will grow best in light loamy soil.

ground water

Terrain with high level groundwater flow is dangerous for garden trees, because in such places the plants do not live long. The roots, reaching the water, die due to oxygen deficiency, then the ends of the branches in the crown dry, and later the knots. Plants grow very slowly and soon die.

If it is planned to plant apple trees, then groundwater should be no closer than 2 m. For stone fruits (cherries, cherries, apricots), which have deep roots, this figure is 1.5 m. groundwater may be even smaller.

About satellites of fruit trees

Some forest trees grow in the same conditions as fruit trees. It has been proven that if oak, linden or maple grows well on or near the site, then fruit crops will develop quite successfully. But alder and horsetail testify to the swampiness of the site, which means that it must first be cultivated. Thanks to all these signs, you can find out if the land is suitable for a garden.

Wind protection

Many gardeners know that the wind has a detrimental effect on the garden. AT winter time it blows snow off the ground, increasing the risk of freezing of the root system. Large snowdrifts along the perimeter destroy the crowns. As for the hot summer winds, they dry out the soil and prevent normal pollination by insects. Young plantings are swayed by the wind, which is why the roots of seedlings take root more slowly. Finally, with a strong gusty wind, not only leaves are torn off and branches are broken, but the trees themselves are falling down.

Harsh winds are especially dangerous in harvest years, when in just a day most of the fruits can fall to the ground. To avoid all this, a windbreak is required - a great way to preserve the crop and protect the plants from damage. For protective plantings, it is best to use fast-growing trees and shrubs, but they will not be effective until several years after planting. Therefore, wind protection should be taken care of at least two to three years before laying the garden. Also, the role of wind protection can be played by outbuildings, natural hills and a nearby forest.

More than others, tree species such as oak, poplar, birch, linden are suitable for wind protection. If shrubs are used, then it is better to give preference to yellow acacia, mountain ash, hazel and wild rose.

Note! There are clear distances at which protective trees and bushes should be placed. For trees, this is about 1-1.2 m (inside the row) and 1.5-2 m (between rows), for shrubs - 0.5-0.7 m and 0.7-1 m, respectively.

Stage two. Plot layout

The land should be used rationally, and there should be no room for weeds and various pests. In other words, the site should be densely planted. Fruit crops need light, and their roots need soil nutrition. Moreover, with proper placement, the garden itself will be more attractive.

Before you start learning, you need to plan everything. As a rule, gardeners use the same layouts, which may differ depending on the relief features, climate and the preferences of the gardeners themselves. One such diagram is shown below.

Of the eight to ten apple trees, five should be of the winter variety, two of the summer variety, and two more of the autumn variety. It also provides for the creation of gazebos and recreation areas, planting flower crops.

Note! Pears, apple trees should be planted 5-6x4 m apart, while plums and cherries - somewhere in 3x2.5 m. You can plant undersized representatives of the same varieties between rows of tall crops.

These undersized plants are less durable, their fruiting will end by the age of twenty. At the same time, the crowns will reach full development, they will become too crowded, and you can get rid of the trees.

Stage three. Choice of landing date

In the central regions, it is better to plant a garden in early spring, that is, before the buds swell (this is especially important for cherries). In the south, gardens are usually planted in autumn. More importantly, in the spring, planting should be carried out before the seedlings begin to grow, and in the fall - during leaf fall.

Also note that before digging seedlings, it is necessary to remove the leaves. The fact is that moisture entering the plant evaporates through the leaves, and if they are not removed, then the likelihood of successful survival will decrease. The leaves are removed carefully, while trying not to damage the kidneys.

Stage four. Soil preparation

To obtain a good harvest, a deep arable layer of soil is required. As a rule, root systems fruit crops go into the ground to a depth of 0.8 m, which means that the same amount needs to be processed and fertilized. To do this, it is better to use a small plantation plow.

Stage five. Selection of seedlings

They must be purchased from a nursery that is located in the same region as the future garden, otherwise there will be a risk that the plants will not take root. The roots should be branched, long (more than 30 cm), not frostbitten, on the cut - white. Quality seedlings have straight trunks, with smooth bark and no visible defects. Finally, the crown should consist of at least three or four well-developed branches, which are directed in different directions, and without fail with a conductor (i.e., a leading shoot).

As for the age at which trees should be planted, the opinions of gardeners differ. Some plant mature plants (eight or nine years old), which quickly bear fruit, but are quite expensive, and it is quite difficult to plant them. Others buy two- and three-year-olds, which are somewhat behind in terms of fruiting, but are cheaper.

Stage six. Seedling preparation

The procedure consists of two simple steps. Let's consider them.

Step 1. Roots

The largest roots are cut so that the cut area "looks" at the bottom of the pit. To do this, you need to use a garden knife (not a pruner, because it kneads the wood and does not give an even cut). If the seedlings were obtained in the fall, but will be planted in the spring, then after pruning they are immersed in a clay solution and buried in the ground for a while (this will prevent drying).

Step 2. Crown

The length of the roots of dug out seedlings does not exceed 35-40 cm, while most of them (the roots), and this is about 70%, remain in the ground. But the aerial part remains the same, which is why the truncated root system can no longer properly “feed” it. Therefore, the branches in the crown should be cut to about a third of the length.

Note! It is more convenient to cut the branches after planting - so a person can not only see their placement relative to each other, but also do the work with both hands.

Stage six. Digging planting holes

During the first two years after planting, the roots are within the planting hole, which means that they use moisture and nutrients from there. Therefore, at first, young plants should be provided best conditions for development.

The diameter and shape of the planting pits may vary, but for uniform and proper root development, it is desirable to make round pits tapering down.

Note! There is an opinion that clay soils the bottom of the pit must be covered with a sandy "cushion", and on sandy ones - with clay. This is allegedly necessary for water retention. In reality, everything is not so.

Pits for spring planting should be prepared in the fall, while for autumn - about a month in advance. Moreover, in the first case, before frosts, the pits should be covered with fertilized earth, but not tamped.

Stage seven. Landing

We’ll make a reservation right away that it’s not worth filling up the root necks - when the soil settles, they should be flush with its surface. In principle, planting is the most important stage, it is on it that the yield, survival rate and life expectancy of trees depend. It is quite difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to eliminate the mistakes made here in the future.

The most common mistake is considered to be a deep landing, which can be discovered only after a few years. Raising a deeply planted tree is difficult, and a novice gardener will definitely not be able to cope with this, moreover, he can even ruin the plant.

Note! If groundwater is too close to the surface, then plants cannot be planted in pits - soil mounds are created instead. For this, the landing sites are first dug up, then mounds of fertilized earth are poured on them (width - 100 cm, height - 45-50 cm). Seedlings are planted on such mounds and tied to wooden pegs.

A few words about the landing board

When the landing sites are marked, and the stakes are ready, you can proceed directly to the digging. In order to avoid violation of straightness, a stake must be driven in the center of each pit.

It is not easy to do this “by eye”, so you can resort to one simple device - the so-called landing board. For its manufacture, a board with approximate dimensions of 200x15x2 cm is used. A triangular cutout is made in the middle of one side of this board. Similar cuts are made along the edges, 75 cm from the center, as shown in the images.

Such a board will allow you to install pegs to which seedlings will be tied, exactly in the center of the pits. Next, the plants are tied to pegs as shown below.

After planting, trees need to be looked after, fertilized and watered, but here everything depends on the specific tree species.

Video - Features of caring for fruit trees

Creation of a garden on the site

Ideally, the garden should consist of beds located in a sunny place and protected from the wind by fruit trees planted from the north, as well as convenient wide paths. Making a garden from scratch is not as difficult as a garden, but you can still encounter certain difficulties. You should start with preliminary preparation.

Stage one. Location selection

A place for a garden must meet certain requirements, let's get acquainted with them.

1. The garden should be located in a sunny place. It is important that the plants are under the sun for at least six hours a day.
2. Also, the selected location should not be strong winds or, alternatively, the wind protection described above will be equipped.
3. The beds should be at least ten meters from trees and buildings.
4. Finally, the site chosen must be level and elevated.

Note! If the garden is sloping towards the south, then the harvest will be early, while on the northern slope the fruits will ripen later than usual. The western and eastern slopes are also suitable for a vegetable garden.

It is not worth breaking beds in a lowland, because water will accumulate there. If there is no other way out, then you should take care of the system of drainage grooves, and make the beds themselves no lower than 20 cm.

As for lighting, it is not easy to regulate it. The only way- get rid of objects shading the garden (with the exception of the north side). That is, trees do not need to be planted. But if they serve as protection from the wind, then it is necessary to at least thin out the crowns so that they do not cast a thick shadow.

Stage two. Planning

In most cases, it comes to the garden only after everything else is ready. There remains only a piece of land on which you need to break the beds.

You should start by making a plan. What should be included in it? First of all, you need to designate the number of beds, as well as determine their shape. It is advisable to make the beds square or rectangular shape, but if desired, the garden can be divided into sectors. You also need to raise them a little (by about 15-20 cm, although the height may be greater) so that when processing plants, you do not put too much pressure on your back. The width of the beds is usually about 80 cm.

In addition, the plan should allocate space for paths (for this, the distance between the beds should be at least 40 cm), as well as small areas for water containers and equipment. Such tanks, by the way, are needed when planting crops that love warm watering. Most of the expenses here are for the arrangement of paths.

Note! Do not use roofing material or slate when delimiting - these materials are released into the soil harmful substances, because of which the crop can be hazardous to health.

Still need space for compost heap where plant and organic waste will be stored. After two years, this waste will rot and serve as good fertilizer.

Stage three. Registration

If there is a lawn in place of future beds, then the selected area must be cultivated. There may be several options, but the most effective (and at the same time expensive) is to cut off the top layer of turf (no more than 3 cm) and then evenly spread the mixture consisting of sand, peat and manure. Then the site is dug up and beds are created. Another option is to dig up the ground so that upper layer went to about 15 cm deep, and in the first year to grow potatoes on it.

The procedure for designing beds is as follows.

Step 1. First, according to the plan drawn up, pegs are driven in around the perimeter of the garden, between which a rope is pulled.

Step 2 Then the soil is prepared by one of the methods described above.

Note! The location of crops must be changed annually, otherwise the crop will become worse over time, and the soil will become unsuitable for growing.

Step 3. The soil is loosened. It needs to be made soft and airy so that the plants sprout easily.

Step 4 The borders of the beds are marked. This can be done using the same pegs and rope, or you can plant perennials around the perimeter.

Step 5 At the end, paths are formed. They can be covered with gravel or laid out with tiles (in the second case, the earth is compacted and covered with a layer of sand, after which laying is carried out).

Stage four. planting

After creating beds and paths, you can start planting plants. To avoid any problems in the future, you need to follow the compatibility rules shown in the image below.

That's all. As it turned out, if you do everything right, then it is quite possible to equip a house, a garden and a vegetable garden with your own hands. Much more useful information can be found in the video below.

Video - Garden planning and gardening